I recently completed the replacement of the ABS actuator in my 2008 Prius using this video as a guide. It was a tough project for me, since my car repair experience is pretty minimal, but I was able to do it successfully, and relatively quickly, thanks to you. I really appreciate all the work you did to create this guide. You saved me a ton of money.
@@SkullEnvy I’m pretty sure everything was 10mm (and maybe one or two 12mm ones) but I’m pretty sure he says in the video. Definitely need an extension for your ratchet to reach some of them.
I was quoted $1760 for the part and $480 labor plus $15 brake fluid. 2009 Prius. Found the part on eBay for $200. I see I just can’t take the car to anybody and this video is outstandingly informative. Well done. Thank you.
Hi, your $200 part was used i take it? hows it running now? my car has 200,000 miles and im trying to decide if i should go used, reman/refurb, or new. thx!
Thanks man for posting this great video. The dealer wanted $3,500 for the job on my 2007 Prius, which is probably worth that much as a whole. I did the job myself and saved a ton of money. Also, I followed your other video on bleeding the ABS and brakes without scan tool and it worked flawlessly. The car is back on the road and runs great! Thanks a ton!
You are so amazing. The way you assume people know absolutely nothing (because a huge amount of us including me do not) is so refreshing and incredible. And the cameraman zooming in on things just so everything is CRYSTAL CLEARRR. We are grateful for you guys!
@ Mr. Electric, This is by far one of the best DIY car repair videos I has watched. You did a great job and I plan to do this repair on my 2006 Prius. Thx again
Thank you so much for sharing this video and this is really helpful. Especially the bleeding process for the brake. The ABS module was so hard to take out and it took 3 of us 3 hours to complete the change work. Here is something that i want to share so if anyone sees your videos i hope they can find this helpful. After replacing the ABS actuator, the dash still shows VSC ABS lights, at first i thought the replacement part was bad (i bought the used one on EBAY), then after i finished the bleeding process and use the paper clip OBD trick, the 3 dash lights go off magically. I hope everyone finds it helpful and thank you again for sharing this video.
This video and one other saved me over 2000$ and like you mentioned, it saved a Prius. My local dealers gave 2 quotes, one for 4000$ and one for $3300. I did the job myself, paid 1200 for the part coolant, and dot3. Thanks a ton. Honestly wasn’t that hard of a job either.
I appreciate you for making this video. For others who are looking to do this, just know there’s about 5 extra parts to remove from the hybrid engine than he shows, and another 5 items to remove off the actuator than show. Make sure to mark which nut goes where, and not to drop any or you’ll have about an extra 2 hours of work finding them. Best of luck
Hi Mr Electric. I would like to say a big thank for your video. I did it yesterday with a use part. It looks like it's working for the moment. Take me around 6hours with brake and freezing liquid bleeding. Thanks again! Very appreciate your help!
Great video. Used this video and others from two other guys. Each one had different take on removal/replacement and I was able to repair my 2009 Prius with over 200K miles. Bought refurbed ABS pump on ebay for $260.
@greengearhead1153 hey boss mine went out on my 14. Do I need to replace the master cylinder like they do at the dealership? I don't want to replace it if not needed.
Our 2006 Prius was towed to our Toyota dealership yesterday with the exact codes and they called today with a $2700.00 replacement of the ABS actuator assembly. Your well done video was very helpful and appreciated, thank you. Looks like the quote was in line with your comments. Understanding the scope of this work is huge considering the $$$ involved. Great job thank you! Only 73k miles on the damned Prius, now known as the "bitch".
LMAO!!! I just got the bad news that this has gone bad on our Prius! I’m selling the bitch because it has 155k miles and I don’t want to dump that much $ into it with fears of something else failing. I’d like to take a sledge hammer to it is what I’d really like to do!
Thanks for your help I was able to complete my actuator replacement on my 06 Prius, I purchased a one month old actuator from eBay for $700 out the door and I ended up doing the paper clip reset so far it's running normal again after I bled them brakes all the way around, I started at 3:30 p.m. and ended about 10:30 I just took it slow cleaned up all the parts went well thank you again
@@hamahawta No all along it was just making the clock sound just under the hood and some clicking sounds back by the rear brakes every 5 seconds it would last about 5 seconds, But the high pitch beep came on when I was bleeding the brakes with the new actuator, I just continue to bleed them Kind of like a traditional way of bleeding, Then I needed to use the paper clip trick to clear the lights and that also reset the new actuator, You have to do this a few times to get a good bleeding but so far I'm driving for the last 200 miles and everything runs perfectly
Augustus Barone Augustus Barone 1 week ago Great Video, Mr Electric. Also Thanks for explaining the physical process to carry out the job. It adds value to the actual work performed .
This video is up there with the best of the best. I'm not finished watching it yet, so having said that we'll now watch it deteriorate into total garbage. Are you with me? Let's do it.
Thanks again for the informative and easy to under video . Got it done 2 days . About 4 hours each day . Day 1 uninstall bad part . Day 2 put new part in and bleed brake . Went with new part . Way too much labor for used part . Thanks again !!
Dude thanks for showing us how to do this job. My ABS started failing a couple of weeks after I bought the Prius for $3200. The seller probably noticed it failing (or maybe not) but the car was cheap regardless,
You are lucky, my 2008 prius was $7000 and making this noise. I can't do this on my own and can't afford to have someone do it. What in the world am I going to do? I also have a horn type noise while back up. I think it's the brakes. Oh well.
I hope I can find your brake bleeding video! Also, it would be nice to have a video on how you removed the cowl. I have 2 other videos on that so I don't need it but it would have been nice. Great information on safety! That is the most important part!
Thank you for a great video. Learned a lot about the abs actuator. I noticed your comment about not needing to bleed the brakes. I was wondering if you did a video on it and showed the steps? Thanks.
This video is so satisfying to watch. I just bought my 2008 Prius 3 weeks ago. What a surprise when I was driving around thinking "wtf is that NOISE" HAHA guess I got took.. I need this done because that noise is DRIVING ME NUTS. My vehicle is not displaying any error codes though. I was quoted $1800 Houston TX
Still got it? A lot of people get taken for a ride when gen 2 prius shopping over this part. I test drove 5 prius' that were being sold pretty cheap that all had this issue. Finally found a good deal on one that didn't. Replace and bleed out your brake fluid every 5 years or so and it should help stop this part from going bad.
