Can You Make Your Boat Bigger? | Windpuff's Rebuild [S1 Ep3]
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
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The old expression goes: "You can make your boat better, but you can't make your boat bigger". In this episode, we show you why that is not the case, but why people rarely do actually make their boat bigger!
Herby pushes through a series of disappointing failures as he continues working on the boomkin/transom extension. The foam is full of voids, the parts don't line up like they are supposed to, and worst of all, all the landmarks are breaking off and being lost.
0:00 Filling the voids
5:40 Test Fitting on the boat and adjustments
16:22 Calling it a day
17:07 Removing the foam pattern
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Damn, it looks like you had such an perfectly relaxing day! Not at all like some kind of comedy sketch!😂
Haha! A comedy of errors
That thing is an authentic monstrosity !
But I think you are having a lot of fun.
There must be some Frankenstein blood running in your veins, with a hint of Pink Panther.
Homer would also be proud of you and I am too.
Good job!
You hit the nail on the head!
Thank you
I was thinking either wax (which someone else has mentioned) or putting something like plastic wrap on the transom before squirting the foam in. The foam would stick to the wrap, not the transom, and you could remove the wrap with the poop deck. Alternately I'm a fan of the Bristol Channel Cutter... you could just build a boomkin out there and not an entire poop deck. :D
The plan started as a simple boomkin and gradually morphed into this. If we didn’t have the wind vane in the middle of the hole, the anchor could have attached to the underside of the tip of the boomkin and all would be fine. To offset it to the side, one thing led to another and now we have this extension in the works.
I was about to also advice the wrap. Simple kitchen wrapping would do the trick.
Wow, Windpuff's Rebuild is really becoming an incredible journey! Struggles and challenges only make the end result more rewarding. I'm loving seeing the transformation and growth of your boat. It's great to see the joy and adventure shining through, even in the midst of the chaos. Can't wait to see how everything turns out. Keep up the fantastic work! 🖖
This is by far one of the best videos as you keeping the experience real! I would recommend clear packing tape as a non stick surface that will transfer a shape to foam / fiberglass layups. I’m not an expert and look forward to seeing what you end up doing.
Thanks for the suggestion! We are all learning together on this one 😉
@@RiggingDoctorlove your videos great content! Just put a layer of wax ie like car wax or boar wax. I've done this same thing making custom wide body car panels😁
Absolutely crazy idea in every sense best to concentrate on spending resources developing existing hull
I literally am developing an existing hull 🤣
We will answer this question in our live video tomorrow at noon!
I love this sooooooooooooooo freaking much. My marina this year just changed the requirements for liveaboards. You now must have a 36 foot boat (on deck), and mine... Is 35. So naturally I thought of this extension that you made. And it is indeed a legit extension of deck space! But luckily for me, the marina measured my boat and made an exception because its just over 35 feet. They rounded up to 36 for me. But I am loving this you guys! Really makes me want to gain more deck space for solar panels as well. Of course... You will be paying for those few extra feet if you want to moor it in a marina.
CHEERS you guys!
Thank goodness they let you stay!
I laughed thru the entire video. I suggest you first clean and heavily wax the existing transom and mold a fiberglass plug of the transom. Trim it and temporarily screw it into place. Add a plywood backbone with supports to the ground. Fair the backbone to establish the lines along the centerline. Glue pieces of foam sheets to the temporary backbone to build out the width of the backbone to match the deck line. Shape the laminated foam sheets to final shape using a 8” grinder with 80 grit sandpaper. This gives you a plug.
Remove the assembly from the boat and create a female mold using fiberglass over the plug. Using fiberglass, create a fiberglass shell to affix to the existing transom. Finish as neede.
That sounds like a much faster way to go about it!
One of the most entertaining videos!!!! 😆😆 I cant even imagine. But Im SO STOKED to see the final product because I know itll come out great. I respect you so much for doing this yourself.
Freaking love you guys.
You spoke of dealing with compression stress from a swimming platform. You also spoke of using the extension for a stern anchor. I suggest that setting a stern anchor would result in tension stress that would tend to pull the extension off. The proposed self steering would also cause sideways stress that may not have been accounted for. Even tying the boat up to a dock using the extension may be a problem. I wouldn’t even dream of streaming warps in a storm. Bolting the extension to the transom may be much more stress than it was intended to support.
I agree. I'm worried about that long lever arm you are attaching breaking off.
