I have a Sekonic Auto-Leader III model L-162 (similar to your Sekonic Auto-Leader K-138). It took a bit to figure it out, but it is now so easy to use. It's a nice collectible & functional piece of kit.
Thank you for explaining this out for us not born in the age of film photography. I'm going on vacation with my family down to Colorado and South Dakota and I'm bringing my sekonic autoleader3 and my kodak retina 1A
David: Would you be kind enuf to do a supplemental video as to 1) when to use incident mode (how good is it) 2) why use these meters in lieu of phone app or spot meter? In particular, I was taught to use incident or spot for positive films, spot meter for LF (zone system) which these meters can't do. Thx.
I can do the phone app for sure. Honestly, for incident metering, I don't know how to do it properly. My entire education on it was 'this is for measuring ambient light for studio work,' and then the class moving on to other metering topics. I use reflective metering for slide films (when I use a meter at all for those) just like I do for black and white and C-41 stocks.
@@DavidHancock Thank you for the response. It's great that we were all taught different "how's" that we then have to discover the "why's" later in life.
Hi, DavidLiu. I am a pro and use both. I use incident for quick and dirty measurement where the scene does not present extreme contrast, and it's dead accurate. When the scene exceeds the contrast range of the film ~5 stops for color negative or digital (varies) and less for transparency and up to 8 stops for B/W negative. The reflected reading doesn't add any information unless it reads specific areas of the shot, say key highlights or important shadows and must then be understood with the zone system modified for your film type. With a general/average reflective reading, you have a slightly less interpretive reading than you have with incident readings. Add personal judgement and it's a snap. Use incident when unsure, and your meter can do it, and graduate to reflected and spot (also reflective) when you get the hang of it. Cheers.
I am new to photography and using a light meter. After watching you demonstrate three different light meters, I figure I can take 8 years of study and become a Doctor or I can spend the rest of my life trying to figure out how to read one of these three light meters. I think I will sell my camera and become a Doctor, it would make my life so much easier.
@@DavidHancock I think you are right David,,,,lol. To tell the truth I am 80 years old and I swear I am getting dumber by the minute,,,lol. I was hoping you would get a good laugh.
Hi you seem to be using the pilot meter to verify the more complicated meters so isn’t best to use the simplest one as it less complicated but still give you a good readings ie no bells and whistles ie just point and read and you got all the info without complicated set ups
@@DavidHancock David can I ask you an opinion? not strictly related to you video that is absolutely great!. I have 4 analogue light meters and they all give me different values when i measure the light. I tried to calibrate them. But they are still giving different values. Next step I do I think is just using a roll of film and I will do some test and take note. Would you do something different to understand which one is working properly? (or at least better than the other 3)... thanks
When I'm using a lens filter, should I just take the reading as normal for an unfiltered camera and then adjust the EV window down to compensate? Thanks for all your videos, I'm just at the start of my film journey and I'm enjoying your content.
My Nikon FM3A can shoot at 1/4000 of a second in mechanical mode. The 1961 Minolta V3 goes completely mechanical to 1/3000 second. But you're correct, that in general these high shutter speed cameras usually have electronic shutters.
The sekonics look and function almost identical to the Waltz brand meters. The Waltz Coronet series of meters have a much more easy to read/less hokey needle display.
Hi can you please kindly let me know is there a way to adjust the pilot 2? It seems couple of stops out. On the back of the meter there is a screw like circle, is it for needle adjustment?
I don't know that specific model light meter well. Most of them have a screw on the back that you can twist to adjust the setting sensitivity. It doesn't take much to adjust it.
Should I point the Gossen light meter towards the camera when reflective reading and point the light meter towards the subject when incident reading? Or vice-versa?
For taking a reading of the scene, point the meter at the scene. For incident readings, take the reading where your subject is located and just hold the meter upright. The latter is really intended for studio work.
Great and detailed info, as always! I've found an old Toshiba EE101 light meter for sale. Can't find much information about it. I was wondering if it would be a good choice for long exposures and night film photography. From the photos I've seen, looks like it's got a wide range and it's electronic :) . If you get a chance to look at it, please let me know what your thoughts are. Thx
Thank you! I wouldn't use any light meter for night photography. None of them are sensitive enough. There are some good guides online for how long you can shoot at night in different conditions and with different types of subjects. Cities are much different than rural star trails, for example. And I don't have a good rule that applies across situations, either.
