This is the only video that accurately describes the versions, and makes it simple by discussing the knurled knobs. Most "experts" say you can't replace or clean up the focusing screen on the FM, I'd like to see a how-to video!
I've had two FMs. The first I bought in June 1978. It's long gone. My current FM is version 3. Thanks for the info! Plus I can clean the focus screen now. My first FM got really dusty.
Thanks for the clear explanation. Saw a mint one knurled knob version for 150 on eBay. Snatched it after I saw your vid. Interesting thing is I also saw a two knurled knob version which also has a serial starting from 3. Also additional piece of information I saw on forum: the newer versions(not sure exactly which one) does not have the dreaded foam seal at the far end of the mirror. Which is a pain to replace.
Thank you, agree with the 3 version - I had a new one in 1982 - my first proper camera - but dropped it on its first outing! (write-off). Since then I have always used a strap or a wrist lanyard.
Haha, you made me laugh when you said. "Now you may say, who cares? Knurled or not knurled knobs, does it make any difference? The answer is. Yes." You read my mind exactly! Very informative vid, thank you.
Thank you for this information. By chance, I just bought a mint-condition FM with serial number beginning with 3. I bought my first Nikon FM in 1980 and then several FM2s, after 1982. It accompanied me on many adventures and always performed flawlessly. It helped me launch my professional career. I also owned an MD 12 winder. Of course, this latest acquisition (about which I made a video recently) has the single knurled ASA/shutter speed dial. I just put the first roll of film through it and all seems to work perfectly.
Fine video, nuggets of good info contained. Recently got 3rd version in great shape, but, as left eye user, have bit of inconvenience(not hardship) due to the advance lever sticking out during a shoot. Pokes me in right eye area. Thought of getting a 1st version which can be shot with lever folded; however, your comment on better quality of the 3rd version made a point, especially since it will not be as old as the 1st. So will will stay the course with #3. Thanks.
Great video! I had noticed these differences amongst models too but I couldn’t find any explanations online, except now for your video. One extra distinction I found- I believe the 3 knurled knob camera is the only version to have “Nikon” etched above the serial number. The font matches what appeared on nameplate of the Nikon F.
Thank you for this information. I prefer the first version because you can shoot in portrait orientation with the advance lever in its locked position. You cannot do that with version three and that means the lever prevents you from bringing your eye close to the viewfinder. I am not sure if version two is the same. Anyway, this was an interesting lesson!
Thank you for your input. I didn't realize this difference until reading your comment. I went back to my FM and noticed that indeed the last version needs the lever open in order to shoot. However, I didn't feel that hinders shooting vertically (portrait orientation) though.
Thank you very much for the presentation and it’s very informative. I keep Nikon mechanical cameras since 1980, but I am not a collector. I have the F, F2AS, FM, FE, FM2, FM2N, FM2T, FA, & FG (of course the FE, FA, & FG are electronic shutters). I don’t use any of them nowadays, but I enjoy playing and cleaning every once in a while. Have a great day. Almost forget to mention that I also have 2 FM3A, one silver and one black. I bought them brand new and never use them, not once!
I have a Nikon FM which I purchased new in 1980 along with a Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AI lens to go with it. Mine is the 'series 3' (that is; serial number starting with '3'). The surround for the shutter release is not knurled; Nikon did away with the shutter release lock around the shutter release button in the '3' series serial number version. An excellent camera mine still looks and operates like new. I was not aware however that the focusing screen is removable it's not an issue however the supplied focusing screen is excellent.
Hello . Great review . I have the early 3 knurled version with the engraved Nikon mark on top of the SN . Because on ability to take a photo in closed lever , i prefer it over the third version. The ability to change the focus screen may be an advantage for technicians . Regards. Mohammad
Thank you for this video, I've been wondering why the pictures I have been seeing of some FM's are different from my FM which now thanks to your video I know is the 3rd revision. Also, it's great to know that I can clean the focusing screen on this very easily as there is some dust trapped on it
@andrewtongue7084 0 seconds ago I have the two knurled version, which is problematic in that the focusing screen is hard to access. I may have to find a third iteration (the single) so that focus screen replacement or refurbishment is easier. Thank you for your clarity, Sir !
VERY helpful, thank you. I purchased a FM this week. Can you speak to what years/serial number cameras have the Nikon script on the back above the serial number?
The first 120,000 or so FMs made, starting at s/n 2100001, were the knurled rewind knob variant. The change to the smooth knob variant happened somewhere between s/n 2218529 and 2233104. One could plausibly argue either way whether or not having the knurled rewind knob technically counts as a seperate variant since it is purely cosmetic. The debate continues.
