I had a leaking tail to the isolation valve. I was so closed to change the flexi tail but after watching your video I realised its the washer that got cut into. Bought the adapters and washers from Toolstation and changed both connections in less than 10mins. Problem solved and less than 6 quid spent. Thanks for such great video.
Another intriguing video :) dad is exactly the same with his tools, he's a maintenance electrician at Cardiff Uni Hospital and every day comes home with something new. "It was going to waste" or "I might need this" Mum is so used to it now. His shed is absolutely ram packed with everything and anything. Was going to buy a flexi and the uproar was insane. "I've got 20 odd flexis in the shed! Never buy something, check with me first" lol
I found this upload almost by accident but the information given here and the suggestion to fit an isolation valve MEANT I WAS ABLE TO CONNECT A GROHE TAP TO EXISTING HOT AND COLD SUPPLY WHEN I HAD NO IDEA HOW I WAS GOING TO GET THE FLEXI-TAIL TO FIT. I was unable to get a flat isolation valve locally so had to use the standard isolation valves. Thanks for posting, you saved my installation and I have now got the tap on securely.
After a complete botch job from a “Handy Man” and simply investigating his errors, this video put me in the right direction, ordered the bits, took me about 45 mins to remove his botch job and fit new flexi tails and flat faced isolators.. top job… great vid… no more leaks.
I'd just like to say thankyou so much for this clear video, I bought a tap off amazon with no adapters and didn't know how to connect properly to pipes ( I had a female end on flexible pipe) and I wasn't overly sure how to proceed. I did the steps you followed ( bought adapters from Tool station, I used some ptsfe tape too), all connected and working plus no leaks and more importantly no expensive plumber costs.
I went into buildbase in Lincoln and asked for fittings to go onto female tails. The guy there said he had never seen anything like that. All plumbers just go straight onto iso valves. I said the ends are not designed for that. He looked confused. So went to tool station and found the male tail adaptors in your video and did a proper job. Shows most trades men don't even do it right.
I'm not sure how long the flat-faced valves have been around for, I think the tap tail adaptors have only been out a couple of years. Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great video. As a DIYer doing my bathroom and toilet I only recently discovered flat faced isolation valves to connect up to the tap flexi hoses. Interesting I couldn't source from B&Q or Wickes but Tool Station were able to assist and the tap instructions never mentioned them! A compression isolation valve will fit but won't be as reliable and could destroy the rubber washer. A recent leaking washing machine at my mothers turned out to be a saddle tap the builder had fitted which failed. Had to cut the pipe and fit an in line tap. You live and learn.
Thank you for the awesome information you provide! Gettin ready to do my kitchen tap that leaks slightly from the tap. Crawled under after coming home excited to finally fix it with the new one to discover the hose fittings are different on the copper plumbing and wont fit the ones on the tap! Well now I couldnt do that today because I do not have the proper parts and glad I watched your video so I better understand what I need to get for adapters! Frustrating to think I was going to slap it in and have to wait now to make another trip for the parts. Thank you! The older we get the more we develop patience!! House wad built in 1900 and farmers owned it so lots of rigging and so on as farmers tend to use what they have laying around Lol!!
Great video as usual, thank you. I've installed a bidet seat over this weekend and found that hand-tightening the flexi tails was inadequate and had to nip-up the tails with a spanner both at the T connector and the flexi pipe female terminations. I also made the mistake of leaving a stubborn olive in situ, hoping that tightening up the compression nut would be OK. BIG mistake, so I've ordered an olive remover. Lessons learned! Interestingly, I noticed that a male flexi pipe tail connects to the female flexi types and can be joined to make a longer run. I doubt this is good practice, particularly since the male tail does not have flat ends. Needs must in the short term at least...
This info was exactly what I was looking for as I was concerned about using normal compression fitting to attach a flexible hose. This video shows that I can do this but that there is a better way, which I will use if I can find the fittings
Thanks - but what I was hoping you'd show is how to unscrew the M10 end of the tails from a monobloc tap where the plate they screw into is recessed 25mm into the casing of the tap. They were screwed in just by turning the hose, hand tight obviously, and never leaked, but trying to remove them the threads have stuck and the hose just spins on the end fitting. I need something like a narrow M10 basin wrench. I see box spanners sold for monobloc taps, but they won't fit over the 1/2" BSP female on the other end.
Thanks for this presentation. Good to find someone who knows what they're talking about . There are a lot of merchants wouldn't know their BSP from their elbow - seriously. My background is carpentry, but I actually enjoy the occasional spot of plumbing.
Thanks so much for this. I was trying to figure out how to best fit flexi hose to isolating valve and this video was exactly what i was trying to imagine.
Great video thank you for the simple explanation and demo, I have bought a couple of the flat facing isolating valves because of this, I would never have known the potential problem with the older style!
Just wanted to thank you for your excellent video all about flexi tails and how to use/connect them…properly!! I’m a keen DIYer with basic plumbing knowledge, just fitting a new shower and needed to use flexi hoses - your video has helped me out no end. You Sir, are a legend and have helped me out no end 🙏 you even name-checked the viewer who recommended the flat-faced isolation values…and even a short “on-the-job” video of using the adapters!!! Keep up the great work, I will definitely be following you and sharing links to your videos/channel - thank you again 👍😉
Just looking at a flexi tail tap I'm about to fit. I have the isolation valves for use with olives and looking at the end was thinking the same thing re not flat so I thought I'd have a look on youtube to see if there were particular fittings for this type of connection. Thank you for answering my question. Good video.
My mixer tap came with short copper tails, so I used flexihose with compression ends to connect it to copper pipes top and bottom under the sink, I opened up the isolation valve and after about 30seconds, the flexihose compression end on the tap tails blew off! the missus said I should've had the taps open when opening the isolation valve, to let the air in the pipes out, I reconnected the flexi pipe and left the tap on this time, and all seems ok at the moment.
Bullshits. I am a professional plumber. It doesn't matter if the taps are open or not. If it blew off the olive wasn't good, was missing or you just didn't tighten enough the compression fitting.
@@ultimatehandymanThanks mate, I have this exact job to do this weekend, and I was concerned about putting the ends in the taps without tightening them with a tool.Thanks for the video. 👍👍👍
I had some leftover tail pieces from some thermostatic radiator valves I fitted as the tail piece was the same as the old valve. I found these tail pieces were ideal for use in fitting a new pair of taps. I was able to put one end into the isolation valve whilst leaving a flat edge for the tap tail to thread into.
Yes, the olive should be supplied with the isolation valve. I prefer copper olives, so I normally buy 20 or so from the local plumbers' merchants in Blackburn, then throw the brass olives in the scrap 😉 Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Good video, thanks. Why do you prefer copper olives? Is it because they're a bit softer than brass and more likely to give a good seal?
Yes, the copper olives are more ductile and compress much easier. I only ever use brass olives if I have run out of copper ones! Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video - thanks! I used to just attach flexi tails direct to isolation valve/equal tee etc but this definitely seems more robust. For info I checked a few had fitted over the years and none are leaking that were fitted directly.