Take a look at the Gossen Profisix. Way more sensitive than a selenium cell powered meter, as in measuring to an LV of minus 5 instead of plus 2 or 3, at 100 iso. Powered by a 9v commonly available battery. Keep in mind that you usually have to extend exposure times if your meter indicates times over a second. Data on this will be provided with the film (yes, on that bit of paper most people have thrown away when they need it). Alternatively, there are cameras that measure off the film, that is: during exposure.
You know, good questions. I have heard both that selenium doesn't itself degrade and that it does. In the former instance, I'm told that the wiring gets a bit corroded and that kills the meters. I don't know the truth about it either way. With old gear, it's best to check the accuracy against something new, regardless of whether it's a camera, light meter, flash, etc.
@@DavidHancock Well if the lightmeters don’t use batteries they are selenium About the question of deterioration I’ve always been told that it will happen over time but than again I’m no expert so who knows?
Hello David, you are talking about the old light meters here. How about a new video about old spot light meters? Most people will think of the Pentax spot meters from the 70s, the Gossen spot masters or the Minolta spot meters. But Pentax still had the original spot meter from the 60s, the "Asahi Pentax Spot Exposure Meter", of which there is also a Honeywell version. I have not been able to find a single video of these 60s spot meters on UA-cam. Perhaps a video that also covers the old Pentax spot meters from the 60s and 70s as well as the others and possibly the newer ones from the 80s and 90s would be a good continuation of this video here. It's just a suggestion on my part, as many photographers not only use light meters from various decades, but also prefer a spot meter, especially for distant main subjects or subjects that go into depth, before they always have to walk back and forth. Greetings Lutz
Good question and good point. I have a video on the wall to make (no date yet) on how to use a spot meter specifically. I'm going to approach that one as more of a 'what is a spot meter' and 'here are some tips on how to use these things in a powerful way' as opposed to a specific tutorial because I've never been able to get a Pentax spot meter for a reasonable price. That's a piece of gear I do get periodic requests to do a tutorial on, however.
@@DavidHancock At least the first two model series of the "Pentax Spot Exposure Meter 3º21º" from 1961 ~1964 and the "Pentax Spotmeter 1º/21° (II-V)" from around 1964 or 1965 to 1976 should be quite affordable. The digital model series began in 1977. I found the first model series online for between just under 80 and 100 € and the second model series for between 90 and 174 €, depending on the seller. Of course, both have shipping costs on top and I live in Germany, where shipping costs from America or Japan are not exactly that low. As I said, even after an intensive search on UA-cam, I have not found a single video of the first model series, as if it had never existed in the eyes of UA-cam and I find that almost shameful. Greetings Lutz
I got the SeKonic L-6 and I went stupid, now I know why it has a blue and red scale, but I still don't know what's going on with the numbers showing in the light window above the ASA
It's a bit of a weird interface, but those numbers correspond to the aperture number on the calculator dial. After taking a meter reading, you place the aperture number next to either open or closed, depending on the cover being opened or closed, to determine the suitable shutter and aperture combinations.
I have a Minnette which is slightly similar to one of those Sekonics but no Amp... but that front door with a slit also the needle does actually point to an f stop.. so a little bit different... Seems reasonably accurate when compared to the 2 lightmeters on my 2 zenith...also use a couple of lightmeter apps too.....
Do sny of those need batteries for the light cell to work? I don't notice. as a side note: it appears that manufactures are incapable of producing anything that does not require batteries.
@@DavidHancock thanks, objective question? Are the older matters better to take readings? The older ones seem to give an f-stop range witch you could argue as a choice and newer .tets seem to give a single f-stop? my two cents: the older meters are better, no batteries to replace, the f-stop range means your bracket(if you're bracketinf) was just handed to you on a silver plater
Nope. The flash is too quick. I would expect these aren't responsive enough to record the actual light level change anyway. That would go for every light meter that I know of.
