And here I was about to buy a cheap Squier and luthier tools and when I can be EVEN cheaper and buy DIY kits and make tools! I'm glad I found your channel
What a fantastic video! I bought a 48" Aluminum Straight Edge, 24" aluminum level, mounting tape, and some 320 grit sandpaper to follow along with this. The results were fantastic! I have one side for my Strat and the other for my bass! I now have 3 very usable tools for my guitars! Thanks so much Dan! PRO TIP: When creating the notches for the frets to sit in on the notched straight edge, I found it best to start with a triangle file to get a small groove, then move to a round file. It creates a perfect semi-circle and looks great and works even better! if you can, make sure to secure the material in a vise- it helps a lot!
I took your advice and made my own tools. I then leveled my frets and did what nobody else ever mentioned and repeated the process on the higher frets. Wow! What a difference! I was able to get my action super low and made the guitar so comfortable to play. Thanks so much for the great advice! Really appreciate it!
Just wanted to drop a line to say how much I enjoy your channel. Lots of vids show how to do something cheaply but not professional, or pro but not cheap, and I feel like you do a really good job of sharing where and how we can save money vs. where it doesn't pay to go cheap! Keep up the great content!
I almost bought a notched straight edge thinking I couldn't make one myself. I had already done the leveling beam, and I just tape off the neck instead of doing the fret guard. I have never thought I could do a straight edge, but this morning before work, I'll be making a trip to my local Walmart, and project straight edge is on! Thank you for the excellent video.
John Morris glad you liked it! Yes masking tape works well, you just have to use a lot of it, especially if you do this often like me, so the guard is just a quick hack to save some time and money long term
Nathan Millsap thanks man! Practice makes perfect. It's taken a while for me to dial in my systems, trying to get to the point where I spend no more than 2 hrs filming and 2 hrs editing per project. Almost there! Editing time is still in the high side. Filming I get better every time!
Damn, I just spent 40 minutes watching other videos where this one gave me more info in 6. Thank you for that! Time to go grind notches in my straight edge.
A little tip for making the level sanding beam.... before attaching the sandpaper to the edge of the level, make sure it's flat by sanding it down. Tape/glue some sandpaper to a flat surface. A marble counter top is a good surface... just make sure the missus is not home. A large piece of glass could also work. Mark the edge of the level with a sharpie and then run the level across the sandpaper until the sharpie marks have disappeared. Repeat until the edge of the level is sanded perfectly flat. It won't take much to sand it flat , even with a metal level. Then attach the sandpaper to the edge of the level and level the frets.
This has literally got to have been the most helpful 6 min. of video I have ever watched. Had superb instructions delivered fast but clearly. Most definitely subbing.
Meanwhile on his wife's channel " Take your Hubbies best T-shirt & proccedd to polish the table in a circular motion, making sure to put plenty of wax on "/ LOL.
Finally...you have a great way of doing these vids.. and Have some killer ideas on all of it.. just wanted to say that..I'm trying to start guitar build from home..I'm finding out somethings are pretty expensive toolswise and stuff...but I'm still diehard about tying it out... wish my dad was still alive to help me with this stuff..but cancer had other plans :( so now I'm relying on youtube..your definitely a huge help..so thanks sir. I'm a fan for sure!
How did I miss this video? This is the best, get down to business, kick ass video I have seen in a while. And I subscribe to your channel. Dude, you rock! Keep up the great work.
Thanks for your fast answer. You are correct. My confusion was in the use of the term "frets". I didn't realize you meant fret Wires not the space between them.
Excellent info. Its so easy to buy expensive tools for the luthier, but when you can do it yourself, nothing else can compare (well some things but you get my drift). I made my own neck removal tool, as well as clamps - cause you know you never have enough clamps
Hey Dan, found your channel a couple of weeks ago and have been watching your videos. Great content! I have an old squier strat that was plagued with fret buzz and dead notes which I wasn't able to remedy without high action. I followed this video and some of your other videos making the simple tools. I leveled the frets and recrowned them. The thing plays like a different guitar! It's incredible. I now can get away with lower action, no dead frets and hardly any buzz. I just wanted to thank you for making this task seem so simple and doable and also for breathing new life into a crappy old guitar!
