Great video, clearly shot. Gave me the confidence to do this myself. Although, having started I realised that my mk3 has an anti roll bar and his didn't. This adds a whole new level of fun when trying to get the suspension arm back in. So, release the drop links and tie rod ends on both sides to allow the anti roll bar to give you a bit of clearance. If only I had known. Also fitted new drop links, another thing not shown because there is no anti roll bar. The new drop links need to be squeezed once in place, to expose enough thread to start the nut on. You will need a jack to push up your suspension arm at the ball joint, and a bar to lever down on the anti roll bar around the top of drop link. with one hand keep pressure on the bar, with other push the rubber and washer whilst getting the nut on. Purists are going to hate this, but I had the engine bottom cover in place, I was working on the drive with axle stands and jacks and really did not want to get into removing it, so I cut a small piece out, with a multi-tool, to allow me to take out one of the bolts without disturbing the cover. I did pop rivet a bit of aluminium over the hole at the end to strengthen and because I felt a bit guilty. Really, you have to have new ball joints.
Thank you for your feedback! We appreciate your valuable comment. It will be useful for us and our audience. We are glad you find our video interesting and informative. Stay tuned. Best regards, Autodoc.
Imagine if yours had the VR6 engine and you were doing the other side. That long front bolt won't come out so you have to remove the oil pan. Great time to replace the oil pan gasket and change the oil.
@@KamiruNusbaum Not with the VR6 unless you want to have leaks and motor mount issues. I just look at the timing being perfect to do the oil pan gasket and change the oil. And of course replace the ball joints with new ones considering you're going to need a wheel alignment anyways.
In the video we wanted to show the replacement of the front lower arm in particular. This video is considered to be an informative one, so it just shows the sequence of repairs. Best regards, Autodoc.
Moi, je change la rotule, elle coûte 10€ et parfois moins de 10€. Après ça dépend de vos moyens. Si la rotule est bonne, on la garde en gardant à l'esprit que au bout d'un peut être faudra la changer si vous faites vous même. Si vous n'êtes pas de compétences pour le faire, alors remplacer les deux au même moment pour éviter de payer encore le prix du garage.@@angeloflorianowicz7797
Autodoc, do you have advice on how to remove this 3:36 control arm bolt without causing the nut plate to separate from the subframe? My concern is that as loosening pressure is applied to the bolt head, this could cause the nut plate inside the subframe to separate from the subframe, resulting in an inability to remove the bold. What is the best way to ensure this problem is prevented from occurring? I have already sprayed the nut plate repeatedly with break free penetrating oil. What else can be done? Will the use of an pneumatic impact wrench be better than a hand held wrench, or vis versa? Should the subframe be heated in order to slightly expand the metal during bold removal? Do you have other better ideas? I need this bolt removal to be successful. Thank you. Great video.
autodoc.co.uk All that labor and still used the same old ball joint. Thats like going in the shower and using the same previously worn underwear LOL.. Need me to rephrase anything again?
For those of you who are watching this and have a Mk3 with an AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, you will need to undo the engine mounts and jack the engine up to have clearance for the bolt to come out on the drivers side.
Thank you for the feedback! Your opinion and remarks are very important for us. We will take them into consideration for our next tutorial. Best regards, Autodoc.
Have a 1.4L mk3 Golf with 5-speed transmission, also had to lift the engine, but not loosen any mounts. was just enough clearance to remove the bolt that was behind the oil-pan. What is different on the handicap version(Automatic Transmission)?
I have a 2002 cabrio - transmission pan is in the way on the driver's side. Just out of curiosity - did you unbolt both rear engine mounts or just the bolt for the rear engine mount on the driver's side? Also, where did you place the jack to lift the engine? Thanks.
Your video helped me on yet another project on my Jetta! Thank you from the USA. One difference I noticed though was my car has a sway bar and the one in the video did not. Made getting the control arm in much more challenging!
Thank you for your feedback! Unfortunately, in your case, the replacement will be a little more complicated, but the principle itself will be similar. Best regards, Autodoc team.
Man thank you soo much for those videos. Is it possible to record and upload replacing clutch plate on vw golf 3 ? It's verry educational video especially for people who doesn't know that much about car so most of auto mechanic's take advantage to cheat them with replacing some good parts just to take money for nothing...
Thank you for the feedback! We are currently working on creating a wider range of tutorials including those that you mentioned. Please, follow our updates on the videos. Best regards, Autodoc.
In general, the replacement will be similar, the only thing that may be slightly different in the design features of your car. More accurate information can be obtained in the technical documentation for the car or by contacting the service.