Thank you for this great Video. I had no idea about 3 versions. Now i know, I bought the second Version and tried to assemble with my old MD-12 - it didnt work. I thougt something was defective. With your information i changed the position of the release button and it works perfectly - thank you. So i can say - in this case - is no difference between MD-11 and MD-12 - you have adjust the knob on both MDs if you have 1. or 2. version. You so are right - the Screw is very important. P.S. are you shure, that you not have loosened the lock before mounting an old lens - that seemed a bit heavy.
Thank you for this informative video. I've just bought a FM (mk3) in the chrome finish and it's in close to mint condition and although it needs the light seals replacing as you'd expect for the age of the camera. I was a little worried about the the focus screen as it would need cleaning as well so thanks for that tip on the screw to remove it which is the same as the FG and as I've a couple of them there shouldn't be any problem removing it for cleaning. But how can you tell the exact age of manufacturer as there's no code in the film cassette compartment as you have shown in one of your other videos.
Thank you for your comment! Yes, replacing the focusing screen shouldn’t be a problem. As to the exact manufacturing year, I really don’t know any way determine for FM, without the code. For some cameras (e.g., F, F2, F3) can be determined by serial number, but that’s based on tremendous number of existing data. We don’t have that kind of data for FM. The best estimate I can have is that for the 3rd version is between 1979 to 1982, since this is the period when the 3rd version was manufactured.
Thank you for the great video. I recently bought my first FM, its version 1 as it has the three grooved knobs, also to complement the info, mine has above the model (FM 2xxxxxxx) the brand Nikon stamped. I cant attach the photo, but if you want it please let me know in this comment. Thank you for the video!! :)
I seem to have a single knurled knob fm (serial number starts with 3 and it only has one knurled knob on the shutter speed dial) however, mine does not seem to have the screw to change the focus screen - kinda curious as to why.
It seems that the last, signle-knurled-knob, version comes with a rubber edge circle of the viewfinder. Any other differences between those series besides the first edition enabling shooting with the rewind lever and having the "Nikon" etched with serial number? Also, could you explain what you meant by saying that "Nikon improved the internal structure" thus making the last edition the most reliable? Do you have any knowledge of the internal changes that happened in the signle-knurled-knob version? Thank you very much for the informative video!
Thank you for your comment. I believe all versions of FM have the rubber edged eye piece on the view finder when they were new. As to the saying “Nikon improved the internal structure”, you can reference Wikipedia en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_FM “Nippon Kogaku also took the opportunity to construct late FMs more strongly internally than early FMs.”
Great video, very interesting thank you. I recently bought my first 2 Nikon SLR's and one was an FM... luckily it was a later/single knurled version. I wonder if you know much about Nikon EL2? if there a way to change the focus screen like this too...
@@riversky33 Thank you. That explains why my Nikon EL has the screen WITHOUT the split image screen, the middle circle is just a microprism only. Some must have changed it out before.... So do the EL/EL2/FM use the same screens? As in for which model camera do they use (eg: for fm3a, f2? etc) ? thank you
Hello @ riversky33, I would like to thank you very much for your help, it has helped me to know that my Nikon FM is version 3 (it only has a ring with marks). I would like to ask you a question. My Nikon FM had a hit on the top cover and I bought a new top cover on eBay. After watching your video I noticed that this top cover has the shutter button with markings (so this cover belonged to a first or second version Nikon FM). Will this cover work for my 3rd Nikon FM version?
There is slight difference in the shutter release slot. I have not tried if it will fit or not. I hope a professional repair expert can answer this question.
I am surprised you didn't break the ai tab on the camera you didn't move tab back before putting on the non ai lens on , there is a release button to move tab out of the way!
Thank you for pointing it out! I think I had the AI tab flipped up so it won't block the non-AI lens. Of course the AI lens wont' engage the AI tab when it's flipped up.
I'm sorry but you have just demonstrated how NOT to mount a non-AI lens onto a Nikon FM. The reason why the FM accepts non-AI lenses is because the AI aperture tab can be moved out of the way by pressing the button next to the tab. By not moving the AI tab you run the risk of breaking the tab when locking the non-AI lens into place. The reason why the FM2 does not accept non-AI lenses is because? .... ......It does not have an aperture tab capable of being moved out of the way. There is no release button for the tab on the FM2. Also, you didn't mention an important difference between the 1st version FM and the other versions. Version 1 (serial number begins with 2) is the only version which allows shutter release with the wind on lever in the "closed" position. This is important to people like me who are 'left eye' shooters.
