Just wanted to say that I applaud this unselfish altruistic effort that has helped me immensely. In the true spirit of UA-cam, while most are now just making infomercials disguised as content.
Dan, I've watched these videos over and over, and probably will for the rest of my career. Each time I do I pick up something new. I started watching them years ago and they influence how I think about design work almost constantly. Thank you. I hope you are well.
Mr Gilbert - you are a very interesting man. I've only just found your channel but i've already watched 11 or so of your vids. Great stuff and so clear - brill. thank you.
Something I have learn from the teaching style, demonstrate everything that you can!. I could read tempering procedures all day, in 2 minutes I've learned more and in a way that I wont forget.
This must be some of the best content I have ever come across. One material I have recently discovered is nodular cast iron, known by trade names like Dura-Bar. Great machinability, dampening and lubricating properties.
Dan, I'm amazed your channel doesn't get more attention from the technical community on UA-cam. My only explanation can be that the audio is really bad and the camera work is not great either. But, I'm a fan for years of watching technical video's of e.g. Tom Lipton, Rob Renzetti, Stefan Gotteswinder etc. But your content is in the same league and a lot of the time, for me personal, even better. This has to do with my own broad field of experience as a designer and a maker of complex mechanical and electronical stuff. But to cut things short; chapeau! I watched 8 parts of your 18 chapters of explanations on prototyping and I've written two pages full of hints and things to research myself already. Powder coating? I already own a big oven and will order a system tomorrow. Lessons on good preparations for paint or glue etc. etc. Thank you Sir! My only regret is that you live in Canada and it's not easy or maybe impossible to meet you in person somewhere soon. But I'm really thankful that you put these instructions on-line 8 years ago. I'm going to watch them several times to be sure not to miss anything important. And, forgot to say, my spot welder is getting a new life. Best! Job
The combination of theoretical knowledge as well as the practical manufacturing, hands on knowledge is such a rare combination these days, and it keeps getting even more rare as younger generations enters the real world, unfortunately the separation between the skill sets really seems increase with younger age. Although when there are exceptions to the trend I've observed, the very rare occurrences are usually truly exceptional and they have been among the most brilliant humans I've ever worked with. Also, this is an awesome video series!
I have no immediate or real intention to build any prototypes. But I'm watching this whole series as Mr. Gelbart seems so smart and willing to share information that I find it hard to believe this information won't be useful to me in the future.
I’m about to graduate as a an Associate Mechanical Engineer and I’ve started as a graduate doing R&D, 3D printing, CAD drawing and general engineering calculations. This series is essential for all the work I’ve been doing recently. It’s wonderful.
Dan, Another plastic that is quite useful is UHMW (Ultra-High Molecular Weight). It can be used as working surfaces of industrial shot peening with little to no wear, even after years of use. This series of lectures is fascinating!
Also i would stock some thin brass rod (maybe TIG welding rod?), so i can cut it to small pieces of custom length to be used as makeshift rivets. Just insert into the hole and hammer the end flat. No need to heat it up. Not sure if there are any better materials for this... (Aluminum? Bronze?) For bigger diameters, you can also use hollow tubes, not only solid rods.
I use nail polish on anything that thread lock will ruin, just a bit on the threads and it holds as well as something going through plastic would need to.
I read that even at cryogenic temperatures the creep of Kevlar was too large for it to be useful for the supports of space telescope secondary mirrors. They stuck with berillium.
Folks, at 06:15 Dan begins to show how springs can be made. These next two videos by Jack Houweling expands some on that topic (though Jack doesn't heat treat his) - ua-cam.com/video/Us28iaPOitU/v-deo.html How to make springs Jack Houweling ua-cam.com/video/ECkX1Bsb-Us/v-deo.html Make Dowels, Only Using Your Vise Jack Houweling
@@dgelbart I'm thinking maybe Tadesan meant sacrificial in terms of strength (because the phenolic teeth are in effect a series of cantilevered shear pins) rather than wear?
