Third try to get my idea input. Maybe the problem is in your Static system - generally, though, you would see something in your Alt and VVI. You may have your static port(s) installed where the builder's manual indicates, but maybe relocation might be in order. Try this: Attach a flexible clear plastic hose to the static port of the AS indicator. Take the other end and "drop" it in the back of your fuselage. Could even use a T - trying connecting to your "new" static system and see what the AS reads, then attach the regular static system input to the gauge. See if there's any change. Static systems can cause problems. Or, just vent the AS static, of the AS indicator, to the cockpit. That's way this is all Experimental. :) Thanks, N-6395T (now retired.)
I enjoy the still photos with the narration over them. As for the copper crush washers, I believe you can coat them with permatex aircraft sealant for extra sealing capacity. Let dry before installing.
Nicholas Lambert Permatex is a general name that some people take to include silicone. The stuff I refer to is Permatex aviation Form-A-Gasket item 800-19. Putting a thin coat on copper crush washers is common practice in automotive mechanics. To my knowledge, it does not flake off.
I glanced over where you said Aviation. Haha, my mistake. I have used that on machined to machined surfaces but never on banjo fittings. Different strokes I guess. I anneal the washers and clean up the surfaces, never have to use sealant.
Just back the fittings off slightly and retorque firmly has worked for me. Of course you got be careful of over torqueing the aluminum fittings. Or as others have said, the annealing and lightly sanding the washers with fine grit. But I wouldn't give up on the banjo's, they are fine and used in many different applications. Tapered pipe thread gets looser the more disassembles and reassembles like on a fuel filter I think. I don't care for tapered pipe thread myself.
I have used those banjo fittings a million times. If it continues to leak, rub them across 120 grit sand paper. This adds small groves that smash and will stop then leaks. I usually go in one direction. Also they make a plastic one that does work better. Just, of course, make sure its fuel rated.
Mark, I just did the 50 hr replacement on the fuel filters, I have the exact same setup as you. I just snugged up the banjo fittings and after running both on ground and in air with both pumps, I get no leakage at all. I noticed that the % power was not registering on your Dynon. I have been experimenting and doing additional research with my Dynon HDX and discovered that if you set the engine type to Lycoming (it does not have any change effect on your UL settings) that % power is now showing. The Dynon manual says it only shows if the engine is set to Lycoming, Continental or Superior, and since the 350is is basically a "baby" Lycoming it worked. Additionally, my Airspeed was bouncing all around as well and I had to "redo" the calibration for the Pitot Static system again now it is rock solid...just some tips I have discovered during my flying.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast You may have to adjust Fuel Flow as well. I do not have the "red cubes" and the Dynon was defaulted to 68k pulses which is not correct unless you are running the "cubes". That one is still a research project for me. When I adjusted it to the 48l per hour pulse number which is around 48k pulses my fuel flow increased by about a third...
Very nice Airplane! I was thinking to buy that engine to install on a Just aircraft Highlander .What do you think compared to the rotax 914 engine. Highlander dealer told me that engine will not perform well on that airplane. better choice a rotax he said. How do you feel the UL POWER? Are you satisfied with it?
I can't compare it to a 914 because I've never owned or flown behind a 914, but the UL Power has been trouble free so far and runs very smoothly. If you are flying out West in high density altitudes, the 914 might actually be a better option because it is turbo charged. Keep doing research.
Great videos. Propeller pitch, ideally should be set 10 - 15% lower than max rated engine RPM at static runup, at least for a Lycoming at 2700. This gives a good compromise. Aluminum crush washers work far better than copper, just make sure they are only used once. Happy flying and follow your excitement.
I'm not sure what the exact measurements are, but there is a lot of room. It has a very wide cabin since the doors bubble out 3" on each side. If you look at the Super Duty from Zenith, they have what's called the "unpanel" where they've removed the instrument panel. That really opens the cockpit up and there's plenty of room in there. If you're a "big dude" you might consider looking at the Super Duty as it's a bigger, more powerful airplane that would have no problems with big guys!
Kitplane Enthusiast yeah, the super duty would be the one I would look at. The problem is, I don’t think I would be skilled enough to build one of these. It seems to be the perfect airplane to just to fly low and slow in my area (BC) . My understanding is you buy the airplane, and the motor and build it?
Thanks for the Update it still is the nicest cruzer yet. A quick question i am starting to prime some interior parts and i bought the SPI epoxy Primer like you used, man im a brush and aerosol painter in the past now new learning curve with HVLP, question how many coats of primer did you apply? Thanks John
On the fuel system, the Banjos using copper washer, I am sure that we used washers with rubber ring in the middle. Like these www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/seals/washers/parts/178006ERL
What about trying o rings on a fuel pump and filter, unless the fuel is bad for them, I don't know if you can get them so they won't deteriorate. Just a thought.
