I took the interlock pill out of my Dana 18’s in my 55 M38A1 and my 65 CJ 5. They did that to prevent people from torquing the yoke off the rear axle or the back of the transfer case. When I’m out running trails , I lock the front hubs and run around in 2 wd low and when I start climbing or 4 wd is needed, I shift in and out of 4 wd as needed. It is also nice to have the 2wd low when backing trailers.
This is a great instructional for anyone doing up a transfer case and the relaxed way you went about it makes it a whole lot less scary. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video, as always, Jacob. One note on the shifter lock out pin you left out...that's fine with the twin stick because it allows you to have 2WD and 4WD low range. BUT, with the single stick, it MUST be in there or it just won't work. Just thought I'd mention that in case a viewer was doing a single stick. As for the large hole case, you were correct that it was 66-71, but to the best of my knowledge, the large input hole was V6 only. They are nice too because it allows the transfer to be removed without having to take off the gear from the trans....the gear will slide through the larger hole.
I don't know if I'll ever use this very informative info but I sure am glad to have it. When I was young ( I'm 75) my dad saw I had an interest in how things worked so he had me take apart fishing reels and put them back together. At 15 I finished rebuilding a Chevy 6 cyl engine and got to continue my driving lessons. Thanks for what you do for those who want to learn.
I relate a lot to your story! The big difference is growing up my dad was always pissed at me for taking things apart and putting them back together. I now understand why, but I'm so glad I kept with it. When I was 15 I was given a old Chevy with a 6. In one day I had it stripped to a rolling chassis. Dad was as mad as he ever got with me. But I went through that entire chassis and cleaned every inch to shiny metal. Replaced all the seals and primed and painted the whole thing. Did the same with the body. By time I was 18 I had a pretty complete 51 truck. When I was 20 I actually had the unique privilege of teaching my father how to rebuild an engine and we also built an entire wiring harness from scratch. Not many kids get to teach there dad. My grandpa was an incredible mechanic, but when my dad was growing up, he was in the fields running whatever machine worked while grandpa fixed what didn't. So my dad didn't learn a whole lot when it came to mechanics. He ended up going to college and becoming a doctor and surgeon instead! I'm now 30 and my dad and I work on something almost every weekend.
Great build,a lot of work getting every thing ready to put together and some machine work to make those Tera Low Gears work,lucky finding them,with the T-18 and modified D-18 you should be a happy camper,Metalshaper,Brian,cannot be beat,he has forgot more than a lot know about Jeeps,watched all of his videos,they have helped me many times,I know why you left the gear off between Trans,Transfer Case,you may want it to be a surprise in next video,so wont say anything to spoil it!Thanks Jacob,keep the videos coming!
Very helpful, and I appreciate how you walk everyone through the things and don't hide your mess ups. Especially grateful for the tips and product reference links. Thanks for doing this!
And Thank you for your videos also, very informative, and easy to follow. You do make it sound and look easy, but I know better. Thanks again, you got a new subscriber.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I am currently assembling my Dana 18 myself, my first time doing transmission work. Your video was very complete, very descriptive, detailed and well documented. I’m gonna wrap everything up tomorrow and this video is going to make all that a lot easier for me. Perfect timing. Thank you very much again
@@SevenBarSalvage actually…..I can into a major issue. When installing the upgraded intermediate shaft……the intermediate gear locks up on the output gear. Does your Gmail account listed on your Facebook work for you? Maybe I could send you a video?
You always do a great job. I'm sure someone else has said this, but you could have put both gear sets in loose and not had to alter the housing. In your case, I probably would have done the same though instead of taking apart everything. Thanks to you, now I know, so thanks! Your videos have helped me a lot. Not so much learning the tech side, but for figuring out a plan of attack.
Yep hind sight is 20/20! Glad to hear it! You guessed it, I’ve got a video showing how to disassemble the planetary set and swap bowl gears to work with the low gears!
Your video is great. Very detailed. I need to do the same to my '58 cj-5. I build machinery by trade. On the use of the crimp nut rather than the castle nut. It's best if you have two or three threads sticking out of the nut to get the correct locking you are looking for. You can remove the needed metal from the bottom of the nut to get the correct depth and torque. Without the exposed threads, the locking crimp may not hold. Also, you got your second shift lever spring on the wrong side. the spring holds the lever end into the shift rail. With the spring to the inside of the shift lever, it will keep the lever leaning away from the groove in the shift rail. Thanks for the great video that will help people for years to come.
Really appreciate it! Thank you for the feedback I’m gonna go check that out! That’s one of my goals on this channel is to save people some research and trial and error time glad you agree!
