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Replace Index Controller battery without soldering (XINJ battery)
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2022
- 🚩 For the last month, after initial video, I've been working with XINJ on getting us a compatible battery which you can use to fix your controller without soldering skills.
🚩 Just because I'd be more comfortable myself if someone made such video, I'm making it. Because nobody else will.
🚩 Buy the battery here: www.aliexpress...
🚩 Previous video with Index Controller disassembly and soldering of a new battery: • Replacing battery in V...
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Battery charges to 4.25v until the LED on the controller lits with white. You can see how undamaged connector looks at preview of this video - method is legit and will work for someone who can see what they do.
Awesome. I appreciate the work you've done on this, the videos and getting a partner to provide batteries. You provided a great service to the community!
Heads up, that battery connector really doesn't like to be unplugged. My attempted ended up with the entire pcb side of the connector coming off with the plug. To anyone planning to do this, I highly recommend you leave the original battery wires attached to the board and just clip them and twist them together with the wires from the new battery. (like this guy does in his original demo)
Edit: I soldered the wires to the circuit and everything works! Thanks so much for the guide, you're collectively saving us thousands of $$
If you break the connector, it's the jst 1.2mm 3 pin ach wire to board connector. More commonly found as the switch lite battery connector.
For the glue, try some isopropyl alcohol as it kills hot glues stickiness.
If you break the pads/pull the traces. . .
For the record, 3 of 4 went fine, I got bored and fatigued the socket till it came out. Board was fine.
I had the same issue, but after looking at the battery connector and the connector on the PCB I notice that is it created to be removed by pulling up and away from the pcb not back in the direction of the wires.
Hey. Just want to tell you that I'm very grateful for the job you've done on this. My two controllers died, after not being used for like a year (should've disconnected them from power...). They otherwise work flawlessly, so I thought it would be a tremendous waste to just throw them away. Valve unfortunately could not help with it, and I honestly did not think I could do a proper repair by myself, but then I came to your guide. I don't have the batteries yet, they will arrive in like a month, but I successfully disassembled both controllers, and put every bit and piece well labeled and secured so I can just do a reassembly when I get them.
So, yeah, thank you so much for this guide (and the one with all the guided disassembly), I really appreciate it. You didn't have to do it, but you did, and that's awesome.
EDIT: Got the batteries, both work perfect, they charge as expected, and both my controllers are now usable again. Very grateful for it, man.
Best part is I didn't earn a dime from those batteries, nor I have ads enabled on youtube. :-) Glad I was of help.
@@SneakyJoesENG Oh, I also want to add something. My controllers did not have hot glue on the battery conector. The date on the PCB is the same as yours, and well, it looks identical as far as I can tell. That said, I bought my Index kit a bit later than when it released, like a year or so later, so maybe some batches had the glue and some not. I think I still will just cut the cables and resolder the ones for the new battery, though, that connector looks super fragile, best not mess with it.
Thank you so much for this video. You helped me save the cost of a new controller because Valve didn't want to help in any way except sell me a new one.
here I am for the second time, for my other controller's battery died too. Thanks man, you've now saved me the money of two controllers
Good. This means less money for Valve with their shitty design and refusal to help.
Thank you so much for this, really helpful and I'm so glad my controller is back to life now with much less cost and e-waste than replacing the whole thing
You helped me replace the batteries in my index controllers. 😊
GJ to your works for all the index controller users.
Just ordered a couple of batteries, so hopefully they'll come in soon. Thanks for the video and the link to the batteries as this saved me a lot of time and money by not having to research everything or buy new controllers.
You're welcome my man. I did everything Valve didn't want to do to screw with them and save money for their customers. Did cost me some money for extra controller and equipment, but it's worth knowing each new happy guy with successful repair costs them more.
Amazing! thanks you saved me a load of time trying to find the correct battery! and showed a way to remove the battery without complete teardown
good work on getting a compatible battery made!
Thanks for sharing. Unfortunately I accidentally ripped a bit the Grip connector while opening the Controller, but I was able to replace the battery Thanks to your Instruction
Thanks for the updated video for this!
You're welcome. I really didn't want to bother with it too much (in part because it's a fragile element and you see how easy it is to break if you can't see what you're doing). I hope it'll help other folks tho.
Amazing amazing amazing. Thank you SO SO MUCH for your generous help and thoughtful, detailed presentation. You're helping a lot of people with this.❤❤❤❤❤
You're welcome :-) I wish you luck with replacing.
The level of detail and quality in this video and the previous one is just insane. This saved my left controller, and soon I will try the same on my right. This is something I absolutely would have never attempted if I didn't have clear instructions like this. Thanks so much!