BMW specifies aluminum crush washers (search: metal sealing washers) for all sealing applications on their motorcycle engines. I purchase them from McMaster-Carr. I'm not familiar with aircraft rules so I don't know if you can use aluminum or not.
Everything you see on my system is direct from the engine manufacturer as they designed it. It really should work with the copper washers so I'll try new washers and see if the leak stops.
Zenith specs this plane to cruise at 118 mph with 100HP,,, why do you think yours numbers are so shy of this? Do you think prop pitch will get you there?
I have no idea. Mine should be identical to the factory plane (although I think they did switch to the 118hp engine.) I have to keep testing the prop pitch as well as the pitot-static system to make sure it's indicating correctly.
No questions, just admiration. Thank you
Beautiful acft. Great job. Zenith is my favorite stol / kit acft. Definitely one I’d like to build
Third try to get my idea input. Maybe the problem is in your Static system - generally, though, you would see something in your Alt and VVI. You may have your static port(s) installed where the builder's manual indicates, but maybe relocation might be in order. Try this: Attach a flexible clear plastic hose to the static port of the AS indicator. Take the other end and "drop" it in the back of your fuselage. Could even use a T - trying connecting to your "new" static system and see what the AS reads, then attach the regular static system input to the gauge. See if there's any change. Static systems can cause problems. Or, just vent the AS static, of the AS indicator, to the cockpit. That's way this is all Experimental. :) Thanks, N-6395T (now retired.)
Great looking Zenith. You've done an amazing job.
Love the pictures!! Awesome! It's like I was there!
I enjoy the still photos with the narration over them. As for the copper crush washers, I believe you can coat them with permatex aircraft sealant for extra sealing capacity. Let dry before installing.
Nicholas Lambert Permatex is a general name that some people take to include silicone. The stuff I refer to is Permatex aviation Form-A-Gasket item 800-19. Putting a thin coat on copper crush washers is common practice in automotive mechanics. To my knowledge, it does not flake off.
I glanced over where you said Aviation. Haha, my mistake. I have used that on machined to machined surfaces but never on banjo fittings. Different strokes I guess. I anneal the washers and clean up the surfaces, never have to use sealant.
Saw this plane at 9G2 last week and here is is in my recommended page. Small world!
BEAUTIFUL airplane. Well done. 👍😊👍
Just back the fittings off slightly and retorque firmly has worked for me. Of course you got be careful of over torqueing the aluminum fittings.
Or as others have said, the annealing and lightly sanding the washers with fine grit. But I wouldn't give up on the banjo's, they are fine and used in many different applications. Tapered pipe thread gets looser the more disassembles and reassembles like on a fuel filter I think. I don't care for tapered pipe thread myself.
Such a great plane. I'm so jealous.
The plane is beautiful. Always loved Blue Angel livery. There’s something about it, kinda like the “Gulf Racing” livery that pops.
Thats quite an accomplishment. Congrats.
copper 'crush' washers may be too hard. Anneal them on the bench with a propane torch.
I have used those banjo fittings a million times. If it continues to leak, rub them across 120 grit sand paper. This adds small groves that smash and will stop then leaks. I usually go in one direction. Also they make a plastic one that does work better. Just, of course, make sure its fuel rated.
Thanks for sharing the information on performance and issues. I like the way you deal with all of this.
Well done, inspiring!
Mark, I just did the 50 hr replacement on the fuel filters, I have the exact same setup as you. I just snugged up the banjo fittings and after running both on ground and in air with both pumps, I get no leakage at all. I noticed that the % power was not registering on your Dynon. I have been experimenting and doing additional research with my Dynon HDX and discovered that if you set the engine type to Lycoming (it does not have any change effect on your UL settings) that % power is now showing. The Dynon manual says it only shows if the engine is set to Lycoming, Continental or Superior, and since the 350is is basically a "baby" Lycoming it worked. Additionally, my Airspeed was bouncing all around as well and I had to "redo" the calibration for the Pitot Static system again now it is rock solid...just some tips I have discovered during my flying.
Awesome thank you for the tips. That % power not showing was something I've been meaning to look up in the manual. Appreciate the tips!
@@KitplaneEnthusiast You may have to adjust Fuel Flow as well. I do not have the "red cubes" and the Dynon was defaulted to 68k pulses which is not correct unless you are running the "cubes". That one is still a research project for me. When I adjusted it to the 48l per hour pulse number which is around 48k pulses my fuel flow increased by about a third...