I'm a technician and I just bought an 07 Prius and this keeps me up at night just thinking about this issue, I don't have it but it was stressing me out that I could. I went on AllData and it quotes 4 hours. After watching your video I realized how simple the job actually is (I know its still 4 hours) But you just made me confident in keeping the car. No more worrying. Thanks a lot for this video. I'm gonna download it in case you ever delete it cause it's really useful. Btw I have an Autel bi-directional scan tool, so bleeding shouldn't be an issue either. Good stuff man.
Hey, I DO have the failure and was about to junk my 2007 with 145,000 miles because of the $3500 repair estimate from Toyota. You and the reply to Sam Bowler (below) have given me cause to believe it's not hopeless.
@@MrTespro Yeah now I'm realizing how silly of me it was to be so afraid of this process, as I've done many on other vehicles. The worst part is the labor involved and having to also purchase the hybrid electric specialized gloves. I saw your other comment and if it were me having the failure I'd take the chances of getting a used module, because the chances of it failing again are already pretty low. You could buy 6 before you reach the price of the dealer part, and I think that's majorly worth it. AS LONG as you have the software, and 5 hours of your time, the mpg and the versatility of the car is well worth it.
Just did this on my 2007 gen 2 prius because I was having issues with the red break light, (!), VCS. Changing ABS actuator helped solve the issue thank you! This was done like on march 29. As of April 18 can confirm the issue has not comeback! Hoping to keep you guys updated!
@@elscanoe no but it worked fine! I eventually had an issue with my coolant pump not sure if it was due to me missplacing something while taking everything apart but eventually fixed that too. Just be very careful when taking things apart. As of right now my car is working good!
Thank you bro life saver my car just break down after being driving it for 3 days with red light abs piping I’m not taking it to the dealership for sure 👌
Everyone asking about bleeding, I can attest to Mr Electrics statement that brake bleeding is NOT essentional when replacing actuator. Did one today and tried without bleeding and as he said it surprisingly worked! Just fill your reservoir all the way, keep cap off and push pedal multiple times until it starts to harden up check fluid level and your golden
@@hedgehogthesonic3181 Hey there! Yes I did, first I did it without bleeding and did the bleeding procedure after a couple days using my buddy snap on scanner.
@@jambaplays8119 Nice, good to know, i'm about to replace the actuator on my 2012 Prius C. May i ask you what the torque spec of the brake lines, if there is any? and the one of the orange wires that go to the inverter / converter?
after a rusted brake line repair, I was not able to bleed the left rear, kept getting this ABS actuator fault after a short drive. tried multiple methods, the one that worked was the MityVac brake suction tool at the bleeder. FYI to all.
You need a bigger channel sir. You talk well, Know a lot for a specific car such as prius. Please make more videos for anything car related. Subscribed
I randomly woke up like 4weeks after watching this video singing the song at 5:40.... What on earth is that? It took me like 2 weeks to remember where I heard it.. this video lol
Great video! Loved how you explained every process and made it understandable for us all. And your care and caution for the safety aspect of it... very nice to see the care that you displayed. I'm watching this video because I think that I'm having the same issue with my 2007 Prius. My son was driving and the brakes just "went out" on him. He was actually able to maneuver the car home without incident, but we are not willing to drive it around to "test" it out because of that. I just wanted your opinion on that to see if that does sound like it is the actuator that needs to be replaced. Also, can you give me an estimate on the part and what to expect as far as the cost of labor for this repair? Thank you very much.
checking logged codes will tell you if it is the actuator. It could be the skid control ecu which would be much easier and less expensive to replace than the actuator.
Hell, yeah brother! About to do one of those for myself, for the first time! Great job at really laying out the step-by-step procedure. Definitely not something you want to take shortcuts on! Thanks for the great video, I subscribed and can't wait to check out more content, Rock on brother!
Very safe, professional way to start your repair, tells a lot about the quality of your jobs. I kind a have similar problem, I have a Prius 2012, the abs, brake and stability lights are on, the code I see is C-1391, a friend of mine working in Midas said is the actuator having a leak, the sound it does my car, is not consistent as the one you fixed, but when the lights are on (abs, brake, stability), the sound is repetitive every 9 seconds more or less, when pushing the brakes feels a little lose, but surprisingly the lights goes off by itself and the brakes works as normal, this symptom is coming and going, do you recommend to replace the accumulator? or start checking something else first, I will really appreciate your advice.
This video looks like it will save me a lot of money @MrElectric. I was just wondering if you could list out all of the parts you need to complete this change, like all the different socket sizes and stuff? Thanks!!!
This was a great tutorial. Gonna attempt to replace mine w my little brother. Looks easy enough. I do have a question though. If it starts to drain the battery, which mine is doing. Sometimes the battery just dies when I park it, it won’t turn on now. Does the hybrid battery or the battery in front need to be replaced usually?
I assembled everything up to the inverter, and attempted to turn on the car to see if everything was alright. However, now the check engine, Triangle, (!), ABS VSC and Brake lights are on and the car will not turn on. I am not sure if the new actuator is defective or if I messed up. What can I check for and in what order should I go? Also, the brake does not have resistance at all as if the actuator did not send any pressure, but I can hear it buzzing when I pass by the car. I want to put the old one back, but I am going to wait for any advice I can get.
Is the orange service connector clicked down to in secondary locked position( not just rocked into position but second lock of lever ) Is inverter cover on and connecting small safety prongs?
@@Mrelectric423 Hi, I figured it out, it was a small connector on the inverter. Thanks a lot, your video was the most concise/well put together. If I did not stumble upon it, I would have been out 1.5 grand. Thanks a lot and keep being awesome.
9:40 ish… You pulled of those cables on the inverter like it was nothing…as if it’d already been removed before…neither of them coming out so easy for me. So I should just apply extra force? I can’t tell if there’s a tab situation I’m missing that I should be aware of
Oh I see On mine at least there are two additional 10mm bolts to remove the most annoying being the one on the right of the bottom right cable.actually just fine with an extension, but the cable itself has small clips to push in on either side. A bit overkill IMO
Also many other connectors, each with their own way of being removed…annoying! But thankful for this video for showing the path. lots of "bobs your uncle" moments...even though many details that are unfamiliar to me that are taking a ton of time, like threading those @(*$@# lines, how to maneuver this thing back in, remounting the piece...
