Looking forward to watching this project unfold. I used one of these for many years and often fantasised about scraping it all in but ended up just getting a cnc. Definitely going to be a good series
Thnks. I hope this will be interesting for some and was also curious myself. When the opportunity presented itself I could not pass😀 PS! What kind of CNC mill did you buy?
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 cool. I got a Hurco VM10i. Quite a lot bigger! Am pretty happy with it though. It's nice to let the motors do the work. I used to wrap the mill handles in bandages to stop them giving me blisters when i had lots of surfacing to do!
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 yeah, I'm very happy with it. I had to knock a new hole in the wall to get it through though! It's very different from the small mill, so many sub systems, all needing to work.. Thanks for sharing the scraping vids
Hello Jan, I will watch this series with interest... I understand the concept of scaping (more so in a lathe) but have not fully grasped scaping something like the milling machine where it has many surfaces X, Y, Z and checking for alignment. My approach (rightly or wrongly) would be to start with the base and work upwards checking for vertically and horizontally alignment as I go, very much like building a house, foundations, walls, roof. I am not sure I am explaining myself well... but as I watch the series I feel sure things will become clearer. Take care. Paul,,
Thanks the same! There will certainly be an amount of measuring & scraping involved, so hopefully we'll all learn a bit. yes, exactly.. just like a construction of a house or similar. Start from the base and move up. If the base isn't correctly made/aligned, then nothing on top can make up for this.. On a milling machine like this where you can swivel of the head around it simplifies alignment in this plane (tramming), but still needs to be within specs (I will refer to the Schlezinger book for tolerances)
As usual this should be a really interesting series Jan. I think the word you were trying to remember in the beginning of the video was an eccentric bored bushing. That would allow an adjustment method to set the pinion engagement with the quills rack teeth. You'd obviously know that term in your native language without even thinking about it. But English from what I've been told can be a bit tricky with some technical terms.
Hehe.. yes, exacty. Thnks... I think age starts to make its' way (hopefully it is the accumulated and acquired knowledge meaning less "memory space" in the brain, but I don't count on this :) I must admit that at my level of video making, the preparations aren't always good enough.. just a bare minimum to get some footage off the ground without too much effort. Good enough being the mantra.. Anyway, yes, I think this will be an interesting journey. I might end up with a similar construction myself.. one day.. haha. PS! There is a lot of reviews/modifications etc. and also CNC'ing of these types of mills and I am astonished by the number "near similar, but not exact clones" out there, from a plethora of sources with different names. Popular size/price and a practical machine I guess!
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Don't sell yourself short Jan, your videos are just fine the way they are and you do a hell of a lot better than I would with my totally non existent second language of any nationality. I only added the term for what you were trying to remember for anyone that might be wondering what you meant. In fact I happen to think your video production and editing is much better than most. There's no wasted time with a pointless lead in with loud theme music, no constant begging to subscribe, no useless channel stickers or off topic chit chat. That to me is exactly how it should be. :-) Yes there seems to be a few different manufacturers of these 45 sized mills. Some even with built in powered spindle feeds. I even considered buying one for awhile, but I finally picked a 3/4 sized Bridgeport clone from Taiwan. For me and what I do it was a more versatile mill choice, plus there's a lot more additions and nice to have items made to directly bolt up to a Bridgeport machine. This new series will be an excellent one for anyone who owns even one of the smaller X2 and X3 mills since most of it will apply to those as well. That's a huge number of owners looking to properly adjust these mill types even if they don't choose to scrape them in.
