I am looking forward to either getting to hire your company to do my garage floor for me,or utilizing what I have learned from this video and or doing it myself. This video was most helpful on any questions i had on the start to finish of the project that have planned for my home in Magnolia Texas, Thank you so much. I highly recommend your work and your videos.
yes we do. unfortunately when i started in 2003 my first year i lost hundreds of dollars showing up on a Saturday morning with two guys to have people constantly cancel last minute. I had promised the guys work and since they had canceled their other job I was obligated to give them money. Plus I lost out on other customers who would have booked that day. after I went to the deposit people didn't cancel anymore, I've made a few mistakes and let people convince me that they're not going to cancel but it's always those people that are most difficult to get paid on. The amounts of business that I lose because of requiring a deposit is very small compared to the amount of money I lost because of people who canceled.
Acetone is the fastest drying solvent so I don't like using it for polyaspartic because it doesn't give you much working time. I use xylene because it dries slower. But when it is hot and I need even more time I use R7k132 by Shewrin Williams bc it dries really slow and helps with roller marks.
@@houstongaragefloors nice good info. I recently did the back of my body shop with 100% solids epoxy, 1 pound of pigment per 2 gallons, no thinners and actually got it good. They key was spreading it out as soon as possible after you dump it out. When we first dump it it's very thin and moves easy. Give it 5-10 min it's syrup. For a guy who has only done epoxy floors twice, I was happy with it!
awesome I'm glad that it was a success. The first time I used 100% solids epoxy I left it in the bucket too long and it turned into a rock! lol@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937
yea i feel for him every time i watch this video. i didn't plan on talking that long but when i get going it is hard to stop! i greatly appreciate this young mans patience while i talk, much appreciated.
It really just depends on how many you want. If you're doing a chip floor then you put down the poly aspartic and then put chips on top of it and then clear polyspartic on top of the chips because you cannot leave chips without a clear coat. If your floor is rough then you will need a primer before all of this in order to make it more level so that's probably why some people use three coats
lol... yeah all my friends joke about that! It was actually only supposed to be a 30 second video I told him to hold on and wait until I start grinding but I just kept thinking of things to talk about and it turned out to be a good video. lol
Tanks Great Tips!!! Brother on the Prep steps / Why not As first step High Pressure Wash the Concrete with good Industrial Degreaser making sure No grease prior to Grinding? Isn't Pre Cleaning the Floor 1st Prep Step after Floor Inspection? Checking and Leaning From all the Killer Videos from Different Companies & Independent Installers Saludos & Thanks!!!
Great Question. If you degreased and power washed then you would still need to acid wash and power wash afterwards. degreasing removes grease but it does not create a concrete profile. a concrete profile is roughness. If you pour acid on concrete and then power wash it it will make the concrete rough. So yes you could decrease and then acid wash but you would have to wait for the floor to dry and that takes time and money. The cost of the acid and the time associated with degreasing and power washing cost more than the price of diamond grinding.
I'm not sure what you mean So I will answer the question two different ways... Yes you can typically coat metal if you grind it first. some people add aluminum oxide into the coating for traction and yes you can do this too
If the concrete hasn’t been poured yet, would brushing take the place of etching or blasting? Or best to do smooth and then blast a couple months later?
Late reply... but I would prep every floor, and not count on any kind of finish be sufficient as so. Concrete must also sit for a minimum of 28 days for the moisture to cure out of the concrete completely. Otherwise the water would work it's way upward and pop your coatings off
You actually want a smooth hard troweled surface. Broomstick finished concrete is very weak, because the ridges crumble since the rocks were pushed deep and down by the bristles of the broom. So if you have broomstick finished concrete then you need to grind it flush. You want someone to pour the slab as normal (smooth hard trowel). Then do your diamond grinding.
I'm surprised you can profile to a level 2 or 3 with that machine? Thought they need to be heavier? And I'm not sure, but I think aliphatic means something different?
Good observation. That concrete looks extremely soft. Luckily for them I'm sure a light grinder would be okay. If he goes to any kind of commercial setting. The concrete would just laugh at the grinder they're using.
Great Information. You are very knowledgeable about the job you do. Thanks!
Thank you for the encouragement Jose!
This guy knows his stuff
I am looking forward to either getting to hire your company to do my garage floor for me,or utilizing what I have learned from this video and or doing it myself.
This video was most helpful on any questions i had on the start to finish of the project that have planned for my home in Magnolia Texas,
Thank you so much. I highly recommend your work and your videos.
Thank you Donna did you end up doing your floor?
Awesome instructional information and instructor!
