Do you have the single compressor system? Check the relay in the engine compartment (below the master cyclinder) check the compressor has power when the tire inflator is operated (if you have one) or Extended Ride Height (engine has to be running, doors closed) If the compressor has power but physically won't turn it could be seizing when cold. Join the forum www.hummerforums.com and post a message if you need more help.
Thank you for your comment. Do you mean there is no +12V on all these circuits? The only slightly common point here is the I/P Fuse Block (Lower Left Side Of Dash) but none share a common fuse. Measure between the center pin of the outlet and a separate ground. If there is no +12V check AUX PWR 2 Fuse (20A) again in the I/P Fuse Block. If +12V is there check, check for low ohms connectivity from the chassis to the ground side of the outlet. More likely it's a ground problem (corroded eyelet tag) as the rear wiper module and 12V Otutlet share Ground G410 (as does the rear Liftgate Lock / Ajar Switch, Rear Defogger, License Lamps, Center Stop Lamps) it's location is described as "ON RIGHT REAR INNER SIDE BODY PANEL" this would be worth a checking. The air suspension may be a separate issue, again if there's no power (+12V) to the AS-ECU this would be the Underhood HVAC/ECAS Fuse (10A) but this would affect the A/C unit also. No +12V to the Air Relay would be the VSES/ECAS Fuse (60A) also under hood. Check the main connector to the Air Suspension Module bracket but more likely is the ground to the actual metal bracket G402. Please let me know if any of the these suggestions were hepful -- good luck 👍
How does the green/black plastic/yellow wire connector come off the inlet valve assembly? Does it just twist off or is there a trick to it? I don't want to break it. Did cleaning the valve assembly fix your leaking issue? I have replaced the bags and am still leaking down on both sides. I've only removed the entire compressor assembly so far, but my collars and inlet valves are more corroded than yours.
Thanks for you comment. Re the connector - > So I have one in my hand and yes it does twist-off counter-clockwise, it's quite hard because it has a locking action, when you put back in it "locks and clicks" (two hand job but no wrench necessary) Re the Collars etc. -> `This is quite a conundrum, to me it falls into two possible outcomes, they A) can be cleaned-up and saved, so that particulay problem is solved. B) are beyound repair. Now I seem to recall someone fitted 6mm Push-Fit connectors but I have no details. The plastic inlet valve has metal brass looking inserts that grip the collar. The inserts have two IDs, the smaller is approx 7.65mm ID and the larger around 7.85mm, the insert itself seems to have an OD of 10mm. So here is the problem 1/16 BSPP is 7.7mm OD so there would barely be enough to TAP, 1/8 BSP is 9.77mm which would require some pretty slick tapping with only 0.25mm wall thickness left! Again I've just measured these as I have them to-hand. and BTW the collars just push-in and pull-out by hand (when they are clean) If you Google "Push-Fit Collar 6MM" it seems that there are people selling them, also it may be possible to buy a heavy duty metal pushfit and take out the collar, but that's pure speculation on my part. It may also be possible to get some made either machined or 3D printed The larger pipe is 8mm or 5/16" the inlet valve insert ID's are 9.15mm ID and 9.8mm with an OD of approx 13mm, the same issues apply re tapping but worse. 1/8BSP is too small and 1/2BSP too large. From your description it sounds like it could well be the fittings leaking, so may be best to work on them first. If you email Hummerfixes@protonmail.com I may be able to help further with links and pictures, one day this will afeect everyone.
@@hummerfixes I'm not sure my air system is going to be savable. I may need to look into the coil conversion. I removed the valve assembly from the compressor housing. Like yours, I had the cracks along the screw areas. Except mine has massively rusted away. Both screws on both sides have basically disintegrated apart including the screws and retaining metal pieces due to rust. I don't see this valve ever not leaking again and like you, I am unable to find any replacement.
@@copperate Hi Adam, mine too had rusty screws and split plastic, but somehow I managed to extract the screws, re-tap the holes and it held together. In fact I'm looking at it now and the plastic of every screw is badly split, but it still works. I had bigger issues with a dead ECU (which I also fixed) so I bought a a complete unit from a breakers yard, hence I have some future spares. There has to be a solution to this problem, I really love the air-ride but the exposed position of the AS Unit is a big issue. I hope you have some luck with your issue 🙏
Hi there, did you ever figure out what those small plastic pneumatic fittings we’re called? Or were you able to get a part number for them? I need two find a couple of them! Thanks!!
Not aware any of the manifold parts are availabe, but I seem to recall someone fitting standard 6mm bulkhead pneumatic fitting, I so they must have drilled and tapped the plastic housing to fit (8mm for the drier pipe) I found this part "SMC Threaded-to-Tube Pneumatic Fitting, G 1/8 to, Push In 6 mm, KQ2 Series, 1 MPa, 3 (Proof) MPa P/No KQ2H06-G01A" I've not checked the dimensions but you'll get the idea. Hope this helps :-)
Thank you for your comment. Only the original manufacturer knows the name and to the best of my knowledge they are not generally available. It may be possible to tap the inlet hole and fit a standard pneumatic fitting, however there is not a lot of metal to work with so could be very tricky. Sooner or later we will all need a solution for this issue.
thank you for this video. my compressor seems to not work on cold days, still trying to trouble shoot.
Do you have the single compressor system? Check the relay in the engine compartment (below the master cyclinder) check the compressor has power when the tire inflator is operated (if you have one) or Extended Ride Height (engine has to be running, doors closed) If the compressor has power but physically won't turn it could be seizing when cold. Join the forum www.hummerforums.com and post a message if you need more help.