I finally did it Dan. I bought a 60 dollar 5 string neck off ebay, and made it playable. Made my edge, sander, and followed your steps. It's totally playable now. Not perfect, but pretty nice for my first time. Thanks Dan.
Cool. Another way to ensure the level is a true straight line is to spray mount a sheet of medium grit sandpaper to a true flat surface line glass table top or a truly flat marble countertop and run the level over it gently to smooth any minor bulges or gaps in the level.
Most of the metal straightedges like yours are a yard in length as sold in stores, and you can cut off the excess in short sections to make a bonus set of fret rockers.
I'm ready, I got a notched straight edge, steel wool, 10 sheets of wet'n'dry sandpaper a super flat wooden sanding block and I also made 2 of the cool little 45" fret crowning blocks from your other video, double sided tape, oh crap I forgot the new strings.. Great video !
Thanks dude! I couldn't find the right notched straight edge for a used bass I got, and then I stumbled upon your video... this was easier (and MUCH cheaper) than I thought it would be lol
COOL VIDEO IM A GUITAR BUILDER TOO AND ALWAYS TRY AND BUILD MY OWN TOOLS. ONE SUGGESTION FOR THE LEVELING BEAM IS TO NOT USE PLASTIC BIT METAL AND SAND IT FLAT ON A PROVEN FLAT SURFACE WITH SAND PAPER STUCK TO IT, START WITH 120 THEN , 220, 320, 400 MARKING THE BOTTOM OF THE BEAM WITH PEN BETWEEN GRITS TO SEE THE LOW SPOTS UNTIL IT IS PERFECTLY FLAT. JUST MY TWO CENTS HOPE IT HELPED.
eddie julian yeah you're right, you'll get a much better sanding beam that way. I just said to use a plastic one because most people don't already have a metal one, and if they don't it'd be more than $3-4 for them to buy one. I was trying to keep the video about using stuff you already have. Great tip! I'll probably make one for myself using your method
I just happened across your channel in a random twist of fate. I gotta admit I wasn't too sure what I was stepping into but 4 episodes later you picked up a subscriber. I'm also a cheap ass yet handy guy. The simple luthier tools are great man. I've always wanted to fix up my bastard guitars but wasn't sure how. Now I do so a million thanks. Btw, you made that cheap strat actually sound far superior to that American Standard. Happy Independence Day brother.
Stumbled across this channel while checking out reviews for the honeyburst Fender Preformer Strat that I'm more than likely grabbing next week. Bills are making me decide on just one toy buy this month. New Strat or another AR. Buddy I worked the railroad with has a tackdriver. A Ruger lower with a S&W upper with a BCM bolt/carrier, charging handle, etc... It's nice rifle. I've been into firearms all my life, and playing guitar for better part of 20 years now. They've always been my main two passions and hobbies in life. Now that this COVID19 has given me all the free time in the world, I though about ramping up my UA-cam and doing firearm/guitar/knives/gear. I was going to call it "guns & guitars" too. Lmao. Once you whipped out Spyderco to cut the pop can I was subscribed. Lol. I used to baby my Spyderco PM2. Now that the years on the railroad have it looking anything but new, its become my go-to workhorse beater pocket knife. I might give that Spyderco a 5 year review for my first channel vid maybe... I saw your Spydie had the partial serrated blade, but what model was it? Anyways... Great vid dude and I'll definitely be back to check out your other vids.
I agree that an aluminum level is better, but this video is how to do it with stuff you likely already have. Most people will only be doing this once or twice and don't want to spend a lot of money for that one or two times. People like you and me who do this more often will want to invest in better tools
I agree with Erick, those plastic levels were only ever designed to sit on top of something with no pressure applied. The moment you start using it as a file it will bend and twist like a bendy twisty thing. An aluminium or aluminium alloy level is actually not that much more expensive, looking at e-bay you can pick one up for less than 10 dollars and they do not bend, not even slightly. They will give a far better result.
Personally, I use this $10 leveling beam from HappyStompers on Etsy: www.etsy.com/listing/226055380/fret-leveling-aluminum-beam-luthier-tool?ref=shop_home_active_1
Man, I forgot about your channel but this is exactly what I'm looking for! I remember watching a few of yoir videos when i was in highschool getting ready to attempt my first build
Electricians snips work really well for cutting tin cans as well. You can find them at any Lowes or Home Depot in the electrical aisle, and the generally run around $11 -$14.
