I have replaced 3 converters in our 2017 180. I did similar to what you did, but did not remove fuses. This was discussed thoroughly with FR in October and at Goshen earlier in the summer. It is recommended that you brace the entire box from underneath to reduce rattles. I used 2 pieces of pool noodle and slipped them under from the backside. I also added stability to the framing around the converter to reduce rattles. It has helped tremendously - 43 day cross country trip completed with no issues. It has also been noticed that most failures were do to a weak solder joint. One man at a recent r-pod gathering fixed 3 while at the rally by resoldering the connection. FR was there and discussed this in depth and are working aa permanent fix.
Made it all the way to Niagara Falls from AZ and had my inverter go bad. Amazon sent one to the in-laws and I was back in business within 15 minutes. Thanks, John, for your great videos! You’re the best.
Update: Back in AZ and inspected the inverter. Circuit board had a bad solder on the bridge rectifier. It was cracked around the pin and when I tested for continuity using a multimeter it would not beep until I manipulated the “island” around the pin. I soldered all of the connections on the bridge rectifier and and heat sinks. I tested the unit by adding an ac plug and connecting it to a 15 amp ac outlet. Measured 13.5+ volts and back functioning better than from the factory. If you don’t know what you are doing with ac voltage please don’t copy what I did as you could be electrocuted. I’d bet almost all of these defective units are bad solders, bulged capacitors, or loose grounds. Thanks again John for your awesome videos!
Again you saved me and my R-Pod 182 from a disaster!! We were traveling cross country to my son's wedding when the symptoms appeared. With some research we were sent to your video (should have checked here first...) and we found the problem AND the solution. Amazon to the rescue and 2 days later problem solved. Thanks again for all your wonderful videos.
Thanks for the great video John-this was really helpful when my converter died. I chose to upgrade to the alternate converter recommended on the r-pod forums. I also changed to the new DC distribution/fuse PC board, which did take a while to complete. One word of warning to anyone completing the repair. The heavy gauge wires from the converter to the fuse PC Board had some of the strands become brittle and break off during the repair. Take caution to not let any of these pieces of copper wire fall onto your new converter and risk short circuit
Thank you! Returning from our trip to Alaska, our converter went. We used the triple charge to charge up the batteries when at shore power. When we got home, I sent away for a new converter inspired by your video. Just finished installing it. Your videos are very informative and helpful!!
My husband and I got stuck in the desert, 6 hours into a 30-hour trip in 105-degree heat. After our first night, a voltage flare killed our converter. We were able to diagnose the issue, but couldn't even begin to figure out how to fix it. This video saved our trip and kept us and our dog from suffering through four more days of 100+-degree weather. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Big shout out for the help seeing the job and then doing the work. The tip about taking the DC fuse panel out to get the White and Red wires hooked up was well worth the advice. A large flat screw driver under the circuit board and gently twisting circuit board up over the bottom bracket made the job so much easier. Impossible to do without this tip. Thanks.
Woohoo! I have successfully swapped out my R-Pod converter for the 8900-AD series, which means I can change from flooded to AGM or Lithium without any changes needed. Thanks for a clear and simple explanation!
John, I to have a 2016 Rpod 179. Just wanted to tell you thank you for the information on removing and replacing the converter. It worked perfectly! Thanks again Rod Rumohr Delton, Mi
THANKS JOHN! This video is great. You solved 12 months of head scratching and frustration with your description in the beginning of this video. After watching, I immediately went to your Amazon link and installed the new converter. My 2016 RPOD 179 is good to go now!
Miles, thanks for the comment! It's always good to hear that the video was a real help. Glad you got things working. Thanks again and thanks for watching!
Great tutorial video on replacing the converter. I am just getting ready to replace mine and I found your video. So helpful and clearly presented. Thank you so much.
Camping out west including some boondocking and our converter has failed. This video just confirmed what I thought was the problem. Luckily we have a battery charger and a small Honda generator with us so we can keep on motoring and deal with issue when we get home. Great informative video. Thanks
You posted this the very day my converter failed. 2016/180. Seeing this video, would have been a pretty simple fix. I now have a battery charger on board and will buy an extra converter for future failures, I plan to be out alot in 2019. Insurance is expensive till you need it. Thanks for a great tutorial.
Pamela, Glad the video was helpful. Sorry to hear that your converter failed, but glad to hear you are taking precautions going forward. All the best and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video/help! Ours went out last weekend on the 1st camping trip of the year. Ordered, will be here next week. I was hesitant to try to change myself until I watched your video- thanks again!
Thanks so much for posting this! Confirmed my suspicion and provided a perfect link to ordering a replacement. Swap out was easy. 12v works again with no battery and connected to shore power. RPod 180, out of warranty.
I appreciate this great video John. The power converter on my 2017 Rpod 176T went out last weekend, and I replaced it this morning after re-watching this video.
John, thanks for posting. However, i saw this AFTER i had already fixed mine. What I found was that the bottom portion of the housing had broken on one side, turning road vibrations into violent shaking. This had broken some of the soldering points for some major connection points on the backside of the circuit board. Even though I had purchased a replacement, I tried, and was successful at repairing the solder. The last step was to repair the cracked plastic frame, and then cut some pvc pipe to size and wedge in underneath to offer the bottom more support. All's well so far after about 1200 mi of travel with it. Including some very rough washboard sections on 101 in CA! I'd love to attach a photo of my support underneath, but couldn't figure out how, so hopefully the description gets the point across.
Thank you so much for this video. This is exactly what happened to my rpod 178. I used the link to buy a new converter and installed it today. I also am going to keep a battery charger on hand in the future in case it happens again.
Good video. Only one point. Order of wire replacement: 1. Ground (green) 2. Neutral (white) 3. Hot (black) The order is critical, printed circuit board and power supplies can carry static voltage. The neutral and ground is the absolute path for any stray current/voltage. The black should be connected last always. * The order of removal should be the same discipline.
Good video. I swapped my WFCO 8900 series converter for another WFCO 8900 MBA designed for Lithium batteries. This was to charge 2 Battleborn batteries. Due to location of the converter and working with stiff wires, you must bring your “A game” of patience.
Les, sounds like a nice setup for getting off the grid. Feel free to let us know how it works out as you get out and use it (battery life, etc.). All the best!
Hey John, good advice and instruction only thing we forgot wsa "take pictures" .. so we had to play the video twice.. being a widow, it was nice to work with my son again. He also showed me how to maually put up the electric Jack.. just in case.. I think the jack might have been the beginning culperate / thanks again. Rpod 180
You're good, John. One can only wish that policy, engineering, purchasing, line workers and quality control at R-Pod were as conscientious and customer oriented as you are. We just purchased a 2013 176 and I am beginning to dig into the anomalies as they present themselves. I arrived at this video seeking insight into the lack of 110V when disconnected from shore power. I would assume that an expensive and sophisticated unit like this would have an inverter that kicked in to supply 110V to the receptacles when shore power is absent, but I have yet to confirm that. No need for a personal reply, I am sure you have little enough time for the fun stuff as it is. Thanks for the time you spend putting this resource out for the unfortunates. ( I was not present at the purchase of this unit)
Tom, the R-Pods do not come stock with inverters. Some of the folks do install them with better batteries systems. You'll want to reach out on the R-Pod owners forum (not the Facebook groups) to see how some of the people there have done these upgrades. Here is the link: rpod-owners.com. Thanks!