This is why the attachment method will be very involved and robust
Oooooohh....one of them "soul-crushing" projects..........I have a few of those😢
Just watched the video, still smiling. Each to there own with building methods. Defenately need the release agent on the transom. Keep the entertainment coming and don't give up. Cheers bud.
Fire pit party! (for the mold when the final glass work is finished). We used to have a boat in the area of your Windpuff. Not exactly a quick trip from Baltimore. I feel your pain. Hang in there and please let us know if we can help.
Haha! Oh yes!! I can’t wait to torch the pattern. It’s going to blaze 🔥
bro.. great stuff foam is a little tricky to work with, i've worked with it on many occasions, when trying to use it as a fill for a mirror impression, you'll need to lubricate 1 surface, in this case, your boat. librication like vasiline or mineral oil will also work, lube it down real good, then apply foam.. this will ensure foam will not stick to that surface. also, give this a little try, squirt some foam into a tuperware bowl, use a stick and stir, it will release the air, and it will become a liquid again, slowly it will refill with air bubbles, add regular baking flower to the bowl, and mix until its like cookie dowe. then you have about 15 minutes to form it and work with it before it sets up, once it sets up, its like wood!, it will retain the same shape that you formed it into, as the flower prevents the air pockets from forming, you'll be able to sand as normal and paint it.. give it a try on the side to see what you think.
That sounds like an awesome trick! This is what I meant when I said that I’m not experienced with foam and I was finding it difficult. That is an awesome trick but as you will see in today’s episode, I moved over to the world of fiberglass where I am more competent.
Failure is such a wonderful teacher
Indeed
Herb... Too funny dude. 🤣
I am eagerly following to see how it goes.
...taking notes for when I add 2-3ft onto my transom. 😋 😂
Right on!
Duracell project extended it's transome. Check it... They locked the battons in place and built it out with structural material...like carbon, cusa board, honeycomb structural board... Not spray foam or insulation board.. Good luck friend.
If I didn’t have the well for the monitor and I was merely extending the transom straight back, I would have done it that method. I love how their project is coming together!
I don't know if i would mess with.Alberg..
It’s an excellent platform to build upon
Just a suggestion-might be easier. Try like a naval architect. loft the profile of the vertical section of the transom(you might need to cut off the stern) create the new stern shape. And new transom shape. Loft and close. Assure that the aft bulkhead is your attachment. You will need to structurally attach the new piece to connect all bulkheads together in a precise,manner especially including the diaphragm action of a continuous deck.
Option 2. Fix the elegant Alberg boat and Sail it as is.
Cheers
We are going to attach it in a manner similar to what you are suggesting. I’m going to cut holes in the transom and slipping stringers through them. The stringers will tie into the hull as well as profuse tabbing as well as bulwarks which will span bow to stern and also tie it all together.
I was thinking of lofting the developed transom, but opted to just carve it by hand and replicate on the other half.
We will answer this question in our live video tomorrow at noon!
I think my background in 3d modeling really instructs how I'd take this on if someone asked me to do it. I'd bring in a company to 3d scan the transom and the aft 1/4 of the hull. Then I could clean up the scanned model and make it exactly how I want before sending the plug to be foam cut by a shop.
The cost on this might sound a little pricey up front given the cost of bringing in a team to scan it and hiring a company to foam cut the plug. But I'd want real numbers on what my idea costs vs the cost the materials and, critically, your time that you've already put into this.
Keep the mold! Some Alberg 30 owner might want to make a new boat butt, too!
What is the point of this? It doesn't increase LWL. Its not usable as storage. Its just gonna cost you way more at the dock. Why?
It’s an extra bumper for the wind vane auto steer equipment and more room for solar I believe
Hi Herbie. I'm surprised you didn't do layout stations and loft it first. Strip lay it and fare it for a male plug in glass and then tooling gel.
I understand your reasoning to attempt how your building it but it kinda Feels like your trying to work with a sky hook. Wish I lived closer to you to give you a hand Herbie.
Dave Gerr's book came in the mail yesterday and will start crunching numbers tomorrow, it's raining here tomorrow.
Best to you .
Angus .
SV Violet Walters .
As for protecting the wind vane, why not a stainless steel cage. Can mount solar, will look great and offer what you seek.
You really need to let that foam set overnight before you touch it.
