Another great video! Back in the day, I was told we had to "seat" the pads, but guessing this is the same thing? Cheers from Fraser Valley. Happy holidays!
Lol....you and your Vette! We can talk about getting it into the shop next time we're hanging out. Yet another video without a wrench....lol. Thanks for the watch!
Great video, very well explained. If you buy decent brake pads they often have variations of this advice on the box somewhere. Proper lubrication of brake hardware is also important for avoiding uneven wear.
Thanks! I do try to make the best videos I can so I appreciate the comment! Yes proper set up and lube is crucial for a good brake job. I have everything now up for drum brakes but I still need to make a good disk brake replacement video. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel!
Thanks, glad you liked the video and my teaching style! If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Cheers!
I changed the rear disc brake pads and rear rotor/drum on my 2006 V6 4runner. The right side went smooth and I did not have to change the brake shoes which are in good shape having been changed once. On the driver's side I cannot get the new disc/drum to seat all the way on. It is getting stuck about an inch or two out. I tried tapping it on but there is a lot of resistance. I did wind the adjuster all the way down. My next move is changing all the parts on this sides service brake as on the springs etcetera. I am going to reuse the shoes which are aftermarket but again, fit fine on the passenger side. Any advice would be helpful.
Really hard to diagnose by message... Double check new parts are the same as car parts stores like to give you the wrong stuff. I even had the wrong parts given in the correct box. Confirm with the other working side for proper orientation and correct parts. If you haven't already watched my how to replace drum brakes video I would do that too. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Yes you still want to bed in your ceramic brakes and transfer material over to the disks but I would recommend doing the slower method. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Just depends on how quickly you want the best brakes available. If you can wait 300-400 km then just drive it as normal. If you want it now, then use the quick method but watch that you follow the instructions correctly or you'll have a chance of warping your rotors. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Cheers!
Nice video! I was looking through ome rotor and brake companies and i saw r1 concepts and on their page it stated "to break in brake with 400-500 miles of driving" i was thinking there had to be a faster way. And then i was just scrolling through and saw this video. When i change my brakes and rotors ill do this! Also do you recommend changing front and rear at the same time? My car is fwd so obviously changing the front but the rear isnt too bad.
Thanks! Yeah you can just leave them and they will be good in that many miles, it just takes longer. I would just do the fronts if the rear still has life. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Is bedding in new brake pads to slightly used rotors necessary or even recommended? I just changed my rotors last year, so I didn't want to spend another $100+. For some reason, the rear brake pads were nearly worn completely down in less than 20k miles. (I have no idea how many km that is. I just know it's more.)
Bedding would be done with new pads and scuffed/machined rotors. Whenever the rotor surface doesn't have friction material transferred to the bare metal. My bet is you brake pads were a cheaper brand that are known to wear faster. Sometimes shops buy really cheap sets for their really cheap brake pad replacement specials and they don't last as long. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench I changed all the brakes with powerstop brakes bought from rock auto last March. That's a fairly reputable brand right? But yesterday, I threw Napa pads on the rears and did the bed in process to get the new brake pad material on the rotors. I didn't machine the rotors because, as I mentioned, there were only about 15k to 20k miles on them and they still felt fairly smooth when rubbing my nail over them. Was that a bad idea? Do I still have time to machine the rotors and do the bed in process with the napa pads I just put on? Or should I just leave it alone?
You should have at least scuffed the old rotors with sand paper in a radial fashion but if you already have them on, then i would just leave them. The old rotors will have friction material on them but sometimes you can have issues with new pads and old rotors( if there was an issue with them). If you are not experiencing any issues, I would just leave it. hope that helps. Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench yeah, I didn't have any issues with the rotors, at least there was no pulsing or vibrations when braking. It was just that the rear pads were worn with less than 20k miles. I guess I'll just wait to see what my daughter tells me after she drives on them for a while. Hopefully I can get at least another 15k miles out of them. Thanks for getting back to me though.