The Ai Tab with its release button is exactly the same on my Nikon Df (FX digital) and its one of the main reasons I bought it as I have lots of Ai and Ais plus pre-Ai lenses, after I'd been using it for a couple of months I found out you can buy a Nikon K3 screen and have it fitted to your Df and you use your manual focus Nikon lenses in the traditional way because it's got split image and microprism focusing ability as well as the green dot focusing aid that's normally used with Nikon Auto Focus Lenses!!
I have seen this video roughly 20 times because it's about this beautiful camera and your narration is so clear and informative.Thank you
Thank you for your nice comment!
Most welcome.
This is the only video that accurately describes the versions, and makes it simple by discussing the knurled knobs.
Most "experts" say you can't replace or clean up the focusing screen on the FM, I'd like to see a how-to video!
I've had two FMs. The first I bought in June 1978. It's long gone. My current FM is version 3. Thanks for the info! Plus I can clean the focus screen now. My first FM got really dusty.
Thanks for the clear explanation. Saw a mint one knurled knob version for 150 on eBay. Snatched it after I saw your vid. Interesting thing is I also saw a two knurled knob version which also has a serial starting from 3. Also additional piece of information I saw on forum: the newer versions(not sure exactly which one) does not have the dreaded foam seal at the far end of the mirror. Which is a pain to replace.
Thank you for the information!
thanks for the video . i have a Nikon FM but i've never checked to see what version i have but i will now .
Mine just came today! Thank you for clarifying the different versions. I have version 3.
Thank you for your nice comment!
Thank you, agree with the 3 version - I had a new one in 1982 - my first proper camera - but dropped it on its first outing! (write-off). Since then I have always used a strap or a wrist lanyard.
Haha, you made me laugh when you said. "Now you may say, who cares? Knurled or not knurled knobs, does it make any difference? The answer is. Yes." You read my mind exactly! Very informative vid, thank you.
Nikki Johnson Thank you!
Thank you for this information. By chance, I just bought a mint-condition FM with serial number beginning with 3. I bought my first Nikon FM in 1980 and then several FM2s, after 1982. It accompanied me on many adventures and always performed flawlessly. It helped me launch my professional career. I also owned an MD 12 winder. Of course, this latest acquisition (about which I made a video recently) has the single knurled ASA/shutter speed dial. I just put the first roll of film through it and all seems to work perfectly.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Fine video, nuggets of good info contained. Recently got 3rd version in great shape, but, as left eye user, have bit of inconvenience(not hardship) due to the advance lever sticking out during a shoot. Pokes me in right eye area. Thought of getting a 1st version which can be shot with lever folded; however, your comment on better quality of the 3rd version made a point, especially since it will not be as old as the 1st. So will will stay the course with #3. Thanks.
Thank you for your comment.
Back then, I traded my first gen FM for a FE2 that had the same issue with the lever and I fixed it by adding the motor drive.
Buy a motor drive for it.
Great video! I had noticed these differences amongst models too but I couldn’t find any explanations online, except now for your video. One extra distinction I found- I believe the 3 knurled knob camera is the only version to have “Nikon” etched above the serial number. The font matches what appeared on nameplate of the Nikon F.
You are right. Thanks.
Thank you for this information. I prefer the first version because you can shoot in portrait orientation with the advance lever in its locked position. You cannot do that with version three and that means the lever prevents you from bringing your eye close to the viewfinder. I am not sure if version two is the same. Anyway, this was an interesting lesson!
Thank you for your input. I didn't realize this difference until reading your comment. I went back to my FM and noticed that indeed the last version needs the lever open in order to shoot. However, I didn't feel that hinders shooting vertically (portrait orientation) though.
Thank you very much for the presentation and it’s very informative. I keep Nikon mechanical cameras since 1980, but I am not a collector. I have the F, F2AS, FM, FE, FM2, FM2N, FM2T, FA, & FG (of course the FE, FA, & FG are electronic shutters). I don’t use any of them nowadays, but I enjoy playing and cleaning every once in a while. Have a great day. Almost forget to mention that I also have 2 FM3A, one silver and one black. I bought them brand new and never use them, not once!
Collecting Nikon is a joy. You never have too many Nikons!
Nikon FM - my first Nikon camera.
Hi there. Before putting the old pre AI lens, you have to lift the tab of the photometer on the body ring and measure stop down.
I bought my FM (version 2) 2nd hand in 1990s, never let me down. Remains my go-to 35mm SLR. They all seam bullet proof.