Excellent job/video. I have a T-18 and researching how to make it not LEAK. Lots of people permatex the splines, threadseal every bolt, upgrade the pan, and sometimes use two felt (or combo with rubber) seals. Would be great to see you really emphasize these parts of the build. Thanks for this.
Thank you! I’ve seen those methods (tried some myself) I guess I was trying to show the factory way but you’re right all those options couldn’t hurt anything! The factory pans are really think and deform under the bolts. Thank you for the suggestions and for watching!
Awesome work. Looks great. IMHO, with the 4 speed you could have skipped the terra lows and been happy. That compound low 1st gear really drops it down slow!! Especially since it's in front of the T-case, it's basically doubling the crawl ratio over the 3 speed anyways. Just thought I'd mention it in case anyone was contemplating the similar thing.
I agree, the low gears might even be too low but I hadn’t seen any for sale and I jumped on the chance to have some. Worst case I swap in a stock t case and throw the low gear case in a different Jeep! Thank you for watching!
if you are having a problem tighten or loosening the fork set screws. A 3/8 extension will work. use the dive part of the extension will fit perfect over the set screw, and use a adjustable on the square drive to turn it .
I working to rebuild my TC 18 for my cj2 a and I put 2 of them in part to choice the best parts. About the speed gear used to connect the cable one of my TCase have a small rubber tube how look to play as a seal ( before you put the retaining screw on)? near a 1/2 inch long and not boder the shaft to turn. I have the 1 inch and 1/8 shaft a bit different.Good job , I am in Quebec and i will put a 1943 GPW body on a early cj2A 1945 frame, with double wheel in the back.Thank your job and video will help me... waite for my parts i change.
The paper gasket under the seals is to prevent leaks around the seal because of the metal casing. We always put gasket sealer around the sealer housing to prevent leakage on the outside of the seal. If you have a rubberized seal as you showed, those will seal also on the outside! I'm surprised that you guys don't lube the seals and sealing surface before you put the yokes in! And I think your emergency brake spring is in the wrong way! Where do you always find these obsolete parts? I want a low gear too, so where should I look for one? Do you remember who had the 5:1?
You’re right it is a good idea to put a little lube on fresh seals. I’m going to look into the spring orientation I’ve seen it 3 different ways you’ve got me thinking! I just keep my eyes open and my ear to the ground… and a little luck 😉
Overdrive, next..awesome, I'm doin a 57 willys truck that's got t-18 4spd coupled to a Mercedes 5cyl turbo diesel, I plan on going through everything just to make sure gears aren't pitted...thx very good video,as the last one I had opened up was in '81 w my dad on a flatfender we built together the year before he died,as with previous commentors relaxed attitude much appreciated
Great video. I am in the process of rebuilding my T90 with the lower T90C gearing. I am also about to order a D18 with the 3.15:1 gearing. Were you able to build a D18 that does not leak? I hate getting oil on the parking brake.
Awesome build! I’ve actually not filled it up with oil yet but I’m feeling pretty confident about this one! I know what you mean these are so hard to seal up! Thanks!
Thank you! I bought a lot of this stuff over time so I’m not sure on an exact number, I’d say without the overdrive stuff around $1400-$1500. Crazy to think about 😆
Putting a Warn overdrive, or Saturn overdrive on the back of that Dana 18, are you? Your right about Brian, metalshaperJeep. I've watched a lot of his stuff, I subscribe. Very nice and knowledgeable man.
Are you 100% certain on that emergency brake spring setup? I thought the spring with the different end went in the area that has the lever at the bottom right, (But I'm not 100% sure myself since mine doesn't seem to be working right.)
I’m 99.99% sure, that’s the only way I’ve ever seen them set up! But there’s always more than one way to skin a cat, wouldn’t be the first time I’ve been wrong haha
@@kululv I’ve seen it 3 different ways to be honest. What you’re saying makes sense to clear the lever. You’ve got me thinking I’ll look into it, thank you!
Hi, can you name the reason why my transfer case keep releasing ang i have this noise before it release to nuetral. It ive already change my bearings ang gears what may be the other problem?
I have a Dana 18 transfer case I completely rebuilt it started leaking at the rear yolk I tore it apart and noticed the felt seal rubbed against the rubber seal and found small piece of the felt between the double lip Seal. Just wondering if I did something wrong hope you can help thank you
@@SevenBarSalvage I remember the seal being thick. I guess I'll cut in half or do you think I really need it I don't go down dirt roads or play in the mud it's more of like a mall princess
Hi Seven, I'm using my dad's cell phone. I'm Sergio. Could you tell me the code of the bearings, cone and cup of the central pin, transfer case reform, thanks from Argentina.
