I'm willing to bet that first night was the best night's sleep Leo has had in awhile. He and the team have worked so hard, for so long, and now he gets to enjoy being rocked to sleep on her.
For others watching this. Some types of stainless steel work harden almost immediately. The issue with drilling is that the center of the drill does not actually cut. The tip of the drill actually deforms the material outward to the cutting edge. If you speed and feed rates are not correct, the deformation hardens the material. Once hardened, it will break before it deforms, and you end up with little hardened bits of steel in the chip pool that chip the drill causing even more hardening. If you are very lucky, you can baby your way through the hole by clearing the chips constantly. The big issue is that pecking is the easiest way to guarantee work hardening SS. It is really important that you are always cutting when the tool is in contact with the material, when the tool dwells at the beginning and end of the peck, it will work harden. Best thing is to just drill straight through under constant pressure. Just dump luck that slug landed perfectly and fused itself to the material underneath.
Besides cutting continuously, lubrication with a cutting fluid like Anchor Lube or Tap Magic will help with both cooling and keeping the drill bit sharp.
@@peterhobson3262 Plus slow the speed for stainless. 750 rpm is way too fast - as Keith found out. I am sure in hindsight Keith worked all of this out, guided by what Joshua and Peter have indicated.
I'm just a lowly retired engineer with lots of machine shop experience but I would have run the drill slow from the beginning with lots of coolant. Stainless can be a SOB and there is only one capstan with a very expensive looking gypsy. Keith recovered nicely and the job looks great.
For the first hole drilled he didn’t appear to use any lubricant and even sped up the drill until he hit trouble . I have very limited experience of drilling stainless but could anticipate problems arriving.
@hughshepherd6596 I've turned plenty of 316 and 316l on my mini lathe and drilled as well. The basic titanium drill bits from auto parts store worked just fine for me, as long as I kept my speeds low and used tap magic fluid, it let's the chips fall away and not get pulled back into the hole. For turning, carbide is a must, and fairly high speeds, I've had decent luck not running any coolant, nothing I turn has to have a perfect surface finish
The most impressive part is how calm you seem to be machining this irreplaceable artifact. I would be a nervous wreck. This has been one of my favorite series of yours yet. Well done!
To be fair, Keith seems out of his comfort zone with this, lots of folk watching him makes it worse. I’d be uncomfortable just battling this quietly on my own. I too hate Stainless, if anything there are worse alloys, nimonics. Ugh!
It's like these rock climbers I see do solo loops of routes if you fall off of will kill you dead. He's confident and experienced and cautiously evaluates the high risk areas. It what makes 'em great. THis is a crux operation for Tally Ho.
@CanizaM, He did not break the capstan head, years of neglect and exposure without maintenance did that, he did everything to not break it, the capstan head was just to far corroded and the part failed, as with everything on Tally Ho decades of neglect have taken it's toll, the part failed and needed to be recast, which it was. Tally Ho truly is a ship of Theseus. Leo has taken her completely apart replaced 99.9% of her and reused what he could, this capstan is no different, repairing and upgrading the existing parts so she can last another 114 years.
I'm really impressed with the engineer that came up with the fix for this project. It's pretty complicated from start to finish. But should last another 100 years without much problems. And the only thing that should be a wear part is the winch motor. Can't wait to see you on the next one.
I used to drill a lot of CRES, Inconel, and titanium in the aerospace industry. It was challenging like that stainless. We had this one assembly for a C5 Air Force transport plane engine pylon that had a month lead time to get a new one if we messed it up. When I asked “what happens if we blow a hole?” I was told “just don’t.” Haha. No pressure. I never oversized a hole in 4 years.
Keith, it's such a joy to see you, again and again, apply your knowledge, experience and creativity in your work. I love seeing your on-the-fly problem solving in action.
Experience is also realizing early that you are about to get into trouble and knowing how to get out of the situation. This is why I watch guys like Keith Rucker and shipwrights.
This is quality work that’s going onto Tally Ho when Leo starts sailing the boat if ever I get to see it I will look at this capstan and think of all the work that’s gone into it that will still be there when I’m long gone .
