Damn... Now I know what I gotta go and make... Thanks. Here I was just trying to watch some UA-cam before bed. Now my head is swimming with projects to use this for... 🤦🏻♂️ 😆🤣
I just made it! It’s super nice! The only issue I ran into was that the C-Clips for the Detent was interfering with the Top Plate making contact with the Back Plate. It was a little difficult but I was able to rotate the C-Clips so that the open part of the C aligned so that it didn’t interfere with the Back Plate. Overall though it was a fun and easy print, and it came out great!! Going to print 3 more when I get the chance to make a clock!
I am an absolute 3D printing beginner and have had a cheap Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro for 2 weeks. When I discovered your website and this display, I knew I had to have and print the STL files too. That's why I bought them as soon as they were available. I am so fascinated by the symbiosis of technology, design and art. After a few difficulties, I printed and assembled the first display in 3 evenings. The result is just wow! I will certainly finish the next display more quickly. I'm already looking forward to building a servo-controlled UA-cam subscriber counter together with my son. Keep being creative! Greetings from Hamburg, Germany
For those of you struggling on inserting the camshaft, here's some advice! I'm currently on my 2nd 7 segment display install and the 1st one took me like 2-3 hours to get the camshaft in. This time it took only a few minutes... Before you try inserting the camshaft, you want to set the number dial at the top to 5. Then you wanna wiggle the camshaft down without turning the knob. You should be able to get it all the way to the bottom after wiggling it for a while. Eventually you'll get to the bottom, but the top piece still will stick out a little bit and won't be flush with the top of the plate. You wanna force it down from the top around the edges and it should snap into place! EDIT - If the camshaft feels like it's getting stuck, you can also try wiggling the followers back and forth as you wiggle the camshaft into the housing.
Just finished building mine! Everything works great, the only challenge for me was getting the smaller C clamps in placed. Overall great looking mechanism!
Just an assembly note at 3:05, when attaching the D10 clicker piece to the front plate, orient the openings of the c clamp towards the nearby pegs on the front plate, otherwise they get pinched between the top and bottom plates when assembled and creates a gap so the two plates can't be clipped together. I adjusted the c-clips after the assembled camshaft was fully into the followers, but it'll be way easier to orient them before jostling it into place. Edit: I should read the comments, looks like you've fixed it already, thank you! I downloaded the files same day so I still had the original design.
This file is AWESOME! I printed 2 of them. Followed the video step by step and it went together like a charm! So satisfying! Started on the second one a few days later, and thought that I could do it from memory........hours later I have it almost 75% disassembled......had to followers in backwards.......AAAAARRRRGGGHHHHHH. Use the video! Hoping I dodnt have to reprint anything
What material (and colors!) did you print yours with? I'm about to print mine, and I am trying to decide between PETG and Inland PLA+, which are probably my favorite filaments.
Want to print but could you post a tutorial for the servo and controller cause there’s a lot out there and I would like to know how to use it for a counter/timer/clock without spending hours scanning the internet and/or buying the wrong parts. I understand if you don’t have time
Lol bro I literally just made your mechanical counter. I literally already downloaded a seven segment model to create after the mechanical counter but i just found it funny were creating the same things! :P Thanks for always providing us cool designs!
Excellent file, Enjoyed building this and really want to make it a score board with adding up or down by a button or two and reset back to 0. Not sure how to code it, but thats part of the journey right! Appreciate the how to build video and everything!
Yeah I'm supporting you my guy. This is awesome. I think I need a new garage clock, and I dont know if I need more of your designs, but needs are irrelevant really. I'll be buying several. Keep doing stuff, thank you, you're awesome.
this is amazing! i am about to buy my first 3d printer -- bambu a1 mini. i would love to do this as my first project (as long as my printer can do it lol) ❤
Thank you so much for the design, very much worth the little money you are asking for. Just finished the 3rd one and started with #4 to finish my clock - just hours and minutes. However, I am wondering if there is a particular reason for using servos instead of stepper motors? I have no experience (yet) with either one of those but I could imagine that the wear on the parts is lower if the system keeps turning into one direction instead of jumping back from 9 to 0 all the time? Also the servo gear has a lot of play and tilts within the servo mount. Is there an option to give it a better fix? Again, thanks for the great work and I am looking forward to hear from you. Cheers!
Looks amazing! Printing all the files now! I notice on your shorts that you have made a clock with it. For the electronics is there a hardware list with wiring blueprint and a copy of the code? Would love to make a clock!
Hey just wanted to reach out and let you know that I modified the Central Clock Connector to feature an actual attachment point for the electronics. I secured the servo board with 4x M3 screws and the RTC with 3x M2 screws. I tried to copy your design style and I feel it really cleans things up. I'd be happy to share it with you / others if you'd be interested.
@@supermomandj same here. I brought the servo mount to fusion 360 and modified it to accommodate a 608z bearing where the middle gear goes now. However I’m still experiencing issues while moving the servo. I need to do more test with one another from the batch I got
@supermomandj I’d love an STL of the modified central clock connector. I’m also having issues with the servo mount and central gear skipping teeth. Any suggestions on how to fix that?
