Zanussi ZBF 560 X oven repair, clock keeps resetting to 12.00 and making buzzing noise.
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2024
- Here we have a 10 minute repair to my own Zanussi ZBF 560X Oven.
Please note when attempting this repair the capacitor MUST only be replaced with a class X2 type , do not replace it with just a standard 680NF capacitor . - Наука та технологія
I've been trying to troubleshoot this with fairly limited knowledge of relays myself.
I knew the relay was the only moving part to my clock board and the only part that could make the noise, however after replacing the relay it was still having the issue.
Thanks heaps mate. I was stuck until i found this video and it instantly made sense as to why the brand new relay is still making the same sound 👍👍👍
the voltage across the relay is too low to fully latch and then when more LED segments light up the voltage drops further causing the relay to chatter ., glad you found it useful , my oven has never missed a beat since I changed that cap .
@@michaeldranfield7140 Awesome. My oven still makes the same noise again after a few days of changing the capacitor now 😆.
I'm stumped now because i don't know enough about how the board works in full to figure it all out.
Something might be damaging the capacitor? I have no idea, but i'll be pulling it apart to have another go.
Interesting that you mention it becomes worse when extra segments of the lcd light up, because i believe that was the case for me too.
Anywho, thabks for this video 👍 It has me on the right track. If i could bypass this entire clockboard i would, but i'm not qualified to do any modification like that 👍👍 So i'll keep it the same
@@sparkoceanic its important to note you cant just fit any capacitor of the correct value , it has to be a class X cap or class X2 I cant remember without watching the video again , the board is only a timer , if your not bothered about using the clock or timer function you would just have to link over the relay contacts .
@@michaeldranfield7140 It's a class x2 in my case as well 👍 I took it to an electrical supplier to buy the replacement but the problem came back a few days later unfortunately.
I might just give that a shot though. Worst case scenario is it just instantly pops the rcd when i go to turn it on if i short anything i guess.
That buzzing sound is bloody annoying when it starts up every so often. I haven't actually taken note when it's happening worst, but i think you're right when you pointed out the reason it happens.
Cheers mate
@@sparkoceanic if a new cap cured the fault for a couple of days it is possible your cap is faulty, especially so if its a dubious brand , a lot of fake and poor quality parts are in circulation these days .
Very nice. I a home where no electronics guy is present this oven would just have gone to the landfill. First class enviromental kindness here.
I know , makes me cry when I go to the tip and see skips full of electrical appliances which could easily be repaired for next to nothing going to be crushed and shredded .
Thanks for sharing. This was my exact failure and fix for my Electrolux EOU43003. For anyone who attempts this repair try to find a 680NF x2 R46 capacitor (they're around the same size as what's removed here.) First time, I tried replacing with a small yellow 680NF x2 capacitor off amazon and the clock would turn on and die rapidly.
Thank you for sharing, Michael!
MD Anyone else would have a knee jerk reaction and buy a new oven. I love your can do attitude, especially as you didnt have to buy a new cap!
I just dont like throwing things away, even more so these days where everything is crap and only last 18 months anyway .
Another nice job and another appliance saved from a landfill site 👍
Many thanks for watching.
That was another great video. Thanks Michael.
Many thanks for that.
Very nice i I've said it before and I'll say it again Electronic circuits and temperature don't match Good video Thanks for posting
Thankyou for watching .
I've seen this problem numerous times in washing machines, cookers, etc. Class X capacitors lose capacitance as they are constucted to fail 'open'. And of course sometimes the smoothing electrolytic is to blame. My customers were quoted eye watering sums to replace boards which had a very simple fault.
Many years ago my mains operated smoke alarm started bleeping just like a battery one does when the battery is going low and this turned out to be a low in value class X cap .
Fantastic man of many talents
Many thanks for watching.
Thanks Michael, some great tips there.
Thankyou for taking the time to watch .
@@michaeldranfield7140 Michael, just wondering if you ever saw those announcements in 70's and 80's the IBA used to do for the "radio and television trade". If you did watch/hear them did you find them useful?
I used watch them but never understood them at the time, but can remember hearing things like "vertically polarized group b aerial is required". That's what got me into electronics as hobby as young boy! Thanks IBA! And thanks to you to Michael 😁
@@pairojeans I cant recall seeing those adverts but didnt watch TV very much as a kid anyway , I was too busy repairing them !
Great video
Glad you liked it , a lot cheaper than replacing the whole pcb .
Ahh nice one Michael, I’ve had quite a few Xclass caps cause issues mainly on vestel Tv supplies.
