Reuben is on route to be the new Corey in years to come I reckon I also love how thorough John is, respect! I thought I was a bit hard on things but... better up my game!
I worked for a diverent industrial cleaning companys and some just where very straight to the point and tell you what went wrong. And others where all good and well done types bud when your where gone there told everyone how stupid you where. Yes i have my fair share of fck ups, but i rather have a "grumpy" person that is honest and respectfull than those "nice" ones that stab you in the back. So beeing hard is not bad solong it is in a respectfull and meaningfull way.
There must be many electricans out there watching this channel hoping that they will end up with an apprentice like Reuben. Fair play bud! And what a team, John makes a wonderful mentor for Reuben. Brilliant, simply brilliant!
John making sure it was dead before Reuben worked on it reminded me when I worked with a very old Electrician 60 years ago - He wanted to test if a light fitting was dead and stuck his thumb where the lamp went touching the terminals apprently his skin was so dry all he got was a tingle he said to me "DONT YOU DO THIS SON" its funny how you never forget some things.
good one John and Reuben. Glad I called the Talc the other day. When you were replacing the wire in the garage. Did you think of coming out of the bottom of the boxes and doing two back to back 90's into the consumer unit. it would have given you a little more room to work and removed that tight swanneck. All in all i love that Reuben is confident and actively learning form all his journeymen, Even an Nature segment in Honour of "Dad". "Fly away butterfly" No creatures were harmed in the making of this video.
I don't think you always have to work through problems on your own. I used to think like this, not wanting to admit when I didn't know something. But now I go by, if you don't know, ask.
@@whitecanegamer 100% agree, but what I meant was problem solve without help so you can learn without being told "check this, measure that, take that down, etc". Obviously if you are new and not confident, ask, but try to have a go yourself and build confidence.
21:25 If this is TNCS system ,shouldn't the incoming SWA earth be isolated from the CU in the shed and CU connected to the earth electrode? In case of PEN fault?
13:15 Rueben - I appreciate this, i am going to start making a constant effort to do this. btw been an electrician for 10 years and still learning every day
Use a tool belt, it’s 100% better than this method because you don’t rely on having a flat surface. You can get pouched tool belts that you can disconnect for situations that require it.I use toughbuilt.
I used to work in peoples houses as a contractor - if you get the right tool belt it wont be a problem. As I said, I use the toughbuilt cliptech system. The useful part is the clip system in which you can move the pouches around, I just put a clip on the front, one on the rear and one on the side - If i had to walk through a place with finished surfaces I just moved the tools to front and back.
John, would be really nice on board changes to add an emergency light when CU's are under stairs etc. If they lose power, the light would come on and at least that way people can check and see if the breaker tripped. 👍😎 Would be a nice value add for Artisan.
Glad I'm not the only one that does this ... people who bought my last house were completely confused by the green glow but then when demonstrated "wow, why doesn't everyone do that" ... why indeed, the cost is tiny these days!
Rewireable fuses were abused so much, even copper wire used instead of the correct fuse wire! There are still millions of these Wylex consumer units still in use today, I fitted one last around 1989 - 1990 when MCBs started to come in.
I agree, those old boards were abused. I'm just old enough to have heard about these old fuse boards. The worst I've heard someone doing with these boards is someone went as far as sticking nails and/or screws into the board to stop it from tripping. If a board keeps tripping or a fuse keeps failing, find out what's causing the fault and rectify the fault instead of creating a fire hazard!
Being old school we always left a card of fusewire next to the board , the reason they are still about speaks for itself,never had trouble with burnout's like the new board's
Another great video from John & Reuben - amazing how far Reuben has come, also great he's been taught the importance of trying to make it all look neat and tidy. I thought the reflection on apprenticeship at 16:01 was spot on too - it applied in other professions as well; learn from good teachers and build your own style taking all the things you like from each of them 👌👍
Wondering about the shots of the gas and electrical equipment so close together . We were upgrading our main panel to 200a here in California, and the electrician talked about needing to have the electrics much further away from the gas meter... And this was *outdoors*. How does the UK manage to avoid more fires... Am I missing something here?
The minimum distance under British regs is 150mm (6 inches) between gas supplies and items such as electricity meters, boards, sockets and the like. Surely even if you separate them outside there's gonna be some points inside your house where they're somewhat close together?
It's just a matter of varying regulations/codes which can be due to historic reasons and are not always rational when compared. Gas pipes don't spontaneously leak, nor do electric cables spontaneously strip themselves and short out, so unless damaged or poorly installed there is no problem.
17:45 I literally just watched ResidualCurrent do the 2 part video of him and another do one of these joints - just with 3 phase 240mm^2 and 185mm^2 cable instead.
What about mechanical protection. In a shed it chould be wired in conduit to give protection against shovels etc that are mounted on a nailalong side where the cables run?
