I wanted to chime in and say how much I appreciate these videos. They are very clear and easy to follow. No filler/fluff and I enjoy the content. I've been looking at plasma tables for years, and your videos made my decision easy.
Thanks for taking the time to go through this. I just got the same table and I’m going through the “learning curve”… not so much fun so far.. but it’s encouraging to see your progress and gives me ideas on a straight edge for long, oversized cuts etc…. Keep up the great content.
@@ntdracing Yeah, I may end up down that path one day, I just bought the Pro to do car parts. At this stage however I can't think of anything that will require more than the Pro. But here's hoping I will need to upgrade one day. I'm actually glad UA-cam suggested your channel, it's actually right up my alley! Excellent stuff!
For positioning, I would make mounts that fit between the frame and cut piece. That way you could just push the work piece against the mounts and get the same y position all the time.
Hey Dave! I just got my CrossFire Pro setup and was surfing around UA-cam learning about index cuts and there you were! Great minds think alike I guess. Thanks for the tips.
Well done sir! Thank you for sharing your experience with the cutter. I am in the process of assembling mine right now. Great things to consider in the future!
great work! I have acualy built a similar cnc table and I am using ipt 60 torch. I was having an issue with a torch misfire. I could not figure it out, I even took apart my Herocut plasma cutter to make sure if the electronics is ok. The problem was only with the pierce delay. Some of the plasma cutters have some safety switch. When you fire the torch and slowly drag the torch from 3mm to 1,5mm it blows the material so much that the pilot arc switch is thurned on. As soon as the pilot arc starts he plasma automaticaly disengages the current flow. So every time you have a misfire, try to shorten the pierce delay. From now on I only use pierce delay with 5mm and thicker material.
Hey, very cool! I’ve got about half of the boxes of my Langmuir Pro so far, and am gathering that it’s certainly going to be a bit of a learning curve once I get everything bolted together. Stumbled upon your channel, which seems serendipitous, as I am also a J10 fan, and have dreams of hauling ass in the desert. I’ll subscribe for sure. Look forward to watching more! Thank you!
Great video I had the exact same reservation on buying this plasma table because of not being able to do a full sheet. After watching this it gives me some ideas on fabricating an extension for holding the material and moving the material with a peace of flat bar on the one side as a guide (think table saw guide) so you have something to slide the material against to keep it true. Fyi the 3d printer link is unavailable.
Speaking of jealousy...I'm seriously considering the Langmuir table as a shop addition next year. Very cool to see it in action. Love the quick and dirty 3D printed pointer system. It'd be pretty trivial to mount a cheap, battery operated laser pointer to one side of the torch mount and account for the offset so you'd never have to remove the torch. For a standard sized sheet (or multiple sizes, if you got industrious), you could also make a jig that would physically index off of the gantry rails to center and square a 48" wide piece of stock without going to the trouble of marking it out and switching tools. I really like Fusion 360 - been using it for a few years now for most of my crazy projects. They just neutered the hobbyist license a bit when it comes to CAM (particularly when it comes to rapids - G00 moves), curious about how that's affected you, if any.
Excellent video just stumbled across your channel ,I was debating about the pro table and you answered my number one concern. Really enjoy your channel on the bend tech software. new subscriber 👍
first and foremost, GREAT JOB. Could I help by letting you know,you could make a holder for a fine point sharpie, and trace-out your part before fire off. again, thanks for teaching me about indexing. I am in the process of purchasing a crossfire-pro, not exactly thrilled about the backorder date,lol. happy cutting.
I think if you take out the 90deg on your set up, it will take out that lead in. Not 100% sure as I'm still learning myself. I also drag a box around the part to select everything. It's just a little quicker. Thanks for your videos on this machine. I'm going to post some when I get mine set up. We need good videos on this thing. I was excited to see you posted one. This was great info!
WOBBLIN GOBBLIN even when I selected no lead in and lead out, it still added a lead in. It ended up not being a big deal for the type of cut I was doing.
I really liked and appreciate your videos. I have a suggestion. Before starting an operation make sure your lap top has wifi turned OFF. I haven’t used or done any plasma cutting, however I do operate two CNC machines doing wood carving both 2D and 3D. I use Vetric Aspire software and love it, during one of the many tutorials I have listened to Vetric mentioned that you should never run G Code on the CNC when the computer is connected to the internet, .Occasionally I would run a G Code file on my dedicated computer while it was connected to the WiFi., Weird things would occur that I couldn’t explain. Not every time, but enough times that I ruined more than one expensive piece of material…. Then I ran across a tutorial that warned against having your computer connected to WiFi. Since then I have made sure my WiFi was turned off in that computer. I have not experienced any anomalies since turning WiFi off before running GCode.
