WHAT HAPPENED TO MY BMW E36 M3?
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
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Fuel pump and fuel filter! I've purchased e36's, e39's in the past with very similar issues and replacing those two components along with vaccuum leaks would solve it for me! Fuel filter should be replaced at 150k and the fuel pump typically begins to fail at 250-300k in my experiences.
Rent or buy a fuel pressure regulator and test fuel rail pressure when you crank the engine. Its a pretty straightforward test to see if you're getting the right pressure.
That or the idle control valve needs to be replaced
Hezron Lum second this!
Can confirm, I had an issue with this before in starting in the cold. But once the car heated up, there was enough pressure in gas tank to roll the car because the tank itself got warmer due to its location in regards to the exhaust.
I second this as well. I had similar issues and it was also the fuel pump
Why would it make it rich. The filter should lean it out not make it rich.
I was just commenting the same. On my e60 I had to replace my fule pump and sending unit. My filter got a Crack over time and I smelled gas for the longest. Also had a weird flutter under throttle. I bet if he parks on a hill he might see gas dripping from the back if its like how mine was set up.
Fuel delivery should affect both banks equal, and yours differ. Air leaks should decrease stft on higher rpms, as you mentioned, and it's not your case.
I would suggest timing issues, may be a sensor, or bad injectors. Has to be multiple injectors since you have issues on both banks. I don't know how the ICV works once the engine is warmed, but your problem persists although you can tell that much.
Alright man we need an update video. This stuff intrigues the hell out of me.. bring it!
Same deal here in AUSTRALIA... changed ccv cam sensor o2 sensor coils plugs filters.... starts okay runs okay but when it warms up then it carries on like yours..... love the car 420K km but don't love the problems in the last 12 months.... had the car from new and no probs for 19 years until recently.....
NEW INFO.... NEW COIL CYLINDER 2 FAULTY.....#$^&%$#
Everything is sorted.... going like a rocket....
Injectors produced similar problems for me in my 28i recently. They were cleaned and now it's fine. Or at least the engine. Unfortunately my car got wrecked by a Q7. All the drifting, the track days, the laps around Nordschleife this year, and then a Q7 crashes me at like 30kph out of nowhere. Restoration in progress for next summer... :(
But at least it gave me a chance to finally start building the thing. The M52 motor is out, a custom-built M50 is coming in instead.
Good luck solving this problem mate. Annoying things like this are... Annoying. But then when it works fine, it's always very good to have it back.
Good luck on the restoration man! Wrecks suck!
Had the same issue for months. Replaced everything you replaced, even injectors. Turns out it as was my fuel filter.
Those are horrible numbers, you def need a fuel pressure test and a diagnostic at a euro shop
Good to see another vid with your M3! Even though its been a little troublesome... I was just rear ended in mine and hit someone in front of me because of it. Most likely it will be totalled :(( It was the same color, year, and around 77k mi. So it was really good seeing and hearing yours today. EVERYONE HERE THAT HAS ONE OF THESE.... MAKE SURE YOU TREASURE IT!! You never know what will happen....
That's crazy! Very hard to replace a car like that. Hope all is ok!
@@TreatsOnTheStreets I have a little soreness still in my lower right back, shoulder and neck but im ok. But the M3... The right wheel was hanging off and the back tail light area was smashed in... It was so hard to look at... Well, im thinking Im gunna get some money so im thinking of putting a supercharger on my E60 and throwing some mtech bumpers on it. Wont be any where near as fun as the M3 but it will have to do.. Thanks for the reply!!
