Disc replacement R 1200 GS
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- Опубліковано 5 січ 2025
- As you will probably know if you want to slow manoeuvre on your bike it helps greatly if you set the revs, apply a slight amount of rear brake and slip the clutch, this enables you to travel slower than first gear would normally allow whilst remaining stable.
I noticed a pulsing sensation during such slow manoeuvring, I have associated this fault with a warped disc (rotor) in the past, but this item had been replaced only six months early (2500 miles) and when checked proved to be running true.
During an inspection of the disc I noticed a break pad shaped rust patch with quite deep pitting, it makes sense to me that this area on the disc would offer greater friction than the rest of the smother surface that was not pitted, thus the pulsing sensation.
Here in the UK salt is spread on the main roads when snow or ice is forecast, salt accelerates rusting, I know that unwisely I had put my bike away without giving it a good wash down with plane water one several occasions, I won’t be doing that again, it’s a costly price to pay for laziness.
The bike is a BMW R 1200 GS April 2006 model.
![🔧🛠 [HOW TO] BMW 1200GS /1250GS REAR brake pad replacement TUTORIAL](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/G2A0BJLZig8/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Chris I’ve used the existing bolts again many times on both front and rear discs without any detrimental effects, as far as I can remember the Haynes manual doesn’t say change them for new but I would check that.
I can understand why BMW would say replace with new, firstly for posterior covering purposes, secondly I think BMW inflate the price of everything, bikes, parts, clothing and accessories as they see their main customers as cash rich types fit and ready to be MILKED.
Thanks for commenting Chris happy spannering and safe riding, John from sunny Devon UK
Thanks John,great video just what I need to give me the confidence and info to replace the rear disc on my 2005 GS. Disc is out of true.
Thank you kind Sir, as I said I'm not a mechanic but it's useful to see someone elce have a go at a job you intend to do, thanks for commenting, regards John from sunny Devon UK 🇬🇧
A BMW mechanic recommended loctite for disc rotor bolts. on BM@W MOA there is a discussion that seems to conclude that blue loctite is sufficient.
Hi Stephen, yes I think the Haynes manual says use Lock tight as well. I've done both used blue Lock tight and no Lock tight at all. I think in future I would use Blue Lock tight. Thanks for commenting, ride and spanner safe, regards John from sunny Devon UK 🇬🇧
Hi John,
Mixed results. Following your video the whole job took me about 15 minutes. Unfortunately the cheepo long torx snapped at 12Nm... while tightening. Gotta get a set so I can finish up, otherwise a big thumbs up for the instructions. Thank you!
Hi Oliver there is something wrong with the quolity of the bit for it to bust with so little force, hope you get the job finished soon, safe riding JP
Another great home mechanic video. Cheers John.
Thanks Dave it's always a joy to receive a comment, I am so surprised how much that dodgy disc was impairing my slow riding, I think the fault crept up on my slowly so I didn't notice how bad it was getting.
hi sir many thanks for the video,i'd like to changer the disc for my bike(BMW C-600 Sport 2012) later and may i have the torque value for the bolt of disc and wheel.
Nice video, very helpful, thanks for taking the time to upload.
Hi Rigs likewise thank you for tacking the time to comment, happy mechanicing and safe riding, John from sunny Devon UK
thank you for this vidéo good and very clean work red from Lyon France
You have to heat the bolts using a heat gun to soften the loctite before attempting this.
I'm told by BMW that the disc bolts are (allegedly) one-time use are should be replaced with a new set. I think this is BS, but not sure. Anyone have a valid reason why?
Another great video, well done
To loosen the 5 bolts of the disk I use a heat gun and warm-up the bolts. They come loose so easy then....