Do you recall what size of pipe goes from the drier to the valve ?
I dont have any power to rear 12v outlet, rear air suspension or rear wiper. Any thoughts?
Thank you for your comment.
Do you mean there is no +12V on all these circuits? The only slightly common point here is the I/P Fuse Block (Lower Left Side Of Dash) but none share a common fuse.
Measure between the center pin of the outlet and a separate ground. If there is no +12V check AUX PWR 2 Fuse (20A) again in the I/P Fuse Block. If +12V is there check, check for low ohms connectivity from the chassis to the ground side of the outlet.
More likely it's a ground problem (corroded eyelet tag) as the rear wiper module and 12V Otutlet share Ground G410 (as does the rear Liftgate Lock / Ajar Switch, Rear Defogger, License Lamps, Center Stop Lamps) it's location is described as "ON RIGHT REAR INNER SIDE BODY PANEL" this would be worth a checking.
The air suspension may be a separate issue, again if there's no power (+12V) to the AS-ECU this would be the Underhood HVAC/ECAS Fuse (10A) but this would affect the A/C unit also. No +12V to the Air Relay would be the VSES/ECAS Fuse (60A) also under hood. Check the main connector to the Air Suspension Module bracket but more likely is the ground to the actual metal bracket G402.
Please let me know if any of the these suggestions were hepful -- good luck 👍
@@hummerfixes thank you for detailed response. Rear wiper, rear 12v , rear defroster do not work, air pump. Ill take a look. Thx so much
Halo jual spare part ECU suspensi mbl hammer h,2
Thanks for posting, perhaps someone will pick up your info. Sounds like you have a AS ECU to sell ?
How does the green/black plastic/yellow wire connector come off the inlet valve assembly? Does it just twist off or is there a trick to it? I don't want to break it. Did cleaning the valve assembly fix your leaking issue? I have replaced the bags and am still leaking down on both sides. I've only removed the entire compressor assembly so far, but my collars and inlet valves are more corroded than yours.
Thanks for you comment.
Re the connector - > So I have one in my hand and yes it does twist-off counter-clockwise, it's quite hard because it has a locking action, when you put back in it "locks and clicks" (two hand job but no wrench necessary)
Re the Collars etc. -> `This is quite a conundrum, to me it falls into two possible outcomes, they
A) can be cleaned-up and saved, so that particulay problem is solved.
B) are beyound repair. Now I seem to recall someone fitted 6mm Push-Fit connectors but I have no details. The plastic inlet valve
has metal brass looking inserts that grip the collar. The inserts have two IDs, the smaller is approx 7.65mm ID and the larger
around 7.85mm, the insert itself seems to have an OD of 10mm. So here is the problem 1/16 BSPP is 7.7mm OD so there would
barely be enough to TAP, 1/8 BSP is 9.77mm which would require some pretty slick tapping with only 0.25mm wall thickness left!
Again I've just measured these as I have them to-hand. and BTW the collars just push-in and pull-out by hand (when they are clean)
If you Google "Push-Fit Collar 6MM" it seems that there are people selling them, also it may be possible to buy a heavy duty metal pushfit and take out the collar, but that's pure speculation on my part. It may also be possible to get some made either machined or 3D printed
The larger pipe is 8mm or 5/16" the inlet valve insert ID's are 9.15mm ID and 9.8mm with an OD of approx 13mm, the same issues apply re tapping but worse. 1/8BSP is too small and 1/2BSP too large.
From your description it sounds like it could well be the fittings leaking, so may be best to work on them first.
If you email Hummerfixes@protonmail.com I may be able to help further with links and pictures, one day this will afeect everyone.
@@hummerfixes I'm not sure my air system is going to be savable. I may need to look into the coil conversion. I removed the valve assembly from the compressor housing. Like yours, I had the cracks along the screw areas. Except mine has massively rusted away. Both screws on both sides have basically disintegrated apart including the screws and retaining metal pieces due to rust. I don't see this valve ever not leaking again and like you, I am unable to find any replacement.
@@copperate Hi Adam, mine too had rusty screws and split plastic, but somehow I managed to extract the screws, re-tap the holes and it held together. In fact I'm looking at it now and the plastic of every screw is badly split, but it still works. I had bigger issues with a dead ECU (which I also fixed) so I bought a a complete unit from a breakers yard, hence I have some future spares.
There has to be a solution to this problem, I really love the air-ride but the exposed position of the AS Unit is a big issue. I hope you have some luck with your issue 🙏
Jual spare part nya hub
Hi there, did you ever figure out what those small plastic pneumatic fittings we’re called? Or were you able to get a part number for them? I need two find a couple of them!
Thanks!!
Not aware any of the manifold parts are availabe, but I seem to recall someone fitting standard 6mm bulkhead pneumatic fitting, I so they must have drilled and tapped the plastic housing to fit (8mm for the drier pipe) I found this part "SMC Threaded-to-Tube Pneumatic Fitting, G 1/8 to, Push In 6 mm, KQ2 Series, 1 MPa, 3 (Proof) MPa P/No KQ2H06-G01A" I've not checked the dimensions but you'll get the idea. Hope this helps :-)
@@hummerfixes Yep, Ok got it! Thanks much for the help brother! 👍🏼
6:06 name of item
Thank you for your comment. Only the original manufacturer knows the name and to the best of my knowledge they are not generally available. It may be possible to tap the inlet hole and fit a standard pneumatic fitting, however there is not a lot of metal to work with so could be very tricky. Sooner or later we will all need a solution for this issue.
Stromnya berapa volt
Terima kasih atas komentarmu. Pukulannya adalah 12V seperti yang Anda harapkan