First off great video, you are the only one i could find that actually explains the process as your doing it. All the other knuckleheads have some god awful instrumental music playing the whole time without an talking telling you what to do and why. Thank you for making a truly informative video.
The best and safest way would be to use a 4 x battery holder, pre wired in series. Then take the cells out and charge individually in external charger when low. Otherwise you would need a BMS. Using cells in series is not a problem, but charging in series is.
But you really need a balancer if you want to charge those things on a regular basis. If you don't balance than at one point you will be over charging one of your cells so far it might catch fire.
Nice video. I'm wondering what you made that for. I'm sure this was ok and worked fine but others watching should not ever leave the iron on the battery for more than 2-3 seconds. It's usually ok with the better brands but a single cheap battery can absolutely blow up and ruin your day (maybe more). Those unbranded Chinese batteries are notoriously flimsy (when an actual battery and not filled with sand). 1. Get a hot iron and semi-sweet cloth ready 2. Clean and lightly sand/scratch the leads of the battery 3. Tap some solder onto the battery lead, taking no more than a couple seconds. 4. Immediately turn the battery over onto the wet cloth to cool. 5. Repeat. Again, it's usually quite safe but you have to remember that these batteries are mass-produced and some poor builds sneak out even from the decent manufacturers. Chinese batteries? Forget about it haha. No more than 2 seconds and get that iron off of it.
any idea how much volts/amps the tabbing wire can take, been looking everywhere to see if it worth using on a 36v ebike battery, just don`t think it will do unless i put on 3 layers or more
Hi Anthony. I want to build a power pack using Two sets of $cells in series like yours, but connect the packs together in parallel to double the mAh. Once I have done this how on earth do I charge the packs back up after use?
Hi Kenny, if you have two of these cells in series, then to charge them, you need to apply exactly 8.4v across the pair. The same is true regardless of how many are in parallel. When you come to charge, 2 cells may draw 1a. You should multiply this by how many you have in parallellel. So if you have 2x2, it should charge at 8.4v at approx 2a. If you want to do a proper job, you need to add two more things; cell integrity checks to check the voltage of all cells. Also you need to limit current in the event of some sort of short. Antony
you need to solder 14 gauge wire one red one black solder it to the bms that has the pos and neg output on and get you balance lead for the number of your cells wire that in and for the pos and neg get a xt60 connector and buy u a cheap rc charger that can charge li-ion if u need help msg me any time i will help u in depth that how u charge it
Is it possible to bundle enough packs to start an auto engine? And if so how do you configure end up with a cable connection big enough? Got tons of these and tab and bus. How do u weed out bad cells, won't charge by by, hold charge, how to test?
Yes you can, sort of. With standard/common Lithium Cobalt cells (which these are) it's not ideal. You can only go with 3s or 4s, and the voltage is either too low, or too high (or you can only use 70% of the capacity/amps). The best cells to use would be LiFePo cells, as they are just about a direct replacement for lead acid. In this case you'd use 3s of the LiFePo cells to make a 12V pack with a 14.6V fully charged pack. Please check out the builds over at secondlifestorage.com forum where we have lots of these projects. You can also check us out over at discord (discord.gg/c7gJ5uA) Over on the forum we go into great detail of how to weed out bad cells and how to interconnect, fuse, diagnose and configure the packs/strings for various builds.
I'm assuming you mean 12 cells together to make 48V. If so, no, not really. You need 14s because you base the voltage off the nominal of the cells. For most 18650 cells, that's 3.7V, not 4.2V. Just like lead acid, nominal is 12V and fully charged is 14.5V. 3.7 * 14 = 51.8V. These "seems" high, but if you go by lead acid values of 14.5V, then 14.5 * 4 = 58V (lithium 4.2 * 14 = 58.8V). And then for the bottem end, lead acid is about 10.4V, or 41.6V and lithium is 3.0V, or 42V. So, 14s 😉 Please check out the builds over at secondlifestorage.com forum where we have lots of these projects. You can also check us out over at discord (discord.gg/c7gJ5uA) Over on the forum we go into great detail of how to weed out bad cells and how to interconnect, fuse, diagnose and configure the packs/strings for various builds.
