I’ve biked most of my life, use to race when I was young and bullet proof. I have never heard, No Big, Big, No Small, Small, And in the Middle you can go anywhere at all. I get asked what gear should I use and have tried to explain how and why you use what gears, what the ratio and target cadence should be, and I see their eyes go deer in the headlights. But your no big big and no small small, anywhere in the middle… thing, that’s brilliant and explains the basics oh so well, it’s 5 year old simple, I love it. (5 year old it, is what I tell people when they are being to technical or complicated with their explanation, I tell them, “OK, now explain this to me like I’m 5 years old”. It’s sounds silly, but people will instantly simply their direction every time. I’m using you Big big, small small thing, it’s simple but brilliant. Nice video. 👍
1:50 I always thought that tadpole trikes have a huge chainstay (distance between the bottom bracket and rear axle), so cross-chaining is not an issue for them. Is that true?
Should have watched this before my first ride. Messed up my knee doing exactly what you said would happen. Very helpful video. Hoping others do their homework first.
I don't have a trike yet, but a Kona Sutra tourer. If I want to go all day, will ride at 90-95 cadence, but occasionally go to 80-85 cadence to give the muscles a bit of work.
1:45> cross chaining is only a problem on a diamond frame bike not a recumbent, as the length of chain allows the angle of chain that a diamond frame does not. Big big , small small, is fine but you may find that it is really superfluous as the gear inches may be better not doing it. Currently my 2005 Rans Rocket has been modified to a 16 speed My 8th gear is the same as my 12th gear. As I use the second chain ring for almost all rides and the first chain ring only for towing on hills , it is convenient to be able use every gear if necessary. For cadence I tend to spin at 85-90 rpm with short high speed spins above 130 rpm but I am using short crankarms vs what came with my recumbent. The stock170mm ,are now 153mm ,which gives me all the power and a higher spin but less flex to the knees. BTW small increment shifts gives you the advantage of having another gear where you can maintain your cadence ,without clunking into the next gear and losing your cadence only to build up to it again. As I can not spin my high gears unless down a hill , I have reduced the top end in favor of better incremental gears.
Nice but can you please explain proper knee or leg expansion so one is pedaling properly and not destroying ones knees, legs, hips, or ankles? Thank you.
Thanks for your excellent videos. I’ve gone back to 2 wheels with a StreetMachine but I’m having some major issues going up hill and hill starts are impossible. Is it just me or are these bikes really not designed for hilly Scotland? An easier gear means I’m not going fast enough to steer straight.
Remember those old penny farthing bikes from the 1800s? They only had 1 gear and that was the wheel size the bigger the wheel the faster you could go. When 5he "safety bicycle" came along with both wheels the same size and different gearing was introduced they came up with a formula for comparing wheel size between the 2btypes of bikes. On your tadpole divide the front chain wheel by the gear on the cassette. Say 45 divided by 15 = 3. Now multiply 3 by the rear wheel diameter if it's a 24 inch wheel you'll get 72. That means you are pushing the equivalent of a 72 inch wheel. It works for all wheel sizes. If you have equal size gears say 34 front and a 34 rear then the wheel size becomes the size of the gear you are pushing if it's a 20, 24 or 26. This works for trikes and bicycles as well.
Nice video! Though with my recumbent I notice when cross chaining small/small the chain length itself is too long, so the derailleur will collapse (in that case the chain would be rubbing itself) However when I am cross chaining big/big the chain is long enough that my derailleur is extended to the maximum stretch. And since the chains on recumbent are so long overall it think it does not really matter to go big/big because there is almost no angle (keep the derailleur relaxed though is advice) - however small/small should really be avoided due to the chain length is my two cents.. I run 3x9 Deore - but the point is that chain length is not covered in this video and could be something to take in consideration when explaining the gearing for recumbents.. The cross chain philosophy is actually more for normal bikes with shorter chains and more about the chain angle.. Again with recumbents chain length also comes into play.. Cheers..
How does the gearing on a recumbent trike compare to other bikes? I ride a. 16" wheel Bike Friday and generally push 60-80 gear inches. Would that change on a heavier 3 wheeler? I see a lot of entry level. recumbent trikes only go to around 55-60 gear inches.
Odd question-I recently purchased an ICE sprint X used and I’ve taken it out multiple times. The front gear shifter moves continuously (it glides side to side) where as the rear gear shifter moves in click increments. Should they both click or is it normal for the front gear to simply slide?
The front derailleur is "non-indexed" so you can make micro adjustments to it's position. The rear derailleur is indexed --one click, one gear. Hope that helps
I read 3 articles and watched one video. I was still confused until I watched yours. Thank you.
I am glad it was helpful. Thanks!
