Nice work Andrew. For airfoil templates you may try to find a scrap of Formica countertop laminate (or similar), I've used this material for a long time because its easy to shape accurately and the edges polish very smoothly for no snags while cutting. Also, flying wings traditionally use a reflexed airfoil, one where the mean camber line is swept upward near the trailing edge. This is to counter the pitching moment - the natural tendency of a wing to tumble LE down. You'll notice that on many conventional aircraft, the horizontal stabilizer airfoil is actually 'upside down' in order to provide negative lift, so to counter the pitching moment of the wing without adding the drag of deflecting the elevator surfaces. If your tailless model has a lot of connection between airspeed and upward pitch trim, this is probably your answer. Just some points to consider. Cheers, -7
Good question. Depron is stronger and comes in 6mm and 3mm boards. Better for making fuselage boxes and tail surfaces and control surfaces due to the strength. XPS (Knauf) comes in 30mm and 50mm blocks and is softer. Better for wings because I can use the hotwire cutter to shape accurate airfoils and it works out cheaper than depron per wing.
For my flying wings I use the tecnique from "My Geek Show". Put your hot wire on a fixed spot and just move the root cord side. Maybe you already cheked that channel. And about hot wire cutting yes, its better than depron or foamboard building, speaking of flight time and gliding.
Small tip for cutting. It helped me to achieve more precise results. Divide both sides length by 4 or bigger number and mark it. Then you know that when you are on mark 2 on longer side you should be as well on mark 2 on shorter side.
Thanks for the video - hope you are now using the pivot cut method- as gustav gans mentioned- I find it really easy - trying to do wings freehand will introduce deformations to the surface, so does sanding, when I do it anyway :) pivot cuts give me instantly smooth, usable wings. Thanks again for all your movies - cheers
I have used this insulation before,,my opinion is that it's to brittle, polystyrene is better, lighter and more flexible, my plane broke its wing on landing used two layer's of fibre glass cloth. Now I've ordered polystyrene white foam box material 👌
Do the wings hold up okay in a small crash? I was going to buy some EPP but it's not as cheap as this stuff and Bunnings is much more convenient then the only 1 or 2 companies in Australia that sell EPP in small quantities.
For tapered wings you can put a ring on the wire and hook onto a nail so that the taper alligns with the natural angle. the tension in the wire is manually controlled and you only need a root template. However washout cannot be cut into the wing.
I use only one airfoil template on the bigger side and attach one end of the wire at a fixed point and drag the other end along the template. That way you dont have to worry about finishing one side first but it is harder to set up
andrew are the templates for the centre and outer part of the wing identical? because they are different lengths, i am trying to set the airfoil but im struggling if you could help me that would be great thanks.
Window flashing , OK that was what I wanted to know . I have been using Styrofoam that came from a job leftover . It's not as strong as the foam your using but I can only find 3/4" here in East Texas it don't get real cold like for using 2" for insulation and we have both the pink and blue but not the tan .
Nice video, I just think there is a minor problem to the process, when you cut the tapered wing coupled with a sweep or even just a tapered wing by going at different speed at the wing tip and the root (to finish the cut at the same time on both sides) the slicing/cutting direction does not remain parallel to the flight direction (parallel to the fuselage) as it is tilted to a sweep angle of the wing and therefore if you cut your wing at any section (parallel to the fuselage) you'll obtain a profile different to the one of your airfoil template. This is a problem because in steady straight flight the airflow will be parallel (perpendicular to the trailing edge in your case) to the flight direction and you want the airflow to attach and flow along the airfoil you have chosen but through this process you will get the airfoil profile tilted with the fuselage at an angle equal to the wing sweep and not parallel to the flight direction. Although I estimate that it won't be a huge issue at such a small scale as you are going to get some sort of profile which won't deviate much with the template profile. I would suggest you keep the wire parallel to the sweep line start cutting the wing by keeping the angle/sweep constant, move from the leading edge to the trailing edge keeping the wire translation parallel to the fuselage, at some point the wire will loose contact with the wing tip template (if there is a taper) and dangle around while your root template will still be left for cutting, for this you can put a temporary stick or small wooden strip on the foam at the trailing edge for the wire to rest/move on along the trailing edge while you finish cutting the root template. If there is no wing taper then moving (translating) the wire parallel to the fuselage and keeping the wire angle=sweep angle throughout the cut you will get the correct template profile without the need for a strip.