Thank you for your input. I think Nikon is the best in terms of pure mechanical SLRs.
I have a Nikon FM which I purchased new in 1980 along with a Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AI lens to go with it. Mine is the 'series 3' (that is; serial number starting with '3'). The surround for the shutter release is not knurled; Nikon did away with the shutter release lock around the shutter release button in the '3' series serial number version. An excellent camera mine still looks and operates like new. I was not aware however that the focusing screen is removable it's not an issue however the supplied focusing screen is excellent.
Hello . Great review . I have the early 3 knurled version with the engraved Nikon mark on top of the SN . Because on ability to take a photo in closed lever , i prefer it over the third version. The ability to change the focus screen may be an advantage for technicians .
Regards.
Mohammad
Good point! Thank you!
Thank you for this video, I've been wondering why the pictures I have been seeing of some FM's are different from my FM which now thanks to your video I know is the 3rd revision. Also, it's great to know that I can clean the focusing screen on this very easily as there is some dust trapped on it
Thank you for your nice comment. I am glad that the video is helpful.
@andrewtongue7084
0 seconds ago
I have the two knurled version, which is problematic in that the focusing screen is hard to access. I may have to find a third iteration (the single) so that focus screen replacement or refurbishment is easier. Thank you for your clarity, Sir !
Thank you. This answers my question. I have version 3.
VERY helpful, thank you. I purchased a FM this week.
Can you speak to what years/serial number cameras have the Nikon script on the back above the serial number?
I just checked my FM after watching this video. It's version 1 (everything knurled). Since it's the rare one, you can have it for one million dollars.
Now I know my FM is the 2nd version. Thank you sir! 🙏
Thank you for your comment.
Very instructive....... and now I know that I have the final #3, serial number version!
Thank you!
Thank you!
The first 120,000 or so FMs made, starting at s/n 2100001, were the knurled rewind knob variant. The change to the smooth knob variant happened somewhere between s/n 2218529 and 2233104. One could plausibly argue either way whether or not having the knurled rewind knob technically counts as a seperate variant since it is purely cosmetic. The debate continues.
Thank you for the valuable information.
My serial# is 2398502 and it's still three knurled knobs.
My serial is 2328386 and it has the Nikon brand over the SN with all three knurled knobs
Thanks!!! your vídeo is very good, teach me a lot about the FM, now i know how to try to realese the focus screen. Thanks again.
You are welcome. And thank you for your comment.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. What about Nikon f? And nikormat?
Thank you for this great Video. I had no idea about 3 versions. Now i know, I bought the second Version and tried to assemble with my old MD-12 - it didnt work. I thougt something was defective. With your information i changed the position of the release button and it works perfectly - thank you. So i can say - in this case - is no difference between MD-11 and MD-12 - you have adjust the knob on both MDs if you have 1. or 2. version. You so are right - the Screw is very important. P.S. are you shure, that you not have loosened the lock before mounting an old lens - that seemed a bit heavy.
Good to hear that your MD-12 works. You don’t have to press the lock button to mount any Nikon lens.
Thank you for this informative video. I've just bought a FM (mk3) in the chrome finish and it's in close to mint condition and although it needs the light seals replacing as you'd expect for the age of the camera. I was a little worried about the the focus screen as it would need cleaning as well so thanks for that tip on the screw to remove it which is the same as the FG and as I've a couple of them there shouldn't be any problem removing it for cleaning. But how can you tell the exact age of manufacturer as there's no code in the film cassette compartment as you have shown in one of your other videos.
Thank you for your comment! Yes, replacing the focusing screen shouldn’t be a problem. As to the exact manufacturing year, I really don’t know any way determine for FM, without the code. For some cameras (e.g., F, F2, F3) can be determined by serial number, but that’s based on tremendous number of existing data. We don’t have that kind of data for FM. The best estimate I can have is that for the 3rd version is between 1979 to 1982, since this is the period when the 3rd version was manufactured.
@riversky33 thanks for getting back to me. Yes it's probably 79 or 80 because its a lower number 3076xxx. Just curious, but thanks anyway.
I wonder, did Nikon improve the internals on third version because of md12 motor drive ?
Great and useful video.
Does the Nikon FG20 like the Nikon FM accept all types of lenses?
I still use fg20 since 1987 and f70 since 1996.
No. FG-20 is like FM2 in lens acceptance.
@@riversky33 so do Nikon FM accept F mount nikkor lens
@@RedHell2884 yes
Nikon F mount has many variations. Please see my other video: ua-cam.com/video/tRZnzZIUpbQ/v-deo.html.