Super useful, exactly what I was looking for! Knew it was best to have a flat mating face but couldn't remember the options. 👍 Also, didn't know about the handy tightening of the hose tails! 🤟
Just discovered the smallest drip from the connector on my flexitail under my kitchen sink and considered doing an emergency callout but after watching this video, I might as well just nip over to B&Q and learn how to do it myself
Very helpful video thank you. Have you seen female tail ends with an O ring as well as a washer? When I disconnected the tail under a basin tap - that had been in situ for ~18 years - it looked as if there was a black ring (looked like an O ring) around the outside of the bore and then possibly a washer behind that. Or is it just a rubber washer that's been squashed by being attached to a tap for 18 years?! Thanks.
Thanks. Helpful video. At 5:20 you quite rightly recommend RTFI with regard to being told to connect up the part being shown, finger tight. However when I tightened the joint that the instructions recommended finger tight, it leaked! So I had to nip it carefully with a small spanner anyway. Clearly my finger tight is not as finger tight as the instruction writer.
Some instructions are really unclear. Speedfit makes a flexible tap connector, push-fit on the pipe, and nut on the tap end. The instructions say no tools required 😂 Thanks for the comment
Appreciated this. I had been fitting them the same way thinking there must be a better way of doing it but just couldn't find the right thing in a search. Sometime you just need to know what something is called. Ta
First time doing a bit of plumbing and the video was super helpful to change our basin tap. One flexi tap connector on using an isolation valve and tap tail adaptor will little issue. But the second flexi tap is about an inch too short (the old flexi tap connectors were fine length wise), what is the best way to extend the copper pipe without soldering.
@@ultimatehandyman Nice! Thanks for this. I was thinking (after researching) cutting the copper pipe a bit further down and inserting a compression coupler. Would this still work (the top of the pipe has an isolating valve with tail tap adaptor like this video, works a treat on the other pipe which was a bit longer)?
It's an interesting question as to the life-span of flexible tap tails. Our house was restored between 1998 and 2000 and was fitted with flexible tails in at least 8 places and have not been replaced since. I wonder if the fact that we have a pressure reducer set to 2 Bar immediately after the stop tap and thus limiting the pressure on all the plumbing is significant. I'm planning a "dilapidation" scheme to replace them (though some are going to be "fun" to get to). I'm about to replace some basin taps soon so may well do a pressure test on the tails I'll remove at that time to see how degraded they have become.
That’s a great question. We have 8 Bar pressure here and fitting a pressure reducing valve is a job on my list (but it involves breaking away a load of tiles to gain access to the incoming mains). A friend of mine had a burst flexi and it made a right mess of his house, it brought down ceilings and ruined kitchen units etc.
@@ultimatehandyman Many thanks for the reply. 8 bar sounds pretty high. I think the flexis are good for 16 bar cold and 10 bar hot though I don't know how much higher than that the ultimate is. While I'm doing pressure tests it would be interesting to take a new hose and find out what they can take. We had a flood on Christmas eve morning. A rat had chewed through the washing machine hose. Thankfully it's an old farm house with a stone floor so it was nothing more than an early spring-cleaning job! The only other flood we had was at the en-suit mixer tap. It had been plumbed in small bore copper right to the tap which you would have thought was bullet-proof but it fractured right where the pipe exited the tap fitting. Luckily we were in and it didn't have time to take the ceiling down. We now shut the water off if we are going out for more than a few hours. BTW - I had to replace the pressure reducer after a few years. The plumber who fitted it put the strainer on the output side of the valve which made sure the silt accumulated in the valve. (he also used a non-pressurised cylinder on the pressurised hot water system but that's another story!) edit: Thinking about your pressure reducer installation, would it be easier to use more than one and fit them where it's easier to get to even if each one only covers part of the system.. We have the luck that there is a stop tap under the sink where the water supply comes in so it is easy to put the reducer immediately after that stop tap.
I did pressure test a flexi in this video a few years back, it held up well- ua-cam.com/video/IOTD6QZRWqw/v-deo.html There always seems to be a weak point in a plumbing system, a few years back I had a fibre washer split on the bath tap, which resulted in a badly damaged ceiling. I replaced that with a push fit tap connector, as it was the only thing I could use- ua-cam.com/video/eqECFK42PKQ/v-deo.html&t I was intending on just installing the one pressure reducing valve of the whole house, as close as possible to the incoming stop tap, but I don’t know what the set up will be like, as its behind a tiled wall at the moment.
@@ultimatehandyman Many thanks for the heads-up to the pressure test video. 50 Bar+ isn't too shabby for something rated at 16 bar! I must confess to disliking fibre washers. I had one fail on the bleed point on a car radiator (luckily no damage to the engine) so I searched around and found a Dowty seal that fitted in its place. I subsequently replaced the fibre washers on the bleed points in the loft associated with the hot water cylinder with this type of seal. Not looking forward to having to do anything to our bath taps - zero access without moving the bath which will involve taking units out as well.
You are welcome 👍 Fibre washers are not good, especially when they split and leak all over the place. Baths are a major problem when you need to replace the fibre washers or the tap itself, often because they are butted against a wall with hardly any access. I’m sure that they could come up with a better way, if they put some thought into it! I really struggled with the one that split here- thanks god for push fit tap connectors! Best of luck with yours 👍
Many thanks for the explanation. I need to multiply a cold water supply for a standard dishwasher hose and for a mixer tap's flexible connector pipes, 450 mm long and 3/8''. Can you please tell me what kind/size of connector and adapter should I use?
I would not start to join flexi pipes together, it is better to extend the pipes, then use the correct length flexi. The easiest way is to use plastic pipe and push fit fittings- ua-cam.com/video/Z83vlwUyZIw/v-deo.html Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video. On the connection of tails to tap however, my taps mixer leaked from the first fitting. The advice was to hand tighten only, but after several attempts I decided to use tape, and then finally grip and tape. The leak is still there and I wonder if these fittings aren't just inherently problematic?
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks for your reply. The rings are intact and undamaged. The leak is certainly from the connection and not due to fraying. Shall try another unit altogether. All the best.
Interesting video! Thanks for keeping us updated of the exciting evolutions in the plumbing world :) Seriously, where else would a DIY'er get this kind of info. In the stores they'll tell you anything to get rid of you/make you buy something, or they simply lack the knowledge. Thanks a lot as always for all the info you put out! btw, in Belgium it's sunny and warm, although quite windy as well. Excellent sailing weather!
Yes, they should be in the pipework on every water outlet, but to be honest, sometimes they can cause more problems, especially if they start to leak. Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks! I’m going to be changing my first tap in the next week or so and wasn’t sure what to do with the current copper pipe fittings. This has helped a lot! Thanks
If the insulation valve has a tapered ending you could probably just file and sant it a little to dull it down and prevent it from cutting into the rubber washer, I suppose. Those connections don't seem to need to be tightened with a lot of torque anyway.
