+RevoltTrain I did the same in my truck, lol. Love the roar/hiss it makes. Then again my intake was directly on top of the motor sucking in direct heat. At least running a pipe with a cone to my wheel well helped. I'm only at 412 HP atm so I guess it's a gain a bit.
+RevoltTrain Same with my celica, but also becasue the aftermarket filter and pipe looks better and is alot easier to get to the filter. Toyota really squeezed the OEM box in there. Truth be told, I could have probably pulled the air filter off a 5hp briggs and stratton and I doubt the whooping 140HP 1zz would care.
+skirmich Nearly every car mass produced has parts on it that can be done multiple times better by an aftermarket company. That millions of dollars in R&D isn't spent on making the car perfect. It's spent on making sure the car works well enough at the lowest production cost. There are intake systems out there that are in fact restrictive and a simple intake system upgrade does wonders. It's all about finding where the engineers goofed in order to maximize your HP/dollar ratio. One example: 5.0L EFI Mustangs had a horrible rubber, ribbed intake tube that did no favors for the air flow and absorbed every BTU of heat under the hood. A simple K&N intake system upgrade and it actually made significant power gains. Now, will a simple filter change free up any power on a stock vehicle? Probably not unless the engineers goofed on something that simply which they do from time to time.
I talked to a retired engineer that had worked for K&N, he admitted that you won't see an increase since the filters are designed to work with the stock system, any real change in air flow would require changing the computer programming. Also actual testing done on the proper test equipment has shown they don't filter very well, contrary to their advertising. Back when I was young and stupid I spent the money on a complete K&N intake system, I got no detectable change in power or gas mileage, all I got was a tremendous increase in intake noise, some people think that sounds like more power, but all it really gets you is more noise.
probably not an engineer if he didn't get more specific. if the vehicle in question has a man sensor, the less restrictive filter may let in more air flow, Mar sensing more air will add more fuel, thus more power you can say. that's why on the majority of intake systems thwy give a disclaimer that it may turn your mil on for a lean code, meaning too air for the amount of fuel being burned. that's when you know the maf sensor cannot completely compensate for the more flow of air. on the other hand with map sensor vehicles I don't see how it can make much of a difference.
Eh you can argue that in most modern cars an increase in air flow would equal to leaner mixtures compared to the stock airflow system and we can presume that a car running in closed loop will use the fuel trim/lambda data to increase injection times to compensate for the leaner mixture thus also increasing fuel flow rate , not sure how it will work out in open loop though.
Aleek91 Yep, sound better, look better, better throttle response, all for just $20-$60. And if you get an additional 2% increase in HP, then that's just icing on the cake. By the way, on some cars (like mine) 2% increase = 8 HP. I'll take it.
OddTimeMan HP increase is pretty much busted, throttle response too, having a good cold air intake with box from factory is better in the long run too, so it really boils down to sound.
Aleek91 It may have been "busted" in THIS video, but there are MANY other videos which show a small increase in HP (1%-3%). Some factory intakes have a very small inlet & hose. Most factory intakes & exhausts are designed to be quiet, which is why they come with sealed boxes, silencers & resonators. High performance is usually low on their list of priorities.
have one on my Hyundai Coupe 1999 2.0i and it seems to respond allot faster and the sound of hitting full trottle oh boayyy also accelerating fast shifting between 6000 and 7000 RPM it sounds like a beast! compared to the stock box which makes it sound like a tuned vacuum cleaner lol
It's simple maths - if you put in more air, you need to put in more fuel to actually gain anything at all. Ask any experienced biker that uses K&N air filters with 're-jetted' carbs - that's when the magic happens :o)
Agreed, you can do what ever you want with your vehicle and you may gain a little power, but you'll only experience big horsepower gains with a tune, it's amazing how many people don't realize this fact.
half wrong I think, bikes and cars with carbs will need this but with injection this are not needed because the ECU will compute how much air enter and give the exact amount of fuel for "perfect" combustion ratio. unless you make a huge mod, default injectors will handle well
So, I can turbo charge my car, install heavy duty injectors, and the computer will just "compute" things? no chip or *MAP* needed? Is that what you mean? I hope not. ;) friendly smile
+Niclas Skovbo Kastbjerg not always, the ecu is only designed to compensate and adjust for what stock parts would be able to provide for the most part, but with allot of modern vehicles you actually can instal a turbo or a supercharger and run low boost with a stock tune and it will compensate the air/fuel mixture accordingly, but that's only for forced induction with low boost. A pod filter isn't forcing extra air in so to see a difference in power you need to tune it so the ecu knows it can suck in allot more air with less throttle and what not.
I have a MY08 Legacy 3.0R Spec B. It's the EZ30D or H6 engine with 245 stock at the crank, naturally aspirated. I installed a new Cosworth Panel filter from recommendations on the UK legacy forum. After running a factory reset of the ECU at idol (takes around 30 minutes including battery disconnect) I've seen an increase of 3-4 mpg combined cycle and the car "feels" faster and smoother through the gears. Of course there's an argument to say it's psychosomatic but my partner drives the car to work and told me she's noticed a difference in the pickup. The mod was £39 from an Ebay shop, (Subaru Cosworth Air Filter part number 20002278). I'm really pleased with it, i think it's important to allow the ECU to relearn after increasing flow into the engine, and for a cheap upgrade, this has made a difference to me. Great channel guys :-)
For some cars yes. For others no. I have a 2015 GT, and a 2010 Nissan Xterra. On the Xterra if you want to do any light water crossing you must switch to a open element cold air intake. On many stock housings the ducting works like a straw in the fender well. In water crossing the engine sucks it up like a shop vac. With open pot filters it's able to draw the air much higher up at the top of the engine.
K&N and POD filters are the dumbest scam since bottled water. My friends laugh when I put OEM in my car and bike, but my air intake is clean enough to eat off while their intakes look like a pack-a-day smokers ash tray. I can see using aftermarket filters if you have a designated race vehicle that gets a tear down on a weekly basis, but on commuter vehicles that have a stock map it's totally pointless. All that dirt and dust that makes it into your engine due to increased airflow just is just not worth it. Thank you MCM for proving what I have been saying for years.
ThreeDaysOfDan Depends on the municipality. The town I live in does not add fluoride. I checked. I also use fluoride free xylitol toothpaste and mouthwash. Thanks for your concern.
Mongoose my 1990 eclipse gsx came with a k&n filter and the intake and intercooler pipes are as clean as the day I put them on it don't add HP but i can always just wash out the filter and stick it back on so I don't have to by a new filter
The Glorious Hypnotoad This is also a good point everyone forgets "spending $100 to make no improvement" well, after 5 years you will already have made your money back at least, not to mention you can clean it every month or every week if you wish, not every year or 6 months. Not to mention that it sounds a tonne better, looks a tonne better and is better for the environment as it creates less waste.
well i have never heard that pod filters increase the power. I had an understanding that people do it because of the air induction sound, and the looks of it.
***** what the fuck are you talking about, i'm not defending the pod filter, but nor do i have anything against them, it sounds cool, and i know it DOESN'T make you car go faster.
***** can you see? I'm pretty sure not once did he mention they make the car faster. They ARE however better than the mushroom filters people are buying.
Barry Allen I had a pod filter on my long ram intake but it takes up to much room in the compartment its in so I have to swap to a mushroom filter or just leave it off all together. Granted I wont see much improvements until I swap out the valves to allow for more air flow.
Brian Tolliver My GTR has mushroom filters and believe me if you want your engine to last longer, switch to pods now! The mushroom filter becomes brittle and flows into your car.
I have grown to appreciate you guys. Like most I drive a very underpowered car which I simply keep clean and serviced so I always feel a bit smug when you do one of these reviews and discover these off-the-shelf-mods make....bugger-all difference.
Guys guys guys.... high CFM filters are for HIGH hp cars which NEED them. That little flea of a car don't need more than 50CFM. Try again on a 600hp motor.
+oistein74, Yep you are right but the point of the vid was to test it on the cars people are most likely to put pods on. Clearly they are a waste on low performance cars. Would like to see them do the same on a big block or the like though!
I bought a 180sx that came with a pod filter, so naturally after watching this video I went and sought out a factory air box. Did I gain any sort of noticeable top end power? No, but I did however LOSE a massive amount of mid range power and torque. I left it on long enough for the computer to work itself out and still just felt like the factory box did nothing but give me what felt like a tonne of turbo lag. Switched back to the pod filter and instantly got back my mid range which is what you use the most on a day to day basis and didn't lose any top end power. For this reason I've stuck with the pod filter as even if I did lose a couple top ends kw's, I'd happily trade it for the much smoother delivery.
you know you actually have to have the computer re-mapped every time you do an engine mod dont you ?? the 180SX you bought was most likely re-tuned to run a POD filter, have you checked the car for an aftermarket chip ?? it is not as simple as you think just swapping systems over, and towards the end of the video they talk about computer tuning to get the proper results, you want to listen better
mookie 0. Not for an intake pipe/pod filter. They have another video with a stock s2k that gained 5kw with a pod. Where the guy who was running the dyno actually says you don't need to tune.
Dunno if you boys will see but ive been here since season 2 and whenever i get a new car i go through the playlists and see which ones are relevant to my current car and i gotta say your show has given me the confidence to have a go and because of that i am getting ready to live off grid on the road and a vast majority(obviously not the 4wd specific ones) of mods i have done or still have to do i learnt from you guys so cheers👌
Most newer stock air intakes are well made, and have a comparable resistance and flow of a Pod. If your stock box has a resonator you can gut it to increase flow as well, and that is free. In theory, if your stock air box is adequately feeding your engine, and is capable of maxing it's airflow, no intake mod is going to do much. Kind of like how bigger brakes don't cause your car to stop faster if you don't upgrade your tires as well.
I've watched this like 2 or 3 times during my MCM marathons and I just realised the love heart on the bottom left at 6:17 when he mentions Rake. Fucken legend!
If that car runs on a MAP vs a MAF then you will not see a gain from a filter change without a tune. On a MAF you need to let it idle for quite a while to relearn the BLMs
If ya google it up you will get plenty of info, car has to reach operating temp to go into closed loop for the ECM to "relearn" the stock fuel maps from info from the MAF and o2 sensors. Best to do it at idle to prevent a lean condition while driving, or any other hiccups
Rgmekanic You look more like you know what you're talking about when you provide a link to where you got your information rather than "just google it." If someone asks you to back up your claim, just provide the evidence and a source, not that hard.
