I’ve been a technician for 28 years, and this is one of the first videos I’ve seen where somebody actually knew what they were doing and talking about good job buddy
😂👍, is always a good idea to desamble the whole basket and inspect it , aswell as suspensions systems and he drive hub component, (basket balance load support), good washers overall. 👍
Try tightening the flywheel first to fix unbalanced load issues. It worked for me. Turn your washer on its side ( tape the lid shut to prevent it from opening and disconnect the water supply lines) Use a ¼” allen wrench to tighten the flywheel (bolt is in the middle of the round wheel) . It will be tight to turn. You can use a short piece of pipe on your wrench for extra leverage. Wear gloves so if the wrench slips you won’t hurt your hands. Hope it works🤞
On most of these washers the problem is the shaft,it rusts out and the drum gets stuck on it. The drum has a large flotation chamber on the bottom and a smaller hollow ring on the top,both have a small amount of liquid in them to aid in balancing. If the tub is seized on the shaft it will not float up or down and have all kinds of problems with washing and spinning,going off balance etc. I just replaced the shaft and bearings +seal in ours, and cleaned all the connectors at the computer. The washer works better now than it has ever worked, better than when it was new. To check if the shaft is your problem, just grab the tub under the upper ring on opposite sides and pull up and let it down,it should move up and down about 3/8' without binding. If it does not,time to replace the shaft and bearings. The shaft is made from very poor quality steel and will rust out in a matter of years causing all kinds of problems. The shaft I took out of ours will go into the lathe when I have some time,I'll machine it down and install a stainless sleeve on on it, because it is only a matter of time before it is needed, the refurbished one will last us the rest of our lives.
@@caylee3277 spray with electric contact spray, work the connector in and out a few times, works very well. The wife loves her machine now, but to get the water at the highest level uses only the "bulk "setting.
Whoi are you ? Undercover superhero ? I thought thats what it was but never worked in a washer before so now I feel ok taking this action plus you showed me how to do it
Just tried this - found 2 socks, one headband, and some other thing I think may have been underwear? Running a new load now. Fingers crossed no uL at 12 minutes!
Another video shows how to take out the entire wash basin to get the clothes out. That seems to have fixed my F51 error but the UL error still pops up.
I have a different model while tilting over machine to see if Allen bolt needed to be tightened at bottom as suggested in another video, I was surprised to see socks. What is your cash app so I can thank you for all the money I just saved.
Well amazingly I didn't find any clothes in there, just maybe 1/4" of water in the inside. Somehow, just opening it up and looking around allowed me to finish the load without the "uL" error popping up at 12 minutes. If it continues in future loads, I may see if there is still water inside and try to siphon it up somehow.
There are 2 screws in the back that release the top to slide forward and up. Any UL code will be an unbalanced load you could redistribute the clothes to maybe even it out but when the tension springs are too warm out you will have to replace them but I have a secret repair for them
I checked all four and they seem fine, but it produces UL code and the alarm sounds, but in manual mode it starts hitting the wall and then stabilizes.
Thanks for posting this. I’ve been looking for a video with this exact washer. I’m not able to get the top to open. I’ve tried a butter knife but it doesn’t give. Is there a step I’m missing? I’ll give the flathead screwdriver a try.
Two green tabs on the back - you just have to remove the top screws - ¼" hex head I think. His washer must not have them anymore. Once you remove the screws, pull the top of the water towards the front, then it should hinge up.
I’ve been a technician for 28 years, and this is one of the first videos I’ve seen where somebody actually knew what they were doing and talking about good job buddy
I will have to try this. Doesn't UL all of the time, but does on "bulky" items, like bedspreads.
This fix also works for MVWB450WQ2, I found one sock in mine. Thanks a lot.
You're the hero we need. Answering the inmemorial old question 'where did the other sock go?"
Hope this is my problem. Mines a little newer but keeps on stopping at 12 minutes. Last time it worked I overloaded it so this would make sense.
