I so much appreciate this series. Do NOT apologize for using the Plastigauge. It’s CRAZY accurate, in the real world. Your success on the track has proven this. In a couple weeks, I’m going to be buying a second, heavily modified E55, since acquiring a rebuildable engine for my upgrade on my own car has proven unreliable and difficult. Having an owner who knows the issues with their own car,and abandoning the project is a huge benefit to me.
Thank you for these videos. I have never removed or dissembled an engine before. It all started with a rear crankshaft seal leak and before I knew it I had the entire engine torn down. That said, I am now getting ready to re-assemble my Mercedes 560SL engine and I feel your videos will be helpful. I have been documenting the process because nobody on the Internet has ever documented the rebuild of the M117 engine. This has been the scariest thing I have ever done. I sure hope my engine starts.
Awesome video. Also it's amazing to see how much knowledge you have about this engine. Shows how much you are dedicated to this build! Looking forward to seeing this car run again.
I'm geeking out on watching your engine rebuild and the technical aspects regarding clearances and tolerances! I missed the previous videos in the series, because I'm focused on exams, but will catch up next week when I'm all done. Looking forward to hearing your first engine startup. Keep up the good work!
You've learned a lot about engine building. Great documentation helps. AMG motors are built with precision by one person who is a skilled craftsperson and trained on each type of engine they see at their workstation. I am wondering if you'll put your signature on the engine when it's finished? I hope the cylinder walls are smooth enough. While using proper micrometers and the like are the recommended way to go, plasti-gauge is supposed to be very accurate as well. I wish you all the best in the completion of this project. A lot of time and money has gone into it and you have raised the bar on the skill level of the average you-tuber/backyard mechanic. Keep the shiny side up!!
Plastigage isn't "very accurate", but it's good enough in most situations, particularly if your shortblock was in good condition to begin with and all you're doing is freshening it up. This is coming from someone who's had good luck with *just* using plastigage on cheaper rebuilds, but on something more serious where we really couldn't afford the engine to go kapup, a calibrated mic and bore gauge was always used (and maybe followed by plastigaging as a sanity check). Yes, it takes way more time, but again, accuracy isn't plastigage's strong suit. It's just a quick and easy way to see if you're in the ballpark. The other advantage of using plastigage for a novice though is that as long as you follow directions (surfaces are clean, don't spin the crank, etc), it's pretty foolproof. In contrast, using a mic and bore gauge properly takes some experience and feel.
Do Not do what this guy is doing. You cant polish a crank by hand with a fucking rag and you dont use a grinding stone on your crank journals to open the oil passages. This clown has no idea of what the hell he is doing and this motor is a grenade waiting for the pin to be pulled.
Always hope the best for people, but i have to admit, really happy that you blew your engine, or else we wouldn't have these fantastic videos. Keep up the good work.
I'm considering going with a CL500 (550 in the US), either a 2008+ or a 2011+ (facelift). I'm kind of leaning towards the newer one, and part of it is the low end torque of the m278, which I feel would be more suitable for such a heavy car. Which car is your M273 in?
Good, comprehensive video! I personally have found plasti-gauge reliable for accurate measurement. You are correct though, measuring with both an inside micrometer or bridge gauge and a mic on the journal is most accurate."Math" This method will conclusively determine big end ovality. I witnessed the catastrophic failure of a large marine diesel generator because the rods were not properly (big end) round. New precision bearings in an oval big end. Insufficient clearance, partial loss of the oil wedge and seizure. Avoid by bolting rod together, torque and measure inside at multiple arbitrary points for roundness.The articulated edge of the rod ends may also be lapped prior.
The tapered sleeve piston ring compressors are less than $50 from Summit Racing. Those will save you sooner later. Piston heights are less and the older style compressors have great risk of letting a ring slip out and it will break as you tap piston in. The tapered sleeves have a huge advantage as the piston, when oiled, will slip into cylinder with finger pressure and the rod bearing won't fall out or move from tapping.