@@korishan flooded batteries don't charge to 14.5v 12.8 is usually the maximum. Sure most cars run at 14.4-15.1v but as soon as you turn it off it drops back to 12.xx. That's for flooded or AGM. That's three biggest reason why so many of us in car audio are switching to lithium because standard batteries don't help you stay above 12v at all and we want 14+. I switched from 12 sealed Batts to a 4s40p 18650 pack and now can full tilt at 15v
@@Str8GasGenetics I stand corrected. It's not 14.4 as I mentioned. Each cell in a Sealed LA is 2.25 - 2.3V. So that would equate to a 13.5 - 13.8V when fully topped off. So, the math is as follows: 13.5 * 4 = 54V for a "48V" setup If charging to 4.1V on the lithiums (to gain life cycles), then that comes to 4.1 * 14 = 57.4V. Most inverters can handle up to 58V. Bottom end would be 3.2 * 14 = 44.8V (SLA 11.5 * 4 = 46V)
Don’t do what is shown here!! To much heat on cells no pre-soldering to cells no flat soldering tip forecast calls for damaging or worse. Also tin your soldering iron .
If you all haven't seen a documentary called... It's worse than you think... By revelations of Jesus Christ ministries... I suggest you do... All praise and Lord to the most high Jesus Christ
Damn, dude. You ought to learn the basics of soldering before you put out a UA-cam video about how to solder cells. That iron is way too small and you're killing the cells with excess heat.
Are you an electronics technician? I don't think so. You just tortured the batteries, man.. What if a teenage minor mimicked your style on these videos and ended up burning their home in the process?
@@topgun2249 Whatever you do in life, you need to have some common sense! What if you saw an advert on TV for running shoes, bought some, went out running and had some sort of heart failure? What if you watched a video about how houses are built, bought some bricks and dropped one on your foot and broke it? Whatever you want to do in life, you need to also employ a degree of common sense!
You broke the world record for time spent holding a soldering iron to 18650 batteries.
Haha!
This!! Lol
the most amazingly dangerous build I have watched today. I have watched a lot of these lately lol
First off great video, you are the only one i could find that actually explains the process as your doing it. All the other knuckleheads have some god awful instrumental music playing the whole time without an talking telling you what to do and why. Thank you for making a truly informative video.
Thanks!
Soldering battery with a professional iron, assembling battery without balancer, this man must be an expert at making IEDs 😎
The best and safest way would be to use a 4 x battery holder, pre wired in series. Then take the cells out and charge individually in external charger when low. Otherwise you would need a BMS. Using cells in series is not a problem, but charging in series is.
I am doing same what gauge of wire is ok for use in drone means batteries will be at limit
But you really need a balancer if you want to charge those things on a regular basis. If you don't balance than at one point you will be over charging one of your cells so far it might catch fire.
lol. and there I was worrying about overheating my cells. :)
OH THIS HELPED ME A LOT I CONNECTED 4 BATTERY'S IN A DIFFERENT WAY AND THE WIRE GOT TOO HOT AND SMOKE CAME 🤭
Keep up the good work 🎉🎉
Thank you very much I need to replace the batteries in an old drill
Where do you got those cages? Muchas gracias amigo. S.A. Tx
Thanks for the video, very helpful! What are those black clips called and where could I buy them? Thanks again!
Same here
Red nick style electronics.. I Love as well.
Excellent demo
cool video very precise as usual Antony
THANK YOU! Only video I could understand !
Nice video. I'm wondering what you made that for.
I'm sure this was ok and worked fine but others watching should not ever leave the iron on the battery for more than 2-3 seconds.
It's usually ok with the better brands but a single cheap battery can absolutely blow up and ruin your day (maybe more). Those unbranded Chinese batteries are notoriously flimsy (when an actual battery and not filled with sand).
1. Get a hot iron and semi-sweet cloth ready
2. Clean and lightly sand/scratch the leads of the battery
3. Tap some solder onto the battery lead, taking no more than a couple seconds.
4. Immediately turn the battery over onto the wet cloth to cool.
5. Repeat.
Again, it's usually quite safe but you have to remember that these batteries are mass-produced and some poor builds sneak out even from the decent manufacturers. Chinese batteries? Forget about it haha. No more than 2 seconds and get that iron off of it.
Is I make 1.2 volts 4 batteries together and recharge it?
How are you gonna recharge them later?
Nice project 👍
hi Antony,Do you charge it without a charging leveler chip?
What kind of soldering Iron was that you were using?
thank you
any idea how much volts/amps the tabbing wire can take, been looking everywhere to see if it worth using on a 36v ebike battery, just don`t think it will do unless i put on 3 layers or more
can you do the same wity size 123A?
Hi Anthony. I want to build a power pack using Two sets of $cells in series like yours, but connect the packs together in parallel to double the mAh. Once I have done this how on earth do I charge the packs back up after use?