So much fun to see the process and the surprises and the adjustments-and the knowledgeable comments that so many professionals who watch the channel are providing.
Most interesting process. Never thought I'd be invested in the re-building of a 100+ yr. old capstan. Nicely done and well explained to those of us with a limited knowledge of machining. (Now, to look up work hardening)
So the little slug was holding on the drill and then spinning on the lower part heating it up and hardening the parts. Then you had to fight that. Wow always something to learn.
That slug work hardened just a bit of the surface under it as Keith stopped soon enough. Had to watch an apprenticeship candidate do something similar decades ago, it was hard to watch, you want to jump in and fix it, before the fact since we knew how. Waiting for the dawning realisation in the demeanour of the subject was the rewarding part. He has since completed, past, and mastered many other modes of craftmanship in the industry and retires soon.
First time I have some imput about your work. I millwrighted in the construction industries for 35+ years maybe 10 years in the food processing industry. Drilled maybe tens of thousands of holes thru many many different thicknesses of stainless steel . This is what I " Know " flattened cutting flutes on the drill bits on both cutting axeises, drill pilot holes, slow the driver down very slow, the use more pressure down when drilling !! You think drilling something stainless this thick is tough dry some 10ga sheet metal. Forgive my boldness. God bless you Sir
Thank you Keith for all that you do. You’re the shop teacher I never had. Thanks to you and all the trades who made and make this country great. There is no substitute for experience and a job well done! All the best!
I cringed when I watched you increase rpm. I hate stainless, spent 14 years doing maintenance in a food processing plant. Cobalt drills chip the edges too easy, new TIN drills aren't sharp until reground, good old fashioned black oxided bits are the best in my opinion. Tap magic made a heavy lube that worked well, can't recall exact name, got a bottle but not walking to shop to look. Looks like heavy black oil but it has tap magic in it. Probably can't buy it anymore but it works well. I love my present job in a die shop, after stainless, d1 and a2 are like working with butter. Keep making videos, love the new die mill, could have used it last week, made a fixture for rotab and got it done. Again thanks for videos.
I worked on Budd stainless steel railcars for several years. It's a good thing I quickly figured out how to drill that special stainless alloy. I was able to use just one step drill the whole time.
Ages ago I briefly worked in a production machine shop turning and drilling pipe flanges in stainless and Inconel. If the drill point angle and the feed rate weren't correct that hole would smoke in a hurry. I recall going very slow but the chips tell the story.
Such an interesting series of videos that you've put together Keith. It's very instructive watching you work your way through this project. And what a project! Just getting the capstan apart was an ordeal. Making the pattern was quite the exercise. Casting it was a challenge. Designing, making the gypsy, etc was another exercise. And now you get to put the whole thing together, along with a whole lot of machining. In a way it resonates well with the entire Tally Ho project which has been anything but easy! Thanks for taking the time to do all of these videos for us. It's well appreciated!
Probably been mentioned, but since the hole pattern is not perfectly symmetrical, stamping some corresponding marks into the gypsy parts and winch would save future maintenance people's sanity :)
Know nothing about what you are doing, but always find your projects interesting and your discussion help me understand what and why you are doing something. Plus I like you show “ mistakes “ it makes the project “ real “. Keep up the great work.
What is great about following Keith’s and Leo’s channels is the interplay between precision wood work versus the excellent machining and fitting. Real craftsmen.
SV Tally Ho was launched on April 18th and Leo posted the video of the launch 2 days ago , if you'd like to see a very fine sailing vessel Leo's channel is actually > Sampson Boat Co < I've been watching her get restored for years , an amazing journey !
I’ve only watched a few videos of Tally Ho over the years (they were all very informative videos, just to busy to find the time) and I did watch the launch. Very sentimental for the people involved, understandable, it’s such a fine ship with all the different crafts that were applied by so many craftsman. It seems that the craft is back and they should all be very proud of what they’ve built, Keith included. I’m sure that there was some discussion about the machine work that needed to be done by the engineer that was designing the capstan and Leo and they made another great choice by going with Keith Rucker as the machinist to perform the work, Thanks for sharing Keith, see you on the next one.