Good stuff. I've heard from engine assemblers that it's best to fully install and torque each connecting rod and spin the engine each time. That way if it was to bind you know which cylinder is the problem.
Sweet lord at the rod side clearance,, I know on old chevy engines you could machine rod side clearance somewhat for few more pony's, But thats crazy what i just saw in that engine!
Great vid and Plastigage is definitely accurate enough to show you're in tolerance. I agree with you if the Plastiage indicated you were borderline, then worth the expense of ultimate precision. But to see you are at the lower end of the tolerance scale considering how that engine looked when you started tearing it down, well that is quite a testament to the quality of materials and engineering in this motor! I have an old W210 AMG Estate so I find these videos equal parts fascinating, entertaining, inspiring and scary:-) I particularly didn't like the oil pump pump pick up o-ring
Great job ! Just one point, any bolt which has in mounting procedure mentioned last step turn by 90° is not reusable, because 90° is GRADIENT screwing, means bolt is tensioded and deformed.
All this info is like gold. Thank you so much for sharing this. Btw, where did you get all this service info, did you have to buy a service manual? Regards from Croatia.
Are you addressing the weight of the crankshaft counter weights after removing weights from the pistons? Or are you assuming it’s close enough to not make a big imbalance problem.
Do you happen to have any info on the process used to expose the Silicon matrix in the AluSil after honing or machining? I read somewhere that there's a process for doing that, which I imagine involves some sort of acid etching to recess the Aluminium matrix and expose the Silicon grain.
Plastigauge actually is quite accurate. Using micrometer has more possibility for human error and surface imperfection that would bring even more uncertainty into your measurements. In my optinion using plastigauge before final assembly is a must even if the engine has been checked with micrometer, ask any serious engine builder.
DO you have any guess why the bearing on this engine were spun when you took it apart. IM SUPER confused cause you have just established that the main and rod bearing clearance measurements were completely heathy.
It is funny... Back in my days of rebuilding engines plastigage was always considered the "correct & best way" to measure bearing clearances, while using mechanical measuring tools was considered the "quick, less accurate way". I never bought quality bore measuring tools and rebuilt well over 70 engines, dozens of differentials, dozens of transmissions & transfer cases, etc. and not once did I ever have a premature failure related to poorly toleranced components (overboosting, melting pistons, etc. - yes; but that's another story). That actually isn't 100% true. One time I had some cylinders "professionally" bored oversize and I measured an out of spec taper to the bore (using long, flexible feeler gauges between the piston and bore). This was on a high strung 2-stroke snowmobile engine (1978 340RV). Even though it was almost 40 years ago I can still remember the rather tight clearance spec of 0.002" minimum & recommended clearance and I measured it was 0.0005" under that in some places. I brought them back to the machine shop but they insisted they were fine (using a bore measuring tool for the cylinders & micrometer for the pistons) so I ended up putting it together. The motor didn't last 100 miles before it let out a horrible screeching sound and promptly seized the first time I hit the throttle hard. Anyway, I would 100% be fine relying on the plastigauge measurement. The argument back in the day as to why it is superior to measuring tools was mainly that it was a single measurement of the clearances within the complete, torque'd to spec, bearing assembly instead of a calculated difference between several measured parts when using the measuring tools. If we wanted to do what was considered the absolute best measurement we would do plastigauge measurements at several different points and relative rotations of the shaft relative to bearing. To be honest I still consider bore gauges and micrometers as tools for a machine shop to use while machining parts and plastigage and feeler gauges as the best tools to use during final assembly checks.
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing! Everything does seem fine with the engine so far. The oil pressure is also fairly high so I'm guessing the clearances were all good
Is it normal for that much play on the connecting rod ends at the big end? Not sure about this engine, but when I did my rebuild there was very little. (different brand mind you).
I liked your videos regarding your engine rebuilds. I do have a question regarding changing a timing cover on a 2006 E55, could anyone chime in and give me some advice? Its a long story, but the car is in my garage, and unfortunately I have to do the repair in the garage. The specific question I have is regarding the oil pan. What is the best way to remove it? Is it necessary to drop the front subframe or can it be done another way? Any help would be appreciated.