Just a thought as I watched this....would it not be better to cut the holes and openings from the part before the part is cut? Two reasons, first being that the part could shift slightly when it's free from the sheet and the opening may not be perfectly oriented. More importantly, there is no direct ground to the part after it has been cut out. The plasma current would have to travel through the water table slats and possibly cause arcing or misfires. Great video, intriguing ideas!
It would be amazing if you could do a simple project from beginning to end. From concept to a cut piece. I'm have difficulty with fusion 360. Thanks in advance if you choose to do so.
What is the model plasma cutter you are using? I have a Lincoln Pro Cut 55 . It works but the flame starts after the LS crosscut starts to move. Great videos', very helpful.
@@ntdracing when I cut a part that I plan to bend later, I often cut some lines along the bend line, to make it much easier to align everything on the bending brake. To do so, I create a cut operation with no kerf compensation (center) and disable lead in - lead out - piercing clearance to have a perfectly straight and centered cut.
Do you happen do have the stl for your 3d printed alignment tool? Ordered my pro 2 weeks ago and anxiously awaiting the arrival. Keep up the great content
I'm starting a bussiness myself. And after watching your videos, I think I'm gonna get a crossfire. What software does it run, ie solidworks? Or do you have to get software separately?
The only software that must be run with the CrossFire is FireControl which controls the table and is free. You need to make G code to put into FireControl. To do that you need a Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) program. That can be SheetCam or Fusion 360. The CAM needs something to convert to G Code. That is made in Computer Aided Design. There are many places that you can do that like Fusion 360, SolidWorks and many more. I like Fusion 360 because it is CAD/CAM all in one and free for home use. I do have SolidWorks and SheetCam but have not committed to learning how to use them yet. Hope this helps. Good luck.
After you inverted your part, why did you choose to cut the external contours in a counter-clockwise direction, given the best cut quality will be on the right side of the arc? I understand you will be starting at your original origin, but whats the harm in starting the second half where the first cut ended (right side)?
I agree, but it was the only way I could figure out how to line up the next cut. As it turns out, it was close enough for my project. Results might not be desirable for art work.
@@ntdracing yeah that confused me too. I'd think that, even if you keep the same side, as long as you zero all axes on the same spot, it should be able to move on the other side and cut it as accurately.
Not much at all. The worst mess you would get is after the cut program finishes. The plasma torch will continue pushing out air for about 5 seconds. If the last part you cut falls into the water table (small parts will) the torch will blow directly into the water and some will splash out. With that in mind, I will try to cut small parts in the center of the table so the splash stays in the table. I will also try to quickly jog the torch over the uncut sheet to avoid splashing the water. All that said…it is not that much.
Forgive me, I'm a newbie...I was confused when you were talking about "perpendicular to the gantry" . Isn't what you achieved parallel to the gantry? Loved the vid otherwise!
If the fire control crashes or shuts down... Those us who own these think about this kind of stuff and compensate for that scenario all the time. People looking to buy a CF Pro are prolly like whaaaaat, that's a thing? lol
I was having issues with fire control until I started rebooting my computer before any cut. When I am done with Fusion 360, I close everything, re-start the computer and only have Fire Control running during the cut. This has completely eliminated any freezing issues. Hope that might help for you too.
epoxymaster.com. I went with light grey and the clear coat with no flake. The 100% solids kits cost more, but are totally the way to go. If you do not get a bunch of sunlight on your garage floor, I would recommend not using the clear and plan on putting the base down a little thicker. We just did that on my buddy’s garage floor, and it is a mirror.
Suggestion - Use the 3D printer to make yourself a pen holder and use it in place of that plug. Let the machine make the reference lines and you will get better/easier accuracy. Also, check this out for a cool automated pen plotter head thingy... ua-cam.com/video/c3LhK2SAusk/v-deo.html
I have been watching this video for about 15 minutes and this really sounds complicated it does not seem like a friendly tool to use I don’t understand why because I’ve been looking at these plasma cutters and tables and researching and everybody else it seems like things are easier use more friendly I don’t get it.