WOW! Please never stop your way of properly posting R&R videos! Now that I have your attention. lol 07 Prius, DTC Code (ABS flash code) is 45. I have the same sound but intermittently. 3 things I've noticed: 1) Apply brakes, it stops. 2) Rotate the Passenger-Right tire, it stops. 3) From the main battery compartment area and when the "shuttering sound" stops I can hear what sounds like fluid circulating near that right-rear quarter panel area. Maybe an ABS valve or something stuck open? Any suggestions/vids would be MUCH appreciated.
Thank you so much. This was a lift saver. Your other videos are helpful also. But this one is AWESOME!!!!!!! and I only watched 1/2 . But I would like to know where the brake lines where when you did take out the ABS.
I appreciate your time in making these very informative videos. I recently replaced the ABS Actuator on a 2008 RX 400H (so much easier than the Prius) and the brakes worked perfectly after replacing it. I did not need to bleed the brakes at all and all the ABS warning lights went away. If all is working well is there a need to deal with Techstream? Do you know of any issues that may arise if I do not do anything else? Thank you for your time!
excellent video.I like your safety mesures. I have a Prius 2005. I avoided a car accident and ran the left side wheel into a deep pot hole. end up with 3 lights A) red brake B) ABS yellow C) VSC yellow... lost partial almost no brakes but no HYD leak. and lost the inner brake pad and caliper piston kick out of its assembly on the left side. I change the left caliper & bracket and ,rotor on both side and brake pads on both side. attempt a reset theses msgs with the paper clip trick on u tube on the osb panel but could not do it. Now the right caliper seems to grab the rotor as well and right wheel temperature on the rotor is much higher than the left side it's fell like caliper stuck.but not sure if it is identical to the left side problem. Do you think it maybe the caliper or air stuck in the HYD line I bleds both side but not the rear brakes.Could it be the ABS fail light that cause this or the accumulator that does not work because msgs are not reset. Thanks for your feedback. Répondre
@@Mrelectric423 here something interesting. after many attempts to reset the faulty lights, I bled the rear brakes. Still no success even after disconnecting the auxiliary battery twice and repeating the paperclip procedure on the OBS. Then I read something about Toyota's steer wheel realignment procedure on the car that it needs to be on level ground for this procedure. My attempt procedure was always in my driveway at a 5 degree drop. I decided to repeat this paper clip procedure on flat ground and guess what. Immediately, all the lights went out. Smart car. Hey thanks again for your quick response.
was that arcing happening when you removed the last clip from the inverter.. right around the 10:30 mark when you realized you had one last clip and the camera got in close
Any thoughts on how to minimize spills of brake fluid and inverter coolant? You've inspired me to try to save my '05 Prius with 220K miles on it, just don't want to make too much of a mess!
Hi, great video! Thanks. I wanted to know if the ABS actuator is reprogrammable? Does it need to be reprogrammed by a dealer if you buy a used one and stick it into your car as a replacement?
Mr. Electric, this is an awesome vid. Thank you. I'm about to undertake this job to save my '07 prius, but am not feeling super confident about the brake bleeding. Curious if you were planning on posting a follow up vid on how to do that. Again, thank you!
Can this procedure be accomplished without Techstream? If so, what set up would you recommend? I have a 2013 prius with the dreaded ABS issue, dealership quote >$4k, $1,900 in parts alone... Having a go with used parts from either eBay are my local junkyard and a new scantool seems like a solid option before paying the dealer more than half of what the car is worth!
I appreciate the great visuals and also removal process being so clear. *How do I tell if the problem is break boosters or break actuator?* I'm looking at a Prius 2002, and know it's a little different, but not much. And roughly, how long did it take you as an expert to do this project (or if you're a DIY repairperson)?
I have little experience with gen 1 Prius but the general consensus is to move towards a gen 2 or newer when possible. I believe several areas were drastically improved in gen 2 up. If you already own the car I would start by researching the codes logged and paying attention to experts on Prius chat. I worked at the Toyota dealership then an independent shop and now more as a hobbyist for the past 20 years. That said there is a lot to learn and I avoid trying to say I know the cars well.
Thanks for the video! I'm planning on replacing this part in our Prius and I think that this video will help a great bit. I do have one question, do you know what the torque specifications are for all the bolts/nuts/brake lines that get removed during this replacement? Thanks, Ezra
Ezra Aderhold I do not know the torque specs. There is not a torque wrench for brake lines that I have seen but a torque value is given for bracket bolts and other fasteners.
@@EzraAderholdDG Do you know if the bleeding process is imperative? In the past, for boosters, typically taping the lines would not allow enough air to get in.
@@pinpon163 I don't know if it is imperative, we did bleed ours though. On techstream the bleeding procedure says "perform this after changing the brake actuator" or something close to that. I would lean towards thinking it is probably a good idea to do it.
Hi great video. Sorry to bother you but i have a 2006 Prius and the ABS warning light is on. I am still driving the car. If the Actuator totally fails will the brakes stop working ?
Thanks for the video, it helped my navigate this job. But if your car is rusty from up north, just do yourself a favor and burn the car before doing this job removing the brake lines from that aluminum block is not nice especially if you bust off any lines. Turns this into a 12 hr job
Hi, thanks for your video, at your scanner show 2 code c1256 and c1391 same happens to my car. My question change abs unit only or I have change brake booster as well for fixing 2 code? Thanks
I love my Prius and it has been cared for then suddenly the ABS light and Brake light VSC as well. Didn't have any braking issues or noises. The dealer quoted me 3000. It has 201900 miles runs perfect but lost what to do bc of high mile and worried more shit will go bad
Dear Mr. Electric, I enjoyed your video and learned a lot from it and others you have done. I have a 2008 highlander hybrid which has recently developed a noise coming form what I believe is the ABS actuator. It happens when I depress the brake pedal hard in park. The sound is a gurgling sound or muffled squeak. My wife says it sounds like there are mice in the engine bay. There are no ABS lights or any check engine lights on. Can you help with diagnosis? or any ideas. Thank you
I would let it go for a while , see if the light comes on. That does sound like an aging abs unit since the noise comes in concert with brake actuation
Hello, does your procedure for bleeding the brakes without a scan tool work for a bleed after replacing the brake actuator, or just jobs at the wheels like calipers? Would a snap on scan tool work or only a tech stream?
The non scan tool method has worked for me, in fact I have even tried not bleeding at all after actuator replacement and somehow the brakes have worked fine. I do not know why or how this works. All that said the snap on will work well to do bleeding procedure.