I am electrician in Australia,was curious about what these common mistakes were going to be,am relieved to find out I have same work ethic as artisan electrical
When coring holes through brick, make a pilot hole, then core hole from each side, it won't leave a messy broken plaster wall to make good. The same with breaking exterior brick.
the bang needed to be followed by a pump of smoke and then ruben poking his head around the door with his face all sooted up and hair standing on end 🤣
Amazing work guys 👍👍👍 Reuben really has come on so much since he started. I am the same when I am dressing in data racks OCD kicks in with the straightness of cables 😂
I always wanted to be an electrician but I never knew electricians like John existed. A guy with a lot of knowledge who is very happy to share it with his apprentices. I always had the image of the guy who treated the apprentice like crap, gave them crappy jobs never wanted to teach them anything. Maybe I should have looked harder but at 40 it’s probably too late.
That scenario still exists in many companies and sadly Artisan are an exception rather than the rule. Rueben has landed himself with a good employer and will benefit greatly from the knowledge available to him. I have actually seen young apprentices given a test kit and thrown out on site with an ipad and told to churn out 10 eicrs a day as they are all the same. Firstly they have had no proper training and been shown with a quick 15 minute demonstration and secondly the companies aren’t bothered as they continue to wing it until something serious occurs at which point it becomes a blame game.
DIYer here, in my bad experience almost every electrician I got made almost fatal mistakes so I decided to go diy! last week I installed henley blocks, a new consumer unit for a tesla EV charger, migrated the aircon and shed from the old consumer unit to the new ev one, installed pen fault and the usual shibang - had I trusted the dodgy electricians I got my house would be on fire now. honestly i got so fed up from cowboy electricians ! I called your company actually to get you to do some work for me in the past but sadly you do not cover Surrey :( maybe someday!
Working with some of the old open breakers in a power room was always a challenge. Just keep your paws away from the live you will stay safe! It's strange really how the old stuff was built to last but no modern protection but I dont really recall any issues but then again lots of customer used to call it the electric light company so that was that.
Going to have to mark you down on your job John I'm afraid. You fit a nice new piece of board to fit the consumer unit to then at 25:42 you can clearly see a plug socket over hanging the edge of it. Inronic considering the title of this video! Good job on every thing else thlough 👍
@@tobyprior8839 it’s too easy to be a keyboard warrior! If A temporary socket overhanging the edge of the board a little bit is enough to make you this upset then I wish I had your life as you’ve clearly got it made
The same thing happened to me with the light fault. If the wires are joined together, do not undo them. The home owner decided not to stop at one light but to do the whole house. He did a better ,job in blowing the fuse when the light was turned on.
I see a lot of the locations your people go so can’t understand when my mother in law approached you for solar in Attleborough you said it was to far out of the way 😂 love your work
Well done Reuben. The last video I watched looked like you were on day one and looking like a rabbit in the headlights. You have come a long way. You have some top teachers mate. One tip - never hold a conductor by the bare end when on a step ladder. Don't ask me why I said this! Ho ho. Good work all round. Arty sparkys indeed.
Ive been an electrical engineer for 12 years at great places and am just moving to installation full time Instead right now and enjoying the change fav thing is everything I do is how I decide now and planned by me.
In the garage from the new consumer unit to the socket didn’t you use a piece of plastic conduit from the consumer unit and a 90° bend into the 13A socket Patris? Neater than clipping those two wires ? A 2.5 t&e and 1.0 t&e will fit into a piece of conduit :-)
As for the price of that expensive metal clad consumer unit I don’t understand why they didn’t spend a few quid on a bit of plastic trunking would’ve made the job look a whole lot more neater and professional!
@@PaulsRoadshow I get what you're saying but the light install wasn't their circuit to touch, you don't go into a job and start ripping out compliant work done by someone else just to make it look nicer unless you're asked to by the client.
Do you guys always C2 basic insulation? I will always if the accessory is accessible like a socket or switch but always struggle to code the downlights
10:23 always careful removing old fuse cartridges, check they aren't asbestos arc shields!!! Should bee fine aslong as its not disturbed or broken anyway but better safe then sorry...
Go easy with the talc powder , ask someone from occ health about its issues. Anyways love the vids , teaches me loads with my limited electrical experience .
Isn't that odd? The basic insulation is an issue above the lights, but in the shed the cables have no protection from the Socket to the sub board. The unprotected cables are more likely to cause harm, as a sharp tool or the like could fall and damage them.
Basic insulation is a single layer. The T&E cables in the shed are double insulated. Exposed basic insulation is more vulnerable to mechanical damage from screws / nails etc. The design of T&E is that the centre conductor is CPC so if there is any compromise of the cable then either live or neutral will short to earth and trip the breaker.