I think you picked my most difficult video to make. Index cutting is one solution to cutting parts larger than your table. Not the easiest thing to do. Check out ua-cam.com/video/tj8a0xNrOHw/v-deo.html. It really is easy to use.
Oh my god why wouldn't you 3-D print a cap that fits over the end of your torch rather than having to take the whole fucking torch out....oh geez....😁. Dude, I love all your stuff. Did you really great videos and I appreciate all your content on the Langmuir systems. Thanks!
I wanted to chime in and say how much I appreciate these videos. They are very clear and easy to follow. No filler/fluff and I enjoy the content. I've been looking at plasma tables for years, and your videos made my decision easy.
Glad you like them. More to come with the next truck build. Code NTDRacing should get you a discount at checkout.
Thanks for taking the time to go through this. I just got the same table and I’m going through the “learning curve”… not so much fun so far.. but it’s encouraging to see your progress and gives me ideas on a straight edge for long, oversized cuts etc…. Keep up the great content.
I purchased this exact table and your videos not only are extremely helpful they are and thorough. I can’t wait for it to get here.
Thanks.
Watching that second cut, I was nervous for you!
I was so nervous I bought the XR. The next trailing arms will be easier to make.
@@ntdracing Yeah, I may end up down that path one day, I just bought the Pro to do car parts. At this stage however I can't think of anything that will require more than the Pro. But here's hoping I will need to upgrade one day. I'm actually glad UA-cam suggested your channel, it's actually right up my alley! Excellent stuff!
Thanks. More to come.
For positioning, I would make mounts that fit between the frame and cut piece. That way you could just push the work piece against the mounts and get the same y position all the time.
ahh but you're never guaranteed that the actual steel is square, this way guarantees them that an independent square is always the point of reference.
Hey Dave! I just got my CrossFire Pro setup and was surfing around UA-cam learning about index cuts and there you were! Great minds think alike I guess. Thanks for the tips.
Would love to see what you are building now.
Wow the workstand with the roller is pure genius!!
Thanks
Man that's great tech, I'm using that in the future, thanks!
Thanks for the videos looking at the Crossfire pro now . Also great job .
Thanks...I think I use the CrissFire Pro in almost all of my videos. Best purchase I ever made.
Saved this one for later! Thanks! 👍
Awesome video. Your great at informational videos. Thanks
Well done sir! Thank you for sharing your experience with the cutter. I am in the process of assembling mine right now. Great things to consider in the future!
👍👍Great video, very impressed.
Thanks for the informative video. Great work!
Thanks. Glad you liked it. Many more in this playlist. ua-cam.com/play/PLMrLQ2KnHk278moWUTSnQ62D_7I30qJDX.html&si=Qcwfo4V-XK2oYcKK
Great idea on the 3D printer pointer. Loved the video. Ciao, Marco.
Very cool...Thanks for watching.
great work! I have acualy built a similar cnc table and I am using ipt 60 torch. I was having an issue with a torch misfire. I could not figure it out, I even took apart my Herocut plasma cutter to make sure if the electronics is ok. The problem was only with the pierce delay. Some of the plasma cutters have some safety switch. When you fire the torch and slowly drag the torch from 3mm to 1,5mm it blows the material so much that the pilot arc switch is thurned on. As soon as the pilot arc starts he plasma automaticaly disengages the current flow. So every time you have a misfire, try to shorten the pierce delay. From now on I only use pierce delay with 5mm and thicker material.
Thanks
Hey, very cool! I’ve got about half of the boxes of my Langmuir Pro so far, and am gathering that it’s certainly going to be a bit of a learning curve once I get everything bolted together. Stumbled upon your channel, which seems serendipitous, as I am also a J10 fan, and have dreams of hauling ass in the desert. I’ll subscribe for sure. Look forward to watching more! Thank you!
Many thanks.
Great video I had the exact same reservation on buying this plasma table because of not being able to do a full sheet. After watching this it gives me some ideas on fabricating an extension for holding the material and moving the material with a peace of flat bar on the one side as a guide (think table saw guide) so you have something to slide the material against to keep it true. Fyi the 3d printer link is unavailable.