Treats On The Streets Actually Gavin I was wondering if you might be able to help me out? I have a few pieces that I never got to install and I was wondering if maybe you or anyone else on here might want them. I have a Porsche 911 3.5” HFM, 3.5” HFM Wiring harness, AFE Euro Cold Air Intake (oiled cotton filter, heat shield, HFM adapter, and intake tube), 24lb fuel injectors, M50 manifold adapter kit, Slightly used M50 manifold, and Schrick performance camshafts (264/256 degree). I would be willing to sell them for a 20% discount. Most of it is brand new never installed. CAI has maybe 500 miles on it. M50 manifold was bought used. I also have a $500 pioneer fold out touchscreen radio! If you don’t want or need anything I would greatly appreciate any help trying to get rid of them. Maybe it could be a thing on your channel? 🤷♂️ LOL I know that’s asking for a lot but I honestly don’t expect that. I’m grateful that you reply to any of our messages already. I’m just desperate... and very sad... I would be willing to give you a certain percentage of the items sold as well! Any help would be great Gavin thanks! I know you are probably busy so no worries if you don’t even reply to this lol.
Just bought my first e36, 92 325is original paint jet black, definitely the most fun I had in car so far
Nice man!
@@TreatsOnTheStreets almost forgot to mention we got the same m3 rims
Happy Birthday dude!
This could be due to clogged/low efficiently catalytic converters. The fact that when the car is warm the response gets better is a hint. I owned an e46 with below efficiency catalytic converters and it can cause massive power loss when clogged. Try putting spacers on your pre-cat O2 sensors and see if your fuel trims change any it could hint at the problem. The spacers are only a few dollars so if this turns out to not be the issue you haven't spent a fortune replacing the catalytic converters yet.
If from there you find no issues I would recommend proceeding to the fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, and fuel injectors.
I actually had a similar stumbling issue recently and it didn't throw an error code to work with, you might want to check coil boots as well. Mine had a very small rip in one and replacing it fixed the problem right away! Best of luck to you man
Thanks for the tip! When I changed the spark plugs I inspected the boots and luckily they were ok.
It's the idle control valve. Had a few customers with the same issue. It's a common issue. I replaced mine as well.
I'll have to look into that
You are so awesome love your E36 content and how to's can't stop watching please keep uploading !!!
I have a 99 328i and I was having similar issues. No one here has mentioned that that the ground wire below the DME might come loose over time. It was causing similar problems so it's worth taking a look. Good luck!
Where exactly is the ground wire you are talking about? I'll have to look into it!
I’m in the same boat. My best guess so far is ICV like many are saying. Keep us posted!
Check fuel pressure regulator, fuel injectors, and fuel pressure, fuel pump. Likely a fueling issue.
the fuel filter needs replaced, I can pretty much guarantee it will dump black fuel out. You can use a cheap tire pressure gauge to measure fuel pressure. I gave up on making my gas engine good, I'm going to swap it with an M57 diesel paired with a 6-speed manual diesel trans.
I never have these weird problems with my OBD1.
This M3 super clean!
But I'm more a fan off the sedan. Been owing my m3 3.2 6speed for almost 15years. Having also problems, with idle and Pull's like crap. Busy going aftermarket ecu , throttle body etc...
Francois from South-Africa.
Cool! Let me know how it goes for you
Crank or camshaft sensor?
My boyfriend owns a 2008 335xi coupe and he does all his work. He learns as he goes too. I’m forwarding video to him to see what he says because we had similar issues with his car recently but it was mainly spark plugs and o2 sensors. Not sure if it was anything else.
Thanks!
Idk but it feels to me like a fuel injector problem. Idk tho but that’s the first thought that came to mind
I agree looks like a fuel delivery issue based on your numbers. Pump, filter, regulator... check fuel pressure to rule it out.
I would replace the fuel filter if you haven’t already, it will help rule out lack of fuel
I did, good suggestion!
Change your fuel filter and fuel injectors. My exhaust and start up sounded the exact same. Hope it helps
Thanks man! You were on the right track. Check my latest video where I talk about what went on.
Nooooo don't take it the shop we wanna see the solution. FPR maybe? Fuel injectors? It's weird the trims are different like that. Also noticed the car is not in a storage shed, congrats on that. It almost sounds like your dropping a cylinder when it's under load.
Ecu colant temp sensor for 99% , the blue one.
It needs to run perfect at pedal to the metal, ecu coolant, crank and cam sensor + throttle postion sensor.