One thing that's not immediately obvious is that the cams go on numbers down when you're holding it upside down. I guess it makes sense, but if you ever remake this, be nice to make explicit. I broke some things and had to take the first try apart again - here's to try two
So the number 1, 1i, 2, 2i and so on on the cams all go towards the dial knob on the shaft? Its hard to tell on the video and i thought some went up and some went down and broke my first one.
so, does it matter what material we print this with? esp. wondering if the compliant part in the detente is okay with PLA EDIT: never mind, I found it in the text file. PLA!
Wow, you got some small fingers!!!! I cant get anywhere near the clips at 2:54 to snap them in. I had to get a pick from my toolbox to get them in. I do have big hands tho (not a big guy, but my hands/fist/knuckles are big), lol. My ring finger Ring size is a 13.5 and my thumb is like a 19 or something... My wifes ring size is like a 4 or something and her ring only fits on the tip (just the tip) of my pinky. hahahaha.... but I purchased the files and just got a new Bambu Labs P1S (best printer EVER!), and putting together assembly number one now. Doing a clock to go in our game room where we have Mario Bros and other decor that this will fit in perfect with.... Thank you for your work!!!!! And I am happy to purchase the stl files with the code and support your work!!! I am going to check, but I really hope your FLapper Display will be avaialble... I want to put it all together and have a servo driving each and have it spit out whatever we want it too.... I love the FLAP FLAP FLAP FLAP noises that FLAPPER DISPLAY have.
Hej! Thanks for the really great model... I enjoyed building it very much! One (or two) small remarks: In your part list and in the model you have 14 small c-clamps. That is only enough, when you clamp every rack only with one c-clamp despite they have two pins each. You did so in the video, but you did not mention it. Second point is, that you provide 7 bigger c-clamps in your design, but you need 11 of them (4 for the front plate (mentioned in the video), 2 for the detent (mentioned as well), 1 for to fix the cam shaft in the bottom (not mentioned) and 4 to fix the top plate in the back plate (not mentioned). It's not a big deal to print some more c-clams, but maybe include some more in the design, when you do a revision? Thanks again for the great model!
I disagree. The input "turn of the knob" displays a certain output "display of number" this is a function "f(x)". I'm not wanting to argue just replying on how I see it. If I am wrong please explain further and help me understand.
@@stephenedwards3348 Look at 3:13 "and it's going to align with the detent pin and you'll get this really satisfying motion" This looks to be designed so that on rotation the input will snap between position and the output also snaps between positions. The same essentially happens in digital electronics. The step between states is fast but not instantaneous. It can be forced between states but one wants to avoid doing so for more than a very sort duration. One can contrast that to an odometer in a car from the 70s for which the least significant digit would rotate continuously and spend more time between numbers than on them. One can google images showing this.
Edit: turns out it was my crappy old filament that caused the eyelets on the front plate to be fragile. Printed with .6 nozzle and new filament and it worked but for some reason one of the side racks doesn't engage well with the pinion and slips (only a problem on 1). Not sure if it was a layer height issue? I swapped back to a .4 nozzle and went to .2mm layer height and everything fit and worked as expected. Super happy to get the first one working! 3 more to go :).
Hey! absolutely amazing print! I love how it turned out. One thing tho, Im still not sure how to print the multicolor pieces in a way that they have the black edges with the white faces. Im using an A1 with Bambu labs for reference. Any help would be awesome!
any way we can get a step by step PDF for instructions...the video is nice, but too fast for us older folks. I would love to give the bag of parts to my 73 year old dad, but not tell him what it is or have him watch the video 20 times.
@@Engineezierwhy not sell this like a kit to build and add some apps for us to tinker with? Like a kill count timer for live streamers or just a normal clock for gamers. Just add a bit of led then I'm pretty sure this will be so popular with everyone. I would love to have one but don't have any 3d printer or time to use one if i ever buy it.
Great project, I’m looking forward to printing it. Is there also a mount for a stepper motor? I would like to go from 9 to 0 without turning back. But I’m relatively new to this.
Love your content JBV, amazing project. I'm currently trying to assemble it and I just have a couple of comments: The text file says it does not require any supports, but the video does (so I guess it's fine as long as people watches the video before printing). The other one is that some tolerances are really thigh, I had a bad time inserting the racks in the side followers, and then the cams into the shaft where almost impossible to insert. When introducing the shaft into the side followers, I had to force it because it wasn't possible and ended up breaking the shaft. Will try to scale it down to see if that helps. Anyway, thanks for sharing this! Will be following along when the tutorial for the clock is ready :)
Thanks for the comments, updated the text file and just sent out an update with larger tolerance parts. This is super tricky to get right because too much tolerance can result in lose parts on some printers while being too tight on others. Hope the update helps! Thanks for your support!
I'm trying to assemble it, but when I put the Cam Shaft and all the Cams in, the fit is very tight. As if the measurements were not correct, but the measurements are in accordance with the downloaded file!
maybe u shold add to the files a 2nd verson of the turning gear or a extender that just make the part u grab to spin it a bit taller to make it easier to grab
As you update the file package, are you also updating the pre layout files? My clock assembly (and drive shaft) are so damn tight that its practically locking up. Trying to figure out what the cause here is (and if solved in newer versions)
Hey I have a school project I was gonna use this for if you can could you explain how you put the last part of shiming the rod in at 3:52 i could not understand it and when i tried to take it out it broke on me so I had to re 3d print the rod again and im gonna retry after school any ideas would be a great help
Hey, amazing print! However I am having trouble getting the cam shaft into the followers. I can get it almost all the way however it just will not go anymore. Does anyone know how to fix this?