You can try unbolting the engine mounts and see if you can raise the engine high enough to remove the upper and lower oil pans. Depends if there's enough space between the engine and the subframe. I've never tried it that way my self
Depends on power goals really. This is for time attack use so temperatures become a really big problem at high boost levels anyways. Most engine builders I've talked to say the stock block is good for over 20psi boost
Just one thing since now you have rebuild or in the process of rebuilding your engine. Question how old is your automatic transmission because most people do not know is that if you have a old transmission then rebuild or get a new engine and not a second hand one , you’ll soon notice that the transmission will fail due to that extra power the engine now or will make seen this many times since I’ve been in the automotive industry. I’d have a look at the transmission or inspect it just to make sure it’s all in good working conditions
Yes, people do go with steel sleeves. Depends on the power goals really. If its a high horsepower drag racing setup then yeh, it makes a lot of sense doing that
SK8215 I’m a mechanic and tuner .If you can sleeve the block track days generate heat that a street car would never imagine best insurance on a new engine.
But too late at this point. Most guys are building 5.7 with Darton sleeves. But a different piston would also be ideal along with different ring packs. These engines , much like the Porsches are incredibly hard surfaces. Yes, I do agree the Darton sleeved blocks are stronger and yes more expensive to build at this point of parts accumulation.
It only makes sense to go with wet sleeves like Darton but then the block is losing its rigidity, boring out the cylinders and going with typical sleeve inserts is not for performance at all, the heat dissipation is much weaker with sleeves and such engine will not last under heavy use. So no, sleeving is not a good idea, alusil coating is way stronger than steel sleeves and way better thermal dissipation. Sleeves are good only if you desperatelly need to save an engine that has been worn or damaged beyond specs but not for increased performance.
I would definitely do two things- 1) Hose down everything with WD-40 and 2) Install a HD oil cooler. 1) Prevent flash rust 2) Increase oil capacity and help with thermal breakdown. The path of that oil is a long distance in the heat. An extra value item for engine longevity is to install a quality bypass oil filter such as this- www.frantzfilters.com/product/universal-kit/ Very easy to install, cheap to maintain, hyper filtering, extra cooling, and adds another quart to overall capacity. I would enjoy hearing your thoughts on this- negative or positive. Thank you.
I had cleaned down everything with gasoline and wd-40 at that point. I was running a larger oil cooler last time. That worked pretty well for managing oil temps. A bypass oil filter would be a difficult install because it might require tapping into some extra oil lines. I'll definitely keep the idea in mind. If I run into oil issues and have to change up the setup, then it might be worth integrating this at the same time.
The model I listed simply installs where the pressure switch/gauge is, with included T fitting. After the filter, it can go to a tap in the oil pan (or my preferred method) to the valve cover, either with a bulkhead or to the cap. The filtering media is a 1k sheet roll of toilet paper. The system adds approx. 1 quart to overall.
Taking oil from there and returning it in the valve cover means your taking away some of the flow of oil that needs to go to your bearings and instead passing it through a filter. I'm not sure how much flow this filter takes away but usually the filter needs to go right after the oil pump so it flows clean oil to all the engine components. Why do you think the engine requires better filtering anyways? Have you had any issues?
All I know- is that a company and product that has been on the Market for over 60 years must be doing something right. It's called a bypass filter because it uses a metered orifice, not full flow. There is no pressure loss, but a large increase in capacity and extra cooling. The system was originally built for diesel engines. For any further info- please visit the site. I am not a Salesman for anyone.
This is getting me worried. I'm looking at buying an early 2000s CLK500 or E500 but I don't want to be pulling an engine. If it was just being used for street driving I would hope it would give an oil pressure warning before catastrophic failure
It should be fine if the oil system is functioning properly. These engines don't come with an oil pressure sensor or warning. Just install an aftermarket one and monitor the oil pressures. I'm more than certain none of these bearing issues would happen if the oil pressures are kept in check
Side to side play is normal for rod bearings in these engines. If they are fixed they might not move freely because even the crankshaft has some axial play
Hopefully the cylinders and everything else will wear in well. Aren't re-honed cylinders supposed to have a crosshatch pattern in them though? To expedite fitment to the piston rings. Either way be sure to change the oil frequently during the break-in period.