Fuel gas cap( just a random thing. I had a weird minimum sputter at idle occasionally. I just had an extra cap, threw it on. Its gone since 2 weeks ago.....)
I say check for leaky injectors or bad pressure regulator.
I’ve been having same codes p1188 p1189 on my 98 m3 for about 4 months. I replaced everything that could be possibly related but the cel kept coming up. A few weeks ago I reset my values from my schwaben diagnostics scanner and I haven’t seen the codes since. I put a little over 600 mi so far but I’m crossing my fingers it’ll stay that way. Hopefully it’ll work for as well
I'll give that a try, thanks!
look into the fuel pressure regulator
Try checking the fuel injectors, fuel filter, air filter, camshaft position sensor, clean the throttle body.
Re-lube or replace the injector O-rings. I ran into the same symptoms when I swapped in my 24lb injectors and stupidly, forgot to lubricate the port side o-rings. Felt like I was driving an extremely underpowered Subaru until I fixed it lol. Good Luck!
Were you just getting an air leak through the o rings?
@@TreatsOnTheStreets Surprisingly, yes. I was running extremely lean, misfiring to all hell, sounded like a 4 cylinder, same symptoms as you. I took out injectors, literally lubricated the dry O-rings and I had a perfectly running s52 when I reinstalled the injectors. Crazy, I know but I'll put money on that being the issue with your car.
@@kirchhoff1814 I don't think I have any air leaks though since I did a smoke test. Did you try that at all?
@@TreatsOnTheStreets Yes, I've tried a smoke test for a valve cover gasket leak on my M3 (unrelated issue), that's about the only time I've used my smoke machine. The smoke machine is accurate for obvious leaks, but minor disproportions in seals that leak while under intense vacuum, I'm not so sure. Based on what you've explained in this video & the fault codes given, you've pretty much narrowed down the issue to fuel or the ICV. Just check those damn injector seals, it takes 30ish minutes!
Sounds like an ICV to me. Usually you can just clean them and get away with it spray carb cleaner into it and make sure when you twist the thing agressively you can hear the door opening and closing
Gavin, Are you still stuck? I read in your response to a comment below that you tried a couple of BMW shops who could not help. You mentioned you lived in Utah. I'm in Boise and use Hurless Brothers for work I cannot do. Brett Hurless is one of the consultants listed in the back of Roundel magazine. He should be able to help you, but be prepared for negative comments about your modifications. How much wrenching do you do? Did you do the intake manifold swap? This would require modifications to the idle control hoses and the M52 uses a crankcase ventilation valve which the M50 does not. I'm thinking your answer lies there somewhere, but I'm really just a bit-more-than-novice DIYer. By the way, do you have the s52/m52 intake manifold and whatever brackets, parts that go with it?
I think the problem with those was I need a shop that works more on and is versed in modified BMW's. I am about to try something to check again but haven't had the chance to do it yet. The manifold is all installed correctly with no leaks and I used a conversion kit. Still have the s52 manifold but reused most the hardware.
sorry but i dont know what causes the problem, i have kindoff the same problem with my e30. ive been said it could be false air or something with the fuel. but im curious for your outcome, so i can look at that with my car
When you change the spark plugs you also have to adjust the spark plug gap.
Petr Stepanov they are pre gapped
I had a similar problem recently with my buddy. Fixed and changed everything, even if it was new already. Never fixed it. Then, decided to do compression test. Had 30psi in one cylinder. Bummer. Now we’re gonna be taking the motor apart to see inside soon. Good luck!
That's awful! Luckily I know I have good compression or I might be worried! Good luck with the motor
I would say maybe a fuel pressure sensor but I’m not sure if the e36 have them but if so I would look at that
I had that exact problem with my e36 and it was one of the spark plug coils
It's messed up because im having the same problem right now same codes and smells the same, while also having the same tune as you, if i cant find out what it is im thinking the tune needs to be checked too... its not the parts because i replaced everything too about to do spark plugs just in case. I'm getting 6-8 mpg while thats horrible i used to be at 14-16 mpg. i also now have a solenoid fuel running lossage code and replaced that and its still there. I will let you know asap
What injectors do you have?