Damien Palianta "He ain't here to teach ya. Providing the information is enough, you wanna double check it, do it yourself." Heaven forbid you be capable of supporting your information when questioned on it, eh? The majority of the time when someone is asked for a source, and is unable (or simply presents them self as unwilling) to provide a source, theres a *reason* they are incapable of doing such, and most of the time its not because theyre "too lazy". Im sure you can guess why. If youre not able/willing to support your claims, then they are worthless. When I am skeptical of a claim, I ask for sources.
Motorcycles must be far different from cars than I originally thought! I know in a bike if you drop in pod filters and jet the carbs (or power commander/ecu flash) you WILL see power gains. Also the K&N drop in filters are very safe for the engine. This isn't bro-science, this is actually backed up from racers. I think the oil problems this guy is referring to is based on when people re-apply the oil they put too much on, either that or they install the filter backwards. Disclaimer: I am talking about high revving sport bikes here, I know they are far different from cars.
+HEROrr Carbed setups will see a gain because of the re jet. The higher flow of air allows you to add more fuel. Fuel injected cars will automatically adjust the air/fuel ratio negating the higher flowing intake system. a benifit they didnt cover though is lower EGTs and "work" the engine has to do to suck that air which should in theory increase MPG and power when coupled with OTHER HP mods.
you are right it gain more power as i have done this, but if you re locate the air filter outside the engine bay, draw more cold air it will gain even more power
One item I would have like to have seen would have been a baseline with just a velocity stack (no filter) to show what no restrictions would do for the numbers. Also would have been interesting to try re flashing the ecm in the vehicle to take advantage of supposed better flow. Some vehicles can relearn air fuel curves, but not in one dyno run.
Great videos but it doesn't seem like you included a lot of variable such as, how well the filters work over time, how easily they get clogged, most cars need a tune to utilize a CAI properlyMy car uses a mass airflow sensor and once I put the CAI on it there was a definite throttle response improvement, also the factory airbox takes up about 2x the space
I'm here because you referenced it on your last video. One argument to be had for a pod filter on a turbo car is the mad woooooossshhh sound. That alone is worth it.
I enjoy this stuff, I relies if you put all the upgrades together to complement themselves it makes a difference, but it’s nice to see the numbers separate. thank you guys
I just waxed n polished my stock VY SS commodore...finally doing 8 seconds on the 1/4...had to put a bag of concrete on the bonnet, to stop the front wheels lifting during the launch.
There is an obvious flaw here. Usually people modify intake when they are re-tuning carbs or EFI. You could put a pod on your stock car and make it run like shit, cause the air/fuel mixture would be too lean.
I had a Simota cone on my now stolen E12/8 BMW 518i (converted to a 32/34 Weber), and it made a very noticeable difference. Of course that was coming from a very restrictive small pancake filter though.
Honestly, I think there are a couple pieces missing here. 1. Usually during these tests, the ability of the filter to absorb air by forced induction (meaning that most of these tests I've seen at least use a couple of big fans to simulate the airflow of driving, sitting still isn't pushing air into the front of the car). I mean, it seems they use open element filters on race cars, so it could be that the power unlocks with supporting modifications and relocating the filter to a spot in the car that will allow it the most cold air. I think just popping it on in the middle of one's hot engine probably isn't doing it that many favors. 2. I threw one on my 3000GT back when, and the best benefit I got was I got a little bit better gas mileage... so I think it helped a little! Still, I'm not a mechanic, so I'm not saying I'm right...
They didn't really try to give the POD filters access to direct cool air in any way and they never even bought an actually decent kit with a heat shield ;but are happy to take the win for the stock air filter setup that is enclosed and therefore has heat shielding around the filter. The results are in line with the way they intentionally set out to test PODS vs stock vs stock with better quality filter, had they actually bothered to isolate the pod filters and position them away from engine heat I think the results would have been a little different maybe not huge ;but definitely different plus they are testing on no horsepower having vehicles. They could have at least used a V6 or V8 or something with enough stock power in the engine to validate the use of a POD. They are also running the tests for a very short time on a dyno inside of a garage not driving down the freeway where there is WAY WAY more air movement into the engine bay around the filter. Plus they are testing using a very small time frame rather than hit the freeway and actually test it for more than a couple minutes. Their scientific method is on par with the show Mythbusters (American TV show whose scientific method actually goes against science in the name upholding popular belief 2+2=5 lol ) and are about as factual as the History channel's Ancient Aliens show. You made a lot of good points, these guys don't know! Their television actors which means they're basically finger puppets that only speak the words their puppet master aka director allows lmao. I have a Lincoln LS V6 and have a huge high flow cone K&N intake filter with heat shield that replaced a fatty cone Edelbrock intake w/o a heat shield. Between stock then upgraded stock filter and then the Edelbrock I noticed a huge difference and even more so when I upgraded to the jumbo K&N kit with heat shield. I even mounted the intake so it's at the furthest point away from the engine and almost down in it's own cubby hole with an isolated shaft open to the ground behind the headlight so huge amounts of cool air come straight in and onto the filter and I even fabricated another filter to semi filter the air before it hits the intake without restricting the volume. Sad their only bragging point is a clean filter lol
There really is the factor that 'enough air for your motor in its state of tune' ...is enough air. Stock airboxes in recent cars seem very good for stock (or smaller) engines and are likely to be engineered to work perfectly.(Unless actually made restrictive in the name of quiet.In which case there's that tradeoff.) There's no possible gain in my daily's engine cause it's never starved with the stock airbox in the first place and without a different ECU it'd refuse to accept any gains almost anywhere.) . ...but I've kind of inherited a 'Someone Else' Mods' truck someone put a pod filter/'cold air intake' on that's got a massive pod filter on it but has almost no direct access to fresh air. (and no heat shield, either; I may make something later and, say, at least let some air in with a step-drill, or maybe an old hood intercooler vent, once I get through more-important things) ) This motor may be benefiting from available airflow, and I probably won't hunt down a stock airbox anyway, so I'll live with it since it's there. Fact is, though, there's generally less meat on the bone for 'easy horsepower' in a modern stock engine (especially without changing the tune to want/need /use more air) than there used to be. Unless maybe, like in your Lincoln, engineers were maybe willing to trade off some power for sound. I hear you can often do just as well or better there if you can take the lid off the stock airbox, though. assuming the air still gets filtered. Anyway, the boys were testing a claim about 'drop-in-horsepower' but it only possibly matters *if* an intake restriction (or in my case with a different V6, maybe heat under the hood) was a weak link in the first place. In the old days we sometimes used to take those pie-plate air cleaner covers on carbureted engines and simply flip them upside-down so it all didn't have to come through a snorkel: It could make a difference in a *Seventies*-vintage car, but probably won't outdo modern engineers. At least unless your motor is doing things not-designed-for already.
My sw20 was greatly improved as a toy with a L+N cone filter added. It worked totally as an emotion increasing device as I tore about the b and c roads near me. Best thing ever. It did impact the low end torque but it was a decent compromise for the smiles it gave me with it shrieking up to 7250 in 2nd and occasionally 3rd. It took a good engine noise and made it really special. TIL. Don't buy a cone filter for performance but do buy one for theatre and entertainment. Luv and Peace.
the power to run the A/C comes from the crankshaft you are talking about better than perpetual motion. In drag racing they use a ice to air cooler but the ice doesn't get made in car
I have a 1994 Nissan Sentra 1.6 that I had a pod filter on because I like the sound. I recently put the old airbox back on and while it runs smoother, it definitely lost power in the midrange, and probably a little top end. But I like how quiet it is now.
To be perfectly honest, I'd take this video is a MASSIVE pinch of salt. Just like with their CIA video (which was disproven by Engineering Explained, since he got power gains and posted more concise figures on CT to show it), cone/pod/mushroom filters can actually work at giving a little extra power depending on how crap the stock box actually is and how the car is tuned. I have a Kia Pro_Cee'd GT, and happily it has a boost and torque meter built into the dashboard. When the engine is warm and I'm running on premium, you're looking at around 80KPa of pressure from the turbo and 295Nm of Torque, but the gauges go up to a max of 160KPa and 300Nm. The stock airbox is absolute wank, and not designed for anything performance related. With a 3" hose connected to the Turbo you'd think the inlet opening would be much bigger. The actual open slot for outside air is really thin. The air then goes through two 90 degree bends through a thin pipe into the bottom of a really tall box, then it gets dragged up through the paper filter and is then FINALLY connected to the 3" hose that leads to the Turbo. Its a really odd set-up. Out came the entire factory box and in went a cheap as hell RAMAIR foam cone. Given where the factory box was, the cone is placed at the front of the engine bay on the opposite side the engine, so it's less likely to grab stale hot air. Torque gauge now reads 300Nm (or higher, since 300 is the max on the gauge) and boost has gotten as high as 120KPa. Whilst I don't think it'll make a difference to my overall performance (I certainly don't feel like I'm going to smash my previous 0-60 record), above 4500rpm is noticeably more eager to rev, and heading to peak power at 6000rpm doesn't feel like I'm choking the engine anymore. I'll have to see about getting some 30/50 to 70mph times.
When I had my Fox body mustang I removed the silencer from the stock air box and it seemed to make a difference, even with the stock paper element filter.
they did mention this in the video at the end about tuning, you most likely want to listen better, what these guys are saying is that just putting a pod filter on without a computer tune is a waste of time, or did you not hear that bit ??
+katanaburner 4 Jeeps two ZJs, WJ and a M-715, as well a Zx5 a 72 GTO. F.....U......C.....K that, I will never go back to that noise again cleaning and spraying. And it's not like you can just put them back in, NOOOO they have to be dry, so I had to toss in a paper filter for a day or 2 while they dried out. I even got a Fram Air Hog on sale, rather then spray Red I got to spray Orange.... Too much BS..... WAYYY too much BS...
DarkL88 lol you can't do that, even says in the instructions not to. In any case, I just don't think it's worth it.. Now, if I had to use that "pod" cone that they use in here, I would, because I don't think anyone makes a paper steel mesh unit. I think the Ford F tuck uses a cone like paper one tho.
ramairgto72 Link? I was just on their website and couldn't find the instructions that say no, just more advertising for their cleaning kits and reoilers. They're washable and air cleanable, actually says it on the ad on the main page. *shrugs*
DarkL88 I clearly remember in the instructions not to do that, I looked online as well and didnt find anything. I even looked in my "bag of instructions" for old instructions..