Hi Kenny, if you have two of these cells in series, then to charge them, you need to apply exactly 8.4v across the pair. The same is true regardless of how many are in parallel. When you come to charge, 2 cells may draw 1a. You should multiply this by how many you have in parallellel. So if you have 2x2, it should charge at 8.4v at approx 2a. If you want to do a proper job, you need to add two more things; cell integrity checks to check the voltage of all cells. Also you need to limit current in the event of some sort of short. Antony
Also, research BMS. You can buy cheap ones.
you need to solder 14 gauge wire one red one black solder it to the bms that has the pos and neg output on and get you balance lead for the number of your cells wire that in and for the pos and neg get a xt60 connector and buy u a cheap rc charger that can charge li-ion if u need help msg me any time i will help u in depth that how u charge it
sir can i ask what is the wire sized you used in battery?
Nice video but please use lead solder.
thank !
This battery can i use bajaj discover bick
Is it possible to bundle enough packs to start an auto engine? And if so how do you configure end up with a cable connection big enough?
Got tons of these and tab and bus. How do u weed out bad cells, won't charge by by, hold charge, how to test?
Yes you can, sort of. With standard/common Lithium Cobalt cells (which these are) it's not ideal. You can only go with 3s or 4s, and the voltage is either too low, or too high (or you can only use 70% of the capacity/amps). The best cells to use would be LiFePo cells, as they are just about a direct replacement for lead acid. In this case you'd use 3s of the LiFePo cells to make a 12V pack with a 14.6V fully charged pack.
Please check out the builds over at secondlifestorage.com forum where we have lots of these projects. You can also check us out over at discord (discord.gg/c7gJ5uA)
Over on the forum we go into great detail of how to weed out bad cells and how to interconnect, fuse, diagnose and configure the packs/strings for various builds.
Yes most of the jump boxes that are sold at stores have either 3s or 4s lipo batteries inside
Sir how to charge it
You should have sand the battery top 1st before you solder i can see you are struggling with soldering
could I put 12 of them together and make a 48 volt battery for my ebike?
I'm assuming you mean 12 cells together to make 48V. If so, no, not really. You need 14s because you base the voltage off the nominal of the cells. For most 18650 cells, that's 3.7V, not 4.2V. Just like lead acid, nominal is 12V and fully charged is 14.5V.
3.7 * 14 = 51.8V. These "seems" high, but if you go by lead acid values of 14.5V, then 14.5 * 4 = 58V (lithium 4.2 * 14 = 58.8V). And then for the bottem end, lead acid is about 10.4V, or 41.6V and lithium is 3.0V, or 42V.
So, 14s 😉
Please check out the builds over at secondlifestorage.com forum where we have lots of these projects. You can also check us out over at discord (discord.gg/c7gJ5uA)
Over on the forum we go into great detail of how to weed out bad cells and how to interconnect, fuse, diagnose and configure the packs/strings for various builds.
@@korishan thank you
@@korishan flooded batteries don't charge to 14.5v 12.8 is usually the maximum. Sure most cars run at 14.4-15.1v but as soon as you turn it off it drops back to 12.xx.
That's for flooded or AGM. That's three biggest reason why so many of us in car audio are switching to lithium because standard batteries don't help you stay above 12v at all and we want 14+.
I switched from 12 sealed Batts to a 4s40p 18650 pack and now can full tilt at 15v
@@Str8GasGenetics I stand corrected. It's not 14.4 as I mentioned. Each cell in a Sealed LA is 2.25 - 2.3V. So that would equate to a 13.5 - 13.8V when fully topped off.
So, the math is as follows:
13.5 * 4 = 54V for a "48V" setup
If charging to 4.1V on the lithiums (to gain life cycles), then that comes to 4.1 * 14 = 57.4V. Most inverters can handle up to 58V.
Bottom end would be 3.2 * 14 = 44.8V (SLA 11.5 * 4 = 46V)
Don’t do what is shown here!! To much heat on cells no pre-soldering to cells no flat soldering tip forecast calls for damaging or worse. Also tin your soldering iron .
If you all haven't seen a documentary called... It's worse than you think... By revelations of Jesus Christ ministries... I suggest you do... All praise and Lord to the most high Jesus Christ
Damn, dude. You ought to learn the basics of soldering before you put out a UA-cam video about how to solder cells. That iron is way too small and you're killing the cells with excess heat.
Demmmag nhi tere koooo
Thats messy
Weak
Are you an electronics technician? I don't think so. You just tortured the batteries, man..
What if a teenage minor mimicked your style on these videos and ended up burning their home in the process?
I'm not an electronics technician.
@@AntonyCartwright then it's better to add a Disclaimer
@@topgun2249 Whatever you do in life, you need to have some common sense! What if you saw an advert on TV for running shoes, bought some, went out running and had some sort of heart failure? What if you watched a video about how houses are built, bought some bricks and dropped one on your foot and broke it? Whatever you want to do in life, you need to also employ a degree of common sense!
@@AntonyCartwright correct, there are tooo many 'correct Nazis' out there...