One question though, I find myself feeling quite nervous about the new battery. I followed all of the instructions, but I am still worried about the thing just bursting into flames while charging or during use. You had mentioned there is a, thermistor I think it was called? The third cable on the battery. And that cable informs the system/controller when it is overheating and when it is fully charged and things like that. How do I know its working properly so that I can have peace of mind that the controller won't just explode during normal use and/or charging?
Hey, thanks for the comment.
If you have a multimeter you can leave battery to charge for some time and just test the voltage on it's +/- outputs - it should be slightly higher than what battery is graded for generally. Even 2-pin batteries have overcharge protection if they have BMS, and if you charge them with proper voltage not above of what they're graded for - you're fine. Just make sure it's fixed inside the controller properly and won't wobble around while you play. If you did everything else I did in this video - you have nothing to worry about.
@@SneakyJoeRu Okay great, I will give the multimeter a try! One more thing, my original controller batteries were killed, I believe, by leaving them charging for long periods of times (like weeks at a time in some instances). I assume this is something I should avoid, even with overcharge protection, to prevent these new batteries from dying as well, right?
Thanks for the video I was able to replace the battery but I unfortunatly damaged the grip connector. The little latch clip for the ribbon is extremely fragile however the grip partially works so its usuable.
i got some phone type c battery banks and used rubber bands to hold them to the controller.
Yeah, that was my initial "solution". However, they don't hold all too well if you play some intense games like beat saber or where you need to flick-shoot fast. They start falling off, no matter how much ruber band I added, and apparently, they were damaging type c ports too. But it;s a decent temporary solution.
Man...wish I can ship you both my index controllers to fix XD
I mean, you can, but you'd be paying for shipping in, shipping out, getting batteries and my work. And shipping throughout European Union may be costly if you live outside. I recently shipped a detail to China - it costed me 160 euros. Getting the detail from China - 7 euros.
At this rate it's cheaper to order 2 batteries and come to a nearby handyman with my video, throw 10 euros at him and ask to do it.
They should have used electric tape instead of glueing the connector to the Circuit Board in the controller
Both of my controllers just died on me when I really wanted to play Alyx again, and seeing it cost £250 for replacements, I was thinking of doing this myself, so how hard will it be for a person who has zero experience of doing stuff like this to do this. Also how has the controller fair since compared to the other method of soldering it?
Merci, vous me sauvez la vie, je regarderai à deux fois maintenant avant d'acheter un produit valve
quand je vois les commentaires les accus, on lâcher au bout 2 ans pour certains
Difficilement remplaçable, pas de cache batterie
cela s'apparente à d'arborescence programmée, à quand une loi pour dénoncer les entreprises ? 😈
It won't happen since they will just explain that it's impossible (bullshit) to make battery easilly replacable with such design. They will lie about lack of space etc, and will not give you what you really need. A longevity of a single device without struggles and complex procedures.
Liking the video. Only question so far is the "long thin torx 5". Where did you fine this. I see plenty of T5. I'm looking all over for it so I thought I would ask you where you got yours from. Thank you
Regarding T5 - it's marking of a matching screwdriver head from ifixit kit.
Thanks
I just replaced with the Xinj battery from aliexpress. I am charging the controller now with a USB-C phone charger (power brick is US standard AC to USB-C). The LED on the controller is orange, but every couple minutes or so it blinks white and orange a few times and then goes back to orange. Any idea why it is doing that?
Did you solder or use original connector? Maybe some contact issues?
@@SneakyJoeRu I bought the battery that had the connector attached already. It looks like the connector is flush. However, I let it sit for a few days unplugged and now it won't charge.
Just a followup. I think the plastic connector at the end broke while on the board. I took it out, and when I was checking the battery with a multimeter, the connector broke in half. I ended up soldering on the old connector like in the previous video. SteamVR shows it is charging. However, when the LED turns white indicating full battery, SteamVR only shows 86% change. I am wondering if that is because the replacement is 1000 mAh battery and the original was 1100 mAh?
How should we get rid of the battery after we remove it and get this procedure done? Find somewhere to recycle it or just throw it away?
Recycling only! Throwing it away is irresponsible and will damage the environment, while the battery has precious lithium, resource of which is running low. Normally there are points of collecting batteries in big supermarkets/food stores. There are stations of collecting dangerous waste, which amount other chemicals can receive batteries and send them for proper recycling in the future.