Thank you Michael
This was amazing!! 🙌🏽🙌🏽
Great information! Do you guys charge a deposit before installing a floor like that?
yes we do. unfortunately when i started in 2003 my first year i lost hundreds of dollars showing up on a Saturday morning with two guys to have people constantly cancel last minute. I had promised the guys work and since they had canceled their other job I was obligated to give them money. Plus I lost out on other customers who would have booked that day. after I went to the deposit people didn't cancel anymore, I've made a few mistakes and let people convince me that they're not going to cancel but it's always those people that are most difficult to get paid on. The amounts of business that I lose because of requiring a deposit is very small compared to the amount of money I lost because of people who canceled.
Great video. Do you like to thin epoxy with acetone? Or what thinner do you like
Acetone is the fastest drying solvent so I don't like using it for polyaspartic because it doesn't give you much working time. I use xylene because it dries slower. But when it is hot and I need even more time I use R7k132 by Shewrin Williams bc it dries really slow and helps with roller marks.
@@houstongaragefloors nice good info. I recently did the back of my body shop with 100% solids epoxy, 1 pound of pigment per 2 gallons, no thinners and actually got it good. They key was spreading it out as soon as possible after you dump it out. When we first dump it it's very thin and moves easy. Give it 5-10 min it's syrup. For a guy who has only done epoxy floors twice, I was happy with it!
awesome I'm glad that it was a success. The first time I used 100% solids epoxy I left it in the bucket too long and it turned into a rock! lol@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937
Thanks for the info, great presentation!
I appreciate it Jerry
The guy in the back quietly waiting with face to the wall the whole video to start working again.
yea i feel for him every time i watch this video. i didn't plan on talking that long but when i get going it is hard to stop! i greatly appreciate this young mans patience while i talk, much appreciated.
how many coats does Poly need? I see some companies do 2, and some only 1. Also, some do the whole job in 1 day, vs others that do 2-3 days.
It really just depends on how many you want. If you're doing a chip floor then you put down the poly aspartic and then put chips on top of it and then clear polyspartic on top of the chips because you cannot leave chips without a clear coat. If your floor is rough then you will need a primer before all of this in order to make it more level so that's probably why some people use three coats
Great video man… but what is your guy doing in the back? Look like he is frozen… kinda creepy 😂
lol... yeah all my friends joke about that! It was actually only supposed to be a 30 second video I told him to hold on and wait until I start grinding but I just kept thinking of things to talk about and it turned out to be a good video. lol
Tanks Great Tips!!!
Brother on the Prep steps / Why not As first step High Pressure Wash the Concrete with good Industrial Degreaser making sure No grease prior to Grinding? Isn't Pre Cleaning the Floor 1st Prep Step after Floor Inspection?
Checking and Leaning From all the Killer Videos from Different Companies & Independent Installers
Saludos & Thanks!!!
Great Question. If you degreased and power washed then you would still need to acid wash and power wash afterwards. degreasing removes grease but it does not create a concrete profile. a concrete profile is roughness. If you pour acid on concrete and then power wash it it will make the concrete rough. So yes you could decrease and then acid wash but you would have to wait for the floor to dry and that takes time and money. The cost of the acid and the time associated with degreasing and power washing cost more than the price of diamond grinding.
Great info on this video. How long does my concrete garage floor have to cure before a polyaspartic coating can be applied?
Most fabricator’s will ask 30 days minimum for the resin to be applied.
30 days technically
Can polyaspartic be done for the garage in metal with a grit added top coat?
Not sure what you mean by "in metal"? But you can add grit to the top just like any other coating.
I'm not sure what you mean So I will answer the question two different ways... Yes you can typically coat metal if you grind it first. some people add aluminum oxide into the coating for traction and yes you can do this too
If the concrete hasn’t been poured yet, would brushing take the place of etching or blasting? Or best to do smooth and then blast a couple months later?
Late reply... but I would prep every floor, and not count on any kind of finish be sufficient as so. Concrete must also sit for a minimum of 28 days for the moisture to cure out of the concrete completely. Otherwise the water would work it's way upward and pop your coatings off
You actually want a smooth hard troweled surface. Broomstick finished concrete is very weak, because the ridges crumble since the rocks were pushed deep and down by the bristles of the broom. So if you have broomstick finished concrete then you need to grind it flush. You want someone to pour the slab as normal (smooth hard trowel). Then do your diamond grinding.
I have been looking at floor coverings and this is the one i want, where can I find it? through SW store?
Ty Jimmy
Yes call Sherwin williams on Century Plaza in Houston Texas
I'm surprised you can profile to a level 2 or 3 with that machine? Thought they need to be heavier? And I'm not sure, but I think aliphatic means something different?
Good observation. That concrete looks extremely soft. Luckily for them I'm sure a light grinder would be okay. If he goes to any kind of commercial setting. The concrete would just laugh at the grinder they're using.
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Lololololol