Well done video. I have a 2019 Triumph bobber black and I got a flat tire with only 2000km on the tire so I was trying to find a video that would show how to remove the tire. The axel set up on your bike is a very similar set up so the video worked well for me. Probably saved me a $100 at the dealership not having them take it off.
You make that look easy. I was cursing Triumph and everyone else my first attempt. There's like six things that can go wrong, and one almost always does. BTW, I'm pretty sure I could hear parts falling off the Panigale. Maybe it was something breaking. Not really sure. LOL
I made it look easy through editing. I did everything at least twice, first (or few) times to figure out what is a good process, then a final time to get it on film. I still managed to struggle even after figuring out what I thought was a good method. I've been putting off recording more "maintenance" videos because every time I want to, I remember how much work the other videos took.
Nice video. The spindle was difficult to completely send home because you installed the chain prior to installing the spindle. In addition, you had the rear wheel chocked in a fixed position which exacerbated the problem. To avoid having to hammer next time (I would use a rubber mallet or at least a dead blow) you want to remove the wood chocks temporarily, support the wheel with your arm, and shake (jimmy) the wheel while pushing the spindle in with your hand or bumping it with your palm.
I guess leaving the chain adjusters untouched wasn't as time-saving as I thought, since I wasn't able to install the chain after the spindle was installed. Updating my description with your advice, thanks! I will have to refilm that section the next time I take my wheel off again.
@@jeff_rides Maybe the STR765 design is different, but for most bikes when you loosen the rear axle nut, you can slide the wheel forward and back without losing your chain adjustment. You can then slip on and off the chain, then pull the wheel back firmly and evenly, then tighten the nut. I'll have to look at my striple. Given my chain adjustment and wheel alignment was spot on to begin with, I would take a mental note of the adjustment markings to make sure I hit my target when it goes back on. I also use a motion pro alignment tool mostly out of curiosity.
@@jeff_rides I looked at mine, yeah it looks like you'd have to lose your adjustment in order to have the wheel "loose". I think chain on doesn't matter as much as I thought, I think the wood chocks prevent you from jimmying the spindle in I wouldn't worry about the chain being on, sorry about that.
@@GreenBeats11 No worries, I still think you gave some valid tips. Upon review of my own video again, I think I had actually removed my wheel chocks after I pushed the spindle as far as I could. At around the 4:50 mark, you can see that the wheel is able to spin freely. I think next time I do this again, I will screw in the chain adjusters to give the spindle more room to jiggle, and maybe that will do the trick! Another good test I can probably do is to put the spindle through various parts of the rear wheel assembly independently (wheel, spacers, swingarm) to see if it's catching anywhere.
@Joe Garfield Thanks man! I definitely will have to re-edit this video with new footage the next time I have to change my tire again. Glad I was able to help you out a bit!
easiest way to get the axle in, is to sit down and cradle the tire with your feet. that way you can raise and lower it as needed and slide the axle right in there easy peasy. what size is the socket???
Careful tightening that spindle nut with grease on the threads, that will give you a false torque value when tightening making you go over the value and overtightening, always clean the threads to get an accuracy value, other than that great video
Just wanted to post a thank you. I'm newish to motorcycles and had my first dead tire. Followed your other video to remove and this one to reinstall. Hope to see more content from you in the future. Also... Damn that's a lot of grease! Jk 😂♥️
I didn't read the service manual regarding grease, but I think it's good practice to grease moving parts. I'm just transferring my knowledge from the bicycle world, the grease helps to reduce friction, prevent corrosion, and waterproofs the area. The only downside I can think of is if you over-grease (which I may have done), then it becomes a magnet for dust and dirt. I'm not sure if you can paste links in the comments, but can you lead me in the right direction to find the service manual?
@@jeff_rides The spindle to wheel contact point is not moving, spindle contacts the inner race of bearing which does not move relative to spindle, also the spacers left/right side of wheel dont move. I think it might be useful to put just a little on the bearing race to prevent sticking and help assembly but everything else is just collecting dust imo. I have the service manual but dont know how send it to you.
@@pete_mitchell I completely agree that the inner bearing race, the spacer, and the spindle do not spin with the wheel, and on paper they should function as a single unit once clamped to the swing-arm. However I don't believe that's the case in real world applications with vibrations and bad tolerances. I don't have any supporting materials to back this up, but I think the faint score lines that goes around the spacers should be proof that there is some movement in that assembly. Besides the friction, I will still grease those up for corrosion resistance (definitely not to the extent I did in the video). After seeing the corrosion that some of my road bikes have gone through, I'm not leaving any metal-to-metal interfaces dry.
@@jeff_rides Your bike, do what you want. Any marks on these parts are just a result of assembly, they will absolutely not move during operation. Anyway, have the link for the service manual but won't be posting as your comment shows you won't be doing what it says anyway 😜
@@pete_mitchell I was treating this as a casual conversation on whether or not we should grease the parts since in your original comment you just stated that the service manual did not mention grease (implying that it is unknown whether grease is a bad thing or not). I wasn't stating things to oppose your ideas, I was merely typing out my observations and theories. If the service manual explicitly says that we should not grease those parts at all, then yes, the manual should be followed. And if I inadvertently offended you, then yes I don't deserve that service manual link 😢
Well done video. I have a 2019 Triumph bobber black and I got a flat tire with only 2000km on the tire so I was trying to find a video that would show how to remove the tire. The axel set up on your bike is a very similar set up so the video worked well for me. Probably saved me a $100 at the dealership not having them take it off.