@@dgelbart Hmmm - a properly sized shear pin (like a fuse) should also last forever ... except in the case of accidental overload, when it protects more difficult-to-replace components in series with it, by shearing?
@@Gottenhimfella in that case you usually want to design a failure point somewhere else like on a shaft or by using an off the shelf torque limited coupling. Phenol gears may be easier to machine, but it's still more work then replacing a coupling.
A great piece of knowledge yet again ! Thank You for sharing. So if you may, could you explain what materials you used in your steam engine ? You said it didn't need to be lubricated . You mentioned carbon composites and ceramics . So are we talking about graphite ?!? I am really interested because I want to build a compound steam engine and this would be very helpful. Your content is to die for :) Best of luck :)
The simplest is a cylinder from hardened, ground and polished 440C stainless and a 440C stainless piston with a carbon/Vespel sleeve over it, plus Teflon rings. The carbon/Vespel is a commercial material. The mirror finish is very important. I also tested more exotic combinations (like a zirconia piston in a special cylinder) but they would be very difficult to fabricate unless you are set up for making ceramic parts.
Omg :))) I can't believe you replied ! Yeah that's what I was leaning to in the first place(teflon in stainless), but when I heard about no lubrication systems I was very interested. So I googled it and saw a bunch of pretty interesting stuff with graphite pistons , but all proprietary ceramic finishes on the cylinder . So yeah, Vespel is a pretty penny but I guess it's worth it. Thank you , you are awesome ! Anyway I am certain everyone would love to hear about the process you went through with your engine :) Perhaps another video would cover this ,more in dept ;) I am looking forward to any content you may post :) Tons of love from Bulgaria , and all the best !
sir, is it okay to temper using heater cartridges fixed as a jig to uniformly heat a part? like multiple soldering iron fixed at different parts of a irregular part. thank you
I am a bit late to the party, but when you say it can be done in a oven, how long does the exposure to the target temperature need to be. Or rather how short? I imagine leaving it in for hours is not a good idea.
@@kurtu5 "a rule of thumb is one hour per inch of thickness with a two hour minimum. Longer tempering times are not detrimental and it is essential that the steel is soaked at temperature after the steel catches up with the furnace temperature." The two hour minimum is for heavy pieces in a furnace; small pieces tempered with a torch, with the surface temperature monitored directly, will temper through to the midcore virtually instantaneously. A neat trick for tempering only the business end of a small tool (like a D-bit reamer, say) is to poke the other end into a potato, to act as a heat sink and holder, all in one. And an interesting idea for production tempering small parts is to immerse them in molten tin. Lead has been used but the vapour produced at higher temperatures is (of course) toxic.
Thanks again Dan, once again confused, (not by you) but is tempering the same thing as normalizing? I ask, because of some books say to either temper or normalize after hardening, so is it the same processes? Thanks, Charles
Tempering is trading off some hardness for toughness (impact strength). Normalizing is a form of annealing, to leave the material stress free and having uniform grain size at the expense of all (or most) hardness.
Just wanted to say that I applaud this unselfish altruistic effort that has helped me immensely. In the true spirit of UA-cam, while most are now just making infomercials disguised as content.
Dan, I've watched these videos over and over, and probably will for the rest of my career. Each time I do I pick up something new. I started watching them years ago and they influence how I think about design work almost constantly. Thank you. I hope you are well.
This is the best series of videos anywhere on building anything!!!
Mr Gilbert - you are a very interesting man. I've only just found your channel but i've already watched 11 or so of your vids. Great stuff and so clear - brill. thank you.
I think i'll make it a point to remaster the series for better audio and add subtitles.
That would be wonderful.
Also, please contact me about this at dan.gelbart@gmail.com
Something I have learn from the teaching style, demonstrate everything that you can!. I could read tempering procedures all day, in 2 minutes I've learned more and in a way that I wont forget.
