Friends Of The Grit | A Peak District Climbing Odyssey
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- Опубліковано 13 кві 2022
- Get Ready For Your Next Adventure with EpicTV and Wild Country: bit.ly/3JxWff7
Do you ever look at countries other than your own and think, 'Wow, that's pretty weird...'
Mash that idea up with climbing, and you will see a hotbed of strangeness when it comes to cultural differences between its practice in different countries. But scratch below that surface and you will start to see traditions, ethics, and more importantly stories behind the reasons why climbing is practised in the many ways that it is around the world.
It is (perhaps) with this in mind that Belgian climber, Siebe Vanhee made the pilgrimage to the epicentre of climbing ethics, the Peak District.
Accompanied by a mixture of British Legends, firmly established or in the making, Siebe Vanhee seeks out the best of what UK Trad climbing has to offer, and manages to turn some heads whilst he is doing it.
Presented By @wildcountryclimbing: / wildcountryclimbing
🎥 : Andrea Cossu / Onsen Productions: / onsen_productions
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Get ready for 'Friends Of The Grit'
Friends Of The Grit | Siebe Vanhee - Спорт
Thanks for the great film, really well put together. Very nice to meet and climb with you Siebe, it was a pleasure to show you some classics 🤙 see you soon hopefully 👍
Thanks Pete! Great that u were able to explain the mythical world of E grades to Siebe 😁
You know its hard and sketchy, when everyone is quiet as mice until the climber tops out. No "venga venga venga" or "c'mon''
Good point… #sweatypalms
An amazing film, there isn’t nearly enough grit content out in the world and the message behind this one is fantastic!
Top work all round!
Thanks Drew! Glad you enjoyed it 💪
Really cool film, I remember bouldering on the Burbage Valley boulders back in the autumn and seeing Parthian Shot was chalked all the way to the top. Nice to know who climbed it.
What a fantastic concept for a climbing film. Awesome!
Thanks Jessica, glad you enjoyed it!
Bravo climbers and film makers. As you portray it is so much more than the climbing, its the people and wildlife, the landscape, the smells, the changing seasons, the ever changing weather and light, the pub afterwards. When it all comes together it is joyous and addictive.
I absolutely refuse to believe that the UK trad grading system isn't a prank that all us Brits are playing on the world..
🤣
If it's a prank I think it may be that it puts the fear of god into anyone who thinks that all they need to do to be a great climber is try hard and have a good day.
Starts at mod/difficult and just gets worse from there🤣
I've climbed all round the world, nothing beats bright cold winter day
Excellent film. Big respect for Siebes keen and curious energy 💪🏻
He cruises them all wow
Really enjoyed that. A love letter to our beloved Peak District, and some seriously hard climbing. That’s quite the ticklist for one trip! Equilibrium next time eh?
And The Groove is waiting for a repeat still
Lets be fair, whilst not exclusive to the peak district in the way gritstone is. Limestone is far better known in the peak. Gigglewick, malham cove, kilnsey.
@@donalddarko3676 All those places are in the Yorkshire Dales rather than the Peak....but certainly there's some nice limestone in the Peak also.
I'm old enough to remember when all of these routes were mind-blowing first ascents, in particular when Jonny Woodward put up the utterly audacious (for the period) Beau Geste; Jonny's write-up in the Stoney route book at the time was a classic FU to the other hard cases who aspired to any of "grit's last great problems". An image of the entry can be found online with some deep digging but as I recall he referred to it as an "obscure feature" and an "eliminate line" and graded it HVS; the abuse his write-up got in the book was hilarious (lot's of "see you next Tuesday" comments). I only say this because it struck me watching this beautiful film that grit is timeless and the history is amazing; so many characters, dark humor and insane competitiveness to the verge of it being death-defying. Those buttresses & features stand as sentinels & monuments, like emotional time machines or something for old farts like me. Indoor climbing or sport climbing, although entirely valid, simply cannot match what the grit has to offer. Oh, and Siebe is an absolute machine! Thanks to all involved for one of the smartest and worthwhile climbing films I've seen in years.
This is brilliant. What a talent. Unbelievable ticklist, and wise words from everyone. Remember Gaz Parry came with some similar wisdom about the personal and honesty factor some years back. On a technical note, great edit, music and tempo. 30mins well spent. Thanks!
Love your style and attitude, Siebe. You evoke well the nuances and intricacies of the grit and its practitioners...
You’d be welcome in any climbing community - especially here in the Eastern Cape in South Africa...
What a beautifully put together short film. Very impressive climbing and that's putting it lightly. 👏 👌
Really enjoyed that. Thanks for putting it out for free on UA-cam!
