The more expensive fret pullers at StewMac are made by a Japanese brand called 3 Peaks. They’re the TC-10 model, made for flush-cutting plastic. They’re available for less from other suppliers, but still around 50-60 bucks.
I've been using these 'cheap' pliers/cutters for years, just as you describe. I clean the inside edges up with a chainsaw file, clamp the closed handles between 2 blocks so they'll mount in a vise handles up, and you can see what you're doing. S
I was in HF today and was looking at their set of precision pliers. The set includes one similar to the what you showed and while inspecting the set I thought... "Those sure look like fret pullers." I've seen some inexpensive ones on Amazon, but no idea if they are fit for service. Thanks for sharing!
I have a fret puller just like the orange handle ones here. They have pulled many, many frets on Gibsons and Martins since the middle 1980's and are still going strong!! Of course I had to grind them to the right profile as show here. And I have a # 356 Channel Lock end nipper that has done way over 100 fret jobs from the same time period and they are still going. So you don't have to have the pricey specialized tools to do a good job and last a long time too.
I got mine at Tractor Supply Company. It was a few bucks more than the HFT cutter but was already sharp enough and flush enough to pull frets. I don't have it handy to get the brand name off it.
I have a possible video topic. For guitar tops, is it better to use flat or radiused braces and what effects are there between the two? Does he amount of radiusing make a difference?
From your description, you would end up with a square shouldered OM guitar. If you could perfect the blending of those two shapes, you could make an excellent guitar. I think the actual shape of the guitar is less important than the area of vibrating top that is available. I think you should pursue your idea. It could be unique and made to produce very pleasing tone.
Thank you for that comment. I hope many read it. I believe you're correct. If you wait until you can buy backhoe, you'll never get a rose bush planted.
The more expensive fret pullers at StewMac are made by a Japanese brand called 3 Peaks. They’re the TC-10 model, made for flush-cutting plastic. They’re available for less from other suppliers, but still around 50-60 bucks.
I've been using these 'cheap' pliers/cutters for years, just as you describe. I clean the inside edges up with a chainsaw file, clamp the closed handles between 2 blocks so they'll mount in a vise handles up, and you can see what you're doing. S
I was in HF today and was looking at their set of precision pliers. The set includes one similar to the what you showed and while inspecting the set I thought... "Those sure look like fret pullers." I've seen some inexpensive ones on Amazon, but no idea if they are fit for service. Thanks for sharing!
Great info on the HFT Mods, and the company that will remain nameless. I like cheap.
I have a fret puller just like the orange handle ones here. They have pulled many, many frets on Gibsons and Martins since the middle 1980's and are still going strong!! Of course I had to grind them to the right profile as show here. And I have a # 356 Channel Lock end nipper that has done way over 100 fret jobs from the same time period and they are still going. So you don't have to have the pricey specialized tools to do a good job and last a long time too.
I got mine at Tractor Supply Company. It was a few bucks more than the HFT cutter but was already sharp enough and flush enough to pull frets. I don't have it handy to get the brand name off it.
Where I have trouble is with really old instruments with ebony fretboards. They tend to chip easily.
I couldn't agree more. I don't have any of those fingerboard protectors, but i wouldn't try to lift a single fret from an Ebony board without them.
Did the exact same thing a couple of years ago. Used my stationary belt sander if I recall. They work great.
Me too. Seems obvious.
Great suggestion, Kevin. Thank you for sharing.
I have a possible video topic. For guitar tops, is it better to use flat or radiused braces and what effects are there between the two? Does he amount of radiusing make a difference?
hello, if you build an acoustic guitar with two different shapes, upper part drenouoght and lower part OM what happens?
From your description, you would end up with a square shouldered OM guitar. If you could perfect the blending of those two shapes, you could make an excellent guitar. I think the actual shape of the guitar is less important than the area of vibrating top that is available. I think you should pursue your idea. It could be unique and made to produce very pleasing tone.
You got my “like” when you mentioned the supplier you love to hate lol…
Granadillo fretboard?
Brazilian Cherry.
Nothing wrong with working within one's means. At least in the beginning, just so you can get started and learn, instead of waiting for that payday.
Thank you for that comment. I hope many read it. I believe you're correct. If you wait until you can buy backhoe, you'll never get a rose bush planted.