Speaking of jealousy...I'm seriously considering the Langmuir table as a shop addition next year. Very cool to see it in action. Love the quick and dirty 3D printed pointer system. It'd be pretty trivial to mount a cheap, battery operated laser pointer to one side of the torch mount and account for the offset so you'd never have to remove the torch. For a standard sized sheet (or multiple sizes, if you got industrious), you could also make a jig that would physically index off of the gantry rails to center and square a 48" wide piece of stock without going to the trouble of marking it out and switching tools. I really like Fusion 360 - been using it for a few years now for most of my crazy projects. They just neutered the hobbyist license a bit when it comes to CAM (particularly when it comes to rapids - G00 moves), curious about how that's affected you, if any.
Excellent video just stumbled across your channel ,I was debating about the pro table and you answered my number one concern. Really enjoy your channel on the bend tech software. new subscriber 👍
Thanks.
The back side of the torch holder you could mount a laser pointer permanent then you can watch it travel your line. Just a suggestion.
first and foremost, GREAT JOB. Could I help by letting you know,you could make a holder for a fine point sharpie, and trace-out your part before fire off. again, thanks for teaching me about indexing. I am in the process of purchasing a crossfire-pro, not exactly thrilled about the backorder date,lol. happy cutting.
Thanks....it is worth the wait.
I think if you take out the 90deg on your set up, it will take out that lead in. Not 100% sure as I'm still learning myself. I also drag a box around the part to select everything. It's just a little quicker. Thanks for your videos on this machine. I'm going to post some when I get mine set up. We need good videos on this thing. I was excited to see you posted one. This was great info!
WOBBLIN GOBBLIN even when I selected no lead in and lead out, it still added a lead in. It ended up not being a big deal for the type of cut I was doing.
@@ntdracing Can you set your lead in or outs to something like .054mm or 1/64th"?
@@paramotortheory it is enough to set the pierce clearance to zero - no more lead in.
I really liked and appreciate your videos. I have a suggestion. Before starting an operation make sure your lap top has wifi turned OFF. I haven’t used or done any plasma cutting, however I do operate two CNC machines doing wood carving both 2D and 3D. I use Vetric Aspire software and love it, during one of the many tutorials I have listened to Vetric mentioned that you should never run G Code on the CNC when the computer is connected to the internet, .Occasionally I would run a G Code file on my dedicated computer while it was connected to the WiFi., Weird things would occur that I couldn’t explain. Not every time, but enough times that I ruined more than one expensive piece of material…. Then I ran across a tutorial that warned against having your computer connected to WiFi. Since then I have made sure my WiFi was turned off in that computer. I have not experienced any anomalies since turning WiFi off before running GCode.
Just a thought as I watched this....would it not be better to cut the holes and openings from the part before the part is cut? Two reasons, first being that the part could shift slightly when it's free from the sheet and the opening may not be perfectly oriented. More importantly, there is no direct ground to the part after it has been cut out. The plasma current would have to travel through the water table slats and possibly cause arcing or misfires.
Great video, intriguing ideas!
It would be amazing if you could do a simple project from beginning to end. From concept to a cut piece. I'm have difficulty with fusion 360. Thanks in advance if you choose to do so.
What is the model plasma cutter you are using? I have a Lincoln Pro Cut 55 . It works but the flame starts after the LS crosscut starts to move. Great videos', very helpful.
❤️❤️❤️
wondering if you had the stl file for a 3d printer for your alingment tool you would be willing to share
What kind of power does your computer need to have to run these systems, thanks for the vids
To get rid of the extra lead in, set the pierce clearance to zero (and disable lead in-lead out)
That must be it. I will try doing that. Thanks.
@@ntdracing when I cut a part that I plan to bend later, I often cut some lines along the bend line, to make it much easier to align everything on the bending brake. To do so, I create a cut operation with no kerf compensation (center) and disable lead in - lead out - piercing clearance to have a perfectly straight and centered cut.
Do you happen do have the stl for your 3d printed alignment tool? Ordered my pro 2 weeks ago and anxiously awaiting the arrival. Keep up the great content
I can find it and try to post the .Stl on www.NTDRacing.com. Will let you know when it is up.
Shouldn’t it cut the inside holes first?
how is the smell (with water table) in a closed garage for guys just playing at home? does it put off a lot of fumes?
Not bad. I usually open doors when cutting steel and run a fan when cutting for a long time or cutting aluminum.
Nice job, where did you get the casters you are using for the table?
ua-cam.com/video/jAaCMGJNGXE/v-deo.html. I have the link in the comments to this video.
@@ntdracing thank you.