Also noticed when tapping Keith just did a continuous cut, didn't back the tap off to break the chip. I was taught to always back off the tap, no matter what material you are tapping. Prevents that pitiful sobbing when a tap binds up and snaps off in a deep or blind hole.
My wife sat down next to me this morning, right as you said, "we're going to have them awful close" at 9:30 and my wife says, "I thought machining was supposed to be precise?" I had to explain to her that there are tolerances built in to the drawings to allow for variance in the dimension of the part on which you're machining, especially when the part was cast that long ago.
Oh, man, I hate when work-hardening happens! Thanks to you and others I at least now know it's a thing. Being self-taught and inexperienced, I just didn't get why drilling sometimes became especially a bear, until spending time watching you teach all of us about working with metal, especially the very basic things that other makers might assume everyone knows. Believe me: we don't! I gotta admit, too, that it makes me feel a little better about my own work to see that this kind of thing can happen to even experienced folks. I know that some others might have left that bit out of their videos. Commenters here explain why it happened in more detail, and that's interesting. But you already showed us yourself here in the video how to get beyond the problem. Thanks, Keith, for showing us the hard bits (ooh, I see what I did there!), too.
I am seriously impressed. Impressed with the engineer/designer who came up with the fix for the old capstan, impressed with the UK machinists , and impressed with your skill and professionalism Keith. Well done! Well done indeed!. I do have a question. Will not these dissimilar metals, cast iron, stainless steel and bronze form some kind of a battery in a salt water environment? Can anything be done to protect against that?
I really enjoy your videos. I stopped in Tifton for lunch yesterday on our way back from Florida. Had you had an address listed, I might had tried a surprise visit
Thanks Keith. I am sure everyone that has ever worked with stainless has had an experiance that will give a fella the worst case of gas on record. When I was working with Inconel we found "Rapid Tap" and regular H/S tooling at reduced speeds worked best. I have been using it for all my drilling, tapping and threading. I see Tally Ho is now in the water. They nailed the weight and ballance perfectly. They still have a long way to sea trials yet. I am sure Leo is eagerly awaiting this piece from you.
I look forward to your videos just as much as I do Leo's -- interesting to an old retired casting engineer who's coordinated machining a lot of castings. Thanks for posting..
Keith, you're a brave man. I've been doing a bunch of stainless work recently, and thinking about the grief that breaking a drill or tap would cause you in that setup, had me so tense I literally sighed with relief when you cut to having all the those bolts in place. Well done sir.
Capstans are vertical shaft smooth drum winches, gypsies are horizontal shaft smooth drum winches, wildcats are what anchor chains wrap around to pull up
Surprised that stainless bolts were not called for.. I have fabricated with non-magnetic stainless steel and found that every drilled hole is a challenge to itself. The tolerance you are able to hold on your jobs is impressive, inspiring even !
Kieth, when you were making the flat surface on your first hole, the bit was wobbling as you put pressure on the bit. Not trying to be critical, and maybe you already know. Thanks for doing videos for us. Is much appreciated.
Hi Kieth, huge amount of work for you refurbing the capstan. Can I suggest when you come to final assembly that use anhydrous lanolin e.g. lanacote on all the bolts and threads. Regular grease absorbs moisture and allows corrosion. I have 30 years experience running an 80 year old wooden boat and have learnt the hard way.
I always struggle with stainless, but I am mostly working with pretty unsophisticated tools. So when Keith started setting up to drill I was surprised- it seemed as though he'd punch through the stainless like it was a piece of mild steel. No so much, I feel for you, Keith! Stainless is hard to work with.
I’ve really been enjoying your work on the Tally Ho capstan. One note (after a career at sea): The American Merchant Seaman’s Manual refers to the part you call the chain gypsy as the wildcat, a sprocketed wheel to haul in or pay out the chain. Cheers!
Try this: Drill at a SLOW RATE and USE WATER INSTEAD OF CUTTING OIL. This will keep the temps low enough to prevent hardening of the stainless which will ruin the bit.