@ Swe3ets ... I agree with your thought process. You can run T&E clipped to a wall if it is unlikely to get damaged by impact or accident. hidden in the fabric of the building, such as in ceilings and walls it should always have an extra sheathing. It would have been easier to put the T&E in some conduit or trunking. it wouldn't have taken too long to do and would look nicer. this is one of my gripes with Artisan Electrics, they claim to be "high end" or better than the rest but still makes poor work in parts that are easy to do. generally though their work is to a pretty good standard. but then so should every Electricians work!
Mise en place.... in it's place., or something like that. Former chef, now trainee electrician. Wish my van was as organised as my kitchen workspace, but getting there! needs similar amounts of shelving and racking and we'll be good.
Don't like seeing flex used when it's not needed. If the two T&Es are long enough just put them straight into the downlighter, they normally have enough space. Means less connections hidden above the ceiling.
Another thing to look out for on the old Wylex fuses, is the little insulated disk covering the brass screw missing like on your 15 A one. Seen that so many times. Easily touched when pulling the fuse.
Interestingly enough, our old colours were a bit less logical IMHO. Green for L, red for N (yup!) and grey for PE. The one that didn't change: black for switched L (no, we don't do switched sockets, we don't do fused plugs, we don't polarize on single phase and we don't do rings.
Screwfix do thin blue insulated gloves that I always use on a board which might have anything live. Saved me a couple of times. Also keeps your hands nice and soft. 😁
Great video as always, good to see John going through stuff with Ruben. One mistake though was that the garage board should have been isolated before the cover was removed as Rueben at that point was not sure if it was live or dead and had exposed live bars at the bottom of the main switch which John correctly pointed out was a hazard with a risk of contact present. Should have checked the lighting and sockets with a tester and then isolated from the house and locked off before removing the cover which unless there was something untoward would have left the board safe for Rueben to access.
@Jordan Atrisan Electrics, just asking a bit of advice. When solar panels are fitted to a property do they power direct back into the grid or do they store the power into internal batteries? My parents have a 2 bedroom bungalow with solar panels on the roof, the panels have been there about 8 years. When the electric prices went up a few months back they had a smart meter fitted. Their bill is £160 a month for electric, they are low users as they are pensioners and sit in the garden most days, they don't have an electric vehicle. I'm wondering if the "smart" meter has been installed wrong and they are being charged by the meter for electric that the solar panels are generating aswell as being charged for just the power they're using, I'm wondering if there's a way to "turn off" the solar panels for a few days or a week to see if the meter charges are higher or lower. If the power is stopped going to the grid then the bill will rise in theory but if the cost drops then this shows they're being charged for the power the panels are generating. Can you give any advise? Thank you, Neal
Think you forgot to sleave the red cable on main swa to garage at new consumer unit main switch that's after telling your apprentice what a good job he has done
Seems overkill to have a CU in the shed for literally one socket and one light. Why bit just wire direct to the socket with an fcu for the light circuit?
What enclosure did you use for the fistful of WAGOs that Ruben was debugging in the hallway at the end, or were they just stuffed back where they came from ?
Wondering you went for such a large board in garage? On that incomer, could/would four new circuits ever be added? Why not, say, a three way with one spare?
Enjoyed the video, thank you. Does the service cablehead relocation not change the supply from TN-S (SNE) to TN-C-S (PME)? If the supply is now TN-C-S, the sizing requirement for the CPC of the distribution circuit to the garage will have changed (BS7671 Reg 544.1.1), which *_may_* require the installation of a new main bonding conductor for the distribution circuit. Was that considered in this case? Just askin'. Also, I see that John wears light eye protection all the time. A good habit that Reuben could adopt while keeping in mind that eye protection is always required when using power tools.
The down light supply cable is flex so flex going to flex ? The supply flex must be connected to a JB flex should not be used in a fixed supply installation.
@@barrieshepherd7694 Flexable cables are made of multi stranded copper cores so have more resistance than solid copper core cable 1.0,1.5,2.5, twin and earth which are used to wire a fixed installation lights socket etc, and the regs do not allow flexible cable to be used except for short connections to appliances within a fixed installation.
@@kevanswift7797 Thanks - Since making my comment I went and Googled the issue. It seems that the ban on flex was removed in the 16th Edition and flex would now be OK if allowance was made for slightly reduced current carrying capacity - i.e. good for lighting circuits. Which makes sense as many industrial and theatrical lighting installations use flex. Not good for ring mains maybe. I also remembered that old fixed wiring did not use solid cable either the cable was multi stranded copper albeit presented as a T&E flat cable..
Several times seen the incorrectly wired fuses. Had to smirk at one of the recent videos as the first set of boards I worked on were the old MEM from the 1950s / 1960s & riddled with asbestos. Also from my early days saw several instances of incorrect cables, both type and size, perished rubber and poorly terminated. A 15a radial supplying the the power to a whole house with the householder complaining of frequent tripping.
a few common problems seen many times. Just one question. if the supply has been changed to a TN-C-S then should the CU in the shed have the SWA Isolated and connected only at the house raising the question of "exporting" Earth to external buildings. which you have pointed out in other videos.
