I don't see myself ever getting to a project like this in my lifetime. Its such a pleasure to enjoy it with you, step by step and in such detail. Thank you for sharing this with us.
As a dead-tree enthusiast I have to salute your liberal approach to clarifying and purifying work areas. It is a well-known fact that the ghosts of dead trees not only enter the souls of those who work with the material, but will take up residence in the machinery in any shop. It helps to spend weekends in the shop ritually screaming at the wood rack to keep the demons that live within out of the rest of the shop. But, as you can imagine, it isn't fool-proof. The only real solution is prudent and often exorcism. I often keep a 1/32nd scale hanging near the stock to remind them who's boss.
@@brianhaygood183 Those who have worked with wood enough will know the mighty 1/64th. But that is only useful with hard woods, the soft woods just will not handle such fine work.
I don't have any of those tools or machines and at 70 I am unlikely to start this hobby. My blacksmithing, model HO railroad and black powder hobbies are enough. That being said I LOVE these videos! Your voice and humour and the skill of your presentation are mesmerizing! I have watched all of your videos and have been following your current boiler build with fascination. Keep up the GREAT work. Thank you.
Hi Tim. Don't give up the idea. If nothing else, go, buy one of those cheap Chinese mini lathes. Yes, I know that they are horrible, at least I should as I just bought one. I do agree with one of the people that reviewed one, they are more of a kit than a fully working machine. But still, you can cut even still, with passes at as much as 10 thousands of an inch. The one I bought came from Vevor, not that it is any different than any of the other ones, but Vevor seems to demand that the actual maker does at least some basic quality control. It came with everything needed to get started. I expect to have to put around 100 or so hours into making it good, but it's a start. The final goal for that stupid machine will be to make it a full CNC, with the saddle and cross slide running on ball screws for the drive. Absolute encoders on those shafts, perhaps something better than just the simple quadrature ones. There was one from Yaskawa I was playing with a decade or so ago, insane resolution and memory of turns.
16:32 "The machine is my temple. Each one a sacred shrine. I name each piston blessed, and every gear divine." -Hymnal of Engine Commencement - Codex: Adeptus Mechanicus
Interesting video. Just after the start, my cat climbed up on the arm of my chair and watched the entire video with me. At the end, she got up on my desk and tried to move the boiler with her paw. I now believe that she was a machinist in a prior life.
Beautifully done, Quinn! I love the way you often take the longer path to accomplish your goal; allowing you to get more practice using your best tooling. I also really enjoyed the 'blessing of the ways'.
Everyone knows you need dry red chillies, salt and a copious amount of spit to drive the cooties out - your anointing may or may not work. A very good job on the boiler so far, pushing the small lathe and mill to their limits is inspiring to watch.
I love this channel. Sticks to machining, keeps it fun, is not a promotional video for things and the best part is decent amount of machining in a single video and not milking the operations for content. Keep doing what you’re doing!!
I follow quite a few channels, but your videos are the ones I really look forward to every Saturday. Even if the project itself doesn't really interest me, I learn so much from how you approach it. Thanks!
Despite never having caught the steam bug in the way that you have (I'm a biker rather than a modeller), I'm enjoying this series so much, Quinn! With your care, precision and humour, I'd tune in just to watch you make a cheese sandwich and probably learn a whole bunch of stuff on the way. Charlotte
So on the subject of boiler checks there are two schools of thought. Below the waterline here is the older school of thought, the problem with it is that the check valves have a habit of becoming crudded up with scale. I'm a fireman at the Colorado Railroad Museum and all of our engines have this style of check where it feeds below the water line. Our two older ones RGS 20 and D&RGW 346 have a particularly interesting style of check valve where it's the same casting as the snifter valve on the steam chests but used differently. 346's check's are particularly annoying. We have hard water so scale build up is a significant problem and the check's being below the water line creates an issue with scale build up. This scale build up can cause the check to not seat properly and leak which then causes hot water/steam to leak back to the injector. This leaking also introduces the opportunity for steam cuts which require and annoying amount of lapping to fix. The injector partially operates on a temperature differential and the injector getting hot will cause it to not function properly causing the engine crew to revert to colorful language. More modern engines like the D&RGW K-28's have top mounted checks where the water enters the boiler through the top above the water line and this totally eliminates the issue of scale build up on the checks. We actually use the pressure reduction from introducing cold water into the boiler as a part of operations. The intent of introducing water into the boiler is to replace the water that has been consumed by steam. When the engine is working hard the draft is increased and the fire and heat transfer get going. However once you shut the throttle off you have a situation where you rate of steam consumption has decreased significantly but your rate of steam production has remained constant. So introducing cold water into the boiler calms it down and prevents you from lifting the safety. We take water injections in 5lb increments of pressure reduction. You can take larger reductions but that can lead to thermal expansion issues so as a standard practice we limit it to 5lbs. This issue of pressure reduction from cold water injection is an issue with efficiency though and more modern engines had feedwater heaters in addition to injectors that preheated the water before it went into the boiler to reduce that pressure and efficiency loss but that's a whole 'nother world.