These are such good coding-accompanying videos. Just seems like a very nice chap and seems to have all the same problems I always have doing stuff and talks through it all calmly and sanely. Like a sort of therapy, I guess. Just need to find some more bits of the boat this guy can work on, must be something. New prop maybe?
28:16 ... If i remember I will post this when the brass bolts are made up ... but far as strength of winching in a big sailboat anchor?? The brass bolts are in double shear load, and 6 of them 3/8" Diameter, will provide enough strength, to lift a full 10 tons, before shearing off.
The machined mating surfaces between drum & gypsy are less than ideal, but most of the load should be resisted by friction between their faces, w/ the bolts acting in tension, not shear.
Last time I worked stainless, we had to get carbide drill bits, as the titanium bits would do what yours did, and just melt a work hardened plug. Also the titanium oxide bits are only coated.
Leo is a lucky shipwright that he found you. Hard to find any machine shop that would take on such an involved one-off project. Thank you Keith!
Keith Fenner does maritime stuff particularly this oddball stuff, but Mr. Rucker is perfectly capable. It'll work juuuuust tine.
Tally Ho was amazingly close to her lines when launched. Just a bit bow up waiting for this hunk of iron to bring her down level!
she does sit pretty doesn't she?
Ditto.
I'm willing to bet that first night was the best night's sleep Leo has had in awhile.
He and the team have worked so hard, for so long, and now he gets to enjoy being rocked to sleep on her.
You've got a point there Joe. And They can move the ballast they've already set in there so it will be swwwweeet!!!!
Excellent observation. I'm wondering how much the completed capstan will weigh. I guess we'll find out when it's prepped for shipping to Pt. Townsend.
For others watching this. Some types of stainless steel work harden almost immediately.
The issue with drilling is that the center of the drill does not actually cut. The tip of the drill actually deforms the material outward to the cutting edge. If you speed and feed rates are not correct, the deformation hardens the material. Once hardened, it will break before it deforms, and you end up with little hardened bits of steel in the chip pool that chip the drill causing even more hardening. If you are very lucky, you can baby your way through the hole by clearing the chips constantly.
The big issue is that pecking is the easiest way to guarantee work hardening SS. It is really important that you are always cutting when the tool is in contact with the material, when the tool dwells at the beginning and end of the peck, it will work harden. Best thing is to just drill straight through under constant pressure. Just dump luck that slug landed perfectly and fused itself to the material underneath.
Besides cutting continuously, lubrication with a cutting fluid like Anchor Lube or Tap Magic will help with both cooling and keeping the drill bit sharp.
@@peterhobson3262 Plus slow the speed for stainless. 750 rpm is way too fast - as Keith found out. I am sure in hindsight Keith worked all of this out, guided by what Joshua and Peter have indicated.
I'm just a lowly retired engineer with lots of machine shop experience but I would have run the drill slow from the beginning with lots of coolant. Stainless can be a SOB and there is only one capstan with a very expensive looking gypsy. Keith recovered nicely and the job looks great.
For the first hole drilled he didn’t appear to use any lubricant and even sped up the drill until he hit trouble . I have very limited experience of drilling stainless but could anticipate problems arriving.
@hughshepherd6596 I've turned plenty of 316 and 316l on my mini lathe and drilled as well. The basic titanium drill bits from auto parts store worked just fine for me, as long as I kept my speeds low and used tap magic fluid, it let's the chips fall away and not get pulled back into the hole. For turning, carbide is a must, and fairly high speeds, I've had decent luck not running any coolant, nothing I turn has to have a perfect surface finish
The most impressive part is how calm you seem to be machining this irreplaceable artifact. I would be a nervous wreck.
This has been one of my favorite series of yours yet. Well done!
To be fair, Keith seems out of his comfort zone with this, lots of folk watching him makes it worse. I’d be uncomfortable just battling this quietly on my own. I too hate Stainless, if anything there are worse alloys, nimonics. Ugh!
It's like these rock climbers I see do solo loops of routes if you fall off of will kill you dead. He's confident and experienced and cautiously evaluates the high risk areas. It what makes 'em great. THis is a crux operation for Tally Ho.