I think what’s not mentioned here is how the DNO fail to work efficiently with electricians and quiet often fail to update their equipment ! They work on +2 weeks lead time on a call out and if your changing a consumer unit and need the main fuse removed the lead time on the job makes it impossible ! I have training on pulling the main fuse from meter companies but most electricians don’t ! Legal only a DNO can remove that main fuse but we know other unauthorised electricians sometimes do! Which can be dangerous if you don’t know what your doing!
Fire rated downlights have an intumescent seal on them that gives them their fire rating so you can't say they aren't fire rated just from looking at them in this video
@@commecicommeca4489 Not in the UK. They are not called Fire hoods here they are called smoke hoods and have nothing to do with insulation either. Obviously you have fitted thousands of these GU10 down lighters and know a great deal about building regs.
@@w.o.o.d.y tbh your right im talking bollocks... They are obviously not fire rated 😂 Could be that the ceiling is suspended and therfore your not breaching the fire barrier... But still, Fire rated downlights aren't expensive anymore
So fixing other people's mistakes, do you charge the customer to redo all the work to make it look neater and more professional, or do you do it out of your own goodwill to point out the bad workmanship?
That's the reason we use twin brown cables to switches. That switch wire should have been replaced, rather that sleeving the black conductor with brown tape. AND I bet you didn't remove the switch and sleeve it there too.
That’s all well and good for new installs and rewires but not for remedial works etc so your saying you should change switch lines on every job you visit to replace or repair fittings
Great reminder to Reuben about proving dead. And John's comnment about not having an apprentice work on it without him touching it first. First class.
Fist class ? Really....touching to prove dead !!! What sort of Moron are you and him ?
Came here to make that comment... And it isn't a lack of trust in Reuben, it's a proof of duty of care.
Done the same for 35 years. Test to be dead, then touch. HV applications, or large LV busbars, I apply an earthing device. Safety paramount.
"I won't have an apprentice work on it without me touching it first". You are an A+ gentleman. Wish there were more like you in this world.
Yeah that stood out to me, along with saving the moth. Guy just seems a generally good egg 🙂
As I tell my apprentice, its not always a problem when you make a mistake, its more important you know how to fix it, well done on the board reuben
Great words!
John is just a good all round sound guy isn’t he. Great signing from Jordan !
Second that ☝🏼
Reuben is on route to be the new Corey in years to come I reckon
I also love how thorough John is, respect! I thought I was a bit hard on things but... better up my game!
I worked for a diverent industrial cleaning companys and some just where very straight to the point and tell you what went wrong.
And others where all good and well done types bud when your where gone there told everyone how stupid you where.
Yes i have my fair share of fck ups, but i rather have a "grumpy" person that is honest and respectfull than those "nice" ones that stab you in the back.
So beeing hard is not bad solong it is in a respectfull and meaningfull way.
Sorry but Ruben will never be the new Corey
I think John is a natural. really like content with him in. Same with Lee. I think John is a perfect mentor for Reuben. Nice board change Reuben
Excellent board swap, Reuben. I’m always amazed by John’s knowledge and how good he is at instructing. Great team work guys! 🇬🇧👍🏻
There must be many electricans out there watching this channel hoping that they will end up with an apprentice like Reuben. Fair play bud!
And what a team, John makes a wonderful mentor for Reuben. Brilliant, simply brilliant!
I'd say apprentices like Ruben are very rare.
John making sure it was dead before Reuben worked on it reminded me when I worked with a very old Electrician 60 years ago - He wanted to test if a light fitting was dead and stuck his thumb where the lamp went touching the terminals apprently his skin was so dry all he got was a tingle he said to me "DONT YOU DO THIS SON" its funny how you never forget some things.
I worked a guy like that , being a bit young , I put it down to no sense no feeling !
good one John and Reuben.
Glad I called the Talc the other day. When you were replacing the wire in the garage. Did you think of coming out of the bottom of the boxes and doing two back to back 90's into the consumer unit. it would have given you a little more room to work and removed that tight swanneck. All in all i love that Reuben is confident and actively learning form all his journeymen, Even an Nature segment in Honour of "Dad". "Fly away butterfly" No creatures were harmed in the making of this video.
Great work Reuben. The only way to learn is to do it yourself and work through issues/problems on your own.
I don't think you always have to work through problems on your own. I used to think like this, not wanting to admit when I didn't know something. But now I go by, if you don't know, ask.
@@whitecanegamer 100% agree, but what I meant was problem solve without help so you can learn without being told "check this, measure that, take that down, etc". Obviously if you are new and not confident, ask, but try to have a go yourself and build confidence.
21:25 If this is TNCS system ,shouldn't the incoming SWA earth be isolated from the CU in the shed and CU connected to the earth electrode? In case of PEN fault?
