Wish I saw your channel earlier to help save you the trouble. These engines are known to show low or no oil pressure at the gauge. half of the time it's the gauge, the other half of the time it's the sensor itself even when brand new and the other half of the time and usually the one that solves the problem is the stock oil pump. Your best bet was to put a mechanical gauge and test. The fuel injection system will continue running even with no oil pressure readings from the sensor. I highly highly recommend upgrading the oil pump. I have a 280z, I had low oil pressure readings at idle with my Z for the last 5 years since I bought it, even after a engine rebuild. My Z ran fine even with the low oil pressure at idle. Went through sensors, and gauges and eventually upgraded to a Kameari oil pump and instantly got higher oil pressure readings and finally got oil pressure at idle too. So I recommend upgrading to the Kameari pump or a 280zx turbo pump. If you are had trouble starting or running. I'd guarantee you if it's not spark, or fuel related, it's the EFI system. One of the reasons I swapped to Triple Webers. Looking forward to watching your progress.
thank you so much. I’m new to these engines but I have been building Chevy engines for 20 years.. I did check everything like you are saying but that thing had no oil pressure at all.. and the guy I got it from was on drugs.. I drove this car 20 years and everything worked so it freaked me out when it did nothing.. feel free to comment what ever you want., I want to know everything about these cars
@@chriscraft77022 Of course man! I know nothing about Chevy engines so I'd be in the same situation as you. And you can never trust people selling anything. Based on what I saw from the video, everything looks great. I'd recommend just inspect everything else and cleanup the engine. And just replace the oil pump with one of the two I mentioned and install those sweet SU carbs you got, replace the sensor and maybe the gauge if it's bad. As long as you have some oil pressure above 1200rpms with a mechanical gauge. I wouldn't worry about it. These engines are extremely reliable but the electronics of these cars are not.
@@chriscraft77022 Personally I don't recommend staying stock. I recommend upgrading to at least the 280zx turbo pump as everyone I know upgraded due to the same issues including myself. However, if you are trying to save some money, put the engine back together and make sure you at least have oil pressure above 1k rpm, and if you do, you should be fine tbh. Like I said, I ran the car for 5 years with "no oil pressure" reading on my gauge at idle.
I believe you will have no oil pressure at the pressure switch until the oil filter is full?!!, I would have first took the oil filter off and turned the engine over with the starter and looked for oil flow!!, also the oil pump is on the outside of the block, an easy 4 bolts to swap a new one in, and look for oil pressure before pulling the engine, also I enjoy all your videos, and will be here till the end!!!!, you are a very smart man Chris!!, Charlie in Pensacola,
yeah, i did all that in an earlier video.. i pulled the engine cause not even a single drop came out of the sender hole even while cranking.. and the filter was 100% dry.. even as it sat sideways it was empty!!!! too many red flags.. and they guy i got it from does meth
Thanks for the reply!!, like I said you are a smart man in a lot of different fields, A jack of all trades, that is why I like your channel so much!!, it's nice that you bring us along with your projects!! Well with this build as you know the oil pump is bad, let's hope most of the other parts are useable, hopefully only rings, bearings,and gaskets,!! Good luck!, also I have owned a few Datsan's 510's ,1969-72, at least 6 or 8 of them, and a couple of the trucks, all of them had the 4cyl, 1600eng's, same block set up as the 6cylinder you have now! They were great cars, and so was the engines, I bought them all used and one was tapping in the top end, took the oil filter off and cranked the engine up to check for oil flow, the was weak, so I took a oil pump off a parts car, and tried it, and oil went everywhere!!!, so the oil pumps do go bad, but also that car drove on for years after!!!, if I could find one now, at a good price I would buy it!!, I am in to vintage motocross, dirt bikes, 1981yz465, 1982cr250, 87&92cr250, all fun bikes, they are my sons now, but do have fun with them when I can!!!,
thank you so much for that info. I did notice how high the piston went up to the deck but first time ever tearing down one of these… I will let you know if I need any parts .. I bought that water neck already from zcarstore
@@chriscraft77022 No Problem. I have 2 77 280z's one running, one on a rotisserie I am restoring. I bought 2 parts cars and have stripped them and they are crushed but I have ALOT of the parts. Just shoot me a message.
i need to drive it stock first... 20 years ago i would of done that.. the main reason i doubt i will ever do that though.. is because weight distribution on this car is almost perfect.. i already have 2 bad ass fast V8 cars... but yes, you are so right
You made it so far. You must have taken several brakes when you were removing all those oil pan bolts. Keep them vids coming. I like you humor.
Wish I saw your channel earlier to help save you the trouble. These engines are known to show low or no oil pressure at the gauge. half of the time it's the gauge, the other half of the time it's the sensor itself even when brand new and the other half of the time and usually the one that solves the problem is the stock oil pump. Your best bet was to put a mechanical gauge and test. The fuel injection system will continue running even with no oil pressure readings from the sensor. I highly highly recommend upgrading the oil pump.
