Great video - looks like you all had good fun at the meetup. It'd be interesting to see what the film can produce with a flash - maybe in a portrait setup. I might have to try it when it is back in stock! I look at the website you linked and they have some other interesting film stocks in too, so thanks for letting us know about that :)
they do have some interesting film stocks they are working hard have have plenty of different stocks which i think is really good for the film shooter community, i may have to try it out with a flash and see how it handles it
A tad too contrasty for me but I would like to see some images from it at 6 asa and stand developed in Rodinal 1+ 100 for one hour. I have gone the opposite from you in that I have bought a Leica lens and put it on a Zorki 4K, I can't wait to try that combination out and yes, keep the beard.
Garth...I liked the same image you did best. I think I would have gotten closer so that I could eliminate the trees in the background possibly. High contrast film isn't easy to shoot with. You have to pick your subjects carefully keeping in mind that it's bascially pure black & pure white. As for the scratches and water marks...by using your fingers as a squeegee, you're not only scratching your negatives but you're adding your finger oils to the mix which causes the water marks. Just hang the negatives after using the wetting agent. If you still get water marks, use a different wetting agent. I use Photography Formulary's Forma Flo and I don't have any issues, even with the hard water we've got here. I even use it on color film with excellent results!
im glad you enjoyed the video and the images and you are right shooting high contrast was more difficult than i first anticipated, as for the wetting agent ill give that a try next time I've been using the same bottle of ilford's ilfosl wetting agent next time i dev b&w i will try it without the finger method and see how it comes out. Thanks for the advice
Try: Putting some pegs on the ends of the wet film, then poor the diluted wetting agent down the film strip with the solution running into a bowl or some container. Hang to dry - do not accelerate drying by blowing air on to the emulsion, it carries dust of coarse! ;o) Works for me - been doing this since 1978. Also, Slow films are all high contrast (and very fine grain), so to obtain a flatter contrast you'll need to find a developer that will be highly diluted - it's called the "compensating effect" and will help flatten the contrast for you. Some very slow films have their own highly diluted mix, like Gigabite film (no longer avail) and Adox. You may already know some of this, hope it helps anyway. ;o)
They were almost black mate! Stand development maybe better also I am interested into knowing whats printed on the sprocket holes edge ? Does it say ISO 400 by chance? Have a look and let me know ; >
From experience, high contrast film stock works far better on larger format, 6x7 or 6x8. I love high contrast black & white but on 35mm even 25 asa is too much. The Agfa APX25 was always my favourite 120.
High contrast character aside, this is not a ISO 12 film (or our guy has metering issues). Looks like under exposed 2 -3 stops, then over developed quite a bit. I'd suggest development in a low energy, low contrast developer, like D-23. HC-110 is the opposite type of developer to produce tonal range here. This just a litho film, so trying to pull a range of tones between the black or white it's intended to produce is going to be a difficult and probably unsuccessful project.
that contrast is no joke. if you need to photograph white paper against a white backdrop the contrast might be appropriate, but its too much for my taste honestly
I checked on the date of the video just to make sure it wasn't an April fool's joke. Unfortunately, it was not. Your pictures are completely black, there's nothing to see on most of your shots. I really don't get it, what's the point ?
ISO 12 Film, photo walks with other people, and shooting pictures of trees in your local park - total waste of time and film. Sorry mate, just my opinion. I’m guessing you messed up somewhere in the developing process, and shoot iso 12 on a tripod. I don’t think you’ll be shooting iso 12 very soon, or ever again for that matter. P. S. Photo walks with other people - a load of bollocks if you ask me. Much better to go out shooting on your own, and not have some over friendly Billy No Mates trying to be your best pal.
“Shoot ISO 12 on a tripod” shows a pretty rudimentary understanding of how cameras work. A light overcast day (like the one in the video) can be shot at f/11 with the inverse of the film’s box speed (the closest we would find on the M5 is 1/15). A little bit of math would tell us that at f/2 & a 1/500th shutter speed would yield a properly exposed image, assuming the film is properly rated. Even if the overcast became heavy, we could still start that process at f/5.6 instead of f/11, and get a proper exposure at f/2 with a shutter speed of 1/125. You could very likely learn these things on those photo walks you seem to dislike so much.
Jody Kenson you try shooting Landscapes or moving subjects at f2 whilst hand holding the camera, or as your maths tells you, try shooting at f11 1/15 all on ISO 12 and then come back to me. Silly little beginner.
I strongly encourage you to rewatch the video and count how many landscapes there are. I also encourage you to see how fast the targets are moving. If you see people walking and think “I’ll never get focus at f/2”, I recommend practicing. You’ll get there one day.
uuuuh another leica m5 shooter!
thanks for sharing this with us!
leica m5 is like my favourite camera!