Is this a troll? 🤣
13:15 Rueben - I appreciate this, i am going to start making a constant effort to do this. btw been an electrician for 10 years and still learning every day
Use a tool belt, it’s 100% better than this method because you don’t rely on having a flat surface. You can get pouched tool belts that you can disconnect for situations that require it.I use toughbuilt.
@@Etacovda63 the problem with a toolbelt for me on service side is it make me to wide and i dont want to scratch a wall or hit a something
I used to work in peoples houses as a contractor - if you get the right tool belt it wont be a problem. As I said, I use the toughbuilt cliptech system. The useful part is the clip system in which you can move the pouches around, I just put a clip on the front, one on the rear and one on the side - If i had to walk through a place with finished surfaces I just moved the tools to front and back.
In future you should use flat profile glands with a double insert to install two twins into one gland. Looks better and creates a better seal.
John, would be really nice on board changes to add an emergency light when CU's are under stairs etc. If they lose power, the light would come on and at least that way people can check and see if the breaker tripped. 👍😎 Would be a nice value add for Artisan.
Glad I'm not the only one that does this ... people who bought my last house were completely confused by the green glow but then when demonstrated "wow, why doesn't everyone do that" ... why indeed, the cost is tiny these days!
Hope you did an emergency lighting cert 🤣
Good work John , teaching the right way from the start , Reuben is lucky to how a good teacher
You are a good teacher John. Ruben will be an excellent electrician 👏👏👏
Rewireable fuses were abused so much, even copper wire used instead of the correct fuse wire!
There are still millions of these Wylex consumer units still in use today, I fitted one last around 1989 - 1990 when MCBs started to come in.
I agree, those old boards were abused. I'm just old enough to have heard about these old fuse boards. The worst I've heard someone doing with these boards is someone went as far as sticking nails and/or screws into the board to stop it from tripping. If a board keeps tripping or a fuse keeps failing, find out what's causing the fault and rectify the fault instead of creating a fire hazard!
Being old school we always left a card of fusewire next to the board , the reason they are still about speaks for itself,never had trouble with burnout's like the new board's
@@tawnabandicoot6567 definitely seen nails, foil, anything to keep the power on! many house fires back in the day traced to these kinds of bodges.
Reuben is doing so well and getting better every time, good job on board change 👍👌
20:15 - 👀 Lol, that's a massive blow out! Who done that?! 😂
18:32. One of the two mentioned
Another great video from John & Reuben - amazing how far Reuben has come, also great he's been taught the importance of trying to make it all look neat and tidy. I thought the reflection on apprenticeship at 16:01 was spot on too - it applied in other professions as well; learn from good teachers and build your own style taking all the things you like from each of them 👌👍
Great spark in the making!
Great Tuition From a Sparks retired after 45 Years
Wondering about the shots of the gas and electrical equipment so close together . We were upgrading our main panel to 200a here in California, and the electrician talked about needing to have the electrics much further away from the gas meter... And this was *outdoors*. How does the UK manage to avoid more fires... Am I missing something here?
The minimum distance under British regs is 150mm (6 inches) between gas supplies and items such as electricity meters, boards, sockets and the like. Surely even if you separate them outside there's gonna be some points inside your house where they're somewhat close together?
It's just a matter of varying regulations/codes which can be due to historic reasons and are not always rational when compared. Gas pipes don't spontaneously leak, nor do electric cables spontaneously strip themselves and short out, so unless damaged or poorly installed there is no problem.
17:45 I literally just watched ResidualCurrent do the 2 part video of him and another do one of these joints - just with 3 phase 240mm^2 and 185mm^2 cable instead.
What about mechanical protection. In a shed it chould be wired in conduit to give protection against shovels etc that are mounted on a nailalong side where the cables run?
Exactly my thoughts!
Ruben’s on fire he is really good how many years is he into his apprenticeship ?
Good work Reuben!
I am electrician in Australia,was curious about what these common mistakes were going to be,am relieved to find out I have same work ethic as artisan electrical
When coring holes through brick, make a pilot hole, then core hole from each side, it won't leave a messy broken plaster wall to make good. The same with breaking exterior brick.
the bang needed to be followed by a pump of smoke and then ruben poking his head around the door with his face all sooted up and hair standing on end 🤣
😂😂
Amazing work guys 👍👍👍 Reuben really has come on so much since he started. I am the same when I am dressing in data racks OCD kicks in with the straightness of cables 😂
Nice to see the testing done well. We as an industry must drive out the drive by guys.
Great video guys 😎
I always wanted to be an electrician but I never knew electricians like John existed. A guy with a lot of knowledge who is very happy to share it with his apprentices. I always had the image of the guy who treated the apprentice like crap, gave them crappy jobs never wanted to teach them anything. Maybe I should have looked harder but at 40 it’s probably too late.