Thanks for your suggestion Rahul but I think your way would cut a big depression out of the middle of the wing. I'll have to try it and see what the result is, because it's hard to work it through in my head.
Appreciate the response, I think a depression would be created if the strip is not placed properly or if the wire angle is not held constant. I'll test it myself and inform you of the result I get.
I wanted to be clear but obviously its pretty muddled, so sorry about that. No I'm not saying to keep the wire to any angle, it really depends on the taper and sweep, what I intended to convey was that the cut has to be parallel to the flight direction so that the template profile is maintained throughout. You have to move the wire along the fuselage horizontal axis (the one it rolls about) any deviation to this will get you a different profile. Its a little difficult to visualize, I'll probably make a video about it.
Hi Andrew . Have you seen the yt videos of Hotwire tapered wing cutting where the end of the wire is secured to your bench or work area and the other end is held taut and moved against your template as your moving the wire ? David windestaal and andepet55 demonstrate this in their videos and was thinking of this whilst watching your clip ...just tell me to shut up if I'm being overbearing ...but seriously always looking forward to your videos and have learnt many things from your clips ...cheers from nsw
Yes I have seen them and tried that method. I found it too tricky to setup and it only works if you want the outer airfoil to be a scaled down version of the inner airfoil. That wouldn't suit the Mini Arrow. Thanks anyway and keep commenting.
www.modelaviation.com/grumman-albatross About to start construction on this beauty and I really want whatever those weights are, lol. I guess my 5lb weight lifting plates will work fine...
I use some cloth bags the size of a pencil case my sister sewed up for me, filled with aquarium gravel. Easy to get from Bunnies etc or aquarium stores. I made them for traditional balsa model wings but they've been so handy any time I need to stabilise something as they are easy to mould to whatever shape you want.
Hehe, somehow I'm an idiot because I'm unable to produce my wings like that ... did you already try the method where you use a pivot point and then cut the wing with only one template? Seemed a bit easier to me!
+Andrew Newton Yes, thats a problem that I fixed by soldering/connecting a piece of scrap wire to the end of the hotwire! If you're using this method you'll need a very beefy power supply - I didnt have one so the result looked not as nice as it could!
Thanks :) I think I saw that one. I have an extra AXN cloud jet motor I think I would like to make a wing for it. Please can you make a video about how to position the motors in the right angle as pusher or puller. Thrust angles and counter torque angles, and horizontal lines of an aircraft :O I still have some confusion on those topics.
Thanks for the video. Great as always. I had just broken the foam board FPV wing so I was read for a rebuild. Your video motivated me to hot wire it. I cut spars out of oak 1/8 x 1/8" and also added a 1mmx 4mm carbon flat spar. I covered it partially with colored packing tape. I already know how to hot wire but you are a pro at it. I just use a 12v battery and vary the heat by adjusting the distance the power wires attach to the cut wire. Here is my maiden flight video from first person view. ua-cam.com/video/QB68-cNfAsA/v-deo.html
Do the wings hold up okay in a small crash? I was going to buy some EPP but it's not as cheap as this stuff and Bunnings is much more convenient then the only 1 or 2 companies in Australia that sell EPP in small quantities.
Can confirm, packing tape +gorilla tape on the leading edge and my wing has run full speed into telephone wires without somuch as a tiny dent, really impressive actually
Went new people don't show this stuff in a clear and concise way like this is beyond me. Great video mate!
It's not easy to keep is simple
Nice work Andrew. For airfoil templates you may try to find a scrap of Formica countertop laminate (or similar), I've used this material for a long time because its easy to shape accurately and the edges polish very smoothly for no snags while cutting.
Also, flying wings traditionally use a reflexed airfoil, one where the mean camber line is swept upward near the trailing edge. This is to counter the pitching moment - the natural tendency of a wing to tumble LE down.
You'll notice that on many conventional aircraft, the horizontal stabilizer airfoil is actually 'upside down' in order to provide negative lift, so to counter the pitching moment of the wing without adding the drag of deflecting the elevator surfaces.
If your tailless model has a lot of connection between airspeed and upward pitch trim, this is probably your answer.
Just some points to consider.