Just a side note. If you still have early wear on a decent brand of pads, you might have some issue with the brakes still being on a little bit. This would cause rapid wear, loss in fuel mileage, and possibly a metallic smell. This can be from a pinched brake line/collapsed flex line, misadjusted brake pedal linkage, failed proportioning valve/combination valve, riding the brake pedal/floor mat causing pedal to not return, etc
I did address that in the video. Most manufacturers recommend just driving it normally and over time you will have it happen. Though if you're careful, you can have max braking in minutes with this process in the video. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
It's a good question. If you use too much pressure on the brakes during the short method or hold it for too long, you can overheat your friction material. This usually happens when there is a braking component issue like a seized caliper that never releases the brakes. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel!
I would not do this on a daily driver. You could do more damage than good if you would bed in and fail. Its more chance that you will not do this correct. So my advice, drive it normal with it in mind. On a track car i would bed in and season the discs.
Most people can get away with leaving the brakes to bed in over 400-500 miles of normal braking. All that this procedure does is speed up the process. So if it is done incorrectly, you can screw up your brakes. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
@@wayofthewrench The reason for my advice is that i did it and had to abort it and the result was i warped the discs front. But i liked you video about this😊
Yeah I guess adding the conversion to MPH would have been good, I just figured every car has both on their speedometer. Thanks for the conversion and the watch! Cheers!
Another great video! Back in the day, I was told we had to "seat" the pads, but guessing this is the same thing? Cheers from Fraser Valley. Happy holidays!
You're very welcome and yes, it's the same thing! Happy holidays to you too! Cool, where abouts in the Valley? Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench Chilliwack, Did not realize you are in the Lower mainland,lol. Where's your shop located? Cheers
Sweet! We're in Delta. Happy new year!
I'll be doing this after getting my brake fluid bled this spring on my pickup project. I can't wait!
Awesome! Glad this will help ya out. What's your pickup? Thanks for the watch!
First time caller, long time listener. Wanted to say great video and keep it up! Every do anything to a 79 vette? Would be really cool if you did.
Lol....you and your Vette! We can talk about getting it into the shop next time we're hanging out. Yet another video without a wrench....lol. Thanks for the watch!
Great video, very well explained. If you buy decent brake pads they often have variations of this advice on the box somewhere. Proper lubrication of brake hardware is also important for avoiding uneven wear.
Thanks! I do try to make the best videos I can so I appreciate the comment! Yes proper set up and lube is crucial for a good brake job. I have everything now up for drum brakes but I still need to make a good disk brake replacement video. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel!
Cool. Caveman Aided Drawing. Great explanation!
Thanks, glad you liked the video and my teaching style! If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Cheers!
I changed the rear disc brake pads and rear rotor/drum on my 2006 V6 4runner. The right side went smooth and I did not have to change the brake shoes which are in good shape having been changed once. On the driver's side I cannot get the new disc/drum to seat all the way on. It is getting stuck about an inch or two out. I tried tapping it on but there is a lot of resistance. I did wind the adjuster all the way down. My next move is changing all the parts on this sides service brake as on the springs etcetera. I am going to reuse the shoes which are aftermarket but again, fit fine on the passenger side. Any advice would be helpful.
Really hard to diagnose by message... Double check new parts are the same as car parts stores like to give you the wrong stuff. I even had the wrong parts given in the correct box. Confirm with the other working side for proper orientation and correct parts. If you haven't already watched my how to replace drum brakes video I would do that too. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Does this matter for ceramics? Like.. honest question, how much of that material is gonna change in shape?
Yes you still want to bed in your ceramic brakes and transfer material over to the disks but I would recommend doing the slower method. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Which method is better and recommended? Thanks for your help
Just depends on how quickly you want the best brakes available. If you can wait 300-400 km then just drive it as normal. If you want it now, then use the quick method but watch that you follow the instructions correctly or you'll have a chance of warping your rotors. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Cheers!
@wayofthewrench LOL, 300 - 400 km!! I didn't see you mentioned that in the quick method to drive that long. Thanks
Yeah, a lot of new vehicle manufacturers recommend just driving it. Happy new year!