1000$ for fasteners... Mercedes is pretty shitty for pricing of their parts, I needed a new condenser for mine and they quoted 500$ for the part while buying straight from OEM manufacturer (Febi) it was 120$. But I love MB for supporting pretty much any model like 40 years back and still making parts for them.
Antonio Barbic Cheers mate :) 99 Red Balloons is 99 Luft Balloons, and Luftwaffe = Redwings, so I guess German will forever remain a mystery to me...lol!
SK8215 I do agree with you on that, from what I have researched I have come to know that the wider the number of the oil grade the more stable and reliable the oil is. Now for example an oil that is graded at 20w-60 will have a flash point of 220°c but another oil of the same manufacturer graded to be at 10w-60 will have a flash point of say 235°c. I would recommend that you use a multiple grade oil which has the 10w and a 60 because that's the lowest you can get if you want the higher number to be 60. Why I am saying you need the 10 is because it can get cold where you live and that oil needs to flow. No matter the high quality design of the pump, you should be safe than sorry isn't it. For the winter storage go for a 0w-40 or even 30 if you don't pull hard when that oil is in the engine. Plus your decision on the oil for the break in period is good but again go for a multiple grade oil like 0w-50 or 5w50. I am not a sales person at liqui moly but I love that oil because it has this fascinating thing to it that for the usable life of the oil, it clings on to vulnerable parts and helps during start-ups. Good luck with the new engine! Love your channel and hope you keep it up. With Goodwill.
Thats kinda what I was thinking too.. spun bearings. That said, I'm thinking of "back in the day" with the old crap we had to deal with, this Merc crank is no doubt forged, nitrided yadda yadda and it did look suprisingly good nick, so hopefully its OK..
THIS IS THE BEST UA-cam CHANNEL EVER
I so much appreciate this series. Do NOT apologize for using the Plastigauge. It’s CRAZY accurate, in the real world. Your success on the track has proven this. In a couple weeks, I’m going to be buying a second, heavily modified E55, since acquiring a rebuildable engine for my upgrade on my own car has proven unreliable and difficult. Having an owner who knows the issues with their own car,and abandoning the project is a huge benefit to me.
literally the best series on yt right now. thanks man!
Thank you for these videos. I have never removed or dissembled an engine before. It all started with a rear crankshaft seal leak and before I knew it I had the entire engine torn down. That said, I am now getting ready to re-assemble my Mercedes 560SL engine and I feel your videos will be helpful. I have been documenting the process because nobody on the Internet has ever documented the rebuild of the M117 engine. This has been the scariest thing I have ever done. I sure hope my engine starts.
Awesome video. Also it's amazing to see how much knowledge you have about this engine. Shows how much you are dedicated to this build! Looking forward to seeing this car run again.
I'm geeking out on watching your engine rebuild and the technical aspects regarding clearances and tolerances! I missed the previous videos in the series, because I'm focused on exams, but will catch up next week when I'm all done.
Looking forward to hearing your first engine startup.
Keep up the good work!
I love your research and presentation . You really speak to me in a special way.
Now I feel confident to try it out myself!
Damn where did you pick up all this knowledge???
I learnt alot watching this video .nice thank you
You've learned a lot about engine building. Great documentation helps. AMG motors are built with precision by one person who is a skilled craftsperson and trained on each type of engine they see at their workstation. I am wondering if you'll put your signature on the engine when it's finished?
I hope the cylinder walls are smooth enough. While using proper micrometers and the like are the recommended way to go, plasti-gauge is supposed to be very accurate as well.
I wish you all the best in the completion of this project. A lot of time and money has gone into it and you have raised the bar on the skill level of the average you-tuber/backyard mechanic.
Keep the shiny side up!!