Lots of luck, IMO. I think it actually makes sense to put it together with the cams going through the followers before you put the back plate on. But I figured that out too late. I was able to get it together, but it took 30 minutes of trial and error, and a lot of pressure, to get it finally snapped together.
I’d like the segments to flip inward or rotate 180 degrees, allowing a transparent plate to be placed in front of them. With the current design, the segments don’t allow for viewing from different angles.
I've been printing some for myself. They are a bit of a process, so mass production would be hard, but if you want some, I could work with you on a price for me to make some for you!
Hey so I was wondering, in your build process did you have issues with any of the gears skipping? The arm holding my free spinning gear on the servo mount seems to almost bend at times and the servo travels up the side of the camshaft gear causing it to skip on occasion?
This happened to me too. Seems like there’s too much play/slop in the center gears spindle and possibly the servos mounting bracket may be too loose. My gears seem to bind and skip teeth, or just not align all the time.
Thanks for this super cool design, i just finished printing and assembling, but i ran into an issue where the shaft seems to be a bit too long and the Cams are not able to align with the followers, making it unable to turn smoothly , super hard to turn the dial and can only turn it few clicks each direction, i can see all the white pieces (Cams) are not aligning with the followers. not sure what i did wrong here.. i can even tell from your video at 3:51 that there is barely any bit of the shaft left to insert into the black plate, mine shows 10mm or so of the star gear on the shaft still.
Yep, me too. the camshaft seems too long. Ive reprinted the shaft again, all the followers and meticulously follwed the video. Cam 7 and 7i sits just above the last rack piece, with the camshaft fully seated into the hole at the bottom... Im going crazy (and running out of filament....)
@@AzTheCreator i ended up modeling a bunch of spacers and kept putting it on and off to see where it needs a spacer to help align the followers and cams, works, but still glitchy
@@TeslaDIY same thought as I had last night. I can see the issue is around the gear and spacing of can 4 - I think I’ll follow your lead with a spacer for sure!
Hey @TeslaDIY - I've found a 3mm spacer between the Cam gear and Cam 4 aligns everything just about right. I did a dimensional accuracy on my printer and its just about right so i'm really not sure where the extra 3mm came from. 05mm -1mm would have been ok, but it is a large gap at 3mm. Maybe it's me, as a lot of other commenters are not reporting this issue. Just you and me... Anyway, works now
I have a Prussa Mk3S and I'm not sure how I should go about trying to print the 2-color segments with manual color changes. Any ideas on how to get the "lack border look" if I have to use 1 color per layer?
Thanks for very beautifull project. I have buy stl and realize now your project. if have more project on same style, for examples with letter and number please inform me.
Hey do you have any tipss if your printer is not accurate enough. i have a lot of problems with the spacing. for now i try to pront everything in 125% to get a better spacing but in 100% scale everything sits a little bit too tight
Just started printing the parts. I had some issues with the front plate. The little extensions that hold the pins are very narrow and one fell off. I tried to CA glue it back on but no bueno. Do these extensions with the holes need to be so delicate? I fear that some of the other will not hold up to the operation of the unit.
Had about half of the top of the posts break off when trying to install the C-clip onto them. I don't think it'll be that big of a deal, the racks seem pretty solidly in place even without them, but it's still unfortunate.
I have bought the file,instead of the stl in the root folder and serve attachment folder,there are many other stl files in another folder,such as "counter add on""clock add on",etc..Should I print those files?what's are the founction of those file
Trying to get a servo to spin with the recommended board. I'm a beginner in this kind of stuff and the documentation on Sunfounder doesn't seem that useful. I can do the basic blink led stuff on the Arduino which makes me suspect that the reason I can't get the servo to spin is that you need power through the servo board. Can anybody confirm whether that is the case? Also curious how much voltage you're supposed to use since the silk screen says 7-12V but the recommended Servo operates at ~5V. Thanks. edit: yeah, the board needs external power and adding the rtc seems easy peasy as well. time to print 3 more for hh:mm clock ☺
Can you please share what you are using to drive the servos (around 6:08)? Would this work without the clock module if you attached a Arduino Nano with WiFi for clock sync?
Hi there, got this off thangs, i couldn't find the picture you mentioned about the followers orientation, there is just the part list and some .ino files. any chance of linking it?
I have a few problems i followed the toutoruial and i am at the step where i would have to be able to turn it but it is stuck at 1 Update: NVM i just want to know how do i programm my servo
@@FahadAloraini-s2r i scrapped my plans cause i am too broke to afford the electronics for the whole clock 32 dollars pocked money isn't enough but yeah maybe I come back to you later
I have a 3mf file i could drop on drop box if you want it....using bambu studio i was able to get 3 layers of white so no bleed through of the black while keeping a nice black border.
does anyone else had some issues with using the servo I tried using it but every few digits it keeps getting stuck. normally without the servo it spins really easily and even with the servo attached I can spin it by the servo gear without using that much force but for some reason it won't work automatically it is getting stuck mostly at 7 and 0.