Thanks for commenting Maurice that's a good tip, I have seen other people loosening Locktite with a heat gun, I recon if I got a difficult one to undo I would try that tactic,safe happy bikeing to you sir, John from Sunny Devon UK
Hi from Texas. Great Video except I do wish you would have shown how to do the Brake Pads as well. Still, I enjoyed the Video and look forward to more.👍👍
Hi there from Texas, thanks for commenting and I'm glad the film was of some use and enjoyment. I did consider showing work on the actual brake pad change but I thouht that so meany other people had covered this topic that I wouldn't bother, but I can see it would have been nice to have everything included in one film. Safe riding and keep enjoying that fine weather in Texas, regards John from sunny Devon UK 🇬🇧
Muchas gracias! 😘
Most helpful thank you so much.
Hi John. Great Video. Was wondering if you've done this on a R1250GS? It seems there's insufficient physical clearance around the final drive casting to access the 5 off disk bolts.
Hi there, no not done that job on the 1250 but that's interesting as I have a 2015 LC GS now and all three of my discs are below the service limit and need changing, I haven't had a close look yet, will do that and report back, but of course the 1200 and 1250 may not be exactly the same. Thanks for viewing and commenting, regards John from sunny Devon UK 🇬🇧
Hi I just had a look at my R1200 LC GS rear disc and can see that if you crouch down on the left side of the bike facing the final drive unit there is a small half circle relief in the casting at the five o'clock position allowing access to the disc fixing screws, (note, this is of course on the opposite side of the bike that I worked on in my video, as the final drive is on the right side of the earlier GS models). I can't see BMW not doing the same on the R 1250 models as it would turn a quick and simple job of changing the disc into a right old performance if you had to drop the final drive down to get to the screws, but, you never know do you. Case in point why oh why do the 1200 models NOT have a drain plug in the final drive as the 1150 and earlier models do, to drain the oil on them you have to disconnect the final drive unit from the prop shaft and tip it forwards to drain out the oil. hope this is of help, regards John.
Hi have a look at this Guy, link below, I know its a different job he's doing but at 16:36 in the film you can see the relief and the disc screw almost in alignment so it is possible to change the disc reactively easily. I see that the 1250 has had the oil drain plug reinstated, Hip Hip Hurray. Happy spannering and ride safe!
ua-cam.com/video/20Avra3SDWY/v-deo.html
@@JohnPatrick58
Hi John, so kind of you come back to me. Thanks for your time and link. Yes, I agree it looks like it's possible but when I insert a long T40 shank on to the bolt, it engages with a angle ( not perpendicular). I don't want to try and turn incase I chew the head. But looks like I need to be brave and try it. Thanks again.
@@JohnPatrick58
Thanks. The R1200GS looks okay re this issue. Best wishes from Sunny Surrey, at the moment.
Carlos
Well done john
Thanks for commenting hope the film was of some use and interest, safe riding, John.
Hi,
Very helpful video!
What torx bit extension tool did you use with the disc bolts?
Thank you
Hi Oliver it was just a standard 1/4 inch extension from Amazon but it is inside a length of steel tubing which I turned down in diameter, this was done so when the extension was braced against the final drive casing the Torx bit was in line with the bolt recess and not skewed to one side which might cause the Torx bit to slip, I think I might have some footage that I didn't use which I might be able to edit into a short film, thanks for commenting Oliver, good luck with your repair and safe riding, JO
Hi John,
thank you for the reply, just ordered extra long torx bits from eBay, fingers crossed it will do the job.
I look forward to see more of these videos!
kind regards
Thanks for commenting, the torx extension was just something I found on Amazon or eBay, the sleeve that holds the extension perpendicular to the bolt was a piece of ole tubing I found at my works, luckily it was a perfect internal fit but I had to turn down the outer diameter, thanks for your interest, John
Olá amigo qual o torque aplicado ?
Adeus Frend, primeiro 14Nm, depois 30Nm para os parafusos do disco.
What brand /model of torque wrench is that?
Hi Johnny, it's a Draper, model No 3004A. I bought it about 9 years ago, it's just a DIYers tool but very well made. I wouldn't of payed much more than £30 for it but of course that's quite a while back now. Thanks for viewing and commenting, happy spannering and ride safe, regards John from sunny Devon UK 🇬🇧