Plastigage isn't "very accurate", but it's good enough in most situations, particularly if your shortblock was in good condition to begin with and all you're doing is freshening it up. This is coming from someone who's had good luck with *just* using plastigage on cheaper rebuilds, but on something more serious where we really couldn't afford the engine to go kapup, a calibrated mic and bore gauge was always used (and maybe followed by plastigaging as a sanity check). Yes, it takes way more time, but again, accuracy isn't plastigage's strong suit. It's just a quick and easy way to see if you're in the ballpark. The other advantage of using plastigage for a novice though is that as long as you follow directions (surfaces are clean, don't spin the crank, etc), it's pretty foolproof. In contrast, using a mic and bore gauge properly takes some experience and feel.
Do Not do what this guy is doing. You cant polish a crank by hand with a fucking rag and you dont use a grinding stone on your crank journals to open the oil passages.
This clown has no idea of what the hell he is doing and this motor is a grenade waiting for the pin to be pulled.
@@gregg4164 the engine is still running. If you drop the douche bag, you may be able to pick up some knowledge.
@@gregg4164 no reply?
Addicted to the videos. Lovely!
Good video, organized thorough work man
Always hope the best for people, but i have to admit, really happy that you blew your engine, or else we wouldn't have these fantastic videos. Keep up the good work.
I love engine assemblies, good video thanks!!
You doing very well. Thanks
Keep up the good work, really enjoy watching these. I just finished up rebuilding a m273 myself
I'm considering going with a CL500 (550 in the US), either a 2008+ or a 2011+ (facelift). I'm kind of leaning towards the newer one, and part of it is the low end torque of the m278, which I feel would be more suitable for such a heavy car. Which car is your M273 in?
Mine is in a 2010 SL500 (European spec). I would go with the facelift as the earlier m272/m273 suffer from balance shaft issues.
Good, comprehensive video! I personally have found plasti-gauge reliable for accurate measurement. You are correct though, measuring with both an inside micrometer or bridge gauge and a mic on the journal is most accurate."Math" This method will conclusively determine big end ovality. I witnessed the catastrophic failure of a large marine diesel generator because the rods were not properly (big end) round. New precision bearings in an oval big end. Insufficient clearance, partial loss of the oil wedge and seizure. Avoid by bolting rod together, torque and measure inside at multiple arbitrary points for roundness.The articulated edge of the rod ends may also be lapped prior.
Damn man your a amg guru. Love the videos very informative and detailed 👌
keep up the good work i love your explanations
You're my hero thank you for these videos
Very interesting and thanks for the info.
thanks for the videos, and the time to edit, type torque specs and clearances etc. Tops!
The tapered sleeve piston ring compressors are less than $50 from Summit Racing. Those will save you sooner later. Piston heights are less and the older style compressors have great risk of letting a ring slip out and it will break as you tap piston in. The tapered sleeves have a huge advantage as the piston, when oiled, will slip into cylinder with finger pressure and the rod bearing won't fall out or move from tapping.
awesome cant wait till next vid
Excellent job! Class A!
great channel man. love the video
Good stuff. I've heard from engine assemblers that it's best to fully install and torque each connecting rod and spin the engine each time. That way if it was to bind you know which cylinder is the problem.
Keep up the good work!
Sweet lord at the rod side clearance,, I know on old chevy engines you could machine rod side clearance somewhat for few more pony's, But thats crazy what i just saw in that engine!
Great video
Great vid and Plastigage is definitely accurate enough to show you're in tolerance. I agree with you if the Plastiage indicated you were borderline, then worth the expense of ultimate precision. But to see you are at the lower end of the tolerance scale considering how that engine looked when you started tearing it down, well that is quite a testament to the quality of materials and engineering in this motor! I have an old W210 AMG Estate so I find these videos equal parts fascinating, entertaining, inspiring and scary:-) I particularly didn't like the oil pump pump pick up o-ring
Wow bro your like a motor magician, how did you learn so much ! I love my Benzes but hope my motors stay in one piece because this is too much for me.