John, great video about the converter replacement. I have an 3018 r-Pod 179 and it has a WFCO 8735P converter. I am changing to lithium so I needed to replace the charger and after I saw your video I thought this was going to be easy. It appears there is no lithium replacement to fit in the tiny space where the board for the 8735 sits. Looks like I will have to disconnect the wire and put in a different unit behind the current breaker panel. And FR was kind enough to solder the wires so I'll have to cut them out. Bigger project than I thought but thanks for the video to at least get me familiar with the make-up if there electrical system
@@JohnMarucci I'm putting two BattleBorn batteries under the bed near the front. I'll then route the heater away from that area. Basically moving the batteries inside. I already have the solar controller and invertor in the front cargo area.
J Ho, I am doing the same thing as you. My coach has the WF-8735P converter. I have installed 2 lithium batteries. I contacted WFCO and they said they have a WF-8735Lis model that has the lithium switch. What brand/model did you install? Any more advice as I tackle this project? Thanks, Stacy
@@stacyhazelwood4033 Stacy, I ran into so many issues. I have a 2018 179 and the lithium replacement converter does not fit where the stock one is. You have at least two options. 1. Pull the current converter and power panel out and replace the entire a/c, d/c unit. If you have the guts go ahead. 2. Leave the converter there and add a separate battery charger. There is the "Boondocker" brand or what I got was a PD model 9130L to charge the batteries. I still have to have the old converter for the DC lights while on A/C. That was the recommendation from PD. I'll be happy to send you pictures of my set up. I also have a 2k inverter. Thinking back it might have been better, more expensive, to get the victron all-in-one unit. Oh well. I'm not a full timer but my wife and I boondocked last night miles from anyone and the stars were beautiful. Your could feel the darkness. Let me know if I can help.
@@housesOTR I was just researching the option of adding a DC-DC Lithium battery charger with an on/off switch to charge with my tow vehicle or just a basic plug in charger. I usually charge my batteries with a solar suitcase anyways. But, I think I'm just going to leave my old converter alone (not change it out). Thank you for your advice/experience.
i bought a lightly used 2016 rpod 180 a year ago and traveled for 5 months using 100 w solar panel for all my electric needs. so when i parked it at home and connected it to shore power, i didnt give a thought about whether the converter was charging the baatteries for a couple of months. by then the fantom draw had depleted my 2 neew 6 volt lead acid batteries and theey werent getting refilled by the converter. i slapped the solar panels back on and now its time to replace the converter.. i have read lots of people comments but yours is (always) the best and easiest to follow. my question is, would you replace it with the original Arterra WF-8955-MBA 55 DC Amp Replacement Main Board Assembly or consider the highly touted PD 4655L MBA WildKat 55 Amp Main Board Assembly for WFCO 8955 or Parallax 7155 (Includes 4600 Remote) from best converter? (amazon also has a similar item Progressive Dynamics PD4655V Inteli-Power 4600 Series Converter/Charger with Charge Wizard - 55 Amp). i want an easy job but i also want something that will last. doesnt need to be fancy
I replaced mine with the WFCO 8955 mentioned in the video and never had another problem with it. The big caveat is that I also changed tires to Goodyear Endurance and ran them slightly below the 80 psi on the tire tread. The amount of vibration while in motion in the cabin diminished greatly, witnessed by much less sawdust and debris showing up after travel. My theory is that that since the converter is so close to the floor in the R-Pods, they absorbs too much shock given their placement within the cabin. The OEM tires usually have to run at max psi, thus the possible reason why so many fail. Thanks for the comment and all the best!
@@JohnMarucci you are amazing. thanks for the quick reply. yes, sawdust. i just glued and tacked 3 of the panels back in to place in the space under the bed. maybe the rpod isnt up to all those dirt roads where i like to boondock. for converter, i will try to shore up the new one. noodles, etc. havent really delved in to it so not sure how it looks. thanks for the info on the tires
Great video John, sorry that your converter died. This video is great. I'm keeping this in mind in the event that my converter dies. I'll know exactly what to do if I have to replace it.
Thank you John that was a Great video and you explain it in very detailed and layman's term. I've replaced several systems and they all worked perfectly by your guidance. Thanks again and God bless 🙏😇👍.
Thanks for the converter video. We were half way through the process. I noticed two possible causes for the converter never working since we bought this 2016 used rpod 180. First: the unit was installed high in the cutout, so only the side screws held it in place, and most of those screws split the vertical strips of wood behind the unit. Also, with no supporting cross piece under it, the plastic frame had broken. Thus, the converter has been bouncing about for years. We are going to secure it with a supporting strip of wood. Second, and here's my question: the white wire I removed on the breaker side had been connected in the slot second from the left, and in the first slot, in which your video shows it should be connected, I found a cut-off wire sticking out. I can't get that screw, in the first slot, loosened. If I connect the white wire of the new converter in the second slot, as someone previously did, will it work? Thank you.
I no longer have the R-Pod 179 and so I can't take a look at the converter to answer your question. I do know some people who might be able to help. I would point you to the R-Pod owners forum to ask: rpod-owners.com
@@JohnMarucci Hi John. I just replaced my converter. Sadly, it was not a successful solution, (I believe all signs did point to the converter being the issue) If you could, please point me in a new direction: Here's a quick summary BR, (Before replacement) - Lights very dim. Shore power did not: charge the batteries, brighten the lights, or allow any 110 devices to work. After replacement: Same situation/no changes. Also, my tow vehicle does charge the batteries. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you!
John when testing the old unit and or the new unit by plugging into shore power to see if the lights come on, can that shore power be a 15A House outlet using an adaptor? Thank you
All you rpod video have been awesome I have a question on the power converter video the one I bought for my 2016 rpod 179 is an 8900 AD 55amp it has an extra wire off of the black breaker wire I'm assuming it is a wire for newer models and is not used since it came with a wire nut on it
If I am understanding correctly, you bought an 8900 and not the WFCO Arterra WF-8955-MBA 55 exact replacement? If so, I am not familiar with the 8900 to be able to help. I would point you to the R-Pod owners forum: rpod-owners.com
Just a word of advice from an old electrician, terminate the load wires first, then the 120-volt , black wire to the breaker should be the first to disconnect, and last wire to terminate.
Great vid. If my fan isn’t running and battery not charging when plugged to shore, is that it? Replacement time? Or are there any other possible issues to check on first?
The converter should run the fan when charging the battery. Are you sure the battery isn’t already fully charged? If it isn’t already fully charged and the converter isn’t charging it, likely it is the converter.
John, I was getting ready to order a new converter for our R-pod, I used your link and noticed they also have an updated version. Should I go with the original one or the updated version? Thank you
Was it the exact model number WF-8955-MBA? This one is the 55 Amp model as an exact replacement. Feel free to paste the link to the product you are referring to and I can take a look. Thanks.
Hi John, We have a 2020 189 with solar charger and would like to swap out the flooded house batteries for lithium. Which power converter would be appropriate to swap out the original? Thanks.
