I want to thank you for making these videos. 2 years ago I adopted a leash reactive dog. He attacked the wheel of a baby stroller, lunged at bicycles, runners other dogs, and drag me out in traffic. I watched your videos over and over, and took him to the parks where we could stand at a safe distance, and watch bikes go by strollers, and we watched the dogs go in and out of the gate at dog parks. He still has a issue with dogs, mostly off leash dogs. We hike and backpack and just step off the trail for oncoming dogs with mostly no reaction. He jogs with me and cars are no longer an issue. Your videos helped me so much, and he has become an amazing dog!
I would like to thank you for the time and effort you have put in to making videos to help educate the public about reactive dogs. You are really making a difference! Thanks!
Wow, only six comments? This was a great video. Really helped me understand counter conditioning, I used to believe in the whole dominance theory, but have looked into articles online and looked for modern science when it comes to dominance and it's only a myth, anyway i am now into positive reinforcement and i am looking to learn about counter conditioning, i favourited this video and gave it a like. good job guys and thanks !
NotFamousKid good on you for doing the research, and being big enough to admit your previous ideas were wrong and change your mindset! I wish more people would be this open minded.
informative, helpful and easy to follow thank you for taking the time to upload this on UA-cam. I do have a understanding of counter conditioning and desensitisation but with your video has been so refreshing to watch in action.
Thanks Kirby99! Glad you like this video. BTW Email me about the harness and i will detail how to have your dog feel better about putting it on. drayton@urbandawgs.com
My chihuahua acts exactly like your dog did whenever a dog comes by. He's a rescue so it's up to me to re-train-socialize him. I've started some form of conditioning with regards to people and he has been getting better but he lunges at dogs. I'm going to apply these tips soon. Thanks for making this video!
Thank you! Thank you! THANK YOU!!!! I emulated your ninja cookie pusher style, and was able to get my dog INTO the dog park, which is where he wanted to be but poor guy just didn't know what to do with himself when he saw other doggies. I also used your technique, threw out my back a little, but we got through class last week with a WHOLE LOT LESS barking and lunging. There were even SIX separate instances of laying on our side, stretched out like he was on a Caribbean Cruise. By simply changing my technique, I feel like we have gained a hundred miles of progress!!!!
Well, he appears to be a bit of a work in progress. He is a Cattle Dog, they can be very weird. Anyway, we got into the park and he makes friends with other dogs relatively well, he just needs space, time, and encouragement when he is having safe introductions. His confidence grows every day. Since writing my message, we have had to seek assistance from a veterinary behaviorist. They said he will always be unsure about meeting new dogs, but he CAN do it. We just have to be mindful it's a "job" for him, he will never truly enjoy it, and be sure to not overwork him or push him beyond his limits. I'm ok with that, I don't want to meet new people everyday!
Note: we are still doing desensitization and counterconditioning work. We've come a long way, this has been a good exercise in learning patience and celebrating the little steps, lol!
Great video!!! I had no idea I was setting my dog back by "flooding" :( I thought it would be desensitizing her faster. Thanks so much for teaching us how to let our dogs enjoy the world!
Hi Kevin, you're welcome. Happy to hear the video has helped you. Desensitization is the process of gradually decreasing distance or allowing more duration as long as the dog is UNDER THRESHOLD then they are desensitized, if they are continually flooded the could sensitize to the stimuli. When doing on leash counter conditioning even with set ups with known dogs and trusted handlers things can get a bit tricky, so always be conservative and use more distance than you need and just enough duration so the dog is under threshold and being paid food rewards for the exposure. Stay safe and have fun!
Great video! You earned a subscriber. I like the Flooding aspect and explaination. I think I have been making a rookie mistake with my 15 week old australian cattle dog puppy. I leave him in the presence and close to stimuli while treating him. I will try distancing myself and see how it works. What would you recommend for car rides? he has a crazy prey drive and barks at all cars from inside my vehicle. Thanks in advance.