Cheers,
-7
Thanks man.The thin aluminium cut with scissors works well for me, but I would like the extra stiffness of formica.
That's pretty incredible, Andrew! You've got a really nice foam cutting setup there.
Yes it's working well.
Here in NZ the foamboard is available at Bunnings, it might be available in Australia now though, but I just thought I'd let you know
Excellent thanks for the update
still is :)
Great video Sir. You make it look so easy.
It is, give it a go.
Yeah, still having a time trying to find foam. Our Jerrys and HomeDepot in my area don't carry foam like that (style, not brand).
***** Our Jerry's (like Home Depot or Lowes) discontinued selling it and my local Home Depot doesn't carry it either, Sux man, really does.
another great video, always useful even after years after the upload! many thanks for sharing this!! :)
Glad you enjoyed it!
For you what is the Between use of KNAUF or DEPRON to make a wing, advantage and inconvienient, I congratulate you for the quality of your videos !
Good question. Depron is stronger and comes in 6mm and 3mm boards. Better for making fuselage boxes and tail surfaces and control surfaces due to the strength. XPS (Knauf) comes in 30mm and 50mm blocks and is softer. Better for wings because I can use the hotwire cutter to shape accurate airfoils and it works out cheaper than depron per wing.
thank you for the clarification
For my flying wings I use the tecnique from "My Geek Show". Put your hot wire on a fixed spot and just move the root cord side. Maybe you already cheked that channel. And about hot wire cutting yes, its better than depron or foamboard building, speaking of flight time and gliding.
Lovely. I was going to ask you about the tapered wing cutting. Thank you
It's more tricky, need to practice moving each ens at different speeds
Andrew Newton I will definitely try it. Thanks
Small tip for cutting. It helped me to achieve more precise results. Divide both sides length by 4 or bigger number and mark it. Then you know that when you are on mark 2 on longer side you should be as well on mark 2 on shorter side.
Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the video - hope you are now using the pivot cut method- as gustav gans mentioned- I find it really easy - trying to do wings freehand will introduce deformations to the surface, so does sanding, when I do it anyway :) pivot cuts give me instantly smooth, usable wings. Thanks again for all your movies - cheers
I have tried it but prefer templates both ends. Most of my wings are straight.
I have used this insulation before,,my opinion is that it's to brittle, polystyrene is better, lighter and more flexible, my plane broke its wing on landing used two layer's of fibre glass cloth. Now I've ordered polystyrene white foam box material 👌
Thanks Andrew great info. I have my foam from Bunnings, I'll try to make 1 soon
Excellent, so glad you could find the foam.
Do the wings hold up okay in a small crash?
I was going to buy some EPP but it's not as cheap as this stuff and Bunnings is much more convenient then the only 1 or 2 companies in Australia that sell EPP in small quantities.
Thanks for the video. I had to go and get a sheet of foam to try :)
Good luck, start with a straight wing first. It is very rewarding I find.
Hi, nice tutorial.
How did you join the wings?
I'm planning to mount some fpv stuff on a flying wing and i also already have a hot wire cutter...
Just glued and taped the two halves together but you can span the join with a CF strip or bamboo skewer for a bit more strength.
Andrew you may find that pop rivets sharpened at the end are better for holding the templaetes on the blocks
Thanks Andrew. I'll try that.
Thanks for the vids Andrew. They are the best on Utube as far as I am concerned. Full of information and no bs.
For tapered wings you can put a ring on the wire and hook onto a nail so that the taper alligns with the natural angle. the tension in the wire is manually controlled and you only need a root template. However washout cannot be cut into the wing.
I use only one airfoil template on the bigger side and attach one end of the wire at a fixed point and drag the other end along the template. That way you dont have to worry about finishing one side first but it is harder to set up
andrew are the templates for the centre and outer part of the wing identical? because they are different lengths, i am trying to set the airfoil but im struggling if you could help me that would be great thanks.
No they are different airfoils. here are the templates for download newtonairlines.blogspot.com.au/search/label/-%20Mini%20Arrow
thanks andrew
what percentage of scale do i print out the centre of the wing and outer part of the wing? 100% for centre and 55% for outer maybe?
Just print that template page at 100% or A4 paper size and that gives you the inner and outer airfoils at correct size.
