I think there is a lot to be said for getting models done, especially when it's for something like Zombicide and other Kickstarter games where you end up with 100+ miniatures. There seems to be a lot of snobbery in getting models perfect, in this case, it's a wonderful way of getting the miniatures to a decent looking standard and at speed. Keep it up.
I'm going to back the Hellboy Kickstarter, and then I look over at my shelf and realise I have 'The Walking Dead - All Out War' untouched, and 'Dark Souls'. Characters will get a nice paint job for my standards... the Zombies? Bring me some DIP!
Painting Troll Haha :) Yeah I know. I'm going to think about Hellboy. It looks very cool, but I still have all those Green Horde kickstarter extras coming in...
Fantastic work as always! Love how quick these seemed to paint up but with detail still taken for textures and blood. Question, did you regret not painting directly under them until after you laid down the sand? I imagine it made it slightly harder to get in there.
Thanks KoA :) I think it looked harder on camera than it actually was - you know how it is - the awkward angles you paint at when filming. But the sand didn't really create any problems - other than a bit flaking off when it got wet from the paint.
greetings @Heroes & Bosses, Great Video as always! I was wondering if you are using Testors Dullcote Varnish for any particular reason or would Army painters Matt varnish do exactly the same result when applied? I wanted to begin painting my zombicide collection now but i can only find offers for Testors Dullcote shipping from the US which adds quite some shipping fees to the prize.
Army Painter matt varnish is what I used for most of my models. It's much cheaper, and it looks EXACTLY the same. The only difference is that Testor's Dullcote seems to be a bit stronger when you scratch the model - but you really have to be trying to damage the model when you do this. I tried them both and Testor's seem just a tiny bit tougher - also I can walk down the street and buy Testor's Dullcote at a store that sells it at half price pretty much every day. Long story - but yes, Army Painter matt varnish is excellent!
What do all think of these buildings for a Green Horde 3D board?: www.kickstarter.com/projects/rocketpiggames/tilescape-gothic-city-3d-printable-modular-buildin
One can, used properly will coat dozens (maybe even a hundred) miniatures. Once coated they are really well protected. You also usually don't need to do any highlighting after - the finished product looks good with low effort. The downside is that it's poisonous, smells horrible and you need mineral spirits (I used "odorless turpentine") to clean your brushes after. I also use gloves and a respirator. If you can't open a window while using it, the smell is pretty intense.
Some people use the "dip and shake" method to coat a pile of minis really quickly, and you don't need a brush to do this. If you wanted to say paint 100 skeletons in a day, you could prime them all in skeleton bone, then "dip and shake" the mini in the quickshade and then just spray them with matt varnish after 24 hours. They'd look a little sloppy, but 100 times better than just unpainted.
Thanks I think I will try, currently working on Green Horde. The fact that it protects them well is a big plus. Also btw your vids are great big help. Thank you!
chris patty It stays quite dark - but after you use a matt varnish on it the details become very clear. It always looks terrible until it's dried and you use the matt varnish. I usually go with bright colors for this reason - everything gets darkened down a shade or two.
Mouth
Army Painter - Tanned Flesh
Citadel - Ceramite White
Skin
Citadel - Death World Forest
Citadel - Ogryn Camo
Clothes
Citadel - Doombull Brown
Citadel - Steel Legion Drab
Armor
Formula P3 - Pig Iron
Citadel - Screaming Skull
Citadel - Driad Bark
(Add textures, sand, dry brush, paint base borders)
Army Painter Quickshade Strong Tone
Oxid in armor
Citadel - Typhus Corrosion
Citadel - Mournfang Brown
Citadel - Ryza Rust
Eyes
Citadel - White Scar
Gory details
Citadel - Blood for the Blood God
Thanks!
nice to see orks being painted in a different way
They look great, I especially like their faces.
KurtKn1sp3l Thank you :)
Awesome as always!
Thank you :)
great job, these look really good! maybe i should get some quickshade...