Hi Chris, Thanks for the kind words on the video happy to hear to it has helped. For Prey try this video Urban Produced ua-cam.com/video/Zbvf9S0X-d8/v-deo.html For car rides try a work to eat toy or bully stick to keep your dog's mouth busy.
Urban Dawgs - Postive, Reward-Based Dog Training Just finished watching the video you recommended. Unbelievable man. Similar to what my dog trainer told me to do - use touch to distract. I was making a huge mistake. You live and learn. The mistake was that I was using the same treats I use at home while out on walks and in the face of heavily stimuli. My puppy is so overwhelmed that while on walks, he could care less about the treats I use at home. I have been needing to step up the quality of treats while on walks.
Hi Christopher, Thanks for the kind words and happy you abel a dog trainer that is knowledgeable about counter conditioning. Indeed "food is money" and we control the dogs "economy". It is always good to make the food rewards for outside novel, new and high value! Keep us posted.
This videl is amazing thank you!! The only trouble I have is holding my big Australian Shepherd, as when she does react she is almost too powerful for me, especially if it's sudden. We use the Halti which helps a lot, but have you got anu other advice?
my dog doesnt like the dog harness. as a puppy he had no problem with it until it was to small for him, i guess he wore it a bit too long, but i immediately threw it away when i noticed it was a bit too small. so now i bought him a new one that fits but if i open it as if i wanted to pull it over his head he walks backwards. not even treats help, he only carefully takes a treat when i hold it under the harness and then "flees". how do i make him feel comfortable with the harness again? it is really important to me that his neck(and so his spine) stays healthy, that's why i want him to wear a dog harness while training!
Hi! Great video, thanks! I have a couple of questions - and no one to turn to, because I live in Russia where most dog trainers recommend beating, spiked collars, muzzles or, in best cases, flooding. My 17-month dog is leash-reactive to all kinds of people, other dogs and cars. Off-leash I've socialized her with dogs (and dog owners - she doesn't bark at people when they are with a dog), but she barks at people off-leash as well. I am definitely going to try your method, but there is a catch: I'm not the only person who walks this dog. Should I become the only person (100% is not possible technically, but I can walk her more than I do know) who walks it? If I don't, will every walk with the other person set back everything that was achieved when the dog is with me? Thank you.
Hi Svetlana, Thanks for the kind words. So sorry you have no one to turn to. If you would like a more in depth discussion email me. Info@urbandawgs.com and I will ask you some questions. To answer your question if the other people walking the dog are not going to be on the sam page and use counter condition then yes if possible you should be the one one that walks the dog. It needs to be a team effort for better results.
Hi Shar B, Thanks for the kind words on the video! So happy that it has helped you get better at counter conditioning. The harness we recommend is The Freedom Harness by 2Hounds.
+Urban Dawgs - Postive, Reward-Based Dog Training thank you for getting back in touch, my dog is due for a new hardness and I liked the look of the one in the video looks pretty strong just what he needs. Keep up the good work that your doing.
Hi there! Great video, I am definitely going to try out your methods. We have a 7month old Amstafs that's quite stressful when we go on walks. We live in the inner city so there's a lot of impulses and she basically pulls herself in the direction of our home most of the time. We use a normal leash that's just loose enough around her neck so she can't pull her head out of it. I see you use a harness in this video and it looks way more efficient than what we're using. But I've heard it tends to stimulate the pulling as it is easier for dogs to pull with their chest and shoulders then just with their necks, especially American staffords. Our dog is already pulling a lot when we walk so I'm not really sure what kind of leash to go for. What are your thoughts on this?
Hi there, Thanks of the kind words. Glad you found the info useful. The Freedom Harness by 2Hounds is the best one on the market. It has a front and back clip. Harnesses do not cause pulling, scent, wanting to make contact, stress, fear and excitement cause pulling. You want all the pressure off the dogs neck, as that can cause both health and behavior issues.