Hi, can anyone help with aligning the cams, we are running the video at 1/4 speed and still can't seem to get it quite right - Sorted by key it meant that one of the splines on the cam shaft is slightly fatter matching the cams themselves (not a print defect as I originally thought). As the cams were slightly loose I fitted the last two with a piece of paper to jam them on whilst inserting the cam shaft. I found that dialling the camshaft to against the detent was the easiest position to wiggle it in. My son now has two of these and is very happy.
I printed it twice, but unfortunately I had a lot of play between the rack and pinion, so the segments wont fully close and fully open. It will skip tracks sometimes causing the segment to hang open and not fully snap closed. I printed it twice and had the same issues both times, maybe it's just me, but that was upsetting. Basically like he explained @4:55, I line up the 4th pinion with the 4th tooth on the rack but when I cycle through the numbers some of the segments jump cause of the wobble and now the 4th pinion is on the 3rd rack...anyone else have this issue?
Can a resin printer work for these items? Meaning, it doesnt require any "give", so I can build solid prints with my resin printer? My FDM printer is down and out and I need to buy a new one as I can't figure out the issues with it, but after a solid 4 years, I couldnt ask for more out of her, lol.
Has anyone else printed this at a larger scale? I just printed it at 375%. I had 3 of the follower pin heads snap off and the detent is way to hard to turn. I figure I can reprint the followers with a thicker wall and higher infill to prevent the heads from breaking. "I am talking about the heads where the clips attach the gears. The detent developed stress fractures making it easier to turn. Anyone have any suggestions? Thank you
Damn... Now I know what I gotta go and make...
Thanks. Here I was just trying to watch some UA-cam before bed. Now my head is swimming with projects to use this for... 🤦🏻♂️
😆🤣
I totally understand the feeling haha
Hi there! im trying to reach out and get into contact with you, is there a good social media account or email i can reach you with? Thanks!
I just made it! It’s super nice! The only issue I ran into was that the C-Clips for the Detent was interfering with the Top Plate making contact with the Back Plate. It was a little difficult but I was able to rotate the C-Clips so that the open part of the C aligned so that it didn’t interfere with the Back Plate. Overall though it was a fun and easy print, and it came out great!!
Going to print 3 more when I get the chance to make a clock!
Just caught that! Sent an update with a slightly altered detent/top plate, fortunately the old files don't affect the functionality of it!
Stl file u have?
I am an absolute 3D printing beginner and have had a cheap Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro for 2 weeks. When I discovered your website and this display, I knew I had to have and print the STL files too. That's why I bought them as soon as they were available. I am so fascinated by the symbiosis of technology, design and art. After a few difficulties, I printed and assembled the first display in 3 evenings. The result is just wow!
I will certainly finish the next display more quickly. I'm already looking forward to building a servo-controlled UA-cam subscriber counter together with my son.
Keep being creative!
Greetings from Hamburg, Germany
Hi there SaftRAD! im trying to reach out and get into contact with you, is there a good social media account or email i can reach you with? Thanks!
For those of you struggling on inserting the camshaft, here's some advice! I'm currently on my 2nd 7 segment display install and the 1st one took me like 2-3 hours to get the camshaft in. This time it took only a few minutes...
Before you try inserting the camshaft, you want to set the number dial at the top to 5. Then you wanna wiggle the camshaft down without turning the knob. You should be able to get it all the way to the bottom after wiggling it for a while. Eventually you'll get to the bottom, but the top piece still will stick out a little bit and won't be flush with the top of the plate. You wanna force it down from the top around the edges and it should snap into place!
EDIT - If the camshaft feels like it's getting stuck, you can also try wiggling the followers back and forth as you wiggle the camshaft into the housing.
Just finished the build. Wow. That was the most fun I've had 3d printing.
Incredible design!
Hi there Michael! im trying to reach out and get into contact with you, is there a good social media account or email i can reach you with? Thanks!
Stl file did u have please
@@vishnuviswambharan9852 buy it on his website
Just finished building mine! Everything works great, the only challenge for me was getting the smaller C clamps in placed. Overall great looking mechanism!
Such great designs and I appreciate that you even show the assembly, I haven't bought a file yet but I really want to one day, they're so interesting
I appreciate you watching and all the support!
Hi there Patt! im trying to reach out and get into contact with you, is there a good social media account or email i can reach you with? Thanks!
This model looks so neat! I am printing it right now, looking forward to assemble it
Appreciate the support! Your work is amazing :)
how much time will it take to print all the part brother
Just an assembly note at 3:05, when attaching the D10 clicker piece to the front plate, orient the openings of the c clamp towards the nearby pegs on the front plate, otherwise they get pinched between the top and bottom plates when assembled and creates a gap so the two plates can't be clipped together. I adjusted the c-clips after the assembled camshaft was fully into the followers, but it'll be way easier to orient them before jostling it into place.
Edit: I should read the comments, looks like you've fixed it already, thank you! I downloaded the files same day so I still had the original design.
This would make an awesome clock!
Agreed!
I'm on it. Hopefully. File purchased, printer warming up.
This file is AWESOME! I printed 2 of them. Followed the video step by step and it went together like a charm! So satisfying! Started on the second one a few days later, and thought that I could do it from memory........hours later I have it almost 75% disassembled......had to followers in backwards.......AAAAARRRRGGGHHHHHH. Use the video! Hoping I dodnt have to reprint anything
Hi there! im trying to reach out and get into contact with you, is there a good social media account or email i can reach you with? Thanks!