If you want more air going in, you have to allow for more air going out. I had a 2001 chevy 5.3 that was getting 14 miles per gallon stock. After putting on a sceptre cold air intake (pod filter with aluminum tube) and changing the muffler to a more flow through design, I came up to 21 miles per gallon. This of course is on an American v8 pickup truck.
Ford Motorsport (Boreham UK)used K&N type panel filter on their wrc rallycars only for wet rallies, as it stands up to moisture better than the paper filters. On all other rallies they used stock paper filters.
I would like to see the same test done with custom exhaust. Having greater airflow going in probably won't make much of a difference if you can't get improved airflow going out as well.
EvErything in Kilowatts... I feel like i'm taking thermodynamics class again. Oh wait except in thermodynamics we use both horsepower and Kilowatts because Murican Engineering
I'm driving a 2003 Buick rendezvous. Last Saturday I snatched off the factory air box. Stood the ECM that was in top of the airbox on its side and zip tied it to the fender wall. It has an air inlet coming into the fender right there. I put a cone k&n filter on the end with some rigging and a part or two from home Depot. I have some reflective material I think they call it mylar or something is the same stuff used for windshield solar Shields. I got it all zip tied insecured in there so there is no rubbing. She's got a throaty sound and she cruises at 100 plus now breathing very freely. She's a sleeper right now the only thing you see on her is a k&n sticker in the back window LOL
Miniscule power differences, Meh. I'm *much* more interested in filtering capabilities. What's the use of sucking a tiny bit more air in if it comes with a dose of dust?
so i wasted $109 on a k&n panel filter for my 2014 vf sv hsv clubby . and the oil then fucks up the hot wire ? what about vcm air filters ? they also use a k&n style filter element thats oiled too and i had one of those for my ve ss but sold that car shortly after but i got a massive gain with the vcm when they tuned it . looks like im chucking back in my stock paper filter in the morning lol
In the early 1980's the Royal Automobile Association did tests on K&N pod filters and found that they gave, at best, a 7% in engine torque (tractive effort) on both cars and motorcycles. When you open the throttle you feel torque, not horsepower. Back then they used brake dynos which measured only engine output torque and brake horse power was calculated from this with a bit of mathematics. (I used to run an old Thomas Salter brake dyno in 1979 in one job which read torque on a set of scales calibrated in Pounds per Foot). Back then everything had carbs, which gave engines exactly what they demanded and required fettling to match the pod filter. On bikes the rule was to increase the main jet size by 10 points. Ironically fitting pod filters to bikes improved the miles per gallon on bikes, probally by the elimination of intake silencing and emissions control junk dragging on the induction system.
More power isnt always what everyone looks for, more cfm results in more fuel efficiency. Its also much cheaper to have a washable filter. More power in the wallet! I also think that all cars vary. These 2 cars were a bad example (sorry). The first one had a tiny motor which could barely suck air to begin with, and the second one had a turbo that was boosting/controlling the airflow to the engine. How about you slap that on a NA V6 or even better, a NA V8. I'm sure the results will differ.
Verify it with a dyno or a gtech. The butt dyno can be tricked by loud exhaust or intake noise. I love my gtech, cause it told me I wasted a bunch of $ on an upgrade I did and I lost like .3sec in the 1/4 consistently. Or use an area for acceleration where you have a long stretch, look to use signposts for markers for the course and check your speed. It's not exact but it tells ya if you are losing something. Example : from this signpost to the next sign post I usually hit 60, now it's 55, something's wrong.
I still have the stock filter setup up on mine (xr4/st150) which is claimed to be restrictive to keep the car in a certain insurance bracket in UK, it also retains a lot of heat after a 5 hour drive the airbox is very hot. So one day I'll import an enclosed unit from uk that ford used on the higher HP models if not just to let the motor get some cooler air after a long drive.
the plastic bit on the intake was actually more like a resonator... sorta like a plenum it provides reservoir of air to reduce noise and I believe its supposed to help with throttle response.
From my experience there is a noticeable difference in selective circumstances. When going from a Box to a Cone you will normally have less flow restriction. Most factory boxes won't restrict airflow enough to impede engine performance. I have seen cases normally in "dud" cars with the upgraded engine package where the factory box simply is unable to compete. Ive also seen that a big factor of cone filters has to do with climate. In a naturally aspirated car in sub-freezing temps you will get a significantly better throttle response due to the fact that the air spends less time in the intake system therefor having less time to warm up. Now can anyone tell me why NASCAR Doesn't use box filters, or why you never see a fuel injected 454 using aftermarket boxes. Hmm i wonder if the amount of fuel it burns changes how much air it needs, and i wounder if those boxes are capable of supplying the air it would need. Also have any of you ever worked under the hood of a car with no room to begin with. If you can swap a huge bulky box for a small cone you now have made room to do something else. Now how about the fact that squirrels and chipmunks love to live in boxes and eat away at paper filters, Next thing you know you have an acorn in your manifold and fur in your cylinders.
9 років тому+17
What if you were to run on the dyno like it was a treadmill. How much power can you kick
The Hardy Boys No no no, it is hard for a human to come over 1hp even, we did a test att the physics class and no one come over 1 hp so its resonable that the average human can do 0.5 hp.
even the 0.5 hp is probably not too accurate i was just stating something I was always told as a kid ahha but when you think about it our legs have a hell of a lot of torque but just no speed i suppose.
Might not give more power on a dyno, but I changed from oem to foam cone filter and back and the throttle response difference was massively noticeable and not a plecebo, I thought it was when I put it in but when I changed back I realised it made my car drive better. (audi s5 3.0 supercharged)
The surface area the restriction of the filter medium and the directness of flow make for good air flow. If you can get the stock air filter and roll it into a tube, that is what a pod filter is with a cap directly in line with the air flow
im assuming after you guys installed the intake you reflashed your ecu to allow it to use the increase in airflow, without a reflash to let the ecu KNOW that its getting more air it wont utilize it. And even an adaptive ecu will take a while to recognize that its getting more air. Plus an intake setup isnt added for the horsepower gains, its added more for throttle response and torque so with the addition of an intake you would see the most gains with adding a bigger throttle body as well, plus the sweet whoosh noises
some say that's why the rev-limiter exists , I step back for the inevitable smoke show because those people don't know jack lol my sisters bf never learned why I step back when he revs the engine sitting still after a cold start and he's blown oil pans..
If you are referring to the dyno runs, here's a tip: learn how a dyno works. They have huge industrial fans at the front of the car to simulate the airflow if the car were travelling at high speeds. So there won't be "no wind."
Zicrax ™ what HUGE industrial fan? I see none. I only see a 2x2 fan that they only decide to put on a over extended intake tube which barely blows. 60mph will knock things over that's not tied down.
I've got a VE Calais V V6 alloytec, and bought a $135 air filter K&N and put it in the car and goes alot better, has alot better pickup and is now better on fuel
one thing to consider is how quickly a filter gets dirty, it's all about surface area, I reckon a pod filter has slightly more surface area, and the internal bit will probably stay cleaner longer, the horsepower gain from a dirty filter to clean filter is quite good, not to mention the engine stuggles less.
The tests are highly flawed! You are messing around with air intake and expect the ecu to instantly re-adjust which is unrealistic. Even if the car was restricted by air flow, it would not adjust gas intake until ecu re-adjusts. You would have to test the power on normal filters change the filter, drive around with the car so that ecu re-adjusts the fuel mixture as the air intake sensor gives different reading and only then test the power of the car.
they do multiple runs and it does idle before it starts a run... also the ECU should make 95% of its adjustments after just 5 seconds, also no matter what even though I love CAI and Pod filters its not going to make power and if it does its gonna be very negligible and you'll never feel it... But with other supporting mods (Throttle Bodies, Exhaust, Extractors, ECU Tunes/Flash) then yes it will make a HUGE difference!
Usually people use them for the sound. I mean... It just gives that beautiful engine note. Just gotta love it. But well, power loss is guaranteed. ;) At least on the smaller engine'd cars.
My car benefits from a pod filter, primarily due to the fact that it original air intake set up was a scramble of pipes before the intercooler, kinda like air intake spaghetti. With a pod filter i was able to run a single pipe directly to the intercooler.
Don't forget that a pod filter will also speed up throttle response over the factory every time. The difference is quite mind blowing how quickly the engine revs after fitting a pod or cone filter.
You know when you install an aftermarket intake you're also suppose to tune/adjust the throttle response to a higher rpm than its original place. Only then will you see the difference in performance.
+Krevin Grard So many people think it will make a difference on a smaller engine lets say 1400 cc. It will suck in more air but its near the engine so it will suck in hot air which will make the engine overheat or it will just make the engine suffocate. Stock is best on smaller cars. Cones and cold air intakes are best for bigger cars which really needs a bigger air intake.
+Viewing Cold air intake work. Look at the intake air temperature with a cold air intake VS stock airbox and it will make a difference. It won't change much on performance at stock levels, but on a fully built car, you need more air, more fuel and more exhaust. If you miss the intake part, your build will suffer.
MCM, I wish I stumbled across your site years ago. Good work, good presentation and the science looks good. That said, I drive a NA, I6, FG, CC Ute. Great car. I`ve fitted Pacemaker 4500 and a KPM Street fighter. Standard exhaust. The torque just feels a bit fatter, especially down low, don't have to shuffle gears as much. Nice note (not loud) when under load. But unless I grab a tune, I agree, little difference between standard and modded.. Unlike the old days where a bolt on could give you gains, the computer is firm on its delivery. Shame the computers are so tight on there delivery.