Tool 1b - fret rocker from the ruler... I found that I needed only 26 inches of ruler so I used the other end for a fret-rocker. Using the hyper tough ruler from walmart, one side should be from 85cm to the end (past 91cm). The other side should be from the 32 inch mark to the end. This will create one angled side between 32 inches and 85 cm, which for me on a 24 string fretboard seems to cover all the 3-sets. Make sure to check flatness of each side of course. Adjust as necessary if your fret spacings don't quite work with this... hope this helps!
Generally it's good to make final truss rod adjustment with strings on the neck. There is going to be a pull forward on the neck from the string tension, and that needs to be taken into account when adjusting the truss rod. Also changing to a different gauge of strings can effect the neck relief enough to make readjustment necessary sometimes.
Clear concise and useful! I have been doing fretwork for decades and rarely seen a video this straight (pun) to the point with solid info for people looking to jump in DIY !
I just got back from buying the leveling beam , ruler, sandpaper,2 sided tape and some nail files. Less than 20 Bucks! I taped some 140 grit sandpaper to a mirror and put a sharpie line on the level and sanded it down till the line was gone and it is level as can be. Used a hack saw with a new blade to cut small angles in the ruler and a small round file followed by some 320 grit sandpaper and now I have a VERY straight straight edge. Cant wait to try all this out and save me about $300 and also learn something!
i have a cheap acoustic guitar with a great tone but some of the frets are worn and the price i paid for it new doesn't justify the price of re-fretting, i think I'll give this a try, thanks for the advice
I had a "setup" done at guitar center. Mistake #1. When I got it back it still buzzed and the tech said it didn't come through the amp so it was okay and he even lowered it more. I wish I had found this video before hand and saved 50 bucks. I have all the materials in my shop!!
My kinda guy. Making and using tools from around the house. Although the finger nail file for crowning would be tough. A cheap crowning file is only ten bucks.
Dan, great video. I completed a leveling job on a jazz bass using it and I can get insanely low action (at least, better than the Fender recommended string action). Although, I did splurge for a metal leveling rod instead of making your DIY rod.
glad it worked out good for you! real luthier tools are better if you plan to do it often, but the diy tools will get you buy if you're only gonna do it a few times.
Excellent instruction - from one Dan to another. You are really onto something with this approach. Fret leveling intimidates me and a whole slew of folk I'm sure.
I remember the first time I gave one of my guitars an F-J it took hours, but after doing more of them time cut down. I only wish I had known about making my own tools back then instead of dropping $150+ on luthier tools lol. As always, great video, waiting for more bro.
OMG! Same idea, in the shop in France where I buy these rulers, the seller told me the straight line of it is controlled by laser! Same with bubble level! Weird you forget the trick about the same ruler, you cut some pieces with different length to use it as fret rockers! ;-) Good idea about fret savers with drinks cans! :-)
Cheap metal rulers and levels are seldom flat enough to use as-is you need to flatten them first - before notching or using as a sanding beam. And NEVER use steel wool anywhere near magnetic PUPs. Scotchbrite will get you the same result with no metal filings to ruin your pickups
Tioga Fretworks: the other issue is; even if the straightedge he is using IS straight it is flexible enough that you have to be very careful how you're holding it or you'll pull it down in the middle and think the neck is straight when it isn't. If you look at the commercially available ones they're 1/4" to 1/2" thick and won't flex.
Alien SexGod if you're checking to 1/8" tolerance- anything will work. If you're trying to get to .001" -which you should be if you're getting paid for a fret job - you need real tools not toys.
I appreciate everyone's input on this. Truth is I've had great results with these tools, it's hard to argue with results. Yes real pro tools are better, but these get the job done if you're careful (like careful not to bend the straight edge) ;)
You can avoid the residue that's left behind by the 2 sided sticky tape. Try using 2 pieces of masking tape and superglue instead. Comes right off with no residue.