@@turningpoint6643 Thnks! Nice to know this is appreciated the way it is! Totally agree to what you write.. far too much "nonsense" (in my humble opinion) in many "productions". Not that many not are "jaw-droppingly" good made and each to one's liking.. we are all different. I personally have never much liked background music (although I sometimes forget to turn down the radio..). For me this is just "noise" that impedes the message I try to get from watching/reading. Sometimes to the point that I just have to cut sound alltogether. Same with too much "face focus".. ie. the person(s) involved seemingly wanting to be a larger art of the video taking too much room/focus for my liking. Can't see any value whatsoever for me to film my bodily presence more than absolutely needed (I mean, what value is there for anyone to want to watch an oldish, bald guy haha), rather just trying to show exactly how/what/why ie. the topic/video is about. I also don't care much about the number of subscribers (just more work to answer comments :) ) as there isn't any earnings in this anyway (but this may be different for those that are real UA-camr's. Or so i have figured, but really have no clue..) Presentationwise, I am probably of a more "old school" nature and appreciate that there is not much of the very speedy and audiovisually "have to happen something all the time" approach what seems more for the younger generation. I like a more calm and "normal for me" setting focusing on the topic only. There are some channels that "voice" this.. Saying this, I am also somewhat interested in firearms and then I really like the approach you see in "Forgotten Weapons" by Ian McCallum. Calm, clear voice, precise and detail oriented etc. No music, and not at all "acting out" on camera.. And not too long a video each time, ie. one topic per video. I am impressed by how much he knows (and must have researched) on a single topic and how easily it flows when he presents this (not so easy.. I also hold seminars etc. and there is usually MUCH happening prior to the event as well as behind the scenes..). Different topic, and more lengthy, I have also found the maritime information channel by Drachinifil very good. More like a picture series with vocals, but very good presented. Re. the mill: Nice size, price and functionality. I am tempted to try this or the smaller brother, 30 style as I try to convince myself I need a good coordinate boring machine/bench style milling machine. I see that for example the version from Precision Matthews has a sturdy cast iron stand (and powered down- and cross feed and drawbar) and looks very nice. It could perhaps be a choice to buy from a company like this instead of directly from the manufacturer. That said, we have some local companies here also that imports "similar" machines, so that is a choice. I have also evaluated a Bridgeport clone (there is one down in Denmark that i want to look at.. Taiwanese. If not mistaken, possibly a company to where Richard went to teach scraping). We'll see when the borders open up again.. Then I have also looked at a Tormach as an alternative if I want to go CNC. There are just so many choices and the right answer dependent on the personal preference/situation.
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 :-) exactly my thoughts about the machinist channels on YT. These are or should be produced as informational videos about technical subjects and that's why I'm watching so I can increase my knowledge. There not music videos or Home & Garden shows. :-) If the channel and information presented is any good people will subscribe anyway. And if I want to be entertained I'll go watch a movie. In your location finding a good condition SIP jig boring machine and rebuilding it back to as new condition might work. Although that would be a bit larger than bench sized machine. I'm sure there's other European manufacturers of jig borers, but SIP is the only one I know that has a very good reputation. There apparently as good to possibly better or perhaps a bit more versatile than the Moore Tools jig borers. And that's a very high bar. If Europe is anything like North America any of these manual jig borers are in mostly low demand for use in the average commercial shops today so the prices have dropped to almost nothing for what they are. Before watching this video of Tom Liptons, ua-cam.com/video/dXDOvAa6Mus/v-deo.html I hadn't known they made smaller HBM type machines with jig boring accuracy levels. Obviously there built to extremely high standards and again very versatile. With the tail stocks they also were offered with, one of these might be a single small foot print machine tool that could be set up to do almost any turning or milling job in a home shop. If you don't already know of his channel? ua-cam.com/users/ELMETALRaymondMenendezvideos He's a literal artist with an HBM and an extremely talented machinist. My Bridgeport clone is Taiwanese and was built by a company called Bemato. A quick search and they don't seem to be offering the same mill today. But someone is, while I didn't buy mine through Precision Matthews this is the exact same machine I have with a step pulley