Seiko has been my personal favorite brand for almost a decade now. They make anything from cheap tungsten quartz pieces to titanium constant force tourbillions. Such a diverse brand.
Seiko has always been my favourite watch brand I still have one from 40 years ago and newer models as well some people complain about their prices moving up but I would say every watch brand has had price increases and also most brands under 1000 have been hit by losing sales to the Apple Watch and people who don’t own watches due to their mobile phones telling the time so seiko I feel had to be competitive with new seiko 5s and presages citizen with tsuyosa and tissot with prx the Apple Watch outsells all these models so these brands have a fight on their hands
WatchMonkey, I gave up on the silicon hairspring watches that have not done any favors for mechanical watch history other than forever excluding curb regulation. As for Eberhard, yes, but they really have very little of their own movement-making but have done some interesting modifications on ETA movement. Take care, Bill
HRM, my list was limited to those companies that make their own movements or own all or part of a movement company. I was very happy to see Eberhard win the Sports prize in the 2017 GPHG, though. Take care, Bill
@ I was on the fence about silicon hairsprings but feel that the advantages out weigh the disadvantages, kinda like old school car guys when fuel injection was becoming more main stream and the carburetor lovers swore they would never get fuel injected computer managed cars.
Very glad you included independent Chopard. It's the only house making Geneva Seal and QF (ironically the last QF house after Parmigiani pulled out). I think there's a common misconception amongst enthusiasts that Chopard is a jewellery house, but in fact they're originally a watch manufacturer and have continuously been a high-end watch manufacturer since the 1860s - jewellery didn't arrive util the 1980s. The Michele Parmigiani designed 1.96 movement is at the core of many of their watches - one of the finest modern movements - but made/finished to very different levels through their range, from entry to GS.
A great list! In addition to Seiko and Grand Seiko I would like to mention Credor. You can get a descent deal on some of them. My favorite is the EICHI II (well, it has a Spring drive movement), but that is quite expensive, even pre-owned. The Locomotive, originally designed by Gerald Genta, is very cool too, but has a Seiko based movement as I understand it. But the overall craftsmanship really is incredible.
Can especially find great deals on their microartists pieces. One of the Credor Grand Sonnerie models sold for 34.000 USD recently, that piece retailed for 400.000 USD excluding tax!! Their ultra-thin models also offer good value, some of the solid gold 6870 Credor's sell for less than 3000 USD.
Love the looks of Ball watches-Trainmaster, and Horage has been doing some interesting things with external regulators. Still warming up to Horage, Amgc. Take care, Bill
One small correction, Bill: the Chopard LUC XPS Twist QF that you listed is not in steel but in white gold. Also, in case anyone is wondering whether Chopard uses unplated “grey” white gold, their American representative confirmed to me that they use rhodium-plated white gold (which I find very unfortunate).
Hey Lakes, we'll be discussing them in tomorrow morning's live stream at 8am NY time ... here are a couple of videos I did on them. Here're some links to why- ua-cam.com/video/sdTSYNNlBJ8/v-deo.html. and ua-cam.com/video/px61TXK1R4k/v-deo.html Take care, Bill
I’m relatively new to watch collecting so I asked chat got what’s the best watch for finishing and movement under 10000 and grand seiko and jlc was the the answer and after further research myself this was very true
Hi James-pretty much for the same reason that the Geneva Seal Foundation doesn't like them. Here're some links to why- ua-cam.com/video/sdTSYNNlBJ8/v-deo.html. and ua-cam.com/video/px61TXK1R4k/v-deo.html Take care, Bill
Hey Bill, I have the exact same Habring Erwin and recently added a Jürgensen 1140 Brown Limited Edition with the P4 movement to my collection...You know I'm a sucker for Breguet numerals...just mentioning it since I don’t have anyone else to talk watches with!... They go well together, and I’m sure there’s no silicon inside either! :) all the best!
The Geophysic dials are truly beautiful. I have recently become a Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Green owner. Love everything about the watch and strap but the OEM butterfly deployant clasp is an embarrassment to both the brand and Richemont. One of the primary purposes of a deployant clasp is to eliminate the possibility of the watch falling off the wrist and dropping to a hard surface floor shocking the watch or the crystal. But for the fact that we have thick carpeting, my Reverso would have been a goner as the butterfly deployant clasp separates from the pinholes in the strap. I have an alligator pin and buckle strap from Delugs in transit to remediate the situation. A luxury Reverso deserves a better deployant.