Great video - thanks! I usually do these things by logic/ what I dismantle but those couple of lessons are really useful for a basin replacement I am doing.
Excellent tutorial. I have a question, perhaps you know an answer - I have connected flexi pipe male side to female side of an elbow connector. But it's leaking from the joint. I have put a fibre waaher between flexi-male and elbow-female. Used ptfe, no luck. Any suggestion?
Hi, Looking at the isolation connector it looks to me as if they have just put the end onto a grinder and removed some of the thread?. I had not seen these but from now on I will be getting the new ones as I always use an isolation valve because you never know when you are going to have to isolate that tap, and they are so cheap that it is worth every penny. I have seen flexible pipes with the isolation valve as part of the pipe.
Nice vid... if you can't get your hands on. purpose made fittings just adapt a ballofix or straight compression coupling by running it over a sharpening stone to give a flat edge.. may save you a tripvto the shop :)
Excellent tutorial. Thanks. My kitchen tap blew the swivel arm out last night so that's going in the bin! I'm fitting a new tap this weekend. Do I need to use olives with the isolator adapters?
Thanks, this bailed me out in a moment of complete brain fade. These days (2022) the 15mm-1/2 BSP adaptors are available from Screwfix and Toolstation too.
Beginner question: I'm going to fit a flexi hose to my bath taps.... When I purchase the flexi hose, does it come with everything you need? Or do I need to buy a separate compression nut which goes on the copper pipe? Thanks.
It depends which flexi tails you are using. Some have a compression fitting at one end, but others need to connect to a flat faced isolation valve, examples here- fave.co/2PlcA0E
That’s a smashing accent you’ve got there. Any advice for removing some old tails that are attached to some fragile seeming copper pipe work? I wanted to replace when I did the taps but ended up leaving the old tails in place because when I gave it some welly the pipe work was turning and I was worried about damaging it under the bathroom floor. I suspect it just needs replacing..
Might be best to cut the copper pipe, to remove the flexi tails. Perhaps the copper pipe is pushed into push fit fittings beneath the floor, that would enable the pipe to rotate. It is best to replace old flexi pipes though, as they have been known to split.
I'm trying to fit a tap with 3/4 flexi hose; previous tap used 1/2 hose. How wd u attach 3/4 (euro) tap flexihose to a isolating valve that is threaded on top to fit a 1/2 flexi? I bought 15mm Compression by 3/8" BSP Male Iron Thread European Flexible Tap Adapters (Pair) and flexi hose screws nicely to the top of this but how do I connect to isoloating valves as both ends threaded?
Thanks for the video, when connecting the flexi tail adapter to the isolation valve what type of nut is needed and is an olive used in this connection or does it just need a nut?
Flat faced isolation valves are preferred - fave.co/3Q4Vbn3 That fits onto the pipe using an olive and compression nut (supplied with the valve) The flexi tail has a nut on one side, with a sealing washer, which connects to the flush face of the isolation valve 👍
Is it possible to replace a rubber seal on flexibile hose from the begining of the video, or maybe add one more if the connection is leaking due to old rubber seal? THX
With some you can, as the washer is separate. But if the rubber is connected to the flexi, it is best to replace the whole flexi (also the other flexi too), as it could mean that they have reached their end of life and are breaking down. A mate of mine had his house flooded when a flexi upstairs burst!
Hi. Quick question. I have bought a new kitchen faucet and wanted to know if I could apply a push fit flexi tail to a Tap tail adapter, as I need to extend the new flexi tail which are a bit short on my new faucet Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me.
No, I don't think so. The best option would probably be to get longer flexi tails. The brass part of the tap tail adaptor, which normally goes into the compression fitting, is not quite long enough to work on push fit fittings (I did try it once and it would not work).
No 😂 Plumbing is really complicated, years ago everything in the UK was Imperial, then someone changed everyone over to the metric system (I prefer metric). Now tap tails come with a 3/8 BSP or a ½ BSP to connect to the pipe side, yet at the tap side they can be 10mm or 12mm. I don’t know why things have to be so complicated 😂
Iv got 3/4 flexi pipes but my new taps are a bigger thread..about an inch. Whats the best way to go about it?..Can i get an adaptor or do i have to change the flexi pipes for ones with a bigger nut?....cheers
Not sure, I have never seen taps that are larger then 3/4". It might be best to go to a plumbers merchants to ensure you get the correct fitting. Thanks for the comment 👍
Another great video full of useful tips, I’m in the process of fitting two bathrooms and will definitely be using those tail adaptors you demonstrated, top guy, top tips 👍👍👍
Can those flexi tap tail adapters also be used on gas fittings? I mean when connecting a flexible gas pipe to a 15mm gas isolation valve (with olive compression) one end and to the 1/2inch BSP male the other end for the female flexible gas pipe.
You can also buy a brass adapter: like i did....with my new kitchen sink tap, with flexi tail ends. On the adapter: one end being the male; and the other end....having a push fit; as opposed to a compression fitting. You don’t get any leaks on push fittings. With a compression fitting: there is a knack to it; when tightening. Otherwise it will leak. Chrome isolation valves, or the cheap versions...i tend to avoid. It’s much better to buy a John guest push fit isolation valve; or one of those full bore valves with a handle on it. i guess you pay for what you buy. Monday am at 07:09H. 15th March 2021. U.K. 🇬🇧 Southampton.
I also have to admit - I've never paid attention to the chamfer on the ends of threaded fittings that connect to a flexi-tail. But, what I always do prior to connecting, is to wet the rubber gasket (if my water source isn't on or available, I just spit on it). That allows the threaded fitting to slide on the gasket and not pucker it up while tightening.
Resurrecting this and hoping for help. My bath filler tap has 3/4” connectors on the flexis. I have 15mm pex running to the tap with full bore iso valves. I can’t seem to find any of these adapters for 15mm x 3/4”. Any ideas if they are manufactured anywhere?
I think they are only available in 1/2" and 3/8" Perhaps you could just swap the isolation valve for a washing machine tap, as they have a 3/4" flat face - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144222661980?hash=item2194572d5c:g:Z1MAAOSwRpthUv0o
Hi this video is really helpful as it’s exactly what I’m looking for to help me with my plumbing of new sink ! I’ve been stuck on this for weeks , so thanks for your demonstration! 👍🏾
Ultimate Handyman hi may I ask you a question in relation to this please how do you get the nuts off the end of the flexi pipes ? As that’s what I’m joining together with the islolation valve . Thanks 😊
Ultimate Handyman oh lol 😂 you can tell I’m learning on the job ! It’s my first time at attempting any type plumbing work!! I’m a woman I live with my daughter & I’ve redecorated our whole kitchen during lockdown tiling the lot etc ! The hot pipe doesn’t have the correct fittings on it so I’ve learned that I could by pass it by connecting the two flexi pipes together the old & new with an islolation valve . As I have removed a sink with pillar taps & replaced with mono block tap & one & half bowel sink ! Just doing plumbing now then traps ! So your advice was much needed! 👍🏾 Thanks
My moen faucet steel braided water hose is leaking at the fitting. I have a new hose but the end doesn’t fit. Do they sell adapters? Can you tell me how I can fix this. I’m lost.