Hey I just got mine done thanks to the video, mine came with a new ball joint so I’m happy. But what I noticed is mine came with a sway bark link and in this video I don’t see it on that control arm. Is this not a problem?
autodoc.co.uk your arm you took off has no sway bar link connected to it. You also didn’t reinstall the sway bar link. So I’m confused . I had to figure this out myself
Thank you for your comment! We highly recommend that you contact our Customer Support agents and you will get an advice on which car pats you need to obtain. We look forward to hearing from you! Best regards, Autodoc!
Thank you for your feedback. We have also replaced this sleeve in the rear mounting, but, unfortunately, the video editing doesn't show it. Best regards, Autodoc.
In this case, this option was shown. This video contains only tips and recommendations that may be useful when performing car repairs or replacing parts.
Those bolts you tightened up with a impact gun should NEVER be done that way. In fact if you look at the service manual, there are specific torque tightening instructions which would mean those are one time use stretch bolts. There's being cheap and saving a little here and there but I'd hate to think what would happen if one of those bolts sheared off from being reused and over-tightened while going 120km/h.
8:44 - this is a torque to yield bolt - wtf are you doing using air on it and not torquing it down to spec properly!? 52ft lbs + 1/4 turn AS PER THE BENTLEY MANUAL. 9:25 - this is only suppose to be torqued to 37 ft lbs...you probably went way past that with air. Please do the job correctly.
Thank you for your feedback! We are grateful for your valuable remark. We understand that we made a big mistake, and in our new videos we won`t make it again. We will use only all the necessary tools without such breaking the rules. Best regards, Autodoc.
Thank you for the feedback! We are currently working on creating a wider range of tutorials including the car you mentioned. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
It's not a difficult job. I've just replaced the whole thermostat hosing on my 1400 petrol Mk 3. Just remember to buy a separate O ring for the water pump pipe to housing joint.
At first looks very difficult but it is in fact a simple job. Do it like this: Lower radiator hose, empty the most coolant u can from the radiator first. Unbolt 10 mm bracket securing hidraulic pump high pressure line. Untighten first the 13 mm bolt in the hidraulic pump securing it in the ajduster bracket, in the back first. Then untighten 13 mm in the adjuster in front. Turn ajduster to give slack on the belt. Take belt off. Then take the adjuster out aswell with the 13 mm bolt. Remove 16 mm big bolt securing hidaulic pump to the braket. Take the hdraulic pump off, try to wiggle it arround, its really stuck over the years, some penetrating luid helps. Sit the hidraulic pump on the floor out of the way. Be careful with the hose and line. Then take the braket off, there's 3 13 mm bolts securing it. And Voila! you can see the thermostat housing, which are 2 10 mm bolts. Take it off, change thermostat the same way it was, with new oring and do the reverse of removal. Dont tight too much the thermostat housing which is plastic, 10 NM is it. After you do it one time, you can do this job another time for like 10 mins, and u dont even need to jack the car and remove any wheel. Pretty simple.
Great video, clearly shot. Gave me the confidence to do this myself. Although, having started I realised that my mk3 has an anti roll bar and his didn't. This adds a whole new level of fun when trying to get the suspension arm back in. So, release the drop links and tie rod ends on both sides to allow the anti roll bar to give you a bit of clearance. If only I had known. Also fitted new drop links, another thing not shown because there is no anti roll bar. The new drop links need to be squeezed once in place, to expose enough thread to start the nut on. You will need a jack to push up your suspension arm at the ball joint, and a bar to lever down on the anti roll bar around the top of drop link. with one hand keep pressure on the bar, with other push the rubber and washer whilst getting the nut on. Purists are going to hate this, but I had the engine bottom cover in place, I was working on the drive with axle stands and jacks and really did not want to get into removing it, so I cut a small piece out, with a multi-tool, to allow me to take out one of the bolts without disturbing the cover. I did pop rivet a bit of aluminium over the hole at the end to strengthen and because I felt a bit guilty. Really, you have to have new ball joints.
Thank you for your feedback! We appreciate your valuable comment. It will be useful for us and our audience. We are glad you find our video interesting and informative. Stay tuned. Best regards, Autodoc.
Imagine if yours had the VR6 engine and you were doing the other side. That long front bolt won't come out so you have to remove the oil pan. Great time to replace the oil pan gasket and change the oil.
@@FirstLastOne 1.9 1Y Diesel is the same - but you can jack the engine up just enough to clear it.