@@SevenBarSalvage sajnalom a latasom a covid-19 -ota rommlott de ha megadnad a szamat a csavarnak amit a kepen lattunk a vilag szeme rajtad van itt nem vitatkozni kell en jobban tudom mint te ...itt segiteni kellene a masikat a tudasat fejleszteni mert az iskolak ...!!!?? szoval tanits no bull shit tanits ok ok ok
Willys = WILLIS, as far as pronunciation goes and we all want to seem like experts and pronounce the name right, right? Of course people will want to pronounce it their own way, but it's a proper name (Willys-Overland founder John North Willys) and anyone who purposely mispronounces your name gets a punch in the face until they get it correct. 😀
I took the interlock pill out of my Dana 18’s in my 55 M38A1 and my 65 CJ 5. They did that to prevent people from torquing the yoke off the rear axle or the back of the transfer case.
When I’m out running trails , I lock the front hubs and run around in 2 wd low and when I start climbing or 4 wd is needed, I shift in and out of 4 wd as needed. It is also nice to have the 2wd low when backing trailers.
That makes sense, thank you!
This is a great instructional for anyone doing up a transfer case and the relaxed way you went about it makes it a whole lot less scary. Thanks for sharing.
I really appreciate this comment! I try and make my videos come across that way I’m glad it’s working. Thank you for watching!
Excellent video, as always, Jacob. One note on the shifter lock out pin you left out...that's fine with the twin stick because it allows you to have 2WD and 4WD low range. BUT, with the single stick, it MUST be in there or it just won't work. Just thought I'd mention that in case a viewer was doing a single stick. As for the large hole case, you were correct that it was 66-71, but to the best of my knowledge, the large input hole was V6 only. They are nice too because it allows the transfer to be removed without having to take off the gear from the trans....the gear will slide through the larger hole.
Excellent information as always! I didn’t know that about the single stick but it makes sense! Thank you for sharing!
I don't know if I'll ever use this very informative info but I sure am glad to have it.
When I was young ( I'm 75) my dad saw I had an interest in how things worked so he had me take apart fishing reels and put them back together. At 15 I finished rebuilding a Chevy 6 cyl engine and got to continue my driving lessons. Thanks for what you do for those who want to learn.
There’s something rewarding about fixing and rebuilding things! Thank you for watching!
I relate a lot to your story! The big difference is growing up my dad was always pissed at me for taking things apart and putting them back together. I now understand why, but I'm so glad I kept with it. When I was 15 I was given a old Chevy with a 6. In one day I had it stripped to a rolling chassis. Dad was as mad as he ever got with me. But I went through that entire chassis and cleaned every inch to shiny metal. Replaced all the seals and primed and painted the whole thing. Did the same with the body. By time I was 18 I had a pretty complete 51 truck. When I was 20 I actually had the unique privilege of teaching my father how to rebuild an engine and we also built an entire wiring harness from scratch. Not many kids get to teach there dad. My grandpa was an incredible mechanic, but when my dad was growing up, he was in the fields running whatever machine worked while grandpa fixed what didn't. So my dad didn't learn a whole lot when it came to mechanics. He ended up going to college and becoming a doctor and surgeon instead! I'm now 30 and my dad and I work on something almost every weekend.
Great build,a lot of work getting every thing ready to put together and some machine work to make those Tera Low Gears work,lucky finding them,with the T-18 and modified D-18 you should be a happy camper,Metalshaper,Brian,cannot be beat,he has forgot more than a lot know about Jeeps,watched all of his videos,they have helped me many times,I know why you left the gear off between Trans,Transfer Case,you may want it to be a surprise in next video,so wont say anything to spoil it!Thanks Jacob,keep the videos coming!
Haha I appreciate it! Thank you for watching!
Very helpful, and I appreciate how you walk everyone through the things and don't hide your mess ups. Especially grateful for the tips and product reference links. Thanks for doing this!
Thank you for the feedback glad to hear it!
And Thank you for your videos also, very informative, and easy to follow. You do make it sound and look easy, but I know better. Thanks again, you got a new subscriber.
Thank you I really appreciate the feedback!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I am currently assembling my Dana 18 myself, my first time doing transmission work. Your video was very complete, very descriptive, detailed and well documented. I’m gonna wrap everything up tomorrow and this video is going to make all that a lot easier for me. Perfect timing. Thank you very much again
Thank you for watching! If you have any questions feel free to reach out!
@@SevenBarSalvage actually…..I can into a major issue. When installing the upgraded intermediate shaft……the intermediate gear locks up on the output gear.
Does your Gmail account listed on your Facebook work for you? Maybe I could send you a video?