@@riversky33 ok
知乎上经常看的大佬竟然在UA-cam刷到了！点赞关注支持！
Thank you!
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
You are welcome. And thank you for your comment.
Would you say the Nikon FM? is more reliable and serviceable than the Nikon FE2? I’m thinking of buying one
Thank you for the great video.
I recently bought my first FM, its version 1 as it has the three grooved knobs, also to complement the info, mine has above the model (FM 2xxxxxxx) the brand Nikon stamped. I cant attach the photo, but if you want it please let me know in this comment.
Thank you for the video!! :)
Thank you so much!
.... very informative .... Thankyou
Thank you for your nice comment!
I seem to have a single knurled knob fm (serial number starts with 3 and it only has one knurled knob on the shutter speed dial) however, mine does not seem to have the screw to change the focus screen - kinda curious as to why.
It seems that the last, signle-knurled-knob, version comes with a rubber edge circle of the viewfinder. Any other differences between those series besides the first edition enabling shooting with the rewind lever and having the "Nikon" etched with serial number? Also, could you explain what you meant by saying that "Nikon improved the internal structure" thus making the last edition the most reliable? Do you have any knowledge of the internal changes that happened in the signle-knurled-knob version? Thank you very much for the informative video!
Thank you for your comment. I believe all versions of FM have the rubber edged eye piece on the view finder when they were new. As to the saying “Nikon improved the internal structure”, you can reference Wikipedia en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_FM “Nippon Kogaku also took the opportunity to construct late FMs more strongly internally than early FMs.”
Great video, very interesting thank you. I recently bought my first 2 Nikon SLR's and one was an FM... luckily it was a later/single knurled version. I wonder if you know much about Nikon EL2? if there a way to change the focus screen like this too...
Yes, Nikon EL2 also has a screw above the mirror, just like the last version of FM, for changing focusing screen.
And same with Nikkormat EL. Nikkormat FTN/FT2/FT3 have two screws.
@@riversky33 Thank you. That explains why my Nikon EL has the screen WITHOUT the split image screen, the middle circle is just a microprism only. Some must have changed it out before.... So do the EL/EL2/FM use the same screens? As in for which model camera do they use (eg: for fm3a, f2? etc) ? thank you
@@mrbrakelol EL/EL2 do not share focusing screen with FM/FM2/FM3a. FM series and FE series and FA share focusing screen.
@@riversky33 Thank you!
Great information, very good video!!
Hello @ riversky33, I would like to thank you very much for your help, it has helped me to know that my Nikon FM is version 3 (it only has a ring with marks).
I would like to ask you a question.
My Nikon FM had a hit on the top cover and I bought a new top cover on eBay. After watching your video I noticed that this top cover has the shutter button with markings (so this cover belonged to a first or second version Nikon FM).
Will this cover work for my 3rd Nikon FM version?
There is slight difference in the shutter release slot. I have not tried if it will fit or not. I hope a professional repair expert can answer this question.
Great video, sir.
Thank you!
Wow Awesome 💯
Interesting.
Thank you!
I am surprised you didn't break the ai tab on the camera you didn't move tab back before putting on the non ai lens on , there is a release button to move tab out of the way!
Thank you for pointing it out! I think I had the AI tab flipped up so it won't block the non-AI lens. Of course the AI lens wont' engage the AI tab when it's flipped up.
very useful! :)
I'm sorry but you have just demonstrated how NOT to mount a non-AI lens onto a Nikon FM.
The reason why the FM accepts non-AI lenses is because the AI aperture tab can be moved out of the way by pressing the button next to the tab. By not moving the AI tab you run the risk of breaking the tab when locking the non-AI lens into place.
The reason why the FM2 does not accept non-AI lenses is because? ....
......It does not have an aperture tab capable of being moved out of the way. There is no release button for the tab on the FM2.
Also, you didn't mention an important difference between the 1st version FM and the other versions.
Version 1 (serial number begins with 2) is the only version which allows shutter release with the wind on lever in the "closed" position. This is important to people like me who are 'left eye' shooters.
You are right. Thank you for your comment!
The Ai Tab with its release button is exactly the same on my Nikon Df (FX digital) and its one of the main reasons I bought it as I have lots of Ai and Ais plus pre-Ai lenses, after I'd been using it for a couple of months I found out you can buy a Nikon K3 screen and have it fitted to your Df and you use your manual focus Nikon lenses in the traditional way because it's got split image and microprism focusing ability as well as the green dot focusing aid that's normally used with Nikon Auto Focus Lenses!!
That was also some force needed to mount the non ai i thought something was wrong...