@@SneakyJoesENG and where would they accept this for recycling? At least you showed us there’s a solution to battery life being worn down with the valve index
@@SpringChickensOnlyMan Open maps.google.com. In search field enter "battery recycling"
@@SneakyJoesENG thanks, I actually have a different question now. Have you tried using the valve index controller with the charge wire plugged in but without an internal battery inside the controller?
@@SpringChickensOnlyMan I know it's possible, but I didn't try it myself. There was a thread where a guy was using wires with external batteries instead of batteries inside the controller
Great work. Thank you a lot. Your Video helped me with disassembling.
Do you know about another source for the battery? Unfortunately the link dosn't work anymore (Ali says, it's not available anymore).
I do have a 2 wiring 3.7V 420mAh battery available here. A quick and dirty solution (I played several times using a powerbank wired to the controller...). But it would be great to have a long-term solution also.
Hey, glad it helped. The link works for me in Estonia, but may be country-restricted for you in some cases (like if you're in Germany) - try accessing while having a VPN or proxy with another country on. Also worth trying to contact the seller to work out ways of shipment - they're talkative.
You can get a 3.7v 1000mah battery, which will be essentially the same, but might last a bit less and will require soldering as in my first video on the topic.
@@SneakyJoeRu You are a good one. Thank you. I will try to get in contact with them in case.
I exchanged the battery with a small (430mAh 3.7V 2 wiring) one I have available because tho original one is completely dead (already gassing out...).
But I do not getting the Controller to charge at all. If I connect a charger I see the orange LED but no charging voltage at the battery.
maybe this is the root cause on my side wehy the battery is deep descharged.
So I will investigate that first. It dont make sense to exchange the battery in case the charging does not work at all.
Seems we have a "quality product" with these controllers. :/
@@kweck Just be mindful that without third wire you won't get white led at all - with 2 wires only orange will be shown during charge, and you absolutely must be sure that batteries have bms or you can overcharge them and get them exploded.
After 6 months of use, how well have the new batteries held?
I have both my controllers shutting off automatically after a few secs issue, as if my batteries can't hold charge now.
I've been eyeing these XINJ replacement battery for a few days.
Original batteries held for almost 3.5 years of use and I'm quite sad that Valve doesn't sell replacement.
Hey, I didn't have much time playing with those, unfortunately. When I fleed Russia my Index controllers died and I was busy developing a solution. When I developed a solution, I had to go relocate to a different apartment, so my controllers have about 20 charge cycles at most. But they should generally hold at least 1.5 years if you charge them fully and leave like that or don't remove charger. If you are more reasonable, they should last 2+ years at 80% capacity. They're just standard lipo batteries, there's no reason why they should fail in a special manner, and replacement is fairly cheap, unlike purchasing a new controller. Since this battery is one of the most purchased product in the store, I don't think it will go away anytime soon. :-) If it will go away, I'll try to work on a different replacement for us.
I tore off the whole clamp from the PCB - fair warning to anyone, the clamp is very fragile.
I luckily have the facilities to fix that, but you might not have, so cutting the cables might still be a better option for some.
I ended up soldering the cables directly onto the PCB. Seems to work fine, haven't tested on an index yet, but it turned blue.
@@slimlacy2 If it turned on, it will work. I had the same thing with PSP when I was modding a speaker into UMD compartment. Sorry to hear you tore it down. Did you try to heat the glue before removing it, were you acting slowly?
@@slimlacy2 Oh, and one more thing, can you please send a review to the seller after you do the test and mention that you were following my videos about battery replacement also mentioning to be careful with the port? I hope it will help other buyers, who didn't see my vids.
@@SneakyJoeRu Nah, the glue seemed to be "free" enough that I could mechanically remove all of it easily, big mistake.
Afterwards I did manage to peel off the glue with my nails rather easily though.
I did try to reattach the housing, as we have heating guns specifically for small PCB fixes. But first try only successfully got 2 of the 3 pins, 2nd attempt ruined the housing.
I didn't have much hope for reattaching it though, the pins in the housing can move slightly, and the thin plastic won't survive direct heat from the heatgun, so the lack of space means a heat-up and then attaching without direct heat is troublesome.
Good news though, I used it yesterday and it worked fine.
Thanks for the video!
I'll go leave a review ;)
Don’t even bother trying to remove the stock battery connector from the board. Just butt splice the new battery to the wire leads after you cut the old battery away. The contacts on the board are extremely fragile and if you damage them, your controller is finished.
This is indeed the best way of doing it imo. However, you still can soften the glue with a fan and make the repair safely. After all, my first controller repair not for the video but for myself was made in this way and I didn't have any issues whatsoever.
I'm surprised it's that easy. Mine keeps dying at 35%, may just do this then.