What material (and colors!) did you print yours with? I'm about to print mine, and I am trying to decide between PETG and Inland PLA+, which are probably my favorite filaments.
@@SeanCMonahan I just used Hatchbox black and white PLA. Print a few extra C clips and pins. Trust me.
Loving this build! Everything went together perfectly! My 7 year old cant get enough of it.
Great engineering on this one. Twas really fun to put together and show it off.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Want to print but could you post a tutorial for the servo and controller cause there’s a lot out there and I would like to know how to use it for a counter/timer/clock without spending hours scanning the internet and/or buying the wrong parts. I understand if you don’t have time
Lol bro I literally just made your mechanical counter. I literally already downloaded a seven segment model to create after the mechanical counter but i just found it funny were creating the same things! :P Thanks for always providing us cool designs!
That is awesome! Thanks for the support!
Stl file you have?
Just finished assembling two. This is fantastic! Making a clock, so two more to go.
Do u have stl file bro
@@vishnuviswambharan9852 it's in the video description
GENIUS, bought it right away. Thanks!
Thanks so much! Enjoy!
Примите глубочайшее уважение по сборке и наладке из Иваново, Россия, успехов настоящему Мастеру!!!
great project, can't wait to start it ! Will you make a tutorial about the coding part ? (yes please)
Excellent file, Enjoyed building this and really want to make it a score board with adding up or down by a button or two and reset back to 0. Not sure how to code it, but thats part of the journey right! Appreciate the how to build video and everything!
Yeah I'm supporting you my guy. This is awesome. I think I need a new garage clock, and I dont know if I need more of your designs, but needs are irrelevant really. I'll be buying several. Keep doing stuff, thank you, you're awesome.
Hi there! im trying to reach out and get into contact with you, is there a good social media account or email i can reach you with? Thanks!
this is amazing! i am about to buy my first 3d printer -- bambu a1 mini. i would love to do this as my first project (as long as my printer can do it lol) ❤
I just bought the Bambu X1C if the A1 performs at all close to the X1 you will be fine.
I just printed this on my A1 Mini, it works flawlessly! I suggest to use a smooth printing plate, not a textured one though.
defintly looking forward the clock 🔥
Thank you so much for the design, very much worth the little money you are asking for. Just finished the 3rd one and started with #4 to finish my clock - just hours and minutes.
However, I am wondering if there is a particular reason for using servos instead of stepper motors? I have no experience (yet) with either one of those but I could imagine that the wear on the parts is lower if the system keeps turning into one direction instead of jumping back from 9 to 0 all the time?
Also the servo gear has a lot of play and tilts within the servo mount. Is there an option to give it a better fix?
Again, thanks for the great work and I am looking forward to hear from you. Cheers!
Looks amazing! Printing all the files now! I notice on your shorts that you have made a clock with it. For the electronics is there a hardware list with wiring blueprint and a copy of the code? Would love to make a clock!
Hey just wanted to reach out and let you know that I modified the Central Clock Connector to feature an actual attachment point for the electronics. I secured the servo board with 4x M3 screws and the RTC with 3x M2 screws. I tried to copy your design style and I feel it really cleans things up. I'd be happy to share it with you / others if you'd be interested.
yes please! Everything was going really well for me until I had to do the servo. Same stuff that you experienced with the central gear skipping
@@torrentisimo yeah I never really ‘fixed’ that per se. I just kinda kept messing with it and reprinting parts until it worked.
@@supermomandj same here. I brought the servo mount to fusion 360 and modified it to accommodate a 608z bearing where the middle gear goes now. However I’m still experiencing issues while moving the servo. I need to do more test with one another from the batch I got
@supermomandj I’d love an STL of the modified central clock connector. I’m also having issues with the servo mount and central gear skipping teeth. Any suggestions on how to fix that?
@@stevekeller1yeah no luck on the skipping still. Thought I fixed it but I guess not. Experimenting with some things still trying to fix it.
Dude. You and these C clamps lol. I’m about to start practice using them.
Yes a big clock
to mesure the procrastination time !
Lol !
Haha for sure!
Just made one, great stuff, thank you!! Making a second one now, modified... I'll share (if it works ;)
The only problem I had were the cams. One of them didnt fit so I had to remove some of the gaps. It works now though!
One thing that's not immediately obvious is that the cams go on numbers down when you're holding it upside down. I guess it makes sense, but if you ever remake this, be nice to make explicit.
I broke some things and had to take the first try apart again - here's to try two
So the number 1, 1i, 2, 2i and so on on the cams all go towards the dial knob on the shaft? Its hard to tell on the video and i thought some went up and some went down and broke my first one.
finally finished printing and assembly!
Hi there! im trying to reach out and get into contact with you, is there a good social media account or email i can reach you with? Thanks!
Great model, print in progress!
Btw, Thangs member link needs to be updated on video description ;)
Print done - flawless model.
Everything fits perfectly & clear instructions. Already looking for next model!
so, does it matter what material we print this with? esp. wondering if the compliant part in the detente is okay with PLA
EDIT: never mind, I found it in the text file. PLA!
Hi there! im trying to reach out and get into contact with you, is there a good social media account or email i can reach you with? Thanks!