3 Things very wrong with this (as usual Mighty Car Mods have shown that their knowledge and experience is very limited and cut way too many parameters out of this test) 1st: The point of a pod filter is for it to be placed as far away from the engine, generally closer to the radiator/grill, as possible to increase the amount of cold air (much more so even than paper filters as there is no box so keeping it near the engine means all of the hot engine air will be going straight into it, actually lowering performance, to emphasise this look at high end pod filters which sometimes come with heat guards to limit air access from engine side). 2nd: You need to allow time for any alterations in air or oil composition to effect the performance of an engine. Very long to explain so look to fuel as a comparison. When swapping between 98oct fuel and e85 for turbo engines you need to wait until the ethanol percentage has changed before getting accurate readings of power. In an air filter situation this is similar as the computer adjusts based on a variety of factors such as pressure, which is the main difference that a pod filter makes as it increases intake. If you don't allow time for the pressure to alter the ecu operation then how do you expect the performance to change? The car hasn't even realised it has a new filter yet, derp! 3rd: These cars are unsuitable for pod filters straight up, get a turbo car with an effective oil/water cooling system and it will eradicate the problem of the hot air intake, meaning that the increase in pressure/volume of air intake will become more evident. Source: I'm a mechanic, if you want me to provide an online source then provide a source that is better than 9 years of experience first as I don't want to hear a bunch of kids expecting justification when they don't offer any of their own for doubting. P.S. Also, before asking for a source, use common sense and think about it, usually you can tell if something is legitimate or not by using your brain, if you are too stupid to understand my very basic and simple explanations then you have no common sense and that is not my problem, if you understand but disagree that is totally different, please have at me :)
Awesome info pretty much explains it all. However I got a beef with this video as well there is one thing that big tuners do to simulate a moving car is adding fans because when a car is moving its drawing in more fresh air into the engine bay. I don't believe won't believe and cannot believe their results. Especially since when they did the pod filter they left it in the back corner of a hot engine bay and on a crap car. Plus I run a k&n filter on my new car its gonna save me more money since I don't have to spend $25 a yr in new filters. Also no maf for me my car runs on speed density.
sadelcol theres a fan right in front of the dyno doy.... and as they said this only retaining to actual peak hp gains not powerband tuning or any specific car tuning..
Shelby Lowry didn't look like a fan to me looked like a work bench. The testing they did at times show no peak gains or overall gains. Don't need specific tuning for a filter change. Biggest thing is letting a ecu relearn what is happening. Just watch many other tuners dyno cars its way different then what that guy did. I mean it's nice people trying to help others out. I would much rather spend the money on my k&n once and clean it compared to a new filter more often. Driving around farm land dust grass etc I'd much rather wash it. They were showing some losses on there as well.
interestingly on an Aygo engine you get most power with the factory "restrictive" filter assembly on - but the element removed inside. The inlet is much smaller on this airbox than you would think the engine needs but it promotes laminar flow.
Cold air filters dont increase your HP? DUH! It increases performance, ... what does that mean? Think of it this way, run around with one nostril covered. Its more exhausting right? Ofcourse it is. Now if you run around with both nostril open, you wont run faster but airflow will increase which means its much more effortless to run around. Thats what cold air does, it maximizes air flow to make it easier for your car to run at a more exhausting pace. And keep the engine block cooler. Would I recommend acold air intake? Depends? If its an older 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s car yes newer cars lije 2000s not really the guys that maje these cars are prepared for all this. A cold air intake should be the last thing you modify, After a turbo or super charge, cam shaft, rolker rockers, headers, then maybe a cold air filter. No! There not useless
***** He doesn't know what he's talking about. His "running around with one nostril plugged" analogy would suggest the car's air intake is clogged(at filter?), or restricted, which would inhibit HP.
***** Are you really that dumb or you playing like such?? The HP of the car is stock and it can't be changed with any filter, Though,the way your engine runs threw the RPM's depends on the air flow going into the chambers. If you run 1 km for 7 min and you smoke,imagine replacing your lungs with some huge from a none-smoker..,you still won't run like a Michael Jordan,but you will run that distance faster,right?
Rev55 if you start wasting your time by explaining to each "mythbuster" douchebag in youtube how the things are working in the car,you wont have a free time for a drink:) I am amazed to the deep of my bones how uneducate and dumb people there is these days,despite the fact that you are few clicks away from all the info in the world is available!! There are people coming to our service with brand new cars to ask(imagine!!) and auto A/C,to ask what is the recommended temperature to set all year round,so that i set it,and they don't need to touch it anymore!! Others doesn't know where is the button for the rear window defrost..and more and more idiots with even more idiotic questions,of which i am not sure whether to answer or laugh my ass off:))) That though is not the problem,the real issue is that each one of them has the self confidence of an expert,highest than the Pope maybe,and they have ZERO tolerance to criticism too!! Anyway,cheers and Marry Christmas mate!
wow! thank you for this video, soooo many questions answered for me...and I thought i was gonna be all cool and get a K&N Air Filter...Yea...screw that, Thank you MCM!!!
The oiled filter is for off road use or common gravel road travel. It is designed to capture the finest of particles at the maximum level protecting your engine longer than a stock paper filter. It is reusable and over the lifetime of a car can give you an extra 100,000 miles of use.
You can get a defect on your car for using a different air filter? Shit's far too strict in Aus... Nobody cares what filter you use here in the USA as long as it will pass emission test, and most aftermkt filters will.
Krankie V It's ridiculous.. In Victoria we are allowed to have pod filters, no idea why it's such a problem in NSW.. Australia is overly cautious with it's laws in some areas, but in turn we have a pretty safe country.
Quantametric Coluccio In the US, you'll only get shit in California for having an aftermkt filter. I understand the need for emission control laws, but I fail to see how an upgraded air filter can increase emissions. If anything, more air would make it run cleaner.
Krankie V Yeah Australia is fucking retarded! They fine you for dumb shit like this but are happy to let abbos walk the streets in drunken stupor on alcohol that the state has funded! But hey man........don't you dare change that FUCKING AIR FILTER!!!!!!!
OMFG. I can't take the shear idiocy of these commenters. I'm out, waste your $100, I don't care. Dear MCM, apparently you can't fix stupid. Nice try though.
This doesn't even need to be a video, a full cold-air intake will give you increased horse power. A short ram will help out a little but as stated it's sucking in hot air from the engine and being that cold air is better running a full intake down to your front air dam is the best way. If you know anything about airflow then you'll know smooth is better. Exhaust without major kinks and bends will help air escape better. The same works with intakes. Cars are designed with those giant intakes to first reduce intake noise but also to tune the sound of the engine as odd as that sounds. Waste of a video
Going back to this old video is like stepping in a time machine. I''m in awe of how far they have come... Good job boys ✌️
just got here after watching the latest ep
lol me too
Same fam. Drop your IG and I'll give you follow. @unrelentingvisions
Bro strait up
Hi.
Only reason I'm buying an aftermarket intake is for sound. Purely for in car sound.
+RevoltTrain Nothing wrong with that.
+RevoltTrain I did the same in my truck, lol. Love the roar/hiss it makes. Then again my intake was directly on top of the motor sucking in direct heat. At least running a pipe with a cone to my wheel well helped. I'm only at 412 HP atm so I guess it's a gain a bit.
As long as it actually sounds better and not just louder. Fuckin ricers and their goddamn fart cans.
+RevoltTrain Same with my celica, but also becasue the aftermarket filter and pipe looks better and is alot easier to get to the filter. Toyota really squeezed the OEM box in there. Truth be told, I could have probably pulled the air filter off a 5hp briggs and stratton and I doubt the whooping 140HP 1zz would care.
Legit mod since you get a better sound and a better looking engine bay.
So...you're saying OEM engineers might actually know what they're doing.....who knew? hmph...
+F!@#Guilt Millions of dollars are used on R&D by the guys that actually makes the engine!!! SHOCKING NEWS!
+skirmich And still theyre building shit all over the place.
ThePaint Like what?
+skirmich Nearly every car mass produced has parts on it that can be done multiple times better by an aftermarket company. That millions of dollars in R&D isn't spent on making the car perfect. It's spent on making sure the car works well enough at the lowest production cost. There are intake systems out there that are in fact restrictive and a simple intake system upgrade does wonders. It's all about finding where the engineers goofed in order to maximize your HP/dollar ratio. One example: 5.0L EFI Mustangs had a horrible rubber, ribbed intake tube that did no favors for the air flow and absorbed every BTU of heat under the hood. A simple K&N intake system upgrade and it actually made significant power gains. Now, will a simple filter change free up any power on a stock vehicle? Probably not unless the engineers goofed on something that simply which they do from time to time.
Rick Miller LOL Somehow I knew you were going to mention a Domestic....
i put some flame decals on my car and got around an extra 20 hp
+Masta Cheifer yeah i know i did to, i did 2 runs with the flame decals and i saw a 85% horsepower increase, good stuff :)
+Masta Cheifer Don't forget the spoiler.
I started using jet fuel instead of regular gasoline. I'm getting 1,000 hp.
Masta Cheifer
And remember if it's fwd add a spoiler it adds 50hp
And as an extra bonus, if they're ghost flame decals rather than regular flames you car sheds 50lbs of weight
I talked to a retired engineer that had worked for K&N, he admitted that you won't see an increase since the filters are designed to work with the stock system, any real change in air flow would require changing the computer programming. Also actual testing done on the proper test equipment has shown they don't filter very well, contrary to their advertising. Back when I was young and stupid I spent the money on a complete K&N intake system, I got no detectable change in power or gas mileage, all I got was a tremendous increase in intake noise, some people think that sounds like more power, but all it really gets you is more noise.
G56AG fooking hell, every third person I talk to knows someone from K&N, they must have one hell of a employee turnover.
It gave my 4 cylinder levin more rumble tho haha, I've got my old air box in the car atm tho. So that the muffler isn't droning so much haha
probably not an engineer if he didn't get more specific. if the vehicle in question has a man sensor, the less restrictive filter may let in more air flow, Mar sensing more air will add more fuel, thus more power you can say. that's why on the majority of intake systems thwy give a disclaimer that it may turn your mil on for a lean code, meaning too air for the amount of fuel being burned. that's when you know the maf sensor cannot completely compensate for the more flow of air. on the other hand with map sensor vehicles I don't see how it can make much of a difference.
Eh you can argue that in most modern cars an increase in air flow would equal to leaner mixtures compared to the stock airflow system and we can presume that a car running in closed loop will use the fuel trim/lambda data to increase injection times to compensate for the leaner mixture thus also increasing fuel flow rate , not sure how it will work out in open loop though.
lol everything in this post is bullshit and every reply is also. Get educated guys you all sound stupid its not 1992 anymore
But podfilters sound better, and if there is no gain nor loss, isn't that really a win?