head. www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-935ts-tv/ With a VFD on mine I don't really need or miss not having the variable speed head version. But I know the PM machine is the same as mine because of it's distinctive squared off upper column shape in the casting. What they did was reduce the machine size to roughly 3/4's of a full size machine, and used a full sized head with the powered spindle feeds. But the Bridgeport design layout and it's known part sizes also comes with some further and not generally known hidden future options to increase what it can do. At one time before cnc, Bridgeports over here were used a lot in Tool & Die and Plastic Injection Mold shops. So there were many specialty heads designed around a BP's known standard dimensions and it's R8 spindle taper. There sort of like your Schaublin or Deckel FP1 & FP2 mills with a bit less rigidity and versatility compared to a real Schaublin or Deckel and there many clones built all over Europe and even old East Germany. So the Bridgeport R8 taper and it's spindle diameter of 3.375" was used to mount those heads. Volstro here in North America was a fairly large manufacturer of those specialty heads. Unfortunately they were a victim of that move to cnc and are no longer a company. These heads are one of the big reasons I chose the mill I did. It took me over 10 years of searching, but I finally found and bought one of there rotary milling heads. It was this one in fact. www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=110132 And I know for a fact it was only used once to make a single test cut. So without that Bridgeport design some of this equipment just doesn't fit or work on other machine types. And I've yet to find a single accessory designed to be used on a real Bridgeport that doesn't bolt directly onto my mill. Funny you mention an interest in firearms, that's what got me started in machining except the gunsmithing part has now mostly disappeared. He builds mostly traditional style very expensive custom bolt action rifles, but this single video shows his machining ability's more than well. ua-cam.com/video/3UaPfRsXnkM/v-deo.html All done to coordinates using a dro and without cnc.
@@turningpoint6643 Same with radio channels these days, just music, chit-chat and commercial.. the "only" sane channel that has some good reporting up here is BBC World.. solid information from ground crew (all over the globe) on a vast array of subjects. In my mind at least it doesn't sound "politicized" either.. There is actually a SIP jig borer for sale now not very far away. Too big for my workshop though. Some of my machinist friends has different types, both larger / older (SIP) and the smaller, modern styled Hauser www.lathes.co.uk/hauser/ and one friend with a Moore. Incredibly accurate machines! He showed me it has repeatability at 1/1000mm.. :) I doubt that I will need such a machine, and the price would probably be prohibitive. I looked at a more reasonably sized & priced English Downham (Elliot) www.lathes.co.uk/elliott-mini-jig/index.html, but didn't act, so this opportunity was lost. However, I might get my hands on one of these, not cheap, but very tempting.. www.lathes.co.uk/fehlmann/ The "trouble" with the latter is that it normally uses special holders and in general that everything costs "an arm and a leg". So.. I might end up with a more budget machine. The Schaublin 52 milling that I have of course has a hi-speed head with quill (E25 type nose fitting, same as ER but without the unlocking slot), but it is an operation to switch between the two heads (other being ISO40, which tends to stay on, despite not having a quill. Another user had a good hint though, just turning the head horizontal and use the feed.. this being more controllable than the Z-feed, although still not as a quill). I have also looked at a Golmatic MD23, as a versatile, accurate alternative to a mill-drill type of Eastern origin. However, from a practical point of view, a B'Port type is possibly the ultimate mill for a typical small shop, doubling as a large capacity drill press.. and precision borer. The machine Tom Lipton has and shows is very neat.. looks like the same size as the SIP for sale here.. hmm.. Hadn't seen MetalRaymond before.. looks like a very nice channel! So more YT watching :) Your mill seem like a more or less direct B'Port Series 1 clone, but scaled down? That sounds interesting (space, also height is always a problem..) We actually have a lot of the Adcock & Shipley built Bridgeports over here, and some original US built machines (could be from military airplane repair facilities that were equipped with a lot of US gear.. as you may know, we have bought US planes since the late 40'ies/early 50'ies) Therefore it is not uncommon to find accessories ie. have seen a fair amount of shaper heads for example Thnks for the "firearm workshop link" .. I bet I will be more in front of the PC tonight than in the workshop..
OEM production/branding is a nice way to secure different customers in different countries/markets and for the recipient it can also be rewarding as the bigger/longterm the contract, the better conditions (price, delivery and customization).