Can you make a video on making mini arrow with electronics added and maiden flight?
I have, search my videos
Great video how much would you charge to cut just the wing and post to 2454 NSW
Sorry, not interested in selling.
Window flashing , OK that was what I wanted to know . I have been using Styrofoam that came from a job leftover . It's not as strong as the foam your using but I can only find 3/4" here in East Texas it don't get real cold like for using 2" for insulation and we have both the pink and blue but not the tan .
Great video!
Nice video, I just think there is a minor problem to the process, when you cut the tapered wing coupled with a sweep or even just a tapered wing by going at different speed at the wing tip and the root (to finish the cut at the same time on both sides) the slicing/cutting direction does not remain parallel to the flight direction (parallel to the fuselage) as it is tilted to a sweep angle of the wing and therefore if you cut your wing at any section (parallel to the fuselage) you'll obtain a profile different to the one of your airfoil template. This is a problem because in steady straight flight the airflow will be parallel (perpendicular to the trailing edge in your case) to the flight direction and you want the airflow to attach and flow along the airfoil you have chosen but through this process you will get the airfoil profile tilted with the fuselage at an angle equal to the wing sweep and not parallel to the flight direction. Although I estimate that it won't be a huge issue at such a small scale as you are going to get some sort of profile which won't deviate much with the template profile. I would suggest you keep the wire parallel to the sweep line start cutting the wing by keeping the angle/sweep constant, move from the leading edge to the trailing edge keeping the wire translation parallel to the fuselage, at some point the wire will loose contact with the wing tip template (if there is a taper) and dangle around while your root template will still be left for cutting, for this you can put a temporary stick or small wooden strip on the foam at the trailing edge for the wire to rest/move on along the trailing edge while you finish cutting the root template. If there is no wing taper then moving (translating) the wire parallel to the fuselage and keeping the wire angle=sweep angle throughout the cut you will get the correct template profile without the need for a strip.
Thanks for your suggestion Rahul but I think your way would cut a big depression out of the middle of the wing. I'll have to try it and see what the result is, because it's hard to work it through in my head.
Appreciate the response, I think a depression would be created if the strip is not placed properly or if the wire angle is not held constant. I'll test it myself and inform you of the result I get.
So what you're saying, in way too many words and too little punctuation, is to simply keep the wire parallel to the leading edge the whole time?
I wanted to be clear but obviously its pretty muddled, so sorry about that. No I'm not saying to keep the wire to any angle, it really depends on the taper and sweep, what I intended to convey was that the cut has to be parallel to the flight direction so that the template profile is maintained throughout. You have to move the wire along the fuselage horizontal axis (the one it rolls about) any deviation to this will get you a different profile. Its a little difficult to visualize, I'll probably make a video about it.
Did you use 2212 motor with it?
Smaller motor than 2212 ua-cam.com/video/n-qdGCiQ0Pk/v-deo.html
Hi Andrew . Have you seen the yt videos of Hotwire tapered wing cutting where the end of the wire is secured to your bench or work area and the other end is held taut and moved against your template as your moving the wire ? David windestaal and andepet55 demonstrate this in their videos and was thinking of this whilst watching your clip ...just tell me to shut up if I'm being overbearing ...but seriously always looking forward to your videos and have learnt many things from your clips ...cheers from nsw
Yes I have seen them and tried that method. I found it too tricky to setup and it only works if you want the outer airfoil to be a scaled down version of the inner airfoil. That wouldn't suit the Mini Arrow. Thanks anyway and keep commenting.
Draw a series of lines on the foam to line up on as you cut.
I'm too lazy
awesome for education .. Thank You Andrew !!!!!!!!
Will you try this yourself?
I assume the power supply is the Dazheng 30V 5A power supply? you describe it as a 30A power supply.
You're right, thanks for picking that up.
nice video i like to make mini arrow pls can have detail on template power pack and cg detail pls
newtonairlines.blogspot.com/2016/03/ft-mini-arrow-hotwire-version.html
By any chance do you sell these?
No, not worth the effort and they're not good enough to sell.
may I have access to a copy of the airfoil jig
Yes, here it is - newtonairlines.blogspot.com.au/2016/03/ft-mini-arrow-hotwire-version.html
What are the weights that I keep seeing people use while they cut foam?