Wow, you got some small fingers!!!! I cant get anywhere near the clips at 2:54 to snap them in. I had to get a pick from my toolbox to get them in. I do have big hands tho (not a big guy, but my hands/fist/knuckles are big), lol. My ring finger Ring size is a 13.5 and my thumb is like a 19 or something... My wifes ring size is like a 4 or something and her ring only fits on the tip (just the tip) of my pinky. hahahaha....
but I purchased the files and just got a new Bambu Labs P1S (best printer EVER!), and putting together assembly number one now. Doing a clock to go in our game room where we have Mario Bros and other decor that this will fit in perfect with.... Thank you for your work!!!!! And I am happy to purchase the stl files with the code and support your work!!! I am going to check, but I really hope your FLapper Display will be avaialble... I want to put it all together and have a servo driving each and have it spit out whatever we want it too.... I love the FLAP FLAP FLAP FLAP noises that FLAPPER DISPLAY have.
Hej! Thanks for the really great model... I enjoyed building it very much! One (or two) small remarks: In your part list and in the model you have 14 small c-clamps. That is only enough, when you clamp every rack only with one c-clamp despite they have two pins each. You did so in the video, but you did not mention it. Second point is, that you provide 7 bigger c-clamps in your design, but you need 11 of them (4 for the front plate (mentioned in the video), 2 for the detent (mentioned as well), 1 for to fix the cam shaft in the bottom (not mentioned) and 4 to fix the top plate in the back plate (not mentioned). It's not a big deal to print some more c-clams, but maybe include some more in the design, when you do a revision? Thanks again for the great model!
Hi there! im trying to reach out and get into contact with you, is there a good social media account or email i can reach you with? Thanks!
By definition this is digital. Just thought I'd point that out since you ask. It is digital because the output is designed to have discrete states.
I disagree. The input "turn of the knob" displays a certain output "display of number" this is a function "f(x)". I'm not wanting to argue just replying on how I see it. If I am wrong please explain further and help me understand.
@@stephenedwards3348 Look at 3:13 "and it's going to align with the detent pin and you'll get this really satisfying motion"
This looks to be designed so that on rotation the input will snap between position and the output also snaps between positions. The same essentially happens in digital electronics. The step between states is fast but not instantaneous. It can be forced between states but one wants to avoid doing so for more than a very sort duration. One can contrast that to an odometer in a car from the 70s for which the least significant digit would rotate continuously and spend more time between numbers than on them. One can google images showing this.
Edit: turns out it was my crappy old filament that caused the eyelets on the front plate to be fragile. Printed with .6 nozzle and new filament and it worked but for some reason one of the side racks doesn't engage well with the pinion and slips (only a problem on 1). Not sure if it was a layer height issue? I swapped back to a .4 nozzle and went to .2mm layer height and everything fit and worked as expected. Super happy to get the first one working! 3 more to go :).
Very fun project. Thanks!
Thank you! Appreciate the support
I wish you could add a part that makes the next one in a line go up when one goes past 9! Of course you can just add the servos but still.
Brilliant! Amazing engineering.
Thanks Michael!
Hey! absolutely amazing print! I love how it turned out. One thing tho, Im still not sure how to print the multicolor pieces in a way that they have the black edges with the white faces. Im using an A1 with Bambu labs for reference. Any help would be awesome!
any way we can get a step by step PDF for instructions...the video is nice, but too fast for us older folks. I would love to give the bag of parts to my 73 year old dad, but not tell him what it is or have him watch the video 20 times.
One day when I have an intern I can definitely make that happen!
@@Engineezier taking on any interns ?? I’d be ready to whenever you want
You just gotta lemme know.
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?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
@@Engineezierwhy not sell this like a kit to build and add some apps for us to tinker with? Like a kill count timer for live streamers or just a normal clock for gamers. Just add a bit of led then I'm pretty sure this will be so popular with everyone. I would love to have one but don't have any 3d printer or time to use one if i ever buy it.
Great project, I’m looking forward to printing it. Is there also a mount for a stepper motor? I would like to go from 9 to 0 without turning back. But I’m relatively new to this.
Love your content JBV, amazing project. I'm currently trying to assemble it and I just have a couple of comments:
The text file says it does not require any supports, but the video does (so I guess it's fine as long as people watches the video before printing).
The other one is that some tolerances are really thigh, I had a bad time inserting the racks in the side followers, and then the cams into the shaft where almost impossible to insert. When introducing the shaft into the side followers, I had to force it because it wasn't possible and ended up breaking the shaft. Will try to scale it down to see if that helps.
Anyway, thanks for sharing this! Will be following along when the tutorial for the clock is ready :)
Thanks for the comments, updated the text file and just sent out an update with larger tolerance parts. This is super tricky to get right because too much tolerance can result in lose parts on some printers while being too tight on others. Hope the update helps! Thanks for your support!
@@Engineezier You are the best man! How can I download the updates? Do I need to purchase the files again?
Hi there! im trying to reach out and get into contact with you, is there a good social media account or email i can reach you with? Thanks!
if theres some way to run a wire behind each number segment you could have illuminated segments. Imagine that green watch indiglo look.
I am planning to buy could i get the code for motor and components need for working could you make a another tutorial for programming the board
1 built. 3 more to go. Now researching arduino or RPi. To see which i want to drive the 4 servos for a clock.