I Have this mill. I have a short vid on the saddle showing what state it came from the factory and me tying to fix it. I have no idea what I'm doing. (Hand scraping machine ways. May be i should have left them alone?) is the video if you want to give me some pointers on if i did the right thing or not. Another video is me trying to find where the nod is coming from (Milling machine. Where is the nod coming from?) I have stopped at this point because I'm a little out of my depth not really with any experience in scraping apart from on a test plate before the first video.
Thnks for the comments. I looked at the videos you made and think the work is very well done (saw that my friend Marcus Christensen from Australia also commented.. nice!) The pattern you managed on the flat surfaces is (in my eyes) as good as it should be. Then the fun begins.. as Richard points out many times "it is easy to scrape a piece/surface flat, but.." and then carry on about the importance of alignment, which is where the "devil in the detail" is hidden. Namely the sometimes complex or easy to get wrong need for having all surfaces in the correct planes to one another. The bridge castings, like the saddle is possibly a piece that looks easy, but (at least again in my eyes) is a little deceiving as it is especially important to get this "spot on" and any error is amplified to the longer pieces. You seem to have gotten the scraping basics right, but may just have been a little overoptimistic starting with the saddle. However, don't let this discourage you to not carry on trying to improve/fix the column "nod". This will be (as is the saddle really) just a means of breaking the problem into manageable steps in a logical manner (as is most..). I think there is a good chance that your column "nod" is a function of either the ways on the "bridge piece/saddle" between the column and the head a little incorrectly setup/scraped or that the column sits out of square to the base (or both..). This is probably the same on this mill I have here.. PS! Some "out of squareness" might be OK, but not much, and this should be the other way, ie. leaning into the workpiece.. Seems strange to me that the column is "leaning backwards".. cannot see any other reason for this than "wide" manufacturing tolerances (or actually if the ways on the bridge piece wears and the weight of the head.. given it is greater than the work pressure acting upwards, then makes the head nod downwards, then it might be a way of doing things.. although unlikely). However, I think it is important to remember though that this is a budget machine, so that this is what we get for the price. It still functions and on the vast majority of parts make quite accurate cuts (my parts are seldom more than a few centimeters high, so this would not be a major problem. And if the sides were a couple of hundred millimeters from square, I could flip the part 90 degrees and use the other side and/or top.. just to throw in a suggestion for a workaround :)
I scraped the column base flat and then tested. The deflection with the head and +30kg on top of that was minimal. I was surprised how little thi sefect was. I f I remember correctly I leaned the column (ie. scraped) only about 1/100mm or so (measured apprx. 350mm up ) and this was enough to have it dead straight with the added weight of the head , gearbox and motor. The key issue to correct apart from aligning the column properly was to provide a good base ie. dead flat surfaces with sufficent contact area for the two mating sides
Hello there, I have not looked at the bearings as they are still working very nicely on my machine (knock on wood :) ) and would therefore not know much of interest to you. However, Madmagnus from Sweden and Sunppaa from Finland has some insight into this. Have a look here: ua-cam.com/users/sunppaavideos and www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/schaublin-cazeneuve-weiler-graziano-mori-seiki-lathes/russian-toolroom-lathe-izhmash-1i611p-263988/ Especially the thread on Practical Machinist should be helpful.. or just contact on of these guys :) I know Sunppaa overhauled the headstock and in the process must have dealt with the bearings. Lastly, you could ty to source information/bearings directly on the Russian website chipmaker.ru. You can probably buy bearings from them. PS! It might actually be possible to buy from the factory?
I commend you on answering comments in such depth. It’s not often people with knowledge are willing to share it so freely. Subscribed and liked!!!
Thnks for the nice comments!
Ah, the joys of being the friend who can fix things :)
Hehe.. he persuaded me..
Looking forward to watching this project unfold. I used one of these for many years and often fantasised about scraping it all in but ended up just getting a cnc. Definitely going to be a good series
Thnks. I hope this will be interesting for some and was also curious myself. When the opportunity presented itself I could not pass😀 PS! What kind of CNC mill did you buy?