Thank you for all your helpful videos. I just shared this to my community page, where we share stories about Missy and also share information about how to help our reactive dogs. Thanks so much. - 'Mission Successful - Missy Found A Home' (Community Facebook Page)
Thanks for watching! All dogs are food motivated. Typically when dogs are not food motivated they are stressed, fearful, distracted or when on leash perhaps choose scent as reinforcement.The video you are commenting on has edited footage of various dogs being shown as an example of how to counter condition dogs to stimuli that causes them to react by lunging and or barking. When the YES & TREAT protocol is done properly dogs will develop an "auto disengage". ALL behavior change on leash or otherwise, has to come from some form of reinforcement, on leash it is food, distance, scent, of perhaps when applicable getting to greet people or dogs. ALL dogs need to eat, and the dogs at these training session were no exceptions, and they food they received was part of their daily food intake, there was no "continuously pumping treats into the dog", the dog was marked with a stimulus bridge the word YES for orienting to stimulus and issued a food reward, thus lowering stress, creating a positive association and creating an auto disengage. Plus fear trumps food, so food is always a good gauge to see how stressed many dogs are that have leash reactivity.
I want to thank you for making these videos. 2 years ago I adopted a leash reactive dog. He attacked the wheel of a baby stroller, lunged at bicycles, runners other dogs, and drag me out in traffic. I watched your videos over and over, and took him to the parks where we could stand at a safe distance, and watch bikes go by strollers, and we watched the dogs go in and out of the gate at dog parks. He still has a issue with dogs, mostly off leash dogs. We hike and backpack and just step off the trail for oncoming dogs with mostly no reaction. He jogs with me and cars are no longer an issue. Your videos helped me so much, and he has become an amazing dog!
I would like to thank you for the time and effort you have put in to making videos to help educate the public about reactive dogs. You are really making a difference! Thanks!
Such a wonderfully clear explanation of DS/CC. I am surpized too that there haven't been more comments. Thank you Urban Dogs!
This is the best video and advice for helping my dog that I have ever seen! Thank you!
You're welcome and thank you!
This is one of the best videos I have seen on the subject.
I really wish you had more. I would pay for them.
Thank you!
Wow, only six comments? This was a great video. Really helped me understand counter conditioning, I used to believe in the whole dominance theory, but have looked into articles online and looked for modern science when it comes to dominance and it's only a myth, anyway i am now into positive reinforcement and i am looking to learn about counter conditioning, i favourited this video and gave it a like. good job guys and thanks !
Thanks. Glad you found the positive reward based path to training dogs!
NotFamousKid good on you for doing the research, and being big enough to admit your previous ideas were wrong and change your mindset! I wish more people would be this open minded.
Great video, wish everyone would watch these, keep them coming!
informative, helpful and easy to follow thank you for taking the time to upload this on UA-cam. I do have a understanding of counter conditioning and desensitisation but with your video has been so refreshing to watch in action.
Thanks for laying this out in a clear and concise manner!
Great presentation!
Excellent video, thank you.
you look like a ninja!! this is very detailed! i like the scientifical aspect of your video.
Thanks Kirby99! Glad you like this video. BTW Email me about the harness and i will detail how to have your dog feel better about putting it on. drayton@urbandawgs.com
My chihuahua acts exactly like your dog did whenever a dog comes by. He's a rescue so it's up to me to re-train-socialize him. I've started some form of conditioning with regards to people and he has been getting better but he lunges at dogs. I'm going to apply these tips soon. Thanks for making this video!
Finally a man that does not resort to shock..uh ecollars. This is the correct method to teach dogs, instead of manhandled them.
Hell, its worth a try. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Great video , good explanation
Thanks!
fantastic video
Thanks.
Thanks!
I love this video and would love to share with my clients
This is so helpful, my dog developed reactivity to people after a few bad experiences with people in the past and this is so encouraging!
Brilliant video x
Thanks for the kind words. So happy you enjoyed the video!
I'm asd and do behaviour in UK. I love the narration and it's realistic. Just brill 😊
Thanks!
I will certainly be recommending my clients to view this. Thank you!
