Looking great! We use similar techniques to mimic the look and function of hydraulic pistons when there is not much space to mount real hydraulics into an RC model.
Yes, I have a few of those, they come as M3 and the M4 version is a bit more rare. Problem is that these small threads create a really slow gearing and that the motors have no axial/thrust bearing/bushing to take up the axial forces. But give them a go, they are pretty good quality.
I'm trying to leave n how to replicate hydrolics of a komatsu Excavator. Not after hard dig type pressure. But I'll keep watching your channel. Your a good teacher.
Thank you for your interest! :) inner section: outside 0.5" wall thickness 16 swg (1.6mm) outer section outside 15mm wall thickness 1.1mm (probably nominal 1mm) You might want to build something with other dimensions. You need to find a combination that holds the bearing inside, the other holds the thread insert and then you use the PTFE tape to make them run smoothly without too much play. The trick is to check both metric and imperial dimensions, for both aluminium, bearings and (if you can) the thread insert - that greatly increases your chances to find a combination that fits. Good luck!
You've already done all the work finding pieces that fit well together! I almost immediately found everything I needed on eBay, and I'm not going to change anything! Thanks so much for your help!
Absolutely! However, I did not get around to testing how heavy it can be, sorry! It is quite strong, though, but that will depend on the gearing you use.
No limit switches in this yet. You could attach them to the actuator or the parts that are moving, hopefully you can find a way to make it work for you. I'm thinking of adding a (linear/slier) potentiometer and use them as linear servos, no limit switches needed then.
good question, I will have to try it out. Please remind me if I forget :-/ The motor is one of the N20 motors, which you can find on ebay and many shops that sell components for robots.
Still on holiday with no access to the actuator, sorry. RPM depends on what speed you want to achieve. If you use an M6 rod, you get 1mm of linear movement per revolution. You can convert the gear motor's rpm into mm/second that way.
Gosh, I'm useless, at least now I have looked up the motor details: It is a Pololu 996, which is the high power 6V variant. It has a 210:1 reduction, 1.6A stall current and a no-load speed of 140rpm with 120mA no-load current.
hi, I am using circular pipe for making this linear actuator. But I am having problem that its not working. The pipe just rotates with threaded shaft. Is motor torque also the crucial factor for linear movement? Also if my shaft is considerably short in length then is there a need for bearing support? Ty
Circular pipe: You need to prevent both ends from rotating. If you can make sure of that by mounting them appropriately, then you can use round pipes/tubes. Square tubes makes this easier. Motor torque: Yes, motor torque, gear reduction and type of thread will all affect the force of the linear movement. Bearing support: The bearing is there mainly to protect the tiny bushings in the small gear motor from taking all the load. Hence, the length of the shaft is not really important. If you have a lot of force on the shaft, a bearing will help. If not, you can probably transmit those forces via the gear motor. Hope this helped :)
It is a Pololu 996, which is the high power 6V variant. It has a 210:1 reduction, 1.6A stall current and a no-load speed of 140rpm with 120mA no-load current. Most ebay versions of this motor will have less torque, but they will also be a lot cheaper.
Looking great! We use similar techniques to mimic the look and function of hydraulic pistons when there is not much space to mount real hydraulics into an RC model.
+cwx37 Thank you very much :) My models are not as realistic-looking at yours, but good function is important for me as well :)
Aw great yensr i like it works great look forward to seeing finished and on one of your models
+pumptech100 Thank you! I'll give my best :)
Good video, thanks. I might try this to operate the doors on my model lock chamber. Jim
+RVJimD That would be fantastic to see it being used by someone :) Your canal model is such a great unique project!
This is brillaint thank you im thinking of making some of them for my excavator toy hobby conversion
Thank you! That would be great, let us know how it goes!
Found a n20 with it already threaded.
I've bought two to learn on.
Look at this on eBay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282235634961
ebay.co.uk
Yes, I have a few of those, they come as M3 and the M4 version is a bit more rare.
Problem is that these small threads create a really slow gearing and that the motors have no axial/thrust bearing/bushing to take up the axial forces.
But give them a go, they are pretty good quality.
I'm trying to leave n how to replicate hydrolics of a komatsu
Excavator. Not after hard dig type pressure. But I'll keep watching your channel. Your a good teacher.
good
What are the internal and external dimensions of the aluminum tubing you are using? The wall thickness? Great project!
Thank you for your interest! :)
inner section:
outside 0.5"
wall thickness 16 swg (1.6mm)
outer section
outside 15mm
wall thickness 1.1mm (probably nominal 1mm)
You might want to build something with other dimensions. You need to find a combination that holds the bearing inside, the other holds the thread insert and then you use the PTFE tape to make them run smoothly without too much play. The trick is to check both metric and imperial dimensions, for both aluminium, bearings and (if you can) the thread insert - that greatly increases your chances to find a combination that fits.
Good luck!
You've already done all the work finding pieces that fit well together! I almost immediately found everything I needed on eBay, and I'm not going to change anything! Thanks so much for your help!
Thank you Randall, I hope your project works well :)
This sort of tech is what robotic arms are going to use in the future for arms tat require less than about 135 degrees of rotary movement.
Hi there! Great design, do you think it would be able to support a load in the vertical position?
Absolutely! However, I did not get around to testing how heavy it can be, sorry! It is quite strong, though, but that will depend on the gearing you use.
Nice 👍
Glad you liked it :)
What are you using as cut out switch?? I cant see how it stops without switching off the power..thanks.
No limit switches in this yet. You could attach them to the actuator or the parts that are moving, hopefully you can find a way to make it work for you.
I'm thinking of adding a (linear/slier) potentiometer and use them as linear servos, no limit switches needed then.
nice job
Very nice ! what type of motor are you using ? Any idea how much weight it could carry in vertical position? :D
good question, I will have to try it out. Please remind me if I forget :-/
The motor is one of the N20 motors, which you can find on ebay and many shops that sell components for robots.
YensR little reminder :D any idea yet ? and what about the rpm?
Still on holiday with no access to the actuator, sorry.
RPM depends on what speed you want to achieve. If you use an M6 rod, you get 1mm of linear movement per revolution. You can convert the gear motor's rpm into mm/second that way.
Gosh, I'm useless, at least now I have looked up the motor details: It is a Pololu 996, which is the high power 6V variant. It has a 210:1 reduction, 1.6A stall current and a no-load speed of 140rpm with 120mA no-load current.
hi, I am using circular pipe for making this linear actuator. But I am having problem that its not working. The pipe just rotates with threaded shaft. Is motor torque also the crucial factor for linear movement? Also if my shaft is considerably short in length then is there a need for bearing support? Ty
Circular pipe: You need to prevent both ends from rotating. If you can make sure of that by mounting them appropriately, then you can use round pipes/tubes. Square tubes makes this easier.
Motor torque: Yes, motor torque, gear reduction and type of thread will all affect the force of the linear movement.
Bearing support: The bearing is there mainly to protect the tiny bushings in the small gear motor from taking all the load. Hence, the length of the shaft is not really important. If you have a lot of force on the shaft, a bearing will help. If not, you can probably transmit those forces via the gear motor.
Hope this helped :)
thanks, it sure will help
Hello.How much RPM does this gearbox have?
It is a Pololu 996, which is the high power 6V variant. It has a 210:1 reduction, 1.6A stall current and a no-load speed of 140rpm with 120mA no-load current.
Most ebay versions of this motor will have less torque, but they will also be a lot cheaper.
YensR Thankyou
Thankyou!
So funny, but toooo slow.
You can use a faster gear motor, but you'll lose some force. You need to find the right trade-off for your application.
useless
too useless
Why?