Hi Max. This is the perfect 3 part series for me. I have a need to turn a smaller 3 step pulley in aluminium. Now I know how to approach it. Many, many thanks. Andrew in the UK. 👏👏👍😀
Thanks Max a few more tips added, really appreciate some of those notes from you guys that have been doing this for a while, what seems natural or obvious is not so much for us newbies. The carriage wear note doing a spring pass great info.
Great job on the stepped V-Pulley Max 👍 the tool you made did an awesome job and left a fantastic finish on the pulley grooves 👍 good tip too on not to take a cut out with a boring bar 😎👍👍👍
Fun project to watch. Your homemade tools are amazingly sharp. I was really impressed at how nice a finish you were getting from a hand fed compound. Cheers Max.
Gday Max, you can’t ask for much better with the bore, the idea of a dro is something that’s on the cards here to do, big time saver, have a great weekend mate, cheers
Looking good, Max! You remind me of one of my first mentors when I first started welding. He had very much the same demeanor you do when you break out those teaching moments 😊. Like you, he also taught me a great deal. Thanks for the vid! Cheers! 😁
Thanks . The only cnc machines i have used were at trade school back in the mid 1980's , they had computer punch cards that you typed with a special type writer & then inserted the card into the machine ! Cheers .
friend max ... the knowledge of the old school is still very necessary no matter how much cnc they come to use ... the parts and what to fix them ... position them and a long etc of operations that the operator must know and follow to the letter ... and oh that's where the old school knows all the lessons .. a greeting and good health @@swanvalleymachineshop
max, i was glad to see you do a "one chucking operation" on this part. so many of the people on utube take things out of the chuck/vise when they dont have to. then they spend 3/4 of their time readjusting the part! bravo poppy's workshop says HI
For a one off part Poppy , that's the best way to do it . If i had several to do in a centre lathe , they would be in and out several times using block turning methods & soft jaws bored to the correct size . Cheers .
Excellent work Max, not easy without a DRO, lots of opportunities for balls ups reading off dials but you have made a great job of keeping it all together. Well done. Cheers, Jon
That's a nice looking pulley Max. The western world electric motor industry must have went through all kinds of mergers before everything starting being made in China. You said your motor was a Brook Crompton Betts (made in Australia), I have a Parkinson-Crompton motor on my Fobco 10-eight drill press (Made in England) and my Elliot Shaper has a Brook motor on it (also made in England). My other English motor is an English Electric on my Broadbent Schofield lathe. These three motors are by far the smoothest running of all the motors I have and the Brook is the smoothest of them all. Ken
The English made some of the best products back in the day compared to the cheap & nasty chinese garbage that's out now . I wonder what their submarines are like !!! Cheers Ken .
I love making pulleys. Nice job as usual. I don’t comment much because I watch you on roku on my tv in the garage. BTW an old worn out shaft is never good! Ha
G'day Max, seriously good work my mate. Best thing I did was fitting the dro to mine, I still don't quite trust it tho lol The tool grinder is a god send, I see you making some wonderful tooling with it Thank you for sharing 👍
G’day Max. Good tutorial. I appreciate your efforts as it’s a lot less stressful watching you than making one myself although I may be up for three 2 step pulleys myself soon:-( Cheers Peter
My lathes don't have graduations all the way around either, my small lathe has a mark on the back of the compound so i can always use the graduations even when it's past the front reference mark and with my big lathe i just stamped in my own marks so i had references marks to use the graduations at any position.. saves cracking out the protractor and accurate enough for pulleys etc
Hi Max, I have always machined my A, B, C section pulleys at an included angle of 40 degrees, hope I got it right. Considering a DRO for my Lathe but the problem is I will lose tailstock travel up to the saddle with the scale mounted on the tailstock end.
Hi Max, went to the Fenner website, 32 degrees under 1 1/2 inches , 38 degrees larger than 1 1/2 inches, learn something everyday. Understand the wedging action now to stop slip!
You will seriously not know your self with a DRO fitted to your lathe Max. I've got metal hoses, plastic clip together copper pipe and hinged sections of pipe styles of coolant gizmos. They have All got there advantages, aaaand disadvantages!
I’d like to see how you have the dial gauge on there , I have an AL960b and it vibrates the dial way more than yours but I’m using a Noga and suspect that probably isn’t rigid at all
Always amuses me when someone drills a hole through something in the lathe then reams it only to find out the hole no longer runs true , some go to the extent of skimming with a boring bar after drilling then ream it and I think to myself WTF??? You already have the boring bar set up just bore it to size and be bloody done with it !