Thank you! Thank you! THANK YOU!!!! I emulated your ninja cookie pusher style, and was able to get my dog INTO the dog park, which is where he wanted to be but poor guy just didn't know what to do with himself when he saw other doggies. I also used your technique, threw out my back a little, but we got through class last week with a WHOLE LOT LESS barking and lunging. There were even SIX separate instances of laying on our side, stretched out like he was on a Caribbean Cruise. By simply changing my technique, I feel like we have gained a hundred miles of progress!!!!
+KB Miller How did he do in the dog park? Over stimulated?
Well, he appears to be a bit of a work in progress. He is a Cattle Dog, they can be very weird. Anyway, we got into the park and he makes friends with other dogs relatively well, he just needs space, time, and encouragement when he is having safe introductions. His confidence grows every day. Since writing my message, we have had to seek assistance from a veterinary behaviorist. They said he will always be unsure about meeting new dogs, but he CAN do it. We just have to be mindful it's a "job" for him, he will never truly enjoy it, and be sure to not overwork him or push him beyond his limits. I'm ok with that, I don't want to meet new people everyday!
Note: we are still doing desensitization and counterconditioning work. We've come a long way, this has been a good exercise in learning patience and celebrating the little steps, lol!
Nice to hear KB, keep up the great work! Thanks for the kind words on the video.
Great video!!! I had no idea I was setting my dog back by "flooding" :( I thought it would be desensitizing her faster. Thanks so much for teaching us how to let our dogs enjoy the world!
Hi Kevin, you're welcome. Happy to hear the video has helped you. Desensitization is the process of gradually decreasing distance or allowing more duration as long as the dog is UNDER THRESHOLD then they are desensitized, if they are continually flooded the could sensitize to the stimuli. When doing on leash counter conditioning even with set ups with known dogs and trusted handlers things can get a bit tricky, so always be conservative and use more distance than you need and just enough duration so the dog is under threshold and being paid food rewards for the exposure. Stay safe and have fun!
Impressive video! I'm going to share it with my "growly dog" group....
Awesome video, we need more trainers like you!
Great video! You earned a subscriber. I like the Flooding aspect and explaination. I think I have been making a rookie mistake with my 15 week old australian cattle dog puppy. I leave him in the presence and close to stimuli while treating him. I will try distancing myself and see how it works. What would you recommend for car rides? he has a crazy prey drive and barks at all cars from inside my vehicle. Thanks in advance.
Hi Chris, Thanks for the kind words on the video happy to hear to it has helped. For Prey try this video Urban Produced ua-cam.com/video/Zbvf9S0X-d8/v-deo.html
For car rides try a work to eat toy or bully stick to keep your dog's mouth busy.
Urban Dawgs - Postive, Reward-Based Dog Training Just finished watching the video you recommended. Unbelievable man. Similar to what my dog trainer told me to do - use touch to distract. I was making a huge mistake. You live and learn. The mistake was that I was using the same treats I use at home while out on walks and in the face of heavily stimuli. My puppy is so overwhelmed that while on walks, he could care less about the treats I use at home. I have been needing to step up the quality of treats while on walks.
Hi Christopher, Thanks for the kind words and happy you abel a dog trainer that is knowledgeable about counter conditioning. Indeed "food is money" and we control the dogs "economy". It is always good to make the food rewards for outside novel, new and high value! Keep us posted.
Great video, what harness are you using on the dogs? Thank you!
This videl is amazing thank you!! The only trouble I have is holding my big Australian Shepherd, as when she does react she is almost too powerful for me, especially if it's sudden. We use the Halti which helps a lot, but have you got anu other advice?
thank you for showing your mistake. It helps to prevent our own mistakes. Things do happen... +1 video
This is at least 20 kinds of AWESOME! I even like dude's ninja style technique!
Thanks!
my dog doesnt like the dog harness. as a puppy he had no problem with it until it was to small for him, i guess he wore it a bit too long, but i immediately threw it away when i noticed it was a bit too small. so now i bought him a new one that fits but if i open it as if i wanted to pull it over his head he walks backwards. not even treats help, he only carefully takes a treat when i hold it under the harness and then "flees". how do i make him feel comfortable with the harness again? it is really important to me that his neck(and so his spine) stays healthy, that's why i want him to wear a dog harness while training!