I don’t think they sell adaptors, but there are a few different sizes of hole at the tap end. Perhaps remove one of the flexi tails and take it to your local plumbers’ merchants. They have a large selection of them at most plumbers’ merchants 👍
Hi, thanks for video. Now I have that flat faced isolation valve installed, how to connect 10mm flexi tile to it? As the valve is 15mm , is there any reducer available. Have Ideal Standard tap with Flexi tails pre- attached, can't see the way to replace them with 15mm nut tail.
Are you sure the Flexi is 10mm? Normally the threaded part is BSP (so it will normally be imperial) I'm sure you can get 15mm compression flat faced isolation valve with a 3/8 BSP fitting on the end. If not you can definitely get tap tail adapters to go to 3/8 BSP- www.screwfix.com/p/tesla-brass-compression-adapting-flexible-tap-connectors-15mm-x-3-8-2-pack/6089r
I recently changed my kitchen taps and the new flexi pipes wouldn't reach the copper pipes as the older ones were longer and I couldn't reuse them as they were pretty beaten up and twisted, so I bought a length of copper pipe and extended the existing pipes using brass compression fittings. I've since heard that they may not be suitable for drinking water as they may contain lead. Is this true and if so what should I use?
Copper pipe and brass fittings are fine for potable water (drinking water), I have never heard of them containing lead before. There are hundreds of properties near me that still have a lead supply pipe going to their property. I'm afraid there is always something that's bad for you, people often comment on my videos saying that plastic pipes contain chemicals that are harmful to health etc. I'm sure what you have used will be perfectly fine ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman it was just the brass fittings I was concerned about because I heard that brass is made up of different metals including lead. I know that the copper pipes are fine. Thanks for that👍
Hello - If I wanted to connect to a copper pipe without using an isolation valve (there is already one installed so I don’t need another) do I attach the flat faced tail adaptor to the pipe using a standard compression fitting and then screw the flexi tail on? Hope that makes sense
No, we used to do that years ago, but the end of the compression fitting is not flat and so over time, it can damage the seal and leak. We now either use a flat faced compression fitting, or an adaptor like this- fave.co/3wrHLs3
Great video. Would you have any recommendation to stop any small leak from the 15 mm olive? I installed mine as per your video but I am getting a tiny leak. Thanks
Does it make a difference if you connect these to a hot or cold supply? My Flexi hoses are colour coded, one red and one non red but apart from that they look to made identically
The ones that I have used have always been universal (you can use them on hot or cold), but perhaps the colour coded ones use different materials for increased durability - or perhaps they are colour coded so that people don't get mixed up when connecting them.
I've just bought a freestanding mixer tap that comes with 2 flexi-tails that although 1/2" BSP have a 1" nut and I want to connect that onto 15mm speedfit. Unbelievably, this item doesn't seem to exist!? I've fitted numerous basin tap flexi-tails to 15mm speedfit pipe with the speedfit Brass push fit adapter but they have a smaller nut on the tail. With such a common connection it stuns me that a 1" nut to 15mm speedfit part doesn't seem to exist.
You need to know what the size of the thread is with the 25mm nut. It could be 1/2 BSP or 3/4 BSP You should then be able to get the correct adaptor, example here- www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x/5970f
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks, spoke to speedfit directly and they sorted me out. You need 2 parts to make this connection, a 1" / 28mm male brass coupler and a 28mm to 15mm push-fit reducer
I had a leaking tail to the isolation valve. I was so closed to change the flexi tail but after watching your video I realised its the washer that got cut into. Bought the adapters and washers from Toolstation and changed both connections in less than 10mins. Problem solved and less than 6 quid spent. Thanks for such great video.
I'm glad the video helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Thanks Kelvin's that useful too mate.
Another intriguing video :) dad is exactly the same with his tools, he's a maintenance electrician at Cardiff Uni Hospital and every day comes home with something new. "It was going to waste" or "I might need this" Mum is so used to it now. His shed is absolutely ram packed with everything and anything. Was going to buy a flexi and the uproar was insane. "I've got 20 odd flexis in the shed! Never buy something, check with me first" lol
I have stuff stored that I've had for 20 years and never used, but it will come in useful one day 😂
Thanks for the comment 👍
Maybe not so much detail about where your father borrows/steals his bits from . He could get in trouble 😊
I found this upload almost by accident but the information given here and the suggestion to fit an isolation valve MEANT I WAS ABLE TO CONNECT A GROHE TAP TO EXISTING HOT AND COLD SUPPLY WHEN I HAD NO IDEA HOW I WAS GOING TO GET THE FLEXI-TAIL TO FIT. I was unable to get a flat isolation valve locally so had to use the standard isolation valves. Thanks for posting, you saved my installation and I have now got the tap on securely.
👍
After a complete botch job from a “Handy Man” and simply investigating his errors, this video put me in the right direction, ordered the bits, took me about 45 mins to remove his botch job and fit new flexi tails and flat faced isolators.. top job… great vid… no more leaks.
I'd just like to say thankyou so much for this clear video, I bought a tap off amazon with no adapters and didn't know how to connect properly to pipes ( I had a female end on flexible pipe) and I wasn't overly sure how to proceed. I did the steps you followed ( bought adapters from Tool station, I used some ptsfe tape too), all connected and working plus no leaks and more importantly no expensive plumber costs.
I went into buildbase in Lincoln and asked for fittings to go onto female tails. The guy there said he had never seen anything like that. All plumbers just go straight onto iso valves. I said the ends are not designed for that. He looked confused. So went to tool station and found the male tail adaptors in your video and did a proper job. Shows most trades men don't even do it right.
I'm not sure how long the flat-faced valves have been around for, I think the tap tail adaptors have only been out a couple of years.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great video. As a DIYer doing my bathroom and toilet I only recently discovered flat faced isolation valves to connect up to the tap flexi hoses. Interesting I couldn't source from B&Q or Wickes but Tool Station were able to assist and the tap instructions never mentioned them! A compression isolation valve will fit but won't be as reliable and could destroy the rubber washer. A recent leaking washing machine at my mothers turned out to be a saddle tap the builder had fitted which failed. Had to cut the pipe and fit an in line tap. You live and learn.
Flat faced isolation value, is what I was looking for.
I've had leaks using the normal isolation value, in the past.
Many thanks.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you for the awesome information you provide! Gettin ready to do my kitchen tap that leaks slightly from the tap. Crawled under after coming home excited to finally fix it with the new one to discover the hose fittings are different on the copper plumbing and wont fit the ones on the tap! Well now I couldnt do that today because I do not have the proper parts and glad I watched your video so I better understand what I need to get for adapters! Frustrating to think I was going to slap it in and have to wait now to make another trip for the parts. Thank you! The older we get the more we develop patience!! House wad built in 1900 and farmers owned it so lots of rigging and so on as farmers tend to use what they have laying around Lol!!