@@wayofthewrench happy new year to you too, keep the wrench spinning 👍
Will do. Cheers!
Nice video! I was looking through ome rotor and brake companies and i saw r1 concepts and on their page it stated "to break in brake with 400-500 miles of driving" i was thinking there had to be a faster way. And then i was just scrolling through and saw this video. When i change my brakes and rotors ill do this! Also do you recommend changing front and rear at the same time? My car is fwd so obviously changing the front but the rear isnt too bad.
Thanks! Yeah you can just leave them and they will be good in that many miles, it just takes longer. I would just do the fronts if the rear still has life. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Is bedding in new brake pads to slightly used rotors necessary or even recommended? I just changed my rotors last year, so I didn't want to spend another $100+. For some reason, the rear brake pads were nearly worn completely down in less than 20k miles. (I have no idea how many km that is. I just know it's more.)
Bedding would be done with new pads and scuffed/machined rotors. Whenever the rotor surface doesn't have friction material transferred to the bare metal. My bet is you brake pads were a cheaper brand that are known to wear faster. Sometimes shops buy really cheap sets for their really cheap brake pad replacement specials and they don't last as long. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel! Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench I changed all the brakes with powerstop brakes bought from rock auto last March. That's a fairly reputable brand right?
But yesterday, I threw Napa pads on the rears and did the bed in process to get the new brake pad material on the rotors. I didn't machine the rotors because, as I mentioned, there were only about 15k to 20k miles on them and they still felt fairly smooth when rubbing my nail over them. Was that a bad idea?
Do I still have time to machine the rotors and do the bed in process with the napa pads I just put on?
Or should I just leave it alone?
You should have at least scuffed the old rotors with sand paper in a radial fashion but if you already have them on, then i would just leave them. The old rotors will have friction material on them but sometimes you can have issues with new pads and old rotors( if there was an issue with them). If you are not experiencing any issues, I would just leave it. hope that helps. Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench yeah, I didn't have any issues with the rotors, at least there was no pulsing or vibrations when braking. It was just that the rear pads were worn with less than 20k miles. I guess I'll just wait to see what my daughter tells me after she drives on them for a while. Hopefully I can get at least another 15k miles out of them. Thanks for getting back to me though.
Just a side note. If you still have early wear on a decent brand of pads, you might have some issue with the brakes still being on a little bit. This would cause rapid wear, loss in fuel mileage, and possibly a metallic smell. This can be from a pinched brake line/collapsed flex line, misadjusted brake pedal linkage, failed proportioning valve/combination valve, riding the brake pedal/floor mat causing pedal to not return, etc
The best thing to do with new components is to brake normally i would even say this would more likely glaze the rotors then bed in the pads
I did address that in the video. Most manufacturers recommend just driving it normally and over time you will have it happen. Though if you're careful, you can have max braking in minutes with this process in the video. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
Isnt this a great way to glaze your break shoes and ruin your breaking power? Serious question
It's a good question. If you use too much pressure on the brakes during the short method or hold it for too long, you can overheat your friction material. This usually happens when there is a braking component issue like a seized caliper that never releases the brakes. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel!
I would not do this on a daily driver. You could do more damage than good if you would bed in and fail. Its more chance that you will not do this correct. So my advice, drive it normal with it in mind. On a track car i would bed in and season the discs.
Most people can get away with leaving the brakes to bed in over 400-500 miles of normal braking. All that this procedure does is speed up the process. So if it is done incorrectly, you can screw up your brakes. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
@@wayofthewrench The reason for my advice is that i did it and had to abort it and the result was i warped the discs front. But i liked you video about this😊
@@wayofthewrenchDid you mean to say can't instead of can.?
About 7 minutes of video for 52 seconds of actual procedure
You should watch my 30-40 minute videos and see how much learning/experience I pack into those! Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!
37. 282 MPH = 60 km/h ….⛽️🛞
Yeah I guess adding the conversion to MPH would have been good, I just figured every car has both on their speedometer. Thanks for the conversion and the watch! Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench once i heard km/h I was like ahhh he's canadian haha