Protection for wind vane, extra space for solar and helps for following sea’s. I think that’s what he said in previous video.
this is great entertainment. Keep it up 😁
🫠
I absolutely loved this .....Hilarious!!!
😁
Mold release wax is incredibly useful for this kind of thing - I would consider putting this on the hull before you do this again! (personal favorite is Partall Paste #2).
That's a great idea!
What about packing tape? Use it to stop epoxy sticking to things. Cover transom in tape might be quicker than waxing.
Non-expanding foam might have been better for the fitment to the transom, because the expanding foam might distort the apparent gap.
In the end, I used fiberglass and polyester to record the transom
Tape the open edges before you put the foam in. Leave small gaps or holes to put the foam tube in.
Brilliant.
I could see that coming a mile off! I have one word for you: Saran Wrap (OK that's two words!) Cover the transom in the film keeping it as smooth as possible then inject the foam. The film will come away with your extension and the transom will remain clean.
Take a peek at the newest episode! That’s exactly what I did 😁
The first boat I ever sailed had a canoe extension. It was done in 1920 to accommodate a taller mast and longer boom, so that it could have a chance in the Fastnet race, which almost won.
😁👍
Mold release wax. You can use your topping lift to hold it in place. A couple side lines would brace it while the foam cures.
Definitely should have given it more time
I've been designing a catamaran in my head and being cheap but want a long waterline, I wonder how I can build a strong fold down stern extension that will be used at anchor and passage, but folded up when at dock or paying for boat length at a marina. Same goes for the bows to add hull speed, but kick up when I hit a reef, log, or container and fold up bowsprit to save fees at marinas. The cat is already paying a lot more for the width. Seems like you are willing to try anything. I'm looking forward to all of your projects.
That is an interesting thought experiment!
@@RiggingDoctor Since my brain only remembers things a short time, I also have to document the ideas to see if they make since after gathering new info. I have appreciated the electrical projects you have done also. Having many electric bikes, I envision a pelican waterproof case that can hold batteries of the same voltage as ebikes and trolling motors (likely 48v). I see an advantage to keeping one heavy case in a dinghy, like your 40 lb version, then it is always there. In addition to being charged from the boat, it could be BiDirectional to power the boat if you need a few extra miles. Kevin
I have a thought for the rope expert. I am starting to think how to pull all of the ropes out of my mast so I can recondition them. How do I attach a rat line to the halyards so there will be no jamming? I expect the ratlines to be a thinner section of Denemarken, and maybe the rope end loops will be dynema too. Question is how to join the loop to the line?
If the halyard has a reeving splice in the end of it, tie the messenger line with a bowline and then tape the tail down so that it’s not going to get stuck.
If there is no reeving splice, you want to undo the whipping at the end of the halyard (or cut it off) and pull the core out a few inches, then cut it off. Now slip the core back into the cover and slip the messenger line into the cover in the space that was the core. Once it’s in place, sew it all together so that it’s secure. Sew the cover to the messenger and the core to the same area so that it all stays in place.
The less complicated method to sewing that isn’t as smooth (if you don’t need to slip through a clutch) is to sew the messenger line to the halyard on the outside. This will give a bit of a bump but it should still pull through the shiv fine.
Im curious if you are planning to have a drogue or sea anchor with windpuff? Will there be chainplates attached to your extension (or forward of the extension) for the sea anchor / drogue bridle or would you use the sea anchor from the bow?
It will have structural components to take those loads
We will answer this question in our live video tomorrow at noon!
I feel like I'm watching an SNL skit. I'm gonna have a beer for you.
🍻
I have only done a little with molds, but it appears you need some type of mold release. You might try a layer of saran wrap on the transom. Or a layer of wax paper. Then maybe a removal layer of cut carboard or thin plywood taped over that. But look into different types of mold release materials and methods, specifically that can be used safely over gel coat.
As for your foam mold and filling it. Would covering sections of it with a layer of wide masking tape give it a fillable skin?
I now have gotten proficient at PVA and seranwrap
Struggles and adversity make for the best stories....nobody wants to hear the story about how everything went perfect. You got this, I'm weirdly invested in this retrofit...probably because I love Alberg 30s and your channel 🖖
😎
We will need to figure out what to call it when we are done since it won’t really be an Alberg 30 anymore.
star ship enterprise @@RiggingDoctor
@@RiggingDoctor Alberg 30 RD+ 😉
Herbie's Comedy Special!
