CNC Router Bits, What Are FEEDS & SPEEDS, Why Are They So Important!
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- Опубліковано 26 чер 2024
- This video helps you understand feeds and speeds, and why they are important. You will learn what the wrong feeds and speeds do to your CNC router bits. This video discusses how wrong feeds and speeds causes your CNC router bit to get too hot and get dull. You will learn to see the signs of improper feeds and speeds, as well. Keeping router bits sharp is important to maintaining good finishes in your cuts.
There are 2 things that can happen when the settings are wrong. The router bit will break if the feed and speed combination is too slow. The second problem, if they are set too high, is they will overheat the cutting edges of the CNC router bits, allowing them to get dull very quickly.
Feeds and speeds also affect the finish of your work. However, this video does not cover this part.
Feeds & Speeds Table will be available shortly.
ROUTER BIT SET FOR CNC ROUTERS
→ 8-pc Carbide CNC router bit set (w/ free vector files) bit.ly/3d1iQnF
→ 1” Surfacing bit required for surfacing your spoilboard:amzn.to/3jsDOgh
Use this discount code (UNW8VE2V)
→ Drag bit to do glass engraving w/ CNC router: bit.ly/3tRy98s
OTHER ‘MUST HAVE’ TOOLS FOR CNC ROUTER WORK
→ Calipers. For the price, it is a very good set: amzn.to/338MAt3
→ Hearing protection (plugs don't work): amzn.to/2Hs1RgW
If you currently own a CNC router, please take a moment to take this survey to share your experience with it: bit.ly/3r5XzNh
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VCARVE FOR BEGINNERS playlist: bit.ly/3pdmFsi
Cool vector files for CNC router & CNC laser: etsy.me/3oxX79l Learn how to start an online business from scratch: bit.ly/2ZUEIKK
Words are the top-selling items of all time with CNC products. Get the free WORDS THAT SELL list: idcwoodcraft.com/cnc-lp-1/
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#cnc #cncrouters #cncforbeginners #vcarvetutorials #vectric
Another great video. The new bits are great and the feed table you provide is incredibly helpful
Thanks Matt. I think you said this one twice!
Another great video Garrett. Also the bits have been great so far. The included feed table is very helpful
Hi Matt! Excellent! Yes, the table is a big deal.
Very informative! Learning new stuff all the time - thanks to your great videos!
Hey SB. Thanks and you're welcome
As usual, another great, informative, & helpful video by the One & Only. Haven't gotten to use all those bits yet, but, those I have used have been great.
Hey Patrick. Thanks brother. Yeah, I really like them. They are my go-to bits
Well put and really easy to comprehend.
Bill, I am so happy to hear that brother!
Great video! Thank you.
Hi Jim. Thank you!
Garrett, great video explaining the bits and the differences between MFG's. Ignore that other guy saying that your in it for the money.... I've seen other sites sell harder then what you mentioned off hand.... The guy is not worth your time. Keep up the good work. I know it takes a lot to produce and post as often as you do. You are appreciated!!!!
Thanks Paul. yeah, with all the comments on that video...a couple dislikers are nothing. caught me at a bad monent, I guess.
Another word used for the sap you mention is "pitch". As a general woodworker, I deal with that a lot on my table saw blades, Miter Saw blades etc. There are citrus based solutions sold in woodworking stores and on Amazon like Rockler Pitch and Resin remover and others. A good soak followed by a stiff nylon or brass bristle brush and it should come off. Some people use easy off oven cleaner. I wouldn't recommend that on carbide. It has a tendency to eat away at the carbide and I've read a lot of stories about carbide tipped saw blades breaking off.
Thanks Rob. A perfect addition to this video. I knew you'd come out with some help!
I soak my bits and blades in simple green and scrub with a stiff bristle brush it works amazingly well also pick up some plastic razor blades for scraping
Hi there,thanks.
Hi Fred. You're welcome
At about the 1:00 mark the feed/speed rate is mentioned but glossed over. This is the most important part to the life of the tool and needs to be addressed and understood.....even for the beginner.
In a nutshell the term "chip load" is used to gauge what size the chip is when it is removed from a cutting edge of the tool. The "chip" helps removes the heat generated. Without the proper size chip the heat is going to be retained in the tool. That's a bad thing.