You will need a different converter for lithium batteries. I do not have the model number but would point you to the R-Pod owners forum as many there have done what you are referring to: rpod-owners.com
The unit I reference cannot be used for lithium. There is a separate model that can be used. My replacement unit never failed with several years of use. Thanks!
Our Rpod 180 convertor just went out John. Your video looks safe, helpful and a lot easier that I anticipated. Now, the link you’ve got…is it an exact plug and play replacement. Our Rpod unit is a WFCO 8955. So I assume your Amazon’s Aterra is just another brand but works? Thanks for all you do John.
Hi John, great video on the converter replacement. I do have a question for you, though. You mentioned a loose solder connection and, after replacing my 8955 twice, I would like to know where the defective solder connection is located. Thanks in advance.
Robert, I sold my R-Pod 179 this past spring, so I don't have access to the converter. I am pretty sure someone on the owners forum could answer this question: rpod-owners.com
You need to take out the 5 Philips screws from the top of the board that hold it onto the riser. Once the brown cover and the metal riser are gone, use your cell phone camera to zoom in and scroll the board. Mine were on the bridge rectifier. I resoldered the 4 on the BR and the heat sinks. Good as new.
Great video but before you replace the converter, there is another you tube video in how to locate and repair a broken solder connection which seems to be a major cause of failure. Factory tech support no help and don't recommend repair (surprise). You remove unit but don't disconnect any wires. Remove board from plastic holder (5 little screws) Turn board over to bottom which is all solder connections. Broken one VERY obvious as blackened. Take soldering iron and drop several blobs of hot solder over blackened areas to be sure it reconnects with surrounding surfaces. Replace board to plastic and replace in cabinet. Add power and fan should start. Mine did and saved $215.00. Took about an hour with phone time etc. Good luck!
Sounds like a good idea for those so inclined to tackle this. I think with the position of the converter in the older R-Pods (basically on the floor), there is a lot of vibration the unit absorbs. I did change to GY Endurance tires which did not require max inflation and everything in the trailer did better in terms of vibration. My replacement converter never had an issue. Thanks!
John, when the controller failed, would you have been able to charge the rv battery if you were towing the trailer through the seven pin trailer harness? Where we will be travelling this summer most of the camp sites won't have power hookups.
Robert, the 7-Pin connector from your tow vehicle would change the battery while driving. Of course if you put the refrigerator to battery while driving, that will draw on the battery. Likely, you would want to keep the fridge on propane while between campsites and let the battery charge better from the tow vehicle. Solar or a generator would be the only other options if boon docking. All the best this season!
super helpful John thank you. do you have any tips for selecting the right converter replacement on an rpod -G thats battery has been upgraded to a lipo4? most of the ones Im seeing on Amazon are 55 amp output, does require any other mods to fit the existing (i.e. breaker)? appreciate all your content, keep up the great work and come back to the rpod family soon!
Pretty sure there is a replacement that will work but you’ll want to confirm with the folks who’ve done it themselves on the R-Pod owners forum: rpod-owners.com
Hi John, I have a 2018 Rpod 189 and I was wondering about getting the right converter. Our converter says it's Model WF-8735P. Can we use the converter that you suggest or does it need to be the exact same model? Thanks for your videos, they are very helpful for this 1st time owner. ☺
Hopefully the video and step by step process will help if you do the replacement. Keeping a good battery charger with you can also be helpful if the converter falls while on the road. Hope everything works out well. Thanks for watching.
Cheryl, there are a few choices that can be wired into the RV near the Fuse box/converter. I have not done this personally, but would point you to the Rpod-owner.com forum as there are a few people there who have added an inverter and can point you in the right direction. Thanks!
The link is to the replacement unit for my 2017 R-Pod 179. They may have used a different amp unit in the older R-Pods. I’d ask on the RPod forum: www.rpod-owners.com
I think having a good battery charger with you would do the trick and cover if your converter went out while traveling. It would keep you going until you can replace the faulty unit. Thanks for watching and for commenting!
Our converter failed this weekend on our 2019 rpod 180. We've only been camping twice. We got a battery charger. It saved our trip. In the process of pulling the converter out when I came across this video.
@@tedandtinasadventures.9225 Where did you get your converter from? We have a 2018 180 with a converter problem and I ordered the one that John used, but it didn't look like the one ordered. Thanks!
Hi John, David here "again" :) i cant find our last thread so writing here. I have a R-pod 191. i upgraded to dual batteries witch i i have connected in parallel. we generally only do dry camping. i wrote last because as i was driving from home to camp my batteries would be drained, you sent me a link and i purchased that mechman alternator. same thing is still happening. i put new batteries in about 1 year ago, not sure what i'm doing wrong. i had the camper plugged into the house 110 for most of the winter, is that a problem? i thought that would keep them topped off. its such a pain getting to a site and having to kick on my generator to operate the slide out and get the batteries charged up but then they are draining before the night is even over. in the summer we generally keep the bath fan on and a window open for circulation but cant do that for the whole night. last weekend i had to disconnect the co2 in the middle of the night because it started chirping for low power. i think i must be doing something wrong when my camper is in my driveway. maybe connecting to the house is bad? feel like i need to buy 2 new batteries again to get me through the rest of summer. thanks for your help!
Teresa, I don't think this could happen, but I am not an electrician and so I would recommend that you ask this question on the R-Pod Owners forum. Rpod-owners.com
I know if you are only plugged into a 15 or 20 amp outlet at your house it can flip the GFI outlet, especially if you had the A/C on. I would first check the GFI outlet in the trailer to ensure it doesn't need to be reset.
Thanks for the video. Question regarding the warranty. So, what response do you end up receiving from the manufacturer? Another new unit (which you no longer need since your amazon converter is now installed), or something else?
After installation of the replacement, I sent the defective unit back to WFCO along with the required paperwork. They turned it around very quickly and I received a new unit the same week. This means I do now carry an extra unit. Thanks for watching!
Eric, WFCO did send me a replacement unit but did not reimburse my purchase for a separate unit from Amazon. That was my choice to get a new one quicker and it does mean I now have a back up unit if this one fails. Thanks for the question, hope this helps.
John we enjoy the videos We have a Rpod 195 and we notice when the invertor is om it seems to run a lot ans the besside outlet when turned off remains on and green Can you share your feedback and does this sound like a short or warranty issue to you? Thanks
Leslie, the converter fan will run when plugged into 30 amp shore power when charging the battery. This is normal. The part of your question talking about the outlet and green light I am not clear on. Feel free to refresh the question with more detail. Thanks!
Paul, because I went with the counsel I received and put the 55 Amp exact replacement unit in, I didn’t pursue other options. Good question. I would point you to the R-Pod Owners Forum to see if others have done differently. www.rpod-owners.com
Great video. I will be replacing my converter/charger soon. It still works but it’s old and not efficient. It takes almost 8hrs of gen time to recharge 2 golf cart batteries from 50% back to full. I am going with a 60A converter from my parralax 55A. The extra 5A (60 watt difference) is acceptable for my existing wiring. I would not go higher than that though.