@Engineezier i cant able to rotate the number ,its stuck at 1 .
Can you please help on this
I'm trying to assemble it, but when I put the Cam Shaft and all the Cams in, the fit is very tight. As if the measurements were not correct, but the measurements are in accordance with the downloaded file!
Yeah same. The tolerances are very tight, don't think my humble Ender 3 can get the accuracy needed 😢
maybe u shold add to the files a 2nd verson of the turning gear or a extender that just make the part u grab to spin it a bit taller to make it easier to grab
Any suggestions for the cams being too tight against the followers? Mine is binding terribly.
having the same issue here
I printed the cams with larger clearance @ 98%. Still managed to get them on the shaft and it solved my binding issue. Hope this helps.
Very nice project but I saw several times the vidéo to assembly but not yet
Pdf Will be apreciate for sure
Thanks by advanced
As you update the file package, are you also updating the pre layout files? My clock assembly (and drive shaft) are so damn tight that its practically locking up. Trying to figure out what the cause here is (and if solved in newer versions)
Hi there! im trying to reach out and get into contact with you, is there a good social media account or email i can reach you with? Thanks!
Hey I have a school project I was gonna use this for if you can could you explain how you put the last part of shiming the rod in at 3:52 i could not understand it and when i tried to take it out it broke on me so I had to re 3d print the rod again and im gonna retry after school any ideas would be a great help
awesome build
trying to print it but the part when you push the white parts into the plates is getting stuck; any advise do it?
Hey, amazing print! However I am having trouble getting the cam shaft into the followers. I can get it almost all the way however it just will not go anymore. Does anyone know how to fix this?
Lots of luck, IMO. I think it actually makes sense to put it together with the cams going through the followers before you put the back plate on. But I figured that out too late. I was able to get it together, but it took 30 minutes of trial and error, and a lot of pressure, to get it finally snapped together.
What kind of filament did you use?
love it thank you so much for the enjoyable project
Glad you enjoy it!
i'm only curious but is it possible to alter the 7 to have the upper left vertical segment in it too, to give the 7 a curl-like shape?
I’d like the segments to flip inward or rotate 180 degrees, allowing a transparent plate to be placed in front of them. With the current design, the segments don’t allow for viewing from different angles.
I hope someone starts selling these, I don’t have a 3D printer 😔
Just started printing this myself…it’s fun but one hell of a process. Not sure it would be worth someone’s time to try and mass produce it
I've been printing some for myself. They are a bit of a process, so mass production would be hard, but if you want some, I could work with you on a price for me to make some for you!
Hey so I was wondering, in your build process did you have issues with any of the gears skipping? The arm holding my free spinning gear on the servo mount seems to almost bend at times and the servo travels up the side of the camshaft gear causing it to skip on occasion?
This happened to me too. Seems like there’s too much play/slop in the center gears spindle and possibly the servos mounting bracket may be too loose. My gears seem to bind and skip teeth, or just not align all the time.
@@stevekeller1 yeah I’m looking into ways to fix it but no promises I’ll find much lol
Hi there! im trying to reach out and get into contact with you, is there a good social media account or email i can reach you with? Thanks!
This is amazing
Thank you so much!
Thanks for this super cool design, i just finished printing and assembling, but i ran into an issue where the shaft seems to be a bit too long and the Cams are not able to align with the followers, making it unable to turn smoothly , super hard to turn the dial and can only turn it few clicks each direction, i can see all the white pieces (Cams) are not aligning with the followers. not sure what i did wrong here.. i can even tell from your video at 3:51 that there is barely any bit of the shaft left to insert into the black plate, mine shows 10mm or so of the star gear on the shaft still.
Yep, me too. the camshaft seems too long. Ive reprinted the shaft again, all the followers and meticulously follwed the video. Cam 7 and 7i sits just above the last rack piece, with the camshaft fully seated into the hole at the bottom... Im going crazy (and running out of filament....)
@@AzTheCreator i ended up modeling a bunch of spacers and kept putting it on and off to see where it needs a spacer to help align the followers and cams, works, but still glitchy
@@TeslaDIY same thought as I had last night. I can see the issue is around the gear and spacing of can 4 - I think I’ll follow your lead with a spacer for sure!
Hey @TeslaDIY - I've found a 3mm spacer between the Cam gear and Cam 4 aligns everything just about right. I did a dimensional accuracy on my printer and its just about right so i'm really not sure where the extra 3mm came from. 05mm -1mm would have been ok, but it is a large gap at 3mm. Maybe it's me, as a lot of other commenters are not reporting this issue. Just you and me... Anyway, works now
I have a Prussa Mk3S and I'm not sure how I should go about trying to print the 2-color segments with manual color changes. Any ideas on how to get the "lack border look" if I have to use 1 color per layer?
That was cool!
My assembly turns pretty smoothly for most part but catches on something on some numbers. Any suggestions on what to check/reprint/sand, etc?
Thanks for very beautifull project. I have buy stl and realize now your project. if have more project on same style, for examples with letter and number please inform me.
Hey do you have any tipss if your printer is not accurate enough. i have a lot of problems with the spacing. for now i try to pront everything in 125% to get a better spacing but in 100% scale everything sits a little bit too tight
Just started printing the parts. I had some issues with the front plate. The little extensions that hold the pins are very narrow and one fell off. I tried to CA glue it back on but no bueno. Do these extensions with the holes need to be so delicate? I fear that some of the other will not hold up to the operation of the unit.