He already broke part of it taking it apart and will have to cast a replacement.
@CanizaM, He did not break the capstan head, years of neglect and exposure without maintenance did that, he did everything to not break it, the capstan head was just to far corroded and the part failed, as with everything on Tally Ho decades of neglect have taken it's toll, the part failed and needed to be recast, which it was. Tally Ho truly is a ship of Theseus. Leo has taken her completely apart replaced 99.9% of her and reused what he could, this capstan is no different, repairing and upgrading the existing parts so she can last another 114 years.
@@CanizaM What has already be done by the Windy Hill Foundry - with not less hassle than Keith is having..
I'm really impressed with the engineer that came up with the fix for this project. It's pretty complicated from start to finish. But should last another 100 years without much problems. And the only thing that should be a wear part is the winch motor. Can't wait to see you on the next one.
Using Anchor Lube to machine parts to raise and lower an anchor, attention to detail, Master Level!
Came here for Tally Ho, but will be staying for the talent. Love that you don’t hide anything and let us see when things go wrong.
I used to drill a lot of CRES, Inconel, and titanium in the aerospace industry. It was challenging like that stainless. We had this one assembly for a C5 Air Force transport plane engine pylon that had a month lead time to get a new one if we messed it up. When I asked “what happens if we blow a hole?” I was told “just don’t.” Haha. No pressure. I never oversized a hole in 4 years.
Keith, it's such a joy to see you, again and again, apply your knowledge, experience and creativity in your work. I love seeing your on-the-fly problem solving in action.
The problem is simple the drill speed was too fast, basic Engineering 101
Maybe he will start on the Stoker Engine soon.
@@garybrenner6236 Lego would be my call lol
Thanks again Keith - I am sure many folk following this project are wooden boat boys and your explanations are really helpful.
Experience is also realizing early that you are about to get into trouble and knowing how to get out of the situation. This is why I watch guys like Keith Rucker and shipwrights.
This is quality work that’s going onto Tally Ho when Leo starts sailing the boat if ever I get to see it I will look at this capstan and think of all the work that’s gone into it that will still be there when I’m long gone .
I learned a new word today and that makes me happy. Chain Gypsy
You are certainly the perfect machinist to have been on this project. Been watching Leo for 6 years. They saved the best for last.
Such awesome modern technology, for a century old sailing ship.
Can understand why Leo asked Mr. Rucker to help. That capstan is a work of art.
Just wait 'til you see the new driveshaft, dog-clutch & engaging lever - it's a nifty, compact design.
The effort, work, and time...
An epic lesson of patientence and persistence!
So much fun to see the process and the surprises and the adjustments-and the knowledgeable comments that so many professionals who watch the channel are providing.
Thank you for sharing this video, and for sharing your knowledge and skills on how this is done.
Most interesting process. Never thought I'd be invested in the re-building of a 100+ yr. old capstan. Nicely done and well explained to those of us with a limited knowledge of machining. (Now, to look up work hardening)
So the little slug was holding on the drill and then spinning on the lower part heating it up and hardening the parts. Then you had to fight that. Wow always something to learn.
That slug work hardened just a bit of the surface under it as Keith stopped soon enough. Had to watch an apprenticeship candidate do something similar decades ago, it was hard to watch, you want to jump in and fix it, before the fact since we knew how. Waiting for the dawning realisation in the demeanour of the subject was the rewarding part. He has since completed, past, and mastered many other modes of craftmanship in the industry and retires soon.
At first I could not understand why the bit was not dull . Then I realized the slug was spinning.
First time I have some imput about your work. I millwrighted in the construction industries for 35+ years maybe 10 years in the food processing industry. Drilled maybe tens of thousands of holes thru many many different thicknesses of stainless steel . This is what I " Know " flattened cutting flutes on the drill bits on both cutting axeises, drill pilot holes, slow the driver down very slow, the use more pressure down when drilling !! You think drilling something stainless this thick is tough dry some 10ga sheet metal. Forgive my boldness. God bless you Sir
Thank you Keith for all that you do. You’re the shop teacher I never had. Thanks to you and all the trades who made and make this country great. There is no substitute for experience and a job well done! All the best!
