Okay to run RV fridge using inverter while moving?
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- Опубліковано 26 чер 2014
- In this episode of Ask the RV Expert, RVtravel.com technical editor Chris Dougherty talks with Xantrex Program Manager Rob Heckenask about the feasibility of running an RV's refrigerator off an inverter while moving. Be sure to subscribe to this channel for more helpful videos like this.
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The solution is so simple! While parked and the fridge is running on shore power or propane, you load the freezer door up with water bottles and freeze them. Time to travel? Drop a couple down below, leave a couple in the freezer. Best part is you can still drink nice cold water when they melt. Also make sure all your food and drinks are cold in the fridge before you go. Those cold Cokes and beers will do a lot to keep the lettuce fresh. It's all about getting it cold before you go. I run my fridge fully loaded for at least a day before I move, and have never had a problem.
👍I’m researching this topic because I just realized it’s something I need to know for if/when I get an RV. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. 💞
Good video. What’s your thoughts on this? While driving, turn off the propane tank. Then plug in the AC 110 plug into a 12 volt to 110 volt inverter connected to the house battery ( that technically are being recharged by the engine alternator) thereby eliminating the chance of a propane fire. This would only be used while driving. Could run a generator but that burns extra gasoline. And if one have Solar, that too on a sunny drive will also keep the batteries charged/ topped off and the refrigerator running even at max if necessary.
In my trailer that I used to have, I installed 400 watts of solar to keep my batteries charged a 1500 watt inverter with an automatic transfer switch installed a sub panel, pulled the plugs circuit and the microwave circuit to run those off the inverter. Never had any issues with battery drain, but pulling the fridge over to inverter so that I can run it off the invert while driving is something I wanted to do. Just never did before I sold it. With the right solar setup (enough watts and incoming amperage) this is something that should be very doable. You just need to make sure your setup is correct to handle the loads.
all the talk about disconnecting the trailer and battery banks was not really needed, The question was "while moving" and thank you for that. I will be doing that in my camper this season.
What capacity battery you will need to be able to do that and how many? Will marine grade battery work better?
While parked, my coach "battery disconnect switch" needs to be on to allow my frig to run on propane, correct?? I'm not hooked up to shore power. How long can I have the coach batteries only, on without making the batteries go dead? Also do I turn the propane gas knob off when driving and turn it on when parked? Does my furnace run on propane and electric? So many questions. I need help.
Ok what you need to know is what is the wattage of the 120 volt element. Mine is 150 watts. So I need a 150 watts or more inverter. Let us assume the inverter wastes 20% of the power throughput. So the Inverter needs 180 watts of DC power. Now dived by 12 volts to get the amperage needed to power it. 15 amps Not really that big of a load requiring lots of battery banks. Now If your fridge needs 300 watts just double every thing and what you need is 30 amps of DC power. I do have Anderson jacks to power and charge my 2 battery trailer power bank using two number 6 wire (plus and minus) from the truck alternator with a solenoid disconnect that prevents the discharge of the truck battery when the truck motor is not running. I also removed the fuse in my truck that provides power to the trailer through the 7 pin connector so I don't discharge my truck battery that way either. My fridge is a three way but right now I have a propane gas fridge problem. If you know or can learn what you are doing you can set this up so that when you have a shore power relay activates making shore power go to you fridge and deactivating the inverter. Be careful in your wiring because you don't want other appliances to get power from the inverter and you don't want shore power going to the inverter either. And when stopped without shore power you will want to use propane if you don't have shore power.
Don't they make a D.C. Elemement that will work the fridge? It should take some less power than an inverter.
I have a large LG Residential Refer. I have 700 watts Solar, 2K Xantrex True Sine wave inverter just for Refer. 4 Large FLA Trojan Batteries. With the small charging from my truck and solar I can go all day driving and not drain batteries.(just need sun!).
The thing is RV refers on 120 volts are battery hogs and doesn't work all that well. So everybody is using propane and while it works, very few turn it off while refueling.
Not sure if they ever answered the original question. I’ve considered doing the same thing to keep my fridge running while we were traveling for a day or two to reach a destination. Can the alternator of the vehicle keep up with the demand of the inverter? Once the destination is reached for the day, I would convert to propane or shore power.
Great question - i just used mine like this and noticed major draw on my tow vehicle gauge - unplugged on arrival and ran truck - battery is back to normal - is my rv fridge the draw ? Im not good at electric so any advice would be great - id hate to kill my truck battery
I would think that an rv dealer could add a 12 vdc heater to the fridge and make it 3-way. Then the charge circuit from the tow vehicle would handle it with ease because the charge circuit is 30 amps dc.
It would be interesting to know relative efficiency of car vs propane on the fridge. With the car, you convert gasoline to mechanical motion (25% eff) to 12V DC (75% eff) to 120V AC (85% eff) to heat (100% eff). With propane, you convert propane directly to heat. It is probably cheaper to run your fridge from propane.
Brad Teubner The question was about refrigerator use while driving...you don’t use propane while moving.
Then you have to worry about the converter. Just get a ice cheat and be done with it. Or a house type small refer and run it on a inverter. The batteries would needed to be upgraded to accommodate the additional drain but it can pull from the tow vehicle.
you can use an inverter while towing and hooked to a transfer switch to shore power and it will automatically go to 120 ac shore power
Install 300watt solar panels and a MPPT controller on roof of TT to offset tow vehicle charging
I have a 3 way fridge
I would only do this while driving.
Sure you can run it BUT if you go up or down a hill more than two degrees the frige will be out of spec level and then chance of fire (overheated boiler fracture)
you would have to drive for many hours at the incline to even potentially damage anything. The vibration of driving keeps the chemicals stirred up enough it isn't an issue.