thx for posting this, was a good primer for changing the WP on my 2014 428Xi. I did find that I could access the 3 bolts that attach the WP to the engine block by removing the right hand wheel and going in through the inner fender. Was able to get a 3/8 extension with a wobble drive on them.
I had a filter in my 2009 328i with the n52 . I cut it out and sanded down the edges and hit it with compressed air to remove any shavings. It made a noticeable difference in intake sound and a slight difference in throttle response. I would say even with that filter my 2016 n20 328i already responds better than the 09 did.
This is a good video. I like how you got clear shots of the important areas. Thanks to your video, I will use zip ties and plastic lunch bags to cover the hose openings. Some vids I have seen show opening the bleeder screws on the bottom side and top. Did you do that? Thanks for the tip on the battery tender.
Did the water pump and thermostat job on a 2016 320i this weekend. I went round and round about the part numbers and securing a good pump. The original is a Saleri. The new part number for the pump is 11-51-5-A81-BE9 (from BMW) while the part number still listed on most sites is 11-51-7-597-715. I thought the difference for the updated number and pump was a metal impeller so while I ordered the new number pump, the Saleri box still had the original part number listed. Confused? Me too. I was told the new pump had a metal impeller, which this pump didn't have. Further inquiries found that it's the front part of the pump housing that was changed from plastic to metal and the impeller is still plastic. Looks like the impeller has a metal base part on the motor shaft with the plastic molded around that metal piece. If there's a metal impeller in there somewhere on some pumps, I'd like to see a pic. Anyway, my install went just the same as this post except when I came to getting the two lower bolts out (and back in), and after fighting and cursing the procedure, I found that the easiest way to do it was to remove the right side top engine mount bolt, put a piece of wood on a jack to spread the loading on the oil pan, and jack up the engine about an inch or so for easy access. Went smoothly after that.
@victordamus hey man did you ever figure out the reason why your car didnt do the self bleed procedure I’m currently about to install a new water pump but if I run into this problem i would like to know what it could be
@@Bmwguvp0 I did. Like a dumb ass I forgot to plug in the switch to the water pump. It ended up working. Just make sure your hoses are well sealed. Good luck!
I have check the engine light on my 328i 2013, first when I've test with obd2 shows a lin bus error, CD8E10, CD8E12 I've replaced the accumulator regulator anything has been changed. then added CD9010 and 1D2404. A mechanic told me that the pump communication module blocks the signal puts the whole network in emergency and turns on the check engine for that the water pump should replace. He disconnected the water pump and the check engine light stayed off. Should I replace the water pump?
To be honest trust your mechanic. Im not familiar with these trouble codes and I replaced my water pump before It failed on me. Sorry I can’t be any help but I am curious Being that it’s still a bmw did you notice engine temperatures exceeding 200 degrees Fahrenheit? Did it go into limp mode? Did you get any kind of coolant messages on the dash?
@@redihoxha2940 Same symptoms. I replaced Thetmostat first. I Verified coolant flows and Temperature gauge works fine but Check engine amber light is still on... Do I Have to replace Water pump or Disconnect switch?
thx for posting this, was a good primer for changing the WP on my 2014 428Xi. I did find that I could access the 3 bolts that attach the WP to the engine block by removing the right hand wheel and going in through the inner fender. Was able to get a 3/8 extension with a wobble drive on them.
I had a filter in my 2009 328i with the n52 . I cut it out and sanded down the edges and hit it with compressed air to remove any shavings. It made a noticeable difference in intake sound and a slight difference in throttle response. I would say even with that filter my 2016 n20 328i already responds better than the 09 did.
This is a good video. I like how you got clear shots of the important areas. Thanks to your video, I will use zip ties and plastic lunch bags to cover the hose openings. Some vids I have seen show opening the bleeder screws on the bottom side and top. Did you do that? Thanks for the tip on the battery tender.
I did not open the bleeders the self bleeding system worked perfectly fine and no prob on the battery tender. thanks for the support
Nice work. Appreciate the tutorial. Wish me luck!
Thank you for the video!
Did the water pump and thermostat job on a 2016 320i this weekend. I went round and round about the part numbers and securing a good pump. The original is a Saleri. The new part number for the pump is 11-51-5-A81-BE9 (from BMW) while the part number still listed on most sites is 11-51-7-597-715. I thought the difference for the updated number and pump was a metal impeller so while I ordered the new number pump, the Saleri box still had the original part number listed. Confused? Me too. I was told the new pump had a metal impeller, which this pump didn't have. Further inquiries found that it's the front part of the pump housing that was changed from plastic to metal and the impeller is still plastic. Looks like the impeller has a metal base part on the motor shaft with the plastic molded around that metal piece. If there's a metal impeller in there somewhere on some pumps, I'd like to see a pic. Anyway, my install went just the same as this post except when I came to getting the two lower bolts out (and back in), and after fighting and cursing the procedure, I found that the easiest way to do it was to remove the right side top engine mount bolt, put a piece of wood on a jack to spread the loading on the oil pan, and jack up the engine about an inch or so for easy access. Went smoothly after that.
Nice work
Great video. I’m having a difficult time removing the bottom bolts of the water pump. You used the 3/8 wrench ?
Yes I’m the video I also used a 3/8 socket with a 1/4 inch ratchet
My car didn't do the self bleed procuedre. And my car is still giving me the u019 code. Any thoughts?
@victordamus hey man did you ever figure out the reason why your car didnt do the self bleed procedure I’m currently about to install a new water pump but if I run into this problem i would like to know what it could be
@@Bmwguvp0 I did. Like a dumb ass I forgot to plug in the switch to the water pump. It ended up working. Just make sure your hoses are well sealed. Good luck!
I really appreciate it mane thank you !!!!
Thanks for the video bro
I have check the engine light on my 328i 2013, first when I've test with obd2 shows a lin bus error, CD8E10, CD8E12 I've replaced the accumulator regulator anything has been changed. then added CD9010 and 1D2404. A mechanic told me that the pump communication module blocks the signal puts the whole network in emergency and turns on the check engine for that the water pump should replace. He disconnected the water pump and the check engine light stayed off. Should I replace the water pump?
To be honest trust your mechanic. Im not familiar with these trouble codes and I replaced my water pump before It failed on me. Sorry I can’t be any help but I am curious Being that it’s still a bmw did you notice engine temperatures exceeding 200 degrees Fahrenheit? Did it go into limp mode? Did you get any kind of coolant messages on the dash?
@@ultimatediyguy395 the problem was with the water pump, I've fixed it 👍
@@redihoxha2940 Same symptoms. I replaced Thetmostat first. I Verified coolant flows and Temperature gauge works fine but Check engine amber light is still on... Do I Have to replace Water pump or Disconnect switch?
@@junepark5873 water pump. Is electronic
@@redihoxha2940Change Water pump. I will try it.
Hey bro is the new water pump aluminum?
It looks better than stock?
How has it performed so far?
It’s been awhile but I believe the housing is aluminum but the actual impeller is still plastic
And I’ve had no issues
@@ultimatediyguy395 wow you responded you're so cool.
Thanks for letting me know
🙂👍
@@ultimatediyguy395 oh.
Plastic fins?
🤔
Okay.
I rather have aluminum inside too
Bro I replaced two brand new water pumps and still can’t get it to work no communication with water pump
Ever fixed it?
what milleage on this
About 100,000