It's good practice to mark your bolts BEFORE doing a degree torque. If your marks line up, you know it is torqued.
awesome
Quality content
Instant like as you upload, ill watch the video later tho :)
Does your block have cast iron liners? Great video!
Great job ! Just one point, any bolt which has in mounting procedure mentioned last step turn by 90° is not reusable, because 90° is GRADIENT screwing, means bolt is tensioded and deformed.
I actually like how many times u said ACTUALLY and nobody notices
Do not change ANYTHING from what your doing cause it's just too good :)
All this info is like gold. Thank you so much for sharing this. Btw, where did you get all this service info, did you have to buy a service manual? Regards from Croatia.
you can buy the WIS on ebay.
or download it via forums. (garageforum, mhhauto...) or other semi legal sources.
Carl Benz Awesome, thank you for that information. For some reason I like to just read service manuals, procedures and learn from them
I bought it from emaunal online
Are you addressing the weight of the crankshaft counter weights after removing weights from the pistons? Or are you assuming it’s close enough to not make a big imbalance problem.
Every Good
Do you happen to have any info on the process used to expose the Silicon matrix in the AluSil after honing or machining? I read somewhere that there's a process for doing that, which I imagine involves some sort of acid etching to recess the Aluminium matrix and expose the Silicon grain.
There's a specific lapping paste for it. Search "Sunnen an-30 silicon honing paste"
Just use that paste with a felt hone
what do you use to hon the block 🙏
Plastigauge actually is quite accurate. Using micrometer has more possibility for human error and surface imperfection that would bring even more uncertainty into your measurements. In my optinion using plastigauge before final assembly is a must even if the engine has been checked with micrometer, ask any serious engine builder.
DO you have any guess why the bearing on this engine were spun when you took it apart. IM SUPER confused cause you have just established that the main and rod bearing clearance measurements were completely heathy.
It is funny... Back in my days of rebuilding engines plastigage was always considered the "correct & best way" to measure bearing clearances, while using mechanical measuring tools was considered the "quick, less accurate way". I never bought quality bore measuring tools and rebuilt well over 70 engines, dozens of differentials, dozens of transmissions & transfer cases, etc. and not once did I ever have a premature failure related to poorly toleranced components (overboosting, melting pistons, etc. - yes; but that's another story). That actually isn't 100% true. One time I had some cylinders "professionally" bored oversize and I measured an out of spec taper to the bore (using long, flexible feeler gauges between the piston and bore). This was on a high strung 2-stroke snowmobile engine (1978 340RV). Even though it was almost 40 years ago I can still remember the rather tight clearance spec of 0.002" minimum & recommended clearance and I measured it was 0.0005" under that in some places. I brought them back to the machine shop but they insisted they were fine (using a bore measuring tool for the cylinders & micrometer for the pistons) so I ended up putting it together. The motor didn't last 100 miles before it let out a horrible screeching sound and promptly seized the first time I hit the throttle hard.
Anyway, I would 100% be fine relying on the plastigauge measurement. The argument back in the day as to why it is superior to measuring tools was mainly that it was a single measurement of the clearances within the complete, torque'd to spec, bearing assembly instead of a calculated difference between several measured parts when using the measuring tools. If we wanted to do what was considered the absolute best measurement we would do plastigauge measurements at several different points and relative rotations of the shaft relative to bearing.
To be honest I still consider bore gauges and micrometers as tools for a machine shop to use while machining parts and plastigage and feeler gauges as the best tools to use during final assembly checks.
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing! Everything does seem fine with the engine so far. The oil pressure is also fairly high so I'm guessing the clearances were all good
Is it normal for that much play on the connecting rod ends at the big end? Not sure about this engine, but when I did my rebuild there was very little. (different brand mind you).
I liked your videos regarding your engine rebuilds. I do have a question regarding changing a timing cover on a 2006 E55, could anyone chime in and give me some advice? Its a long story, but the car is in my garage, and unfortunately I have to do the repair in the garage. The specific question I have is regarding the oil pan. What is the best way to remove it? Is it necessary to drop the front subframe or can it be done another way? Any help would be appreciated.