Before leveling your frets... please.. make sure the frets are pressed all the way down into the fretboard... in the video you can cleary see that some of the frets are separated from the fretboard If so, just put some superglue and hold the fret pressed down until the glue dries.
DO NOT LEVEL YOUR GUITAR WITH A PLASTIC LEVEL! Use a metal one as the most minute imperfection in a plastic level will cause you to have even worse fret buzz problems than before. Apart from that, all of these other tips are pretty cool.
+Kai Paxman You are right, a metal level will work much better and is more likely to be perfectly straight. I've had good luck with plastic levels, but I have made sure they are straight before using them, and I do make a point to say that in this video
True that, use a metal straight edge or a metal level AT the store to QC the plastic ones (edge to edge looking up for light leaking through between them) till you find a perfect one. (if too cheap to buy the metal!)
Any level, whether plastic or metal, should be sanded flat before doing this. Tape sandpaper to a perfectly flat surface, like a marble counter top, table saw table, giant mirror, ect.... and run the level across it to sand the surface of the level flat. It may not be laser cut flat, but it will be better than it was when it was made in the Chinese sweat shop.
Also, especially since most of your guitar necks are off of the body, make sure you have a long enough level that the sand paper never leaves any fret at any time... Or else some frets get more "level" then others... Actually "unlevel". More work to correct after. Lucky for me, I have a buddy who has a cnc machine. I'm going to get a 1x3x24" solid aluminum bar and get him to put a perfect 14" radius on it. So when I sand on the fretboard, or level the frets afterwards, the beam won't be coming off of the first, nor the last fret at any time. Perfectly straight. Then sharpie all the frets, lay my beam on it super gently, then make a couple very short strokes (2" or so), very lightly and see if all of the black lines are gone...then I'll use your diy crowning tool to crown my frets! Thanks for the tip!
Some useful tips if you're on an insanely low budget but they could cost you more in the long term. For example your straight edge sanding block doesn't have a radius. Most people wouldn't be able to control the taper which would result in a guitar you can't easily chord on
+Krish Patel it's does take some practice, but if you actually follow my tips, like don't apply any pressure except for the weight of the sanding beam, and sand EVENLY across the whole width of the fret board, you'll maintain your radius
Krish Patel sorry to call this bull. I mean, yeah, there is a radius you have to maintain. but no one is even selling sanding blocks like you suggest. so why should Dan make one? the only thing that's available commercially are gauges to check your radius. leveling your frets takes of maybe a tenth of a millimeter. how much will this affect your radius, if you're doing it the way he is suggesting?
3:04 Well, actually the point is to make all the threats level while following the radius of the fretboard. How do you accurately follow the radius of the fretboard without using a concave sanding block of the desired radius?
By keeping your beam perpendicular to the frets, and evenly passing back and forth across the whole fretboard. It’s easier than you think, and the sharpie will let you know if you’ve spent too much or too little time in a particular spot
Depending on the neck like a strat or most fender guitars or so have a neck with a radius , so if you are leveling frets it needs to be the same radius as the neck so you don't flatten your frets to a neck with a radius
+Aaron Rodriguez lots of people said this, I guess I wasn't descriptive enough. If you gently sand evenly across the whole width of the fretboard, you will retain the radius. If you spend too much time or too much pressure in one spot, that's where you can jack up the radius. But it shouldn't be a problem if you're careful
@@GunsandGuitars I feel like this was my case. I am feeling my frets to be completely flat, is there a way to fix this and give them back its natural curvature?
you inspired me! my 65.00 P Bass kit came out great, plays pretty good and sounds good too! only needs some fret level and crown.......now i am inspired again!