@@swanvalleymachineshop True and I have used a few machines that were so flogged out that on longer sections I had to finish every diameter with a file then emery cloth to take the taper out ! On those machines the compound was dialled in to machine short journals and bores and it was punishable by death to move it 🤣. So happy those days are gone I can tell ya 🤣
Hi Max. This is the perfect 3 part series for me. I have a need to turn a smaller 3 step pulley in aluminium. Now I know how to approach it. Many, many thanks. Andrew in the UK. 👏👏👍😀
No worries 👍
Max thanks for that little pearl of wisdom about spring cuts. I did not know that.👍🍺
No worries . Cheers .
Thanks Max a few more tips added, really appreciate some of those notes from you guys that have been doing this for a while, what seems natural or obvious is not so much for us newbies. The carriage wear note doing a spring pass great info.
Thanks Mate .
Thanks for the heads up on the spring pass direction. I never considered carriage wear in the spring pass depth of cut. Cheers from West Virginia!
Thanks Bill .
Great job on the stepped V-Pulley Max 👍 the tool you made did an awesome job and left a fantastic finish on the pulley grooves 👍 good tip too on not to take a cut out with a boring bar 😎👍👍👍
Thanks John . Cheers .
Fun project to watch. Your homemade tools are amazingly sharp. I was really impressed at how nice a finish you were getting from a hand fed compound. Cheers Max.
Thanks Rob .
👍😎👍 …. Thanks for the whole ride that clearly demonstrates that precision takes time …… there are no shortcuts …… measure, measure, repeat 🤘
Cheers Mate .
Gday Max, you can’t ask for much better with the bore, the idea of a dro is something that’s on the cards here to do, big time saver, have a great weekend mate, cheers
Cheers Matty . It will be a while before i can afford one , as i need a hardness tester first !
Looking good, Max! You remind me of one of my first mentors when I first started welding. He had very much the same demeanor you do when you break out those teaching moments 😊. Like you, he also taught me a great deal. Thanks for the vid! Cheers! 😁
Thanks Chris . Cheers .
I make a pulley every now and then but I'd rather watch you make one, it's alot less stressful. Lol, great video max.
Stress relief !!!
Most enjoyable Max watching you check each finished dimension very carefully numerous times by feel along with some more good useful tips. Tony
Thanks Tony . Check & double check is quicker than what you have to do if you over bore the hole ! Cheers .
@@swanvalleymachineshop lol Max got the tee shirt.
Tw****ng about with knobs and dials. Pretty much sums up my time in the shed.
Fantastic channel max 👍
Thanks Mate .
good job max..the pure art machining off old school
Thanks . The only cnc machines i have used were at trade school back in the mid 1980's , they had computer punch cards that you typed with a special type writer & then inserted the card into the machine ! Cheers .
friend max ... the knowledge of the old school is still very necessary no matter how much cnc they come to use ... the parts and what to fix them ... position them and a long etc of operations that the operator must know and follow to the letter ... and oh that's where the old school knows all the lessons .. a greeting and good health @@swanvalleymachineshop
@@TrPrecisionMachining Thanks .
Thanks Max, great stuff as always!
All the best!
Eddie
Cheers Eddie .
Always a pleasure to watch.
Thanks .
max, i was glad to see you do a "one chucking operation" on this part. so many of the people on utube take things out of the chuck/vise when they dont have to. then they spend 3/4 of their time readjusting the part! bravo poppy's workshop says HI
For a one off part Poppy , that's the best way to do it . If i had several to do in a centre lathe , they would be in and out several times using block turning methods & soft jaws bored to the correct size . Cheers .
Hi Max.
Why didn't you plunge in with the 3.63 angle cut ?
That tool was working so well.
Hi . I did not plunge cut the angles like with cast iron so there would be minimal chance of any aluminium build up on the tool damaging the finish .
G'day Max. Very nice piece of machining, & the broaching insert fits snug as a bug in a rug 😇😇😇 . Waiting for next Installment
Cheers Ted . I still have to drop in & see how your new lathe is going when i have time !
@@swanvalleymachineshop anytime Max ... lol you will have to show me how to use it ... lol .. maybe some of your Expertise will rub off on me ... lol
Excellent work Max, not easy without a DRO, lots of opportunities for balls ups reading off dials but you have made a great job of keeping it all together. Well done. Cheers, Jon
Cheers Jon . One day i will get one !
Hello Max,
Very nice work... See you on the next one...
Cheers.
Paul,,
Thanks Paul .
Max enjoyed the video. Thanks for the tip on the spring pass! Curious about the accuracy of that reamer... Chears!
