All of your ideas are great, we live in a time where corporate greed is regulating prices so the companies will never adopt your ideas as it does not make them any more cash. I shop around and find deals on fluid that matches my car manual information.
Rock Auto sells the Bosch 5.1 for $10/qt but you have to pay shipping. I just ordered 4 qts to minimize the shipping cost. Much better deal than the Amazon price which is about $25 currently.
Yes, I noticed that too. I recently ordered a set of PowerStop Z36 Brake Pads & Rotors for my 1995 GMC Jimmy SLT 4X4 from Rock Auto. I was going to order the 32 oz Wagner 5.1 Brake Fluid, but I needed to keep my costs down and it would have been an extra shipping charge (2nd warehouse). So, I figured I would order it later after I assembled all my parts and was closer to doing the brake job. I already had the PowerStop rear shoes & drums. Anyway, checking prices and availability has been a nightmare. I live in Canada, (the 51st state ;-). I figure I need about 3 quarts to do a complete flush. Buying in Canada, if I can find it, results in about double the Rock Auto cost, even after shipping and exchange differences. I am now looking at buying the Bosch ESI6 fluid - didn't know until watching your video that it is a DOT 5.1 fluid - thanks for that! This vehicle is new to me last year, and I have only done a tune-up on it, (plugs, wires, Cap & rotor, and ignition coil), it had a fresh oil change just before I bought it and at the moment does not get a lot of mileage. Other than that, I don't know the history of fluid changes so I'm wanting to change the fluids in the transfer case, front & rear ends, power steering pump, etc. The auto transmission fluid looks good and clean, so I'm not too worried about that. I intend to do a fair bit of off-road travel, so I'm wanting to get everything fresh so I have a starting point for future maintenance work. I am thinking of replacing the master brake cylinder at the same time as doing the front & rear brakes. Any thoughts?
First video about brake fluids I have watched. Thanks for clearing up some of the lingo. I have been using DOT 4 fluids in my cars because of apparent superiority over and compatibility with DOT 3. I noticed RockAuto listed the new Bosch fluid, and now am happy to learn more about it from you. Now I will feel comfortable moving to using the latest generation of fluids.
All my current vehicles departed the factory equipped with DOT-3 fluid, as per the cap on the reservoir. It's been my understanding brake fluids shouldn't be mixed, the entire system must be cleaned and flushed, at a minimum.
I got 500ml of Stoptech 501.00001 Racing STR 600 brake fluid for $24. It lists as DOT4 and shows 312C Dry, 206C "typical", and 195C wet. After watching this I'm feeling pretty good about it!
My car, a Nissan 370Z sport coupe 6MT, has StopTech STR 600, a DOT 4 brake fluid in it. When I upgrade my pads and rotors I'm probably going to go with some Motul RBF 660 or 700 DOT 4 fluid
@@TheCapableDriver-f3b Thanks for the info on that. I live in the SF bay area, where we rarely see temperatures going below 32⁰F. I use Motul gear oil in my gearbox and diff and really like their products. I'm currently awaiting test results to come back on a used oil analysis I'm having done on Redline 5W-30 and if those results don't look good I'll go with the Motul 8100 series of engine oils. I had previously run Motul 300V 5W-40 which turned out great, except for an unusually high level of iron in the oil after analysis.
I have been operating on the apprehension that DOT3 is generally more resistant to water absorption, as if numerically higher grades start with higher BPs but the dropoff is steeper. Truth, myth, or hallucination?
I don't know. Perhaps someone familiar with the chemistry could chime in. I think the recommended replacement interval is longer with the higher grades because they absorb less water. Also, as shown in the video, what you have been buying in recent years as DOT 3 may actually be DOT 4 or higher.
I've heard that in old Land Rover circles that DOT3 helps old wheel cylinders last longer than newer spec fluids. I think the older fluids have better lubricity. That point is also relevant for clutch hydraulics especially when there is a shared reservoir. Change fluid regularly. It helps prevent moisture contamination which reduces lubricity and causes seals to fail. For DIY use, don't buy large bottles as the fluid of a half empty bottle can be wet from the air even before it is used.
Any thoughts on my go to life hack. I change my bikes brake fluid every year or two. I have a big quart bottle of fluid that I use for cars and motorcycles. When I’m done I put the bottle in a gallon sized ziplock bag. It’s air tight. Seriously how is it going to absorb moisture out of the air?
@@wirenut3020I suggest if you're storing brake fluid, to select a metal cannister whenever possible. Plastic packaging does breathe to some larger degree.
I wondered that, too. I think it's just marketing to make it sound fancier. The molecules in the formulation are synthesized in a factory, not taken from the ground and refined like conventional motor oils. There is no performance benefit as with motor oils, where synthetics flow better at very low temperatures.