Hi,
false interpreting fule trims is normally related to reading maf, tps and o2 sensors. These you could easily check with a multimeter
Maf should be givving like 0.5v at idle and close to 4.5v at full throttle and high rpm
Tps should have 0.5 at no gas and 4.5 at WOT
O2s - im not sure about the US m3, but euro e36es have 2 types of o2. Ones have 0v for lean and 1v for rich. Others have 5v for lean and 0v for rich. I guess different tunes might expect different sensors, so you might have the wrong sensor for your tune. As a easy way to check, you could unplug the O2s and reset fuel trims. This should let the engine run in openloop and not get fooled by false reading of the o2. If you have an improvemet, you would have your culprit.
Something else that could be causing a rich condition is fuel delivery. If your fuel pressure regulator is cracked or stuck, it could provide the wrong pressure or let extra fuel to be sucked in the intake.
A rip could be easily checked. You simply have to disconnect the vacuum hose to the regulator. If it has fuel in it, the diafragm is ripped. You can also suck the vacuum like. If it tastes like fuel, the diafragm is ripped. A blocked fuel return line could also increase fuel pressure. You can disconnect the return fuel line and blow into it. It should be freeflowing.
It's also a good idea to check fuel pressure and fuel delivery.
Pressure should be around 3.5 bar and fuel delivery like 2 liters per minute.
It could also be a stuck tank ventilation valve. You can easily check it. Beneath the intake boot there is a black canister and a valve with an electric plug. There is a hose comming from this valve that goes into the throttle body. Disconnect the hose and block it towards the engine.
I guess I've given a lot of things to check, but you can check most of them with a multimeter in like 20 minutes :)
I hope i've helped and i hope you manage to fix the car.
cheers :)
One more thing, an exhaust leak before the o2 sensor could trigger similar behavior. You might have a leacky exhaust manifold gasket ot a cracked header, or a leaky/worn secondary air injectio system. I saw in the video that you've checked, but it wouldn't heart putting a blanking plate or some type of blockoff on the pipe to the exhaust manifold.
What is the obd2 reader he has and is using??
??
If getting better as it warms, maybe icv?
fuel issue. ICV would cause an idle surge. too easy...
Check your vanos seal. Variable compression thats out of wack will cause lean/rich conditions, lumpy idle, power loss, and causes inconsitent throttle response. Seems like you have all the symptoms, how did the 200 other people that are commenting not even think about that? Vanos failure can happen anywhere between 30k and 100k miles and your at 70 so that shows you got some decent life out of it
I am also an e36 lover, have owned 7 different e36's and cuttently have an 95 m3 and a 95 325is. Just trying to help the best I can hate to see you spend thousands on an easy fix
It totally is possible. I just haven't checked it because I had my vanos rebuilt with teflon seals and such about 5k miles ago. Doesn't mean it is working correctly, just that I would hope it would last longer than that haha.
could be the plug in the m50 manifold causing a vacuum leak?
Have you tried putting the ecu back to stock tune?
Man that’s a sweet e36
Brooooooo. Pleaseeeee make an update. I have the SAME EXACT ISSUE with my 95 m3. I’m also running an RK tune with 24lb injectors and a Bosch 806 maf. Along with a stromung exhaust and AFE intake.
Will do man! Good luck! Let me know if you solve it before I do lol
I dmd you on ig with a post I made about it
Fuel filter, fuel pump, or bad injectors. Fuel filter should be changed at this mileage anyway
Oh you guys don't have the s52b32 over there. Cool car either way!
Bmw is a money pit when you replace parts that didnt need replacements. I have e90 and e46. Never had major issues
What about fuel pump or fuel lines?
I'm getting the same codes. Let me know if you figure it out
Will do!
Mine did the same thing until it eventually wouldn't even start...i ended up having to replace the vanos solenoid. The spring inside is constantly under tension. Even when your not driving the car and over time it starts to wear out. Wich causing a lack of power in the engine.