Thanks . I will video doing a test hole with it .
That's a nice looking pulley Max. The western world electric motor industry must have went through all kinds of mergers before everything starting being made in China. You said your motor was a Brook Crompton Betts (made in Australia), I have a Parkinson-Crompton motor on my Fobco 10-eight drill press (Made in England) and my Elliot Shaper has a Brook motor on it (also made in England). My other English motor is an English Electric on my Broadbent Schofield lathe. These three motors are by far the smoothest running of all the motors I have and the Brook is the smoothest of them all. Ken
@hmw....
Good to hear you, I'm awaiting news of that big horizontal borer being ready for work.
Cheers.
The English made some of the best products back in the day compared to the cheap & nasty chinese garbage that's out now . I wonder what their submarines are like !!!
Cheers Ken .
Good job sir! I really enjoyed seeing this one. You are a very talented machinist.
Thanks .
I love making pulleys. Nice job as usual. I don’t comment much because I watch you on roku on my tv in the garage. BTW an old worn out shaft is never good! Ha
Thanks . 👍
Thanks Max! Looking good!!!
Cheers Sam .
G'day Max, seriously good work my mate.
Best thing I did was fitting the dro to mine, I still don't quite trust it tho lol
The tool grinder is a god send, I see you making some wonderful tooling with it
Thank you for sharing 👍
Cheers Ralfy . The tool grinder will be great when i get it fully set up . Cheers .
Nice free machining alloy .. another good job
It was nice stuff to work with .
G’day Max. Good tutorial. I appreciate your efforts as it’s a lot less stressful watching you than making one myself although I may be up for three 2 step pulleys myself soon:-(
Cheers
Peter
Cheers Peter .
always informative max cheers
Thanks .
My lathes don't have graduations all the way around either, my small lathe has a mark on the back of the compound so i can always use the graduations even when it's past the front reference mark and with my big lathe i just stamped in my own marks so i had references marks to use the graduations at any position.. saves cracking out the protractor and accurate enough for pulleys etc
Yes , that's close enough for most jobs . Cheers .
Very nice work
Thanks Adam .
On the home stretch. Those white erase boards are super handy. The one I got from Aaron I use at the mill.
Saves drawing on the wall !!!
@@swanvalleymachineshop True!
Would you do anything differently if you were making a cast iron version?
Yes , i would use a form tool .
Love watching you work the tolerances. Thanks for the look.
Thanks John .
Hi Max, I have always machined my A, B, C section pulleys at an included angle of 40 degrees, hope I got it right.
Considering a DRO for my Lathe but the problem is I will lose tailstock travel up to the saddle with the scale mounted on the tailstock end.
Hi Max, went to the Fenner website, 32 degrees under 1 1/2 inches , 38 degrees larger than 1 1/2 inches, learn something everyday.
Understand the wedging action now to stop slip!
@@willemvantsant5105 Yes , different angles according to the diameters .
You will seriously not know your self with a DRO fitted to your lathe Max.
I've got metal hoses, plastic clip together copper pipe and hinged sections of pipe styles of coolant gizmos.
They have All got there advantages, aaaand disadvantages!
They do . The old English made telescopic ones are amongst the best as well ! Cheers .
I must be strange, I have only a thread chart, no calendar girl. I'll have to thread a calendar girl someday, always been a do-it-yourselfer...
Lol , Cheers !
I’d like to see how you have the dial gauge on there , I have an AL960b and it vibrates the dial way more than yours but I’m using a Noga and suspect that probably isn’t rigid at all
A Noga , i should think would have no troubles if it is a genuine one . I have never used a Noga though . Check to make sure the base has no burr's .
@@swanvalleymachineshop thanks Max I will check it out cheers
Thanks Max.
Thanks Don .
Always amuses me when someone drills a hole through something in the lathe then reams it only to find out the hole no longer runs true , some go to the extent of skimming with a boring bar after drilling then ream it and I think to myself WTF??? You already have the boring bar set up just bore it to size and be bloody done with it !
Flash Max makes it look way to easy..
That's right Ian . But if your lathe has a lot of wear in it , boring then reaming is the only way to get a parallel hole . Cheers .
@@swanvalleymachineshop
True and I have used a few machines that were so flogged out that on longer sections I had to finish every diameter with a file then emery cloth to take the taper out ! On those machines the compound was dialled in to machine short journals and bores and it was punishable by death to move it 🤣. So happy those days are gone I can tell ya 🤣
@@ianbertenshaw4350 I have used some where i have had to adjust the cross slide a thou every couple of inches whils't taking cuts !
👍👌
Thanks .