Aleek91 good point actually if you're happy to pay that money just for the sound. I am because i'm a teenager and that's what we do hahahaha
Aleek91 Yep, sound better, look better, better throttle response, all for just $20-$60. And if you get an additional 2% increase in HP, then that's just icing on the cake. By the way, on some cars (like mine) 2% increase = 8 HP. I'll take it.
OddTimeMan HP increase is pretty much busted, throttle response too, having a good cold air intake with box from factory is better in the long run too, so it really boils down to sound.
Aleek91 It may have been "busted" in THIS video, but there are MANY other videos which show a small increase in HP (1%-3%). Some factory intakes have a very small inlet & hose. Most factory intakes & exhausts are designed to be quiet, which is why they come with sealed boxes, silencers & resonators. High performance is usually low on their list of priorities.
have one on my Hyundai Coupe 1999 2.0i and it seems to respond allot faster and the sound of hitting full trottle oh boayyy also accelerating fast shifting between 6000 and 7000 RPM it sounds like a beast! compared to the stock box which makes it sound like a tuned vacuum cleaner lol
It's simple maths - if you put in more air, you need to put in more fuel to actually gain anything at all. Ask any experienced biker that uses K&N air filters with 're-jetted' carbs - that's when the magic happens :o)
Agreed, you can do what ever you want with your vehicle and you may gain a little power, but you'll only experience big horsepower gains with a tune, it's amazing how many people don't realize this fact.
half wrong I think, bikes and cars with carbs will need this but with injection this are not needed because the ECU will compute how much air enter and give the exact amount of fuel for "perfect" combustion ratio. unless you make a huge mod, default injectors will handle well
well simple. get a intake kit with a mass air flow sensor install it and flash the ecu to allow more fuel.
So, I can turbo charge my car, install heavy duty injectors, and the computer will just "compute" things? no chip or *MAP* needed? Is that what you mean? I hope not. ;) friendly smile
+Niclas Skovbo Kastbjerg not always, the ecu is only designed to compensate and adjust for what stock parts would be able to provide for the most part, but with allot of modern vehicles you actually can instal a turbo or a supercharger and run low boost with a stock tune and it will compensate the air/fuel mixture accordingly, but that's only for forced induction with low boost. A pod filter isn't forcing extra air in so to see a difference in power you need to tune it so the ecu knows it can suck in allot more air with less throttle and what not.
6:18 i like how that little love heart flashed up when he mentioned Rake
Anyone else coming back to the video that introduced them to MCM?
I have a MY08 Legacy 3.0R Spec B. It's the EZ30D or H6 engine with 245 stock at the crank, naturally aspirated. I installed a new Cosworth Panel filter from recommendations on the UK legacy forum. After running a factory reset of the ECU at idol (takes around 30 minutes including battery disconnect) I've seen an increase of 3-4 mpg combined cycle and the car "feels" faster and smoother through the gears. Of course there's an argument to say it's psychosomatic but my partner drives the car to work and told me she's noticed a difference in the pickup. The mod was £39 from an Ebay shop, (Subaru Cosworth Air Filter part number 20002278). I'm really pleased with it, i think it's important to allow the ECU to relearn after increasing flow into the engine, and for a cheap upgrade, this has made a difference to me. Great channel guys :-)
Your stock air box also keeps out water and dirt, better choice.
Shut up
+Jay ayee *ricer*
Keeps air in too
For some cars yes. For others no. I have a 2015 GT, and a 2010 Nissan Xterra. On the Xterra if you want to do any light water crossing you must switch to a open element cold air intake. On many stock housings the ducting works like a straw in the fender well. In water crossing the engine sucks it up like a shop vac. With open pot filters it's able to draw the air much higher up at the top of the engine.
hey i have a 675LT am i a rice ?
K&N and POD filters are the dumbest scam since bottled water. My friends laugh when I put OEM in my car and bike, but my air intake is clean enough to eat off while their intakes look like a pack-a-day smokers ash tray. I can see using aftermarket filters if you have a designated race vehicle that gets a tear down on a weekly basis, but on commuter vehicles that have a stock map it's totally pointless. All that dirt and dust that makes it into your engine due to increased airflow just is just not worth it. Thank you MCM for proving what I have been saying for years.
Mongoose good luck drinking all that fluoride in tap water pall.
ThreeDaysOfDan
Depends on the municipality. The town I live in does not add fluoride. I checked. I also use fluoride free xylitol toothpaste and mouthwash. Thanks for your concern.
Mongoose my 1990 eclipse gsx came with a k&n filter and the intake and intercooler pipes are as clean as the day I put them on it don't add HP but i can always just wash out the filter and stick it back on so I don't have to by a new filter
The Glorious Hypnotoad thats why I use them for yoears allready on several cars, never had problems ... but I guess this discussion never ends ...
The Glorious Hypnotoad This is also a good point everyone forgets "spending $100 to make no improvement" well, after 5 years you will already have made your money back at least, not to mention you can clean it every month or every week if you wish, not every year or 6 months. Not to mention that it sounds a tonne better, looks a tonne better and is better for the environment as it creates less waste.
well i have never heard that pod filters increase the power. I had an understanding that people do it because of the air induction sound, and the looks of it.
***** what the fuck are you talking about, i'm not defending the pod filter, but nor do i have anything against them, it sounds cool, and i know it DOESN'T make you car go faster.
***** can you see? I'm pretty sure not once did he mention they make the car faster. They ARE however better than the mushroom filters people are buying.
Barry Allen I had a pod filter on my long ram intake but it takes up to much room in the compartment its in so I have to swap to a mushroom filter or just leave it off all together. Granted I wont see much improvements until I swap out the valves to allow for more air flow.
Brian Tolliver My GTR has mushroom filters and believe me if you want your engine to last longer, switch to pods now! The mushroom filter becomes brittle and flows into your car.
o.O how so they are made of the same materials its just a different shape.
I have grown to appreciate you guys. Like most I drive a very underpowered car which I simply keep clean and serviced so I always feel a bit smug when you do one of these reviews and discover these off-the-shelf-mods make....bugger-all difference.
Guys guys guys.... high CFM filters are for HIGH hp cars which NEED them. That little flea of a car don't need more than 50CFM. Try again on a 600hp motor.
+oistein74 Exactly.
+oistein74 This video though was meant for guys who put these filters in their cheapo cars
+oistein74 That Legacy turbo/liberty should be able to take advantage of it if there is an advantage.
No, you need an engine which has higher airflow than that.
+oistein74, Yep you are right but the point of the vid was to test it on the cars people are most likely to put pods on. Clearly they are a waste on low performance cars. Would like to see them do the same on a big block or the like though!
As long as you dont loose power its a win situation for me as the open filter sounds much better!
I bought a 180sx that came with a pod filter, so naturally after watching this video I went and sought out a factory air box. Did I gain any sort of noticeable top end power? No, but I did however LOSE a massive amount of mid range power and torque. I left it on long enough for the computer to work itself out and still just felt like the factory box did nothing but give me what felt like a tonne of turbo lag. Switched back to the pod filter and instantly got back my mid range which is what you use the most on a day to day basis and didn't lose any top end power. For this reason I've stuck with the pod filter as even if I did lose a couple top ends kw's, I'd happily trade it for the much smoother delivery.
A normally aspirated engine would see some kW gains but a turbo charged one would not there video is not wrong
you know you actually have to have the computer re-mapped every time you do an engine mod dont you ?? the 180SX you bought was most likely re-tuned to run a POD filter, have you checked the car for an aftermarket chip ?? it is not as simple as you think just swapping systems over, and towards the end of the video they talk about computer tuning to get the proper results, you want to listen better
Banoodle ! Not all cars have a good factory air box and other mods can affect the stock air box performance
mookie 0. Not for an intake pipe/pod filter. They have another video with a stock s2k that gained 5kw with a pod. Where the guy who was running the dyno actually says you don't need to tune.
true those filters works, i got lot more torque in low end vs orginal filter.. This video was Fake
Dunno if you boys will see but ive been here since season 2 and whenever i get a new car i go through the playlists and see which ones are relevant to my current car and i gotta say your show has given me the confidence to have a go and because of that i am getting ready to live off grid on the road and a vast majority(obviously not the 4wd specific ones) of mods i have done or still have to do i learnt from you guys so cheers👌
6:17 little heart in the bottom left corner .-.
Absolutely the best comment in the entire comment-history of this video. I commend and appreciate you, decent commenter guy.
I seen that too da fuck
xPad1x I just love how I commented that 8 months ago on this video, and I didn't a single like ._.
xPad1x Cos he said "Rake" (Rake loves it)
Most newer stock air intakes are well made, and have a comparable resistance and flow of a Pod. If your stock box has a resonator you can gut it to increase flow as well, and that is free. In theory, if your stock air box is adequately feeding your engine, and is capable of maxing it's airflow, no intake mod is going to do much. Kind of like how bigger brakes don't cause your car to stop faster if you don't upgrade your tires as well.
I cannot remember anyone else than Tuning Fork dynoing an MCM car
Thanks for fixing the volume levels on the background music. It really made a difference when watching the video.
I've watched this like 2 or 3 times during my MCM marathons and I just realised the love heart on the bottom left at 6:17 when he mentions Rake. Fucken legend!
If that car runs on a MAP vs a MAF then you will not see a gain from a filter change without a tune. On a MAF you need to let it idle for quite a while to relearn the BLMs
"On a MAF you need to let it idle for quite a while to relearn the BLMs"
Can you provide some sources to support your assertions here? Thanks.
If ya google it up you will get plenty of info, car has to reach operating temp to go into closed loop for the ECM to "relearn" the stock fuel maps from info from the MAF and o2 sensors.
Best to do it at idle to prevent a lean condition while driving, or any other hiccups
Rgmekanic You look more like you know what you're talking about when you provide a link to where you got your information rather than "just google it." If someone asks you to back up your claim, just provide the evidence and a source, not that hard.
Rinyotsu He ain't here to teach ya. Providing the information is enough, you wanna double check it, do it yourself.
Damien Palianta "He ain't here to teach ya. Providing the information is enough, you wanna double check it, do it yourself."
Heaven forbid you be capable of supporting your information when questioned on it, eh?