I used to work on a farm, so I know what it's like 😂
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video as usual, thank you. I've installed a bidet seat over this weekend and found that hand-tightening the flexi tails was inadequate and had to nip-up the tails with a spanner both at the T connector and the flexi pipe female terminations. I also made the mistake of leaving a stubborn olive in situ, hoping that tightening up the compression nut would be OK. BIG mistake, so I've ordered an olive remover. Lessons learned!
Interestingly, I noticed that a male flexi pipe tail connects to the female flexi types and can be joined to make a longer run. I doubt this is good practice, particularly since the male tail does not have flat ends. Needs must in the short term at least...
I’ve filed the ends flat on compression fittings, wasn’t aware you could get flat faced pieces - thanks!
Glad I could help! 👍
This info was exactly what I was looking for as I was concerned about using normal compression fitting to attach a flexible hose. This video shows that I can do this but that there is a better way, which I will use if I can find the fittings
Thanks for the comments 👍
Thanks - but what I was hoping you'd show is how to unscrew the M10 end of the tails from a monobloc tap where the plate they screw into is recessed 25mm into the casing of the tap. They were screwed in just by turning the hose, hand tight obviously, and never leaked, but trying to remove them the threads have stuck and the hose just spins on the end fitting. I need something like a narrow M10 basin wrench. I see box spanners sold for monobloc taps, but they won't fit over the 1/2" BSP female on the other end.
You can file the face of the iso down so it becomes flat, cheaper and quicker than going to get a flat face iso. Saved me a few times that trick!
👍
Thanks Chez for the video. And Alan and yourself for pointing out that these fittings existed. I never knew. We live and learn.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for this presentation. Good to find someone who knows what they're talking about . There are a lot of merchants wouldn't know their BSP from their elbow - seriously. My background is carpentry, but I actually enjoy the occasional spot of plumbing.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
I had no idea these fittings existed. Thanks to yourself and Alan for a very informative video.
Best wishes
Pete.
You are welcome Pete,
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks so much for this. I was trying to figure out how to best fit flexi hose to isolating valve and this video was exactly what i was trying to imagine.
Glad it helped 👍
Great video thank you for the simple explanation and demo, I have bought a couple of the flat facing isolating valves because of this, I would never have known the potential problem with the older style!
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Just wanted to thank you for your excellent video all about flexi tails and how to use/connect them…properly!! I’m a keen DIYer with basic plumbing knowledge, just fitting a new shower and needed to use flexi hoses - your video has helped me out no end. You Sir, are a legend and have helped me out no end 🙏 you even name-checked the viewer who recommended the flat-faced isolation values…and even a short “on-the-job” video of using the adapters!!! Keep up the great work, I will definitely be following you and sharing links to your videos/channel - thank you again 👍😉
I’m glad that the videos help 👍
Thanks for the comment and happy new year 👍
Just looking at a flexi tail tap I'm about to fit. I have the isolation valves for use with olives and looking at the end was thinking the same thing re not flat so I thought I'd have a look on youtube to see if there were particular fittings for this type of connection. Thank you for answering my question. Good video.
Thanks for the comment 👍
My mixer tap came with short copper tails, so I used flexihose with compression ends to connect it to copper pipes top and bottom under the sink, I opened up the isolation valve and after about 30seconds, the flexihose compression end on the tap tails blew off! the missus said I should've had the taps open when opening the isolation valve, to let the air in the pipes out, I reconnected the flexi pipe and left the tap on this time, and all seems ok at the moment.
When my missus tells me how to do something, I normally pass the job onto her 😉
Seriously though, I'm sure it will be fine
Thanks for the comment 👍
Bullshits. I am a professional plumber. It doesn't matter if the taps are open or not. If it blew off the olive wasn't good, was missing or you just didn't tighten enough the compression fitting.
Lubing the rubber seal in the braid helps to prevent twisting the braid when tightening up. Found that out the hard way!
Years later and still super helpful! Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Thanks for the comment
I've lost count of the amount of money you have saved me matey. Lots of jobs I've done myself and saved getting out a tradesman. Thank you sir!!!
I'm glad the videos help, thank you for watching them 😉
Thanks for the comment 👍
Ditto
Can you connect the other end to a pvc pipe?
@@ultimatehandymanThanks mate, I have this exact job to do this weekend, and I was concerned about putting the ends in the taps without tightening them with a tool.Thanks for the video. 👍👍👍
I had some leftover tail pieces from some thermostatic radiator valves I fitted as the tail piece was the same as the old valve. I found these tail pieces were ideal for use in fitting a new pair of taps. I was able to put one end into the isolation valve whilst leaving a flat edge for the tap tail to thread into.
Thanks for the comment 👍
It’s a bit wet and windy here today, I hope nobody is working outside!
I hope everyone has a great Sunday 😉
Good video those adapters that fit into the isolation valve do they need an olive on the smooth end that goes into the isolation thanks again
Yes, the olive should be supplied with the isolation valve. I prefer copper olives, so I normally buy 20 or so from the local plumbers' merchants in Blackburn, then throw the brass olives in the scrap 😉
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Good video, thanks. Why do you prefer copper olives? Is it because they're a bit softer than brass and more likely to give a good seal?
Yes, the copper olives are more ductile and compress much easier. I only ever use brass olives if I have run out of copper ones!
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman thanks bud
I didn't know you could get flatfaced fittings now. Thanks!
I have not know about them for long myself ;-)
Flexes legionella risk,you got advice from British gas plumber that's risky
Great video - thanks! I used to just attach flexi tails direct to isolation valve/equal tee etc but this definitely seems more robust. For info I checked a few had fitted over the years and none are leaking that were fitted directly.
👍
Those tap tail adapters solved my problem I didn’t know that they existed 😂
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great vid ...my isolation valve doesn't have a threaded end to connect to ?
Huge help. Thank you very much. Got my tap and new tools and adapters coming from Screwfix later this week.
Great to hear!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Super useful, exactly what I was looking for! Knew it was best to have a flat mating face but couldn't remember the options. 👍
Also, didn't know about the handy tightening of the hose tails! 🤟
You sir are a life saver, so thoroughly explained. Great ideas that have allowed me to understand how to fix my basin taps. Thank you so much
Making it easier for us amateur diyers by producing easier fittings. Thanks for video a bit of new knowledge is a good thing👍👍👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Just discovered the smallest drip from the connector on my flexitail under my kitchen sink and considered doing an emergency callout but after watching this video, I might as well just nip over to B&Q and learn how to do it myself
Best of luck with it ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Very helpful video thank you. Have you seen female tail ends with an O ring as well as a washer? When I disconnected the tail under a basin tap - that had been in situ for ~18 years - it looked as if there was a black ring (looked like an O ring) around the outside of the bore and then possibly a washer behind that. Or is it just a rubber washer that's been squashed by being attached to a tap for 18 years?! Thanks.