I always learn something here, both from the videos and the informed commentary.
Continue to be fascinated by your problem solving skills. So much more goes into this than I for one would have imagined. 🇨🇦
I love that you show when you hit snags and how you get past them. Thanks!
Man i was worried when you were haunching down on that tap. Glad to see it worked out
I cringed when I watched you increase rpm. I hate stainless, spent 14 years doing maintenance in a food processing plant. Cobalt drills chip the edges too easy, new TIN drills aren't sharp until reground, good old fashioned black oxided bits are the best in my opinion. Tap magic made a heavy lube that worked well, can't recall exact name, got a bottle but not walking to shop to look. Looks like heavy black oil but it has tap magic in it. Probably can't buy it anymore but it works well.
I love my present job in a die shop, after stainless, d1 and a2 are like working with butter.
Keep making videos, love the new die mill, could have used it last week, made a fixture for rotab and got it done. Again thanks for videos.
i said out loud, noooooo what are you doing?!?!?
I worked on Budd stainless steel railcars for several years. It's a good thing I quickly figured out how to drill that special stainless alloy. I was able to use just one step drill the whole time.
Ages ago I briefly worked in a production machine shop turning and drilling pipe flanges in stainless and Inconel. If the drill point angle and the feed rate weren't correct that hole would smoke in a hurry. I recall going very slow but the chips tell the story.
It's a great pleasure to see Keiths various machines doing there jobs apparently effortlessly. Thank you Keith for sharing. Best regards Sarah
Well done on sorting out your sound levels in recent videos (the machining was great too!).
Such an interesting series of videos that you've put together Keith. It's very instructive watching you work your way through this project. And what a project! Just getting the capstan apart was an ordeal. Making the pattern was quite the exercise. Casting it was a challenge. Designing, making the gypsy, etc was another exercise. And now you get to put the whole thing together, along with a whole lot of machining. In a way it resonates well with the entire Tally Ho project which has been anything but easy! Thanks for taking the time to do all of these videos for us. It's well appreciated!
Probably been mentioned, but since the hole pattern is not perfectly symmetrical, stamping some corresponding marks into the gypsy parts and winch would save future maintenance people's sanity :)
I was thinking the same thing. I'm sure he put clocking marks on all three parts, but to your point, making them permanent is an excellent idea.
@@stevewoodard527I actually doubt Keith did that.
Know nothing about what you are doing, but always find your projects interesting and your discussion help me understand what and why you are doing something. Plus I like you show “ mistakes “ it makes the project “ real “.
Keep up the great work.
Your meticulous metal work is complimentary to the quality of Leo's teams woodworking. True master hand done craftsmanship
What is great about following Keith’s and Leo’s channels is the interplay between precision wood work versus the excellent machining and fitting. Real craftsmen.
SV Tally Ho was launched on April 18th and Leo posted the video of the launch 2 days ago , if you'd like to see a very fine sailing vessel
Leo's channel is actually > Sampson Boat Co < I've been watching her get restored for years , an amazing journey !
I’ve only watched a few videos of Tally Ho over the years (they were all very informative videos, just to busy to find the time) and I did watch the launch.
Very sentimental for the people involved, understandable, it’s such a fine ship with all the different crafts that were applied by so many craftsman. It seems that the craft is back and they should all be very proud of what they’ve built, Keith included. I’m sure that there was some discussion about the machine work that needed to be done by the engineer that was designing the capstan and Leo and they made another great choice by going with Keith Rucker as the machinist to perform the work,
Thanks for sharing Keith, see you on the next one.
Launch video: ua-cam.com/video/K3Rgj_Khflk/v-deo.htmlsi=5iPMSi97CF6QBVRv
Keith - love your channel, and I am very happy that we see it all, including the little problems. Who else could do this Capstan while we watch.
I was always taught to slow down your tool speed with SS not speed it up. Plus i reckon the temper on that drill is stuffed now.
The Black Book gives 978 RPM for CI and 478 for SS at 5/16 DIA so yes you are right.