Interesting. Were you getting the same codes? I'll have to look into that.
@@TreatsOnTheStreets don't remember what the codes were it was years ago. But I remember the codes leading me nowhere.... I had to take it to German Motors and just ended up replacing the vanos and timing chain tensioner and guide
Who's your tuner
RK Tunes
Vanos seals?
What is that little display you are using?
Ultragauge
Check the cam sensor
Check the iac and the fuel system
Sorry to ask this while your so bummed out but this was your last vid and I thought you might answer me quicker if I commented in your latest video. What size are your tires and rims? Hope you get the car straight soon, miss your videos.
My wheel and tire combo is a little complicated haha. Watch my video titled "new wheel, tire, and spacer setup". And then watch my video titled "should you use spacers". That will give you all the info you need man👌.
@@TreatsOnTheStreets Ok, I watched it before but I'll check it out again. Are they 17" wheels?
I know you switched them front to back and used spacers but I was wondering what diameter they were.
@@patmckenna9887 the stock wheels are 17x7.5 front and 17x8.5 rear. Tires on the front are 235 40 17 and the rear is 225 45 17.
@@TreatsOnTheStreets thanks Gavin!
What were you numbers for compression test?
I don't remember the numbers but they were all within 5 psi of each other.
Damn. Well mine does the same but I fully built mine with a turbo and haven’t been able to find the problem causing it. I’m hoping whatever you end up fixing is what mine is wrong cause I’m out of ideas.
Check your intake manifold gasket
One thing that cringes me as an auto tech is when people don't know how to diagnose cars and throw money at there car. The money you spent on parts you could have found out the issue from a good shop even a diag at bmw. And then fixed it yourself. I really like your content though.
Funny you mention that. It has been frustrating because I have taken the car to 2 different BMW specific shops with solid reputations and neither of them could tell me what was wrong. I definitely know my limits but I have kind of unfortunately been forced to play a bit of a guessing game... 😬.
@@TreatsOnTheStreets you do sound very knowledgeable in trying to execute car problems. I would try an old school private shop that's been around for a while that has a great reputation. I know a great master tech he's 69 yrs old who rebuilt and fixed a super charged 2015 Range Rover engine recently when everyone else said it needed a new engine. He's in New Jersey the shop been open since 1950 Ed's auto service.
@@Dreamcardriving honestly I don't really know what I'm doing, but that sounds like a good idea!
I got The same issue :(
Hey, where can I get that wider lip ?
Click the link to my website in the description. You'll find it there ☺️
camshaft position sensor?
If nothing changed when you unplugged the MAF I'd suspect the MAF may be the culprit.
If the maf is faulty it will run bad with the maf. When you unplug it, the car runs on default tables and will usually run better because the problematic maf isn't sending bad signals causing issues.
Whats the name of that computer gauge
Scangauge
ICV or a faulty coil pack.
wow man you haven't been uploading for so long that UA-cam decided not to put it into my notification thingy even if I have the bell turned on. :(
How you been? Sorry to hear about the issue you're having.
So seems like you're having fuel delivery problem in a sense. So go down that route first. Fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors. I guarantee one of them is missing out. Either pump isn't providing the fuel at the right pressure which is 3.5 bar if i'm correct, fuel filter is dirty or just bad, or some injector has blown o-ring or similar. That's what i would do first and i'm pretty sure that's where the issue lies.
Other than that your car is so low mileage so i don't suspect about crank sensor which can produce similar issues, neither camshaft sensor. Neither VANOS solenoid. Those are fine 99%.
I'm sorry I'm not any closer to you I could've helped.
This car is so clean I fall in love every time i see it! Amazing piece you have there, just wow, one of the best i've seen.
Btw you have OBDII so that helps a lot. Imagine having M50 with OBDI having to figure out everything by yourself. That's where am at and let me tell you it is a pain in the butt.
Keep us posted man, i really want to know what is it.