Thank you. Is there any danger of damaging the abs pump by running it dry while it primes or not really? Will it pull fluid through fast enough during the bleed to not make a difference?
Always looking for a great mechanical video. GREAT VIDEO! Have you ever heard of old brake fluid causing abs actuator issues? Just a show it the dark but my brake fluid on my 07 is definitely old.
My brake fluid was old. For 2 days in a row, when I pressed on the brake pedal to start the car, I heard two noises, and the brake pedal dropped about 1/2 inch. On the 2nd day, the ABS light turned on, and Brake turned on with the triangle. I could not start the car. I suspect the problem may have been triggered due to my very old 12v AGM battery. I also thought it could be due to old brake fluid in the lines and/or oxygen in the brake line. I decided to replace and bleed the old brake fluid. I also charged up the 12v battery. After doing this, no brake problems. I am considering replacing the 12v battery.
@@jonathangodfrey2210 it’s usually one of the two safety interlocks when it won’t start afterwards. One is the orange service connector not clicked down probably ( needs a second click) two is the service connector on the inverter cover gets bent pins. A third is just some harness plug somewhere left unplugged.
What do you think of the likelihood that an actuator from a wrecked Prius of the same gen would work - thus saving a big expense for the module? Or is the original module a risky part to begin with?
i replaced the actuator and the lights went away. i bled the brakes and only the front passenger side bleeding had the pump turn on while bleeding with the most bubbles coming out of it. the other wheels didnt have the pump turn on for more than a second but also had a tiny bit of air come out, but extremely little. not too much. there must be more? i'm sure there's more air. the three dashboard lights for abs turned back on and i can't brake very well again. any clue as to what this could be?
Hi thank you so much for this incredible video. Can I ask you, if my my brake like is completely empty due to a caliper failure. Do you think it will refill just by pumping the pedal and bleeding the caliper, or by pumping fluid from the caliper, up to the master cylinder?
Eventually your brakes will completely fail. The brake system builds up air pressure and it leaks causing this issue. That's why you hear it running. When the leak gets bad enough the pump won't be able to keep up with the leaking air. At that point you will no longer have any power to the brakes.
a failed ABS on any other car works ok, but on a Prius you may have regen issues because it works with the brakes. eventually your EV battery will not fully charge. keep an eye out for it.
I recently completed the replacement of the ABS actuator in my 2008 Prius using this video as a guide. It was a tough project for me, since my car repair experience is pretty minimal, but I was able to do it successfully, and relatively quickly, thanks to you. I really appreciate all the work you did to create this guide. You saved me a ton of money.
Thank you for helping to keep DIY auto repair alive.
Where’d you get your replacement accumulator? I have to do on this on my ‘09 gen ii now!
@@Iglooter I bought it online at a store called benzeen auto parts.
@@asymptoticspatula can you tell me what sockets and stuff to buy? i know nothing about tools 😅
@@SkullEnvy I’m pretty sure everything was 10mm (and maybe one or two 12mm ones) but I’m pretty sure he says in the video. Definitely need an extension for your ratchet to reach some of them.
Your diction and proper language makes you so much more enjoyable to watch over other UA-cam channels. Freaking awesome!
I was quoted $1760 for the part and $480 labor plus $15 brake fluid. 2009 Prius. Found the part on eBay for $200. I see I just can’t take the car to anybody and this video is outstandingly informative. Well done. Thank you.
Hi, your $200 part was used i take it? hows it running now? my car has 200,000 miles and im trying to decide if i should go used, reman/refurb, or new. thx!
Do you have some news about the part from eBay? Is it still working?
Fixed my ABS Actuator because of this guy! Saved me a ton of money! THANK YOU.
Bro where’d you get the ABS ACTUATOR AT? About how much you pay for it? ‘
@@alexismelendez3955 I went on Ebay, there were plenty. I would make sure you don’t get another one that is faulty. So beware.
What if I will not fix it next 10000 miles? No dangerous?
Thanks man for posting this great video. The dealer wanted $3,500 for the job on my 2007 Prius, which is probably worth that much as a whole. I did the job myself and saved a ton of money. Also, I followed your other video on bleeding the ABS and brakes without scan tool and it worked flawlessly. The car is back on the road and runs great! Thanks a ton!
You are so amazing. The way you assume people know absolutely nothing (because a huge amount of us including me do not) is so refreshing and incredible. And the cameraman zooming in on things just so everything is CRYSTAL CLEARRR. We are grateful for you guys!
Thank you!
Yeah he is great. He helped me tremendously.
@ Mr. Electric,
This is by far one of the best DIY car repair videos I has watched. You did a great job and I plan to do this repair on my 2006 Prius. Thx again
Thank you so much for sharing this video and this is really helpful. Especially the bleeding process for the brake. The ABS module was so hard to take out and it took 3 of us 3 hours to complete the change work. Here is something that i want to share so if anyone sees your videos i hope they can find this helpful.
After replacing the ABS actuator, the dash still shows VSC ABS lights, at first i thought the replacement part was bad (i bought the used one on EBAY), then after i finished the bleeding process and use the paper clip OBD trick, the 3 dash lights go off magically. I hope everyone finds it helpful and thank you again for sharing this video.
How much did it cost
Blessings bro
This video and one other saved me over 2000$ and like you mentioned, it saved a Prius. My local dealers gave 2 quotes, one for 4000$ and one for $3300. I did the job myself, paid 1200 for the part coolant, and dot3. Thanks a ton. Honestly wasn’t that hard of a job either.
Do you mind linking the other video you're talking about?
Thank you. Very helpful. If this is how the rest of your vids are, you are a very under appreciated channel.
I appreciate you for making this video. For others who are looking to do this, just know there’s about 5 extra parts to remove from the hybrid engine than he shows, and another 5 items to remove off the actuator than show. Make sure to mark which nut goes where, and not to drop any or you’ll have about an extra 2 hours of work finding them. Best of luck
does any other video show this?
Hi Mr Electric. I would like to say a big thank for your video. I did it yesterday with a use part. It looks like it's working for the moment. Take me around 6hours with brake and freezing liquid bleeding.
Thanks again! Very appreciate your help!
Yes the car in the video was long term fixed.Thank you for the positive comment!
Great video. Used this video and others from two other guys. Each one had different take on removal/replacement and I was able to repair my 2009 Prius with over 200K miles. Bought refurbed ABS pump on ebay for $260.
Great to hear the DIY hybrid repair scene is growing one costly, major repair at a time. Good work!