😂😅😂❤❤❤😂😅😂
😁
I know you’re a smart guy but I’ve seen you do some dumb stuff with the batteries too so have you done any calculations on the force involved on that piece not breaking off in heavy weather conditions it seems like an immense amount of force could be exerted on that?
Yes sir! A lot of math has been carried out.
Just before you took it down it was looking quite nicely shaped.
Thank you :)
Wax paper is your friend.
Typically, a job like this would be done with sections, not lifts. Then, trimming would be so much easier. And it uses the same amount of foam. You could use the first lift to make your transom gap impression.
You could keep what you have and slice one foam thickness off the fat end, then cut a foam section to replace what you've cut off. Do not glue it to on. Instead, use mechanical fasteners and strips of a strong material, such as maybe aluminum or thin plywood, kinda like a chain plate. Use two screws per strip on on your fabrication, but only one on your section piece.
Put wax paper on the trsnsom, keeping it as flat and fair as possible. Then line the piece up.
Once you have it lined up the way you want it, squirt in your foam.
After it has set awhile, remove the section screws and remove your main piece, leaving the section piece on the transom. Give it plenty of time to cure, then try to remove the section piece.
I hope I haven't completely confused you.
It makes sense and I really should have thought it through better before I started squirting foam everywhere
Hey man - I have a suggestion. The extension you're building is made of conic section, which you can easily make out of curved plastic. Instead of building a solid foam mold, you might want to re-approach this from the perspective of using the natural curves of the boat to extend a conic section out the stern, reinforced with batons.
That would have made this all easier!
Actually, you can buy bendy plywood (4mm thick) that would be easier to work with.@@RiggingDoctor
Use cardboard trace the stern on lower than the top .or waxpaper stern and lay a fiber glass sheet over it a little resin to stiffen for a pattern?
Or get the scanner from the dental office or the way they make impressions
That would be a better way to record it
Wax paper on the hull helps it not stick. I use a portable torch to heat a knife, cuts foam like butter.
I don’t know how I didn’t consider the adhesion of the foam when I sprayed it in there 🤦♂️
Tough day at the office. Retreat, Regroup, Attack. Never say die!
👍
Seeing the quick glimpse of your planned lengthened boat in the side-by-side picture at 00:28, I'm a bit confused by the what's going on with the backstay and the extension. I mean there looks to be a line drawn from the existing backstay to the extension, so I'm guessing that with all the other rigging up forward, there's going to be more sail area before the mast, and some sort of crazy business is being done with the backstay to accommodate a larger main to balance it out (which is definitely necessary on an Alberg 30, as the design already features a mast that was moved aft to rebalance the rig when the sailors who commissioned the design insisted on a masthead rig --- Carl Alberg's original proposed design had a fractional rig --- and this is why the V-berth is so roomy).
If what I think is going on is actually going on, then I have a few words of caution for you (don't worry, I'm going to stop well short of "don't", sticking instead to "here's something you need to factor into your plans"). On my own Alberg 30 (which I sailed for 19 years before getting a bigger boat), I was pretty much religious about rigging up a preventer whenever I was on a run. In spite of that, I still had an uncontrolled gybe that scared the bejeezus out of me (and fortunately, it didn't do much more than that). I was running a split vang to the inner tracks on the deck, so the leeward vang was my preventer, and since it was slack (otherwise the gybe would've been prevented/controlled by it), the boom was also free to pivot up on the gooseneck.
Now the thing about a boom is that if you angle it up to be perpindicular to the backstay, rather than parallel to the deck, it will extend past the backstay, so if the backwinding force lifts the boom by buckling the sail, before swinging the boom around (which it will if your vang is slack), the boom will crash into the backstay on its way around. When this happened to me, I was fortunate that the wind wasn't strong enough to break the backstay and cost me the rig --- and with the hull and rig being as originally designed, I'm fairly confident that the backstay (or likelier its chainplate bolts, since those are what failed on Jean-du-Sud when she got rolled in a storm in the Southern Ocean) is what would've broken first.
So just like it's imprudent to head out with an internal combustion engine and no fire extinguisher (even though an engine fire is unilkely, you still ought to be prepared for it), prudence demands that you to design your extension in such a way that if your boom were to try to swing through the backstay in an uncontrolled gybe, with winds strong enough for this to break the boat in some way (rather than having the backstay stop the boom), then the boat will break in one of the less catastrophic ways available.