I actually had an involuntary chuckle when you pulled the copper tube out with the plywood ends, after watching you line up the centers with the indicator. Great entertainment. Thanks for another great watch !!! Always entertaining !!!
Not being particularly intrested in railways and steam engines I had somewhat disregarded your channel, but after you constantly popping up whenever I needed good advise on how to do a specific machining I started watching and wow what a well of knowledge this is and now I'm always looking forward to all your builds. Still not intrested in steam or railway but all in it for the machining!
interestingly enough, your method for starting the steam dome hole is surprisingly prototypical, steam locomotive manufacturers would just take a big drill and bore holes in the boiler in a circular pattern to make holes like that, some steam locomotives you can even still see the rough edge from where those drills were used when you take the top off the steam dome, iirc Hyce has a good video that shows that
It's actually a very good method if you stop and think about it. Were you to try and cut the hole in a single step, you would load so much stress into that boiler that you would never get it back to good. By drilling lots of smaller holes, the stresses get a chance to sort themselves out.
Thanks for your efforts to thwart the cooties ...I've heard those cellulose-based ones can be ...pretty ...tricksy!! Thanks for the video Quinn, helps a lot!
In addition to fixturing, I bet the threads gives some extra purchase to the solder. Like how Adam cut threads into a shaft journal before rebuilding it with the spray thingy.
The threads provide two things, positioning to a good degree and then, given that there is a small amount of actual space between the threads, a place for the solder to flow through the joint. This is better than a slip fit, where the part can come into full contact on one side of the hole while leaving a larger gap on the other side. I like the tip so much that I do believe that I will thread all my future projects that require soldering, where the method can be used. Much better than trying to build a jig to hold a part in place.
Gotta say, love how you mocked in the bell! Lol Loving this series as much as the rest of your series, and can hardly wait for next installment! Thanks Quinn! 🤓
I always look forward to the next Blondihacks episode. Yay! And perhaps lighten up on the caffeine, from your genuine Blondihacks coffee mug, before the "regular speed" chain milling. It made me nervous. Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
I've always wanted to built a live steam model loco, and here's someone doing a fantastic job of it. And helping me realize I've got a lot of learning to do. Thanks for this great series!
Machinist "Alright this is .000002 which is close enough to the .0000019 specs." , Woodworkers" "Watch as I chuck the insanely unbalanced 30kg hunk of tree on my lathe and some how not loose an appendage while stabbing at it"
An addition to the boiler exploding due to the firebox melting: many if not most big steam locomotives (the ones that were actually used for train services) also have a fusible plug - basically a lead plug inside a shell that bolt into the top of the firebox, that will melt before the rest of the firebox melts - the escaping steam will at the very least alert the fireman that the water level is too low and the fire should be put out or dumped.
The safety plug on our stovetop pressure cooker was also a lead plug. It blew out once when spaghetti (with sauce) was reheated in the cooker. The ceiling had a big red stain, until the painter came. An old memory from when I was a small lad. 😊
As for the foot stock, if you can not make it perfect, make it adjustable. And you did. :-) I loved the exorcist method of removing dead tree particles from the mill.
