Just stumbled across your video, nice to hear an explanation of setup, thank you! And you're using the XR8 combo - which I've just bought the exact same one... It's good to see how well it runs. At the moment I just a Hobao SSTe Truggy on a grassy/dirt track here in the UK, just for fun (our BRCA don't have an electric 1/8 Truggy class as yet - but when they do I plan on giving it a crack when time allows). My Truggy uses a sensorless Toro 4268 2650kv motor on 4S - it shifts, But, considering its price-tag it's certainly raised a few eye brows as to how good it actually is on track. I've put 600cst oil to the front shocks, 550cst to the rear, with 10k cst front diff, 7k rear diff, and 50k to the centre, which I've now changed to a very gloopy 300k cst as it would easily spin up the front axle - what an unreal difference in traction now, much more pleasing. The truck itself, I feel, is aimed at track use, all I've done is fit my own electrics, oils, and changed its wheels/tyres. Chuffed to bits with it!
I tried to start the nitro T4 for the first time last night. It didn’t go so well. The AD3 started then stalled I couldn’t get it restated and burnt up my stater box wheel. There are so many variables in nitro. Was the fly wheel too far away from the starter box wheel and not making good contact. Did I not heat the engine up enough, was the engine flooded with fuel. It came with the Adam drake break in and I checked all the carb settings to Adams specs. A similar issue happened when I got my losi 5t. I got it running and it stalled couldn’t get it restarted got frustrated then after checking the carb settings I found that they weren’t set properly from the factory now my 5t runs perfect every time. Hopefully I’ll get it figured out.
It sounds like a combination between the engine being new and having lots of compression and possibly being flooded. I run the same engine and it’s fantastic! If you run into this issue pull the car off the box and turn the flywheel in the opposite direction to get it unlocked. Then try starting again. You can also pull the glow plug to get the excess fuel out but usually not an issue. Also being new its very important to fully soak the engine in heat.
@@SuperFastRc update with success. Heat heat and heat is the key to success. Replaced my starter box wheel today and got my protek head warmer from amain. Went and got a corded heat gun my Milwaukee cordless wasn’t cutting it for this task. Got the AD3 up to a better temp with a little sub throttle trim and successfully started and ran my first full tank and cooled at bottom dead center. Sweet victory for my first nitro engine and RC build the RC8T4.
@@freerangehuman1976 Awesome! Once you get your initial 4 tank breakin done you can start leaning it out. Really the tune is pretty close already. Once you get it set its pretty much good to be honest. I have not touched my carb settings at all this season on my AD3 💪
@@SuperFastRc at idle it seems be burning a lot of fuel really fast. I would assume leaning out the low speed after the 4 tank breakin would make sense right? Is this what you did or you haven’t touched any of the carb settings at all?
@@freerangehuman1976 Yes once you lean it out per adams instructions that rich idle will go away. It will idle perfectly and idle without any blipping for at least a minute or more.
Just an fyi if you use the rc8t3 front body mounts they are a bit higher so you get more clearance on the shocks. and they work way better. i ended up using those couse i also like the truck bodys better. IMO its what makes it a truggy and not just a bigger buggy.
Just got one of these. Any recommendations for diff fluids on a rough low traction track? I normally run X-RAYs and it seems like these like higher fluids
I have seen the HB at the track it seems just as good as any other. I have heard getting parts can be a bit of an issue sometimes from local racers. These top level drivers can really drive anything, look at how phend pushes that TLR…
Just a quick tip I was going to put a jconcepts Bruggy body on my t4 but changed my mind and went with the jconcepts finisher truggy body instead. During the fitting of the body I also realized that the front body post for the t4 are too long and too close to the windshield of the truggy body like you did. Then I remembered team associated says on their website to use a rc8t3 body on the t4 because they weren’t providing one with the kit. Jconcepts says the finisher body is a direct fit to the rc8t3 but this is not the case with the rc8t4 because the mounts are too long. I didn’t like the idea of the body mounts being so close to the windshield so I looked up the front body mounts for the rc8t3 and in fact they are shorter then the ones supplied with the t4 which would move them away from the windshield of the body. I believe they will be a better choice for fitting the truggy body to a t4. Take a look for yourself tell me what you think. I’m not sure why team associated suggests putting an RC8t3 body on the T4 and not supply the rc8t3 body mounts but go figure.
