I got 500ml of Stoptech 501.00001 Racing STR 600 brake fluid for $24. It lists as DOT4 and shows 312C Dry, 206C "typical", and 195C wet. After watching this I'm feeling pretty good about it!
I've known for quite a while that. 3. 4 basically the same brake fluid with a little bit more refinement on the Dot 4 so that it can handle a little more temperature should you drive the vehicle hard. I don't know anybody who drives the vehicle that hard, perhaps a police car might need it. The recent edition of 5.1 is also just a higher temperature standard of the same brake fluid. Whatever you do do not ever use Dot 5 which is nothing but liquid silicone and it will ruin your brake system
Correct, most people don't drive hard enough to really tax the brake fluid. DOT 3 is still fine for the majority of drivers until it absorbs too much water. Police vehicles would definitely want a higher grade brake fluid. The lower viscosity is what is needed for many modern vehicles though. I definitely needed higher temperature brake fluid when I was lapping on the track. The last time I was at a high speed track with my Scion FR-S (unfortunately I had to sell it) the brake rotors would glow orange in some braking zones. The wheels got so hot (I had one piece rotors) that the adhesive for the wheel weights melted and some of the weights fell off, though they stayed in the wheel rim loose.
I have been operating on the apprehension that DOT3 is generally more resistant to water absorption, as if numerically higher grades start with higher BPs but the dropoff is steeper. Truth, myth, or hallucination?
I don't know. Perhaps someone familiar with the chemistry could chime in. I think the recommended replacement interval is longer with the higher grades because they absorb less water. Also, as shown in the video, what you have been buying in recent years as DOT 3 may actually be DOT 4 or higher.
I've heard that in old Land Rover circles that DOT3 helps old wheel cylinders last longer than newer spec fluids. I think the older fluids have better lubricity. That point is also relevant for clutch hydraulics especially when there is a shared reservoir. Change fluid regularly. It helps prevent moisture contamination which reduces lubricity and causes seals to fail. For DIY use, don't buy large bottles as the fluid of a half empty bottle can be wet from the air even before it is used.
Pirate fluid... LOL! Excellent video thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
I got 500ml of Stoptech 501.00001 Racing STR 600 brake fluid for $24. It lists as DOT4 and shows 312C Dry, 206C "typical", and 195C wet. After watching this I'm feeling pretty good about it!
I have always wondered if this is just a private label version of the Motul RBF 600. I have also used this Stoptech brake fluid with good results.
I've known for quite a while that. 3. 4 basically the same brake fluid with a little bit more refinement on the Dot 4 so that it can handle a little more temperature should you drive the vehicle hard. I don't know anybody who drives the vehicle that hard, perhaps a police car might need it. The recent edition of 5.1 is also just a higher temperature standard of the same brake fluid. Whatever you do do not ever use Dot 5 which is nothing but liquid silicone and it will ruin your brake system
Correct, most people don't drive hard enough to really tax the brake fluid. DOT 3 is still fine for the majority of drivers until it absorbs too much water. Police vehicles would definitely want a higher grade brake fluid. The lower viscosity is what is needed for many modern vehicles though. I definitely needed higher temperature brake fluid when I was lapping on the track. The last time I was at a high speed track with my Scion FR-S (unfortunately I had to sell it) the brake rotors would glow orange in some braking zones. The wheels got so hot (I had one piece rotors) that the adhesive for the wheel weights melted and some of the weights fell off, though they stayed in the wheel rim loose.
I have been operating on the apprehension that DOT3 is generally more resistant to water absorption, as if numerically higher grades start with higher BPs but the dropoff is steeper. Truth, myth, or hallucination?
I don't know. Perhaps someone familiar with the chemistry could chime in. I think the recommended replacement interval is longer with the higher grades because they absorb less water. Also, as shown in the video, what you have been buying in recent years as DOT 3 may actually be DOT 4 or higher.
I've heard that in old Land Rover circles that DOT3 helps old wheel cylinders last longer than newer spec fluids. I think the older fluids have better lubricity. That point is also relevant for clutch hydraulics especially when there is a shared reservoir.
Change fluid regularly. It helps prevent moisture contamination which reduces lubricity and causes seals to fail. For DIY use, don't buy large bottles as the fluid of a half empty bottle can be wet from the air even before it is used.