That scenario still exists in many companies and sadly Artisan are an exception rather than the rule. Rueben has landed himself with a good employer and will benefit greatly from the knowledge available to him.
I have actually seen young apprentices given a test kit and thrown out on site with an ipad and told to churn out 10 eicrs a day as they are all the same. Firstly they have had no proper training and been shown with a quick 15 minute demonstration and secondly the companies aren’t bothered as they continue to wing it until something serious occurs at which point it becomes a blame game.
He’s amazing!
DIYer here, in my bad experience almost every electrician I got made almost fatal mistakes so I decided to go diy! last week I installed henley blocks, a new consumer unit for a tesla EV charger, migrated the aircon and shed from the old consumer unit to the new ev one, installed pen fault and the usual shibang - had I trusted the dodgy electricians I got my house would be on fire now. honestly i got so fed up from cowboy electricians ! I called your company actually to get you to do some work for me in the past but sadly you do not cover Surrey :( maybe someday!
Crazy these people are so called ‘qualified’
25:00 its so much easier in systems where there is only the three conductors coming out of the ceiling....
In Australia it is mandatory that an apprentice is continuously supervised not just checked on every now and then
Well done Reuben & John lovely work
Working with some of the old open breakers in a power room was always a challenge. Just keep your paws away from the live you will stay safe! It's strange really how the old stuff was built to last but no modern protection but I dont really recall any issues but then again lots of customer used to call it the electric light company so that was that.
I think "efficiency" was the word he wanted instead of shortcut, learning good ways to do things
interesting job , John and Reuben
On the new tails you have ran in, you have used all round band. Can this be done as I thought it had to be non-conductive clips?
With rubber nails?!
Another point to mention is too check the installation of the smart meter and isolation switch.
Going to have to mark you down on your job John I'm afraid.
You fit a nice new piece of board to fit the consumer unit to then at 25:42 you can clearly see a plug socket over hanging the edge of it.
Inronic considering the title of this video!
Good job on every thing else thlough 👍
Not really an issue though is it, that was probably a temporary socket
@@krissybufton I guess you don't take pride in your work then?
@@tobyprior8839 it’s too easy to be a keyboard warrior! If A temporary socket overhanging the edge of the board a little bit is enough to make you this upset then I wish I had your life as you’ve clearly got it made
@@krissybufton your making a lot of assumptions. If my answers frighten then then stop asking scary questions!
@@tobyprior8839 you’re a barrel of laughs! I bet trades add a special tax when doing jobs for you
The same thing happened to me with the light fault. If the wires are joined together, do not undo them. The home owner decided not to stop at one light but to do the whole house. He did a better ,job in blowing the fuse when the light was turned on.
I see a lot of the locations your people go so can’t understand when my mother in law approached you for solar in Attleborough you said it was to far out of the way 😂 love your work
Well done Reuben. The last video I watched looked like you were on day one and looking like a rabbit in the headlights. You have come a long way. You have some top teachers mate. One tip - never hold a conductor by the bare end when on a step ladder. Don't ask me why I said this! Ho ho. Good work all round. Arty sparkys indeed.
Ive been an electrical engineer for 12 years at great places and am just moving to installation full time Instead right now and enjoying the change fav thing is everything I do is how I decide now and planned by me.
In the garage from the new consumer unit to the socket didn’t you use a piece of plastic conduit from the consumer unit and a 90° bend into the 13A socket Patris? Neater than clipping those two wires ? A 2.5 t&e and 1.0 t&e will fit into a piece of conduit :-)
Looks like the wiring to the rest of the garage is just clipped direct, doesn't seem much point doing a conduit run for just the first legs
@@THECALLOF241 it’s only one socket and one light? I would have at least put a vertical piece up from that light switch also for added protection !
As for the price of that expensive metal clad consumer unit I don’t understand why they didn’t spend a few quid on a bit of plastic trunking would’ve made the job look a whole lot more neater and professional!
@@PaulsRoadshow I get what you're saying but the light install wasn't their circuit to touch, you don't go into a job and start ripping out compliant work done by someone else just to make it look nicer unless you're asked to by the client.
@@THECALLOF241 very true
Do you guys always C2 basic insulation? I will always if the accessory is accessible like a socket or switch but always struggle to code the downlights
I preferred installation over testing. Testing can be very time-consuming.
10:23 always careful removing old fuse cartridges, check they aren't asbestos arc shields!!! Should bee fine aslong as its not disturbed or broken anyway but better safe then sorry...
Go easy with the talc powder , ask someone from occ health about its issues. Anyways love the vids , teaches me loads with my limited electrical experience .
Really like John how he teaches top tradie 👍
Isn't that odd? The basic insulation is an issue above the lights, but in the shed the cables have no protection from the Socket to the sub board. The unprotected cables are more likely to cause harm, as a sharp tool or the like could fall and damage them.
