Climbing one of the highest peaks of the Pamirs - Lenin Peak (7134 m) (Part 3)
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- After spending the night at Yukhin Peak, we had to acclimatize in high-altitude camps. It was necessary to climb to the second camp at an altitude of 5300 m. The path, I must say, is not close. Besides, cracks force you to worry all along the way. Departure at 3 a.m., to have time to slip through the main part of the route along the firn, without the hellish heat. It's hard to tell the average transit time. It all depends on the physical fitness, the condition of the route, and the backpack's severity. My fastest ascent is 3 hours (one, porter). Longest 15 hours (with older client). I must say that this time we got there quickly enough.
After spending the night in the second camp, we went further. According to the plan, we had an overnight stay in the third camp, at an altitude of 6100 meters. In my opinion, the transition to the third camp is more comfortable than the second, even despite the height. The final take-off before the third camp is always tricky due to the climb's steepness.
After spending the night in the third camp, we went down to the base to have a good rest before the assault. 3-4 days at the base help to relax, gain strength before the final spurt. The plan is straightforward: camp 1 - camp 2 - camp 3 - assault and descent to camp 3 or 2 - base.
We climbed to Camp 3 and were ready for the assault, but, unfortunately, this time, we were not lucky with the weather. A strong wind blew all night and morning. According to the forecast, this weather was supposed to last a few more days, and therefore we made a strong-willed decision to go down. At this altitude, strong winds are a significant risk factor that should not be underestimated. Climbing in strong winds can result in substantial losses of time and frostbite.
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Высота пика вызывает уважение . А так показан палаточный лагерь в снегу и всё.
Я офигел от лавины под сковордкой. Это была первая лавина которую я видел так близко.