Another great video John, thanks! I was just thinking about this and was wondering if you knew how long the warranty is on our converter from Forest River?
Basically I was on the road and needed to get a replacement ordered quickly. A fellow R-Pod owner was able to send me the exact replacement unit link from Amazon. Great question. Thanks for watching!
Hi, I am new to this and assume shore power is plugged into power either thru 30 amp or dog bone and 15 amp breaker. My battery is connected and I am plugged in with a dog bone and with my volt meter I read 13.57 or so at my battery. I'm thinking converter is working. But if I unplug shore power and still battery connected it drains in less than 2 hours. Refrigerator is turned .....is this normal and am I thinking correctly on converter.
Steve, when you are plugging into shore power you should be able to hear the converter fan running when it is charging the battery. The fan almost always turns on at the converter when I first plug into shore power (either 30amp directly or like you said 15 or 20 amp at home using a dog bone connector). If you can know that the converter is working, then it sure sounds like a battery issue or something else tapping the battery pretty hard when unplugged. The fridge panel (and some fridges on 12v), thermostat panel, cabin lights, slide out, furnace fan, any USB ports, interior fans, stereo (& TV on some units) and outside lights are all on 12 volt and will drain the battery if being used. Some people forget the furnace fan which is a big draw. So even if you are boon-docking and run the furnace, the battery will get used up fairly quickly if the furnace fan is on a bunch. Thanks!
@@JohnMarucci thank you....today I came home and my RAM jack was all the way up. Crazy...we had a heavy rain last night . I put a small disconnect on it but left exposed. Can only guess the whole thing was wet and water is a conductor....
I just finished replacing the converter and panel in my 2015 Rp-178. Unfortunately I wasn't told that I could just replace the converter. I was given a link for the whole converter and distribution panel . Unknowingly I ordered it from Amazon , around $170 total with tax. When it came in the mail I realized this job wasn't going to be a 20 minute project like was shown in this video. I had to disassemble every fuse, circuit breaker, ground and common wire in the unit, take out all the fuses and circuit breakers and then put them back in the new unit. Not a job for the faint of heart. Anyway to make a long story shorter...I did it but it took a couple hours! I guess the moral of the story is...WATCH JOHNS VIDEOS first!!!!!!
Sal, sorry to hear about your experience. Thanks for sharing your story as it will be very helpful to others. Your situation is exactly why we are documenting our experiences. All the best and thanks for watching.
I'm hoping you can solve this problem. I have 100 watts of solar which is putting out 15 on my volt meter from the end of the plug but it is not charging my batteries. Is this still the power converter. When the generator is on, the lights on my panel completely light up.
I own a 2016 Wildwood RV trailer, I have no power in my trailer to anything, I don’t know if it’s my fuses or my power converter box, my box is a Model WF-8955PEC, help?
@@JohnMarucci so I’ve been living in it for the past two years, my father has had the battery disconnected for the past couple years, and it’s been getting power from the property I live.
@@JohnMarucci okay, I’ll start by reconnecting my 12v battery to it first and go from there. Thank you for your help I greatly appreciate it. Hopefully that fixes my problem and I get power back to everything in my trailer
@@JohnMarucci so I just checked my EMS-HW30C on my trailer, I tested with a 120V tester it has power going to it, but no power coming out, could my EMS-HW30C have gone out?
I’m in Canada and can get PowerMax PM4 75A MBA 110V AC to 12V DC 75 Amp Power Converter with Built-in 4 Stage Smart Battery from Amazon! Will this work? Mine is toast! Thanks.
I am not familiar with this specific power converter. You may want to ask on the RPod owners forum as there are a few people there who have changed converter models: rpod-owners.com
I received the power converter today & it was in US Mail Priority Mail box wrapped in Bubble Wrap. No box or Instructions from Arterra. No Identification that it is even a Arterra Product or Model # stating that it is in fact an Arterra # WF-8955 MBA 55DC Amp replacement part. No Identification at all.
Joe, the link that I provided on my storefront is sold and shipped directly from Amazon (amzn.to/35swZVm). I suppose if you are not happy with what was shipped you should contact Oceanside RV for a refund or replacement. Thanks!
I have replaced 3 converters in our 2017 180. I did similar to what you did, but did not remove fuses. This was discussed thoroughly with FR in October and at Goshen earlier in the summer. It is recommended that you brace the entire box from underneath to reduce rattles. I used 2 pieces of pool noodle and slipped them under from the backside. I also added stability to the framing around the converter to reduce rattles. It has helped tremendously - 43 day cross country trip completed with no issues. It has also been noticed that most failures were do to a weak solder joint. One man at a recent r-pod gathering fixed 3 while at the rally by resoldering the connection. FR was there and discussed this in depth and are working aa permanent fix.
George, thanks for the great information and thanks for watching!
I just replaced my converter and everything is back up and running! I couldn’t have done it without this video! Thank you!!
Great to hear. Glad the video was helpful!
Made it all the way to Niagara Falls from AZ and had my inverter go bad. Amazon sent one to the in-laws and I was back in business within 15 minutes. Thanks, John, for your great videos! You’re the best.
Great to hear that the video was helpful!
Update: Back in AZ and inspected the inverter. Circuit board had a bad solder on the bridge rectifier. It was cracked around the pin and when I tested for continuity using a multimeter it would not beep until I manipulated the “island” around the pin. I soldered all of the connections on the bridge rectifier and and heat sinks. I tested the unit by adding an ac plug and connecting it to a 15 amp ac outlet. Measured 13.5+ volts and back functioning better than from the factory. If you don’t know what you are doing with ac voltage please don’t copy what I did as you could be electrocuted. I’d bet almost all of these defective units are bad solders, bulged capacitors, or loose grounds. Thanks again John for your awesome videos!
Again you saved me and my R-Pod 182 from a disaster!! We were traveling cross country to my son's wedding when the symptoms appeared. With some research we were sent to your video (should have checked here first...) and we found the problem AND the solution. Amazon to the rescue and 2 days later problem solved. Thanks again for all your wonderful videos.
Michael, sorry you had the issue but glad the video helped solve the problem. All the best!
Thanks for the great video John-this was really helpful when my converter died.
I chose to upgrade to the alternate converter recommended on the r-pod forums. I also changed to the new DC distribution/fuse PC board, which did take a while to complete.
One word of warning to anyone completing the repair. The heavy gauge wires from the converter to the fuse PC Board had some of the strands become brittle and break off during the repair. Take caution to not let any of these pieces of copper wire fall onto your new converter and risk short circuit
Ted, thanks for the comment and heads up on the potential of the frayed wire falling into the unit. Glad the video was helpful!
Thank you! Returning from our trip to Alaska, our converter went. We used the triple charge to charge up the batteries when at shore power. When we got home, I sent away for a new converter inspired by your video. Just finished installing it. Your videos are very informative and helpful!!
Great to hear that the video was helpful. Thanks for the comment!
Just finished changing the converter in my 2017 rpod 180. Your video made things very easy, 15 min job!! Thank you!!
Great to hear!