You could theoretically find the center of a large diameter by indicating it with your wiggler pointer thing. Of course youre then not allowed to move your Z axis. By using that method you can also indicate small holes quite accurately.
r, \theta, z is the cylindrical coordinate system. It’s very convenient for cylindrical things, like infinite length wires, optical fibers and boilers.
“It’s really starting to look like a boat I mean boiler” Wait, have you been watching Leo and Tally Ho? That would explain why she showed up in my feed again a while ago.
when you're aligning the axis of the rotary table with the centre of the mill, could you not do that using an edgefinder before putting the shell in, using the alignment bar, and then save that in your DRO?
Great video, fun and informative. Adding an A axis to a mill is always useful. Good pointers on setting up the soldering by putting in threads, again a useful idea, provide built in fixturing and space for the flow of the solder. But I do have a question. When you were doing the cleansing and blessing of the mill after removing the detritus of the vile organic material, did you use the correct oil? Remember, there is a difference between coniferous and deciduous, one produces soils that are acidic the other base. There is also the matter of the types of faerie and other spirits that are attracted to the tree products. I hope your blessing gave them notice that the thing to which they are attracted is no longer in the machine. This will help with keeping the mill clean, we all know what faeirie dust will do to a clean metal surface. The same with those pesky pixies. Keep up the good work, you and your sense of humor make me smile. For an old fart such as myself, smiles are something to latch onto.
I've been watching your channel with dedication since I discovered it, I always learn something, and (nearly) always think, "oh, right, that's a good idea." But... you use the pointy end of the edge finder in a way that I don't understand, it seems more prone to error. But maybe I'm doing it wrong. I use it by lowering the quill and putting the point in the feature I'm trying to locate, then moving the table in X and Y until my fingernail no longer catches on the edges between the pointy bit and the shaft. I can't think of a reason for the pointy bit to be movable from the shaft otherwise. I'd think with your method you'd be better off with just a rod with a point on it, that would save you having to center it each time, and reduce the risk of knocking it off-center. Obviously my way only works if I'm centering on something the point can center on. It doesn't work on a printed line, for instance. But it works on grooves or drilled holes or punch marks or even scribe lines if you're careful to not lower the quill too hard. (and the surface is square to the quill)
I was wondering why "Pennsyvania A3 Switcher" seemed so familiar and then I remembered: Glenn Miller's "Pennsylvania 6-5000." Numbers I've got by the dozen Everyone's uncle and cousin But I can't live without buzzin' Pennsylvania Six, Five Thousand
In utility scale boilers the temperatures are way above the melting point of the metal. These are 2400 psi boilers. We had a superheat tube blow and it flopped around like a fire hose cutting other tubes in the process. One of the welders told me the superheat tubes were like a gordian knot Amazing how metal tubes get all floppy when they don't have proper cooling.
Metal is actually just like rubber, but a bit stiffer. Add heat and all bets are off. This is why when machining hard, you want to see those bright blue chips. This tells you that most of the heat of cutting is going into the chips instead of the part.
I don't see myself ever getting to a project like this in my lifetime. Its such a pleasure to enjoy it with you, step by step and in such detail. Thank you for sharing this with us.
I can't even imagine a Saturday without a Blondihacks video anymore. Congrats on such a long flawless streak!
Yeah. It's the highlight of the week.
@Delisson_Goncalves In New Zealand we live that horror every week (the time zone means that Blondihacks comes out Sunday morning here).
I'm same. Blondihacks vid on sat after work as is tradition.
@David Haywood I'm across the ditch in West Island. I find it a relaxing way to start my Sunday mornings.
Fr
As a dead-tree enthusiast I have to salute your liberal approach to clarifying and purifying work areas. It is a well-known fact that the ghosts of dead trees not only enter the souls of those who work with the material, but will take up residence in the machinery in any shop. It helps to spend weekends in the shop ritually screaming at the wood rack to keep the demons that live within out of the rest of the shop. But, as you can imagine, it isn't fool-proof. The only real solution is prudent and often exorcism. I often keep a 1/32nd scale hanging near the stock to remind them who's boss.
I sense an imposter. No dead tree enthusiast knows what 1/32 is.