Thanks for this video Good info you can also get some DA sander glue like 3M rubber cement they use for it and you just smeared around on your block or whatever you have and you can slap your sandpaper right on it. Tear Off change pieces etc. I used to paint engines at Perkins diesel and the ones with sheet metal we had to DA sand and Fit sheet metal doors etc. better to build homemade USA Then Chinese Rust. Brass would be a good material for things too I’ve built brass nut before on my 1972 telecaster. I wouldn’t mind building a set of brass radius gauges. Also if you have to perfectly level a straight edge you can send it in with wet and dry or a stone on a piece of glass or some thing like a tablesaw table top is usually ground. If you need that precision most snacks usually have a little bit of concave adjusted into them this is the first time I’ve heard about tapering the higher frets. If you want a high-quality tool for crowning go look up baroque. Keep in mind there are lotta frauds of them but it is a precision luthier tool A couple passes with that to crown your frets and they’re all perfect radius. 1, 2, or 3 Jumbo fret size. Some of the tools have all three sizes on one tool
Interesting debate on "cheap" rulers versus "professional" rulers - with the usual preconceptions. Assuming one does not bias the measurement through error (e.g. holding the ruler so that it flexes, or introducing parallax error when watching the gap between ruler and neck) what matters is the accuracy one needs. Having a super straight ruler (say less than 0.001" = 0.025 mm) is useless because what one is after is about 0.002" accuracy (0.050 mm). in fact this is the difference between what is perceived as a "good action" and a "bad action". Say one is after an action of 1.50 mm (this being on the low side). This guy will find 1.70 mm a bit too high. Here it is: 0.20 is the perceived difference, which is 4x the accuracy of our ruler (0.050 mm). I hope I made my point, and I apologize for switching to metric as I am European. Conclusion: expensive, super straight rulers are unnecessary for THIS job.
Great video! I am assembling a Solo headless guitar kit right now and it needed a lot of work. I had to lower the bridge over 6 mm!! To do so I had to route out the bridge cavity. Once I did that, I realized that the frets weren't level. This video helped me learn how to make some basic tools needed to get the guitar in good working order. I enjoy your video style, too!
i dont used plastic level, i do metal beam and i sand it first using ink like you are doing fret leveling until all ink just gone to make sure ita well straight
Good vid, kudos on the 12th fret technique for leveling (one I learned at Stew Mac many years ago). Another one, tho, is that up/down fret sanding is actually not the best way to level (even if a lot of luthiers do it)...it will put more sand strokes on some frets (middle) and less on the outers. Instead, do an "X" shaped pattern, no more than an inch or two up and down the fretboard, going side to side. Works much better. Lastly, use a replacement utility razor blade down to the frets to check level....also known as a fret rocker.
Hello Dan can you share a DIY method on how to make a set of nut files? Can an acetylene torch tip cleaner do the job? The usual set of files in the hardwares are too thick. Thank you very much.
And here I was about to buy a cheap Squier and luthier tools and when I can be EVEN cheaper and buy DIY kits and make tools! I'm glad I found your channel
I'm glad you did too! Good luck with your project!
Banggood has some cheap luthier files....SAVE $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Just get a used Mexico Strat. A few minor upgrades and you’ll have a real players guitar. 🎸
@@dennisnashville7114 or a Giannini strat from Reverb. My Giannini tele is terrific.
Stay cheap, my friend. Pennies make dollars and dollars make stacks. Hope your guitar turned out well.
What a fantastic video! I bought a 48" Aluminum Straight Edge, 24" aluminum level, mounting tape, and some 320 grit sandpaper to follow along with this. The results were fantastic! I have one side for my Strat and the other for my bass! I now have 3 very usable tools for my guitars! Thanks so much Dan!
PRO TIP: When creating the notches for the frets to sit in on the notched straight edge, I found it best to start with a triangle file to get a small groove, then move to a round file. It creates a perfect semi-circle and looks great and works even better! if you can, make sure to secure the material in a vise- it helps a lot!
I took your advice and made my own tools. I then leveled my frets and did what nobody else ever mentioned and repeated the process on the higher frets. Wow! What a difference! I was able to get my action super low and made the guitar so comfortable to play. Thanks so much for the great advice! Really appreciate it!
Awesome man! Sounds like you did a great job with it!
Guns and Guitars yep...it was your help that put the final touch on that action! Thanks again!
Brooo this is what nobody wants to talk about you’re mi hero!!! Cheers from chile 🇨🇱🇨🇱🇨🇱
Dude isn’t just cheap with tools, he drinking Dr. Thunder😂
Just wanted to drop a line to say how much I enjoy your channel. Lots of vids show how to do something cheaply but not professional, or pro but not cheap, and I feel like you do a really good job of sharing where and how we can save money vs. where it doesn't pay to go cheap! Keep up the great content!