My husband and I got stuck in the desert, 6 hours into a 30-hour trip in 105-degree heat. After our first night, a voltage flare killed our converter. We were able to diagnose the issue, but couldn't even begin to figure out how to fix it. This video saved our trip and kept us and our dog from suffering through four more days of 100+-degree weather. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Great to hear that the video was helpful. Thanks for sharing! All the best!
Big shout out for the help seeing the job and then doing the work. The tip about taking the DC fuse panel out to get the White and Red wires hooked up was well worth the advice. A large flat screw driver under the circuit board and gently twisting circuit board up over the bottom bracket made the job so much easier. Impossible to do without this tip. Thanks.
Glad the video was helpful!
Woohoo! I have successfully swapped out my R-Pod converter for the 8900-AD series, which means I can change from flooded to AGM or Lithium without any changes needed. Thanks for a clear and simple explanation!
Good to hear. Congrats!
Within the first few seconds of the video, John informed me the power converter is fried. Thanks, John; much appreciated!
Percy, glad the video was helpful!
John, I to have a 2016 Rpod 179.
Just wanted to tell you thank you for the information on removing and replacing the converter. It worked perfectly!
Thanks again
Rod Rumohr
Delton, Mi
Great to hear, thanks!
THANKS JOHN! This video is great. You solved 12 months of head scratching and frustration with your description in the beginning of this video. After watching, I immediately went to your Amazon link and installed the new converter. My 2016 RPOD 179 is good to go now!
Miles, thanks for the comment! It's always good to hear that the video was a real help. Glad you got things working. Thanks again and thanks for watching!
Great tutorial video on replacing the converter. I am just getting ready to replace mine and I found your video. So helpful and clearly presented. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
An old video. But once again, John, you've helped me out. Your videos are exact and to the point with some important advice along the way!
Great to hear! Thanks!
Camping out west including some boondocking and our converter has failed. This video just confirmed what I thought was the problem. Luckily we have a battery charger and a small Honda generator with us so we can keep on motoring and deal with issue when we get home. Great informative video. Thanks
Glad to hear you have a battery charger. It saved a trip for me. All the best!
You posted this the very day my converter failed. 2016/180. Seeing this video, would have been a pretty simple fix. I now have a battery charger on board and will buy an extra converter for future failures, I plan to be out alot in 2019. Insurance is expensive till you need it. Thanks for a great tutorial.
Pamela, Glad the video was helpful. Sorry to hear that your converter failed, but glad to hear you are taking precautions going forward. All the best and thanks for watching!
I replaced my converter today. Thanks for the great tutorial. And all I used was a Philips and a flathead screwdriver.
Great to hear. Glad the video was helpful!
Thanks. This gave me the confidence to go ahead and change mine. No surprises and fixed my power problems.
Great to hear! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video/help! Ours went out last weekend on the 1st camping trip of the year. Ordered, will be here next week. I was hesitant to try to change myself until I watched your video- thanks again!
Great to hear, all the best!
Thanks so much for posting this! Confirmed my suspicion and provided a perfect link to ordering a replacement. Swap out was easy. 12v works again with no battery and connected to shore power. RPod 180, out of warranty.
Glad the video was helpful!
I appreciate this great video John. The power converter on my 2017 Rpod 176T went out last weekend, and I replaced it this morning after re-watching this video.
Joseph, I am glad the video was helpful!
Thank you for your fantastic how to videos John - just replaced my converter following your directions and it worked like a charm.
Great to hear that the video was helpful!
Thanks!
Many thanks!
John, thanks for posting. However, i saw this AFTER i had already fixed mine. What I found was that the bottom portion of the housing had broken on one side, turning road vibrations into violent shaking. This had broken some of the soldering points for some major connection points on the backside of the circuit board. Even though I had purchased a replacement, I tried, and was successful at repairing the solder. The last step was to repair the cracked plastic frame, and then cut some pvc pipe to size and wedge in underneath to offer the bottom more support. All's well so far after about 1200 mi of travel with it. Including some very rough washboard sections on 101 in CA! I'd love to attach a photo of my support underneath, but couldn't figure out how, so hopefully the description gets the point across.
Thanks for the thorough comment describing your solution. Makes sense!
Thank you so much for this video. This is exactly what happened to my rpod 178. I used the link to buy a new converter and installed it today. I also am going to keep a battery charger on hand in the future in case it happens again.
Great to hear the the video was helpful. All the best!
Thank you, John. I this worked perfectly for my rPod 178. Your videos are tremendously appreciated.
Great to hear!
Good video. Only one point. Order of wire replacement:
1. Ground (green)
2. Neutral (white)
3. Hot (black)
The order is critical, printed circuit board and power supplies can carry static voltage. The neutral and ground is the absolute path for any stray current/voltage.
The black should be connected last always.
* The order of removal should be the same discipline.
Thanks Jason!
Good video. I swapped my WFCO 8900 series converter for another WFCO 8900 MBA designed for Lithium batteries. This was to charge 2 Battleborn batteries. Due to location of the converter and working with stiff wires, you must bring your “A game” of patience.
Les, sounds like a nice setup for getting off the grid. Feel free to let us know how it works out as you get out and use it (battery life, etc.). All the best!
Wow what a fiasco John! Really great and informative video man. Keep up the great work.
Finally a high quality excellent advice on RPods SO useful!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey John, good advice and instruction only thing we forgot wsa "take pictures" .. so we had to play the video twice.. being a widow, it was nice to work with my son again. He also showed me how to maually put up the electric Jack.. just in case.. I think the jack might have been the beginning culperate / thanks again. Rpod 180
Chris Fesko Thanks for the comment. It is very encouraging to hear that the video is helpful!
You're good, John. One can only wish that policy, engineering, purchasing, line workers and quality control at R-Pod were as conscientious and customer oriented as you are. We just purchased a 2013 176 and I am beginning to dig into the anomalies as they present themselves. I arrived at this video seeking insight into the lack of 110V when disconnected from shore power. I would assume that an expensive and sophisticated unit like this would have an inverter that kicked in to supply 110V to the receptacles when shore power is absent, but I have yet to confirm that. No need for a personal reply, I am sure you have little enough time for the fun stuff as it is. Thanks for the time you spend putting this resource out for the unfortunates. ( I was not present at the purchase of this unit)
Tom, the R-Pods do not come stock with inverters. Some of the folks do install them with better batteries systems. You'll want to reach out on the R-Pod owners forum (not the Facebook groups) to see how some of the people there have done these upgrades. Here is the link: rpod-owners.com. Thanks!
John, great video about the converter replacement. I have an 3018 r-Pod 179 and it has a WFCO 8735P converter. I am changing to lithium so I needed to replace the charger and after I saw your video I thought this was going to be easy. It appears there is no lithium replacement to fit in the tiny space where the board for the 8735 sits. Looks like I will have to disconnect the wire and put in a different unit behind the current breaker panel. And FR was kind enough to solder the wires so I'll have to cut them out. Bigger project than I thought but thanks for the video to at least get me familiar with the make-up if there electrical system
Yeah there’s not much room back there. You have to put the battery in that space?
@@JohnMarucci
I'm putting two BattleBorn batteries under the bed near the front. I'll then route the heater away from that area. Basically moving the batteries inside. I already have the solar controller and invertor in the front cargo area.