@@DavidHancock , I recently purchased a Gossen Lunasix 3 (European name for the Luna Pro but without the newer Sbc light cell) meter for this reason. Yeah it is an old 2 x 1.35v mercury battery driven device at different voltage to currently non-banned batteries but, you can always buy an expensive zinc air hearing aid battery that might fit (life span measured in weeks) or button cell adaper with a voltage limiting diode built in (sold at B&H or, like I chose to do, just heat shrink wrap 2 modern 1.55v buttons together padded to fit and solder a diode into the battery contact lead wire inside the case. There are videos on youtube how to easily make that mod way cheaper. $0.00 if you scavange the appropriate diode from junk electronics).
Oh yes, certainly. The Canon F-1 is a good example. Only a small number of leaf shutters reach 1,1000th (a Graflex and the Yashica Lynx cameras come to mind.) That said, those all arrived much later than most of the light meters in this video. I think that may have been the point I was working toward.
LoL! the Sekonic L6 is so vintage that it uses the old shutter speed series 1/5 1/10 1/25 1/50 1/100 1/250, although you refer to "1/60" @7:50 Other cameras that can do 1/2000 without their meter working (or batteries) are the Pentax LX and (I believe) the Canon F1-n. None of these old meters can cover anywhere near the high ISO that digital cameras can, although we can always extrapolate.
I’m guessing the “Bower NE-3” I have isn’t a common meter because I absolutely cannot find any info on how to use it! No manuals no videos no nothing! All I find are expired eBay auctions. I want to use it for 8 and 16mm filming! I guess this is what I get for bargain hunting.
So the Bower is most like the Sekonic. On your light meter, for stills, you'll want to set the ASA (same as ISO) and then use the bar pairs on the outside wheel. The red bar pairs SHOULD correspond to the red numbers in the metering window and the black bar pair to the black. The red numbers are used with the top flipped up and the black with the top closed (bright conditions.) When you take a reading, the needle goes to a number, 1.4 to 45. That's the exposure value reading (but isn't actually EVs...) Align either the red or black bars to that number along the top of the largest dial, depending on which of the scales you're reading based on whether the cover on the front of the meter is open or closed. From there, the shutter speed and aperture combinations should be apparent. Note that I've never actually used or seen one of those. So to verify that I'm right, set the ASA to 400 and then take a reading in full sun with the sun to your back with the cover closed. The needle should rest somewhere. Set the black bars to the number on the outside of the dial that corresponds with that needle reading. At f/16, the shutter speed should be roughly 1/400th.
@@oldradiosnphonographs Good question and I don't know. I suspect that, at minimum, many used similar parts from subcontracted suppliers or vendors with slightly different interface designs to give the appearance of difference between the brands. That's still a common practice today.
Ok I’m a bit confused. I’m one of those people who get’s lost easily unless I have a photo/video tutorial or something or I get stressed. I think I’ll invest in a more well known brand of light meter and do my research to make sure there’s plenty info on how to use it. I think this was a $15 gamble I just lost due to my cluelessness on what to buy and me being as cheap as possible. I’m a total N00b to this stuff and I guess a little trial and error is what we go though to learn better. But until I have the $$$ for those nicer meters with all the info, I use the app on my phone. At least I can understand that one easily since there are many videos that explain how the app works.
@@DavidHancock ok now that I’ve calmed down and took a couple of deep breaths…so when the flap is down on that bumpy sensor thingy that’s how I use it on bright sunny days? So I use the two black bars and line them up on the Gray numbers where the pointer is at? And same goes for the two red bars to the red numbers when the flap is open? Am I getting this right?
@@DavidHancock Ot, but zi was watching your Nikon F3 vid, how do you know which vatient you have since most came with the HP prism,and a you really have is a serial number to go off of.
Oh man, it's been so many years since I made that, I really don't recall. Whichever version you have, it's an F3, so it'll be fun to use and deliver good or better results.
@@DavidHancock yes. But just fun to know if you got 1 of the 4 varients that went labeled unlike.the 2 titanium varients(shutter/body).they both spotted a "/t" next to the F3
@@DavidHancock I found that there was a nlNavy vsrient , but looks like a simple parting of the F3HP and an MD-4 and pre pending the serial on the motor drive with Navy Now all the way from frct field the FE had a very limited gold edition www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/Variants/index2.htm
Learn first how to use your lightmeter before putting up a presentation. Also, after you master the use of your lightmetery, describe properly the steps to take the measurement (in which direction you should orient your meter in each particular mode,, and determine the correct exposure). Sorry, I didn't want to be mean.