Anything heavy enough to stop the foam moving while you're pulling the wire through.
www.modelaviation.com/grumman-albatross
About to start construction on this beauty and I really want whatever those weights are, lol. I guess my 5lb weight lifting plates will work fine...
Oh wow! What a project! Yes lifting weights are perfect, you can use anything, bottles of water, food cans, bricks.
I use some cloth bags the size of a pencil case my sister sewed up for me, filled with aquarium gravel. Easy to get from Bunnies etc or aquarium stores. I made them for traditional balsa model wings but they've been so handy any time I need to stabilise something as they are easy to mould to whatever shape you want.
Hi Andrew, Do you sell these all ready cut out? Thanks
No sorry, not interested in selling.
is this the flite test arrow? Do yo have template plans?
Yes and yes
What airfoil are you using on this arrow build?
It's a stretched Clark Z, templates here newtonairlines.blogspot.com.au/search/label/-%20Mini%20Arrow
Which size do you find most useful - 30 or 50mm?
I use 30mm most
Hehe, somehow I'm an idiot because I'm unable to produce my wings like that ... did you already try the method where you use a pivot point and then cut the wing with only one template? Seemed a bit easier to me!
I have tried pivot cuts but that would make the outer airfoil too thin.
+Andrew Newton Yes, thats a problem that I fixed by soldering/connecting a piece of scrap wire to the end of the hotwire! If you're using this method you'll need a very beefy power supply - I didnt have one so the result looked not as nice as it could!
+PojntFX (PFX) Oh I forgot to mention that by this I've been able to make the outer airfoil a lot bigger (Its possible to calculate its size!).
What airfoil did you use
Templates in this link newtonairlines.blogspot.com.au/2016/03/ft-mini-arrow-hotwire-version.html
Been a while since you did any hot wire cutting. Just sayin :)
ua-cam.com/video/MjA78LRbCvw/v-deo.html The Defense rests Your Honour
i want it can i have it?
Do you have plan ?
Linked in the description
Just curious where you're located in Aus, if you're local to me i may pick up some wings :D
Geelong. But the idea is to make them yourself.
@@AndrewNewton a little far away haha.
I picked up some of that foam board and the flashing. Need to make a hot wire jig/bow now.
What gauge wire are you using?
90lb stainless steel fishing wire
Would 22 gauge nichrome work too?
Yes it should, but I have not used it.
😊😊
Awesome
awsome, like, my cutter foam is more small, 50cms,
That would be easier to handle than my 85cm bow.
+Andrew Newton yes newton i,m start cutting foam of TV boxes, by made my first planes of foam, ,,,,,,hi ,,,,Thanks for answer.
You left me hungry for the rest of it :(
Sorta more here - ua-cam.com/video/n-qdGCiQ0Pk/v-deo.html
Thanks :) I think I saw that one. I have an extra AXN cloud jet motor I think I would like to make a wing for it. Please can you make a video about how to position the motors in the right angle as pusher or puller. Thrust angles and counter torque angles, and horizontal lines of an aircraft :O I still have some confusion on those topics.
I could if I knew anything about all those angles. I tend to build, fly, bend the motor mount a little bit, fly again.
LOL, ok
I had to use a pivot point I just don't have study hands But it's okay cause now I only have to use 1 template
Thanks for the video. Great as always. I had just broken the foam board FPV wing so I was read for a rebuild. Your video motivated me to hot wire it. I cut spars out of oak 1/8 x 1/8" and also added a 1mmx 4mm carbon flat spar. I covered it partially with colored packing tape. I already know how to hot wire but you are a pro at it. I just use a 12v battery and vary the heat by adjusting the distance the power wires attach to the cut wire. Here is my maiden flight video from first person view. ua-cam.com/video/QB68-cNfAsA/v-deo.html
Excellent Jim, great to see your success.
Do the wings hold up okay in a small crash?
I was going to buy some EPP but it's not as cheap as this stuff and Bunnings is much more convenient then the only 1 or 2 companies in Australia that sell EPP in small quantities.
Yes this is a tough little wing in tape covered XPS
Can confirm, packing tape +gorilla tape on the leading edge and my wing has run full speed into telephone wires without somuch as a tiny dent, really impressive actually
what wire did you use for cutter?
90lb stainless steel fishing wire