I'm starting a bussiness myself. And after watching your videos, I think I'm gonna get a crossfire. What software does it run, ie solidworks? Or do you have to get software separately?
The only software that must be run with the CrossFire is FireControl which controls the table and is free. You need to make G code to put into FireControl. To do that you need a Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) program. That can be SheetCam or Fusion 360. The CAM needs something to convert to G Code. That is made in Computer Aided Design. There are many places that you can do that like Fusion 360, SolidWorks and many more. I like Fusion 360 because it is CAD/CAM all in one and free for home use. I do have SolidWorks and SheetCam but have not committed to learning how to use them yet. Hope this helps. Good luck.
Great video question were did you purchase the rollers to help hold the sheet metal
amzn.to/3d5YRD2
This one is close to the ones I have. Thanks for watching.
NTD Racing thank you..
whats the smallest hole you have been able to cut with this?
I think it depends on consumables and thickness of piece being cut. I usually do not cut holes smaller than .25, but I am sure you can.
After you inverted your part, why did you choose to cut the external contours in a counter-clockwise direction, given the best cut quality will be on the right side of the arc? I understand you will be starting at your original origin, but whats the harm in starting the second half where the first cut ended (right side)?
I agree, but it was the only way I could figure out how to line up the next cut. As it turns out, it was close enough for my project. Results might not be desirable for art work.
@@ntdracing yeah that confused me too. I'd think that, even if you keep the same side, as long as you zero all axes on the same spot, it should be able to move on the other side and cut it as accurately.
How much of a mess does the unit create around your shop through cutting?
Not much at all. The worst mess you would get is after the cut program finishes. The plasma torch will continue pushing out air for about 5 seconds. If the last part you cut falls into the water table (small parts will) the torch will blow directly into the water and some will splash out. With that in mind, I will try to cut small parts in the center of the table so the splash stays in the table. I will also try to quickly jog the torch over the uncut sheet to avoid splashing the water. All that said…it is not that much.
Forgive me, I'm a newbie...I was confused when you were talking about "perpendicular to the gantry" . Isn't what you achieved parallel to the gantry? Loved the vid otherwise!
I guess parallel to the gantry motion and/or perpendicular to the gantry.? Thanks.
If the fire control crashes or shuts down... Those us who own these think about this kind of stuff and compensate for that scenario all the time. People looking to buy a CF Pro are prolly like whaaaaat, that's a thing? lol
I was having issues with fire control until I started rebooting my computer before any cut. When I am done with Fusion 360, I close everything, re-start the computer and only have Fire Control running during the cut. This has completely eliminated any freezing issues. Hope that might help for you too.
OMG your floor - details?!?
Garage floor?
@@ntdracing yeah, it's amazing - polished and white epoxy or something?
epoxymaster.com. I went with light grey and the clear coat with no flake. The 100% solids kits cost more, but are totally the way to go. If you do not get a bunch of sunlight on your garage floor, I would recommend not using the clear and plan on putting the base down a little thicker. We just did that on my buddy’s garage floor, and it is a mirror.
@@ntdracing man, I appreciate that - it looks amazing and your space is so much brighter than what I'm used to.
Can you tell me the cost
ua-cam.com/video/iJxOgQ91kcA/v-deo.html
I think I put the costs in this video. Hope it helps.
Suggestion - Use the 3D printer to make yourself a pen holder and use it in place of that plug. Let the machine make the reference lines and you will get better/easier accuracy. Also, check this out for a cool automated pen plotter head thingy... ua-cam.com/video/c3LhK2SAusk/v-deo.html
your fusion license for personal .... this seems pretty commercial to me.. i guess they make up for loss of revenue by exposure from your vid?
What do you mean commercial, this is a guy cutting pieces for his Jeep, come on...
I have been watching this video for about 15 minutes and this really sounds complicated it does not seem like a friendly tool to use I don’t understand why because I’ve been looking at these plasma cutters and tables and researching and everybody else it seems like things are easier use more friendly I don’t get it.
I think you picked my most difficult video to make. Index cutting is one solution to cutting parts larger than your table. Not the easiest thing to do. Check out ua-cam.com/video/tj8a0xNrOHw/v-deo.html. It really is easy to use.
Oh my god why wouldn't you 3-D print a cap that fits over the end of your torch rather than having to take the whole fucking torch out....oh geez....😁. Dude, I love all your stuff. Did you really great videos and I appreciate all your content on the Langmuir systems. Thanks!