This must be some of the best content I have ever come across. One material I have recently discovered is nodular cast iron, known by trade names like Dura-Bar. Great machinability, dampening and lubricating properties.
Dan, I'm amazed your channel doesn't get more attention from the technical community on UA-cam. My only explanation can be that the audio is really bad and the camera work is not great either. But, I'm a fan for years of watching technical video's of e.g. Tom Lipton, Rob Renzetti, Stefan Gotteswinder etc. But your content is in the same league and a lot of the time, for me personal, even better. This has to do with my own broad field of experience as a designer and a maker of complex mechanical and electronical stuff. But to cut things short; chapeau! I watched 8 parts of your 18 chapters of explanations on prototyping and I've written two pages full of hints and things to research myself already. Powder coating? I already own a big oven and will order a system tomorrow. Lessons on good preparations for paint or glue etc. etc. Thank you Sir! My only regret is that you live in Canada and it's not easy or maybe impossible to meet you in person somewhere soon. But I'm really thankful that you put these instructions on-line 8 years ago. I'm going to watch them several times to be sure not to miss anything important. And, forgot to say, my spot welder is getting a new life. Best! Job
The combination of theoretical knowledge as well as the practical manufacturing, hands on knowledge is such a rare combination these days, and it keeps getting even more rare as younger generations enters the real world, unfortunately the separation between the skill sets really seems increase with younger age.
Although when there are exceptions to the trend I've observed, the very rare occurrences are usually truly exceptional and they have been among the most brilliant humans I've ever worked with.
Also, this is an awesome video series!
I have no immediate or real intention to build any prototypes. But I'm watching this whole series as Mr. Gelbart seems so smart and willing to share information that I find it hard to believe this information won't be useful to me in the future.
These videos are all great.
It is a shame the glass segment is missing. Appreciate your knowledge and time put into this work.
I’m about to graduate as a an Associate Mechanical Engineer and I’ve started as a graduate doing R&D, 3D printing, CAD drawing and general engineering calculations. This series is essential for all the work I’ve been doing recently. It’s wonderful.
love the series watched it years ago and go trough them all once more ! learn every time! thanks for making them!!
I'm glad I came by your channel, thank you
I've learnt more from your video than 20hrs of scavenging the internet , thank you so much
Dan, Another plastic that is quite useful is UHMW (Ultra-High Molecular Weight). It can be used as working surfaces of industrial shot peening with little to no wear, even after years of use. This series of lectures is fascinating!
it's a type of pe
@@heartminer5487 Thanks! I forgot to add the "polyurethane" to the proper name since we always just called it UHMW at work.
Also i would stock some thin brass rod (maybe TIG welding rod?), so i can cut it to small pieces of custom length to be used as makeshift rivets. Just insert into the hole and hammer the end flat. No need to heat it up. Not sure if there are any better materials for this... (Aluminum? Bronze?) For bigger diameters, you can also use hollow tubes, not only solid rods.
Thank you! This was very useful!!
wish you were my teacher ...great demonstration
I use nail polish on anything that thread lock will ruin, just a bit on the threads and it holds as well as something going through plastic would need to.
I read that even at cryogenic temperatures the creep of Kevlar was too large for it to be useful for the supports of space telescope secondary mirrors. They stuck with berillium.
Folks, at 06:15 Dan begins to show how springs can be made. These next two videos by Jack Houweling expands some on that topic (though Jack doesn't heat treat his) - ua-cam.com/video/Us28iaPOitU/v-deo.html
How to make springs Jack Houweling
ua-cam.com/video/ECkX1Bsb-Us/v-deo.html
Make Dowels, Only Using Your Vise Jack Houweling
What is that handheld temperature touch sensor that's being used? Looks very handy, but I'm having trouble finding any instruments like that.
Cymerian Designs Amazon carries them under "non-contact temperature sensor" , they are about $20.
Steel on phenolic gears are also quite useful if you want one of the gears to be sacrificial!