*whispers*: I see dead maple.
Thank you for showing us yet another way to skin a dead ……. Never mind.
@@brianhaygood183 Pfft. Everyone knows it's a made up unmeasureable value.
@@brianhaygood183
Those who have worked with wood enough will know the mighty 1/64th. But that is only useful with hard woods, the soft woods just will not handle such fine work.
I don't have any of those tools or machines and at 70 I am unlikely to start this hobby. My blacksmithing, model HO railroad and black powder hobbies are enough. That being said I LOVE these videos! Your voice and humour and the skill of your presentation are mesmerizing! I have watched all of your videos and have been following your current boiler build with fascination. Keep up the GREAT work. Thank you.
Hi Tim.
Don't give up the idea. If nothing else, go, buy one of those cheap Chinese mini lathes. Yes, I know that they are horrible, at least I should as I just bought one. I do agree with one of the people that reviewed one, they are more of a kit than a fully working machine. But still, you can cut even still, with passes at as much as 10 thousands of an inch.
The one I bought came from Vevor, not that it is any different than any of the other ones, but Vevor seems to demand that the actual maker does at least some basic quality control. It came with everything needed to get started. I expect to have to put around 100 or so hours into making it good, but it's a start.
The final goal for that stupid machine will be to make it a full CNC, with the saddle and cross slide running on ball screws for the drive. Absolute encoders on those shafts, perhaps something better than just the simple quadrature ones. There was one from Yaskawa I was playing with a decade or so ago, insane resolution and memory of turns.
16:32 "The machine is my temple. Each one a sacred shrine. I name each piston blessed, and every gear divine." -Hymnal of Engine Commencement - Codex: Adeptus Mechanicus
Properly appeasing the Spirit of the Machine after cutting *wood* upon it? The Omnissiah would approve...
@@EuelBall Now, now- the first machines were made of wood...
@@mattl3729 In the setting I'm thinking of, wood for machines is...fairly rare. 😄
Interesting video. Just after the start, my cat climbed up on the arm of my chair and watched the entire video with me. At the end, she got up on my desk and tried to move the boiler with her paw. I now believe that she was a machinist in a prior life.
'kin hell Quinn, that was so good to watch, 1:15 to 5:23 included so many words strung together coherently, my nerdiest was most pleased.
Nothing like a Blondihacks video to cap off your weekend.
Beautifully done, Quinn! I love the way you often take the longer path to accomplish your goal; allowing you to get more practice using your best tooling.
I also really enjoyed the 'blessing of the ways'.
I am going to try to explain to my wife that that is why I have so many unfinished projects. Stay tuned.
@@brianhaygood183 Yeah, call yourself 'DaVincian'- he rarely finished anything (supposedly) either; that's what I do ;)
@@mattl3729 Oh, well at least we are in good company.
"Most adorable hole" Just adorable.
Everyone knows you need dry red chillies, salt and a copious amount of spit to drive the cooties out - your anointing may or may not work. A very good job on the boiler so far, pushing the small lathe and mill to their limits is inspiring to watch.
I love this channel. Sticks to machining, keeps it fun, is not a promotional video for things and the best part is decent amount of machining in a single video and not milking the operations for content. Keep doing what you’re doing!!
I follow quite a few channels, but your videos are the ones I really look forward to every Saturday. Even if the project itself doesn't really interest me, I learn so much from how you approach it. Thanks!
Despite never having caught the steam bug in the way that you have (I'm a biker rather than a modeller), I'm enjoying this series so much, Quinn!
With your care, precision and humour, I'd tune in just to watch you make a cheese sandwich and probably learn a whole bunch of stuff on the way.
Charlotte
As long as we find out whether the holes in the swiss cheese are bored, drilled, or punched.
@@kensherwin4544
I myself go for EDM. That is of course assuming that I am not 3d printing the cheese component.
idk what it is about copper but seeing it machined and shiny is always so satisfying.
Copper is a beautiful metal- the first humanity ever used; so I like to think it's a deep species memory now ;)
I love your humor.
Because of You, every time I cut something off there's "Yahtzee" in my head
But what is the meaning of Yahtzee in this context? Why not gin, or for that matter tonic?