In particular, this means that the portion of the hull aft of the mast needs to be stronger than the backstay. I mean consider what happens if you have an event (like my hypothetical uncontrolled gybe with a slack vang in stronger winds) that loads the backstay enough to break the boat. If the backstay yields first, the mast comes down, and you have to either cut it loose or bring it aboard before it slams into the hull too much, and make your way to a yard under motor or tow. Now with the VHF antenna being atop the mast for range, you're going to have a harder time calling for a tow if your motor isn't up to the trip home, but that call would be a pan-pan.
The hull yielding first is quite a bit worse; conditions that can cost you your rig like that are probably also conditions that'll bring water to the place where the hull failed. Roughly speaking, having the hull weaker than the backstay can create a situation in which you're dismasted and taking on water. Because you're dismasted, your VHF antenna is no longer 40' above the water, so your mayday calls are going to have less range. This is a situation that will almost certainly lead to loss of the boat, and stands a significant chance of leading to loss of life.
Fortunately, the breaking strength of 5/16" 1x17 316 stainless wire rope (which matches my best recollection of my old A30s backstay material) is a little shy of 11,000lbs, and the spec weight of an Alberg 30 is 9000lbs (which isn't too far shy of 11,000lbs). What's fortunate is that it gives a reasonably intuitive benchmark for how strong the stern extension needs to be in order not to threaten your life in the way I just described: if you design and build the extension so that you would feel confident picking up the entire boat by it and shaking it around a bit for good measure, then you can probably count on the backstay yielding before the hull does and living to see the next day if things ever go that way.
These are excellent points you bring up and I will complicate them in a second here, which is why I’m glad you brought them up.
1. We are going with synthetic rigging so it will be stronger than wire and therefore won’t fail at the same level. The failure point becomes the clevis pin which is really strong and therefore going to damage a lot before it breaks. Chainplates are supposed to be sized at 4x the breaking strength of wire so once again they won’t yield either.
2. We are going electric so if the rig fails we are SOL!
3. We are not going to have a vang so it would most definitely take the backstay!!
I’m going to be installing a new mast and boom and will be sure to make certain that the boom can not touch the backstay at any angle. I was not aware this was even an issue on these boats so I didn’t think to check that!
The backstay will be split and attach to knees on each corner of the original transom. This backstay will have the adjuster to add or reduce headstay tension while cruising. The additional backstays to the boomkin are to help take the load of people, ground tackle, the dinghy in the davits, and whatever else is back there pulling. They will tie into the backstay above the tensioner and will be a secondary backstay, but not the primary backstay.
I feel confident that I can build this extension and attach it to the boat, but my knowledge of rigging also informs me of the tremendous loads the rigging and supporting parts of the hull will endure. I do not have a way to test this without actually testing it to the breaking point so I don’t want to rely on the extension to keep my mast up. We will also have running backstays to help spread the load and tension the Genoa and staysail stays, but once again, not enough to replace a lost backstay in a storm!
Thank you for the notice as it affects many aspects of the rig design. Much appreciated!
We will answer this question in our live video tomorrow at noon!
Poor guy 😆 - I am feeling the frustrations..
Thank you. It was a very disappointing day.
Just a question, you pay dockage by the foot right? How many feet are you adding to the arse of your Alberg? And why? (I may have missed this in a previous episode). Love your channel. And curious how this is going to end up! Happy Holidays you crazy two!
We are adding 4 feet to the back for a few reasons:
More space for solar panels, protection for the windvane, better in a following sea (hopefully) secure place to mount the stern anchor, and easier boarding of the boat.
Most marinas charge around $2/ft so we are adding about $8 per night which isn’t a huge deal ($60 becomes $68)
We will answer this question in a live video tomorrow at noon. See you then!
I think that pink foam cuts easier or melts. So maybe you could make some type of hot wire to cut it. Pretend its a big very big tooth 😅
😎
I suggest watching The Duracell Project. I bet you could get some good ideas on building your addition. Plus you really need to rent a small work shop...if possible in your aera.
I would have done it the way they did it if I wasn’t making the well for the windvane
I also got a shop to work in 😎 it’s great!
We will answer this question in our live video tomorrow at noon!
Going to take a lot of Bondo to fix that mess. Maybe look for a race car builder to help you out.
This is just the starting point.