Oddly enough there is almost no wear in this combination. You can see such gears that ran for years under proper lubrication.
@@dgelbart I'm thinking maybe Tadesan meant sacrificial in terms of strength (because the phenolic teeth are in effect a series of cantilevered shear pins) rather than wear?
@@Gottenhimfella Properly sized they are not sacrificial, they last forever.
@@dgelbart Hmmm - a properly sized shear pin (like a fuse) should also last forever ... except in the case of accidental overload, when it protects more difficult-to-replace components in series with it, by shearing?
@@Gottenhimfella in that case you usually want to design a failure point somewhere else like on a shaft or by using an off the shelf torque limited coupling. Phenol gears may be easier to machine, but it's still more work then replacing a coupling.
A great piece of knowledge yet again ! Thank You for sharing. So if you may, could you explain what materials you used in your steam engine ? You said it didn't need to be lubricated . You mentioned carbon composites and ceramics . So are we talking about graphite ?!? I am really interested because I want to build a compound steam engine and this would be very helpful.
Your content is to die for :) Best of luck :)
The simplest is a cylinder from hardened, ground and polished 440C stainless and a 440C stainless piston with a carbon/Vespel sleeve over it, plus Teflon rings. The carbon/Vespel is a commercial material. The mirror finish is very important. I also tested more exotic combinations (like a zirconia piston in a special cylinder) but they would be very difficult to fabricate unless you are set up for making ceramic parts.
Omg :))) I can't believe you replied ! Yeah that's what I was leaning to in the first place(teflon in stainless), but when I heard about no lubrication systems I was very interested. So I googled it and saw a bunch of pretty interesting stuff with graphite pistons , but all proprietary ceramic finishes on the cylinder . So yeah, Vespel is a pretty penny but I guess it's worth it. Thank you , you are awesome ! Anyway I am certain everyone would love to hear about the process you went through with your engine :) Perhaps another video would cover this ,more in dept ;) I am looking forward to any content you may post :)
Tons of love from Bulgaria , and all the best !
The video quits at 30:00 yet it goes on for a few more minutes and it seems that there's some content (voiceover) at the end.
LateralThinkerer Indeed there is a section missing (camera battery died?) but I don't have it. It was about working with glass.
Any chance to get the glass info put up?
Thanks so much for doing these!
@@timmusson4344 it's on part 11, at minute 13
I've read that phenolic is considered carcinogenic by some.
What is your lab? I work at Carnegie Geophysical Laboratory, Washington, D.C.
sir, is it okay to temper using heater cartridges fixed as a jig to uniformly heat a part? like multiple soldering iron fixed at different parts of a irregular part. thank you
+Dan Gelbart oh yes!, I completely went for a complex solution to a simple problem. Thank you sir
I am a bit late to the party, but when you say it can be done in a oven, how long does the exposure to the target temperature need to be. Or rather how short? I imagine leaving it in for hours is not a good idea.
@@kurtu5 "a rule of thumb is one hour per inch of thickness with a two hour minimum. Longer tempering times are not detrimental and it is essential that the steel is soaked at temperature after the steel catches up with the furnace temperature."
The two hour minimum is for heavy pieces in a furnace; small pieces tempered with a torch, with the surface temperature monitored directly, will temper through to the midcore virtually instantaneously.
A neat trick for tempering only the business end of a small tool (like a D-bit reamer, say) is to poke the other end into a potato, to act as a heat sink and holder, all in one.
And an interesting idea for production tempering small parts is to immerse them in molten tin. Lead has been used but the vapour produced at higher temperatures is (of course) toxic.
Thanks again Dan, once again confused, (not by you) but is tempering the same thing as normalizing?
I ask, because of some books say to either temper or normalize after hardening, so is it the same processes?
Thanks,
Charles
Tempering is trading off some hardness for toughness (impact strength). Normalizing is a form of annealing, to leave the material stress free and having uniform grain size at the expense of all (or most) hardness.