I almost bought a notched straight edge thinking I couldn't make one myself. I had already done the leveling beam, and I just tape off the neck instead of doing the fret guard. I have never thought I could do a straight edge, but this morning before work, I'll be making a trip to my local Walmart, and project straight edge is on! Thank you for the excellent video.
John Morris glad you liked it! Yes masking tape works well, you just have to use a lot of it, especially if you do this often like me, so the guard is just a quick hack to save some time and money long term
Bro, you are the bomb for all of us who have no easy access to these.
Your videos are getting better and better. Good job. I might try this on my old Fender.
Nathan Millsap thanks man! Practice makes perfect. It's taken a while for me to dial in my systems, trying to get to the point where I spend no more than 2 hrs filming and 2 hrs editing per project. Almost there! Editing time is still in the high side. Filming I get better every time!
Damn, I just spent 40 minutes watching other videos where this one gave me more info in 6. Thank you for that! Time to go grind notches in my straight edge.
A little tip for making the level sanding beam.... before attaching the sandpaper to the edge of the level, make sure it's flat by sanding it down. Tape/glue some sandpaper to a flat surface. A marble counter top is a good surface... just make sure the missus is not home. A large piece of glass could also work. Mark the edge of the level with a sharpie and then run the level across the sandpaper until the sharpie marks have disappeared. Repeat until the edge of the level is sanded perfectly flat. It won't take much to sand it flat , even with a metal level. Then attach the sandpaper to the edge of the level and level the frets.
Dr Thunder is AWESOME. So is the tips here.
This has literally got to have been the most helpful 6 min. of video I have ever watched. Had superb instructions delivered fast but clearly. Most definitely subbing.
+Michael Alberts thanks for your sub!
Meanwhile on his wife's channel " Take your Hubbies best T-shirt & proccedd to polish the table in a circular motion, making sure to put plenty of wax on "/ LOL.
one of the best videos on fret leveling out there, can't wait to see how the bass ends up
+lewis walker thanks! Hopefully I'll get that video filmed this week!
Finally...you have a great way of doing these vids.. and Have some killer ideas on all of it.. just wanted to say that..I'm trying to start guitar build from home..I'm finding out somethings are pretty expensive toolswise and stuff...but I'm still diehard about tying it out... wish my dad was still alive to help me with this stuff..but cancer had other plans :( so now I'm relying on youtube..your definitely a huge help..so thanks sir. I'm a fan for sure!
How did I miss this video? This is the best, get down to business, kick ass video I have seen in a while. And I subscribe to your channel. Dude, you rock! Keep up the great work.
Thank you! And thanks for your sub!
The tip to double up on disks on the Dremel to make them last is worth the price of admission. Going to mangle a straight edge as soon as I can.
Currently building an explorer kit and I can’t say enough just how helpful this, and your other videos have been so far. Thanks for all the content!
thank you and you're welcome!
Thanks for your fast answer. You are correct. My confusion was in the use of the term "frets". I didn't realize you meant fret Wires not the space between them.
The most useful guitar DIY video ever. That levelling beam idea saved my guitar. Don't even think about bying "the real deal" on ebay.
... Well, I wasn't specting this kind of awesome videos. I'm glad I found your channel dude... one more subscriber (from Chile), mate!
Thanks! and thanks for the sub!
Oh wn, ni ahí si estoy dos años después del comentario, pero de pana encontrar a otro chileno skskks
Excellent info. Its so easy to buy expensive tools for the luthier, but when you can do it yourself, nothing else can compare (well some things but you get my drift). I made my own neck removal tool, as well as clamps - cause you know you never have enough clamps
John Guertin cool! I need to make a neck removal tool...
Hey Dan, found your channel a couple of weeks ago and have been watching your videos. Great content! I have an old squier strat that was plagued with fret buzz and dead notes which I wasn't able to remedy without high action. I followed this video and some of your other videos making the simple tools. I leveled the frets and recrowned them. The thing plays like a different guitar! It's incredible. I now can get away with lower action, no dead frets and hardly any buzz. I just wanted to thank you for making this task seem so simple and doable and also for breathing new life into a crappy old guitar!
I finally did it Dan. I bought a 60 dollar 5 string neck off ebay, and made it playable.