Seven.bar.salvage@gmail.com yeah I’m curious what’s going on!
Good job. Brian is top notch as you know.
Thank you, for sure!
You always do a great job. I'm sure someone else has said this, but you could have put both gear sets in loose and not had to alter the housing. In your case, I probably would have done the same though instead of taking apart everything. Thanks to you, now I know, so thanks! Your videos have helped me a lot. Not so much learning the tech side, but for figuring out a plan of attack.
I realize I'm 8 months late, and I will be hunting down the next video, but I'm guessing you're going to be installing an overdrive unit.
Yep hind sight is 20/20! Glad to hear it! You guessed it, I’ve got a video showing how to disassemble the planetary set and swap bowl gears to work with the low gears!
Your video is great. Very detailed. I need to do the same to my '58 cj-5. I build machinery by trade. On the use of the crimp nut rather than the castle nut. It's best if you have two or three threads sticking out of the nut to get the correct locking you are looking for. You can remove the needed metal from the bottom of the nut to get the correct depth and torque. Without the exposed threads, the locking crimp may not hold. Also, you got your second shift lever spring on the wrong side. the spring holds the lever end into the shift rail. With the spring to the inside of the shift lever, it will keep the lever leaning away from the groove in the shift rail. Thanks for the great video that will help people for years to come.
Really appreciate it! Thank you for the feedback I’m gonna go check that out! That’s one of my goals on this channel is to save people some research and trial and error time glad you agree!
Excellent job/video. I have a T-18 and researching how to make it not LEAK. Lots of people permatex the splines, threadseal every bolt, upgrade the pan, and sometimes use two felt (or combo with rubber) seals. Would be great to see you really emphasize these parts of the build. Thanks for this.
Thank you! I’ve seen those methods (tried some myself) I guess I was trying to show the factory way but you’re right all those options couldn’t hurt anything! The factory pans are really think and deform under the bolts. Thank you for the suggestions and for watching!
Awesome work. Looks great. IMHO, with the 4 speed you could have skipped the terra lows and been happy. That compound low 1st gear really drops it down slow!! Especially since it's in front of the T-case, it's basically doubling the crawl ratio over the 3 speed anyways. Just thought I'd mention it in case anyone was contemplating the similar thing.
I agree, the low gears might even be too low but I hadn’t seen any for sale and I jumped on the chance to have some. Worst case I swap in a stock t case and throw the low gear case in a different Jeep! Thank you for watching!
I enjoy watching your videos and I watch Brian's videos also
Thank you!
if you are having a problem tighten or loosening the fork set screws. A 3/8 extension will work. use the dive part of the extension will fit perfect over the set screw, and use a adjustable on the square drive to turn it .
Great tip thank you for sharing!
I working to rebuild my TC 18 for my cj2 a and I put 2 of them in part to choice the best parts. About the speed gear used to connect the cable one of my TCase have a small rubber tube how look to play as a seal ( before you put the retaining screw on)? near a 1/2 inch long and not boder the shaft to turn. I have the 1 inch and 1/8 shaft a bit different.Good job , I am in Quebec and i will put a 1943 GPW body on a early cj2A 1945 frame, with double wheel in the back.Thank your job and video will help me... waite for my parts i change.
Very interesting! Sounds like a great project, good luck!
Thank you again for sharing your knowledge, a great informative video. I’m searching for my project and these videos help tremendously.
Glad to hear it thank you for watching!
nice job, that's going to be a great unit in your jeep
Thank you!
The paper gasket under the seals is to prevent leaks around the seal because of the metal casing. We always put gasket sealer around the sealer housing to prevent leakage on the outside of the seal. If you have a rubberized seal as you showed, those will seal also on the outside! I'm surprised that you guys don't lube the seals and sealing surface before you put the yokes in! And I think your emergency brake spring is in the wrong way! Where do you always find these obsolete parts? I want a low gear too, so where should I look for one? Do you remember who had the 5:1?
You’re right it is a good idea to put a little lube on fresh seals. I’m going to look into the spring orientation I’ve seen it 3 different ways you’ve got me thinking! I just keep my eyes open and my ear to the ground… and a little luck 😉
Overdrive, next..awesome, I'm doin a 57 willys truck that's got t-18 4spd coupled to a Mercedes 5cyl turbo diesel, I plan on going through everything just to make sure gears aren't pitted...thx very good video,as the last one I had opened up was in '81 w my dad on a flatfender we built together the year before he died,as with previous commentors relaxed attitude much appreciated
Thank you for the feedback! Sounds like an awesome build!
THANKS, GREAT VID WERE DID YOU GET THE NEAT TRANSFER KNOBS FROM
Thank you! Advanced Adapters sells them!