No problem John thanks for watching!
Fingers are slick watching. Spot on.
😅 ✊
This is simply beautiful
18:03 when he tops out Master's Edge it kinda looks like the anchor rope up there has no hardware on it, then he looks down at his harness and realizes he has nothing left on it to clip in with, so he puts his hands on his hips and thinks "huh".
Really epic and inspiring film!
An exceptionally well put together film! What an awesome story with lovely people and great climbing! Fully psyched. Great work to all the climbers and those behind the lens/screen! AWESOME!
thanks Pete!
@@EpicTV it really is an exceptional film! Festival material.
Awesome!
That was an amazing and absolutely beautiful film, I am absolutely dying to climb there now!
Excellent film, really enjoyed it. Good insight into ethics, tradition, legends climbing. Pretty cool idea to come alone and try to catch up with the locals. Excellent soundtrack as well. Thank you!
Excellent!
Super cool!
Brilliant stuff. You came and nailed the grit! Now when they ask that inevitable question, you can tell 'em!
Exactly! 🙌
Brilliant...heading there this weekend
Enjoy ✊
Excellent video about Trad climbing ethic's.
Awesome 💪🏼😁👍🏼
A modern day 'Hard Grit'. Excellent.
🤘
Amazing! great way to break up my office work! Loved it, thanks.
😁
❤️😀🇬🇧beautiful film
Stunning film, stunning climbing, and not a bad setting huh :)
Thanks Matt!
Very cool 😎
top programme team, loved t Peak climbing from subscribing to Mountain + t bold photo’s thru t 80’s + 90’s from here in NZ, great to see it in a larger format.
Really nice film
Superb short film , shared around to my group, must get back to the peak, easier routes though ;-), congrats to everyone especially Siebe.
class. loved it. wanted another hour or 2. wish Johnny turned up and show them how it's done though 😀
That would have been the cherry on the cake 😂
Gotta say-, Siebbe’s intuitive movement style reminds me of johnny back in the day. I was a hanger on at On The Edge magazine in the early days. Belay slave at Malham, quarries, orme, cloggy, peak, pembroke etc and very happy to be so.
@@susannewilliams Thats a compliment of the highest degree!
@@EpicTV Here is some vintage Johnny, you will see what I mean. ❤👍. ua-cam.com/video/7Vzcn-HUQQ8/v-deo.html
Brilliant.
🤘
I love how they show a full rack at 16:06 only to use 2 of the tiniest pieces on "The master's edge" 🤣
What a great little film, really enjoyed it :-)
👍 thanks for watching!
Really awesome movement grammar you have. Beautiful fluid movement. From a Friend of the Grit who learned to climb at age 15 at Dave in Belgium. 👍🌹
Lovely
Thanks Andre!
Truly truly amazing 👏
This looks like such a great place and love the idea of keeping. In natural and clean for the next
Great filming week put together
Will definitely be one for the future
Nathan
Thanks Nathan!
Nice film. Pete is a beast.
Bloody great, that.
Agreed ✊
“Let’s take a whipper just for fun”
“That’s only in Spain you can do that”
🤣🤣🤣💯
Wow - well done! The essence of climbing is in here somewhere . . .
Great movie!!!
Thanks!
This was great, could have watched hours of it
Always good to leave you wanting more 😁
Top class film
Thanks Alec!
Brilliant vid
👍🙌 thanks Andrew
this is so sick! can't wait to show the oyz boys
😂
You have be very,very good to climb,symple....
Met Siebe at the Rock Ranch in Hueco like, 10 years ago? Super duper nice guy!
Big time 🙌
Yay! Thanks for this!
No problem, glad you enjoyed it!
Amazing film, why wasnt there another 2 hrs of this, in IMAX lol
Anyone know the name of the song at the end sounded epic ?
Ethics don’t matter when you’ve got broken ankles.
According to Google's auto gen. subtitles ''crash pads" are " fresh pets"! :) Great movie!
Fresh pets sounds more like a spotter than a crash pad 😂
What camera did you use for this awesome film?
great movie - more, please! made too light work of the routes, though. Would like to see Siebe get proper pushed on a gritstone route.
Friends of the grit: The Return? 😁
@@EpicTV Revenge of the Grit: No Crack for Old Friends😁
Did I miss equilibrium?
Great Video! What helmet does he have? I can't find that model anywhere.
Thanks Manu, it’s the wild country focus helmet
Beautiful movie. Makes me sort of psyched for trying out trad. But scared shitless as well...