Chip load is dependent on the number of flutes, spindle rpm and feed rate. Chip load is the feed rate divide by rpm times number of flutes. Feed rate/ (rpm x #of flutes) Below is an example of the 1/4" down cut router bit provided in the chart
1/4" down cut with 2 flutes, a feed rate of 75 ipm with 14,000rpm.
75/(14,000x2)= .0027" That's 2 thousandths of an inch chip load.
The more flutes the less material removed per revolution. The slower the feed rate the less material removed per revolution.
Like wise the less number of flutes the the more material is removed. The faster the feed rate the more material removed per revolution. The faster the rpm the more material it removes.
They all work in a relationship together. There are calculators furnished my the major tool manufactures that will do the calculations for you. I use Vortex tooling and their calculator app.
An example ...... a 1/4" 2 flute endmill can cut 1x-2x times it's diameter deep.
The feed rate will be around 300 inches per minute. The recommended general chip load will be .009"-.011" for optimum performance.
The problem is that the hobby machines are not capable of running at those speeds and not being able to make heavy cuts. Mostly this is due to not being rigid enough and the router HP. Tool life will suffer because the tool is going to be taking the heat instead of chip on account it cant be run fast enough. (saw dust really with feed speeds). The hobby machines will probably be fine with 1/8" tools and under. With anything bigger, shallow passes will be beneficial to your cut quality, machine and tooling life.
Hi Reload! Thanks for throwing this detail in. Because this is intended for beginners, I thought they wouold be just as glossed over. However, I am glad you explained it in such detail.
a good point you mentioned was the number of flutes. Most home CNc operators think more means it can go faster. I'll address this in a future video.
Please feel free to add to the things I miss in future videos.
To reduce burning/heat you should reduce your depth of cut and increase your feed rate. The feed rate for a 4 flute bit needs to be 4 time faster than a single flute or 2 times faster than a 2 flute
Thanks Bryan. Always good to get the input from other experts. Keep expanding on the things I miss.
Hey Garrett, should the XY feed speed be slower when your bit size decrease?
Example: 1/4 would run at 60ipm and a 1/16 would run at 30ipm
Hi Vastfill. Yes, the feeds and speeds are very different. Click this link to download a feeds and speeds table to see what they should be set at → bit.ly/3xiLebv
I probably missed it somewhere but are there charts available that can be used as guides for; wood types, depth of cuts,speed and travel 😉? Plus length of time for the next coffee ☕ break?
I'm working on this my friend. I want to put a chart on my website
Hi Garrett, considering to buy your end mill kit… Any way to ship it to Switzerland ?
Hi Alex. I've shipped to Switzerland before. I'll get it to you.
I would like to know where you set the feed and speed, is it in Vcarve?
Hi Cundi. Here is a video that explains it → ua-cam.com/video/670Xzgf0LiA/v-deo.html
And here is a free speeds and feeds table I put together. You'll find it has all the numbers you need → bit.ly/3xiLebv
I can't imagine anyone husing HSS bits anymore. When I got my first router in 1983 carbide bits were way too expensive but they are very inexpensive now.
For sure!
Hello. I work in a shop with a Kongsberg cutter. The problem is I am a novice (and I’m being generous), the last operator is gone and he didn’t know what he was doing anyway. I have been doing a lot of research on routing different materials. Trying to figure out the feed and speeds and depth of passes.
I’ve watched a couple of your videos and they’ve been very helpful and enlightening. But I’ve only seen you talk about wood specifically. And the guide you provide seems to be for wood as well.
How would I figure out the feed, speed, and depth for acrylic, metal, or dibond materials? Is it the same settings as wood but with a bit that says it’s for those materials?
Also, the Kongsberg gets up to 80k rpm and 50 mpm. A lot of what I’ve read has rpm up to 20k rpm maxed. When would I need a higher rpm anywhere between 40k - 80k?
Hi Cobalt, I'm sorry to hear you're having a hard time. Everyone has to start somewhere! I don't have that info put together yet, it may be some time before I develop it! There's so many variables for what we are doing that it's hard to answer that question with clarity in a comment.
And yes, as I continued watching this video (and making comments before finishing) Sap is a huge problem. Maybe when I make you do a video about WOOD, you could include me as the SAP to look out for.