The majority of the time when someone is asked for a source, and is unable (or simply presents them self as unwilling) to provide a source, theres a *reason* they are incapable of doing such, and most of the time its not because theyre "too lazy". Im sure you can guess why. If youre not able/willing to support your claims, then they are worthless. When I am skeptical of a claim, I ask for sources.
Motorcycles must be far different from cars than I originally thought! I know in a bike if you drop in pod filters and jet the carbs (or power commander/ecu flash) you WILL see power gains. Also the K&N drop in filters are very safe for the engine. This isn't bro-science, this is actually backed up from racers. I think the oil problems this guy is referring to is based on when people re-apply the oil they put too much on, either that or they install the filter backwards. Disclaimer: I am talking about high revving sport bikes here, I know they are far different from cars.
+HEROrr Carbed setups will see a gain because of the re jet. The higher flow of air allows you to add more fuel. Fuel injected cars will automatically adjust the air/fuel ratio negating the higher flowing intake system. a benifit they didnt cover though is lower EGTs and "work" the engine has to do to suck that air which should in theory increase MPG and power when coupled with OTHER HP mods.
you are right it gain more power as i have done this, but if you re locate the air filter outside the engine bay, draw more cold air it will gain even more power
@@zososldier for motorcycle if you don reject for more fuel it running too lean as a result worst than stock
Excellent advice at 3:41! I will take a dump before getting in my car for performance gain! Thanks lads
Watching this in 2020. Nice to go down memory lane.
One item I would have like to have seen would have been a baseline with just a velocity stack (no filter) to show what no restrictions would do for the numbers. Also would have been interesting to try re flashing the ecm in the vehicle to take advantage of supposed better flow. Some vehicles can relearn air fuel curves, but not in one dyno run.
Great videos but it doesn't seem like you included a lot of variable such as, how well the filters work over time, how easily they get clogged, most cars need a tune to utilize a CAI properlyMy car uses a mass airflow sensor and once I put the CAI on it there was a definite throttle response improvement, also the factory airbox takes up about 2x the space
I'm here because you referenced it on your last video. One argument to be had for a pod filter on a turbo car is the mad woooooossshhh sound. That alone is worth it.
I enjoy this stuff, I relies if you put all the upgrades together to complement themselves it makes a difference, but it’s nice to see the numbers separate. thank you guys
All through this video i was hoping you guys would do a run without an air filter
I'd like to see these tests done after a proper tune.
thanks guys , you have just saved me some money. will just stick to factory paper filters from now on
I just waxed n polished my stock VY SS commodore...finally doing 8 seconds on the 1/4...had to put a bag of concrete on the bonnet, to stop the front wheels lifting during the launch.
love that even though they mythbusted pod filters they still use pod filters lol
There is an obvious flaw here. Usually people modify intake when they are re-tuning carbs or EFI. You could put a pod on your stock car and make it run like shit, cause the air/fuel mixture would be too lean.
Yeah because MAF, MAP and O2 sensors don't exist I guess.
Thanks for doing the tests. That's what I thought. Less surface area on the pod filter makes less airflow and thus less power.
I had a Simota cone on my now stolen E12/8 BMW 518i (converted to a 32/34 Weber), and it made a very noticeable difference. Of course that was coming from a very restrictive small pancake filter though.
Haha they look so young in this. Just come from their latest vid on “pod filters”
Same here!
Honestly, I think there are a couple pieces missing here.
1. Usually during these tests, the ability of the filter to absorb air by forced induction (meaning that most of these tests I've seen at least use a couple of big fans to simulate the airflow of driving, sitting still isn't pushing air into the front of the car). I mean, it seems they use open element filters on race cars, so it could be that the power unlocks with supporting modifications and relocating the filter to a spot in the car that will allow it the most cold air. I think just popping it on in the middle of one's hot engine probably isn't doing it that many favors.
2. I threw one on my 3000GT back when, and the best benefit I got was I got a little bit better gas mileage... so I think it helped a little!
Still, I'm not a mechanic, so I'm not saying I'm right...
They didn't really try to give the POD filters access to direct cool air in any way and they never even bought an actually decent kit with a heat shield ;but are happy to take the win for the stock air filter setup that is enclosed and therefore has heat shielding around the filter.
The results are in line with the way they intentionally set out to test PODS vs stock vs stock with better quality filter, had they actually bothered to isolate the pod filters and position them away from engine heat I think the results would have been a little different maybe not huge ;but definitely different plus they are testing on no horsepower having vehicles. They could have at least used a V6 or V8 or something with enough stock power in the engine to validate the use of a POD.
They are also running the tests for a very short time on a dyno inside of a garage not driving down the freeway where there is WAY WAY more air movement into the engine bay around the filter. Plus they are testing using a very small time frame rather than hit the freeway and actually test it for more than a couple minutes.
Their scientific method is on par with the show Mythbusters (American TV show whose scientific method actually goes against science in the name upholding popular belief 2+2=5 lol ) and are about as factual as the History channel's Ancient Aliens show.
You made a lot of good points, these guys don't know! Their television actors which means they're basically finger puppets that only speak the words their puppet master aka director allows lmao.
I have a Lincoln LS V6 and have a huge high flow cone K&N intake filter with heat shield that replaced a fatty cone Edelbrock intake w/o a heat shield.
Between stock then upgraded stock filter and then the Edelbrock I noticed a huge difference and even more so when I upgraded to the jumbo K&N kit with heat shield. I even mounted the intake so it's at the furthest point away from the engine and almost down in it's own cubby hole with an isolated shaft open to the ground behind the headlight so huge amounts of cool air come straight in and onto the filter and I even fabricated another filter to semi filter the air before it hits the intake without restricting the volume. Sad their only bragging point is a clean filter lol
There really is the factor that 'enough air for your motor in its state of tune' ...is enough air. Stock airboxes in recent cars seem very good for stock (or smaller) engines and are likely to be engineered to work perfectly.(Unless actually made restrictive in the name of quiet.In which case there's that tradeoff.) There's no possible gain in my daily's engine cause it's never starved with the stock airbox in the first place and without a different ECU it'd refuse to accept any gains almost anywhere.) .
...but I've kind of inherited a 'Someone Else' Mods' truck someone put a pod filter/'cold air intake' on that's got a massive pod filter on it but has almost no direct access to fresh air. (and no heat shield, either; I may make something later and, say, at least let some air in with a step-drill, or maybe an old hood intercooler vent, once I get through more-important things) ) This motor may be benefiting from available airflow, and I probably won't hunt down a stock airbox anyway, so I'll live with it since it's there. Fact is, though, there's generally less meat on the bone for 'easy horsepower' in a modern stock engine (especially without changing the tune to want/need /use more air) than there used to be. Unless maybe, like in your Lincoln, engineers were maybe willing to trade off some power for sound. I hear you can often do just as well or better there if you can take the lid off the stock airbox, though. assuming the air still gets filtered.
Anyway, the boys were testing a claim about 'drop-in-horsepower' but it only possibly matters *if* an intake restriction (or in my case with a different V6, maybe heat under the hood) was a weak link in the first place. In the old days we sometimes used to take those pie-plate air cleaner covers on carbureted engines and simply flip them upside-down so it all didn't have to come through a snorkel: It could make a difference in a *Seventies*-vintage car, but probably won't outdo modern engineers. At least unless your motor is doing things not-designed-for already.
My sw20 was greatly improved as a toy with a L+N cone filter added. It worked totally as an emotion increasing device as I tore about the b and c roads near me.
Best thing ever.
It did impact the low end torque but it was a decent compromise for the smiles it gave me with it shrieking up to 7250 in 2nd and occasionally 3rd.
It took a good engine noise and made it really special.
TIL. Don't buy a cone filter for performance but do buy one for theatre and entertainment.
Luv and Peace.
I used an aem intake on my 2.4 03 accord and it did give great results it also wasted a little more gas
is there any way to redirect the AC to the pod filter area, now the cold air is flowing cold air you should get better performance
the power to run the A/C comes from the crankshaft you are talking about better than perpetual motion.
In drag racing they use a ice to air cooler but the ice doesn't get made in car
Just keep yer stock air box and get like a k&n filter or something
I have a 1994 Nissan Sentra 1.6 that I had a pod filter on because I like the sound. I recently put the old airbox back on and while it runs smoother, it definitely lost power in the midrange, and probably a little top end. But I like how quiet it is now.
That is a good set up for sohc falcon👍
Cheers Johnny.
The excuses flow freely in this thread
To be perfectly honest, I'd take this video is a MASSIVE pinch of salt. Just like with their CIA video (which was disproven by Engineering Explained, since he got power gains and posted more concise figures on CT to show it), cone/pod/mushroom filters can actually work at giving a little extra power depending on how crap the stock box actually is and how the car is tuned.
I have a Kia Pro_Cee'd GT, and happily it has a boost and torque meter built into the dashboard. When the engine is warm and I'm running on premium, you're looking at around 80KPa of pressure from the turbo and 295Nm of Torque, but the gauges go up to a max of 160KPa and 300Nm.
The stock airbox is absolute wank, and not designed for anything performance related. With a 3" hose connected to the Turbo you'd think the inlet opening would be much bigger. The actual open slot for outside air is really thin. The air then goes through two 90 degree bends through a thin pipe into the bottom of a really tall box, then it gets dragged up through the paper filter and is then FINALLY connected to the 3" hose that leads to the Turbo. Its a really odd set-up.
Out came the entire factory box and in went a cheap as hell RAMAIR foam cone. Given where the factory box was, the cone is placed at the front of the engine bay on the opposite side the engine, so it's less likely to grab stale hot air. Torque gauge now reads 300Nm (or higher, since 300 is the max on the gauge) and boost has gotten as high as 120KPa.
Whilst I don't think it'll make a difference to my overall performance (I certainly don't feel like I'm going to smash my previous 0-60 record), above 4500rpm is noticeably more eager to rev, and heading to peak power at 6000rpm doesn't feel like I'm choking the engine anymore.
I'll have to see about getting some 30/50 to 70mph times.
benanderson89 this video is about how people slap a pod filter in a stock car
When I had my Fox body mustang I removed the silencer from the stock air box and it seemed to make a difference, even with the stock paper element filter.
Brilliant video..Good information without a sales pitch..Looks like ill need that red, go faster paint!
\
Now try remapping it with the expensive filter on... That is what you are supposed to do
Yeah, dipshits didn't even bother tuning... You know, like you would actually do.