Patek, Vacheron Constantin , Audemars Peugeot …..why bother with anything else. Nice content Bill. Keeping me on my toes …… Silicon hair springs agree but like Electric Cars. It’s going to happen and take over eventually 😊
Tim, Mechanical watches were can alternative to the much better quartz watches. Silicon is a short-cut junk solution. I'll have nothing to do with a PP after 2009. Take care, Bill
Hi Michael, I did some videos on my views - check these out: Here're some links to why- ua-cam.com/video/sdTSYNNlBJ8/v-deo.html. and ua-cam.com/video/px61TXK1R4k/v-deo.html. Take care, Bill
moser and chopard are one of those brands that you dont feel the company is cheaping out on entry-level watches. If the watches are less expensive to produce its gonna have lower prices. the basic steel pioneer and the basic xps, around 10k rrp.
The Nomos Zurich is a dual time watch - not a world timer. It only shows the time in 2 locations at any given setting. A true world timer shows 24+ city times simultaneously. The A Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Timezone is similar and is also a dual time watch - not a world timer. Otherwise, great video.
I wish that Seiko did not print Presage on the dial. The date window on the Twist Chopard is awful, ruined the look. We watch nerds as so opinionated , I am the front of the queue. Great and interesting selection as usual Bill.
Hey Bill, I’m sure have discussed your disgust for silicon hair springs. I must have missed it. I know some of your knowledge of vintage time pieces. I guess my question is, are you just stuck a bit in the history of the craft of watch making?
Not at all, Marty. If I wanted metalloids in my watches made of transitional metals, I would have bought quartz watches or smart watches ... they're loaded with silicon. Also, I like having swan neck, and AgenPit regulators that actually work ... silicon is too brittle... it'll break if you try and adjust a hairspring made of that crap. If you think it's 'progress'-only for a cheap and inexpensive way by certain manufacturers to make an extra buck; then knock yourself out. Take care, Bill
I just subscribed to your channel and this is the video that won me over. I love your take on watches. Please, allow me to ask a favor... How about a wrist check? I'm sure I'm not the only one curious.
Seiko has been my personal favorite brand for almost a decade now. They make anything from cheap tungsten quartz pieces to titanium constant force tourbillions. Such a diverse brand.
HRM, it's very popular and for good reason! Take care, Bill
I agree with your assessment about Moser, they have a large range!
Hey Ron, you're the HMC man himself! Take care, Bill
Czapek, laurent ferrier, fp journe, sinn, omega, tudor, breitling and lange
I like Czapek, LF, and FPJ ... and A. Lange too Ahmed! Take care, Bill
Great Christmas jumper
Thanks Verbal-I won it in a HMC lottery! Take care, Bill
Valuable list. I’ve had my eye on the Grand Seiko GMT for quite awhile. Thanks for the recommendations.
Let me know how you like it Chiller. Take care, Bill
Seiko has always been my favourite watch brand I still have one from 40 years ago and newer models as well some people complain about their prices moving up but I would say every watch brand has had price increases and also most brands under 1000 have been hit by losing sales to the Apple Watch and people who don’t own watches due to their mobile phones telling the time so seiko I feel had to be competitive with new seiko 5s and presages citizen with tsuyosa and tissot with prx the Apple Watch outsells all these models so these brands have a fight on their hands
Sounds like an advert for Seiko-40 years and still ticking! My 1963 (or 1967?) Seiko 5 is great little watch. Take care, Bill
❤ Zenith, Eberhard, Longines, Rolex, Omega ❤
Eberhard is extremely underrated by most
@ in places like Italy 🇮🇹 they are very well known and respected. I cant wait to receive my ref # 31008
WatchMonkey, I gave up on the silicon hairspring watches that have not done any favors for mechanical watch history other than forever excluding curb regulation. As for Eberhard, yes, but they really have very little of their own movement-making but have done some interesting modifications on ETA movement. Take care, Bill
HRM, my list was limited to those companies that make their own movements or own all or part of a movement company. I was very happy to see Eberhard win the Sports prize in the 2017 GPHG, though. Take care, Bill
@ I was on the fence about silicon hairsprings but feel that the advantages out weigh the disadvantages, kinda like old school car guys when fuel injection was becoming more main stream and the carburetor lovers swore they would never get fuel injected computer managed cars.