If it’s just for solar and wind vane protection could you reinforce the transom and add ss backplate with gusset brackets with aesthetic platform to hole the panels
It’s also because I like the look of a boat with long overhangs
Daphne is a very cool boat. Excited to see the progress you guys make.
Daphne*
I need to refill my popcorn tub.
A lot of popcorn is being consumed right now!
I would have thought you would have tested the spray foam to see if you could remove the add-on. Probably silicone spray, so it does not stick . After seeing what you're
Doing . If i was going to attempt to due that i would rib it in plywood
And use a flexible thin plywood or
Wiggle wood to s shape it
Have you considered cutting the foam with a hot wire?
Much later in the process. I thought it would be expensive and then I saw it for $15 on Amazon and I instantly switched to a hot wire
Turtle Wax! Works great as a mold-release agent off of foam.
Method he used on Duracell seemed to work better.. I can't say I would do it differently because I don't think I would add such an extension. I wouldn't add an overhanging (as in out of the water) extension because it would affect trim. however, I think you have stuff in mind for the front to balance it out. It will be interesting to watch. BTW, my first thought when watching was: "I wonder if he put release wax on the transom" I am sure it will work out in the end...
Haha! I didn’t 🫠
The Duracell method would be the method of choice if I wasn’t going to make the compound curves of the windvane well. That’s why I’m doing it with a mold off the boat.
10:12 “this is just so glorious”🎉🎉🎉
😁
Ok Michigan wheel years ago made a outboard bracket on a rail system. If could find two sets of those you have a possible bumper system/ outboard bracket/ swim step/ hydrovane attachment point/ davit attachment point. Probably a bunch of other ideas also
But honestly it's just aluminum c channel...
I looked them up and see they make a bunch of propellers. Have you seen the sharrow? I’m hoping they come down in price by the time I’m mounting the prop on this boat because they are awesome!
@@RiggingDoctor I think they were discontinued prior to the Internet. I can't find anything online either. But basically it a pair of c channel rails.
@@RiggingDoctor a guy on my dock found a full setup at a swap meet. That's the only reason I know it was a Michigan wheel product. My boat just has the rails.
@@RiggingDoctor I can send pictures if you want.
Definitely not how I would have gone about it.
1) hire a pro to LiDAR scan the boat and produce an accurate 3D model of the hull
2) use 3D modelling software to project the hull to where you want it, and build the transom station, a mid station and the new transom station.
Then, set it all up on a strong-back and build it like any small sheathed strip sailboat build.
Modern tools have their place in the DIY shop. The scanning is not as expensive as you might think. Neither is the cleaned up 3D model bit.
You could even go so far as to have the stations CNC cut and sent to you. There are many local machinist shops that are more than willing help with such unique and interesting projects.
That sounds expensive
@@RiggingDoctor a boat hull is about as simple an object as it gets. You can rent a structured light scanner for about $250/day. The aft half of your boat could be scanned in an hour. The rest can be time spent with free 3D modelling tools.
If you don’t want CNC cut pieces, you could instead print multiple page-tiles and or do the lifting directly yourself onto plywood panels.
Time spent filing foam in the wet and cold vs time spent at a warm dry desk with a CAD model… I know where I’d go.
Who know what else you could scan in the rest of that day of rental. Engine bay with accurate positioning of stringers, stern tube, etc. Interiors for help with remdoeling, missing / broken parts for getting recast (or milled), like custom hinges, fittings, adapters. It is crazy what tools and resources exist and cheaply for this stuff.
We will answer this question in our live video tomorrow at noon!
How about make up the existing transom in CAD, add extention in CAD and then get foam CNC cut?
That sounds expensive
We will answer this question in a live video tomorrow at noon. See you then!
Could layer the foam board flush against the transome and keep layering back. Then shape.
👍 This is what I would do, big square foam sheets glued one at a time from the transom back. Then cut and shape. Will hold itself up no supports needed and you can work the lines in place.
The trouble is trying to carry the lines aft and recreating the development of the transom on each individual piece.
By going longitudinally, I only have to fair up some corners which still flow with the curve.
It makes copying the transom harder but it makes making the piece easier.
We will answer this question in our live video tomorrow at noon!
Poor you! If I wasn't so far away I would go and help you. Courage.
☺️
Great video, remembering what is was like from our circumnavigation in the 1980s, presently sailing the Eastern Atlantic for Brazil. My wife's book is a good read, published by Austin Macauley of New York, and available on Amazon, literally a fictional story of sailing and adventure: "Seychelle and the Cannabis Yachties". It is very entertaining, hoping you will give it a read and review.