Love the anointing ceremony. It matters.
Anointing the mill! LOL love it
Fabulous attention to detail! My wife and I watch your videos together.......
I love watching your videos. I'm working on Robert Maynard's Clishay locomotive. Thanks for helping me learn!
You are full of creative imagination for setups. Great lesson for me. Thank you so much. I indeed enjoy this video.
So on the subject of boiler checks there are two schools of thought. Below the waterline here is the older school of thought, the problem with it is that the check valves have a habit of becoming crudded up with scale. I'm a fireman at the Colorado Railroad Museum and all of our engines have this style of check where it feeds below the water line. Our two older ones RGS 20 and D&RGW 346 have a particularly interesting style of check valve where it's the same casting as the snifter valve on the steam chests but used differently. 346's check's are particularly annoying. We have hard water so scale build up is a significant problem and the check's being below the water line creates an issue with scale build up. This scale build up can cause the check to not seat properly and leak which then causes hot water/steam to leak back to the injector. This leaking also introduces the opportunity for steam cuts which require and annoying amount of lapping to fix. The injector partially operates on a temperature differential and the injector getting hot will cause it to not function properly causing the engine crew to revert to colorful language. More modern engines like the D&RGW K-28's have top mounted checks where the water enters the boiler through the top above the water line and this totally eliminates the issue of scale build up on the checks.
We actually use the pressure reduction from introducing cold water into the boiler as a part of operations. The intent of introducing water into the boiler is to replace the water that has been consumed by steam. When the engine is working hard the draft is increased and the fire and heat transfer get going. However once you shut the throttle off you have a situation where you rate of steam consumption has decreased significantly but your rate of steam production has remained constant. So introducing cold water into the boiler calms it down and prevents you from lifting the safety. We take water injections in 5lb increments of pressure reduction. You can take larger reductions but that can lead to thermal expansion issues so as a standard practice we limit it to 5lbs.
This issue of pressure reduction from cold water injection is an issue with efficiency though and more modern engines had feedwater heaters in addition to injectors that preheated the water before it went into the boiler to reduce that pressure and efficiency loss but that's a whole 'nother world.
Great info- thanks for sharing!
Cool idea to use what amounts to cold water to dampen the steam production.
I actually had an involuntary chuckle when you pulled the copper tube out with the plywood ends, after watching you line up the centers with the indicator. Great entertainment. Thanks for another great watch !!! Always entertaining !!!
Plywood???? Is that what that strange stuff was?
Not being particularly intrested in railways and steam engines I had somewhat disregarded your channel, but after you constantly popping up whenever I needed good advise on how to do a specific machining I started watching and wow what a well of knowledge this is and now I'm always looking forward to all your builds. Still not intrested in steam or railway but all in it for the machining!
If nothing else, her setups are worth the watch. Always amusing and informative.
I have learned so much, plus I love your sense of humor.
Cylindrical coordinate system. I'll never make a steam locomotive, but the machining content is A+++, as usual.
interestingly enough, your method for starting the steam dome hole is surprisingly prototypical, steam locomotive manufacturers would just take a big drill and bore holes in the boiler in a circular pattern to make holes like that, some steam locomotives you can even still see the rough edge from where those drills were used when you take the top off the steam dome, iirc Hyce has a good video that shows that
It's actually a very good method if you stop and think about it. Were you to try and cut the hole in a single step, you would load so much stress into that boiler that you would never get it back to good. By drilling lots of smaller holes, the stresses get a chance to sort themselves out.
As others have said: I love the set up you used to place these holes. Elegant, and a pleasure to watch!
Maple syrup flannel shirt... Nice!
Thanks for your efforts to thwart the cooties ...I've heard those cellulose-based ones can be ...pretty ...tricksy!!
Thanks for the video Quinn, helps a lot!
I especially appreciate the bell end of the boiler *giggle*
Thanks for the video
In addition to fixturing, I bet the threads gives some extra purchase to the solder. Like how Adam cut threads into a shaft journal before rebuilding it with the spray thingy.
More surface area!