J Ho, I am doing the same thing as you. My coach has the WF-8735P converter. I have installed 2 lithium batteries. I contacted WFCO and they said they have a WF-8735Lis model that has the lithium switch. What brand/model did you install? Any more advice as I tackle this project? Thanks, Stacy
@@stacyhazelwood4033 Stacy, I ran into so many issues. I have a 2018 179 and the lithium replacement converter does not fit where the stock one is. You have at least two options. 1. Pull the current converter and power panel out and replace the entire a/c, d/c unit. If you have the guts go ahead. 2. Leave the converter there and add a separate battery charger. There is the "Boondocker" brand or what I got was a PD model 9130L to charge the batteries. I still have to have the old converter for the DC lights while on A/C. That was the recommendation from PD. I'll be happy to send you pictures of my set up. I also have a 2k inverter. Thinking back it might have been better, more expensive, to get the victron all-in-one unit. Oh well. I'm not a full timer but my wife and I boondocked last night miles from anyone and the stars were beautiful. Your could feel the darkness. Let me know if I can help.
@@housesOTR I was just researching the option of adding a DC-DC Lithium battery charger with an on/off switch to charge with my tow vehicle or just a basic plug in charger. I usually charge my batteries with a solar suitcase anyways. But, I think I'm just going to leave my old converter alone (not change it out). Thank you for your advice/experience.
awesome video. Super clear even for a newbie. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video. I always find your videos very helpful. Thank-you
Thanks! Glad you found the video helpful!
Very useful and informative video!
Glad it was helpful!
i bought a lightly used 2016 rpod 180 a year ago and traveled for 5 months using 100 w solar panel for all my electric needs. so when i parked it at home and connected it to shore power, i didnt give a thought about whether the converter was charging the baatteries for a couple of months. by then the fantom draw had depleted my 2 neew 6 volt lead acid batteries and theey werent getting refilled by the converter. i slapped the solar panels back on and now its time to replace the converter.. i have read lots of people comments but yours is (always) the best and easiest to follow. my question is, would you replace it with the original Arterra WF-8955-MBA 55 DC Amp Replacement Main Board Assembly or consider the highly touted PD 4655L MBA WildKat 55 Amp Main Board Assembly for WFCO 8955 or Parallax 7155 (Includes 4600 Remote) from best converter? (amazon also has a similar item Progressive Dynamics PD4655V Inteli-Power 4600 Series Converter/Charger with Charge Wizard - 55 Amp). i want an easy job but i also want something that will last. doesnt need to be fancy
I replaced mine with the WFCO 8955 mentioned in the video and never had another problem with it. The big caveat is that I also changed tires to Goodyear Endurance and ran them slightly below the 80 psi on the tire tread. The amount of vibration while in motion in the cabin diminished greatly, witnessed by much less sawdust and debris showing up after travel. My theory is that that since the converter is so close to the floor in the R-Pods, they absorbs too much shock given their placement within the cabin. The OEM tires usually have to run at max psi, thus the possible reason why so many fail. Thanks for the comment and all the best!
@@JohnMarucci you are amazing. thanks for the quick reply. yes, sawdust. i just glued and tacked 3 of the panels back in to place in the space under the bed. maybe the rpod isnt up to all those dirt roads where i like to boondock. for converter, i will try to shore up the new one. noodles, etc. havent really delved in to it so not sure how it looks. thanks for the info on the tires
Great video John, sorry that your converter died. This video is great. I'm keeping this in mind in the event that my converter dies. I'll know exactly what to do if I have to replace it.
Robert, thanks for the comment, glad the video is helpful. Thanks for watching!
Thank you John that was a Great video and you explain it in very detailed and layman's term. I've replaced several systems and they all worked perfectly by your guidance. Thanks again and God bless 🙏😇👍.
Glad it helped!
Great information! You did a great job explaining how to replace the converter!
Thanks Chris, appreciate the feedback!
Thanks for the converter video. We were half way through the process. I noticed two possible causes for the converter never working since we bought this 2016 used rpod 180. First: the unit was installed high in the cutout, so only the side screws held it in place, and most of those screws split the vertical strips of wood behind the unit. Also, with no supporting cross piece under it, the plastic frame had broken. Thus, the converter has been bouncing about for years. We are going to secure it with a supporting strip of wood.
Second, and here's my question: the white wire I removed on the breaker side had been connected in the slot second from the left, and in the first slot, in which your video shows it should be connected, I found a cut-off wire sticking out. I can't get that screw, in the first slot, loosened. If I connect the white wire of the new converter in the second slot, as someone previously did, will it work? Thank you.
I no longer have the R-Pod 179 and so I can't take a look at the converter to answer your question. I do know some people who might be able to help. I would point you to the R-Pod owners forum to ask: rpod-owners.com
Thank you. About to replace the converter in my 2016 179.
TheRedDawn Glad to be of help!
@@JohnMarucci Hi John. I just replaced my converter. Sadly, it was not a successful solution, (I believe all signs did point to the converter being the issue) If you could, please point me in a new direction: Here's a quick summary BR, (Before replacement) - Lights very dim. Shore power did not: charge the batteries, brighten the lights, or allow any 110 devices to work. After replacement: Same situation/no changes. Also, my tow vehicle does charge the batteries. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you!
Great video lots of help
Glad to hear it!
John when testing the old unit and or the new unit by plugging into shore power to see if the lights come on, can that shore power be a 15A House outlet using an adaptor? Thank you
That should work. When plugged in, you should hear the fan run on the converter as it charges the trailer battery. All the best!
@@JohnMarucci thanks John!! Your videos are lifesavers!!
All you rpod video have been awesome I have a question on the power converter video the one I bought for my 2016 rpod 179 is an 8900 AD 55amp it has an extra wire off of the black breaker wire I'm assuming it is a wire for newer models and is not used since it came with a wire nut on it
If I am understanding correctly, you bought an 8900 and not the WFCO Arterra WF-8955-MBA 55 exact replacement? If so, I am not familiar with the 8900 to be able to help. I would point you to the R-Pod owners forum: rpod-owners.com
Excellent Video ! Thank you for this video ! It really helped me !
Glad the video was helpful!
Just a word of advice from an old electrician, terminate the load wires first, then the 120-volt , black wire to the breaker should be the first to disconnect, and last wire to terminate.
Larry, thanks for the comment and advice!
Great vid. If my fan isn’t running and battery not charging when plugged to shore, is that it? Replacement time? Or are there any other possible issues to check on first?
The converter should run the fan when charging the battery. Are you sure the battery isn’t already fully charged? If it isn’t already fully charged and the converter isn’t charging it, likely it is the converter.
John, I was getting ready to order a new converter for our R-pod, I used your link and noticed they also have an updated version. Should I go with the original one or the updated version? Thank you
Was it the exact model number WF-8955-MBA? This one is the 55 Amp model as an exact replacement. Feel free to paste the link to the product you are referring to and I can take a look. Thanks.
I just had this problem I had a battery charger but I was wondering if this conv can handle 2 batteries I have an r pod as well
I think it would be able to. You can always ask on the R-Pod owners forum to see if someone is doing something similar: rpod-owners.com
Hi John, We have a 2020 189 with solar charger and would like to swap out the flooded house batteries for lithium. Which power converter would be appropriate to swap out the original? Thanks.