You can try unbolting the engine mounts and see if you can raise the engine high enough to remove the upper and lower oil pans. Depends if there's enough space between the engine and the subframe. I've never tried it that way my self
even with the proper measuring tools you should still check it with pasti-gage.
Why didn't you install block sleeves, e.g. Darton 900-600?
Depends on power goals really. This is for time attack use so temperatures become a really big problem at high boost levels anyways. Most engine builders I've talked to say the stock block is good for over 20psi boost
Just one thing since now you have rebuild or in the process of rebuilding your engine. Question how old is your automatic transmission because most people do not know is that if you have a old transmission then rebuild or get a new engine and not a second hand one , you’ll soon notice that the transmission will fail due to that extra power the engine now or will make seen this many times since I’ve been in the automotive industry. I’d have a look at the transmission or inspect it just to make sure it’s all in good working conditions
Gaz Girl that Mercedes transmission is bullet proof as fuck, same tranny as the v12 biturbo that has 600 torque
I might have missed it. Did you use lube on the bearing surfaces while assembling?
No, just engine oil
@@xfmotorsports well at least it was something! Lol i thought for a minute you assembled it dry. Phew
The e55 has a aluminum block.Is it possible to get the block sleeved.Great video
Yes, people do go with steel sleeves. Depends on the power goals really. If its a high horsepower drag racing setup then yeh, it makes a lot of sense doing that
SK8215 I’m a mechanic and tuner .If you can sleeve the block track days generate heat that a street car would never imagine best insurance on a new engine.
But too late at this point. Most guys are building 5.7 with Darton sleeves. But a different piston would also be ideal along with different ring packs. These engines , much like the Porsches are incredibly hard surfaces. Yes, I do agree the Darton sleeved blocks are stronger and yes more expensive to build at this point of parts accumulation.
It only makes sense to go with wet sleeves like Darton but then the block is losing its rigidity, boring out the cylinders and going with typical sleeve inserts is not for performance at all, the heat dissipation is much weaker with sleeves and such engine will not last under heavy use. So no, sleeving is not a good idea, alusil coating is way stronger than steel sleeves and way better thermal dissipation. Sleeves are good only if you desperatelly need to save an engine that has been worn or damaged beyond specs but not for increased performance.
I would definitely do two things- 1) Hose down everything with WD-40 and 2) Install a HD oil cooler. 1) Prevent flash rust 2) Increase oil capacity and help with thermal breakdown. The path of that oil is a long distance in the heat. An extra value item for engine longevity is to install a quality bypass oil filter such as this- www.frantzfilters.com/product/universal-kit/ Very easy to install, cheap to maintain, hyper filtering, extra cooling, and adds another quart to overall capacity. I would enjoy hearing your thoughts on this- negative or positive. Thank you.
I had cleaned down everything with gasoline and wd-40 at that point. I was running a larger oil cooler last time. That worked pretty well for managing oil temps. A bypass oil filter would be a difficult install because it might require tapping into some extra oil lines. I'll definitely keep the idea in mind. If I run into oil issues and have to change up the setup, then it might be worth integrating this at the same time.
The model I listed simply installs where the pressure switch/gauge is, with included T fitting. After the filter, it can go to a tap in the oil pan (or my preferred method) to the valve cover, either with a bulkhead or to the cap. The filtering media is a 1k sheet roll of toilet paper. The system adds approx. 1 quart to overall.
Taking oil from there and returning it in the valve cover means your taking away some of the flow of oil that needs to go to your bearings and instead passing it through a filter. I'm not sure how much flow this filter takes away but usually the filter needs to go right after the oil pump so it flows clean oil to all the engine components. Why do you think the engine requires better filtering anyways? Have you had any issues?
All I know- is that a company and product that has been on the Market for over 60 years must be doing something right. It's called a bypass filter because it uses a metered orifice, not full flow. There is no pressure loss, but a large increase in capacity and extra cooling. The system was originally built for diesel engines. For any further info- please visit the site. I am not a Salesman for anyone.