Made my edge, sander, and followed your steps.
It's totally playable now. Not perfect, but pretty nice for my first time. Thanks Dan.
Cool. Another way to ensure the level is a true straight line is to spray mount a sheet of medium grit sandpaper to a true flat surface line glass table top or a truly flat marble countertop and run the level over it gently to smooth any minor bulges or gaps in the level.
I've been binge watching your videos for a week now. Love your content! Thanks for all you do!
Most of the metal straightedges like yours are a yard in length as sold in stores, and you can cut off the excess in short sections to make a bonus set of fret rockers.
good tips man , very cool channel
+sdmcustom woodworking thank you
I'm ready, I got a notched straight edge, steel wool, 10 sheets of wet'n'dry sandpaper a super flat wooden sanding block and I also made 2 of the cool little 45" fret crowning blocks from your other video, double sided tape, oh crap I forgot the new strings..
Great video !
Thanks dude! I couldn't find the right notched straight edge for a used bass I got, and then I stumbled upon your video... this was easier (and MUCH cheaper) than I thought it would be lol
this video makes me want a soda so bad
+Joshua Ortiz haha
@AffiliatePro Soda water. LOL
I discovered this channel today and I'm surprised I haven't heard of it before. This is a great channel.
It a new channel, just launched it this year!
This dude is RIGHT ON. RIGHT ON, DUDE!
Thank you! RIGHT ON BACK AT YA
Really loving your vibe and your channel. Well done, good sir, well done.
COOL VIDEO IM A GUITAR BUILDER TOO AND ALWAYS TRY AND BUILD MY OWN TOOLS. ONE SUGGESTION FOR THE LEVELING BEAM IS TO NOT USE PLASTIC BIT METAL AND SAND IT FLAT ON A PROVEN FLAT SURFACE WITH SAND PAPER STUCK TO IT, START WITH 120 THEN , 220, 320, 400 MARKING THE BOTTOM OF THE BEAM WITH PEN BETWEEN GRITS TO SEE THE LOW SPOTS UNTIL IT IS PERFECTLY FLAT. JUST MY TWO CENTS HOPE IT HELPED.
eddie julian yeah you're right, you'll get a much better sanding beam that way. I just said to use a plastic one because most people don't already have a metal one, and if they don't it'd be more than $3-4 for them to buy one. I was trying to keep the video about using stuff you already have. Great tip! I'll probably make one for myself using your method
I just happened across your channel in a random twist of fate. I gotta admit I wasn't too sure what I was stepping into but 4 episodes later you picked up a subscriber. I'm also a cheap ass yet handy guy. The simple luthier tools are great man. I've always wanted to fix up my bastard guitars but wasn't sure how. Now I do so a million thanks. Btw, you made that cheap strat actually sound far superior to that American Standard. Happy Independence Day brother.
+Shandy Albert thanks for your compliments and for your sub! Happy 4th!
Stumbled across this channel while checking out reviews for the honeyburst Fender Preformer Strat that I'm more than likely grabbing next week. Bills are making me decide on just one toy buy this month. New Strat or another AR. Buddy I worked the railroad with has a tackdriver. A Ruger lower with a S&W upper with a BCM bolt/carrier, charging handle, etc... It's nice rifle. I've been into firearms all my life, and playing guitar for better part of 20 years now. They've always been my main two passions and hobbies in life. Now that this COVID19 has given me all the free time in the world, I though about ramping up my UA-cam and doing firearm/guitar/knives/gear. I was going to call it "guns & guitars" too. Lmao. Once you whipped out Spyderco to cut the pop can I was subscribed. Lol. I used to baby my Spyderco PM2. Now that the years on the railroad have it looking anything but new, its become my go-to workhorse beater pocket knife. I might give that Spyderco a 5 year review for my first channel vid maybe... I saw your Spydie had the partial serrated blade, but what model was it? Anyways... Great vid dude and I'll definitely be back to check out your other vids.