Had about half of the top of the posts break off when trying to install the C-clip onto them. I don't think it'll be that big of a deal, the racks seem pretty solidly in place even without them, but it's still unfortunate.
Can we get one that adds AbCdEF for hex decimal use? That would ve interesting.
I have bought the file,instead of the stl in the root folder and serve attachment folder,there are many other stl files in another folder,such as "counter add on""clock add on",etc..Should I print those files?what's are the founction of those file
Trying to get a servo to spin with the recommended board. I'm a beginner in this kind of stuff and the documentation on Sunfounder doesn't seem that useful. I can do the basic blink led stuff on the Arduino which makes me suspect that the reason I can't get the servo to spin is that you need power through the servo board. Can anybody confirm whether that is the case? Also curious how much voltage you're supposed to use since the silk screen says 7-12V but the recommended Servo operates at ~5V. Thanks.
edit: yeah, the board needs external power and adding the rtc seems easy peasy as well. time to print 3 more for hh:mm clock ☺
The file rack side only has one side of the rack? It's only for the segments on the right.
Can you please share what you are using to drive the servos (around 6:08)? Would this work without the clock module if you attached a Arduino Nano with WiFi for clock sync?
Hi there, got this off thangs, i couldn't find the picture you mentioned about the followers orientation, there is just the part list and some .ino files. any chance of linking it?
DO NOT make the same mistake i did and put a brim on it. Also this video is real fast so triple check orientation.
just broke it at the last few steps - the tolerances were so shit for my print
What’s the combined printing time per display? Very cool !!
I have a few problems i followed the toutoruial and i am at the step where i would have to be able to turn it but it is stuck at 1 Update: NVM i just want to know how do i programm my servo
how did you solve your issue
and if you still need any help with the servo program just let me know
@@FahadAloraini-s2r i scrapped my plans cause i am too broke to afford the electronics for the whole clock 32 dollars pocked money isn't enough but yeah maybe I come back to you later
did you use any kind of code to make the clock work ? i saw it in your short video
thanks in advance :)
How long is the printing time on your bamboo or other printers?
Within the STL Zip; Could you provide the 3mf for the colored pieces?
I have a 3mf file i could drop on drop box if you want it....using bambu studio i was able to get 3 layers of white so no bleed through of the black while keeping a nice black border.
does anyone else had some issues with using the servo I tried using it but every few digits it keeps getting stuck. normally without the servo it spins really easily and even with the servo attached I can spin it by the servo gear without using that much force but for some reason it won't work automatically it is getting stuck mostly at 7 and 0.
How did you make it a dice?
Superb bit of design, but MY GLOB was it frustrating to get the central spindle through into position!
right? I used ABS and all the cams were just slightly thinner due to shrinkage. That made this step a nightmare. I think having a good print is key.
I love it
Could I use an SG90 for this too or is it not strong enough? I’m new to this, so sorry if it’s a dumb question 😅
Do you have a write-up on the code you used for the servos by chance? I have a RPi sittin' around that could use a job :)
Hi, can anyone help with aligning the cams, we are running the video at 1/4 speed and still can't seem to get it quite right - Sorted by key it meant that one of the splines on the cam shaft is slightly fatter matching the cams themselves (not a print defect as I originally thought). As the cams were slightly loose I fitted the last two with a piece of paper to jam them on whilst inserting the cam shaft. I found that dialling the camshaft to against the detent was the easiest position to wiggle it in. My son now has two of these and is very happy.
Hi there! im trying to reach out and get into contact with you, is there a good social media account or email i can reach you with? Thanks!
I printed it twice, but unfortunately I had a lot of play between the rack and pinion, so the segments wont fully close and fully open. It will skip tracks sometimes causing the segment to hang open and not fully snap closed. I printed it twice and had the same issues both times, maybe it's just me, but that was upsetting. Basically like he explained @4:55, I line up the 4th pinion with the 4th tooth on the rack but when I cycle through the numbers some of the segments jump cause of the wobble and now the 4th pinion is on the 3rd rack...anyone else have this issue?
I'm having the same issue, weird more people aren't having it. Were you able to fix it?
@@jackvine1348 no wasn’t able to fix it, and no one else seems to be reporting the problem either. Not sure what’s wrong
Can a resin printer work for these items? Meaning, it doesnt require any "give", so I can build solid prints with my resin printer? My FDM printer is down and out and I need to buy a new one as I can't figure out the issues with it, but after a solid 4 years, I couldnt ask for more out of her, lol.
adding on to my last comment, this is really cool! have you considered extending it so a single turn counting up numbers beyond single digets?
How do I know which piece is which?
I predict a wooden version will be built soon.
Is there a way to just buy this, printed out?
Has anyone else printed this at a larger scale? I just printed it at 375%. I had 3 of the follower pin heads snap off and the detent is way to hard to turn. I figure I can reprint the followers with a thicker wall and higher infill to prevent the heads from breaking. "I am talking about the heads where the clips attach the gears. The detent developed stress fractures making it easier to turn. Anyone have any suggestions? Thank you
Can we just buy a clock set up?