@@KamiruNusbaum Not with the VR6 unless you want to have leaks and motor mount issues. I just look at the timing being perfect to do the oil pan gasket and change the oil. And of course replace the ball joints with new ones considering you're going to need a wheel alignment anyways.
I'm sure I'm not the only one who would suggest putting in a new ball joint.
In the video we wanted to show the replacement of the front lower arm in particular. This video is considered to be an informative one, so it just shows the sequence of repairs. Best regards, Autodoc.
hey but if ur changing the front arm on a golf mk3 vr6 do i have to change the ball joint aswell or i dont have to ?
@@angeloflorianowicz7797 Yes, factor the time and wheel alignment costs versus a pair of ball joints. It's a no brainer.
Moi, je change la rotule, elle coûte 10€ et parfois moins de 10€. Après ça dépend de vos moyens. Si la rotule est bonne, on la garde en gardant à l'esprit que au bout d'un peut être faudra la changer si vous faites vous même. Si vous n'êtes pas de compétences pour le faire, alors remplacer les deux au même moment pour éviter de payer encore le prix du garage.@@angeloflorianowicz7797
Autodoc, do you have advice on how to remove this 3:36 control arm bolt without causing the nut plate to separate from the subframe? My concern is that as loosening pressure is applied to the bolt head, this could cause the nut plate inside the subframe to separate from the subframe, resulting in an inability to remove the bold. What is the best way to ensure this problem is prevented from occurring? I have already sprayed the nut plate repeatedly with break free penetrating oil. What else can be done? Will the use of an pneumatic impact wrench be better than a hand held wrench, or vis versa? Should the subframe be heated in order to slightly expand the metal during bold removal? Do you have other better ideas? I need this bolt removal to be successful. Thank you. Great video.
All that work and labor and still used that ball joint 👍
Thank you for your comment.
Please clarify or rephrase your question.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
autodoc.co.uk All that labor and still used the same old ball joint. Thats like going in the shower and using the same previously worn underwear LOL.. Need me to rephrase anything again?
Mine came with a new ball joint. But I noticed no sway bar link is on that arm.
Sniper Paint Correction thats cute
For those of you who are watching this and have a Mk3 with an AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, you will need to undo the engine mounts and jack the engine up to have clearance for the bolt to come out on the drivers side.
Thank you for the feedback! Your opinion and remarks are very important for us. We will take them into consideration for our next tutorial. Best regards, Autodoc.
Have a 1.4L mk3 Golf with 5-speed transmission, also had to lift the engine, but not loosen any mounts. was just enough clearance to remove the bolt that was behind the oil-pan. What is different on the handicap version(Automatic Transmission)?
I have a 2002 cabrio - transmission pan is in the way on the driver's side. Just out of curiosity - did you unbolt both rear engine mounts or just the bolt for the rear engine mount on the driver's side? Also, where did you place the jack to lift the engine? Thanks.
Your video helped me on yet another project on my Jetta! Thank you from the USA. One difference I noticed though was my car has a sway bar and the one in the video did not. Made getting the control arm in much more challenging!
Thank you for your feedback!
Unfortunately, in your case, the replacement will be a little more complicated, but the principle itself will be similar.
Best regards,
Autodoc team.
great video however, on looking under mine the sump is in the way of the front bolt, do I have to raise the engine or drop the subframe. Golf mk 3 VR6
It is not necessary to raise the engine or lower the subframe.
AUTODOC
Man thank you soo much for those videos. Is it possible to record and upload replacing clutch plate on vw golf 3 ? It's verry educational video especially for people who doesn't know that much about car so most of auto mechanic's take advantage to cheat them with replacing some good parts just to take money for nothing...
Thank you for the feedback! We are currently working on creating a wider range of tutorials including those that you mentioned. Please, follow our updates on the videos. Best regards, Autodoc.
Great vid...can I ask is this the same for a mk3 caddy maxi 2012....Wishbone looks the same. If so what are the torque settings please.
In general, the replacement will be similar, the only thing that may be slightly different in the design features of your car. More accurate information can be obtained in the technical documentation for the car or by contacting the service.
@@autodocuk Thank you. All done.
You have to tell us that after that we have to fix wheels with steering wheel . Thank you for video .
Thank you for your comment and for your clarification.
Please stay tuned with us for more new videos coming soon.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Thanks
Hey I just got mine done thanks to the video, mine came with a new ball joint so I’m happy. But what I noticed is mine came with a sway bark link and in this video I don’t see it on that control arm. Is this not a problem?