Thanks for taking the time to make this, very helpful
Thank you!
My dad recently came across a Coronet B WALZ and this is really the only video I saw to reference. Thank you so much for this video.
Nice find! I'm not very familiar with that model, but hopefully it works the same as these.
Enjoyed this very much, just purchased a Gossen Super Pilot Pro new in box, so excited!
Thank you and nice find!
I have a Sekonic Auto-Leader III model L-162 (similar to your Sekonic Auto-Leader K-138). It took a bit to figure it out, but it is now so easy to use. It's a nice collectible & functional piece of kit.
Nice! I happen to like the more advanced Sekonic, too. They made great light meters.
Thank you for explaining this out for us not born in the age of film photography.
I'm going on vacation with my family down to Colorado and South Dakota and I'm bringing my sekonic autoleader3 and my kodak retina 1A
That you and that sounds like a ton of fun!
A quick comment : this is a great video !! Thanks. RS. Canada
Thank you, Richard!
Thank you David. Very helpful.
Thank you, Rick!
David: Would you be kind enuf to do a supplemental video as to 1) when to use incident mode (how good is it) 2) why use these meters in lieu of phone app or spot meter? In particular, I was taught to use incident or spot for positive films, spot meter for LF (zone system) which these meters can't do. Thx.
I can do the phone app for sure. Honestly, for incident metering, I don't know how to do it properly. My entire education on it was 'this is for measuring ambient light for studio work,' and then the class moving on to other metering topics. I use reflective metering for slide films (when I use a meter at all for those) just like I do for black and white and C-41 stocks.
@@DavidHancock Thank you for the response. It's great that we were all taught different "how's" that we then have to discover the "why's" later in life.
Hi, DavidLiu. I am a pro and use both. I use incident for quick and dirty measurement where the scene does not present extreme contrast, and it's dead accurate. When the scene exceeds the contrast range of the film ~5 stops for color negative or digital (varies) and less for transparency and up to 8 stops for B/W negative. The reflected reading doesn't add any information unless it reads specific areas of the shot, say key highlights or important shadows and must then be understood with the zone system modified for your film type. With a general/average reflective reading, you have a slightly less interpretive reading than you have with incident readings. Add personal judgement and it's a snap. Use incident when unsure, and your meter can do it, and graduate to reflected and spot (also reflective) when you get the hang of it. Cheers.
@@jamesjacocks6221 Greatly appreciated the explanation. That's what I think my teacher was saying, but not as succinct. Thanks.
I am new to photography and using a light meter. After watching you demonstrate three different light meters, I figure I can take 8 years of study and become a Doctor or I can spend the rest of my life trying to figure out how to read one of these three light meters. I think I will sell my camera and become a Doctor, it would make my life so much easier.
And you'd probably have more money.
@@DavidHancock I think you are right David,,,,lol. To tell the truth I am 80 years old and I swear I am getting dumber by the minute,,,lol. I was hoping you would get a good laugh.
Greetings from a 70 year old😊
@@michaelbuckley8986 Oh to be young and 70 again, those were the good old days,,,,lol.
?
I will begin trying this Thank you
Nice!
Hi you seem to be using the pilot meter to verify the more complicated meters so isn’t best to use the simplest one as it less complicated but still give you a good readings ie no bells and whistles ie just point and read and you got all the info without complicated set ups
I would recommend the Pilot for most people, yes. It's very easy to use and understand.
Great video very informative thank you sooo much!!!
Thank you!
Very good video. Thank you
Thank you!
@@DavidHancock David can I ask you an opinion? not strictly related to you video that is absolutely great!. I have 4 analogue light meters and they all give me different values when i measure the light. I tried to calibrate them. But they are still giving different values. Next step I do I think is just using a roll of film and I will do some test and take note. Would you do something different to understand which one is working properly? (or at least better than the other 3)... thanks
When I'm using a lens filter, should I just take the reading as normal for an unfiltered camera and then adjust the EV window down to compensate?