@greengearhead1153 hey boss mine went out on my 14. Do I need to replace the master cylinder like they do at the dealership? I don't want to replace it if not needed.
@@Rhamlin7 no, I did not
@Kyle Galusha Hows it running today? still going strong? the abs i mean
@@travislowrider6623 Still running fine. No brake problems at all.
Our 2006 Prius was towed to our Toyota dealership yesterday with the exact codes and they called today with a $2700.00 replacement of the ABS actuator assembly. Your well done video was very helpful and appreciated, thank you. Looks like the quote was in line with your comments. Understanding the scope of this work is huge considering the $$$ involved. Great job thank you! Only 73k miles on the damned Prius, now known as the "bitch".
LMAO!!! I just got the bad news that this has gone bad on our Prius! I’m selling the bitch because it has 155k miles and I don’t want to dump that much $ into it with fears of something else failing. I’d like to take a sledge hammer to it is what I’d really like to do!
Owesome, very well professionally demonstrated the dismantling and installation of abs pump unit, 💯👍
Spent about 10 hours on this today, connecting the brake lines now. What a pain in the ass but it saves me 500$ Labor
I'm planning to do mine pretty soon. Can you share a few tips ? There seems to be so many damn bolts and connectors to undo.
@@tienluong4729 Its a tough job but doable.
Nice work!
You did it? with no help?
Wow, frugal, beautiful and works on cars herself!? My dream girl lol...
Thanks for your help I was able to complete my actuator replacement on my 06 Prius, I purchased a one month old actuator from eBay for $700 out the door and I ended up doing the paper clip reset so far it's running normal again after I bled them brakes all the way around, I started at 3:30 p.m. and ended about 10:30 I just took it slow cleaned up all the parts went well thank you again
Was your Prius making the high pitch beeping sound before ?
@@hamahawta No all along it was just making the clock sound just under the hood and some clicking sounds back by the rear brakes every 5 seconds it would last about 5 seconds, But the high pitch beep came on when I was bleeding the brakes with the new actuator, I just continue to bleed them Kind of like a traditional way of bleeding, Then I needed to use the paper clip trick to clear the lights and that also reset the new actuator, You have to do this a few times to get a good bleeding but so far I'm driving for the last 200 miles and everything runs perfectly
@@mrvic92154 Thanks! I will change the actuator, and hope this whole beep and click sound stops afterward.
Always nice to watch a pro. Great explanation and focus on safety.
Augustus Barone
Augustus Barone
1 week ago
Great Video, Mr Electric. Also Thanks for explaining the physical process to carry out the job. It adds value to the actual work performed .
First time seeing a guy test a tester......freaking awesome dude....wish I had the tools and the skills as you....good job....
You would be a good teacher! Very clear descriptions. Just changed hybrid battery. May need to do this as lights are on. Will try to reset, then....
Very well done Mr Electric...please upload bleeding procedure.
Found the non-scan tool one here: ua-cam.com/video/FKqxqgL2b4M/v-deo.html
This video is up there with the best of the best. I'm not finished watching it yet, so having said that we'll now watch it deteriorate into total garbage. Are you with me? Let's do it.
Thanks again for the informative and easy to under video . Got it done 2 days . About 4 hours each day . Day 1 uninstall bad part . Day 2 put new part in and bleed brake . Went with new part . Way too much labor for used part . Thanks again !!
Good work! it is a tough job and scary installing a used part with so much labor committed.
Dude thanks for showing us how to do this job. My ABS started failing a couple of weeks after I bought the Prius for $3200. The seller probably noticed it failing (or maybe not) but the car was cheap regardless,
You are lucky, my 2008 prius was $7000 and making this noise. I can't do this on my own and can't afford to have someone do it. What in the world am I going to do? I also have a horn type noise while back up. I think it's the brakes. Oh well.
@@yolanda9730 doing will help get around it for now but you will have to replace it inevitably
ua-cam.com/video/Qc5p1MjImto/v-deo.html
I hope I can find your brake bleeding video! Also, it would be nice to have a video on how you removed the cowl. I have 2 other videos on that so I don't need it but it would have been nice. Great information on safety! That is the most important part!
Very good video Mr electric you are the best thanks for your time
Thank you for a great video. Learned a lot about the abs actuator. I noticed your comment about not needing to bleed the brakes. I was wondering if you did a video on it and showed the steps? Thanks.
This video is so satisfying to watch. I just bought my 2008 Prius 3 weeks ago. What a surprise when I was driving around thinking "wtf is that NOISE" HAHA guess I got took.. I need this done because that noise is DRIVING ME NUTS. My vehicle is not displaying any error codes though. I was quoted $1800 Houston TX
Still got it? A lot of people get taken for a ride when gen 2 prius shopping over this part. I test drove 5 prius' that were being sold pretty cheap that all had this issue. Finally found a good deal on one that didn't. Replace and bleed out your brake fluid every 5 years or so and it should help stop this part from going bad.
Extremely impressive safety measures.
Good morning family and good health to everyone. Thank you very much for the valuable information and for your time. 👍🏼👍🏼
Did you ever post the video how to bleed brakes after brake actuator replacement?
awesome work. love your prudent actions. thank you
I'm a technician and I just bought an 07 Prius and this keeps me up at night just thinking about this issue, I don't have it but it was stressing me out that I could. I went on AllData and it quotes 4 hours. After watching your video I realized how simple the job actually is (I know its still 4 hours) But you just made me confident in keeping the car. No more worrying. Thanks a lot for this video. I'm gonna download it in case you ever delete it cause it's really useful. Btw I have an Autel bi-directional scan tool, so bleeding shouldn't be an issue either. Good stuff man.
Hey, I DO have the failure and was about to junk my 2007 with 145,000 miles because of the $3500 repair estimate from Toyota. You and the reply to Sam Bowler (below) have given me cause to believe it's not hopeless.
@@MrTespro Yeah now I'm realizing how silly of me it was to be so afraid of this process, as I've done many on other vehicles. The worst part is the labor involved and having to also purchase the hybrid electric specialized gloves. I saw your other comment and if it were me having the failure I'd take the chances of getting a used module, because the chances of it failing again are already pretty low. You could buy 6 before you reach the price of the dealer part, and I think that's majorly worth it. AS LONG as you have the software, and 5 hours of your time, the mpg and the versatility of the car is well worth it.