Then you need to remap with the stock filter, and the pod filters so that you have a constant.
they did mention this in the video at the end about tuning, you most likely want to listen better, what these guys are saying is that just putting a pod filter on without a computer tune is a waste of time, or did you not hear that bit ??
Lmao the end of your comment has me laughing XD
I use drop in K&Ns in my Impreza STi and Outback XT solely cause I don't want to keep replacing the filters. I prefer washing them.
+katanaburner 4 Jeeps two ZJs, WJ and a M-715, as well a Zx5 a 72 GTO.
F.....U......C.....K that, I will never go back to that noise again cleaning and spraying.
And it's not like you can just put them back in, NOOOO they have to be dry, so I had to toss in a paper filter for a day or 2 while they dried out.
I even got a Fram Air Hog on sale, rather then spray Red I got to spray Orange....
Too much BS..... WAYYY too much BS...
+ramairgto72 lol... I use a compressor and just dry blow it clean. Straight back in, works a treat.
DarkL88 lol you can't do that, even says in the instructions not to.
In any case, I just don't think it's worth it..
Now, if I had to use that "pod" cone that they use in here, I would, because I don't think anyone makes a paper steel mesh unit.
I think the Ford F tuck uses a cone like paper one tho.
ramairgto72
Link? I was just on their website and couldn't find the instructions that say no, just more advertising for their cleaning kits and reoilers. They're washable and air cleanable, actually says it on the ad on the main page.
*shrugs*
DarkL88 I clearly remember in the instructions not to do that, I looked online as well and didnt find anything.
I even looked in my "bag of instructions" for old instructions..
If you want more air going in, you have to allow for more air going out. I had a 2001 chevy 5.3 that was getting 14 miles per gallon stock. After putting on a sceptre cold air intake (pod filter with aluminum tube) and changing the muffler to a more flow through design, I came up to 21 miles per gallon.
This of course is on an American v8 pickup truck.
Ford Motorsport (Boreham UK)used K&N type panel filter on their wrc rallycars only for wet rallies, as it stands up to moisture better than the paper filters. On all other rallies they used stock paper filters.
I would like to see the same test done with custom exhaust. Having greater airflow going in probably won't make much of a difference if you can't get improved airflow going out as well.
EvErything in Kilowatts... I feel like i'm taking thermodynamics class again. Oh wait except in thermodynamics we use both horsepower and Kilowatts because Murican Engineering
fishkluch Wait.... WHAT??? LoL
DaytonCarCare Lol I think I had a long day or something. It did remind me of thermodynamics class because of kilowatts.
DaytonCarCare MHURICA!!!
fishkluch Wake up the whole world besides USA use metric bud, get with the times and learn to convert!
CueTech Industries
Didn't you know. What the US does only counts. LoL
I fitted a pod filter to my focus st 225 and it definitely improved acceleration and it sounds loads better
I'm driving a 2003 Buick rendezvous. Last Saturday I snatched off the factory air box. Stood the ECM that was in top of the airbox on its side and zip tied it to the fender wall. It has an air inlet coming into the fender right there. I put a cone k&n filter on the end with some rigging and a part or two from home Depot. I have some reflective material I think they call it mylar or something is the same stuff used for windshield solar Shields. I got it all zip tied insecured in there so there is no rubbing. She's got a throaty sound and she cruises at 100 plus now breathing very freely. She's a sleeper right now the only thing you see on her is a k&n sticker in the back window LOL
I just put my car to all stock for more power
Miniscule power differences, Meh.
I'm *much* more interested in filtering capabilities. What's the use of sucking a tiny bit more air in if it comes with a dose of dust?
the dust will burn away in the engine, what we worry is sand
so i wasted $109 on a k&n panel filter for my 2014 vf sv hsv clubby . and the oil then fucks up the hot wire ? what about vcm air filters ? they also use a k&n style filter element thats oiled too and i had one of those for my ve ss but sold that car shortly after but i got a massive gain with the vcm when they tuned it . looks like im chucking back in my stock paper filter in the morning lol
In the early 1980's the Royal Automobile Association did tests on K&N pod filters and found that they gave, at best, a 7% in engine torque (tractive effort) on both cars and motorcycles. When you open the throttle you feel torque, not horsepower.
Back then they used brake dynos which measured only engine output torque and brake horse power was calculated from this with a bit of mathematics. (I used to run an old Thomas Salter brake dyno in 1979 in one job which read torque on a set of scales calibrated in Pounds per Foot).
Back then everything had carbs, which gave engines exactly what they demanded and required fettling to match the pod filter. On bikes the rule was to increase the main jet size by 10 points. Ironically fitting pod filters to bikes improved the miles per gallon on bikes, probally by the elimination of intake silencing and emissions control junk dragging on the induction system.
More power isnt always what everyone looks for, more cfm results in more fuel efficiency. Its also much cheaper to have a washable filter. More power in the wallet! I also think that all cars vary. These 2 cars were a bad example (sorry). The first one had a tiny motor which could barely suck air to begin with, and the second one had a turbo that was boosting/controlling the airflow to the engine. How about you slap that on a NA V6 or even better, a NA V8. I'm sure the results will differ.
***** Depends on the vehicle. Tried direct air intake on a 1998 Corolla. only gained 1hp.
Verify it with a dyno or a gtech.
The butt dyno can be tricked by loud exhaust or intake noise.
I love my gtech, cause it told me I wasted a bunch of $ on an upgrade I did and I lost like .3sec in the 1/4 consistently.
Or use an area for acceleration where you have a long stretch, look to use signposts for markers for the course and check your speed.
It's not exact but it tells ya if you are losing something.
Example : from this signpost to the next sign post I usually hit 60, now it's 55, something's wrong.
I still have the stock filter setup up on mine (xr4/st150) which is claimed to be restrictive to keep the car in a certain insurance bracket in UK, it also retains a lot of heat after a 5 hour drive the airbox is very hot. So one day I'll import an enclosed unit from uk that ford used on the higher HP models if not just to let the motor get some cooler air after a long drive.
Has anyone else noticed how EVERY mcm car number plate starts with MWM. Probably stands for "Marty With Moog"
900Yugo corollas have small engines also
Yeah wouldn't you need to adjust the air fuel ratio with each test?
Yep. The mass air flow needs to be re-tuned because of the amount of air flow the intake receives.
the plastic bit on the intake was actually more like a resonator... sorta like a plenum it provides reservoir of air to reduce noise and I believe its supposed to help with throttle response.
This was such an awesome intro.
Also would be great to know where Rake is at ... and if he still loves it!
From my experience there is a noticeable difference in selective circumstances. When going from a Box to a Cone you will normally have less flow restriction. Most factory boxes won't restrict airflow enough to impede engine performance. I have seen cases normally in "dud" cars with the upgraded engine package where the factory box simply is unable to compete. Ive also seen that a big factor of cone filters has to do with climate. In a naturally aspirated car in sub-freezing temps you will get a significantly better throttle response due to the fact that the air spends less time in the intake system therefor having less time to warm up. Now can anyone tell me why NASCAR Doesn't use box filters, or why you never see a fuel injected 454 using aftermarket boxes. Hmm i wonder if the amount of fuel it burns changes how much air it needs, and i wounder if those boxes are capable of supplying the air it would need. Also have any of you ever worked under the hood of a car with no room to begin with. If you can swap a huge bulky box for a small cone you now have made room to do something else. Now how about the fact that squirrels and chipmunks love to live in boxes and eat away at paper filters, Next thing you know you have an acorn in your manifold and fur in your cylinders.
What if you were to run on the dyno like it was a treadmill. How much power can you kick
the average human is supposedly half a hp
axeami135 its actually like 1.4
The Hardy Boys No no no, it is hard for a human to come over 1hp even, we did a test att the physics class and no one come over 1 hp so its resonable that the average human can do 0.5 hp.
even the 0.5 hp is probably not too accurate i was just stating something I was always told as a kid ahha but when you think about it our legs have a hell of a lot of torque but just no speed i suppose.
haha cool experiment
Might not give more power on a dyno, but I changed from oem to foam cone filter and back and the throttle response difference was massively noticeable and not a plecebo, I thought it was when I put it in but when I changed back I realised it made my car drive better. (audi s5 3.0 supercharged)
The surface area the restriction of the filter medium and the directness of flow make for good air flow.
If you can get the stock air filter and roll it into a tube, that is what a pod filter is with a cap directly in line with the air flow
im assuming after you guys installed the intake you reflashed your ecu to allow it to use the increase in airflow, without a reflash to let the ecu KNOW that its getting more air it wont utilize it. And even an adaptive ecu will take a while to recognize that its getting more air. Plus an intake setup isnt added for the horsepower gains, its added more for throttle response and torque so with the addition of an intake you would see the most gains with adding a bigger throttle body as well, plus the sweet whoosh noises
Given enough runtime the LTFT and BLM would automatically adjust the program for this small change
So you're telling me that you're going to be going full throttle sitting still with no wind?
some say that's why the rev-limiter exists , I step back for the inevitable smoke show because those people don't know jack lol my sisters bf never learned why I step back when he revs the engine sitting still after a cold start and he's blown oil pans..
If you are referring to the dyno runs, here's a tip: learn how a dyno works. They have huge industrial fans at the front of the car to simulate the airflow if the car were travelling at high speeds. So there won't be "no wind."
Zicrax ™ what HUGE industrial fan? I see none. I only see a 2x2 fan that they only decide to put on a over extended intake tube which barely blows. 60mph will knock things over that's not tied down.
Woah looks like we got ourselves a smartass over here who can do a quick google search on mainline dyno fans..
You were the one that stated in the first comment that there was "No wind." Now you're just undermining yourself.
I've got a VE Calais V V6 alloytec, and bought a $135 air filter K&N and put it in the car and goes alot better, has alot better pickup and is now better on fuel
one thing to consider is how quickly a filter gets dirty, it's all about surface area, I reckon a pod filter has slightly more surface area, and the internal bit will probably stay cleaner longer, the horsepower gain from a dirty filter to clean filter is quite good, not to mention the engine stuggles less.
The tests are highly flawed!
You are messing around with air intake and expect the ecu to instantly re-adjust which is unrealistic. Even if the car was restricted by air flow, it would not adjust gas intake until ecu re-adjusts.
