Another Day in the Life of Wayne Lynch

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  • Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
  • Wayne Lynch is a surfing icon who blazed individualistic pathways in both the performance and the lifestyle. Ascending during a time of great change and experimentation, Wayne took up the mantle personally, redefining what a surfboard should look like and how it should be ridden. Much of this innovation done outside of surfing's athletic or institutional complexes.
    Wayne's life is almost as it was 40 years ago. He still shapes surfboards, still lives simply by the sea. Shot in 2011, filmmaker Cyrus Sutton provides a window into Lynch's life after suffering from a heart attack. Serious jeopardy to anyone's health, our surfing heroes included, can have a way of radically altering everything underneath the surface, appearances be damned.
    With a nod to Jack McCoy's "Tubular Swells," "Another Day in the Life," is crafted with ultra-fine cinematography as well as a spare and modernist feel, showcasing glimpses of Lynch the idol while anchoring them in the reality of human mortality.
    The Surfer's Journal is a reader-supported publication. Subscribe to the magazine here: srfrsj.nl/subs...

КОМЕНТАРІ • 18

  • @SteveKettle
    @SteveKettle 3 місяці тому +1

    Awesome well explained he influenced my friends and me and lm glad we took on his free style and surfing isolation when we could
    Glad to see him on you tube and providing a good balance to surfing differences
    Good to see he is humble and his contentment
    You see so much more being away from the madding crowd
    Love ya bro

  • @James-nc2zx
    @James-nc2zx 3 місяці тому +2

    Wayne has always been an inspiration for me a real soul surfer thank you Wayne

  • @nelsonlugo45
    @nelsonlugo45 2 роки тому +3

    Puerto Rico, 1968. World Championship. Only ONE surfer changed Puerto Rican surfing forever, Wayne.

  • @neroblack1615
    @neroblack1615 2 роки тому +2

    Modern surfing may never understand this man's influence... just beautiful... good luck Wayne

  • @civilsocietyprivateinteres1711
    @civilsocietyprivateinteres1711 3 роки тому +4

    A legend

  • @joeblow1942
    @joeblow1942 3 роки тому +3

    That photo of Wayne’s cut back is iconic. I studied it carefully as a kid. I think it was on the front cover of Surfer Magazine. Anyone know how long that egg was?

    • @hunterdavis3003
      @hunterdavis3003 3 роки тому +2

      I thought 7’2”?

    • @joeblow1942
      @joeblow1942 3 роки тому +1

      @@hunterdavis3003 I guess Waynes board here was Skip Fryes inspiration for the egg.

  • @hg1651
    @hg1651 Місяць тому

    Heavy.

  • @davidgough3512
    @davidgough3512 3 роки тому +2

    Cyrus Sutton does the best little film documentaries. In '68 not much surf media around the Gulf coast.. one showing of Endless Summer on TV was my guide to technique as a grom, but thanks to b&w stills of Lynch in the mags, we were soon cutting down our relic longboards into shortboards and i was attempting never before dreamed of backhand verts. Later out of SF saw Lynch in Sea of Joy at a Marin high school auditorium, confirming his status as the cosmic one that truly set a new bar, WAY outside the box. The progression was a quantum leap and it's no exaggeration that, beyond anyone else, early Lynch showed us how to surf in a completely new way.

    • @joeblow1942
      @joeblow1942 3 роки тому +1

      Well said. And speaking of old surf movies, I saw endless summer when it first came out with Bruce Brown doing the narration LIVE behind a podium at Hoover high school in San Diego.

    • @davidgough3512
      @davidgough3512 3 роки тому +1

      @@joeblow1942 that is CLASSIC! Not sure which film but saw a folding chairs and projector showing of an early shortboard era film where the maker spun records as sound track. No royalties problems haha

  • @julianhobrough1290
    @julianhobrough1290 5 місяців тому

    Zzzzzzz……

  • @severianxi6990
    @severianxi6990 2 роки тому

    i had heard u survived a major cardiac arrest. Is he still able to surf ?

  • @larrysloan9296
    @larrysloan9296 2 роки тому

    Wayne is

  • @3_too_won
    @3_too_won 4 місяці тому

    Old style shaping machine the same as the one Col Smith made in the 1970,s at Morning Star surfboards.

  • @chicoxiba
    @chicoxiba 3 роки тому

    LOVELY STUFF