You will need a different converter for lithium batteries. I do not have the model number but would point you to the R-Pod owners forum as many there have done what you are referring to: rpod-owners.com
John a couple of questions, can the arterra charge a lithium battery with the right profile? how well did the charger work?
The unit I reference cannot be used for lithium. There is a separate model that can be used. My replacement unit never failed with several years of use. Thanks!
Our Rpod 180 convertor just went out John. Your video looks safe, helpful and a lot easier that I anticipated. Now, the link you’ve got…is it an exact plug and play replacement. Our Rpod unit is a WFCO 8955. So I assume your Amazon’s Aterra is just another brand but works? Thanks for all you do John.
Right, the Arterra board should be the replacement unit for the 8955.
@@JohnMarucci You were a tremendous help John...things went smoothly with success...thank you
Thanks John, good info!
Hi John, great video on the converter replacement. I do have a question for you, though. You mentioned a loose solder connection and, after replacing my 8955 twice, I would like to know where the defective solder connection is located. Thanks in advance.
Robert, I sold my R-Pod 179 this past spring, so I don't have access to the converter. I am pretty sure someone on the owners forum could answer this question: rpod-owners.com
You need to take out the 5 Philips screws from the top of the board that hold it onto the riser. Once the brown cover and the metal riser are gone, use your cell phone camera to zoom in and scroll the board. Mine were on the bridge rectifier. I resoldered the 4 on the BR and the heat sinks. Good as new.
Great video but before you replace the converter, there is another you tube video in how to locate and repair a broken solder connection which seems to be a major cause of failure. Factory tech support no help and don't recommend repair (surprise). You remove unit but don't disconnect any wires. Remove board from plastic holder (5 little screws) Turn board over to bottom which is all solder connections. Broken one VERY obvious as blackened. Take soldering iron and drop several blobs of hot solder over blackened areas to be sure it reconnects with surrounding surfaces. Replace board to plastic and replace in cabinet. Add power and fan should start. Mine did and saved $215.00. Took about an hour with phone time etc. Good luck!
Sounds like a good idea for those so inclined to tackle this. I think with the position of the converter in the older R-Pods (basically on the floor), there is a lot of vibration the unit absorbs. I did change to GY Endurance tires which did not require max inflation and everything in the trailer did better in terms of vibration. My replacement converter never had an issue. Thanks!
John, when the controller failed, would you have been able to charge the rv battery if you were towing the trailer through the seven pin trailer harness? Where we will be travelling this summer most of the camp sites won't have power hookups.
Robert, the 7-Pin connector from your tow vehicle would change the battery while driving. Of course if you put the refrigerator to battery while driving, that will draw on the battery. Likely, you would want to keep the fridge on propane while between campsites and let the battery charge better from the tow vehicle. Solar or a generator would be the only other options if boon docking. All the best this season!
super helpful John thank you. do you have any tips for selecting the right converter replacement on an rpod -G thats battery has been upgraded to a lipo4? most of the ones Im seeing on Amazon are 55 amp output, does require any other mods to fit the existing (i.e. breaker)? appreciate all your content, keep up the great work and come back to the rpod family soon!
Pretty sure there is a replacement that will work but you’ll want to confirm with the folks who’ve done it themselves on the R-Pod owners forum: rpod-owners.com
@JohnMarucci you're right. Turns out my model would need the entire power panel (WFCO 8735AD) vs changing out the converter stand alone. Thx
Hi John, I have a 2018 Rpod 189 and I was wondering about getting the right converter. Our converter says it's Model WF-8735P. Can we use the converter that you suggest or does it need to be the exact same model? Thanks for your videos, they are very helpful for this 1st time owner. ☺
Is that the model number on the outer distribution panel on from the actual internal converter?
Thanks for the video I'm having the same issue
Hopefully the video and step by step process will help if you do the replacement. Keeping a good battery charger with you can also be helpful if the converter falls while on the road. Hope everything works out well. Thanks for watching.
I would like to install an inverter so that we can use 120 v when not hooked up to electricity. What are your recommendations?
Cheryl, there are a few choices that can be wired into the RV near the Fuse box/converter. I have not done this personally, but would point you to the Rpod-owner.com forum as there are a few people there who have added an inverter and can point you in the right direction. Thanks!
John the 8900 is 35 amp and the link is to a 55 amp converter and is the 3 stage. Is it ok to up the amps in changing out the converter 2015 Rpod 179
The link is to the replacement unit for my 2017 R-Pod 179. They may have used a different amp unit in the older R-Pods. I’d ask on the RPod forum: www.rpod-owners.com
Hey, John
Great video. Is it the 45 amp or the 55 amp convertor?
Thanks, Lee
55 amp. The exact model link should be in the video description. Thanks!
John.....I have an RPOD 180 1918 do you feel the need to keep an extra converter on hand while traveling?
I think having a good battery charger with you would do the trick and cover if your converter went out while traveling. It would keep you going until you can replace the faulty unit. Thanks for watching and for commenting!
Our converter failed this weekend on our 2019 rpod 180. We've only been camping twice. We got a battery charger. It saved our trip. In the process of pulling the converter out when I came across this video.
@@tedandtinasadventures.9225 Where did you get your converter from? We have a 2018 180 with a converter problem and I ordered the one that John used, but it didn't look like the one ordered. Thanks!
@@donnaflanders3210 a dealer replaced it for us. Not sure what brand.
Hi John, David here "again" :) i cant find our last thread so writing here. I have a R-pod 191. i upgraded to dual batteries witch i i have connected in parallel. we generally only do dry camping. i wrote last because as i was driving from home to camp my batteries would be drained, you sent me a link and i purchased that mechman alternator. same thing is still happening. i put new batteries in about 1 year ago, not sure what i'm doing wrong. i had the camper plugged into the house 110 for most of the winter, is that a problem? i thought that would keep them topped off. its such a pain getting to a site and having to kick on my generator to operate the slide out and get the batteries charged up but then they are draining before the night is even over. in the summer we generally keep the bath fan on and a window open for circulation but cant do that for the whole night. last weekend i had to disconnect the co2 in the middle of the night because it started chirping for low power. i think i must be doing something wrong when my camper is in my driveway. maybe connecting to the house is bad? feel like i need to buy 2 new batteries again to get me through the rest of summer. thanks for your help!
Hey John, wanted to see if you have any advice on this? thx
hay john can apower converter mess up batteries to where the battery is no good
Teresa, I don't think this could happen, but I am not an electrician and so I would recommend that you ask this question on the R-Pod Owners forum. Rpod-owners.com
Great video, thank you!
You have a link for the manufacture warranty forms?
When I plugged in after following your instructions exactly (except for taking out the fuses), I heard a pop and no power. Any idea why?
Could be a number of things. Were you plugged into 30 amp shore power at a campground?
@@JohnMarucci no 30 amp shore power at our home.
I know if you are only plugged into a 15 or 20 amp outlet at your house it can flip the GFI outlet, especially if you had the A/C on. I would first check the GFI outlet in the trailer to ensure it doesn't need to be reset.