I've known for quite a while that. 3. 4 basically the same brake fluid with a little bit more refinement on the Dot 4 so that it can handle a little more temperature should you drive the vehicle hard. I don't know anybody who drives the vehicle that hard, perhaps a police car might need it. The recent edition of 5.1 is also just a higher temperature standard of the same brake fluid. Whatever you do do not ever use Dot 5 which is nothing but liquid silicone and it will ruin your brake system
Correct, most people don't drive hard enough to really tax the brake fluid. DOT 3 is still fine for the majority of drivers until it absorbs too much water. Police vehicles would definitely want a higher grade brake fluid. The lower viscosity is what is needed for many modern vehicles though. I definitely needed higher temperature brake fluid when I was lapping on the track. The last time I was at a high speed track with my Scion FR-S (unfortunately I had to sell it) the brake rotors would glow orange in some braking zones. The wheels got so hot (I had one piece rotors) that the adhesive for the wheel weights melted and some of the weights fell off, though they stayed in the wheel rim loose.
Never in my wildest dreams did I think you were supposed to change brake fluid every couple years. I just changed the fluid in my 2010 car and it was much darker than new.
Boiling brake fluid creates gas not air that is just another state of the BF. Modern synthetic BF is not hydroscopic. I have changed several cars from the 50s and 60s to synthetic DOT 5 BF with no problems and very long life.
I use joe's brand on sale and turkey baster it every 3-6 months. I don't drive a lambo. cheap 3 or 4 is fine for me. like everything else, like oil, change it more frequently is better than buying redline, amsoil, and all those ridiculously priced fluids. I change oil at 3k. and you should too. everything is gourmet, premium, XL, supreme, etc.
Finally, someone who understands all the nuances. I got so tired of explaining it over and over on forums.
Really? I was beginning to think I was the only one. Thanks for the vote of confidence and Thanks for watching!
All of your ideas are great, we live in a time where corporate greed is regulating prices so the companies will never adopt your ideas as it does not make them any more cash. I shop around and find deals on fluid that matches my car manual information.
Yeah, this is one place where government regulations could actually save people money. Thanks for watching!
Rock Auto sells the Bosch 5.1 for $10/qt but you have to pay shipping. I just ordered 4 qts to minimize the shipping cost. Much better deal than the Amazon price which is about $25 currently.
I will check Rock Auto next time as I shop there frequently. Thanks for watching!
Yes, I noticed that too.
I recently ordered a set of PowerStop Z36 Brake Pads & Rotors for my 1995 GMC Jimmy SLT 4X4 from Rock Auto. I was going to order the 32 oz Wagner 5.1 Brake Fluid, but I needed to keep my costs down and it would have been an extra shipping charge (2nd warehouse). So, I figured I would order it later after I assembled all my parts and was closer to doing the brake job. I already had the PowerStop rear shoes & drums.
Anyway, checking prices and availability has been a nightmare. I live in Canada, (the 51st state ;-). I figure I need about 3 quarts to do a complete flush. Buying in Canada, if I can find it, results in about double the Rock Auto cost, even after shipping and exchange differences.
I am now looking at buying the Bosch ESI6 fluid - didn't know until watching your video that it is a DOT 5.1 fluid - thanks for that!
This vehicle is new to me last year, and I have only done a tune-up on it, (plugs, wires, Cap & rotor, and ignition coil), it had a fresh oil change just before I bought it and at the moment does not get a lot of mileage. Other than that, I don't know the history of fluid changes so I'm wanting to change the fluids in the transfer case, front & rear ends, power steering pump, etc. The auto transmission fluid looks good and clean, so I'm not too worried about that.
I intend to do a fair bit of off-road travel, so I'm wanting to get everything fresh so I have a starting point for future maintenance work. I am thinking of replacing the master brake cylinder at the same time as doing the front & rear brakes.
Any thoughts?
First video about brake fluids I have watched. Thanks for clearing up some of the lingo. I have been using DOT 4 fluids in my cars because of apparent superiority over and compatibility with DOT 3. I noticed RockAuto listed the new Bosch fluid, and now am happy to learn more about it from you. Now I will feel comfortable moving to using the latest generation of fluids.
I'm glad you found the video useful! Thanks for watching.
Very informative. Thank you
Thanks for the vote of confidence and Thanks for watching!
Pirate fluid... LOL! Excellent video thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
All my current vehicles departed the factory equipped with DOT-3 fluid, as per the cap on the reservoir.
It's been my understanding brake fluids shouldn't be mixed, the entire system must be cleaned and flushed, at a minimum.
Mixing with DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 is fine. Thanks for watching!
@@TheCapableDriver-f3b Which brake fluid is silicone based?
I got 500ml of Stoptech 501.00001 Racing STR 600 brake fluid for $24. It lists as DOT4 and shows 312C Dry, 206C "typical", and 195C wet. After watching this I'm feeling pretty good about it!
I have always wondered if this is just a private label version of the Motul RBF 600. I have also used this Stoptech brake fluid with good results.
My car, a Nissan 370Z sport coupe 6MT, has StopTech STR 600, a DOT 4 brake fluid in it. When I upgrade my pads and rotors I'm probably going to go with some Motul RBF 660 or 700 DOT 4 fluid
I know from experience that this will work well, unless you see temperatures well below 0 deg F as those fluids get too thick. Thanks for watching!