اكو واحد جديد
هل يوجد فديو جديد
@@diegoramirez4844 😊
Just did this on my 2007 gen 2 prius because I was having issues with the red break light, (!), VCS. Changing ABS actuator helped solve the issue thank you! This was done like on march 29. As of April 18 can confirm the issue has not comeback! Hoping to keep you guys updated!
Hey sir, just curious, did you do the bleeding procedure? I'm about to change my actuator tommorow, don't have a tool to run the bleeding procedure...
Jamba plays Yes I did the bleeding procedure. I didnt do it with a tool I just checkec my brakes normally the bubble procedure
@@Th3TaurosGamer still working well? Did you see bubbles come out? Thanks!
@@elscanoe no but it worked fine! I eventually had an issue with my coolant pump not sure if it was due to me missplacing something while taking everything apart but eventually fixed that too. Just be very careful when taking things apart. As of right now my car is working good!
You do very well in explanations. Good job teacher.
Thank you bro life saver my car just break down after being driving it for 3 days with red light abs piping I’m not taking it to the dealership for sure 👌
Everyone asking about bleeding, I can attest to Mr Electrics statement that brake bleeding is NOT essentional when replacing actuator. Did one today and tried without bleeding and as he said it surprisingly worked! Just fill your reservoir all the way, keep cap off and push pedal multiple times until it starts to harden up check fluid level and your golden
Is it still works fine without bleeding? I'm about to change my actuator tommorow, don't have a tool to run the bleeding procedure...
@@jambaplays8119 Did you ended up changing your brake actuator?
@@hedgehogthesonic3181 Hey there! Yes I did, first I did it without bleeding and did the bleeding procedure after a couple days using my buddy snap on scanner.
@@hedgehogthesonic3181 works fine till today, no issues.
@@jambaplays8119 Nice, good to know, i'm about to replace the actuator on my 2012 Prius C. May i ask you what the torque spec of the brake lines, if there is any? and the one of the orange wires that go to the inverter / converter?
Nobody showing how to get those back screws off…still somewhat difficult to reach even with the cowl off…:( what tool do you suggest?
just realized i need to remove the *entire* cowl...
You need multiple yous in every state dude. You're too good at this to be only in one area!
You should do every car repair video on UA-cam, or give an onlune course on how to speak car talk. Excellent. Maybe be give Scotty some lessons.
after a rusted brake line repair, I was not able to bleed the left rear, kept getting this ABS actuator fault after a short drive. tried multiple methods, the one that worked was the MityVac brake suction tool at the bleeder. FYI to all.
Great video Mr. Electric. Proves you don’t need to drop the F bomb or cuss to make a excellent tutorial.
You need a bigger channel sir. You talk well, Know a lot for a specific car such as prius. Please make more videos for anything car related. Subscribed
I randomly woke up like 4weeks after watching this video singing the song at 5:40.... What on earth is that? It took me like 2 weeks to remember where I heard it.. this video lol
Thank you for being so thorough love the music pimp!!!!
Clear instructions and direct. Great Job!
Great video! Loved how you explained every process and made it understandable for us all. And your care and caution for the safety aspect of it... very nice to see the care that you displayed. I'm watching this video because I think that I'm having the same issue with my 2007 Prius. My son was driving and the brakes just "went out" on him. He was actually able to maneuver the car home without incident, but we are not willing to drive it around to "test" it out because of that. I just wanted your opinion on that to see if that does sound like it is the actuator that needs to be replaced. Also, can you give me an estimate on the part and what to expect as far as the cost of labor for this repair? Thank you very much.
checking logged codes will tell you if it is the actuator. It could be the skid control ecu which would be much easier and less expensive to replace than the actuator.
Hell, yeah brother! About to do one of those for myself, for the first time! Great job at really laying out the step-by-step procedure. Definitely not something you want to take shortcuts on! Thanks for the great video, I subscribed and can't wait to check out more content, Rock on brother!
Thank you for the encouraging words!
@@Mrelectric423 of course brother! You helped me out immensely!
Very safe, professional way to start your repair, tells a lot about the quality of your jobs. I kind a have similar problem, I have a Prius 2012, the abs, brake and stability lights are on, the code I see is C-1391, a friend of mine working in Midas said is the actuator having a leak, the sound it does my car, is not consistent as the one you fixed, but when the lights are on (abs, brake, stability), the sound is repetitive every 9 seconds more or less, when pushing the brakes feels a little lose, but surprisingly the lights goes off by itself and the brakes works as normal, this symptom is coming and going, do you recommend to replace the accumulator? or start checking something else first, I will really appreciate your advice.
This video looks like it will save me a lot of money @MrElectric. I was just wondering if you could list out all of the parts you need to complete this change, like all the different socket sizes and stuff? Thanks!!!
This was a great tutorial. Gonna attempt to replace mine w my little brother. Looks easy enough. I do have a question though. If it starts to drain the battery, which mine is doing. Sometimes the battery just dies when I park it, it won’t turn on now. Does the hybrid battery or the battery in front need to be replaced usually?
Great video, and you sir, are a Master Mechanic! just courious, i wonder of Scotty Kilmere could fix that!
Hi my friend looks like you are in SF. Do you do this service locally?
Sorry I am not available.
@@Mrelectric423 No problem thanks for showing me how to do it!
Great video! It looks like something I can do but the high voltage scares! lol Thank you, Sir!
I assembled everything up to the inverter, and attempted to turn on the car to see if everything was alright. However, now the check engine, Triangle, (!), ABS VSC and Brake lights are on and the car will not turn on. I am not sure if the new actuator is defective or if I messed up. What can I check for and in what order should I go? Also, the brake does not have resistance at all as if the actuator did not send any pressure, but I can hear it buzzing when I pass by the car.
I want to put the old one back, but I am going to wait for any advice I can get.
Is the orange service connector clicked down to in secondary locked position( not just rocked into position but second lock of lever )
Is inverter cover on and connecting small safety prongs?
@@Mrelectric423 Hi, I figured it out, it was a small connector on the inverter. Thanks a lot, your video was the most concise/well put together. If I did not stumble upon it, I would have been out 1.5 grand. Thanks a lot and keep being awesome.
Mr. Electric you said the two behind the inverters or the one in the front ?
This was super helpful and just the right amount of info
9:40 ish…
You pulled of those cables on the inverter like it was nothing…as if it’d already been removed before…neither of them coming out so easy for me.