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 cool. I got a Hurco VM10i. Quite a lot bigger! Am pretty happy with it though. It's nice to let the motors do the work. I used to wrap the mill handles in bandages to stop them giving me blisters when i had lots of surfacing to do!
@@lawmate Wow! This is a pretty big step up from a 45 style mill-drill. Very nice. Indeed the way to go for many.
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 yeah, I'm very happy with it. I had to knock a new hole in the wall to get it through though! It's very different from the small mill, so many sub systems, all needing to work.. Thanks for sharing the scraping vids
Hello Jan,
I will watch this series with interest... I understand the concept of scaping (more so in a lathe) but have not fully grasped scaping something like the milling machine where it has many surfaces X, Y, Z and checking for alignment. My approach (rightly or wrongly) would be to start with the base and work upwards checking for vertically and horizontally alignment as I go, very much like building a house, foundations, walls, roof.
I am not sure I am explaining myself well... but as I watch the series I feel sure things will become clearer.
Take care.
Paul,,
Thanks the same! There will certainly be an amount of measuring & scraping involved, so hopefully we'll all learn a bit. yes, exactly.. just like a construction of a house or similar. Start from the base and move up. If the base isn't correctly made/aligned, then nothing on top can make up for this.. On a milling machine like this where you can swivel of the head around it simplifies alignment in this plane (tramming), but still needs to be within specs (I will refer to the Schlezinger book for tolerances)
As usual this should be a really interesting series Jan. I think the word you were trying to remember in the beginning of the video was an eccentric bored bushing. That would allow an adjustment method to set the pinion engagement with the quills rack teeth. You'd obviously know that term in your native language without even thinking about it. But English from what I've been told can be a bit tricky with some technical terms.
Hehe.. yes, exacty. Thnks... I think age starts to make its' way (hopefully it is the accumulated and acquired knowledge meaning less "memory space" in the brain, but I don't count on this :) I must admit that at my level of video making, the preparations aren't always good enough.. just a bare minimum to get some footage off the ground without too much effort. Good enough being the mantra.. Anyway, yes, I think this will be an interesting journey. I might end up with a similar construction myself.. one day.. haha. PS! There is a lot of reviews/modifications etc. and also CNC'ing of these types of mills and I am astonished by the number "near similar, but not exact clones" out there, from a plethora of sources with different names. Popular size/price and a practical machine I guess!
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Don't sell yourself short Jan, your videos are just fine the way they are and you do a hell of a lot better than I would with my totally non existent second language of any nationality. I only added the term for what you were trying to remember for anyone that might be wondering what you meant. In fact I happen to think your video production and editing is much better than most. There's no wasted time with a pointless lead in with loud theme music, no constant begging to subscribe, no useless channel stickers or off topic chit chat. That to me is exactly how it should be. :-)
Yes there seems to be a few different manufacturers of these 45 sized mills. Some even with built in powered spindle feeds. I even considered buying one for awhile, but I finally picked a 3/4 sized Bridgeport clone from Taiwan. For me and what I do it was a more versatile mill choice, plus there's a lot more additions and nice to have items made to directly bolt up to a Bridgeport machine. This new series will be an excellent one for anyone who owns even one of the smaller X2 and X3 mills since most of it will apply to those as well. That's a huge number of owners looking to properly adjust these mill types even if they don't choose to scrape them in.
@@turningpoint6643 Thnks! Nice to know this is appreciated the way it is! Totally agree to what you write.. far too much "nonsense" (in my humble opinion) in many "productions". Not that many not are "jaw-droppingly" good made and each to one's liking.. we are all different. I personally have never much liked background music (although I sometimes forget to turn down the radio..). For me this is just "noise" that impedes the message I try to get from watching/reading. Sometimes to the point that I just have to cut sound alltogether. Same with too much "face focus".. ie. the person(s) involved seemingly wanting to be a larger art of the video taking too much room/focus for my liking. Can't see any value whatsoever for me to film my bodily presence more than absolutely needed (I mean, what value is there for anyone to want to watch an oldish, bald guy haha), rather just trying to show exactly how/what/why ie. the topic/video is about. I also don't care much about the number of subscribers (just more work to answer comments :) ) as there isn't any earnings in this anyway (but this may be different for those that are real UA-camr's. Or so i have figured, but really have no clue..)