Ive got a question for you. Today I repaired this Chinese Led Party speaker with a non stop humming when connected to mains. I couldn’t figure out why, so I added 2 more 2200uf lytics in parallel on the output of the PSU and it sorted it. Much to my confusion all of the other capacitors tested fine esr and capacitance wise. The hmm remained until I added higher value caps then it went away. Just wondering if you’ve any idea what could cause that ? The guy said it didn’t do it from new and it only just started. All grounds and earths are fine, all resistors on the amp pcb test ok, every capacitor in the Psu tested fine. I was going to get the scope on it, but it seems to be working perfect now and I’m pretty limited on time at work atm.
This is always a problem when a fault goes away when you disassemble something , , best thing to do is remove the extra caps and measure the ripple frequency across the secondary smoothing capacitor , if its 50 Hz the problem lies with the bridge rectifier diodes, if its 100 Hz regulation on the LT rail could be poor due to a faulty voltage regulator or leakey transistor in the power supply .
Wish I had a quid for everytime I've had this problem! From experience I've found that the Chinese variety of these caps have a short life, never had one self destruct yet like the old Rifa caps, but they virtually always fail prematurely. I always replace with high quality, non Chinese caps.
must as you say be down to poor quality parts , I made a mains powered remote control tester in 1999 using a watless dropper for the power supply and its still running today , its been plugged into the mains for the last 22 years without any failure .
I am a repair technician for electronics and white aplliances, and I have different experience.The worst capacitors i came across were the new RIFA(by Cemet blue colour) and Slovenian ISKRA(grey colour). I replace them with Chinese(yellow colour type) from the local store and from my opinion they are better than some brand names.
A fine example of manufacturers taking shortcuts to save a few extra dollars (pounds) on every unit by using a cap and a resistor to derive a low voltage supply instead of using a small PC mounted transformer. I hate the idea. There's no isolation from the mains meaning your low voltage circuitry is floating at mains potential and if the cap shorts then your IC and everything else goes BANG with it.
Class X2 caps are designed to fail safe and should not short but I must say I was shocked to see the mains is fed straight to the capacitor without any fusible safety resistor in series with it and seemingly no low current fuse either ,so unless there was a hidden fuse somewhere this board is effectively connected to the mains via a 30 amp fuse in the consumer unit .
Cheers for this! Didn’t fancy paying £150 for a whole new clock unit! If the buzzing has also stopped after a while (we used the oven for about a year with this failure) would you assume a failed relay also?
I would imagine as the relay is carrying a high current after a long period of use the contacts will burn so it wouldnt do any harm to replace the relay as well.
becoming a very common faul an i know of one local company that charges £96 for a new clock rathe than repair this simple fault
I have just had a look on ASWO and a new board is £44.85 plus vat so I guess £96 is not too bad if it includes fitting but better to repair the board yourself for a couple of pounds.
It's very much a throw-away world where any kind of electronic repair is now limited to board changing. Technicians aren't being trained to repair to 'component level' (as is done by Michael in this video) because so many items use PC boards that can't be easily repaired like that. I learnt how to do component level repairing back in the 80s when I left school and started in electronics, and it's a skill I have honed over the years. Consequently I am really busy.
@@sw6188 there are worse examples like a hotpoint washing m/c where something jams the drain pump blowing a surface mount mosfet .trade price for a new board £ 149 plus VAT so over £200 for the repair as apossed to £1.50 for a masfet and £48 for a new pump .
i know of these problems because my brother works for a well known white goods sale and repair company.
@@robtitheridge9708 I have done my fair share of appliance repairs over the years and I agree absolutely with you. Ultimately they don't want you to just replace the MOSFET and the pump - they want you to buy a whole new board (or a whole new machine!)
Planned obsolescence is what it's all about. If they designed and manufactured things properly, we could keep them going for decades with just a few small parts replaced here and there as time went by.
Можно ли продолжать счёт времени при отключении электроэнергии?
Hi! Thanks for the tip on how to repair this problem, but i have a question - would the oven work without the timer/clock, if i just took out the broken part?
yes , you could by pass it if you dont want the timing function .
Following on from this. How would one bypass it? Just take it off the board? I have no experience with electricals but just bought my first house and having exactly the same issue you had. I don’t know where to buy a capacitor or solder but would be happy with no clock as long as buzzing stopped
@@jakeyboy2929 I opened the front panel and as I could not get the capacitor out I just deattached the wires which were connected to the electricity panel. Now the oven is working (already baked a brownie in it :D) but the timer panel is shut down, so it doesn’t work/buzz anymore.
@@RebekaKrieva great so are those wires ok to just be dangling around in there? I might do the same. How many wires were there to disconnect?
@@jakeyboy2929 have no idea, hope so! :D there were 2 blue wires.
We’re not bothered about the clock or anything on it working are we able to just unplug it?
you cant just un plug it, but yes you could un plug it and link the live and neutral over so you dont have a clock or timer function .