Great video - looks like you all had good fun at the meetup. It'd be interesting to see what the film can produce with a flash - maybe in a portrait setup. I might have to try it when it is back in stock! I look at the website you linked and they have some other interesting film stocks in too, so thanks for letting us know about that :)
they do have some interesting film stocks they are working hard have have plenty of different stocks which i think is really good for the film shooter community, i may have to try it out with a flash and see how it handles it
Thanks Murphy, i'm glad I've got your seal of approval :)
it was nice to shoot and produced some killer shots
A tad too contrasty for me but I would like to see some images from it at 6 asa and stand developed in Rodinal 1+ 100 for one hour. I have gone the opposite from you in that I have bought a Leica lens and put it on a Zorki 4K, I can't wait to try that combination out and yes, keep the beard.
Garth...I liked the same image you did best. I think I would have gotten closer so that I could eliminate the trees in the background possibly. High contrast film isn't easy to shoot with. You have to pick your subjects carefully keeping in mind that it's bascially pure black & pure white. As for the scratches and water marks...by using your fingers as a squeegee, you're not only scratching your negatives but you're adding your finger oils to the mix which causes the water marks. Just hang the negatives after using the wetting agent. If you still get water marks, use a different wetting agent. I use Photography Formulary's Forma Flo and I don't have any issues, even with the hard water we've got here. I even use it on color film with excellent results!
im glad you enjoyed the video and the images and you are right shooting high contrast was more difficult than i first anticipated, as for the wetting agent ill give that a try next time I've been using the same bottle of ilford's ilfosl wetting agent next time i dev b&w i will try it without the finger method and see how it comes out. Thanks for the advice
Try: Putting some pegs on the ends of the wet film, then poor the diluted wetting agent down the film strip with the solution running into a bowl or some container. Hang to dry - do not accelerate drying by blowing air on to the emulsion, it carries dust of coarse! ;o)
Works for me - been doing this since 1978.
Also, Slow films are all high contrast (and very fine grain), so to obtain a flatter contrast you'll need to find a developer that will be highly diluted - it's called the "compensating effect" and will help flatten the contrast for you. Some very slow films have their own highly diluted mix, like Gigabite film (no longer avail) and Adox.
You may already know some of this, hope it helps anyway. ;o)
They were almost black mate!
Stand development maybe better also I am interested into knowing whats printed on the sprocket holes edge ?
Does it say ISO 400 by chance?
Have a look and let me know ; >
From experience, high contrast film stock works far better on larger format, 6x7 or 6x8. I love high contrast black & white but on 35mm even 25 asa is too much. The Agfa APX25 was always my favourite 120.
High contrast character aside, this is not a ISO 12 film (or our guy has metering issues). Looks like under exposed 2 -3 stops, then over developed quite a bit. I'd suggest development in a low energy, low contrast developer, like D-23. HC-110 is the opposite type of developer to produce tonal range here. This just a litho film, so trying to pull a range of tones between the black or white it's intended to produce is going to be a difficult and probably unsuccessful project.
Translation: "I personally don't know so here's a stream of negative sentences"
Sorry mate but I think you messed this up
Damn if the metering was right , the photos must be awesome . But I like the chair photo
8:41 Oh my god, look at that Xtol dev time. That's terrifying!
that contrast is no joke. if you need to photograph white paper against a white backdrop the contrast might be appropriate, but its too much for my taste honestly
I checked on the date of the video just to make sure it wasn't an April fool's joke. Unfortunately, it was not.
Your pictures are completely black, there's nothing to see on most of your shots. I really don't get it, what's the point ?
Looks like a defective shoot...
Вячеслав Матушевский everyone’s a critic
ISO 12 Film, photo walks with other people, and shooting pictures of trees in your local park - total waste of time and film. Sorry mate, just my opinion.
I’m guessing you messed up somewhere in the developing process, and shoot iso 12 on a tripod. I don’t think you’ll be shooting iso 12 very soon, or ever again for that matter.
P. S. Photo walks with other people - a load of bollocks if you ask me. Much better to go out shooting on your own, and not have some over friendly Billy No Mates trying to be your best pal.
Jas Mann you seem like a pretty fun guy.
Mike Zilla Thank you 😊
“Shoot ISO 12 on a tripod” shows a pretty rudimentary understanding of how cameras work.
A light overcast day (like the one in the video) can be shot at f/11 with the inverse of the film’s box speed (the closest we would find on the M5 is 1/15).
A little bit of math would tell us that at f/2 & a 1/500th shutter speed would yield a properly exposed image, assuming the film is properly rated.
Even if the overcast became heavy, we could still start that process at f/5.6 instead of f/11, and get a proper exposure at f/2 with a shutter speed of 1/125.
You could very likely learn these things on those photo walks you seem to dislike so much.
Jody Kenson you try shooting Landscapes or moving subjects at f2 whilst hand holding the camera, or as your maths tells you, try shooting at f11 1/15 all on ISO 12 and then come back to me. Silly little beginner.
I strongly encourage you to rewatch the video and count how many landscapes there are. I also encourage you to see how fast the targets are moving.
If you see people walking and think “I’ll never get focus at f/2”, I recommend practicing. You’ll get there one day.