I will pass that on to Maddie! Thank you :)
Wow.. you should talk with Aladino from Sailing Magic Carpet. He's a boat builder / repairer.
Can you use the halyard to hold it up?
Yes, and I do later in the build when it gets heavier
You did use some kind of parting compound between that atrocious thing and the transome, right? You do know how sticky spray foam is, I hope. I would have stretched something like pallet wrap or Saran Wrap around the stern and sprayed the foam against that. Not the boat hull. Why, exactly, are you adding this extension anyway? It doesn't seem to add anything except length on deck and extra cost in docking fees for the extra length.
What have I missed?
I went over the reasons in the last video, but basically, more space for solar, protection for the windvane, help with following seas, offset the weight of the bowsprit
@@RiggingDoctor Sorry. We are in the process of moving and I'm actually working backwards for a couple of weeks because I didn't have time to do them all. My
bad.
If I were doing it I would use 1×2 battens and fasten them to the hull to get a fair curve.....as a female mould....use contoured airex or similar.....and lay up the glass from the inside. Of course you'd still have to do layups on the outside as well. Tremendous work for questionable gain.
That would be the method of choice if we didn’t have the well for the windvane, but the curves are too complex to make with that method so I need to make a mold and build it that way.
If it was somenody else doing that but Rigging Doctor, who appears to quite clever, I would think, at this stage, that inmate is hobbying in a closed lunibinn yard, sorry. It will exiting to see the final result, certainly hope everything turns out well. Interesting You Tube videos this Rigging Doctor, thank you.
👍👍👍
Is that boat 1/4 moisturizing cream?
it's worth getting even the great stuff gun applicator. even if only one big job i think its 30 bucks
Adding a longer transom will give more windage in bad weather and will effect steering plus any big wave that hits you, I wouldn't like to know the outcome. Fair winds to you
Wisdom has a 10 foot overhang and does really well with following seas. I wanted to gain those benefits here by creating a “boat tail”
We will answer this question in a live video tomorrow at noon. See you then!
I'm really glad that you decided not to practice dentistry.
Ouch
@@RiggingDoctor Kidding of course but Im sad for that beautiful boat with classic lines.
You should see the plans, we are going “extra” on the classic 👍
I don’t know, this just doesn’t seem structurally sufficient at all. It looks like the first decent transverse wave will just knock the added section right off. The first thing that came to mind is battens. I would suggest popping the stern cap off, and extending the wooden battens off of the original structure, then make seaworthy how ever you wish. It kinda seems like you’re doing the opposite, and I get it, but it’s got to be structurally sound first before seaworthy. Wish you luck with the new boat and the project!
This is the pattern to make the mold to make the piece. The final piece will be tied into the boat very well, while this is a foam dingleberry hanging off the back of the boat
@@RiggingDoctorAppreciate the update - I obviously missed that point. Cheers!
You do look like Chevy Chase,those gummy bears are pretty good aren’t they 😊
😎
You clearly know what you're doing.. 🤣 Entertaining for us viewers at least... 😝
😎👍
Like the concept.... But in following sea you need something providing strength to the counter which has buoyancy (forces).... what"s your plan?
Lee helm from the Yankee at the tip of the bowsprit.
Wisdom has a 10 foot stern overhang and it works great in a following sea. The waves break under the stern and we stay dry. The full keel holds us on course and we don’t broach. Hopefully this works out the same way
attachment method to hull????@@RiggingDoctor
Glue and prayers 😂
It’s going to be connected properly
cannot tell if you ar e joking or not....... glue is useful but unable to bond a wad of foam like ton frp hul exterior@@RiggingDoctor
If you could design and produce a boat stretcher that would stretch a boat 2 feet, you'd make a *FORTUNE*. :D
Sell the patent to Boston Whaler 😂
Go pick up an electric carving knife at a garage sale will save you a ton of time carving foam
I don't like to criticize other people's work, but I don't get the point of extending the transom of the boat so much. You'll end up paying a lot of cash for a big boat, but you'll still have a short waterline, thus a slow boat. Dont get me wrong, I totally get the point of sailing a small boat. But if you want a bigger boat you should get a bigger boat. This way, you get the bad parts of a small boat and the problems of a big boat in one package.