The threads provide two things, positioning to a good degree and then, given that there is a small amount of actual space between the threads, a place for the solder to flow through the joint. This is better than a slip fit, where the part can come into full contact on one side of the hole while leaving a larger gap on the other side.
I like the tip so much that I do believe that I will thread all my future projects that require soldering, where the method can be used. Much better than trying to build a jig to hold a part in place.
Watching you reanoint your mill just said to me that you'd be GREAT to play D&D with.
Or 40K, for that matter.
Ah but what is her alignment? I myself am Chaotic Neutral, I wonder what Quinn would be?
I love your ritual cleansing of the mill!😀
Yay!!! It's Blondihacks time!!!!
Marvellous work. I've made a few boilers and missed most of these tricks, but not any more. Thanks
This locomotive is going to be a thing of beauty.
I'm looking forward to the completed prototype.
Gotta say, love how you mocked in the bell! Lol Loving this series as much as the rest of your series, and can hardly wait for next installment! Thanks Quinn! 🤓
Laughed out loud at the ritual anointing 😂
You’d be plunge milling. A really cool operation when done on a big scale in a cnc
This series is the best part of my day every time you upload.
It's so exciting seeing a very small train get made.
I always look forward to the next Blondihacks episode.
Yay!
And perhaps lighten up on the caffeine, from your genuine Blondihacks coffee mug, before the "regular speed" chain milling. It made me nervous.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
I've always wanted to built a live steam model loco, and here's someone doing a fantastic job of it. And helping me realize I've got a lot of learning to do. Thanks for this great series!
OMG OCD meets precision machining!
Very nice. A pleasant way to spend my Sunday afternoon.
Machinist "Alright this is .000002 which is close enough to the .0000019 specs." , Woodworkers" "Watch as I chuck the insanely unbalanced 30kg hunk of tree on my lathe and some how not loose an appendage while stabbing at it"
I just about died at the ritual cleansing of dead tree cooties. 🤣
if the locating keys are on the "centerline" of the dividing head you can locate the center of the table slot before putting the part in the chuck
This is far bigger than I thought it was going to be....exciting
An addition to the boiler exploding due to the firebox melting: many if not most big steam locomotives (the ones that were actually used for train services) also have a fusible plug - basically a lead plug inside a shell that bolt into the top of the firebox, that will melt before the rest of the firebox melts - the escaping steam will at the very least alert the fireman that the water level is too low and the fire should be put out or dumped.
The safety plug on our stovetop pressure cooker was also a lead plug. It blew out once when spaghetti (with sauce) was reheated in the cooker.
The ceiling had a big red stain, until the painter came.
An old memory from when I was a small lad. 😊
@@robert_g_fbg
So that memory is spot on?
more surface area on a thread for solder I would think too. on something that thin I’d think every micron is important.
Loved the anointing with way oil!!!
Great fun as always, thank you for all the extra time it takes to film a job.
As for the foot stock, if you can not make it perfect, make it adjustable. And you did. :-) I loved the exorcist method of removing dead tree particles from the mill.
These videos never fail to make me smile. Thank you!
She appeased the machine spirit by anointing it with oils and incantations; I knew she was a Tech Priest...
It’s always nice to be a perfectionist at or !! Great work Quinny !!
I have injectors on all of my 3.5 locos :)
They work but it's an art form
A steam powered model boat would be a neat model after this
Most accurate boiler I've ever seen, lovely :)
Top job Quinn
Loved the set up Quinn,everything went well.👍👍
Watching this while cooking.😄
Praise the Omnissiah and the machine spirits inhabiting your mill. Wood may rest but rust never sleeps.
I actually enjoy the "hole" video! Shalom
Another great video, by far my favourite machining channel. Keep up the great work 👍🏻
I am hooked with this Pennsylvania A3 switcher project; many thanks for sharing these videos! :)
In the trade when we use mill fixtures we use double side tape to keep the fixture in place.
Very impressive work and informative as well. I don’t have a mill, lathe, or any of the associated equipment but always enjoy your videos!
Am I the only one who burbs their Saturday morning until a new episode comes out?