Thanks. Helpful video. At 5:20 you quite rightly recommend RTFI with regard to being told to connect up the part being shown, finger tight. However when I tightened the joint that the instructions recommended finger tight, it leaked! So I had to nip it carefully with a small spanner anyway. Clearly my finger tight is not as finger tight as the instruction writer.
Some instructions are really unclear. Speedfit makes a flexible tap connector, push-fit on the pipe, and nut on the tap end. The instructions say no tools required 😂
Thanks for the comment
Appreciated this. I had been fitting them the same way thinking there must be a better way of doing it but just couldn't find the right thing in a search. Sometime you just need to know what something is called. Ta
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
First time doing a bit of plumbing and the video was super helpful to change our basin tap. One flexi tap connector on using an isolation valve and tap tail adaptor will little issue. But the second flexi tap is about an inch too short (the old flexi tap connectors were fine length wise), what is the best way to extend the copper pipe without soldering.
The easiest way is to cut the pipe and insert a push-fit fitting- ua-cam.com/video/Z83vlwUyZIw/v-deo.html&t 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Nice! Thanks for this. I was thinking (after researching) cutting the copper pipe a bit further down and inserting a compression coupler. Would this still work (the top of the pipe has an isolating valve with tail tap adaptor like this video, works a treat on the other pipe which was a bit longer)?
Sure 👍
It's an interesting question as to the life-span of flexible tap tails. Our house was restored between 1998 and 2000 and was fitted with flexible tails in at least 8 places and have not been replaced since. I wonder if the fact that we have a pressure reducer set to 2 Bar immediately after the stop tap and thus limiting the pressure on all the plumbing is significant. I'm planning a "dilapidation" scheme to replace them (though some are going to be "fun" to get to). I'm about to replace some basin taps soon so may well do a pressure test on the tails I'll remove at that time to see how degraded they have become.
That’s a great question. We have 8 Bar pressure here and fitting a pressure reducing valve is a job on my list (but it involves breaking away a load of tiles to gain access to the incoming mains). A friend of mine had a burst flexi and it made a right mess of his house, it brought down ceilings and ruined kitchen units etc.
@@ultimatehandyman Many thanks for the reply. 8 bar sounds pretty high. I think the flexis are good for 16 bar cold and 10 bar hot though I don't know how much higher than that the ultimate is. While I'm doing pressure tests it would be interesting to take a new hose and find out what they can take.
We had a flood on Christmas eve morning. A rat had chewed through the washing machine hose. Thankfully it's an old farm house with a stone floor so it was nothing more than an early spring-cleaning job!
The only other flood we had was at the en-suit mixer tap. It had been plumbed in small bore copper right to the tap which you would have thought was bullet-proof but it fractured right where the pipe exited the tap fitting. Luckily we were in and it didn't have time to take the ceiling down. We now shut the water off if we are going out for more than a few hours.
BTW - I had to replace the pressure reducer after a few years. The plumber who fitted it put the strainer on the output side of the valve which made sure the silt accumulated in the valve. (he also used a non-pressurised cylinder on the pressurised hot water system but that's another story!)
edit: Thinking about your pressure reducer installation, would it be easier to use more than one and fit them where it's easier to get to even if each one only covers part of the system.. We have the luck that there is a stop tap under the sink where the water supply comes in so it is easy to put the reducer immediately after that stop tap.
I did pressure test a flexi in this video a few years back, it held up well- ua-cam.com/video/IOTD6QZRWqw/v-deo.html
There always seems to be a weak point in a plumbing system, a few years back I had a fibre washer split on the bath tap, which resulted in a badly damaged ceiling. I replaced that with a push fit tap connector, as it was the only thing I could use- ua-cam.com/video/eqECFK42PKQ/v-deo.html&t
I was intending on just installing the one pressure reducing valve of the whole house, as close as possible to the incoming stop tap, but I don’t know what the set up will be like, as its behind a tiled wall at the moment.
@@ultimatehandyman Many thanks for the heads-up to the pressure test video. 50 Bar+ isn't too shabby for something rated at 16 bar!
I must confess to disliking fibre washers. I had one fail on the bleed point on a car radiator (luckily no damage to the engine) so I searched around and found a Dowty seal that fitted in its place. I subsequently replaced the fibre washers on the bleed points in the loft associated with the hot water cylinder with this type of seal.
Not looking forward to having to do anything to our bath taps - zero access without moving the bath which will involve taking units out as well.
You are welcome 👍
Fibre washers are not good, especially when they split and leak all over the place.
Baths are a major problem when you need to replace the fibre washers or the tap itself, often because they are butted against a wall with hardly any access. I’m sure that they could come up with a better way, if they put some thought into it!
I really struggled with the one that split here- thanks god for push fit tap connectors!
Best of luck with yours 👍
Brilliant as always, thank you. Can I check please - is there no need for ptfe tape on these joins?
No, you don’t need PTFE 👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
Can you please show a compression fitting done to a plastic pipe ( qual pipe). Thanks very much, love from Ireland
I'll try to cover that in future
Thanks for the comment 👍
Many thanks for the explanation. I need to multiply a cold water supply for a standard dishwasher hose and for a mixer tap's flexible connector pipes, 450 mm long and 3/8''. Can you please tell me what kind/size of connector and adapter should I use?
I would not start to join flexi pipes together, it is better to extend the pipes, then use the correct length flexi.
The easiest way is to use plastic pipe and push fit fittings- ua-cam.com/video/Z83vlwUyZIw/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
Very good guide and information about to this tap fitting help me more in details in my study thank you sir
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
Cheers I’m going from what looks like plastic pipes with metal inside to flexi so I’ll be getting two of these valves
👍
Great video. On the connection of tails to tap however, my taps mixer leaked from the first fitting. The advice was to hand tighten only, but after several attempts I decided to use tape, and then finally grip and tape. The leak is still there and I wonder if these fittings aren't just inherently problematic?
I've never had one leak like that before.
Are the O rings in good condition?
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks for your reply. The rings are intact and undamaged. The leak is certainly from the connection and not due to fraying. Shall try another unit altogether.
All the best.
Great video, you can also now get these in push fit flavour.
👍
Interesting video! Thanks for keeping us updated of the exciting evolutions in the plumbing world :)
Seriously, where else would a DIY'er get this kind of info. In the stores they'll tell you anything to get rid of you/make you buy something, or they simply lack the knowledge.
Thanks a lot as always for all the info you put out!
btw, in Belgium it's sunny and warm, although quite windy as well. Excellent sailing weather!
I wish it was sunny here 😉
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi - Screwfix and Toolstation supply both the 1/2" & 3/8" BSP sizes
Thanks Colin ;-)
Thanks! I was just wondering what is the best way to connect these. Great explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Brilliant advice. Exactly what I needed.
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
So isolation-valves? Should they be put on every appliance requiring water? Dishwasher, outside tap, sink etc.?
Yes, they should be in the pipework on every water outlet, but to be honest, sometimes they can cause more problems, especially if they start to leak.