Presentationwise, I am probably of a more "old school" nature and appreciate that there is not much of the very speedy and audiovisually "have to happen something all the time" approach what seems more for the younger generation. I like a more calm and "normal for me" setting focusing on the topic only. There are some channels that "voice" this.. Saying this, I am also somewhat interested in firearms and then I really like the approach you see in "Forgotten Weapons" by Ian McCallum. Calm, clear voice, precise and detail oriented etc. No music, and not at all "acting out" on camera.. And not too long a video each time, ie. one topic per video. I am impressed by how much he knows (and must have researched) on a single topic and how easily it flows when he presents this (not so easy.. I also hold seminars etc. and there is usually MUCH happening prior to the event as well as behind the scenes..). Different topic, and more lengthy, I have also found the maritime information channel by Drachinifil very good. More like a picture series with vocals, but very good presented.
Re. the mill: Nice size, price and functionality. I am tempted to try this or the smaller brother, 30 style as I try to convince myself I need a good coordinate boring machine/bench style milling machine. I see that for example the version from Precision Matthews has a sturdy cast iron stand (and powered down- and cross feed and drawbar) and looks very nice. It could perhaps be a choice to buy from a company like this instead of directly from the manufacturer. That said, we have some local companies here also that imports "similar" machines, so that is a choice. I have also evaluated a Bridgeport clone (there is one down in Denmark that i want to look at.. Taiwanese. If not mistaken, possibly a company to where Richard went to teach scraping). We'll see when the borders open up again..
Then I have also looked at a Tormach as an alternative if I want to go CNC. There are just so many choices and the right answer dependent on the personal preference/situation.
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 :-) exactly my thoughts about the machinist channels on YT. These are or should be produced as informational videos about technical subjects and that's why I'm watching so I can increase my knowledge. There not music videos or Home & Garden shows. :-) If the channel and information presented is any good people will subscribe anyway. And if I want to be entertained I'll go watch a movie.
In your location finding a good condition SIP jig boring machine and rebuilding it back to as new condition might work. Although that would be a bit larger than bench sized machine. I'm sure there's other European manufacturers of jig borers, but SIP is the only one I know that has a very good reputation. There apparently as good to possibly better or perhaps a bit more versatile than the Moore Tools jig borers. And that's a very high bar. If Europe is anything like North America any of these manual jig borers are in mostly low demand for use in the average commercial shops today so the prices have dropped to almost nothing for what they are. Before watching this video of Tom Liptons, ua-cam.com/video/dXDOvAa6Mus/v-deo.html I hadn't known they made smaller HBM type machines with jig boring accuracy levels. Obviously there built to extremely high standards and again very versatile. With the tail stocks they also were offered with, one of these might be a single small foot print machine tool that could be set up to do almost any turning or milling job in a home shop. If you don't already know of his channel? ua-cam.com/users/ELMETALRaymondMenendezvideos He's a literal artist with an HBM and an extremely talented machinist.
My Bridgeport clone is Taiwanese and was built by a company called Bemato. A quick search and they don't seem to be offering the same mill today. But someone is, while I didn't buy mine through Precision Matthews this is the exact same machine I have with a step pulley head. www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-935ts-tv/ With a VFD on mine I don't really need or miss not having the variable speed head version. But I know the PM machine is the same as mine because of it's distinctive squared off upper column shape in the casting. What they did was reduce the machine size to roughly 3/4's of a full size machine, and used a full sized head with the powered spindle feeds. But the Bridgeport design layout and it's known part sizes also comes with some further and not generally known hidden future options to increase what it can do.