Im still enjoying your videos, so I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
The addition is only 4 feet so the added cost is minimal.
Poor Herby! ❤
😊
also, i think this road your going down , is going to be riddled with problems, such as when you go to try and fix that thing to the boat.. how do you plan to do this? i think you need to check out parlay revival, and see how they did their sugar scoops, their methods are a bit more "standard" when it comes to making extensions, also another good one to check out is born again boating, as he also uses a few different ways to attatch stuff like this. but i really think this foam method is not going to work out well for you.. more trouble than what its worth.. just saying..
The windvane hole makes this whole process “non-standard”
Why not use the marine product designed for filling space with foam?
Because this is the pattern and none of this will be incorporated into the actual piece.
in dental, in composites, in life, seperator is your friend! sorry you re having so much trouble.
I used to use a lot of vasoline to keep acrylic from sticking to model teeth. I should have thought about that before starting here 🤦♂️
So a swim platform?
That’s how this whole idea started. To be big enough the supports would be under so much compressive force that it would be a risk of punching a hole in the hull!
Spreading the attachment out over more area just morphed into extending the platform with fiberglass. In order to maximize the attachment while also making it fit with the lines of the boat, the plan became to extend the transom into a boomkin.
The sound of cutting Styrofoam = fingernails on a blackboard.
It’s awful!
I watched your video "Is My Boat Strong Enough to Become Bigger?" and thought you were smart.....................then I watched this video.
We all have our moments…
@@RiggingDoctor I hear you Man. I do re ta ted things all the time too.
I think that’s just being a real person 🫠
6:47 - 6:50 what was that?
Possibly a fart?
@@RiggingDoctor I think its your boat trying to say that she likes big buts, and will love new implants.
😂
You know in a seaway it's going to snap off?
I have devised methods to attach it properly
@@RiggingDoctor consider using 1" stainless with opening for the wave to pass. Light, strong and pleasing to the eye.
I don’t like the way tubing looks on a boat.
We will answer this question in a live video tomorrow at noon. See you then!
I hate working in a boat yard
I would have draped the stern with a plastic sheet or a thin tarp.
That would have saved the day! Later on I thought of doing that and it worked nicely
😂❤👊😎
Im trying to work out if I should stop drinking
or drink more ....
You should have a beer while you decide
Well the good news is I won a bet with myself that the foam would stick to your hull. It doesn't seem that you've researched this at all or maybe your specialty is rigging and not FRG. Didn't you have a bigger boat before? I just started watching you.
We still have the 45’ Morgan. I didn’t think it through when I sprayed the foam in there. I did think about it after it was in there and all I could do was hope :(
Might wanna re enforce it a bit better before ya put the wind vane and solar panels on and dont forget the VW campervan..,
It’s got a long ways to go
Errr…a little worried about this addition…lol.
that looked like a disaster
but a moderate one
Haha! It was a disaster
Why not go out the sides too? Put some pontoons out on each side. That way you can remove the keel. its a waste of time anyway. Wait Ive got a great idea - buy another boat thats the same and bolt them together. Two boats going in the same direction is a winner. &)
Both of these options end up with a multihull which I don’t trust on the ocean. They wouldn’t put escape hatches under them if they didn’t flip and stay flipped!
@@RiggingDoctor yeh I don't like them too
Some people will do anything to create a video for UA-cam.
Buy a bigger boat, can’t wait until your insurance company gets wind of this 😂
I already have a 45 foot boat that I crossed the Atlantic on twice. These are changes to make this boat have stuff that is necessary for a capable cruising boat.
As for the insurance company, I have always been intrigued by people who rely on the insurance as a crutch. “Don’t worry about the anchor you choose if you have good insurance” “don’t improve your rigging or batteries without the insurance companies approval”. Everything seems to rely on a third party overseeing the way you use your own boat.
I have been next to a boat that had a big hole in the side and they were waiting about a month for the insurance company to send someone to look at it so that it could get fixed. For that month, the core was getting rained on and the issue was getting worse each day. The owner wasn’t concerned because “I have good insurance!” Meanwhile, we carried out repairs and got launched in two days after buying a bit of fiberglass and epoxy.
People seem to think that the insurance company cares about your boat when the truth is the insurance company doesn’t want to pay money. You building, repairing, maintaining, and caring for your own boat is better than any adjuster who is paid by the insurance company to deny your claim.