Also noticed when tapping Keith just did a continuous cut, didn't back the tap off to break the chip.
I was taught to always back off the tap, no matter what material you are tapping.
Prevents that pitiful sobbing when a tap binds up and snaps off in a deep or blind hole.
@@bobdown6235Had me cringing too, especially when it obviously tightened up .
@@bobdown6235 ' Prevents that pitiful sobbing when a tap binds up and snaps off in a deep or blind hole.'
I really appreciate your attention to the project and being confident while im on the edge of my chair
Thanks
Again, I really enjoyed watching these processes, also I was glad to see that even professionals can have trouble drilling Stainless Steel!!
19:53 .. NICE one Keith!!, .. That small additional machinating, will improve the custom made bronze or brass, bolt's strength substantially!!
Wonderful Keith. Fascinating, entertaining, educational, absorbing. Thank you.
Good morning Keith! Have a great week.
Just love the attention to details you do on the capstan!
My wife sat down next to me this morning, right as you said, "we're going to have them awful close" at 9:30 and my wife says, "I thought machining was supposed to be precise?" I had to explain to her that there are tolerances built in to the drawings to allow for variance in the dimension of the part on which you're machining, especially when the part was cast that long ago.
Oh, man, I hate when work-hardening happens! Thanks to you and others I at least now know it's a thing. Being self-taught and inexperienced, I just didn't get why drilling sometimes became especially a bear, until spending time watching you teach all of us about working with metal, especially the very basic things that other makers might assume everyone knows. Believe me: we don't!
I gotta admit, too, that it makes me feel a little better about my own work to see that this kind of thing can happen to even experienced folks. I know that some others might have left that bit out of their videos. Commenters here explain why it happened in more detail, and that's interesting. But you already showed us yourself here in the video how to get beyond the problem. Thanks, Keith, for showing us the hard bits (ooh, I see what I did there!), too.
Thank You for sharing your wonderful life with us. You are The Doctor of Machining. Awesomeness Extreme!
Another perfect breakfast video, even including the scary moment. Great work, Keith.
Damn, that's a serious drill press.
Good show. Very interesting.
I am seriously impressed. Impressed with the engineer/designer who came up with the fix for the old capstan, impressed with the UK machinists , and impressed with your skill and professionalism Keith. Well done! Well done indeed!. I do have a question. Will not these dissimilar metals, cast iron, stainless steel and bronze form some kind of a battery in a salt water environment? Can anything be done to protect against that?
The rework on this thing was a major job!
Cobalt drill with Tap Magic for stainless steel. Been watching both you and the Tally Ho project for years. Thank you.
Another great video Keith! I really enjoy watching you problem solve real time when something doesn\t go exactly as expected. Thanks for sharing!
Always a pleasure to watch you work.
Drilling stainless , I was taught to drill at half speed or less!
That's a monster drill machine. What an amazing tool. I never saw anything like that...
I really enjoy your videos. I stopped in Tifton for lunch yesterday on our way back from Florida. Had you had an address listed, I might had tried a surprise visit
Thanks Keith. I am sure everyone that has ever worked with stainless has had an experiance that will give a fella the worst case of gas on record. When I was working with Inconel we found "Rapid Tap" and regular H/S tooling at reduced speeds worked best. I have been using it for all my drilling, tapping and threading. I see Tally Ho is now in the water. They nailed the weight and ballance perfectly. They still have a long way to sea trials yet. I am sure Leo is eagerly awaiting this piece from you.
I look forward to your videos just as much as I do Leo's -- interesting to an old retired casting engineer who's coordinated machining a lot of castings. Thanks for posting..
Fascinating series.
Knowing TH is in the water, I can't wait to see this beautiful unit installed.
Not a machinist. Don't know anything about. But it's a real treat to be able to watch a craftsman own his trade.
Thank you for bringing us along on the project.
When I took machine shop in high school I think we used lard as a lube. When the steel got hot the shop smelled like a kitchen.