😂 indeed
Are any of the holes or spots for protection manufactured? Like the holes at 18:21?
Yes, they are shot holes that were drilled for blasting when quarrying the gritstone for millstones. I am fairly certain shot holes at Millstone Edge were fired, whereas a lot of early quarrying of gritstone used the ‘plug and feathers’ method. Pretty much all the gritstone edges were quarried to make grinding stones used in mills. This explains the square corners, arêtes and bays. Grind stones, millstones or querns from the edges typically ground corn or other grains but many millstones were also used in crushing lead which was mined throughout Derbyshire, paper making, cotton making (coarse bump cotton), crushing coloured minerals for dying. Millstone Edge was working for millstones into the late 1930s. The symbol of the Peak District National Park is a gritstone millstone.
Where can I find the black helmet?
Did he climb Equilibrium in the end?
All for preserving rock, tradition and all that, but I just cant shake the impression that the it's a degree of glorification of danger in those crazy runouts and chasing E-grades. Of course it takes the mental challenge to a new level, but for me I would never risk my life or health for achieving the next level mental strength when I could get the same sense of accomplishment by reaching a next level of physical strength. Guess that's the difference between me and those guys. In any case - great video!
5:00 Is the stone in the background from a mill?
It is :)
Most of the crags in the peak have them scattered around. It's also where Millstone Edge gets its name. the rock was quarried to make millstones as well as building.
Big up the giggleswick massive. We ouch ere fam.
Big up yourself! 🙌
Love what Dunne said, the rock remains the same, if this area was in the US it would be grid bolted and simply an outdoor climbing gym.
What’s the climb at 5:20 ?
Why It isnt Full screen?
Filmmaker likes his 2.35:1 aspect ratio 😁
@@EpicTV yes, but you can upload this ratio without the Black tags.... Anyway... The video is great!
I'm not a climber, and don't intend to be. But really enjoyed this anyway :)
Thanks for the comment, great to hear this appeals to non climbers! 🙌
Fun little taste of the culture.
Glad u enjoyed it! 😁
How is it a Master's Edge onsight when he goes up with only 2 bits of gear which happen to be the exact right ones?? Surely that's beta and therefore not an onsight.
Edited: spelling error
I suppose if it’s in the guidebook it’s considered fair game. Perhaps he climbed up earlier, checked the gear, downclimbed, picked up the gear he needed and then climbed it.
I thought the same thing.
I mean, all the shot holes at Millstone are the same size so it's entirely possible he checked what size the gear was on a completely separate route, from the ground even.
@@largeformatlandscape Nothing in my guidebook about cam size. I get the climb up and check, but then surely he would've left the gear in and down climbed. I just think he climbed with beta.
@@thesvenvids7708 Why 2 different bits of gear if they're all the same size? And even the best would take up a few possibilities if they eyeballed it from the ground, surely.
Just think it's strange that it's all about ethics and yet it doesn't smell like an onsight.
Thats holds for protection are human made ( min 18 00 to 19 00) , so what is so special on this walls after somebody modify the rock ?
They are shot holes left over from when the crag was quarried for millstones. Millstone Edge was one of the last quarries worked for millstones, I think it was still being worked in the 1930s.
Clearly very much better climbers than I am.
I would be placing a /lot/ more gear. Pointless putting a couple of cams half way up, if you then climb that same distance above them and then fall off. Super splat time.
They would also do that if it was possible. Master's edge is well known for only having those pockets halfway up to place any gear for example.
its all well and good when there has been a few decades gone by and a massive shift in mental and physical training plus all the added benifits of lighter gear and improved friction from chalk and rubber.....pushing the boundaries in the era these routes were first done deserves a lot more respect than watching a present day crusher repeating routes with no mental fragility and possesing the mental advantage that the first ascenionists never had the benifit of...Great video all the same .
Lighter gear?? Its a tiny face. Shorts is all that is needed. Anyone the goes has to find their way up. Same as the first man.
Where are the female climbers?
Making sammiches for when the men are done climbing.
Don’t presume their gender please.
Do not use the word “ethics” for what it just turns out to be risking your life for the fun, with the excuse of self-imposed rules based on not precisely ancient traditions. I much rather prefer the ethics of not ruining the crags, and hence the environment and the landscape, with filthy magnesium.
And, BTW I’m not agains the activity itself. I’m just tired of using the tyranny of the “ethics” as an excuse. Everyone should choose its climbing style, while respecting the environment as much as possible, and without any superior moral that dictates how to do it.
Nearly turned off by the first few minutes of total cringe , thankfully the tea and beer moment got me back . 🤘
Glad u managed to stick it out 💪