Dang... Now I'm thinking i should record and post videos of my current CRV project. People comment with good suggestions! I've been away from the Honda scene for a while and I'm learning, the hard way, about k series specifics. Currently stuck getting my shifter cables to work properly in my custom tranny (swapped 6spd gearset from a JDM 6spd CRV tranny to my USDM 5spd case). The shifter doesnt center perfectly and the reverse lockout solenoid doesnt let me shift into 5th when engaged. Lol. 🤦♂️ Anyway, keep up the good work! I'm really glad you got the sensors resolved. To me it sounds like the rest is up to tuning, especially considering the short term fuel trim adjustment values. Got my fingers crossed for you! You deserve to finally have this thing on the road, running well.
its stalling because the fueling needs tuned. the closed loop fuel control is good for slow transient throttle and boost but will not be able to react fast enough for tip in adjustments. the map just needs tuned and tip in transient throttle or accel enrichment needs tuned after and it should stop stalling
I hear you. I'm hoping that the tuner couldn't do much previously because the car wasn't "ready " to be tuned. Now that all the sensors are working and I fix my fuel pressure issue, I'm willing to give the tuner the benefit of the doubt .
Hi! In any case, before you'll buy a new pump, check your fuel pressure regulator as well. From my experience, aftermarket regulators might not have the hardened valve face and seat inside just like the oem regulators have and they just loose the prime much faster. Just trying to reduce unnecesary expenses if possible 😀 otherwise, fabulous work 🙂
I already have the new pump, I've had it for over a month already but that's a good suggestion. It didn't occur to me to check the FPR , I checked the injectors already to make sure it wasn't a leaking injector . I'll need to find a way to block off the return port on the FPR to check it. The reason why I believe it's the pump is because the system would hold fuel pressure for 2-3 days until one day I ran the pump dry not knowing there wasn't any more fuel in the tank. That same day that I ran the pump dry is when I noticed the pressure wasn't holding anymore.
I feel like we're so close to that happening! I need to stop being lazy n change that fuel pump! Why didn't honda just make a proper access hole for the pump ? Lol
@@themechanic6117 My first time ever replacing a fuel pump was on my '90 CRX Si. It was in the dead of winter, freezing outside, I had a sinus infection, and when I dropped the gas tank I got fuel all over me and the whole garage stunk like fuel. It was cramped, dark, and miserable - I swear I could smell gas in my brain for weeks. Lol. Ever since then I hated the smell of gasoline. Horrible design, Honda. You blew it. 😅
I had a Skunk on the Miata for awhile but wasn't overly impressed. I wish I still had it though, they're getting very rare for the 1.6l Miata and prices have gone stupid. I'm dying to see the first real drive in it without any serious issues
Yeah change the fuel pump. Maybe stick a camera in front of the throttle body and see what it's doing while using the gas pedal vs using your hands to open and close it. You may also want to go through all the wire harness "codes" and make sure as many as possible are matched up in your software. I saw sp 1 and 2 were on your wire harness list but not designated to anything. I would screen record or film your screen just incase you make a mistake you would know how to undo it.
I really enjoy your videos. I was looking at the throttle plate in the video and noticed something and wanted to ask about it. The throttle cable doesn't look to be sitting in the black pulley correctly. It's under it and not in the groove... Am I mistaken?
Hey thanks for the response. Definitely enjoy your videos as well as knowledge. I'm also an auto technician and hold the CR-X in high regard. A Rex in yellow is the dream. Keep up with the great content..
Mainly space constraints. It looked like to many things would be crammed into that area. I like the idea of easy access to the throttle body. To me the trade off wasn't worth it
I just didn't install or plan to use a idle air control. Looking back at it I should have implemented it from the beginning. I'm sure it would benefit me to run one.
I thought I was going to have to do that but I'm glad I got it to idle between 900- 1k rpm . I can deal with that. Hopefully it breaks in over time and it won't be sticky anymore
Good stuff Jonathan!!
Thank you 💪
Your series is very helpful for those who K swap the EF platform. Including myself.
Thank you 💪 learning as I go
My Skunk2 70mm tb would stick when new. Once it was broken in it stopped doing it 👍
You're in good hands with Mikey tuning it 💯
@@mcef9117 good to hear , once I get the new pump installed it'll be ready for the tuner 💪
Good find on the throttle plate issue....
Another thing checked off the list. I'm dragging on changing the fuel pump.... I'm lazy 🤣
Love the episodes u got it in the bag mechanic
Thank you 💪
Dang... Now I'm thinking i should record and post videos of my current CRV project. People comment with good suggestions! I've been away from the Honda scene for a while and I'm learning, the hard way, about k series specifics.
Currently stuck getting my shifter cables to work properly in my custom tranny (swapped 6spd gearset from a JDM 6spd CRV tranny to my USDM 5spd case). The shifter doesnt center perfectly and the reverse lockout solenoid doesnt let me shift into 5th when engaged. Lol. 🤦♂️
Anyway, keep up the good work! I'm really glad you got the sensors resolved. To me it sounds like the rest is up to tuning, especially considering the short term fuel trim adjustment values.