Great review! Can you post a link or part number of that Mugen 50T spur? Looking for it for some time! Also would you suggest those springs for my T3.2e too?
@@SuperFastRc The same as on mine T3.2e - I'm running HBW 2250kv motor. Regarding HD arms - try to boil them in hot water for 15 minutes - this should help.
No denying the Tekno is a good truck as I have run that new platform. The biggest difference I would say between the two is that my T4 is less frantic on the limit and as a whole. I feel like if I got behind the Tekno as a driver, I struggled to get it back. The T4 is easier to run on my limit without it being frantic and tiring.
Right i get the same feeling, when driven within its limits the T4 is very calm. When you push it to or over the limit its easy to get it back on track. I have not driven the Tekno but in comparison to my old Chub XT8 i get that feeling. The Chub does not like to be pushed over the limit.
so nice to see a real truggy body, not just a buggy with big tires
Just stumbled across your video, nice to hear an explanation of setup, thank you! And you're using the XR8 combo - which I've just bought the exact same one... It's good to see how well it runs. At the moment I just a Hobao SSTe Truggy on a grassy/dirt track here in the UK, just for fun (our BRCA don't have an electric 1/8 Truggy class as yet - but when they do I plan on giving it a crack when time allows). My Truggy uses a sensorless Toro 4268 2650kv motor on 4S - it shifts, But, considering its price-tag it's certainly raised a few eye brows as to how good it actually is on track. I've put 600cst oil to the front shocks, 550cst to the rear, with 10k cst front diff, 7k rear diff, and 50k to the centre, which I've now changed to a very gloopy 300k cst as it would easily spin up the front axle - what an unreal difference in traction now, much more pleasing. The truck itself, I feel, is aimed at track use, all I've done is fit my own electrics, oils, and changed its wheels/tyres. Chuffed to bits with it!
Thanks for the compliment! You will like the motor system! It’s definitely and upgrade for you.
I tried to start the nitro T4 for the first time last night. It didn’t go so well. The AD3 started then stalled I couldn’t get it restated and burnt up my stater box wheel. There are so many variables in nitro. Was the fly wheel too far away from the starter box wheel and not making good contact. Did I not heat the engine up enough, was the engine flooded with fuel. It came with the Adam drake break in and I checked all the carb settings to Adams specs. A similar issue happened when I got my losi 5t. I got it running and it stalled couldn’t get it restarted got frustrated then after checking the carb settings I found that they weren’t set properly from the factory now my 5t runs perfect every time. Hopefully I’ll get it figured out.
It sounds like a combination between the engine being new and having lots of compression and possibly being flooded. I run the same engine and it’s fantastic! If you run into this issue pull the car off the box and turn the flywheel in the opposite direction to get it unlocked. Then try starting again. You can also pull the glow plug to get the excess fuel out but usually not an issue. Also being new its very important to fully soak the engine in heat.
@@SuperFastRc update with success. Heat heat and heat is the key to success. Replaced my starter box wheel today and got my protek head warmer from amain. Went and got a corded heat gun my Milwaukee cordless wasn’t cutting it for this task. Got the AD3 up to a better temp with a little sub throttle trim and successfully started and ran my first full tank and cooled at bottom dead center. Sweet victory for my first nitro engine and RC build the RC8T4.
@@freerangehuman1976 Awesome! Once you get your initial 4 tank breakin done you can start leaning it out. Really the tune is pretty close already. Once you get it set its pretty much good to be honest. I have not touched my carb settings at all this season on my AD3 💪
@@SuperFastRc at idle it seems be burning a lot of fuel really fast. I would assume leaning out the low speed after the 4 tank breakin would make sense right? Is this what you did or you haven’t touched any of the carb settings at all?