Basic insulation is a single layer. The T&E cables in the shed are double insulated. Exposed basic insulation is more vulnerable to mechanical damage from screws / nails etc. The design of T&E is that the centre conductor is CPC so if there is any compromise of the cable then either live or neutral will short to earth and trip the breaker.
@ Swe3ets ... I agree with your thought process. You can run T&E clipped to a wall if it is unlikely to get damaged by impact or accident. hidden in the fabric of the building, such as in ceilings and walls it should always have an extra sheathing. It would have been easier to put the T&E in some conduit or trunking. it wouldn't have taken too long to do and would look nicer. this is one of my gripes with Artisan Electrics, they claim to be "high end" or better than the rest but still makes poor work in parts that are easy to do. generally though their work is to a pretty good standard. but then so should every Electricians work!
Great Content guys , well done Reuben on the Board change A1 ⚡️👊
What Box was used for the Wagos in the ceiling?
Mise en place.... in it's place., or something like that. Former chef, now trainee electrician. Wish my van was as organised as my kitchen workspace, but getting there! needs similar amounts of shelving and racking and we'll be good.
Great video both 👍
Love this video!
25:42 shouldn't the cable's main insulation lead all the way into the consumer unit? I just ask because that's how I was taught in Eastern Europe.
Standard practice with the 15A fuse wire in the carrier...ALWAYS the 5A wire is missing from the card 🤣
Don't like seeing flex used when it's not needed. If the two T&Es are long enough just put them straight into the downlighter, they normally have enough space. Means less connections hidden above the ceiling.
Another thing to look out for on the old Wylex fuses, is the little insulated disk covering the brass screw missing like on your 15 A one. Seen that so many times. Easily touched when pulling the fuse.
What was the reason for the head to be moved outside?
Interestingly enough, our old colours were a bit less logical IMHO. Green for L, red for N (yup!) and grey for PE. The one that didn't change: black for switched L (no, we don't do switched sockets, we don't do fused plugs, we don't polarize on single phase and we don't do rings.
Screwfix do thin blue insulated gloves that I always use on a board which might have anything live. Saved me a couple of times. Also keeps your hands nice and soft. 😁
My Favorite part Ohms Law,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Going Home the best law.
Love the blowout at 22:04 so much for OCD
😩
Great job, but no surge on shed DB ?
Should the new fuse board be mounted on a non flammable surface and not on wood?
Reuben became a master electrician!
your material looks way more fun than ours in the states lol
Great video as always, good to see John going through stuff with Ruben. One mistake though was that the garage board should have been isolated before the cover was removed as Rueben at that point was not sure if it was live or dead and had exposed live bars at the bottom of the main switch which John correctly pointed out was a hazard with a risk of contact present. Should have checked the lighting and sockets with a tester and then isolated from the house and locked off before removing the cover which unless there was something untoward would have left the board safe for Rueben to access.
Never seen these battery powered meter testing devices. How are they called?
without a doubt i would know the back of my hand, tho MANY have seen it up close also, briefly however
Looks a nice neat job
Thanks Ed!
Im old enough to know even older colours which were Red,White,Blue as i was an industrial sparks for 50 years and retired in October 2020
No way
have you ever thought about taking on foreign apprentices. if so I am interested in doing an apprenticeship in the UK
@Jordan Atrisan Electrics, just asking a bit of advice.
When solar panels are fitted to a property do they power direct back into the grid or do they store the power into internal batteries?
My parents have a 2 bedroom bungalow with solar panels on the roof, the panels have been there about 8 years. When the electric prices went up a few months back they had a smart meter fitted. Their bill is £160 a month for electric, they are low users as they are pensioners and sit in the garden most days, they don't have an electric vehicle. I'm wondering if the "smart" meter has been installed wrong and they are being charged by the meter for electric that the solar panels are generating aswell as being charged for just the power they're using, I'm wondering if there's a way to "turn off" the solar panels for a few days or a week to see if the meter charges are higher or lower. If the power is stopped going to the grid then the bill will rise in theory but if the cost drops then this shows they're being charged for the power the panels are generating. Can you give any advise?
Thank you,
Neal
Any excess power not consumed by the property will feed back to the grid. There will only be batteries of the installation was specified with them.
17:57 is there minimum depth for thoise to be put in?
Great video
No they DID NOT make it a PME system the PME is external to the cut out. They supplied a TN-C-S supply.
Think you forgot to sleave the red cable on main swa to garage at new consumer unit main switch that's after telling your apprentice what a good job he has done
Seems overkill to have a CU in the shed for literally one socket and one light. Why bit just wire direct to the socket with an fcu for the light circuit?
Are you allowed to put 2 cables in 1 cablegland, gableglands are made for 1 cable only?
No
What enclosure did you use for the fistful of WAGOs that Ruben was debugging in the hallway at the end, or were they just stuffed back where they came from ?