Thanks for all your videos, I'm just at the start of my film journey and I'm enjoying your content.
That's correct. Just use the filter's factor to multiply the exposure value.
I just picked up the Sekonic model in the leather pouch from the local antique store. Sadly it does not work anymore. But it is a cool display piece.
They do look awesome.
My Nikon FM3A can shoot at 1/4000 of a second in mechanical mode. The 1961 Minolta V3 goes completely mechanical to 1/3000 second. But you're correct, that in general these high shutter speed cameras usually have electronic shutters.
Oh yeah. I always forget that the Fm3A has a mechanical shutter. Thank you!
Also some Chinon Memotron had 1/2000 mechanical
Great video
Thank you!
The sekonics look and function almost identical to the Waltz brand meters. The Waltz Coronet series of meters have a much more easy to read/less hokey needle display.
Interesting. I have a very similar Weston V meter myself. It's a very nice meter, that I am able to operate with one hand.
Yeah, the meters were designed to be used really easily back in the day. Once the interface was understood, they were great.
Hi can you please kindly let me know is there a way to adjust the pilot 2? It seems couple of stops out. On the back of the meter there is a screw like circle, is it for needle adjustment?
I don't know that specific model light meter well. Most of them have a screw on the back that you can twist to adjust the setting sensitivity. It doesn't take much to adjust it.
Can you explain what and how the light value number is used? I’ve read the manual but I don’t understand it
Sorry forgot to mention I’m referring to the sekonic
I can, but let's start with the explanation in this video. Where did the discussion in this video stop making sense? I can pick it up from there.
Should I point the Gossen light meter towards the camera when reflective reading and point the light meter towards the subject when incident reading? Or vice-versa?
For taking a reading of the scene, point the meter at the scene. For incident readings, take the reading where your subject is located and just hold the meter upright. The latter is really intended for studio work.
@@DavidHancock okay, thanks a lot!
My GE reads with cover closed, cover open, and cover off. It measures footcandles.
Sounds like it's working well.
Great and detailed info, as always! I've found an old Toshiba EE101 light meter for sale. Can't find much information about it. I was wondering if it would be a good choice for long exposures and night film photography. From the photos I've seen, looks like it's got a wide range and it's electronic :) . If you get a chance to look at it, please let me know what your thoughts are. Thx
Thank you! I wouldn't use any light meter for night photography. None of them are sensitive enough. There are some good guides online for how long you can shoot at night in different conditions and with different types of subjects. Cities are much different than rural star trails, for example. And I don't have a good rule that applies across situations, either.
@@DavidHancock That's good to know. Thank you, I will do a bit more research on night photography on film.
Take a look at the Gossen Profisix. Way more sensitive than a selenium cell powered meter, as in measuring to an LV of minus 5 instead of plus 2 or 3, at 100 iso. Powered by a 9v commonly available battery. Keep in mind that you usually have to extend exposure times if your meter indicates times over a second. Data on this will be provided with the film (yes, on that bit of paper most people have thrown away when they need it). Alternatively, there are cameras that measure off the film, that is: during exposure.
I got a gossen lunasix recently. Im sure this will be helpful regardless
Nice!
Are these Selenium lightmeters or CdS lightmeters ? If Selenium won’t they deteriorate over time and become inaccurate?
You know, good questions. I have heard both that selenium doesn't itself degrade and that it does. In the former instance, I'm told that the wiring gets a bit corroded and that kills the meters. I don't know the truth about it either way. With old gear, it's best to check the accuracy against something new, regardless of whether it's a camera, light meter, flash, etc.
@@DavidHancock Well if the lightmeters don’t use batteries they are selenium
About the question of deterioration I’ve always been told that it will happen over time but than again I’m no expert so who knows?
Hello David,
you are talking about the old light meters here. How about a new video about old spot light meters? Most people will think of the Pentax spot meters from the 70s, the Gossen spot masters or the Minolta spot meters. But Pentax still had the original spot meter from the 60s, the "Asahi Pentax Spot Exposure Meter", of which there is also a Honeywell version. I have not been able to find a single video of these 60s spot meters on UA-cam. Perhaps a video that also covers the old Pentax spot meters from the 60s and 70s as well as the others and possibly the newer ones from the 80s and 90s would be a good continuation of this video here.