So I should just apply extra force? I can’t tell if there’s a tab situation I’m missing that I should be aware of
Oh I see
On mine at least there are two additional 10mm bolts to remove the most annoying being the one on the right of the bottom right cable.actually just fine with an extension, but the cable itself has small clips to push in on either side. A bit overkill IMO
Also many other connectors, each with their own way of being removed…annoying! But thankful for this video for showing the path. lots of "bobs your uncle" moments...even though many details that are unfamiliar to me that are taking a ton of time, like threading those @(*$@# lines, how to maneuver this thing back in, remounting the piece...
What happened to the break bleed video?
Waiting for a customer car that needs brake bleed to do the video
@@Mrelectric423 my Prius needs a bleed, where are you located?
My car needs a brake bleed... there is a continuous bip on my car and the breaks are takin longer to be responsive when you press on it
WOW! Please never stop your way of properly posting R&R videos! Now that I have your attention. lol 07 Prius, DTC Code (ABS flash code) is 45. I have the same sound but intermittently. 3 things I've noticed: 1) Apply brakes, it stops. 2) Rotate the Passenger-Right tire, it stops. 3) From the main battery compartment area and when the "shuttering sound" stops I can hear what sounds like fluid circulating near that right-rear quarter panel area. Maybe an ABS valve or something stuck open? Any suggestions/vids would be MUCH appreciated.
The vendor, parts - bravos, has offered to replace the ABS actuator pump unit I bought from him with the correct unit. showing the index letter "K".
Thank you so much. This was a lift saver. Your other videos are helpful also. But this one is AWESOME!!!!!!! and I only watched 1/2 . But I would like to know where the brake lines where when you did take out the ABS.
Thank you so much! The search is on for a cheap prius that needs an abs pump!
I have a 2008 Prius, with this problem, that I need to sell. I live in Texas.
I appreciate your time in making these very informative videos. I recently replaced the ABS Actuator on a 2008 RX 400H (so much easier than the Prius) and the brakes worked perfectly after replacing it. I did not need to bleed the brakes at all and all the ABS warning lights went away. If all is working well is there a need to deal with Techstream? Do you know of any issues that may arise if I do not do anything else? Thank you for your time!
My advice, If it works and no error light illuminated do not bleed it.
@@Mrelectric423 You are awesome, thank you!
excellent video.I like your safety mesures. I have a Prius 2005. I avoided a car accident and ran the left side wheel into a deep pot hole. end up with 3 lights A) red brake B) ABS yellow C) VSC yellow... lost partial almost no brakes but no HYD leak. and lost the inner brake pad and caliper piston kick out of its assembly on the left side. I change the left caliper & bracket and ,rotor on both side and brake pads on both side.
attempt a reset theses msgs with the paper clip trick on u tube on the osb panel but could not do it. Now the right caliper seems to grab the rotor as well and right wheel temperature on the rotor is much higher than the left side it's fell like caliper stuck.but not sure if it is identical to the left side problem. Do you think it maybe the caliper or air stuck in the HYD line I bleds both side but not the rear brakes.Could it be the ABS fail light that cause this or the accumulator that does not work because msgs are not reset. Thanks for your feedback.
Répondre
Sounds like a mechanical problem not related to actuator. The knuckle could be bent.
@@Mrelectric423 here something interesting. after many attempts to reset the faulty lights, I bled the rear brakes. Still no success even after disconnecting the auxiliary battery twice and repeating the paperclip procedure on the OBS. Then I read something about Toyota's steer wheel realignment procedure on the car that it needs to be on level ground for this procedure. My attempt procedure was always in my driveway at a 5 degree drop. I decided to repeat this paper clip procedure on flat ground and guess what. Immediately, all the lights went out. Smart car.
Hey thanks again for your quick response.
@@danlavigueur2648 good information to know! thank you
Great video brother. Stay safe
Do you have to drain the inverter coolant before you begin. And then how do you refill it without adding air?
was that arcing happening when you removed the last clip from the inverter.. right around the 10:30 mark when you realized you had one last clip and the camera got in close
Any thoughts on how to minimize spills of brake fluid and inverter coolant? You've inspired me to try to save my '05 Prius with 220K miles on it, just don't want to make too much of a mess!
It is a messy and difficult job!
Hi, great video! Thanks. I wanted to know if the ABS actuator is reprogrammable? Does it need to be reprogrammed by a dealer if you buy a used one and stick it into your car as a replacement?
That is a seriously good question. Where is the answer?
the problem is it is leaking internally, has nothing to do with any programing.
Mr. Electric, this is an awesome vid. Thank you. I'm about to undertake this job to save my '07 prius, but am not feeling super confident about the brake bleeding. Curious if you were planning on posting a follow up vid on how to do that. Again, thank you!
Sam,
As an experiment I did not bleed the brakes after install of an actuator on a gen 2 prius. Surprisingly it worked without issue.
@@Mrelectric423 is in necessary to bleed out the brakes after replacing abs actuator?
Mr. Electric I need break bleeding link Prius 2007
بلكت معلومات افضل علا الماجسته
بخصوص الماجسته البريك الاي بي اس ads
Can this procedure be accomplished without Techstream? If so, what set up would you recommend?
I have a 2013 prius with the dreaded ABS issue, dealership quote >$4k, $1,900 in parts alone... Having a go with used parts from either eBay are my local junkyard and a new scantool seems like a solid option before paying the dealer more than half of what the car is worth!
I appreciate the great visuals and also removal process being so clear. *How do I tell if the problem is break boosters or break actuator?* I'm looking at a Prius 2002, and know it's a little different, but not much. And roughly, how long did it take you as an expert to do this project (or if you're a DIY repairperson)?
I have little experience with gen 1 Prius but the general consensus is to move towards a gen 2 or newer when possible. I believe several areas were drastically improved in gen 2 up. If you already own the car I would start by researching the codes logged and paying attention to experts on Prius chat.
I worked at the Toyota dealership then an independent shop and now more as a hobbyist for the past 20 years. That said there is a lot to learn and I avoid trying to say I know the cars well.
Thanks for the video! I'm planning on replacing this part in our Prius and I think that this video will help a great bit. I do have one question, do you know what the torque specifications are for all the bolts/nuts/brake lines that get removed during this replacement?
Thanks,
Ezra
Ezra Aderhold I do not know the torque specs. There is not a torque wrench for brake lines that I have seen but a torque value is given for bracket bolts and other fasteners.
@@Mrelectric423 Ok thanks. We actually ended up doing this job last weekend, thankfully we didn't break any bolts and so far no leaks.