Cheers and all the best from Europe!
oh and if it is the fuel pump, go with Walbro. Those are the best.
Also think about switching to a water pump with metal impeller sometimes in the future. Those factory ones have a plastic impeller which tends to go bad, but you have a lot of miles until that happens (I hope). Good luck
Maybe the VANOS is bad man.
O2 sensor / mass airflow sensor
How’s the cats
piston ring happening to mine
Ouch! I have done a compression test and it is all good, so hopefully I dont have the same issue. Good luck resolving yours!
what reader is that and where can I get one
It is called an Ultragauge
I was wondering
Is seafoam the culprit?
More: 4. Others have mentioned checking fuel pressure. Yes, do this.
5. By 78K mileage, you should have a new fuel filter. The M54 engine has an integrated FPR but I don't believe your car does. I own a 94 325is and have worked on M54 but never the M52/S52 engine. There's a mess under the intake manifold as you know. Check/update the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator to intake manifold if not already done.
6. ? VANOS. There is a seal and bearing that can be updated. I would not do this yet as the valve cover has to come off as well as fan/fan shroud, etc...
7. Get a BMW buddy who is as knowledgeable or more so than you to help and think thru problems.
8. If this were my car, I would remove air box, throttle body and start looking under the intake manifold. Make sure all electrical conditions are in place. Consider removing the CCV and hoses for examination. The M50tu engine uses a more primitive crankcase ventilation system. Also consider removing the intake manifold and starting over. Consider putting the original intake manifold back on.
Look at the Idle control valve and hoses. The plastic connector of the ICV hose into the M50 intake manifold has a single tab and can break causing a vacuum leak.
9. As you know, this BMW will have both ECT sensor and IATS. I have read that IATS is needed for fuel trim. I don't know what the DME does with ECT data?? Perhaps integrates both?? Make sure that electrical connection is in place. My M50TU engine uses IATS # 13621725324 versus S52 uses #13621739510. How they connect to the intake manifold is different but I don't know if they read differently?? I wonder which one you used. Again, I don't know if they read differently. It just measures air temperature so I assume they should read the same. A tuner should know.
10. The CCV sets the crankcase pressure which is a slight vacuum. this measurement is done at warm idle. I think this can be measured thru the dipstick guide tube, although I made a modified oil fill cap and use a slack tube manometer. I'm happy to mail you this for loan. The S52 measurement is 13 milliBar +- 2 millibar which corresponds to 5.22 +- 0.8 inches H2O. If out of spec, suspect the CCV as bad but a vacuum leak would likely alter the reading.
11. Personally I would not do any more modifications until this is sorted. I favor a vacuum leak.
12. Update your oil fill cap if not ever done.
I think your seafoam flush left gunk in the engine. Should not have done that.
I found the culprit and it wasn't that. I've used seafoam my entire life with no issue. Used it 4 times over 140k miles on another car and it only helped it get better. Looked at the cat too and it is 👌. I'll be updating you all in the next upload!
Random guessssss. Fuel cap? Fuel filter? :^)
vanos solenoid
Thank you for driving your car like you stole it. It’s a machine not a dust collector.
Reflash the ECU 🤷🏼♂️
I just might do that...
you should put ITB's on it thank me later!
Omar Saleh not worth it
@@Bostongreenm3. yes its worth it
That’s your problem, yoinks drive it like an idiot!!!
Clogged CATs. You’re welcome.
Your cat could be clogged
Guess I better get headers 🤣
First 😎 #e36fam
CHANGE YOUR FUEL FILTER BUDDY.
Cam position sensor, ignition coil, coil pack harness connector
What about the connector?
Its ok start that's not camshaft position senzor...
@@Krunoslav09 That would be the crankshaft position sensor.
At this point I would just let the shop diagnose and fix it. These cars are usually pretty cheap and easy to fix, but sometimes it's worth paying a little to avoid the annoyance of hunting down the issue.