Thanks for the video. Question regarding the warranty. So, what response do you end up receiving from the manufacturer? Another new unit (which you no longer need since your amazon converter is now installed), or something else?
After installation of the replacement, I sent the defective unit back to WFCO along with the required paperwork. They turned it around very quickly and I received a new unit the same week. This means I do now carry an extra unit. Thanks for watching!
So did you get reimbursed by WFCO after you sent in the faulty converter since you bought the replacement on Amazon?
Eric, WFCO did send me a replacement unit but did not reimburse my purchase for a separate unit from Amazon. That was my choice to get a new one quicker and it does mean I now have a back up unit if this one fails. Thanks for the question, hope this helps.
John we enjoy the videos
We have a Rpod 195 and we notice when the invertor is om it seems to run a lot ans the besside outlet when turned off remains on and green
Can you share your feedback and does this sound like a short or warranty issue to you?
Thanks
Leslie, the converter fan will run when plugged into 30 amp shore power when charging the battery. This is normal. The part of your question talking about the outlet and green light I am not clear on. Feel free to refresh the question with more detail. Thanks!
Another great video. Thanks John! Question: Is the 55 amp version of the converter the best replacement? Or can you upgrade to a higher amp model?
Paul, because I went with the counsel I received and put the 55 Amp exact replacement unit in, I didn’t pursue other options. Good question. I would point you to the R-Pod Owners Forum to see if others have done differently. www.rpod-owners.com
Paul C, A higher amp model would for sure be better than the 55 amp version. Generally, you want to go as high as you can. Stay safe - George.
Great video. I will be replacing my converter/charger soon. It still works but it’s old and not efficient. It takes almost 8hrs of gen time to recharge 2 golf cart batteries from 50% back to full. I am going with a 60A converter from my parralax 55A. The extra 5A (60 watt difference) is acceptable for my existing wiring. I would not go higher than that though.
Are the converters the same for all rPod models? I have 2017 178.
Jackie, the converters should be the same for all 2017 model R-Pods. Thanks for watching!
John Marucci Thank you! I appreciate your videos, very helpful.
@@baanjones5910 Glad this was helpful!
Another great video John, thanks! I was just thinking about this and was wondering if you knew how long the warranty is on our converter from Forest River?
The converter has a two-year warranty from the date of original purchase to the original owner. Thanks again for watching!
Out of curiosity.....is there a reason you went with the same one opposed to a different and/or upgraded model/brand?
Basically I was on the road and needed to get a replacement ordered quickly. A fellow R-Pod owner was able to send me the exact replacement unit link from Amazon. Great question. Thanks for watching!
John Marucci love the videos, keep them up!
Hi, I am new to this and assume shore power is plugged into power either thru 30 amp or dog bone and 15 amp breaker. My battery is connected and I am plugged in with a dog bone and with my volt meter I read 13.57 or so at my battery. I'm thinking converter is working. But if I unplug shore power and still battery connected it drains in less than 2 hours. Refrigerator is turned .....is this normal and am I thinking correctly on converter.
Steve, when you are plugging into shore power you should be able to hear the converter fan running when it is charging the battery. The fan almost always turns on at the converter when I first plug into shore power (either 30amp directly or like you said 15 or 20 amp at home using a dog bone connector). If you can know that the converter is working, then it sure sounds like a battery issue or something else tapping the battery pretty hard when unplugged. The fridge panel (and some fridges on 12v), thermostat panel, cabin lights, slide out, furnace fan, any USB ports, interior fans, stereo (& TV on some units) and outside lights are all on 12 volt and will drain the battery if being used. Some people forget the furnace fan which is a big draw. So even if you are boon-docking and run the furnace, the battery will get used up fairly quickly if the furnace fan is on a bunch. Thanks!
@@JohnMarucci thank you....today I came home and my RAM jack was all the way up. Crazy...we had a heavy rain last night . I put a small disconnect on it but left exposed. Can only guess the whole thing was wet and water is a conductor....
I just finished replacing the converter and panel in my 2015 Rp-178. Unfortunately I wasn't told that I could just replace the converter. I was given a link for the whole converter and distribution panel . Unknowingly I ordered it from Amazon , around $170 total with tax. When it came in the mail I realized this job wasn't going to be a 20 minute project like was shown in this video. I had to disassemble every fuse, circuit breaker, ground and common wire in the unit, take out all the fuses and circuit breakers and then put them back in the new unit. Not a job for the faint of heart. Anyway to make a long story shorter...I did it but it took a couple hours! I guess the moral of the story is...WATCH JOHNS VIDEOS first!!!!!!
Sal, sorry to hear about your experience. Thanks for sharing your story as it will be very helpful to others. Your situation is exactly why we are documenting our experiences. All the best and thanks for watching.
@@JohnMarucci the way I look at it is heck...I know a lot more now and it's good to learn!
I'm hoping you can solve this problem. I have 100 watts of solar which is putting out 15 on my volt meter from the end of the plug but it is not charging my batteries. Is this still the power converter. When the generator is on, the lights on my panel completely light up.
Sorry, I don't have solar and can't help directly. You may want to post this issue on the R-Pod Owners forum: rpod-owners.com. All the best!
I own a 2016 Wildwood RV trailer, I have no power in my trailer to anything, I don’t know if it’s my fuses or my power converter box, my box is a Model WF-8955PEC, help?
Have you checked that your battery is fully charged and connected properly and that no battery kill switch is engaged?
@@JohnMarucci so I’ve been living in it for the past two years, my father has had the battery disconnected for the past couple years, and it’s been getting power from the property I live.
@@dustingamon3614 Yep, you have to make sure you have a good 12v battery hooked up.
@@JohnMarucci okay, I’ll start by reconnecting my 12v battery to it first and go from there. Thank you for your help I greatly appreciate it. Hopefully that fixes my problem and I get power back to everything in my trailer
@@JohnMarucci so I just checked my EMS-HW30C on my trailer, I tested with a 120V tester it has power going to it, but no power coming out, could my EMS-HW30C have gone out?
One more thing, this converter is not sold from/by amazon anymore, only seller is oceanside rv
I still have an Amazon link in my store that works fine for this item: amzn.to/41mBjlc
I’m in Canada and can get PowerMax PM4 75A MBA 110V AC to 12V DC 75 Amp Power Converter with Built-in 4 Stage Smart Battery from Amazon! Will this work? Mine is toast! Thanks.
I am not familiar with this specific power converter. You may want to ask on the RPod owners forum as there are a few people there who have changed converter models: rpod-owners.com
I received the power converter today & it was in US Mail Priority Mail box wrapped in Bubble Wrap. No box or Instructions from Arterra. No Identification that it is even a Arterra Product or Model # stating that it is in fact an Arterra # WF-8955 MBA 55DC Amp replacement part. No Identification at all.
Joe, did you get it from WFCO via warranty replacement or from Amazon or elsewhere?
@@JohnMarucci I got it from Amazon. The seller was Oceanside RV Supply.
Joe, the link that I provided on my storefront is sold and shipped directly from Amazon (amzn.to/35swZVm). I suppose if you are not happy with what was shipped you should contact Oceanside RV for a refund or replacement. Thanks!