It's just a suggestion on my part, as many photographers not only use light meters from various decades, but also prefer a spot meter, especially for distant main subjects or subjects that go into depth, before they always have to walk back and forth.
Greetings Lutz
Good question and good point. I have a video on the wall to make (no date yet) on how to use a spot meter specifically. I'm going to approach that one as more of a 'what is a spot meter' and 'here are some tips on how to use these things in a powerful way' as opposed to a specific tutorial because I've never been able to get a Pentax spot meter for a reasonable price. That's a piece of gear I do get periodic requests to do a tutorial on, however.
@@DavidHancock At least the first two model series of the "Pentax Spot Exposure Meter 3º21º" from 1961 ~1964 and the "Pentax Spotmeter 1º/21° (II-V)" from around 1964 or 1965 to 1976 should be quite affordable. The digital model series began in 1977.
I found the first model series online for between just under 80 and 100 € and the second model series for between 90 and 174 €, depending on the seller.
Of course, both have shipping costs on top and I live in Germany, where shipping costs from America or Japan are not exactly that low.
As I said, even after an intensive search on UA-cam, I have not found a single video of the first model series, as if it had never existed in the eyes of UA-cam and I find that almost shameful.
Greetings Lutz
I got the SeKonic L-6 and I went stupid, now I know why it has a blue and red scale, but I still don't know what's going on with the numbers showing in the light window above the ASA
It's a bit of a weird interface, but those numbers correspond to the aperture number on the calculator dial. After taking a meter reading, you place the aperture number next to either open or closed, depending on the cover being opened or closed, to determine the suitable shutter and aperture combinations.
I have a Minnette which is slightly similar to one of those Sekonics but no Amp... but that front door with a slit also the needle does actually point to an f stop.. so a little bit different...
Seems reasonably accurate when compared to the 2 lightmeters on my 2 zenith...also use a couple of lightmeter apps too.....
Nice!
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Really informative.
Thank you!
Do sny of those need batteries for the light cell to work? I don't notice.
as a side note: it appears that manufactures are incapable of producing anything that does not require batteries.
These models did not, but that's due up the selenium cells. CdS meters and later designs do need batteries.
@@DavidHancock thanks, objective question? Are the older matters better to take readings? The older ones seem to give an f-stop range witch you could argue as a choice and newer .tets seem to give a single f-stop?
my two cents: the older meters are better, no batteries to replace, the f-stop range means your bracket(if you're bracketinf) was just handed to you on a silver plater
Is there any way to hold a reading from a flash with these vintage meters?
Nope. The flash is too quick. I would expect these aren't responsive enough to record the actual light level change anyway. That would go for every light meter that I know of.
@@DavidHancock okay thanks. The modern seconic digital can hold a flash incident reading…? No?
@@js1451 Not sure. I've never used it.
I always buy meters that have very low ISO/ASA, at least down to 3, in case I want to shoot with a photo paper negative in my plate cameras.
Good point and a great reason to have these.
@@DavidHancock , I recently purchased a Gossen Lunasix 3 (European name for the Luna Pro but without the newer Sbc light cell) meter for this reason. Yeah it is an old 2 x 1.35v mercury battery driven device at different voltage to currently non-banned batteries but, you can always buy an expensive zinc air hearing aid battery that might fit (life span measured in weeks) or button cell adaper with a voltage limiting diode built in (sold at B&H or, like I chose to do, just heat shrink wrap 2 modern 1.55v buttons together padded to fit and solder a diode into the battery contact lead wire inside the case. There are videos on youtube how to easily make that mod way cheaper. $0.00 if you scavange the appropriate diode from junk electronics).
MEchanical cameras with more then 1/1k speeds exists. even the kiev has a (maybe) 1/1250, Im sure i have seen even TLRs capable of that.
Oh yes, certainly. The Canon F-1 is a good example. Only a small number of leaf shutters reach 1,1000th (a Graflex and the Yashica Lynx cameras come to mind.) That said, those all arrived much later than most of the light meters in this video. I think that may have been the point I was working toward.