At one time before cnc, Bridgeports over here were used a lot in Tool & Die and Plastic Injection Mold shops. So there were many specialty heads designed around a BP's known standard dimensions and it's R8 spindle taper. There sort of like your Schaublin or Deckel FP1 & FP2 mills with a bit less rigidity and versatility compared to a real Schaublin or Deckel and there many clones built all over Europe and even old East Germany. So the Bridgeport R8 taper and it's spindle diameter of 3.375" was used to mount those heads. Volstro here in North America was a fairly large manufacturer of those specialty heads. Unfortunately they were a victim of that move to cnc and are no longer a company. These heads are one of the big reasons I chose the mill I did. It took me over 10 years of searching, but I finally found and bought one of there rotary milling heads. It was this one in fact. www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=110132 And I know for a fact it was only used once to make a single test cut. So without that Bridgeport design some of this equipment just doesn't fit or work on other machine types. And I've yet to find a single accessory designed to be used on a real Bridgeport that doesn't bolt directly onto my mill.
Funny you mention an interest in firearms, that's what got me started in machining except the gunsmithing part has now mostly disappeared. He builds mostly traditional style very expensive custom bolt action rifles, but this single video shows his machining ability's more than well. ua-cam.com/video/3UaPfRsXnkM/v-deo.html All done to coordinates using a dro and without cnc.
@@turningpoint6643 Same with radio channels these days, just music, chit-chat and commercial.. the "only" sane channel that has some good reporting up here is BBC World.. solid information from ground crew (all over the globe) on a vast array of subjects. In my mind at least it doesn't sound "politicized" either..
There is actually a SIP jig borer for sale now not very far away. Too big for my workshop though. Some of my machinist friends has different types, both larger / older (SIP) and the smaller, modern styled Hauser www.lathes.co.uk/hauser/ and one friend with a Moore. Incredibly accurate machines! He showed me it has repeatability at 1/1000mm.. :) I doubt that I will need such a machine, and the price would probably be prohibitive. I looked at a more reasonably sized & priced English Downham (Elliot) www.lathes.co.uk/elliott-mini-jig/index.html, but didn't act, so this opportunity was lost. However, I might get my hands on one of these, not cheap, but very tempting.. www.lathes.co.uk/fehlmann/ The "trouble" with the latter is that it normally uses special holders and in general that everything costs "an arm and a leg". So.. I might end up with a more budget machine. The Schaublin 52 milling that I have of course has a hi-speed head with quill (E25 type nose fitting, same as ER but without the unlocking slot), but it is an operation to switch between the two heads (other being ISO40, which tends to stay on, despite not having a quill. Another user had a good hint though, just turning the head horizontal and use the feed.. this being more controllable than the Z-feed, although still not as a quill). I have also looked at a Golmatic MD23, as a versatile, accurate alternative to a mill-drill type of Eastern origin. However, from a practical point of view, a B'Port type is possibly the ultimate mill for a typical small shop, doubling as a large capacity drill press.. and precision borer.
The machine Tom Lipton has and shows is very neat.. looks like the same size as the SIP for sale here.. hmm..
Hadn't seen MetalRaymond before.. looks like a very nice channel! So more YT watching :)
Your mill seem like a more or less direct B'Port Series 1 clone, but scaled down? That sounds interesting (space, also height is always a problem..)
We actually have a lot of the Adcock & Shipley built Bridgeports over here, and some original US built machines (could be from military airplane repair facilities that were equipped with a lot of US gear.. as you may know, we have bought US planes since the late 40'ies/early 50'ies)
Therefore it is not uncommon to find accessories ie. have seen a fair amount of shaper heads for example
Thnks for the "firearm workshop link" .. I bet I will be more in front of the PC tonight than in the workshop..
This is interesting. I have same mill but it is branded as a optimum MB4.
I haven't investigated this in depth, but wouldn't be surprised that at least 10 different brands exist
OEM production/branding is a nice way to secure different customers in different countries/markets and for the recipient it can also be rewarding as the bigger/longterm the contract, the better conditions (price, delivery and customization).