Zenith Elite is also a great look!
Kakhaber You can find some great buys on Zenith Elite models, pre-owned. Take care, Bill
Very glad you included independent Chopard. It's the only house making Geneva Seal and QF (ironically the last QF house after Parmigiani pulled out). I think there's a common misconception amongst enthusiasts that Chopard is a jewellery house, but in fact they're originally a watch manufacturer and have continuously been a high-end watch manufacturer since the 1860s - jewellery didn't arrive util the 1980s. The Michele Parmigiani designed 1.96 movement is at the core of many of their watches - one of the finest modern movements - but made/finished to very different levels through their range, from entry to GS.
James, I've got no problem with luxury brands as long as they put in top notch movements like Chanel Monsieur and Hermès watches. Take care, Bill
A great list! In addition to Seiko and Grand Seiko I would like to mention Credor. You can get a descent deal on some of them. My favorite is the EICHI II (well, it has a Spring drive movement), but that is quite expensive, even pre-owned. The Locomotive, originally designed by Gerald Genta, is very cool too, but has a Seiko based movement as I understand it. But the overall craftsmanship really is incredible.
Can especially find great deals on their microartists pieces. One of the Credor Grand Sonnerie models sold for 34.000 USD recently, that piece retailed for 400.000 USD excluding tax!! Their ultra-thin models also offer good value, some of the solid gold 6870 Credor's sell for less than 3000 USD.
That Eichi II is a gem Harmonia! Take care, Bill
Man I need that Moser sweater! 😍 merry Christmas!
We all could use one! Did you enter the HMC lottery for one Andrea? Merry Christmas to you too! Take care, Bill
I’d be curious of your take on Ball watches and Horage
Love the looks of Ball watches-Trainmaster, and Horage has been doing some interesting things with external regulators. Still warming up to Horage, Amgc. Take care, Bill
Ball are super cool watches. Their springlock system is very interesting.
One small correction, Bill: the Chopard LUC XPS Twist QF that you listed is not in steel but in white gold. Also, in case anyone is wondering whether Chopard uses unplated “grey” white gold, their American representative confirmed to me that they use rhodium-plated white gold (which I find very unfortunate).
dont know much about plating but surely its not the real thing and it sucks when they wont tell us
You are correct,David-thanks for catching that. The QF is indeed white gold! Take care, Bill
Great information Bill. Merry Christmas
Hey William, my pleasure and Merry Christmas! Take care, Bill
please explain about silicon hairsprings
Hey Lakes, we'll be discussing them in tomorrow morning's live stream at 8am NY time ... here are a couple of videos I did on them. Here're some links to why- ua-cam.com/video/sdTSYNNlBJ8/v-deo.html. and ua-cam.com/video/px61TXK1R4k/v-deo.html Take care, Bill
I’m relatively new to watch collecting so I asked chat got what’s the best watch for finishing and movement under 10000 and grand seiko and jlc was the the answer and after further research myself this was very true
I get along well with robots, Freddy, but don't trust AI to much when it comes to watch collection. Take care, Bill
whats the reason that you dont like silicon hairspring? thanks!
Hi James-pretty much for the same reason that the Geneva Seal Foundation doesn't like them. Here're some links to why- ua-cam.com/video/sdTSYNNlBJ8/v-deo.html. and ua-cam.com/video/px61TXK1R4k/v-deo.html Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci Thank you so much Bill. Let me take a look.
Hey Bill, I have the exact same Habring Erwin and recently added a Jürgensen 1140 Brown Limited Edition with the P4 movement to my collection...You know I'm a sucker for Breguet numerals...just mentioning it since I don’t have anyone else to talk watches with!... They go well together, and I’m sure there’s no silicon inside either! :) all the best!
Hey MB, it's great to hear! The complication in the Erwin is simple beauty! MY UJ is just magnificent as you well know! Take care, Bill
The Geophysic dials are truly beautiful. I have recently become a Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Green owner. Love everything about the watch and strap but the OEM butterfly deployant clasp is an embarrassment to both the brand and Richemont. One of the primary purposes of a deployant clasp is to eliminate the possibility of the watch falling off the wrist and dropping to a hard surface floor shocking the watch or the crystal. But for the fact that we have thick carpeting, my Reverso would have been a goner as the butterfly deployant clasp separates from the pinholes in the strap. I have an alligator pin and buckle strap from Delugs in transit to remediate the situation. A luxury Reverso deserves a better deployant.