Very enjoyable to watch. Thank you. 👍
You could theoretically find the center of a large diameter by indicating it with your wiggler pointer thing. Of course youre then not allowed to move your Z axis. By using that method you can also indicate small holes quite accurately.
r, \theta, z is the cylindrical coordinate system. It’s very convenient for cylindrical things, like infinite length wires, optical fibers and boilers.
“It’s really starting to look like a boat I mean boiler”
Wait, have you been watching Leo and Tally Ho? That would explain why she showed up in my feed again a while ago.
Living this project. Thanks as always for sharing your work with us. 🙂
Use your tap guide instead of a center drill for pinching the scale and then it's hands free
Good tip.
Nice thought. I shall have to put that one in my book.
I am waiting for the making of the adorable bell
Before I retired, I was often "heated and beated" by my job. 🤣
Very nice sweater!
50 years from now, someone will seriously do the way oil ritual, saying, “I can’t remember where I learned that but I know it’s important”.
Beautifully done! Great narration also.
Dead tree cooties! Steam shop gremlins! -and the forever present though never seen Murphy! One does have to be prepared for anything now-a-days!
when you're aligning the axis of the rotary table with the centre of the mill, could you not do that using an edgefinder before putting the shell in, using the alignment bar, and then save that in your DRO?
Thats how I would have done it, but like anything in this hobby there are many ways to do the same thing and all are valid.
Hello Swarfy!
Nice work and thank you for taking the time to share.
Great video Quinn!
great work Quinn
You make amazing things i learn from these video's keep it up :)
Praise be to the holey boiler. ✝☦🔯🕉☯🧘♂
Great video, fun and informative. Adding an A axis to a mill is always useful. Good pointers on setting up the soldering by putting in threads, again a useful idea, provide built in fixturing and space for the flow of the solder.
But I do have a question. When you were doing the cleansing and blessing of the mill after removing the detritus of the vile organic material, did you use the correct oil? Remember, there is a difference between coniferous and deciduous, one produces soils that are acidic the other base.
There is also the matter of the types of faerie and other spirits that are attracted to the tree products. I hope your blessing gave them notice that the thing to which they are attracted is no longer in the machine. This will help with keeping the mill clean, we all know what faeirie dust will do to a clean metal surface. The same with those pesky pixies.
Keep up the good work, you and your sense of humor make me smile. For an old fart such as myself, smiles are something to latch onto.
Damn, I was waiting for the SIHP. Fun video!
I've been watching your channel with dedication since I discovered it, I always learn something, and (nearly) always think, "oh, right, that's a good idea." But... you use the pointy end of the edge finder in a way that I don't understand, it seems more prone to error. But maybe I'm doing it wrong.
I use it by lowering the quill and putting the point in the feature I'm trying to locate, then moving the table in X and Y until my fingernail no longer catches on the edges between the pointy bit and the shaft. I can't think of a reason for the pointy bit to be movable from the shaft otherwise. I'd think with your method you'd be better off with just a rod with a point on it, that would save you having to center it each time, and reduce the risk of knocking it off-center.
Obviously my way only works if I'm centering on something the point can center on. It doesn't work on a printed line, for instance. But it works on grooves or drilled holes or punch marks or even scribe lines if you're careful to not lower the quill too hard. (and the surface is square to the quill)
Very good content. I’m looking at metal lathes now.
Sweet work!
11:20.... Adorabell?
Nice job!
nice boat!
I was wondering why "Pennsyvania A3 Switcher" seemed so familiar and then I remembered: Glenn Miller's "Pennsylvania 6-5000."
Numbers I've got by the dozen
Everyone's uncle and cousin
But I can't live without buzzin'
Pennsylvania Six, Five Thousand
In utility scale boilers the temperatures are way above the melting point of the metal. These are 2400 psi boilers. We had a superheat tube blow and it flopped around like a fire hose cutting other tubes in the process. One of the welders told me the superheat tubes were like a gordian knot Amazing how metal tubes get all floppy when they don't have proper cooling.
Metal is actually just like rubber, but a bit stiffer. Add heat and all bets are off. This is why when machining hard, you want to see those bright blue chips. This tells you that most of the heat of cutting is going into the chips instead of the part.