I know, you're asking yourself 'where-in-the-hell' do I come up with this stuff? Well it's generally 3am when I can't sleep, watching your videos and decide to be annoying. And the same to you BUD!
William...you're secretly one of my favorite people aout there. Shhh...don't tell anyone I said that.
You have a fun spirit like I do. I've thought about throwing some humor into these videos. I think I'll start doing a bit more of that.
@@IDCWoodcraft Tread carefully, my friend, some people 🙄 may not have the same quality of understanding as we do. Although, a little quip now and then, can break any boring 😴 lesson.
Any idea on the extra cost to ship to Canada?
It costs $28 for me to ship to CA. Orders over $180 I will pay the duty fees.
Has anyone used G-Wizard software for Feeds-n-Speeds by Bob Warford?
RedReloader, that is a great software brother!
@IDCWoodcraft thank you for the reply. New to the CNC world and am enjoying your many videos.
Can I get a link for the bits please?
Hello Kipp. Sure, here is the link: bit.ly/3d1iQnF
Are you just getting into CNC?
@@IDCWoodcraft Yes. I purchased a nice Camaster machine to help with my guitar business. It's been sitting in my garage for 10 months because I've not been able to get the 2 day class that was included with the purchase due to this stupid fu€%#¥£! Pandemic. Spent 4 day's watching videos and have already made a couple of signs. I have starter bit set, but figured if I'm going to make a go of this, I want good tools. 35 years as a automotive technician has taught me that.
@@kipphockin5896 yeah. I always regret buying cheap stuff. Glad it's up and running. I see your order. It'll ship tomorrow and will take about 3 days. Thank you and would love to see the work you produce
@@IDCWoodcraft great, looking forward to making some wood chips with them.
I broke an o flute yesterday. 😢
Carlos, that's never fun brother! Was it an IDC bit bought in the last 90 days? If so, we have a bit guarantee you can find on the site here: idcwoodcraft.com/pages/the-idc-woodcraft-cnc-router-bit-guarantee.
BTW, you brought up 'direction of grain' and I imagine 'speed and travel 'are again factored in. Also, in this demo, you appeared to be using a piece of Oak with a good size knot. That, to me, is also a big concern for discussing. Maybe you did 'WOOD' or are going to.
Anything else I can do to make sure that you aren't going to have any time left 'to scratch your ass' (as my dad would say), I'll keep you on your toes with more in-depth and annoying questions.
You're welcome 😊!
Videos on knots? It's on the list just for you. It'll be out in about 1.5 years based on my video schedule (half of which is your requests)
Its more of a 1/4 moon shape
Jimbojam, you are so right on that one my friend.
I’ve never posted a negative comment on a UA-cam video before. But dude, you’re obviously in this to make money. Good for you, but that’s a huge turn off for me. Unsubscribing.
Hi Mark. Thank you for your thoughts and glad you spent time here. I hope that in your time watching, you did learn somethings about CNC routers.
Yes, I do want to make money. It's a necessary fact of life. And yes, I make money from this, as do most all people who have youtube channels.
The last thing I want to do is justify myself. However, let's put this in perspective.
I make $20 from the router bit set for those that sign up. For the general public, I make $40 per set. Not much of a markup in either case and not much to live on. Compare the prices to comparable bits.
I receive about $10/day from youtube due to ads on my channel (that's a good day).
I receive about $3.50 per day in commision from the affiliate links I provide which, by the way, does not affect what you would pay if you purchased things otherwise.
In all, I make about $1000 per month.
Now let's look at the other end.
The simplest videos I post (like this one) takes a minimum of 4 hours to get it in front of you. It will earn me about $1.00 per month.
The router bit set comes with six vector files that have an accumulated time to design and make of about 60 hours.
Then there's the knowledge I share with you. A life time of machining, engineering, business experience, etc. Thought out, outlines, rehersed, edited, posted.
At 59, I 'should be' preparing for retirement, getting ready to sit back and chill. But I'd rather give my knowledge away. If I can make a little money in the process...I think that is okay.
Stay safe my friend and thank you for spending time here.
And one more thing. I spend time dialoguing with every single person who comments on my channel plus all the emails I get. Given the amount of time I spend sitting at the computer, I make about $3 per hour.
Mark, I'm sorry that you felt so strongly about this, that you had to comment and unsubscribe. I have been following this channel from its beginnings and its nothing but good information.