Thanks for the comment 👍
This video is an absolute god send. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi , video was very informative, but how do I connect a pvc water pipe with a k1 crimp fitting attached to an isolation valve and flexi tail ??
No idea, sorry.
Thanks! I’m going to be changing my first tap in the next week or so and wasn’t sure what to do with the current copper pipe fittings. This has helped a lot! Thanks
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
If the insulation valve has a tapered ending you could probably just file and sant it a little to dull it down and prevent it from cutting into the rubber washer, I suppose. Those connections don't seem to need to be tightened with a lot of torque anyway.
Hi mate Do you still need to use the white tape on threads for sealing. im just DIY my kitchen tap not a Plummer thanks.
This should help- ua-cam.com/video/6PR0zTU_v30/v-deo.html&t
👍
Great video - thanks! I usually do these things by logic/ what I dismantle but those couple of lessons are really useful for a basin replacement I am doing.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Excellent tutorial. I have a question, perhaps you know an answer - I have connected flexi pipe male side to female side of an elbow connector. But it's leaking from the joint. I have put a fibre waaher between flexi-male and elbow-female. Used ptfe, no luck. Any suggestion?
Does the elbow connector have a flush face?
Normally a rubber type seal is used to get a good seal between the flexi and the connector.
Hi, Looking at the isolation connector it looks to me as if they have just put the end onto a grinder and removed some of the thread?. I had not seen these but from now on I will be getting the new ones as I always use an isolation valve because you never know when you are going to have to isolate that tap, and they are so cheap that it is worth every penny. I have seen flexible pipes with the isolation valve as part of the pipe.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice vid... if you can't get your hands on. purpose made fittings just adapt a ballofix or straight compression coupling by running it over a sharpening stone to give a flat edge.. may save you a tripvto the shop :)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Been through loads of videos looking for tips,yours was by far the best.thanks alot.
Glad it helped
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Hi nice vid
I was taught metal to metal always requires
Ptfe or it’s equivalent?
Not at all, you only need PTFE on tapered threads.
ua-cam.com/video/6PR0zTU_v30/v-deo.html&t
👍
I use a diamond sharpening plate to ease the edge of the isolators before attaching tails, it takes about 30 seconds to put a 1mm face on them.
👍
Excellent tutorial. Thanks.
My kitchen tap blew the swivel arm out last night so that's going in the bin!
I'm fitting a new tap this weekend.
Do I need to use olives with the isolator adapters?
Yes, if you are using the adaptors you need olives in the isolation valves to grip them.
Thanks for the comment
Thanks, this bailed me out in a moment of complete brain fade. These days (2022) the 15mm-1/2 BSP adaptors are available from Screwfix and Toolstation too.
👍
Good to know about the flat end service value
Yes, they are great!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Beginner question:
I'm going to fit a flexi hose to my bath taps....
When I purchase the flexi hose, does it come with everything you need? Or do I need to buy a separate compression nut which goes on the copper pipe?
Thanks.
It depends which flexi tails you are using.
Some have a compression fitting at one end, but others need to connect to a flat faced isolation valve, examples here- fave.co/2PlcA0E
That’s a smashing accent you’ve got there. Any advice for removing some old tails that are attached to some fragile seeming copper pipe work? I wanted to replace when I did the taps but ended up leaving the old tails in place because when I gave it some welly the pipe work was turning and I was worried about damaging it under the bathroom floor. I suspect it just needs replacing..
Might be best to cut the copper pipe, to remove the flexi tails. Perhaps the copper pipe is pushed into push fit fittings beneath the floor, that would enable the pipe to rotate.
It is best to replace old flexi pipes though, as they have been known to split.
I'm trying to fit a tap with 3/4 flexi hose; previous tap used 1/2 hose. How wd u attach 3/4 (euro) tap flexihose to a isolating valve that is threaded on top to fit a 1/2 flexi? I bought 15mm Compression by 3/8" BSP Male Iron Thread European Flexible Tap Adapters (Pair) and flexi hose screws nicely to the top of this but how do I connect to isoloating valves as both ends threaded?
Excellent video! Very clear & well rounded with answers to a number of questions on flexi tap connector world. Thanks for the help 😊 👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video, when connecting the flexi tail adapter to the isolation valve what type of nut is needed and is an olive used in this connection or does it just need a nut?
Flat faced isolation valves are preferred - fave.co/3Q4Vbn3
That fits onto the pipe using an olive and compression nut (supplied with the valve)
The flexi tail has a nut on one side, with a sealing washer, which connects to the flush face of the isolation valve 👍
@@ultimatehandyman thanks for the reply
Is it possible to replace a rubber seal on flexibile hose from the begining of the video, or maybe add one more if the connection is leaking due to old rubber seal? THX
With some you can, as the washer is separate. But if the rubber is connected to the flexi, it is best to replace the whole flexi (also the other flexi too), as it could mean that they have reached their end of life and are breaking down. A mate of mine had his house flooded when a flexi upstairs burst!
Hi. Quick question. I have bought a new kitchen faucet and wanted to know if I could apply a push fit flexi tail to a Tap tail adapter, as I need to extend the new flexi tail which are a bit short on my new faucet
Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me.
No, I don't think so.
The best option would probably be to get longer flexi tails.
The brass part of the tap tail adaptor, which normally goes into the compression fitting, is not quite long enough to work on push fit fittings (I did try it once and it would not work).
@@ultimatehandyman
Many thanks Handyman. I will go to the store and see what I can find
Thanks for your help. It’s much appreciated
great video. how about conecting to speed fitt ?
You can get special push fit adaptors- fave.co/3IGVjGd 👍
Is a male BSP to 15mm compression fitting going to also be the right thing for the job?
Yes, as long as the BSP part is flat faced 👍
when you say the flexi tap tail connectors being available in 3/8's , is that the equivalent of a 10mm female flexi hose being able to fit to that?
No 😂
Plumbing is really complicated, years ago everything in the UK was Imperial, then someone changed everyone over to the metric system (I prefer metric). Now tap tails come with a 3/8 BSP or a ½ BSP to connect to the pipe side, yet at the tap side they can be 10mm or 12mm. I don’t know why things have to be so complicated 😂
Can you use these for radiators for a home
Really great video
Simple and informative
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
Iv got 3/4 flexi pipes but my new taps are a bigger thread..about an inch. Whats the best way to go about it?..Can i get an adaptor or do i have to change the flexi pipes for ones with a bigger nut?....cheers
Not sure, I have never seen taps that are larger then 3/4". It might be best to go to a plumbers merchants to ensure you get the correct fitting.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Another great video full of useful tips, I’m in the process of fitting two bathrooms and will definitely be using those tail adaptors you demonstrated, top guy, top tips 👍👍👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
Can those flexi tap tail adapters also be used on gas fittings? I mean when connecting a flexible gas pipe to a 15mm gas isolation valve (with olive compression) one end and to the 1/2inch BSP male the other end for the female flexible gas pipe.
