I have this in our skoolie.. but we bought the one with the 4 smaller output tube end. I used the small piping to make "elbows" and then metal electrical conduit as stright runs to "duct" the heat around the bus. I plan to do the same when we move back on to a boat. The plus side of this is the metal tubing (two run under the bed) also radiate heat in the cubby areas they run through
Great and instructive video. I'm about to install a Webasto air heater in our sailboat. The same constructions principle. In the Webasto manual they do not recommend the heater to be installed transversely to the longitudinal axis of the boat in a sailing boat. It's OK in motor boat or if the heater is used mainly when docked. What is your opinion on that issue? Any thought would be greatly appreciated.
I have both types of controller's that you can get with the heater. I can switch between the 2. I use the rotary one the most. I think I will look into the controller you have. Maybe the lcd one will get replaced by that one.
As Andy said in the video we haven’t had much need to use the heater yet, but the new controller has so many more features than the LCD one we have in the van!
The exhaust should come out thru the transom because it's a sailboat? You have no goose neck in the exhaust so instead you have that drainage pipe, but doesn't that let exhaust inside the boat?
Exhaust can be on the transom and a lot of sailboats are setup that way. You want a spot that doesn’t get submerged while heeling and exposed to limited spray. On our Alberg 30 the aft corner made the most sense. Many choose to plug the exhaust when not in use. A wine cork fits perfectly. It might be hard to see but the exhaust does rise several inches above the outlet before dipping down to connect to the heater. The condensate drain has several loops in it which hold water acting like a sink P trap. Preventing exhaust from escaping and letting water drain out.
@@AbroadReachTravel We are assembling a similar type of heater, and the manual says the exhaust has to be in the transom at least 60 cm above waterline and the goose neck has to be 30 cm high, but this is impossible because the hull is not tall enough. Have to choose between assembling it close to the waterline or assembing a low goose neck. Which way you think it should be done?
I with the options presented I would go with short gooseneck and a high mounted outlet. Think about a drain in the low spot and maybe plug the outlet if conditions require.
@@AbroadReachTravel Yes, I agree mounting it high, but it would still be less than 60 cm from waterline. Those drain pipe curves could dry out without noticing it, and I'm concerned of not remembering to remove that plug from the exhaust outlet.
Great video - good display info! I am about to install a heater myself hence the curiosity... How did the heater work out? I read that the fuel line shouldn´t exceed 1 meter - the pump will wear out - is it working okay for you guys? Any noise issues? cheers from Denmark
Thanks! We have a couple of hundred hours on it now with no issues very happy. No issues with the pump, from the tank to the pump it’s a meter then another 3 to the heater. The Espar D2/D4 manual (which these heaters are a direct copy) says 5M on the suction side and 6M on the pressure side. We can hear a faint click of the pump in the main cabin that doesn’t really bother us. Can’t hear it at all from the forward cabin. -Andy
Exactly, It’s a drain to let out any condensate from combustion or the unlikely event water splashes up the exhaust. The loop shape keeps a bit of water trapped in it so exhaust gasses can’t escape. I didn’t make it my self, I got that one off eBay search: “Diesel Heater Drain Elbow”. -Andy
I have this in our skoolie.. but we bought the one with the 4 smaller output tube end. I used the small piping to make "elbows" and then metal electrical conduit as stright runs to "duct" the heat around the bus. I plan to do the same when we move back on to a boat. The plus side of this is the metal tubing (two run under the bed) also radiate heat in the cubby areas they run through
Great and instructive video.
I'm about to install a Webasto air heater in our sailboat. The same constructions principle.
In the Webasto manual they do not recommend the heater to be installed transversely to the longitudinal axis of the boat in a sailing boat. It's OK in motor boat or if the heater is used mainly when docked. What is your opinion on that issue? Any thought would be greatly appreciated.
I have both types of controller's that you can get with the heater. I can switch between the 2. I use the rotary one the most.
I think I will look into the controller you have. Maybe the lcd one will get replaced by that one.
As Andy said in the video we haven’t had much need to use the heater yet, but the new controller has so many more features than the LCD one we have in the van!
LCD ones use more power though.
If you run these on high for 5 minutes before shutting off it keeps the burn chamber from sooting up.
Did you install a muffler?
What type of metal did u use for the platform of your heater, By the way Great Video !
1/4” aluminum and two stainless steel angle brackets. Thanks for watching!
The exhaust should come out thru the transom because it's a sailboat? You have no goose neck in the exhaust so instead you have that drainage pipe, but doesn't that let exhaust inside the boat?
Exhaust can be on the transom and a lot of sailboats are setup that way. You want a spot that doesn’t get submerged while heeling and exposed to limited spray. On our Alberg 30 the aft corner made the most sense. Many choose to plug the exhaust when not in use. A wine cork fits perfectly.
It might be hard to see but the exhaust does rise several inches above the outlet before dipping down to connect to the heater.
The condensate drain has several loops in it which hold water acting like a sink P trap. Preventing exhaust from escaping and letting water drain out.
@@AbroadReachTravel We are assembling a similar type of heater, and the manual says the exhaust has to be in the transom at least 60 cm above waterline and the goose neck has to be 30 cm high, but this is impossible because the hull is not tall enough. Have to choose between assembling it close to the waterline or assembing a low goose neck. Which way you think it should be done?
I with the options presented I would go with short gooseneck and a high mounted outlet. Think about a drain in the low spot and maybe plug the outlet if conditions require.
@@AbroadReachTravel Yes, I agree mounting it high, but it would still be less than 60 cm from waterline. Those drain pipe curves could dry out without noticing it, and I'm concerned of not remembering to remove that plug from the exhaust outlet.
Great video - good display info! I am about to install a heater myself hence the curiosity... How did the heater work out? I read that the fuel line shouldn´t exceed 1 meter - the pump will wear out - is it working okay for you guys? Any noise issues? cheers from Denmark
Thanks! We have a couple of hundred hours on it now with no issues very happy.
No issues with the pump, from the tank to the pump it’s a meter then another 3 to the heater.
The Espar D2/D4 manual (which these heaters are a direct copy) says 5M on the suction side and 6M on the pressure side.
We can hear a faint click of the pump in the main cabin that doesn’t really bother us. Can’t hear it at all from the forward cabin.
-Andy
Great video...where did you get the 90 degree condenser for the exhaust . Thanks
Hi this is the condensation elbow we used: fave.co/3m43LUH
Hi, thanks for the video, on your exhaust there was the coiled nipple for drain etc ? What is it for and did you make it your self ?
Exactly, It’s a drain to let out any condensate from combustion or the unlikely event water splashes up the exhaust. The loop shape keeps a bit of water trapped in it so exhaust gasses can’t escape. I didn’t make it my self, I got that one off eBay search: “Diesel Heater Drain Elbow”. -Andy
@@AbroadReachTravel thank you for the reply and all the info :)
What did u wrap around the thru hull fitting on the outside side before pushing it into the hull
Butyl tape. Its a great sealant for above the waterline stuff but NOT for below the waterline ☺️