It stinks, but gives nice results! Good for large armies that you don't want to highlight, and it covers them in a hard protective layer. Win-win! :)
Very nice!
Thank you, Frank :)
I think there is a lot to be said for getting models done, especially when it's for something like Zombicide and other Kickstarter games where you end up with 100+ miniatures. There seems to be a lot of snobbery in getting models perfect, in this case, it's a wonderful way of getting the miniatures to a decent looking standard and at speed.
Keep it up.
Thanks - and I agree 100%. I want to get them done *before* I get sick of playing the game :)
I'm going to back the Hellboy Kickstarter, and then I look over at my shelf and realise I have 'The Walking Dead - All Out War' untouched, and 'Dark Souls'.
Characters will get a nice paint job for my standards... the Zombies? Bring me some DIP!
Painting Troll Haha :) Yeah I know. I'm going to think about Hellboy. It looks very cool, but I still have all those Green Horde kickstarter extras coming in...
I think those are actually supposed to be zombie orks. Their stance and lack of weapons seems to hint at this.
Yes they are orks! In the game I believe they are called "orc fatties".
the name of the game also hints at it
Fantastic work as always! Love how quick these seemed to paint up but with detail still taken for textures and blood.
Question, did you regret not painting directly under them until after you laid down the sand? I imagine it made it slightly harder to get in there.
Thanks KoA :) I think it looked harder on camera than it actually was - you know how it is - the awkward angles you paint at when filming. But the sand didn't really create any problems - other than a bit flaking off when it got wet from the paint.
Woot! Glad to hear it :D
greetings @Heroes & Bosses, Great Video as always! I was wondering if you are using Testors Dullcote Varnish for any particular reason or would Army painters Matt varnish do exactly the same result when applied? I wanted to begin painting my zombicide collection now but i can only find offers for Testors Dullcote shipping from the US which adds quite some shipping fees to the prize.
Army Painter matt varnish is what I used for most of my models. It's much cheaper, and it looks EXACTLY the same. The only difference is that Testor's Dullcote seems to be a bit stronger when you scratch the model - but you really have to be trying to damage the model when you do this. I tried them both and Testor's seem just a tiny bit tougher - also I can walk down the street and buy Testor's Dullcote at a store that sells it at half price pretty much every day. Long story - but yes, Army Painter matt varnish is excellent!
ah perfect, Thank you alot! I will work with army painters matt varnish then untill i can get my hands on testors dullcote one day
What do all think of these buildings for a Green Horde 3D board?: www.kickstarter.com/projects/rocketpiggames/tilescape-gothic-city-3d-printable-modular-buildin
Those look really cool!
Oooo
I am wondering if I should spend the money on the quick shade? What is your opinion on it?
One can, used properly will coat dozens (maybe even a hundred) miniatures. Once coated they are really well protected. You also usually don't need to do any highlighting after - the finished product looks good with low effort. The downside is that it's poisonous, smells horrible and you need mineral spirits (I used "odorless turpentine") to clean your brushes after. I also use gloves and a respirator. If you can't open a window while using it, the smell is pretty intense.
Some people use the "dip and shake" method to coat a pile of minis really quickly, and you don't need a brush to do this. If you wanted to say paint 100 skeletons in a day, you could prime them all in skeleton bone, then "dip and shake" the mini in the quickshade and then just spray them with matt varnish after 24 hours. They'd look a little sloppy, but 100 times better than just unpainted.
Thanks I think I will try, currently working on Green Horde. The fact that it protects them well is a big plus. Also btw your vids are great big help. Thank you!
I just did two models with strong tone quick shade. I cleaned excess off. It looks really dark, will it be lighter when dry?
chris patty It stays quite dark - but after you use a matt varnish on it the details become very clear. It always looks terrible until it's dried and you use the matt varnish. I usually go with bright colors for this reason - everything gets darkened down a shade or two.
Above average