Hi Kirby, Email is the best way to address this question. info@urbandawgs.com
Hi! Great video, thanks! I have a couple of questions - and no one to turn to, because I live in Russia where most dog trainers recommend beating, spiked collars, muzzles or, in best cases, flooding. My 17-month dog is leash-reactive to all kinds of people, other dogs and cars. Off-leash I've socialized her with dogs (and dog owners - she doesn't bark at people when they are with a dog), but she barks at people off-leash as well. I am definitely going to try your method, but there is a catch: I'm not the only person who walks this dog. Should I become the only person (100% is not possible technically, but I can walk her more than I do know) who walks it? If I don't, will every walk with the other person set back everything that was achieved when the dog is with me? Thank you.
Hi Svetlana, Thanks for the kind words. So sorry you have no one to turn to. If you would like a more in depth discussion email me. Info@urbandawgs.com and I will ask you some questions. To answer your question if the other people walking the dog are not going to be on the sam page and use counter condition then yes if possible you should be the one one that walks the dog. It needs to be a team effort for better results.
does anyone know where I can get a hardness like the one the dog is wearing?
Hi Shar B, Thanks for the kind words on the video! So happy that it has helped you get better at counter conditioning. The harness we recommend is The Freedom Harness by 2Hounds.
+Urban Dawgs - Postive, Reward-Based Dog Training thank you for getting back in touch, my dog is due for a new hardness and I liked the look of the one in the video looks pretty strong just what he needs. Keep up the good work that your doing.
Hi there! Great video, I am definitely going to try out your methods. We have a 7month old Amstafs that's quite stressful when we go on walks. We live in the inner city so there's a lot of impulses and she basically pulls herself in the direction of our home most of the time. We use a normal leash that's just loose enough around her neck so she can't pull her head out of it. I see you use a harness in this video and it looks way more efficient than what we're using. But I've heard it tends to stimulate the pulling as it is easier for dogs to pull with their chest and shoulders then just with their necks, especially American staffords. Our dog is already pulling a lot when we walk so I'm not really sure what kind of leash to go for. What are your thoughts on this?
Hi there, Thanks of the kind words. Glad you found the info useful. The Freedom Harness by 2Hounds is the best one on the market. It has a front and back clip. Harnesses do not cause pulling, scent, wanting to make contact, stress, fear and excitement cause pulling. You want all the pressure off the dogs neck, as that can cause both health and behavior issues.
Also puppies need positive exposure while little, so they are socialized.
Thank you for all your helpful videos. I just shared this to my community page, where we share stories about Missy and also share information about how to help our reactive dogs. Thanks so much. - 'Mission Successful - Missy Found A Home' (Community Facebook Page)
Thanks for the kind words. So happy you found the videos useful.
It looks like they're using the Freedom No Pull Harness, but I'm not sure~
At 9.52 great anticipation.
Don’t you just create another problem by continuously pumping treats into the dog. My dog isn’t food driven and I don’t want him to be
Thanks for watching! All dogs are food motivated. Typically when dogs are not food motivated they are stressed, fearful, distracted or when on leash perhaps choose scent as reinforcement.The video you are commenting on has edited footage of various dogs being shown as an example of how to counter condition dogs to stimuli that causes them to react by lunging and or barking. When the YES & TREAT protocol is done properly dogs will develop an "auto disengage". ALL behavior change on leash or otherwise, has to come from some form of reinforcement, on leash it is food, distance, scent, of perhaps when applicable getting to greet people or dogs. ALL dogs need to eat, and the dogs at these training session were no exceptions, and they food they received was part of their daily food intake, there was no "continuously pumping treats into the dog", the dog was marked with a stimulus bridge the word YES for orienting to stimulus and issued a food reward, thus lowering stress, creating a positive association and creating an auto disengage. Plus fear trumps food, so food is always a good gauge to see how stressed many dogs are that have leash reactivity.
Excellent video, thank you.
Thanks glad you liked the video!