You would have to test the power on normal filters change the filter, drive around with the car so that ecu re-adjusts the fuel mixture as the air intake sensor gives different reading and only then test the power of the car.
they do multiple runs and it does idle before it starts a run... also the ECU should make 95% of its adjustments after just 5 seconds, also no matter what even though I love CAI and Pod filters its not going to make power and if it does its gonna be very negligible and you'll never feel it... But with other supporting mods (Throttle Bodies, Exhaust, Extractors, ECU Tunes/Flash) then yes it will make a HUGE difference!
@@cheetahgaming3642 NO true they made 7hp with a CAI in a honda. That is very noticable
Usually people use them for the sound. I mean... It just gives that beautiful engine note. Just gotta love it.
But well, power loss is guaranteed. ;) At least on the smaller engine'd cars.
My car benefits from a pod filter, primarily due to the fact that it original air intake set up was a scramble of pipes before the intercooler, kinda like air intake spaghetti. With a pod filter i was able to run a single pipe directly to the intercooler.
Don't forget that a pod filter will also speed up throttle response over the factory every time. The difference is quite mind blowing how quickly the engine revs after fitting a pod or cone filter.
You know when you install an aftermarket intake you're also suppose to tune/adjust the throttle response to a higher rpm than its original place. Only then will you see the difference in performance.
unless you are running super high performance engines there wont be a difference. except for all the dirt you let in.
+Krevin Grard So many people think it will make a difference on a smaller engine lets say 1400 cc. It will suck in more air but its near the engine so it will suck in hot air which will make the engine overheat or it will just make the engine suffocate. Stock is best on smaller cars. Cones and cold air intakes are best for bigger cars which really needs a bigger air intake.
Viewing cold air intakes do work
Krevin Grard Not for smaller cars. It adds more hp on high rpm but reduces it at 2500-3500 where your pull power is....
+Viewing Cold air intake work. Look at the intake air temperature with a cold air intake VS stock airbox and it will make a difference. It won't change much on performance at stock levels, but on a fully built car, you need more air, more fuel and more exhaust. If you miss the intake part, your build will suffer.
+Krevin Grard Hmm you woulnt go and put a pod filter on a lets say bugatti ? Why because the stock filter is better in every way
MCM, I wish I stumbled across your site years ago. Good work, good presentation and the science looks good.
That said, I drive a NA, I6, FG, CC Ute. Great car. I`ve fitted Pacemaker 4500 and a KPM Street fighter. Standard exhaust. The torque just feels a bit fatter, especially down low, don't have to shuffle gears as much. Nice note (not loud) when under load.
But unless I grab a tune, I agree, little difference between standard and modded.. Unlike the old days where a bolt on could give you gains, the computer is firm on its delivery. Shame the computers are so tight on there delivery.
Thank you, you guys are awesome.
3:02 lost it :D
3 Things very wrong with this (as usual Mighty Car Mods have shown that their knowledge and experience is very limited and cut way too many parameters out of this test)
1st: The point of a pod filter is for it to be placed as far away from the engine, generally closer to the radiator/grill, as possible to increase the amount of cold air (much more so even than paper filters as there is no box so keeping it near the engine means all of the hot engine air will be going straight into it, actually lowering performance, to emphasise this look at high end pod filters which sometimes come with heat guards to limit air access from engine side).
2nd: You need to allow time for any alterations in air or oil composition to effect the performance of an engine. Very long to explain so look to fuel as a comparison. When swapping between 98oct fuel and e85 for turbo engines you need to wait until the ethanol percentage has changed before getting accurate readings of power. In an air filter situation this is similar as the computer adjusts based on a variety of factors such as pressure, which is the main difference that a pod filter makes as it increases intake. If you don't allow time for the pressure to alter the ecu operation then how do you expect the performance to change? The car hasn't even realised it has a new filter yet, derp!
3rd: These cars are unsuitable for pod filters straight up, get a turbo car with an effective oil/water cooling system and it will eradicate the problem of the hot air intake, meaning that the increase in pressure/volume of air intake will become more evident.
Source: I'm a mechanic, if you want me to provide an online source then provide a source that is better than 9 years of experience first as I don't want to hear a bunch of kids expecting justification when they don't offer any of their own for doubting.
P.S. Also, before asking for a source, use common sense and think about it, usually you can tell if something is legitimate or not by using your brain, if you are too stupid to understand my very basic and simple explanations then you have no common sense and that is not my problem, if you understand but disagree that is totally different, please have at me :)
Awesome info pretty much explains it all. However I got a beef with this video as well there is one thing that big tuners do to simulate a moving car is adding fans because when a car is moving its drawing in more fresh air into the engine bay. I don't believe won't believe and cannot believe their results. Especially since when they did the pod filter they left it in the back corner of a hot engine bay and on a crap car. Plus I run a k&n filter on my new car its gonna save me more money since I don't have to spend $25 a yr in new filters. Also no maf for me my car runs on speed density.
sadelcol theres a fan right in front of the dyno doy.... and as they said this only retaining to actual peak hp gains not powerband tuning or any specific car tuning..
Shelby Lowry didn't look like a fan to me looked like a work bench. The testing they did at times show no peak gains or overall gains. Don't need specific tuning for a filter change. Biggest thing is letting a ecu relearn what is happening. Just watch many other tuners dyno cars its way different then what that guy did. I mean it's nice people trying to help others out. I would much rather spend the money on my k&n once and clean it compared to a new filter more often. Driving around farm land dust grass etc I'd much rather wash it. They were showing some losses on there as well.
Can you guys do a MB episode on K&N panel filters where you see if they actually let firt through? Love the channel.
interestingly on an Aygo engine you get most power with the factory "restrictive" filter assembly on - but the element removed inside. The inlet is much smaller on this airbox than you would think the engine needs but it promotes laminar flow.
Cold air filters dont increase your HP? DUH!
It increases performance, ... what does that mean?
Think of it this way, run around with one nostril covered.
Its more exhausting right? Ofcourse it is.
Now if you run around with both nostril open, you wont run faster but airflow will increase which means its much more effortless to run around.
Thats what cold air does, it maximizes air flow to make it easier for your car to run at a more exhausting pace. And keep the engine block cooler.
Would I recommend acold air intake?
Depends? If its an older 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s car yes newer cars lije 2000s not really the guys that maje these cars are prepared for all this.
A cold air intake should be the last thing you modify,
After a turbo or super charge, cam shaft, rolker rockers, headers, then maybe a cold air filter.
No! There not useless
***** He doesn't know what he's talking about.
His "running around with one nostril plugged" analogy would suggest the car's air intake is clogged(at filter?), or restricted, which would inhibit HP.
***** Are you really that dumb or you playing like such?? The HP of the car is stock and it can't be changed with any filter, Though,the way your engine runs threw the RPM's depends on the air flow going into the chambers. If you run 1 km for 7 min and you smoke,imagine replacing your lungs with some huge from a none-smoker..,you still won't run like a Michael Jordan,but you will run that distance faster,right?
It's pretty clear that none of you guys have any idea what you're talking about
***** yeah, you and darth jesus are an exception to that and now I realize that is actually half of you.
Rev55 if you start wasting your time by explaining to each "mythbuster" douchebag in youtube how the things are working in the car,you wont have a free time for a drink:) I am amazed to the deep of my bones how uneducate and dumb people there is these days,despite the fact that you are few clicks away from all the info in the world is available!! There are people coming to our service with brand new cars to ask(imagine!!) and auto A/C,to ask what is the recommended temperature to set all year round,so that i set it,and they don't need to touch it anymore!! Others doesn't know where is the button for the rear window defrost..and more and more idiots with even more idiotic questions,of which i am not sure whether to answer or laugh my ass off:))) That though is not the problem,the real issue is that each one of them has the self confidence of an expert,highest than the Pope maybe,and they have ZERO tolerance to criticism too!! Anyway,cheers and Marry Christmas mate!
I love a country where it's illegal to change your air filter type.
wow! thank you for this video, soooo many questions answered for me...and I thought i was gonna be all cool and get a K&N Air Filter...Yea...screw that, Thank you MCM!!!
The oiled filter is for off road use or common gravel road travel. It is designed to capture the finest of particles at the maximum level protecting your engine longer than a stock paper filter. It is reusable and over the lifetime of a car can give you an extra 100,000 miles of use.
You can get a defect on your car for using a different air filter? Shit's far too strict in Aus... Nobody cares what filter you use here in the USA as long as it will pass emission test, and most aftermkt filters will.
Krankie V It's ridiculous.. In Victoria we are allowed to have pod filters, no idea why it's such a problem in NSW.. Australia is overly cautious with it's laws in some areas, but in turn we have a pretty safe country.
Quantametric Coluccio
In the US, you'll only get shit in California for having an aftermkt filter. I understand the need for emission control laws, but I fail to see how an upgraded air filter can increase emissions. If anything, more air would make it run cleaner.
Krankie V Yeah Australia is fucking retarded! They fine you for dumb shit like this but are happy to let abbos walk the streets in drunken stupor on alcohol that the state has funded!
But hey man........don't you dare change that FUCKING AIR FILTER!!!!!!!
here in kentucky we dont have any emmision tests. lol
+Luis Ramirez same here in oklahoma. In fact most places in the US don't test emissions. And when they do it's usually the more liberal states
Now how about using a car that sucks in a decent amount of air.
My stillen intake on my g35 has a pod filter with an air box to prevent heatsoak, best of both worlds.
this intro is so much better, should use it more
OMFG. I can't take the shear idiocy of these commenters. I'm out, waste your $100, I don't care. Dear MCM, apparently you can't fix stupid. Nice try though.
This doesn't even need to be a video, a full cold-air intake will give you increased horse power. A short ram will help out a little but as stated it's sucking in hot air from the engine and being that cold air is better running a full intake down to your front air dam is the best way. If you know anything about airflow then you'll know smooth is better. Exhaust without major kinks and bends will help air escape better. The same works with intakes. Cars are designed with those giant intakes to first reduce intake noise but also to tune the sound of the engine as odd as that sounds. Waste of a video
Too stupid to properly interpolate the simple title of the video. You are a waste of space.
You should watch their other video on cold air intake
a sealed box that draws in cool air helps a lot. I'm running aN AEM brute force. Possibly placebo, but feels better than the Volant.
I was researching pod filters to put on my shed computer to keep dust out. Now I'm worried that it might lose some GHz?