I’m not sure to be honest, as I don’t work on gas 🤔
You can also buy a brass adapter: like i did....with my new kitchen sink tap, with flexi tail ends. On the adapter: one end being the male; and the other end....having a push fit; as opposed to a compression fitting. You don’t get any leaks on push fittings.
With a compression fitting: there is a knack to it; when tightening. Otherwise it will leak.
Chrome isolation valves, or the cheap versions...i tend to avoid. It’s much better to buy a John guest push fit isolation valve; or one of those full bore valves with a handle on it. i guess you pay for what you buy.
Monday am at 07:09H. 15th March 2021. U.K. 🇬🇧 Southampton.
Excellent tutorial thanks 🙏
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
I also have to admit - I've never paid attention to the chamfer on the ends of threaded fittings that connect to a flexi-tail. But, what I always do prior to connecting, is to wet the rubber gasket (if my water source isn't on or available, I just spit on it). That allows the threaded fitting to slide on the gasket and not pucker it up while tightening.
Thanks for the comment, Jo 👍
Or even better some liquid ptfe
Resurrecting this and hoping for help. My bath filler tap has 3/4” connectors on the flexis. I have 15mm pex running to the tap with full bore iso valves. I can’t seem to find any of these adapters for 15mm x 3/4”. Any ideas if they are manufactured anywhere?
I think they are only available in 1/2" and 3/8"
Perhaps you could just swap the isolation valve for a washing machine tap, as they have a 3/4" flat face - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144222661980?hash=item2194572d5c:g:Z1MAAOSwRpthUv0o
Hi this video is really helpful as it’s exactly what I’m looking for to help me with my plumbing of new sink ! I’ve been stuck on this for weeks , so thanks for your demonstration! 👍🏾
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Ultimate Handyman hi may I ask you a question in relation to this please how do you get the nuts off the end of the flexi pipes ? As that’s what I’m joining together with the islolation valve . Thanks 😊
@@learicketts2489 You don't remove the nuts from the flexi pipes, they are not designed to be removed from the flexi's
Ultimate Handyman oh lol 😂 you can tell I’m learning on the job ! It’s my first time at attempting any type plumbing work!! I’m a woman I live with my daughter & I’ve redecorated our whole kitchen during lockdown tiling the lot etc ! The hot pipe doesn’t have the correct fittings on it so I’ve learned that I could by pass it by connecting the two flexi pipes together the old & new with an islolation valve . As I have removed a sink with pillar taps & replaced with mono block tap & one & half bowel sink ! Just doing plumbing now then traps ! So your advice was much needed! 👍🏾 Thanks
@@learicketts2489 Glad you got there in the end ;-)
Thanks for the update
thanks for your useful tips,well appreciated
I'm glad the tips help 👍
My moen faucet steel braided water hose is leaking at the fitting. I have a new hose but the end doesn’t fit. Do they sell adapters? Can you tell me how I can fix this. I’m lost.
I don’t think they sell adaptors, but there are a few different sizes of hole at the tap end. Perhaps remove one of the flexi tails and take it to your local plumbers’ merchants. They have a large selection of them at most plumbers’ merchants 👍
Hi, thanks for video. Now I have that flat faced isolation valve installed, how to connect 10mm flexi tile to it? As the valve is 15mm , is there any reducer available. Have Ideal Standard tap with Flexi tails pre- attached, can't see the way to replace them with 15mm nut tail.
Are you sure the Flexi is 10mm?
Normally the threaded part is BSP (so it will normally be imperial)
I'm sure you can get 15mm compression flat faced isolation valve with a 3/8 BSP fitting on the end. If not you can definitely get tap tail adapters to go to 3/8 BSP-
www.screwfix.com/p/tesla-brass-compression-adapting-flexible-tap-connectors-15mm-x-3-8-2-pack/6089r
Thanks, you have been absolutely right. Job done ✅
Hi. Do u have a video on fitting a shower plate. The one that Marlow do?
No, sorry- I have not installed one of those yet.
@@ultimatehandyman ok. Thanks
Thanks very useful. I've been fitting flexis straight to normal isolation values for years. No leaks yet touch wood
Me too, but the flat face isolators and tap tail adaptors are much better.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Ultimate Handyman mine started leaking now? So whats the solution without changing isolation valve??
I recently changed my kitchen taps and the new flexi pipes wouldn't reach the copper pipes as the older ones were longer and I couldn't reuse them as they were pretty beaten up and twisted, so I bought a length of copper pipe and extended the existing pipes using brass compression fittings. I've since heard that they may not be suitable for drinking water as they may contain lead. Is this true and if so what should I use?
Copper pipe and brass fittings are fine for potable water (drinking water), I have never heard of them containing lead before.
There are hundreds of properties near me that still have a lead supply pipe going to their property.
I'm afraid there is always something that's bad for you, people often comment on my videos saying that plastic pipes contain chemicals that are harmful to health etc.
I'm sure what you have used will be perfectly fine ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman it was just the brass fittings I was concerned about because I heard that brass is made up of different metals including lead. I know that the copper pipes are fine. Thanks for that👍
@@AA-yg5jm Somebody has probably got mixed up with zinc, as brass is an alloy of copper and zinc 👍
@@ultimatehandyman ok, thanks.
Hello - If I wanted to connect to a copper pipe without using an isolation valve (there is already one installed so I don’t need another) do I attach the flat faced tail adaptor to the pipe using a standard compression fitting and then screw the flexi tail on? Hope that makes sense
No, we used to do that years ago, but the end of the compression fitting is not flat and so over time, it can damage the seal and leak.
We now either use a flat faced compression fitting, or an adaptor like this- fave.co/3wrHLs3
Great video. Would you have any recommendation to stop any small leak from the 15 mm olive? I installed mine as per your video but I am getting a tiny leak. Thanks
Yes, just wrap some PTFE tape around the olive and then retighten.
Obviously you need to isolate the water first and back off the compression nut 👍
Does it make a difference if you connect these to a hot or cold supply? My Flexi hoses are colour coded, one red and one non red but apart from that they look to made identically
The ones that I have used have always been universal (you can use them on hot or cold), but perhaps the colour coded ones use different materials for increased durability - or perhaps they are colour coded so that people don't get mixed up when connecting them.
very professional, opinion from a China manufacturer of flexible hose
Thanks for the comment 👍
I've just bought a freestanding mixer tap that comes with 2 flexi-tails that although 1/2" BSP have a 1" nut and I want to connect that onto 15mm speedfit. Unbelievably, this item doesn't seem to exist!? I've fitted numerous basin tap flexi-tails to 15mm speedfit pipe with the speedfit Brass push fit adapter but they have a smaller nut on the tail. With such a common connection it stuns me that a 1" nut to 15mm speedfit part doesn't seem to exist.
You need to know what the size of the thread is with the 25mm nut.
It could be 1/2 BSP or 3/4 BSP
You should then be able to get the correct adaptor, example here-
www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x/5970f
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks, spoke to speedfit directly and they sorted me out. You need 2 parts to make this connection, a 1" / 28mm male brass coupler and a 28mm to 15mm push-fit reducer