Love that Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Green, Howard! Great watch, and hats off to Shag Rugs! Take care, Bill
@ A Merry Christmas to you and your family in Connecticut!
@@HowardMeyers-m8g And to you and yours in Arizona-may you have an Arizona Highways Christmas!
Bill where did you get your Moser sweater??
I entered the H. Moser raffle for it and won it, JLR! Take care, Bill
Great video. Thanks. And love the Moser sweater. 👍
Thanks DP! My pleasure, and my HMC jumper (as the Brits say) and my horological Christmas sweater! Take care, Bill
Patek, Vacheron Constantin , Audemars Peugeot …..why bother with anything else. Nice content Bill. Keeping me on my toes ……
Silicon hair springs agree but like Electric Cars. It’s going to happen and take over eventually 😊
Tim, Mechanical watches were can alternative to the much better quartz watches. Silicon is a short-cut junk solution. I'll have nothing to do with a PP after 2009. Take care, Bill
I missed it. What's the issue with silicone hair springs? He doesn't recommend them?
Its a personal preference thing. Bill has uploaded a couple videos explaining why he doesnt like them.
Hi Michael, I did some videos on my views - check these out: Here're some links to why- ua-cam.com/video/sdTSYNNlBJ8/v-deo.html. and ua-cam.com/video/px61TXK1R4k/v-deo.html. Take care, Bill
Hermes is an excellent and beautiful watch!
Kakhaber, they also have good prices, especially on the pre-owned market. Take care, Bill
moser and chopard are one of those brands that you dont feel the company is cheaping out on entry-level watches. If the watches are less expensive to produce its gonna have lower prices. the basic steel pioneer and the basic xps, around 10k rrp.
Well said Roubèn! I wholly agree! Take care, Bill
Good video
Hey Frank, thanks for watching! Take care, Bill
good to see you, bill
Hey Kosmar, thanks man! Take care, Bill
The Nomos Zurich is a dual time watch - not a world timer. It only shows the time in 2 locations at any given setting. A true world timer shows 24+ city times simultaneously. The A Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Timezone is similar and is also a dual time watch - not a world timer. Otherwise, great video.
But it has all those cities Adam!? How about that JLC Geophysic? Take care, Bill
I wish that Seiko did not print Presage on the dial. The date window on the Twist Chopard is awful, ruined the look.
We watch nerds as so opinionated , I am the front of the queue.
Great and interesting selection as usual Bill.
You opinionated, Velviaman? Never! Take care, Bill
Don't forget Roger Dubuis
James, absolutely right, but only on the pre-owned market. The new ones are nuts-o expensive and are unreadably skeletonized. Take care, Bill
Sinn has to be high on the list
Once they start manufacturing their own movements, they will be Thelimey... Take care, Bill
Vacheron and Rolex, they do the best!
I've had 3 VCs and sold 2 but no Rolexes at this time. Take care, Bill
Hey Bill, I’m sure have discussed your disgust for silicon hair springs. I must have missed it. I know some of your knowledge of vintage time pieces. I guess my question is, are you just stuck a bit in the history of the craft of watch making?
Not at all, Marty. If I wanted metalloids in my watches made of transitional metals, I would have bought quartz watches or smart watches ... they're loaded with silicon. Also, I like having swan neck, and AgenPit regulators that actually work ... silicon is too brittle... it'll break if you try and adjust a hairspring made of that crap. If you think it's 'progress'-only for a cheap and inexpensive way by certain manufacturers to make an extra buck; then knock yourself out. Take care, Bill
Has anyone ever asked you to dress up as Santa Claus foe Christmas?
Hey Gus ... no, but for some reason Santa often likes to dress like me! Merry Christmas. Take care, Bill
I just subscribed to your channel and this is the video that won me over. I love your take on watches.
Please, allow me to ask a favor... How about a wrist check? I'm sure I'm not the only one curious.
Okay, I'll try and remember Emjay. Take care, Bill