😂👍, is always a good idea to desamble the whole basket and inspect it , aswell as suspensions systems and he drive hub component, (basket balance load support), good washers overall. 👍
Try tightening the flywheel first to fix unbalanced load issues. It worked for me. Turn your washer on its side ( tape the lid shut to prevent it from opening and disconnect the water supply lines) Use a ¼” allen wrench to tighten the flywheel (bolt is in the middle of the round wheel) . It will be tight to turn. You can use a short piece of pipe on your wrench for extra leverage. Wear gloves so if the wrench slips you won’t hurt your hands. Hope it works🤞
Thanks guy. Got dam washing machine was driving me crazy
Glad I could help, seriously. That was why I bothered making videos in the first place.
On most of these washers the problem is the shaft,it rusts out and the drum gets stuck on it.
The drum has a large flotation chamber on the bottom and a smaller hollow ring on the top,both have a small amount of liquid in them to aid in balancing.
If the tub is seized on the shaft it will not float up or down and have all kinds of problems with washing and spinning,going off balance etc.
I just replaced the shaft and bearings +seal in ours, and cleaned all the connectors at the computer.
The washer works better now than it has ever worked, better than when it was new.
To check if the shaft is your problem, just grab the tub under the upper ring on opposite sides and pull up and let it down,it should move up and down about 3/8' without binding.
If it does not,time to replace the shaft and bearings.
The shaft is made from very poor quality steel and will rust out in a matter of years causing all kinds of problems.
The shaft I took out of ours will go into the lathe when I have some time,I'll machine it down and install a stainless sleeve on on it, because it is only a matter of time before it is needed, the refurbished one will last us the rest of our lives.
How do you clean the connections
@@caylee3277 spray with electric contact spray, work the connector in and out a few times, works very well.
The wife loves her machine now, but to get the water at the highest level uses only the "bulk "setting.
Whoi are you ? Undercover superhero ? I thought thats what it was but never worked in a washer before so now I feel ok taking this action plus you showed me how to do it
The hero we all needee
Thanks for posting this video, we have the same model same problem. My husband is doing this now.
glad to hear it, hope you end up getting it figured out! in the end I ended up replacing the springs, which was easy enough.
@@jperrod1979 did that resolve the issue? I have the same model and keep getting
We need a response, did it work?
Didn't work for us😢
How did he open that because mine is screwed shut
Doing test run. Found some long lost bloomers. Hopefully this will solve it.
Just tried this - found 2 socks, one headband, and some other thing I think may have been underwear? Running a new load now. Fingers crossed no uL at 12 minutes!
TY! God bless you!
Why thank you!
Another video shows how to take out the entire wash basin to get the clothes out. That seems to have fixed my F51 error but the UL error still pops up.
My issue was the RPS. (Rotor Position Sensor). It is a $25 sensor that fixed everything.
@@ong8897 It's a cracked Stator. We're just going to get a new machine.
@@ong8897 where do you change that and where to get it
Maytag washer: why are you treating me like a car
I have a different model while tilting over machine to see if Allen bolt needed to be tightened at bottom as suggested in another video, I was surprised to see socks. What is your cash app so I can thank you for all the money I just saved.
Well amazingly I didn't find any clothes in there, just maybe 1/4" of water in the inside. Somehow, just opening it up and looking around allowed me to finish the load without the "uL" error popping up at 12 minutes. If it continues in future loads, I may see if there is still water inside and try to siphon it up somehow.
There are 2 screws in the back that release the top to slide forward and up. Any UL code will be an unbalanced load you could redistribute the clothes to maybe even it out but when the tension springs are too warm out you will have to replace them but I have a secret repair for them
Grease?
I checked all four and they seem fine, but it produces UL code and the alarm sounds, but in manual mode it starts hitting the wall and then stabilizes.
And I forgot to say that the bearings sound like an airplane, but I don't have much of a tool, would it be worth getting what I need?
Thanks for posting this. I’ve been looking for a video with this exact washer. I’m not able to get the top to open. I’ve tried a butter knife but it doesn’t give. Is there a step I’m missing? I’ll give the flathead screwdriver a try.
Two green tabs on the back - you just have to remove the top screws - ¼" hex head I think. His washer must not have them anymore. Once you remove the screws, pull the top of the water towards the front, then it should hinge up.
Awesome! Thanks
Thank you sir
My maytag washer will not hold water
that Goliath comment though lol
"Quick video"... 6 minutes.