Wagobox ted
@@lewis94uk Ted ? Is that a typo?
No a good job at all rough .
Can see the camera man at 18:03 👍🏼
😎
Wondering you went for such a large board in garage? On that incomer, could/would four new circuits ever be added? Why not, say, a three way with one spare?
Because those fuseboxes are very good value for money about £50 for that size consumer unit.
@@heladas90 a 4-way is under £30.
Enjoyed the video, thank you. Does the service cablehead relocation not change the supply from TN-S (SNE) to TN-C-S (PME)? If the supply is now TN-C-S, the sizing requirement for the CPC of the distribution circuit to the garage will have changed (BS7671 Reg 544.1.1), which *_may_* require the installation of a new main bonding conductor for the distribution circuit. Was that considered in this case? Just askin'.
Also, I see that John wears light eye protection all the time. A good habit that Reuben could adopt while keeping in mind that eye protection is always required when using power tools.
What bonding did you see in the shed?
The down light supply cable is flex so flex going to flex ? The supply flex must be connected to a JB flex should not be used in a fixed supply installation.
As a layman I hear this but don't understand why flex is not allowed (if indeed it is taboo). What makes flex in an installation less safe that cable?
@@barrieshepherd7694 Flexable cables are made of multi stranded copper cores so have more resistance than solid copper core cable 1.0,1.5,2.5, twin and earth which are used to wire a fixed installation lights socket etc, and the regs do not allow flexible cable to be used except for short connections to appliances within a fixed installation.
@@kevanswift7797 Thanks - Since making my comment I went and Googled the issue. It seems that the ban on flex was removed in the 16th Edition and flex would now be OK if allowance was made for slightly reduced current carrying capacity - i.e. good for lighting circuits. Which makes sense as many industrial and theatrical lighting installations use flex. Not good for ring mains maybe. I also remembered that old fixed wiring did not use solid cable either the cable was multi stranded copper albeit presented as a T&E flat cable..
multi stranded cables have more resistance than solid ? so explain why Tri-Rated cables are used a lot more now for Tails !@@kevanswift7797
How many of these mistakes do you see on a day to day basis?
Several times seen the incorrectly wired fuses. Had to smirk at one of the recent videos as the first set of boards I worked on were the old MEM from the 1950s / 1960s & riddled with asbestos.
Also from my early days saw several instances of incorrect cables, both type and size, perished rubber and poorly terminated. A 15a radial supplying the the power to a whole house with the householder complaining of frequent tripping.
a few common problems seen many times. Just one question. if the supply has been changed to a TN-C-S then should the CU in the shed have the SWA Isolated and connected only at the house raising the question of "exporting" Earth to external buildings. which you have pointed out in other videos.
Regarding the sleeving on the light fitting showing , how dangerous is that ? Or is it just visually bad?
Basic insulation should not be visible outside of an enclosure.
@@persona250 how about being concealed in a ceiling void?
Could it be a dangerous situation?
@@merlin5476 yes a tradesman could grab it rooting around .
I think what’s not mentioned here is how the DNO fail to work efficiently with electricians and quiet often fail to update their equipment ! They work on +2 weeks lead time on a call out and if your changing a consumer unit and need the main fuse removed the lead time on the job makes it impossible ! I have training on pulling the main fuse from meter companies but most electricians don’t ! Legal only a DNO can remove that main fuse but we know other unauthorised electricians sometimes do! Which can be dangerous if you don’t know what your doing!
Hmm... yep, I made a few of those mistakes over the years. I've started fixing the most recent ones now though. Knowledge is definitely power!
Certainly is!
Mmmm rewiring downlights when there is no smoke hood at the fitting, it's not a fire rated fitting and there is a bedroom above..nice..
Fire rated downlights have an intumescent seal on them that gives them their fire rating so you can't say they aren't fire rated just from looking at them in this video
@@commecicommeca4489 Not in the UK. They are not called Fire hoods here they are called smoke hoods and have nothing to do with insulation either. Obviously you have fitted thousands of these GU10 down lighters and know a great deal about building regs.
@@w.o.o.d.y tbh your right im talking bollocks...
They are obviously not fire rated 😂
Could be that the ceiling is suspended and therfore your not breaching the fire barrier... But still,
Fire rated downlights aren't expensive anymore
Got a Electrical problem related questions. Where can I contact you guys.
Miss the old colours of red,yellow & blue, can never understand why having harmonised colours introduced in 2004
Good video
So fixing other people's mistakes, do you charge the customer to redo all the work to make it look neater and more professional, or do you do it out of your own goodwill to point out the bad workmanship?
That's the reason we use twin brown cables to switches. That switch wire should have been replaced, rather that sleeving the black conductor with brown tape. AND I bet you didn't remove the switch and sleeve it there too.
That’s all well and good for new installs and rewires but not for remedial works etc so your saying you should change switch lines on every job you visit to replace or repair fittings