Learned a lot from your video. What kind of paint did you use to paint the transfer case?
Glad to hear it! Rustoleum 2X 2 in 1 is what I’ve been using for a while now seems to hold up pretty good and goes on easy!
Great video. I am in the process of rebuilding my T90 with the lower T90C gearing. I am also about to order a D18 with the 3.15:1 gearing. Were you able to build a D18 that does not leak? I hate getting oil on the parking brake.
Awesome build! I’ve actually not filled it up with oil yet but I’m feeling pretty confident about this one! I know what you mean these are so hard to seal up! Thanks!
Amazing work 😍👍
Thank you!
Love the videos. What was your end cost on this build if you don't mind saying?
Thank you! I bought a lot of this stuff over time so I’m not sure on an exact number, I’d say without the overdrive stuff around $1400-$1500. Crazy to think about 😆
Putting a Warn overdrive, or Saturn overdrive on the back of that Dana 18, are you? Your right about Brian, metalshaperJeep. I've watched a lot of his stuff, I subscribe. Very nice and knowledgeable man.
You got it 😉 Oh yeah he’s the man!
Are you 100% certain on that emergency brake spring setup? I thought the spring with the different end went in the area that has the lever at the bottom right, (But I'm not 100% sure myself since mine doesn't seem to be working right.)
I’m 99.99% sure, that’s the only way I’ve ever seen them set up! But there’s always more than one way to skin a cat, wouldn’t be the first time I’ve been wrong haha
@@SevenBarSalvage I'm 99% sure it goes in the other way! the hook side can interfere with the emergency brake spring! Watch the metal shaper video!
@@kululv I’ve seen it 3 different ways to be honest. What you’re saying makes sense to clear the lever. You’ve got me thinking I’ll look into it, thank you!
Your adding an overdrive!
You got it 😉
Hi, can you name the reason why my transfer case keep releasing ang i have this noise before it release to nuetral. It ive already change my bearings ang gears what may be the other problem?
That’s strange… hard to say!
Looks great
Thank you!
I am assuming that the 18 is high speed in and out only ?
It’s only got 2 hi and then 4hi 4 low… this way 2 low is also an option. Thanks!
I have a Dana 18 transfer case I completely rebuilt it started leaking at the rear yolk I tore it apart and noticed the felt seal rubbed against the rubber seal and found small piece of the felt between the double lip Seal. Just wondering if I did something wrong hope you can help thank you
I’ve never seen that issue myself. I wonder if the felt seal was too thick, a lot of these reproduction parts are hit or miss. Sorry to hear that!
@@SevenBarSalvage I remember the seal being thick. I guess I'll cut in half or do you think I really need it I don't go down dirt roads or play in the mud it's more of like a mall princess
why did you not use assembly lube?
Everything is sitting in oil, I guess you could but I didn’t see any potential for anything to start dry. Thanks!
Hi Seven, I'm using my dad's cell phone. I'm Sergio. Could you tell me the code of the bearings, cone and cup of the central pin, transfer case reform, thanks from Argentina.
elismerem a tudasodat de milenne ha nem a grade 2 or 5 csavart tenned oda ahova teszed hanem grade 8 or jobb ???
Oh yeah I only use grade 8 hardware, it’s worth the extra money!
@@SevenBarSalvage sajnalom a latasom a covid-19 -ota rommlott de ha megadnad a szamat a csavarnak amit a kepen lattunk a vilag szeme rajtad van itt nem vitatkozni kell en jobban tudom mint te ...itt segiteni kellene a masikat a tudasat fejleszteni mert az iskolak ...!!!?? szoval tanits no bull shit tanits ok ok ok
Great job. Where were you 6 months ago when i did mine? lol
Haha seems like that’s how it always goes 😅
Great vid.. got a 18 rebuild coming up. But man, the music is effing BAD. You don't need music.. esp once you're talking.
I appreciate it!
Willys = WILLIS, as far as pronunciation goes and we all want to seem like experts and pronounce the name right, right? Of course people will want to pronounce it their own way, but it's a proper name (Willys-Overland founder John North Willys) and anyone who purposely mispronounces your name gets a punch in the face until they get it correct. 😀
Haha excellent explanation! It’s a topic that will never be agreed on though 😅
Wow Jacob! Another great detailed Assembly video! @metalshaper (Brian) is a cool guy and your right he definitely knows his stuff!!
I really appreciate it! I’d love to go to his shop and meet him sometime, could probably teach me a lot!
hy, I'm from argentina and I got a dana 18 in pieces, can you send me conics an ball bearing specifications, thank you for the video, very well done