I have a 280z, I had low oil pressure readings at idle with my Z for the last 5 years since I bought it, even after a engine rebuild. My Z ran fine even with the low oil pressure at idle. Went through sensors, and gauges and eventually upgraded to a Kameari oil pump and instantly got higher oil pressure readings and finally got oil pressure at idle too. So I recommend upgrading to the Kameari pump or a 280zx turbo pump. If you are had trouble starting or running. I'd guarantee you if it's not spark, or fuel related, it's the EFI system. One of the reasons I swapped to Triple Webers. Looking forward to watching your progress.
thank you so much. I’m new to these engines but I have been building Chevy engines for 20 years.. I did check everything like you are saying but that thing had no oil pressure at all.. and the guy I got it from was on drugs.. I drove this car 20 years and everything worked so it freaked me out when it did nothing.. feel free to comment what ever you want., I want to know everything about these cars
@@chriscraft77022 Of course man! I know nothing about Chevy engines so I'd be in the same situation as you. And you can never trust people selling anything.
Based on what I saw from the video, everything looks great. I'd recommend just inspect everything else and cleanup the engine. And just replace the oil pump with one of the two I mentioned and install those sweet SU carbs you got, replace the sensor and maybe the gauge if it's bad. As long as you have some oil pressure above 1200rpms with a mechanical gauge. I wouldn't worry about it. These engines are extremely reliable but the electronics of these cars are not.
So you don’t recommend aftermarket stock oil pump?
@@chriscraft77022 Personally I don't recommend staying stock. I recommend upgrading to at least the 280zx turbo pump as everyone I know upgraded due to the same issues including myself. However, if you are trying to save some money, put the engine back together and make sure you at least have oil pressure above 1k rpm, and if you do, you should be fine tbh. Like I said, I ran the car for 5 years with "no oil pressure" reading on my gauge at idle.
Also those are 280zx flat top pistons. So you have a high compression bottom end. Make sure to run premium in it. The factory 280z pistons are dished.
I believe you will have no oil pressure at the pressure switch until the oil filter is full?!!, I would have first took the oil filter off and turned the engine over with the starter and looked for oil flow!!, also the oil pump is on the outside of the block, an easy 4 bolts to swap a new one in, and look for oil pressure before pulling the engine, also I enjoy all your videos, and will be here till the end!!!!, you are a very smart man Chris!!, Charlie in Pensacola,
yeah, i did all that in an earlier video.. i pulled the engine cause not even a single drop came out of the sender hole even while cranking.. and the filter was 100% dry.. even as it sat sideways it was empty!!!! too many red flags.. and they guy i got it from does meth
Thanks for the reply!!, like I said you are a smart man in a lot of different fields, A jack of all trades, that is why I like your channel so much!!, it's nice that you bring us along with your projects!! Well with this build as you know the oil pump is bad, let's hope most of the other parts are useable, hopefully only rings, bearings,and gaskets,!! Good luck!, also I have owned a few Datsan's 510's ,1969-72, at least 6 or 8 of them, and a couple of the trucks, all of them had the 4cyl, 1600eng's, same block set up as the 6cylinder you have now! They were great cars, and so was the engines, I bought them all used and one was tapping in the top end, took the oil filter off and cranked the engine up to check for oil flow, the was weak, so I took a oil pump off a parts car, and tried it, and oil went everywhere!!!, so the oil pumps do go bad, but also that car drove on for years after!!!, if I could find one now, at a good price I would buy it!!, I am in to vintage motocross, dirt bikes, 1981yz465, 1982cr250, 87&92cr250, all fun bikes, they are my sons now, but do have fun with them when I can!!!,
Good progress
I don’t know a lot about these engines, I appreciate you taking the time for a quick tear down ! “Crackhead style” had me laughing
I have the coolant housing and thermstat cover. Plus a bunch of other parts. Let me know if you need anything.
thank you so much for that info. I did notice how high the piston went up to the deck but first time ever tearing down one of these… I will let you know if I need any parts .. I bought that water neck already from zcarstore
@@chriscraft77022 No Problem. I have 2 77 280z's one running, one on a rotisserie I am restoring. I bought 2 parts cars and have stripped them and they are crushed but I have ALOT of the parts. Just shoot me a message.
9:10 fucking real
6.0 swap time!
i actually have a 6.0/4L80e .... but that swap is going in my c30 dually project..
Trash that motor and trans and retro fit a new motor trans in there. Maybe like small block Chevy and turbo350 or 4l60
i need to drive it stock first... 20 years ago i would of done that.. the main reason i doubt i will ever do that though.. is because weight distribution on this car is almost perfect.. i already have 2 bad ass fast V8 cars... but yes, you are so right
That's a new crank and pistons