Please clarify or rephrase your question.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team.
autodoc.co.uk your arm you took off has no sway bar link connected to it. You also didn’t reinstall the sway bar link. So I’m confused . I had to figure this out myself
@@sniperpaintcorrection
Arm has hole for sway bar link but this car doesn't have sway bar. Probably someone removed it or it wasn't equipped at all.
E-ce que dans golf 2 il y a une barre stabilité ?
Yes, an anti-roll bar is fitted to the GOLF 2.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
AUTODOC team
What's the special tool called to removed the anti roll bar?
Thank you for your comment.
Ball-bearing puller, you can find this tool on our website by article number V3308 VIGOR.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Hello I am from Brazil and would like to know where to find the golf mk3 suspension bolt torque table. Thanks
Thank you for your comment! We highly recommend that you contact our Customer Support agents and you will get an advice on which car pats you need to obtain. We look forward to hearing from you! Best regards, Autodoc!
@@autodocuk what do you think can 225 40 R18 fit on this car ?
now let's see a video of you doing the control arm on the passenger side. Totally different animal.
Thank you for the feedback and for following us! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Best regards, Autodoc.
actually its the exact same..what are you on about?
Didn't you forget the sleeve in the rear mounting? For instance "Meyle 100 407 0085".
Thank you for your feedback. We have also replaced this sleeve in the rear mounting, but, unfortunately, the video editing doesn't show it. Best regards, Autodoc.
Gracias por el video
Thank you for the feedback! We are grateful that you appreciate our media! To see more interesting content stay tuned. Best Regards, Autodoc.
Why there is no anti-roll tape in this car
In this case, this option was shown. This video contains only tips and recommendations that may be useful when performing car repairs or replacing parts.
Why didn't you put in a new ball joint while you had the whole control arm out? It would have been so easy and cheap!
Почему вы не поставили новый шаровой шарнир, пока снимали весь рычаг? Это было бы так просто и дешево!
Those bolts you tightened up with a impact gun should NEVER be done that way. In fact if you look at the service manual, there are specific torque tightening instructions which would mean those are one time use stretch bolts. There's being cheap and saving a little here and there but I'd hate to think what would happen if one of those bolts sheared off from being reused and over-tightened while going 120km/h.
You're absolutely right, in practice, you should definitely use a torque wrench and observe the appropriate tightening torques.
8:44 - this is a torque to yield bolt - wtf are you doing using air on it and not torquing it down to spec properly!? 52ft lbs + 1/4 turn AS PER THE BENTLEY MANUAL.
9:25 - this is only suppose to be torqued to 37 ft lbs...you probably went way past that with air.
Please do the job correctly.
Thank you for your feedback! We are grateful for your valuable remark. We understand that we made a big mistake, and in our new videos we won`t make it again. We will use only all the necessary tools without such breaking the rules. Best regards, Autodoc.
Or if someone is using torque wrench in Nm
52ft = 70Nm + 90° turn
37ft = 50Nm + 90° turn
😁
WHERE IS THE REPLACEMENT OF THE THERMOSTAT FOR THE GOLF MK3!!//////// CUASE THERE IS NO VIDEO OF IT!! ON UA-cam!!
Thank you for the feedback! We are currently working on creating a wider range of tutorials including the car you mentioned. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
It's not a difficult job. I've just replaced the whole thermostat hosing on my 1400 petrol Mk 3. Just remember to buy a separate O ring for the water pump pipe to housing joint.
At first looks very difficult but it is in fact a simple job. Do it like this:
Lower radiator hose, empty the most coolant u can from the radiator first.
Unbolt 10 mm bracket securing hidraulic pump high pressure line.
Untighten first the 13 mm bolt in the hidraulic pump securing it in the ajduster bracket, in the back first. Then untighten 13 mm in the adjuster in front. Turn ajduster to give slack on the belt. Take belt off. Then take the adjuster out aswell with the 13 mm bolt.
Remove 16 mm big bolt securing hidaulic pump to the braket. Take the hdraulic pump off, try to wiggle it arround, its really stuck over the years, some penetrating luid helps.
Sit the hidraulic pump on the floor out of the way. Be careful with the hose and line.
Then take the braket off, there's 3 13 mm bolts securing it. And Voila! you can see the thermostat housing, which are 2 10 mm bolts. Take it off, change thermostat the same way it was, with new oring and do the reverse of removal. Dont tight too much the thermostat housing which is plastic, 10 NM is it. After you do it one time, you can do this job another time for like 10 mins, and u dont even need to jack the car and remove any wheel. Pretty simple.