LoL! the Sekonic L6 is so vintage that it uses the old shutter speed series 1/5 1/10 1/25 1/50 1/100 1/250, although you refer to "1/60" @7:50
Other cameras that can do 1/2000 without their meter working (or batteries) are the Pentax LX and (I believe) the Canon F1-n. None of these old meters can cover anywhere near the high ISO that digital cameras can, although we can always extrapolate.
:D I know. I realized that as I was recording and just said 'eh, the math still works.'
Nikon F2! 🙀
They're great cameras. I've done a whole video manual series as well as a review on them.
I keep trying to watch your video and as I’m watching it will turn to a commercial then to a different video
That's curious. I have mid-roll ads disabled across my channel. Does it happen at the same time every video or different times?
Gossen has double-s so that is how you pronounce it, and with a "soft" G more a Koo than a Geeee
Thank you!
I’m guessing the “Bower NE-3” I have isn’t a common meter because I absolutely cannot find any info on how to use it! No manuals no videos no nothing! All I find are expired eBay auctions. I want to use it for 8 and 16mm filming! I guess this is what I get for bargain hunting.
So the Bower is most like the Sekonic. On your light meter, for stills, you'll want to set the ASA (same as ISO) and then use the bar pairs on the outside wheel. The red bar pairs SHOULD correspond to the red numbers in the metering window and the black bar pair to the black. The red numbers are used with the top flipped up and the black with the top closed (bright conditions.)
When you take a reading, the needle goes to a number, 1.4 to 45. That's the exposure value reading (but isn't actually EVs...) Align either the red or black bars to that number along the top of the largest dial, depending on which of the scales you're reading based on whether the cover on the front of the meter is open or closed. From there, the shutter speed and aperture combinations should be apparent.
Note that I've never actually used or seen one of those.
So to verify that I'm right, set the ASA to 400 and then take a reading in full sun with the sun to your back with the cover closed. The needle should rest somewhere. Set the black bars to the number on the outside of the dial that corresponds with that needle reading. At f/16, the shutter speed should be roughly 1/400th.
@@DavidHancock Thank you so much. I wonder if many of the same meters are often sold under different brands.
@@oldradiosnphonographs Good question and I don't know. I suspect that, at minimum, many used similar parts from subcontracted suppliers or vendors with slightly different interface designs to give the appearance of difference between the brands. That's still a common practice today.
Ok I’m a bit confused. I’m one of those people who get’s lost easily unless I have a photo/video tutorial or something or I get stressed. I think I’ll invest in a more well known brand of light meter and do my research to make sure there’s plenty info on how to use it. I think this was a $15 gamble I just lost due to my cluelessness on what to buy and me being as cheap as possible. I’m a total N00b to this stuff and I guess a little trial and error is what we go though to learn better. But until I have the $$$ for those nicer meters with all the info, I use the app on my phone. At least I can understand that one easily since there are many videos that explain how the app works.
@@DavidHancock ok now that I’ve calmed down and took a couple of deep breaths…so when the flap is down on that bumpy sensor thingy that’s how I use it on bright sunny days? So I use the two black bars and line them up on the Gray numbers where the pointer is at? And same goes for the two red bars to the red numbers when the flap is open? Am I getting this right?
😊
Thank you.
L-6, BEST value at $10
I concur.
@@DavidHancock Ot, but zi was watching your Nikon F3 vid, how do you know which vatient you have since most came with the HP prism,and a you really have is a serial number to go off of.
Oh man, it's been so many years since I made that, I really don't recall. Whichever version you have, it's an F3, so it'll be fun to use and deliver good or better results.
@@DavidHancock yes. But just fun to know if you got 1 of the 4 varients that went labeled unlike.the 2 titanium varients(shutter/body).they both spotted a "/t" next to the F3
@@DavidHancock I found that there was a nlNavy vsrient , but looks like a simple parting of the F3HP and an MD-4 and pre pending the serial on the motor drive with Navy
Now all the way from frct field the FE had a very limited gold edition www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/Variants/index2.htm
Learn first how to use your lightmeter before putting up a presentation. Also, after you master the use of your lightmetery, describe properly the steps to take the measurement (in which direction you should orient your meter in each particular mode,, and determine the correct exposure). Sorry, I didn't want to be mean.
Thank you!
@@DavidHancock you are welcome.