I Have this mill. I have a short vid on the saddle showing what state it came from the factory and me tying to fix it. I have no idea what I'm doing. (Hand scraping machine ways. May be i should have left them alone?) is the video if you want to give me some pointers on if i did the right thing or not. Another video is me trying to find where the nod is coming from (Milling machine. Where is the nod coming from?) I have stopped at this point because I'm a little out of my depth not really with any experience in scraping apart from on a test plate before the first video.
Thnks for the comments. I looked at the videos you made and think the work is very well done (saw that my friend Marcus Christensen from Australia also commented.. nice!) The pattern you managed on the flat surfaces is (in my eyes) as good as it should be. Then the fun begins.. as Richard points out many times "it is easy to scrape a piece/surface flat, but.." and then carry on about the importance of alignment, which is where the "devil in the detail" is hidden. Namely the sometimes complex or easy to get wrong need for having all surfaces in the correct planes to one another. The bridge castings, like the saddle is possibly a piece that looks easy, but (at least again in my eyes) is a little deceiving as it is especially important to get this "spot on" and any error is amplified to the longer pieces. You seem to have gotten the scraping basics right, but may just have been a little overoptimistic starting with the saddle. However, don't let this discourage you to not carry on trying to improve/fix the column "nod". This will be (as is the saddle really) just a means of breaking the problem into manageable steps in a logical manner (as is most..). I think there is a good chance that your column "nod" is a function of either the ways on the "bridge piece/saddle" between the column and the head a little incorrectly setup/scraped or that the column sits out of square to the base (or both..). This is probably the same on this mill I have here.. PS! Some "out of squareness" might be OK, but not much, and this should be the other way, ie. leaning into the workpiece.. Seems strange to me that the column is "leaning backwards".. cannot see any other reason for this than "wide" manufacturing tolerances (or actually if the ways on the bridge piece wears and the weight of the head.. given it is greater than the work pressure acting upwards, then makes the head nod downwards, then it might be a way of doing things.. although unlikely). However, I think it is important to remember though that this is a budget machine, so that this is what we get for the price. It still functions and on the vast majority of parts make quite accurate cuts (my parts are seldom more than a few centimeters high, so this would not be a major problem. And if the sides were a couple of hundred millimeters from square, I could flip the part 90 degrees and use the other side and/or top.. just to throw in a suggestion for a workaround :)
Do you scrape in accounting for the sag/flex that the weight of the head will create on the column? Or adjust for that in another way?
I scraped the column base flat and then tested. The deflection with the head and +30kg on top of that was minimal. I was surprised how little thi sefect was. I f I remember correctly I leaned the column (ie. scraped) only about 1/100mm or so (measured apprx. 350mm up ) and this was enough to have it dead straight with the added weight of the head , gearbox and motor. The key issue to correct apart from aligning the column properly was to provide a good base ie. dead flat surfaces with sufficent contact area for the two mating sides
@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Cool! Thanks for the reply!
hello im have probleme bearing my stanko 1i611p can you help me for buy new bearing please noffing information in frenche languish
Hello there, I have not looked at the bearings as they are still working very nicely on my machine (knock on wood :) ) and would therefore not know much of interest to you. However, Madmagnus from Sweden and Sunppaa from Finland has some insight into this. Have a look here: ua-cam.com/users/sunppaavideos and www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/schaublin-cazeneuve-weiler-graziano-mori-seiki-lathes/russian-toolroom-lathe-izhmash-1i611p-263988/
Especially the thread on Practical Machinist should be helpful.. or just contact on of these guys :) I know Sunppaa overhauled the headstock and in the process must have dealt with the bearings. Lastly, you could ty to source information/bearings directly on the Russian website chipmaker.ru. You can probably buy bearings from them. PS! It might actually be possible to buy from the factory?
I would really enjoy completely rebuilding one of these
Yes, just break into sequences then this is straightforward as long as you know how and have the tools.. and time