Can the forged connecting rods from the M113k physically fit into M113?
Not sure if the lengths are the same but they should fit if they are swapped along with the crankshaft and pistons from the m113k
remember to upgrade rod bolts either way :)
Pls can you tell me the part number of the
Main bearings ?
Engine connecting rod bearings? and
The piston rings?
Thank you in advance ☺
This is getting me worried. I'm looking at buying an early 2000s CLK500 or E500 but I don't want to be pulling an engine.
If it was just being used for street driving I would hope it would give an oil pressure warning before catastrophic failure
It should be fine if the oil system is functioning properly. These engines don't come with an oil pressure sensor or warning. Just install an aftermarket one and monitor the oil pressures. I'm more than certain none of these bearing issues would happen if the oil pressures are kept in check
Yeah. I'm way to lazy to pull the engine to do the o-ring
I cant wait to watch this engine blow the fuck up.
gregg4164 you dont have the brains of this man, your 10 levels below him hehehe
Why do the rod bearing caps have so much play?
Side to side play is normal for rod bearings in these engines. If they are fixed they might not move freely because even the crankshaft has some axial play
Hopefully the cylinders and everything else will wear in well. Aren't re-honed cylinders supposed to have a crosshatch pattern in them though? To expedite fitment to the piston rings. Either way be sure to change the oil frequently during the break-in period.
The block is alusil. Which basically is aluminum and glass. So crosshatch would be extremely bad.
dude where do you live? I'll make you my main mechanic.
1000$ for fasteners... Mercedes is pretty shitty for pricing of their parts, I needed a new condenser for mine and they quoted 500$ for the part while buying straight from OEM manufacturer (Febi) it was 120$. But I love MB for supporting pretty much any model like 40 years back and still making parts for them.
G = Gelb
Just out of curiosity, if G="yellow" (gelb in German) why does R="red"??? Red in German is "Luft". Shouldn't it be an "L"?
Antonio Barbic Cheers mate :) 99 Red Balloons is 99 Luft Balloons, and Luftwaffe = Redwings, so I guess German will forever remain a mystery to me...lol!
Can you rebuild my engine is 2001 E320
I don’t have to money to do it thanks.
Use liqui moly racing 10w-60 oil.
I was running a 60 weight before but I'll probably go with a 50 weight, at least for the initial brake in because the clearances are smaller now
SK8215
I do agree with you on that, from what I have researched I have come to know that the wider the number of the oil grade the more stable and reliable the oil is. Now for example an oil that is graded at 20w-60 will have a flash point of 220°c but another oil of the same manufacturer graded to be at 10w-60 will have a flash point of say 235°c. I would recommend that you use a multiple grade oil which has the 10w and a 60 because that's the lowest you can get if you want the higher number to be 60. Why I am saying you need the 10 is because it can get cold where you live and that oil needs to flow. No matter the high quality design of the pump, you should be safe than sorry isn't it. For the winter storage go for a 0w-40 or even 30 if you don't pull hard when that oil is in the engine. Plus your decision on the oil for the break in period is good but again go for a multiple grade oil like 0w-50 or 5w50. I am not a sales person at liqui moly but I love that oil because it has this fascinating thing to it that for the usable life of the oil, it clings on to vulnerable parts and helps during start-ups.
Good luck with the new engine! Love your channel and hope you keep it up.
With Goodwill.
Awesome but oil squirters = nozzles
A fellow AMGer what a super job your doing check out my C55 track car on my channel
Please don’t clean with gasoline! Your smarter than that. Use diesel if you clean with a solvent. It will also leave a lube film.
Gelb, Rot, Gelb, Rot, Rot :)
Ohh my... That engine will not live more than a few hours. you cant just polish a ruined crank, esp. not by yourself :/
Thats kinda what I was thinking too.. spun bearings. That said, I'm thinking of "back in the day" with the old crap we had to deal with, this Merc crank is no doubt forged, nitrided yadda yadda and it did look suprisingly good nick, so hopefully its OK..
plastiguage........ dag