Awesome! I'm glad I was able to help!
You make that look easy. I was cursing Triumph and everyone else my first attempt. There's like six things that can go wrong, and one almost always does. BTW, I'm pretty sure I could hear parts falling off the Panigale. Maybe it was something breaking. Not really sure. LOL
I made it look easy through editing. I did everything at least twice, first (or few) times to figure out what is a good process, then a final time to get it on film. I still managed to struggle even after figuring out what I thought was a good method. I've been putting off recording more "maintenance" videos because every time I want to, I remember how much work the other videos took.
Cheers buddy
Nice video. The spindle was difficult to completely send home because you installed the chain prior to installing the spindle. In addition, you had the rear wheel chocked in a fixed position which exacerbated the problem. To avoid having to hammer next time (I would use a rubber mallet or at least a dead blow) you want to remove the wood chocks temporarily, support the wheel with your arm, and shake (jimmy) the wheel while pushing the spindle in with your hand or bumping it with your palm.
I guess leaving the chain adjusters untouched wasn't as time-saving as I thought, since I wasn't able to install the chain after the spindle was installed. Updating my description with your advice, thanks! I will have to refilm that section the next time I take my wheel off again.
@@jeff_rides Maybe the STR765 design is different, but for most bikes when you loosen the rear axle nut, you can slide the wheel forward and back without losing your chain adjustment. You can then slip on and off the chain, then pull the wheel back firmly and evenly, then tighten the nut. I'll have to look at my striple. Given my chain adjustment and wheel alignment was spot on to begin with, I would take a mental note of the adjustment markings to make sure I hit my target when it goes back on. I also use a motion pro alignment tool mostly out of curiosity.
@@jeff_rides I looked at mine, yeah it looks like you'd have to lose your adjustment in order to have the wheel "loose". I think chain on doesn't matter as much as I thought, I think the wood chocks prevent you from jimmying the spindle in I wouldn't worry about the chain being on, sorry about that.
@@GreenBeats11 No worries, I still think you gave some valid tips. Upon review of my own video again, I think I had actually removed my wheel chocks after I pushed the spindle as far as I could. At around the 4:50 mark, you can see that the wheel is able to spin freely. I think next time I do this again, I will screw in the chain adjusters to give the spindle more room to jiggle, and maybe that will do the trick! Another good test I can probably do is to put the spindle through various parts of the rear wheel assembly independently (wheel, spacers, swingarm) to see if it's catching anywhere.
@Joe Garfield Thanks man! I definitely will have to re-edit this video with new footage the next time I have to change my tire again. Glad I was able to help you out a bit!
easiest way to get the axle in, is to sit down and cradle the tire with your feet. that way you can raise and lower it as needed and slide the axle right in there easy peasy.
what size is the socket???
Careful tightening that spindle nut with grease on the threads, that will give you a false torque value when tightening making you go over the value and overtightening, always clean the threads to get an accuracy value, other than that great video
And there's no such thing as too much grease. it just makes life ten times easier on bearings, and you on the next time you're removing that wheel
@@tmarqss thanks for the tip on the spindle nut!
Just wanted to post a thank you. I'm newish to motorcycles and had my first dead tire. Followed your other video to remove and this one to reinstall. Hope to see more content from you in the future.
Also... Damn that's a lot of grease! Jk 😂♥️
Service manua says nothing about using grease, wonder if thats needed?
I didn't read the service manual regarding grease, but I think it's good practice to grease moving parts. I'm just transferring my knowledge from the bicycle world, the grease helps to reduce friction, prevent corrosion, and waterproofs the area. The only downside I can think of is if you over-grease (which I may have done), then it becomes a magnet for dust and dirt. I'm not sure if you can paste links in the comments, but can you lead me in the right direction to find the service manual?
@@jeff_rides The spindle to wheel contact point is not moving, spindle contacts the inner race of bearing which does not move relative to spindle, also the spacers left/right side of wheel dont move. I think it might be useful to put just a little on the bearing race to prevent sticking and help assembly but everything else is just collecting dust imo. I have the service manual but dont know how send it to you.
@@pete_mitchell I completely agree that the inner bearing race, the spacer, and the spindle do not spin with the wheel, and on paper they should function as a single unit once clamped to the swing-arm. However I don't believe that's the case in real world applications with vibrations and bad tolerances. I don't have any supporting materials to back this up, but I think the faint score lines that goes around the spacers should be proof that there is some movement in that assembly. Besides the friction, I will still grease those up for corrosion resistance (definitely not to the extent I did in the video). After seeing the corrosion that some of my road bikes have gone through, I'm not leaving any metal-to-metal interfaces dry.
@@jeff_rides Your bike, do what you want. Any marks on these parts are just a result of assembly, they will absolutely not move during operation. Anyway, have the link for the service manual but won't be posting as your comment shows you won't be doing what it says anyway 😜
@@pete_mitchell I was treating this as a casual conversation on whether or not we should grease the parts since in your original comment you just stated that the service manual did not mention grease (implying that it is unknown whether grease is a bad thing or not). I wasn't stating things to oppose your ideas, I was merely typing out my observations and theories. If the service manual explicitly says that we should not grease those parts at all, then yes, the manual should be followed. And if I inadvertently offended you, then yes I don't deserve that service manual link 😢
Enough with the grease already. OTT.