I’ve biked most of my life, use to race when I was young and bullet proof. I have never heard, No Big, Big, No Small, Small, And in the Middle you can go anywhere at all. I get asked what gear should I use and have tried to explain how and why you use what gears, what the ratio and target cadence should be, and I see their eyes go deer in the headlights. But your no big big and no small small, anywhere in the middle… thing, that’s brilliant and explains the basics oh so well, it’s 5 year old simple, I love it. (5 year old it, is what I tell people when they are being to technical or complicated with their explanation, I tell them, “OK, now explain this to me like I’m 5 years old”. It’s sounds silly, but people will instantly simply their direction every time. I’m using you Big big, small small thing, it’s simple but brilliant. Nice video. 👍
Thank you, the front cog explanation is super helpful.
This advice is good for not just recumbents, but all bikes with 3 gears in front and more in back. God Bless
1:50 I always thought that tadpole trikes have a huge chainstay (distance between the bottom bracket and rear axle), so cross-chaining is not an issue for them. Is that true?
Should have watched this before my first ride. Messed up my knee doing exactly what you said would happen. Very helpful video. Hoping others do their homework first.
Love your approach, informative but you kept it simple..GREAT JOB!!
Wow, that makes sense! Thanks for making it easy to remember.
I don't have a trike yet, but a Kona Sutra tourer. If I want to go all day, will ride at 90-95 cadence, but occasionally go to 80-85 cadence to give the muscles a bit of work.
Thank you. This is great!
1:45> cross chaining is only a problem on a diamond frame bike not a recumbent, as the length of chain allows the angle of chain that a diamond frame does not. Big big , small small, is fine but you may find that it is really superfluous as the gear inches may be better not doing it. Currently my 2005 Rans Rocket has been modified to a 16 speed My 8th gear is the same as my 12th gear. As I use the second chain ring for almost all rides and the first chain ring only for towing on hills , it is convenient to be able use every gear if necessary.
For cadence I tend to spin at 85-90 rpm with short high speed spins above 130 rpm but I am using short crankarms vs what came with my recumbent. The stock170mm ,are now 153mm ,which gives me all the power and a higher spin but less flex to the knees. BTW small increment shifts gives you the advantage of having another gear where you can maintain your cadence ,without clunking into the next gear and losing your cadence only to build up to it again. As I can not spin my high gears unless down a hill , I have reduced the top end in favor of better incremental gears.
Thx for this video! How about one on how to use e-assist such as the Bosch system.
super helpful! thanks
Nice but can you please explain proper knee or leg expansion so one is pedaling properly and not destroying ones knees, legs, hips, or ankles? Thank you.
Helpful video. Thanks!
Thanks for your excellent videos. I’ve gone back to 2 wheels with a StreetMachine but I’m having some major issues going up hill and hill starts are impossible. Is it just me or are these bikes really not designed for hilly Scotland? An easier gear means I’m not going fast enough to steer straight.
Remember those old penny farthing bikes from the 1800s? They only had 1 gear and that was the wheel size the bigger the wheel the faster you could go. When 5he "safety bicycle" came along with both wheels the same size and different gearing was introduced they came up with a formula for comparing wheel size between the 2btypes of bikes.
On your tadpole divide the front chain wheel by the gear on the cassette. Say 45 divided by 15 = 3. Now multiply 3 by the rear wheel diameter if it's a 24 inch wheel you'll get 72. That means you are pushing the equivalent of a 72 inch wheel. It works for all wheel sizes. If you have equal size gears say 34 front and a 34 rear then the wheel size becomes the size of the gear you are pushing if it's a 20, 24 or 26. This works for trikes and bicycles as well.
Nice video! Though with my recumbent I notice when cross chaining small/small the chain length itself is too long, so the derailleur will collapse (in that case the chain would be rubbing itself) However when I am cross chaining big/big the chain is long enough that my derailleur is extended to the maximum stretch. And since the chains on recumbent are so long overall it think it does not really matter to go big/big because there is almost no angle (keep the derailleur relaxed though is advice) - however small/small should really be avoided due to the chain length is my two cents.. I run 3x9 Deore - but the point is that chain length is not covered in this video and could be something to take in consideration when explaining the gearing for recumbents.. The cross chain philosophy is actually more for normal bikes with shorter chains and more about the chain angle.. Again with recumbents chain length also comes into play.. Cheers..
How does the gearing on a recumbent trike compare to other bikes? I ride a. 16" wheel Bike Friday and generally push 60-80 gear inches. Would that change on a heavier 3 wheeler? I see a lot of entry level. recumbent trikes only go to around 55-60 gear inches.
Odd question-I recently purchased an ICE sprint X used and I’ve taken it out multiple times. The front gear shifter moves continuously (it glides side to side) where as the rear gear shifter moves in click increments.
Should they both click or is it normal for the front gear to simply slide?
The front derailleur is "non-indexed" so you can make micro adjustments to it's position. The rear derailleur is indexed --one click, one gear. Hope that helps
@@BentRevolution Helps a lot, thanks for the quick reply! Happy Triking!
Just to be clear, the general principle is the same as with bike gears, a recumbent is NOT fundamentally different!