@Sloppy Perfectionist many thanks for the video. Do you remember where you got the 'expensive' poly bushings for the upper rear drop links that you couldn't press on? I have the same problem. Thank you!
It doesn't look like you replaced the input shaft seal for the diff. I bet that thing leaking is the main reason that the entire diff housing was covered in black goo. Did you replace that seal?
I'm looking at this video again and I notice at 13:07 you are inserting the rear trailing arm front poly bushings. The part I don't see listed on the various websites is the inner poly washer you are inserting before the trailing arm is pushed up into it's space. Did that come with the poly bushings for the trailing arm?
nice video. Try aqualube on all the bolt shanks and poly bushing surfaces.It keeps out moisture and squeaks wont happen .Its synthetic. Wipe the excess.
Thanks! This is the manual I've been using. Please note that the manual in the link is the reproduction version and some people complained about print being very small. I have the 89' original so can't say the difference personally. bit.ly/Workshopmanual
I actually had it filmed but except for working around the axle, it’s a standard parking brake job and I thought it wouldn’t be interesting, didn’t wanna make it too long. My bad.
i installed a mid 1990s subaru 105 amp alternator on my spider// easy fit just a few changes.. also did this conversion on other folks spider.. the subi alternator is about 1/2 the size of the bosch alternator
hint..done this many times at alfetta motors where i worked..on the rebound strap block and screws... DO NOT USE THE PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS.. use counter head allen bolts.. and lots of anti seize on the bolts.. and because the top of were the bolts go into.. stuff it full of grease. soft car wax.. so you wont get water in there... also on the metal block. use antiseize on both sides of the block, so it will not ' weld ' itself the the bodyshell
+1 for anti seize every where. I've just done the same job on my GTV 2000. I also recommend cleaning up threads with die nuts before assembly like manifold studs, engine mount studs on block and cross member. It makes it so much easier to hand thread a nut or bolt all the way home, before using a tool to do the tightening.
Need more videos man. Thanks for torque specs too
Wow...that was a lot of work. Very impressive.
I know you haven’t uploaded in a while but I just wanted to say thanks for giving me the confidence and procedure on how to replace my rear suspension
You're welcome and I hope to be back to it sooner than later.
Great car, these are the most underrated classics, Beauty not power.
Power can come with money.
Excellent details. Just what I needed for my 1984 Spider Veloce. Let see some work on the front suspension too.
Thanks! Man I'm trying but life keeps getting in the way lol.
Great video! Can’t wait to do mine now! Thanks so much.
@Sloppy Perfectionist many thanks for the video. Do you remember where you got the 'expensive' poly bushings for the upper rear drop links that you couldn't press on? I have the same problem. Thank you!
What a great video, very informative!
Very impressive.
It doesn't look like you replaced the input shaft seal for the diff. I bet that thing leaking is the main reason that the entire diff housing was covered in black goo. Did you replace that seal?
I'm looking at this video again and I notice at 13:07 you are inserting the rear trailing arm front poly bushings. The part I don't see listed on the various websites is the inner poly washer you are inserting before the trailing arm is pushed up into it's space. Did that come with the poly bushings for the trailing arm?
Yes, it came with the kit from centerline
Best video
Nice job! Thank you for sharing!
nice video. Try aqualube on all the bolt shanks and poly bushing surfaces.It keeps out moisture and squeaks wont happen .Its synthetic. Wipe the excess.
Fantastic video!
Thank you!
Nice! Question...how do you replace rear badge on 85 spider veloce? Thank you.
Amazing video! Can you provide a link to where I can purchase the shop manual?
Thanks! This is the manual I've been using. Please note that the manual in the link is the reproduction version and some people complained about print being very small. I have the 89' original so can't say the difference personally.
bit.ly/Workshopmanual
What’s the torque spec on the diff cover?
Nice job - any more work?
Thanks! I Just put out another one. Next video will most likely be swapping the dash to early style.
Any idea how to lower the rear suspension of an alfa spider 115? Mod. 1985
Nicely done!
Where did you get the poly bushings for the rear sway bar? I have not been able to find them anyware 😊
Centerlinealfa.com
It would be nice to see the replacing emergemcy brake shoes and all around there.
I actually had it filmed but except for working around the axle, it’s a standard parking brake job and I thought it wouldn’t be interesting, didn’t wanna make it too long. My bad.
Good video thanks. Now I know for certain I won’t attempt this job. Too much for this old guy. 😆
Hey man I got a question, I need a new alternator for my 1990 Alfa Romeo spider graduate, but I can’t tell if I need a 45, 75 or 55 amp alternator
Hey, I’m sorry but I really wouldn’t know, electrical stuff is still my weak side.
@@sloppyperfectionist5384 same😂
You can use any of those if they’re the same externally. I’d get the 75 amp if it’s the same price.
on a 1990 spider,, the 75 amp will be the best one to use..8 years as a tech at alfetta motors
i installed a mid 1990s subaru 105 amp alternator on my spider// easy fit just a few changes.. also did this conversion on other folks spider.. the subi alternator is about 1/2 the size of the bosch alternator
Great Video. What was wrong with the rear wheel bearings?
They were toast, causing some vibrations and so much noise it sounded like driving with deflated tire.
hint..done this many times at alfetta motors where i worked..on the rebound strap block and screws... DO NOT USE THE PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS.. use counter head allen bolts.. and lots of anti seize on the bolts.. and because the top of were the bolts go into.. stuff it full of grease. soft car wax.. so you wont get water in there... also on the metal block. use antiseize on both sides of the block, so it will not ' weld ' itself the the bodyshell
Thank you for all the tips, I will do that next time I have it in the air.
+1 for anti seize on all threads. Also mentioned in comment below. Good job..
forgot no.1 rule... use antiseize on all bolts exsposed to the air. ..like all suspension parts..
+1 for anti seize every where. I've just done the same job on my GTV 2000. I also recommend cleaning up threads with die nuts before assembly like manifold studs, engine mount studs on block and cross member. It makes it so much easier to hand thread a nut or bolt all the way home, before using a tool to do the tightening.
CRACK