@@freerangehuman1976 Yes once you lean it out per adams instructions that rich idle will go away. It will idle perfectly and idle without any blipping for at least a minute or more.
Good info man. Thank you
Just an fyi if you use the rc8t3 front body mounts they are a bit higher so you get more clearance on the shocks. and they work way better. i ended up using those couse i also like the truck bodys better. IMO its what makes it a truggy and not just a bigger buggy.
How would you compare this to the tlr 8ight xte?
This one will have more steering on power in the corner than the tlr. I know that much.
Hi, do you have the part numbers for the front and rear tekno springs? Thx
TKR6081 rear , TKR6090 front
@@SuperFastRc Sweet, thx a bunch
Just got one of these. Any recommendations for diff fluids on a rough low traction track? I normally run X-RAYs and it seems like these like higher fluids
Right mow I’m on 12.5f 10c and 8r
What do you thin’ about HB they look solid like the tekno? 2 HB buggy’s got 2 and 3 in the Las Vegas silver state pro nitro buggy race.
I have seen the HB at the track it seems just as good as any other. I have heard getting parts can be a bit of an issue sometimes from local racers. These top level drivers can really drive anything, look at how phend pushes that TLR…
Where can I find that esc to motor wire hold down, and what do you call it?
I first noticed this in your 8b4e video, I believe that was your video.
So it comes with the kit, you can also buy it with the RX box replacement parts
Just a quick tip I was going to put a jconcepts Bruggy body on my t4 but changed my mind and went with the jconcepts finisher truggy body instead. During the fitting of the body I also realized that the front body post for the t4 are too long and too close to the windshield of the truggy body like you did. Then I remembered team associated says on their website to use a rc8t3 body on the t4 because they weren’t providing one with the kit. Jconcepts says the finisher body is a direct fit to the rc8t3 but this is not the case with the rc8t4 because the mounts are too long. I didn’t like the idea of the body mounts being so close to the windshield so I looked up the front body mounts for the rc8t3 and in fact they are shorter then the ones supplied with the t4 which would move them away from the windshield of the body. I believe they will be a better choice for fitting the truggy body to a t4. Take a look for yourself tell me what you think. I’m not sure why team associated suggests putting an RC8t3 body on the T4 and not supply the rc8t3 body mounts but go figure.
Rc8t3 front body mount part number 81323
Its a truck body orr Truggy body like said on box..Plz stop with this bruggy crap what is that lol
Great review! Can you post a link or part number of that Mugen 50T spur? Looking for it for some time! Also would you suggest those springs for my T3.2e too?
Actually its the stock plastic spur. I am using a 15t mugen pinions.
@@SuperFastRc The same as on mine T3.2e - I'm running HBW 2250kv motor. Regarding HD arms - try to boil them in hot water for 15 minutes - this should help.
@@JohnieDSM I will have to do that on my next set, Thanks!
@@SuperFastRc Would you recommend those Tekno springs for my T3.2e too? If you would, could you send part numbers for those?
@@JohnieDSM TKR6090 front. TKR6081 Rear.
How is the wear on the drivetrain? Like outdrives, thanks
After a whole season of racing, not bad at all. I see no reason to replace any pins or outdrives at this time 👍
Thanks alot
I know it’s an older video, but what spares do you normally carry with you for the truck?
Front arms, upper and lower.
I would also recommend the new V2 front shock tower. 👍
www.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/parts/details/81624-ASC81624-rc8t4_front_shock_tower_v2_black_aluminum/
No denying the Tekno is a good truck as I have run that new platform. The biggest difference I would say between the two is that my T4 is less frantic on the limit and as a whole. I feel like if I got behind the Tekno as a driver, I struggled to get it back. The T4 is easier to run on my limit without it being frantic and tiring.
Right i get the same feeling, when driven within its limits the T4 is very calm. When you push it to or over the limit its easy to get it back on track. I have not driven the Tekno but in comparison to my old Chub XT8 i get that feeling. The Chub does not like to be pushed over the limit.
Its a Truck or Truggy not a (bruggy)? lol