@@EzraAderholdDG Do you know if the bleeding process is imperative? In the past, for boosters, typically taping the lines would not allow enough air to get in.
@@pinpon163 I don't know if it is imperative, we did bleed ours though. On techstream the bleeding procedure says "perform this after changing the brake actuator" or something close to that. I would lean towards thinking it is probably a good idea to do it.
@@EzraAderholdDG thanks, I guess I will. For me, the bleeding process is more complicated/annoying than the replacement of the actuator.
This is really helpful video.
Excellent,& Very informative 👍🏼
do you have to bleed the brakes after installing?
Hi great video. Sorry to bother you but i have a 2006 Prius and the ABS warning light is on. I am still driving the car. If the Actuator totally fails will the brakes stop working ?
The pedal will become very hard to press if the actuator totally fails. The car will make a continuous beep noise when it fails.
Thanks for the reply :-)
Thanks for the video, it helped my navigate this job. But if your car is rusty from up north, just do yourself a favor and burn the car before doing this job removing the brake lines from that aluminum block is not nice especially if you bust off any lines. Turns this into a 12 hr job
Having trouble getting the pump out wish you recorded everything you had to do but other than that good video lol
Hi, thanks for your video, at your scanner show 2 code c1256 and c1391 same happens to my car.
My question change abs unit only or I have change brake booster as well for fixing 2 code? Thanks
How many people are using the high voltage gloves? Or is pulling the orange battery plug to de-energize sufficient?
I just show one way to maintain safety. Maybe techs do it without observing all the safety precautions
Did you ever make a video about the beading procedure?
Yes I made a bleeding video here, but it is not the scan tool method as mentioned at the end of this video.
ua-cam.com/video/FKqxqgL2b4M/v-deo.html
I love my Prius and it has been cared for then suddenly the ABS light and Brake light VSC as well. Didn't have any braking issues or noises.
The dealer quoted me 3000. It has 201900 miles runs perfect but lost what to do bc of high mile and worried more shit will go bad
Dear Mr. Electric, I enjoyed your video and learned a lot from it and others you have done. I have a 2008 highlander hybrid which has recently developed a noise coming form what I believe is the ABS actuator. It happens when I depress the brake pedal hard in park. The sound is a gurgling sound or muffled squeak. My wife says it sounds like there are mice in the engine bay. There are no ABS lights or any check engine lights on. Can you help with diagnosis? or any ideas. Thank you
I would let it go for a while , see if the light comes on. That does sound like an aging abs unit since the noise comes in concert with brake actuation
Very well done. Thanks for sharing.
Another video mentioned needing to replace the capacitor connected to the actuator so it's calibrated properly. Any thoughts on that? Thanks!
I have wondered about need for the big resistors replacement too. In my experience it is fine without but your results may vary
Hello, does your procedure for bleeding the brakes without a scan tool work for a bleed after replacing the brake actuator, or just jobs at the wheels like calipers? Would a snap on scan tool work or only a tech stream?
The non scan tool method has worked for me, in fact I have even tried not bleeding at all after actuator replacement and somehow the brakes have worked fine. I do not know why or how this works. All that said the snap on will work well to do bleeding procedure.
Thank you. Is there any danger of damaging the abs pump by running it dry while it primes or not really? Will it pull fluid through fast enough during the bleed to not make a difference?
@ I guess the safe route is to do the scantool procedure. There is a specific procedure that is for actuator replacement.
Thank you!
Always looking for a great mechanical video. GREAT VIDEO! Have you ever heard of old brake fluid causing abs actuator issues? Just a show it the dark but my brake fluid on my 07 is definitely old.
My brake fluid was old. For 2 days in a row, when I pressed on the brake pedal to start the car, I heard two noises, and the brake pedal dropped about 1/2 inch. On the 2nd day, the ABS light turned on, and Brake turned on with the triangle. I could not start the car. I suspect the problem may have been triggered due to my very old 12v AGM battery. I also thought it could be due to old brake fluid in the lines and/or oxygen in the brake line. I decided to replace and bleed the old brake fluid. I also charged up the 12v battery. After doing this, no brake problems. I am considering replacing the 12v battery.
You’re just amazing.
Just did this same job got it together and car wont start checked part number and the last number is diff than the one removed problem?
@@jonathangodfrey2210 it’s usually one of the two safety interlocks when it won’t start afterwards. One is the orange service connector not clicked down probably ( needs a second click) two is the service connector on the inverter cover gets bent pins.
A third is just some harness plug somewhere left unplugged.
What do you think of the likelihood that an actuator from a wrecked Prius of the same gen would work - thus saving a big expense for the module? Or is the original module a risky part to begin with?
Probably good, always inspect it best you can first
Whats a tale tell sign to inspect for signs of wear out or good signs etc
Great video can you do a video on dash board on 2008 Prius wont come on thank you
Could it be due to the 9 year old battery providing too little current on my Toyota xp130 ?
i replaced the actuator and the lights went away. i bled the brakes and only the front passenger side bleeding had the pump turn on while bleeding with the most bubbles coming out of it. the other wheels didnt have the pump turn on for more than a second but also had a tiny bit of air come out, but extremely little. not too much. there must be more? i'm sure there's more air. the three dashboard lights for abs turned back on and i can't brake very well again. any clue as to what this could be?
Bleeding is very tricky, see my video on quick brake bleed. You will need to clear codes with a capable scanner to continue
Hi thank you so much for this incredible video. Can I ask you, if my my brake like is completely empty due to a caliper failure. Do you think it will refill just by pumping the pedal and bleeding the caliper, or by pumping fluid from the caliper, up to the master cylinder?
Use the bleed process I show in brake bleeding video
If someone that needs to replace his ABS actuator doesn't do so, is it a big deal? Cuz the car is still driving fine
Eventually your brakes will completely fail. The brake system builds up air pressure and it leaks causing this issue. That's why you hear it running. When the leak gets bad enough the pump won't be able to keep up with the leaking air. At that point you will no longer have any power to the brakes.
a failed ABS on any other car works ok, but on a Prius you may have regen issues because it works with the brakes. eventually your EV battery will not fully charge. keep an eye out for it.
What scan software do you use?
Toyota techstream
Had the unit replaced and now the abs is engaging on one wheel of the car while turning. Any ideas why?
How many miles does this normally go bad? I have 81,000 on mine, and I'm getting the same error on my dash.