Very nice Airplane! I was thinking to buy that engine to install on a Just aircraft Highlander .What do you think compared to the rotax 914 engine. Highlander dealer told me that engine will not perform well on that airplane. better choice a rotax he said. How do you feel the UL POWER? Are you satisfied with it?
I can't compare it to a 914 because I've never owned or flown behind a 914, but the UL Power has been trouble free so far and runs very smoothly. If you are flying out West in high density altitudes, the 914 might actually be a better option because it is turbo charged. Keep doing research.
Awesome report will be looking forward to more reports as you continue the test card.
Fuel seepage was also THE issue that I had with mine, so, you aren't alone
I'm not a big fan of these copper crush washers!
Ah... any flying progress is good progress. Nicely done, keep going!
Sorry about the fuel leaks. Hopefully you will be testing again very soon .😎👍✈
Absolutely Beautiful Plane 🙂
Great videos. Propeller pitch, ideally should be set 10 - 15% lower than max rated engine RPM at static runup, at least for a Lycoming at 2700. This gives a good compromise. Aluminum crush washers work far better than copper, just make sure they are only used once. Happy flying and follow your excitement.
Great job on a beautiful airplane.
Doesn’t that fuel filter use straight threads? And that “T” fitting is pipe thread?
Apply Easy Turn lubricant. It used to be called Fuel Lube. Fuel and oil does not effect it!
Thanks for the update
You should anneal the washers before install
I just rebuilt the fuel system and this time I did anneal them. Let's hope it works better now!
It will for sure
To add to that, after annealing, try lightly lapping them on a fine hone or stone 1500+ grit. Works every time.
Are you still planning to build a Zenith STOL CH750 Super Duty? If so, what is your timetable for the build?
Yes. As soon as I can afford it!
Use aluminum crush washers.
Whats the cabin room like on these? and useful load? I am a big dude, I wonder how I would fit.
I'm not sure what the exact measurements are, but there is a lot of room. It has a very wide cabin since the doors bubble out 3" on each side. If you look at the Super Duty from Zenith, they have what's called the "unpanel" where they've removed the instrument panel. That really opens the cockpit up and there's plenty of room in there. If you're a "big dude" you might consider looking at the Super Duty as it's a bigger, more powerful airplane that would have no problems with big guys!
Kitplane Enthusiast yeah, the super duty would be the one I would look at. The problem is, I don’t think I would be skilled enough to build one of these. It seems to be the perfect airplane to just to fly low and slow in my area (BC) . My understanding is you buy the airplane, and the motor and build it?
Can you explain in detail how you determine your best vx and vy in a new plane. Thanks
This EAA book will tell you everything you want to know! eaa.org/Shop/ProductCatalog/Product.aspx?ID=2695484&SubTopicID=941
What power-plant?
UL Power 350iS
Thanks for the Update it still is the nicest cruzer yet. A quick question i am starting to prime some interior parts and i bought the SPI epoxy Primer like you used, man im a brush and aerosol painter in the past now new learning curve with HVLP, question how many coats of primer did you apply? Thanks John
I spray a light coat in a North-South direction, then wait 15-20 minutes and spray another light coat in an East-West direction.
On the fuel system, the Banjos using copper washer, I am sure that we used washers with rubber ring in the middle. Like these www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/seals/washers/parts/178006ERL
Opinion of your UL motor so far? I keep coming back to the 350, I'm just still a little trepidarious. Time for the awards at Osh!
It runs smooth and hasn't let me down yet.
What about trying o rings on a fuel pump and filter, unless the fuel is bad for them, I don't know if you can get them so they won't deteriorate. Just a thought.
BMW specifies aluminum crush washers (search: metal sealing washers) for all sealing applications on their motorcycle engines. I purchase them from McMaster-Carr. I'm not familiar with aircraft rules so I don't know if you can use aluminum or not.
Everything you see on my system is direct from the engine manufacturer as they designed it. It really should work with the copper washers so I'll try new washers and see if the leak stops.
Zenith specs this plane to cruise at 118 mph with 100HP,,, why do you think yours numbers are so shy of this? Do you think prop pitch will get you there?
I have no idea. Mine should be identical to the factory plane (although I think they did switch to the 118hp engine.) I have to keep testing the prop pitch as well as the pitot-static system to make sure it's indicating correctly.
Banjo fittings - straight from hell (just like the instrument!)
Hey I like the banjo! LOL
Fake news, it’s a 7 minute 30 second report, not 5 hours!