Keith, you're a brave man. I've been doing a bunch of stainless work recently, and thinking about the grief that breaking a drill or tap would cause you in that setup, had me so tense I literally sighed with relief when you cut to having all the those bolts in place. Well done sir.
_HEAVY DUTY precision!_
Capstans are vertical shaft smooth drum winches, gypsies are horizontal shaft smooth drum winches, wildcats are what anchor chains wrap around to pull up
Hopefully all your work results in a ride on the boat!
Another excellent video, massive amount of information.
Perfectly done.
Surprised that stainless bolts were not called for.. I have fabricated with non-magnetic stainless steel and found that every drilled hole is a challenge to itself. The tolerance you are able to hold on your jobs is impressive, inspiring even !
Sure is a lot of work going into the Capstan, great skills again.🎉
Looking forward to seeing installed on Tally ho. Awsome work! 👍🏻
That Anchor Lube is magic stuff
Such a pleasure to watch your work. Calm and thorough explanation and video to show its execution.
Very captivating. Thank you
It's really excellent watching you work, Keith. Fascinating stuff. Thanks.
Thank you Keith!
Thanks for sharing 👍 I'm forwarding this to my son who was asking me about something like this.
Mixed metal drilling it takes me way back
Kieth, when you were making the flat surface on your first hole, the bit was wobbling as you put pressure on the bit. Not trying to be critical, and maybe you already know. Thanks for doing videos for us. Is much appreciated.
Wow Nice job Keith, great looking work.
Fantastic job thanks for sharing.
Hi Kieth, huge amount of work for you refurbing the capstan. Can I suggest when you come to final assembly that use anhydrous lanolin e.g. lanacote on all the bolts and threads. Regular grease absorbs moisture and allows corrosion. I have 30 years experience running an 80 year old wooden boat and have learnt the hard way.
I always struggle with stainless, but I am mostly working with pretty unsophisticated tools. So when Keith started setting up to drill I was surprised- it seemed as though he'd punch through the stainless like it was a piece of mild steel. No so much, I feel for you, Keith! Stainless is hard to work with.
Thank you for sharing.👍
I’ve really been enjoying your work on the Tally Ho capstan. One note (after a career at sea): The American Merchant Seaman’s Manual refers to the part you call the chain gypsy as the wildcat, a sprocketed wheel to haul in or pay out the chain. Cheers!
Ah, but Tally Ho is not an American Merchant vessel. Different strokes for different folks, remember.
Love to watch this! You are a genius!
really interresting as usual!
Enjoyed thanks for sharing Keith
Try this: Drill at a SLOW RATE and USE WATER INSTEAD OF CUTTING OIL.
This will keep the temps low enough to prevent hardening of the stainless which will ruin the bit.
Good for you great video thanks
Thanks Keith
Great project!
These are such good coding-accompanying videos. Just seems like a very nice chap and seems to have all the same problems I always have doing stuff and talks through it all calmly and sanely. Like a sort of therapy, I guess. Just need to find some more bits of the boat this guy can work on, must be something. New prop maybe?
28:16 ... If i remember I will post this when the brass bolts are made up ... but far as strength of winching in a big sailboat anchor??
The brass bolts are in double shear load, and 6 of them 3/8" Diameter, will provide enough strength, to lift a full 10 tons, before shearing off.
The machined mating surfaces between drum & gypsy are less than ideal, but most of the load should be resisted by friction between their faces, w/ the bolts acting in tension, not shear.
Highly appropriate that you use a product called anchor lube on a machine designed to haul up an anchor.
Happy Monday Georgia! 😊
they launched it on Saturday
Hope Leo doesn't need an Anchor this week!!!
Not really, no. It was published Saturday. TH has been launched for a week or so at least.
No, it was on the 19th, I think.
People can not grasp that most UA-cam videos are prerecorded sometimes weeks(or more) prior to the release.
Again, riveting, thank you.
Last time I worked stainless, we had to get carbide drill bits, as the titanium bits would do what yours did, and just melt a work hardened plug. Also the titanium oxide bits are only coated.
It's all the more interesting when things don't quite go as planned, and watching how you deal with it.
Love to see your craftsmanship
That stainless work hardening is no joke.