@@TheCapableDriver-f3b Thanks for the info on that. I live in the SF bay area, where we rarely see temperatures going below 32⁰F. I use Motul gear oil in my gearbox and diff and really like their products. I'm currently awaiting test results to come back on a used oil analysis I'm having done on Redline 5W-30 and if those results don't look good I'll go with the Motul 8100 series of engine oils. I had previously run Motul 300V 5W-40 which turned out great, except for an unusually high level of iron in the oil after analysis.
I have been operating on the apprehension that DOT3 is generally more resistant to water absorption, as if numerically higher grades start with higher BPs but the dropoff is steeper. Truth, myth, or hallucination?
I don't know. Perhaps someone familiar with the chemistry could chime in. I think the recommended replacement interval is longer with the higher grades because they absorb less water. Also, as shown in the video, what you have been buying in recent years as DOT 3 may actually be DOT 4 or higher.
I've heard that in old Land Rover circles that DOT3 helps old wheel cylinders last longer than newer spec fluids. I think the older fluids have better lubricity. That point is also relevant for clutch hydraulics especially when there is a shared reservoir.
Change fluid regularly. It helps prevent moisture contamination which reduces lubricity and causes seals to fail. For DIY use, don't buy large bottles as the fluid of a half empty bottle can be wet from the air even before it is used.
Any thoughts on my go to life hack. I change my bikes brake fluid every year or two. I have a big quart bottle of fluid that I use for cars and motorcycles. When I’m done I put the bottle in a gallon sized ziplock bag. It’s air tight. Seriously how is it going to absorb moisture out of the air?
@@wirenut3020did you fill the bottle and bag with inert gas? No? Then there’s air and humidity in there.
@@wirenut3020I suggest if you're storing brake fluid, to select a metal cannister whenever possible. Plastic packaging does breathe to some larger degree.
Why some brake fluid manufacturers claim being 100% synthetic like the SynLube Stop-4-Life ?
Because there is no such thing as "natural" brakes fluid. It is completely man made.
I wondered that, too. I think it's just marketing to make it sound fancier. The molecules in the formulation are synthesized in a factory, not taken from the ground and refined like conventional motor oils. There is no performance benefit as with motor oils, where synthetics flow better at very low temperatures.
I think that ALL modern brake fluids are synthetic. Thanks for watching!
Pentosin FTW! 😉
Should work well, I used their website for some of my research. Thanks for watching!
I've known for quite a while that. 3. 4 basically the same brake fluid with a little bit more refinement on the Dot 4 so that it can handle a little more temperature should you drive the vehicle hard. I don't know anybody who drives the vehicle that hard, perhaps a police car might need it. The recent edition of 5.1 is also just a higher temperature standard of the same brake fluid. Whatever you do do not ever use Dot 5 which is nothing but liquid silicone and it will ruin your brake system
Correct, most people don't drive hard enough to really tax the brake fluid. DOT 3 is still fine for the majority of drivers until it absorbs too much water. Police vehicles would definitely want a higher grade brake fluid. The lower viscosity is what is needed for many modern vehicles though. I definitely needed higher temperature brake fluid when I was lapping on the track. The last time I was at a high speed track with my Scion FR-S (unfortunately I had to sell it) the brake rotors would glow orange in some braking zones. The wheels got so hot (I had one piece rotors) that the adhesive for the wheel weights melted and some of the weights fell off, though they stayed in the wheel rim loose.
Dot 5 not recommended in A ABS system
I have seen a "Vette" boil it's brake fluid. A Chevette at that with an idiot behind the wheel.
Never in my wildest dreams did I think you were supposed to change brake fluid every couple years. I just changed the fluid in my 2010 car and it was much darker than new.
I'm glad you did!! Thanks for watching.
just changed it! mercedes-benz dot 4. in a 2006 ford F150 KR
That should work well. I am guessing that you did it yourself.
All my vehicles have AMSOIL brake fluid in them along with every other AMSOIL lubricant. AMSOIL dealer since 1975..
The really make some great fluids. Thanks for watching!
Paraflu DOT4
I have never heard of this, but probably good? Which country is this from? Thanks for watching!
@@TheCapableDriver-f3b FİAT cars use this liquid. I am from Türkiye.
you did not mention Castrol SRF react which is the BEST brake fluid of all ! has the highest wet boiling point of all ! Big miss!
I was trying to stick to affordable and locally available brake fluids, but yes, Castrol SRF is in a class by itself. Thanks for watching!
Boiling brake fluid creates gas not air that is just another state of the BF. Modern synthetic BF is not hydroscopic. I have changed several cars from the 50s and 60s to synthetic DOT 5 BF with no problems and very long life.
True, but I wanted to make this easily understandable for as many as possible. DOT 5 can work very well for those classic cars. Thanks for watching!
I use joe's brand on sale and turkey baster it every 3-6 months. I don't drive a lambo. cheap 3 or 4 is fine for me. like everything else, like oil, change it more frequently is better than buying redline, amsoil, and all those ridiculously priced fluids. I change oil at 3k. and you should too. everything is gourmet, premium, XL, supreme, etc.
You forgot EXTREME, like the Prestone brake fluid. Nice comment, and Thanks for watching!