Hi. Try to check fuel pressure on fuel rail. When you pop up the hood, there is a little cover screwed in front of the fuel rail. Unscrew that by hand and you will see a little valve - looks like the one on tire - and do a fuel pressure test. On amazon is a kit for like 30 bucks. You need the kit with adaptor for this valve and - important! - a T fittimgs. When you check that fuel pressure and it will be off, don´t imediatelly buy new fuel pressure regulator, but du a test of fuel pressure before fuel rail - directly from fuel pump - this is time rot T fitting on gauge. You can test it in front of fuel filter or uder back seat dirrectly from hoses that runs from fuel pump. Hope you figure it out :) Nice car that is driven how it should be :)
try replacing the maf, if nothing changes when you unplug it, maf is broken or maf wiring, and also the idle control valve being stuck would introduce the wrong amount of air into the engine. BUUT the easiest thing to change when getting lean codes is to change the fuel filter and check the fuel pump, my e46 got weird issues like you and when I changed the fuel filter it got better. When I poured out the fuel from the filter it was almost black :D
I changed the fuel filter and nothing changed... From what I understand, when you unplug the maf the car goes into a default that should make it run better if the maf was the issue. I have pretty much replaced the maf twice, so I am hoping it isn't that!
@@TreatsOnTheStreets
It is true, but you can't be sure..it should be some difference when you unplug/plug maf. Also if you don't run BOSCH one, you could easily have problems, but again can't be sure because you have different tune. Maybe start with your tuner for advice.
Also these cars have problem with coils, don't think you mentioned you tried that..try unplug one by one, and if one of them shows no difference in engine running, you have a bad coil on that cylinder
My e36 mass airflow gate was sticking causing a similar problem. Have you checked that?
What up Gavin! Love the content man 💪 always awesome! Sad to see your baby is down brother. I have a 98 with almost identical mods to yours. Anyways, I recently had this issue after I left my oil cap off after an oil change. It caused a massive crank case leak and I drove it prolly 30 miles as it got progressively worse. I poped the hood and Bam my oil cap was just chilling right next to the full hole didn't budge for 30 miles somehow. I chased that damn problem just like you for prolly a month. Car ran fine except the occasional rough idle. Even power was good. Finally took it to my go to shop here in STL "Bimmers r us" and they fixed numerous things(loose intake(barely..) and a small crack in my intake boot(replaced that) picked it up code was gone car ran fine except the occasional little idle stumble and then I kept getting the same freakin codes.. did extensive googling and apparently it's a major problem for a lot of E46 cars and E36 cars alike not to mention e92 etc.. took it back to Greg and said holy shit man this is driving me insane finally replaced the MAF again and reset adaptations boom good to go. It's kind of a crapshoot I would take it to a shop and see what they think manI would honestly take it to the shop that did your intake manifold swap for youand say I don't know guys everything is running perfect and now this.. lol
check ccv, tps sensor, double check vacuum lines, injectors, fuel purge valve etc. I used to get those codes all the time. replaced everything just like you've done, and it ended up being o2 sensors, which unfortunately was the last thing on my list. Have a mechanic plug in a more detailed scanner. Good luck!
First check Cam position sensor...
I am sorry to say it. But walk your way backwards. Start removing the latest upgrade. But it sounds like it needs a good tune. Good luck. I want to see it ripping the streets.
Thanks man! I think that's a good call.
My 328is smells super rich too but I don't have a check engine light but my car did not pass emissions test so I hope you can find a way to fix it
Hey treats!!!! Long time E36 lover here. Saw your update vid and hate to hear your cars giving you problems. I have spare ICVs, stock 21# pink injectors, a VANOS housing and solenoid... plenty of spare parts that were in fine working order for you to swap and troubleshoot with. I’m willing to send it all your way free of charge, just say the word... If none of these things change the running condition, I would look into a Cam Position sensor, and definitely check fuel pressure properly at the Schrader valve to evaluate the fuel pump.. Looking to help another e36 lover out.... ps, don’t sell it and buy a Supra lmao...
You're awesome man! I have something I need to try, but if it doesn't work out I will let you know 👍