Got my fingers crossed for you! You deserve to finally have this thing on the road, running well.
its stalling because the fueling needs tuned. the closed loop fuel control is good for slow transient throttle and boost but will not be able to react fast enough for tip in adjustments. the map just needs tuned and tip in transient throttle or accel enrichment needs tuned after and it should stop stalling
Thank you for that info. I'm in the process of replacing the fuel pump . After that it's ready for the tuner to do his thing. Fingers crossed 🤞
@@themechanic6117 I just hope the tuner knows haltech pretty well. From the sound of it they may not but I hope this thing rips when it’s finished!
@@themechanic6117 you’re welcome!
I hear you. I'm hoping that the tuner couldn't do much previously because the car wasn't "ready " to be tuned. Now that all the sensors are working and I fix my fuel pressure issue, I'm willing to give the tuner the benefit of the doubt .
Hi! In any case, before you'll buy a new pump, check your fuel pressure regulator as well.
From my experience, aftermarket regulators might not have the hardened valve face and seat inside just like the oem regulators have and they just loose the prime much faster.
Just trying to reduce unnecesary expenses if possible 😀
otherwise, fabulous work 🙂
I already have the new pump, I've had it for over a month already but that's a good suggestion. It didn't occur to me to check the FPR , I checked the injectors already to make sure it wasn't a leaking injector . I'll need to find a way to block off the return port on the FPR to check it. The reason why I believe it's the pump is because the system would hold fuel pressure for 2-3 days until one day I ran the pump dry not knowing there wasn't any more fuel in the tank. That same day that I ran the pump dry is when I noticed the pressure wasn't holding anymore.
@@themechanic6117
Thank you! Oh, now I see why is the fuel pump a number one suspect 😁
Great work… I believe your fuel pressure drop when car off cause return line it’s normal.
Thanks for the input , I have a video of trying to address the fuel pressure coming out in about 1 hour lol
This is why customers give shops cars and walk away. Expecting a 6 month to 1 year turn around time. Gotta get it right! 😊
dude, im so fucking happy for you. cant wait for you to send it when going to get milk and bread lol
I feel like we're so close to that happening! I need to stop being lazy n change that fuel pump! Why didn't honda just make a proper access hole for the pump ? Lol
@@themechanic6117 My first time ever replacing a fuel pump was on my '90 CRX Si. It was in the dead of winter, freezing outside, I had a sinus infection, and when I dropped the gas tank I got fuel all over me and the whole garage stunk like fuel. It was cramped, dark, and miserable - I swear I could smell gas in my brain for weeks. Lol. Ever since then I hated the smell of gasoline.
Horrible design, Honda. You blew it. 😅
I had a Skunk on the Miata for awhile but wasn't overly impressed. I wish I still had it though, they're getting very rare for the 1.6l Miata and prices have gone stupid.
I'm dying to see the first real drive in it without any serious issues
S2 doesn't make that manifold anymore? I'm also dying to drive it properly. I'm tired of dumping money into it and getting nothing in return
🎉
reminder: remove flashlight from throttle body 🤣
That would suck lol
Yeah change the fuel pump. Maybe stick a camera in front of the throttle body and see what it's doing while using the gas pedal vs using your hands to open and close it. You may also want to go through all the wire harness "codes" and make sure as many as possible are matched up in your software. I saw sp 1 and 2 were on your wire harness list but not designated to anything. I would screen record or film your screen just incase you make a mistake you would know how to undo it.
Thanks for that tip. I'll check over the list closely to see if anything else needs to be assigned. I'm working on the fuel pump issue now 🤞
You have to assign it
It's all a learning experience for me . Lesson learned
I really enjoy your videos. I was looking at the throttle plate in the video and noticed something and wanted to ask about it. The throttle cable doesn't look to be sitting in the black pulley correctly. It's under it and not in the groove... Am I mistaken?
While I was messing with it it did fall off it's track but during normal operation it stays on the pulley.
Hey thanks for the response. Definitely enjoy your videos as well as knowledge. I'm also an auto technician and hold the CR-X in high regard. A Rex in yellow is the dream. Keep up with the great content..
Any reason why you didn’t go with the center feed skunk 2 ultra?
Mainly space constraints. It looked like to many things would be crammed into that area. I like the idea of easy access to the throttle body. To me the trade off wasn't worth it
Do you plan on keeping that intake manifold? Looks like the hood likely isn't going to close.
Yes I'll be keeping this manifold. I won't be installing a hood on this thing. If I do install the hood I'll have to cut a giant hole in it .
@themechanic6117 at least you're not one of these dummies cutting up an original hood.
I vote for the giant hole lol!
I'm surprised this car doesn't need an idle air control valve.
I just didn't install or plan to use a idle air control. Looking back at it I should have implemented it from the beginning. I'm sure it would benefit me to run one.
my k tuned 70mm tb, i had to lightly sand the brass plate to get it to seal good. poor quality that i see too often.
I thought I was going to have to do that but I'm glad I got it to idle between 900- 1k rpm . I can deal with that. Hopefully it breaks in over time and it won't be sticky anymore