A grinder is likely to warp a ruler. Aluminum levels are usually ground flat to ensure accuracy $20
I agree that an aluminum level is better, but this video is how to do it with stuff you likely already have. Most people will only be doing this once or twice and don't want to spend a lot of money for that one or two times. People like you and me who do this more often will want to invest in better tools
I agree with Erick, those plastic levels were only ever designed to sit on top of something with no pressure applied. The moment you start using it as a file it will bend and twist like a bendy twisty thing. An aluminium or aluminium alloy level is actually not that much more expensive, looking at e-bay you can pick one up for less than 10 dollars and they do not bend, not even slightly. They will give a far better result.
Personally, I use this $10 leveling beam from HappyStompers on Etsy: www.etsy.com/listing/226055380/fret-leveling-aluminum-beam-luthier-tool?ref=shop_home_active_1
Man, I forgot about your channel but this is exactly what I'm looking for! I remember watching a few of yoir videos when i was in highschool getting ready to attempt my first build
Electricians snips work really well for cutting tin cans as well. You can find them at any Lowes or Home Depot in the electrical aisle, and the generally run around $11 -$14.
They're also amazing at getting through those stupid plastic "blister" packs that most electronics come in, and zip ties are no challenge.
great tips, thanks!
Tool 1b - fret rocker from the ruler... I found that I needed only 26 inches of ruler so I used the other end for a fret-rocker. Using the hyper tough ruler from walmart, one side should be from 85cm to the end (past 91cm). The other side should be from the 32 inch mark to the end. This will create one angled side between 32 inches and 85 cm, which for me on a 24 string fretboard seems to cover all the 3-sets. Make sure to check flatness of each side of course. Adjust as necessary if your fret spacings don't quite work with this... hope this helps!
Thanks for this video, these are all great ideas for the home guitar shop :).
One of the best channels I Have found !!!! Thank You!!!!!!
You have a career here on UA-cam bro. Your videos are helpful and easy to understand for everyone , so yeah, subscribed ! :D
Thanks for the sub!
You're thoughts about a can are so true!!!
+Jamie Beattie right? Stupid two liter bottles were the worst invention ever
Generally it's good to make final truss rod adjustment with strings on the neck. There is going to be a pull forward on the neck from the string tension, and that needs to be taken into account when adjusting the truss rod. Also changing to a different gauge of strings can effect the neck relief enough to make readjustment necessary sometimes.
+Cris Bessette you are correct. I didn't really address guitar setup in this video, mostly just leveling and crowning frets
Guns and Guitars you should though - we need more videos like this! .. and I want to know how to do it too. great work!
I know I can buy these tools for very cheap on Amazon but I still love watching these videos and I learn something every time. Such a great channel 🤘
Clear concise and useful! I have been doing fretwork for decades and rarely seen a video this straight (pun) to the point
with solid info for people looking to jump in DIY !
+Zero-Mod thanks for the compliments!
Great Job! Getting better and better.... Thanks Guns, Guitars and Guts
+Michael Stead thank you!
I just got back from buying the leveling beam , ruler, sandpaper,2 sided tape and some nail files. Less than 20 Bucks! I taped some 140 grit sandpaper to a mirror and put a sharpie line on the level and sanded it down till the line was gone and it is level as can be. Used a hack saw with a new blade to cut small angles in the ruler and a small round file followed by some 320 grit sandpaper and now I have a VERY straight straight edge. Cant wait to try all this out and save me about $300 and also learn something!
In my country luthier tools are very expensive. Thanks for share the idea a ruler is a good idea.
i have a cheap acoustic guitar with a great tone but some of the frets are worn and the price i paid for it new doesn't justify the price of re-fretting, i think I'll give this a try, thanks for the advice
ice-182 awesome! Let me know how it works out!
A lot of useful information here. I've had pretty good results using the self-adhesive style of sandpaper on the metal level to use in fret leveling.
a metal level is better than a plastic one!
I had a "setup" done at guitar center. Mistake #1. When I got it back it still buzzed and the tech said it didn't come through the amp so it was okay and he even lowered it more. I wish I had found this video before hand and saved 50 bucks. I have all the materials in my shop!!
+smoakngun bummer! Yeah it sounds like you need your frets leveled. Good luck with the project!
My kinda guy. Making and using tools from around the house. Although the finger nail file for crowning would be tough. A cheap crowning file is only ten bucks.
Dan, great video.
I completed a leveling job on a jazz bass using it and I can get insanely low action (at least, better than the Fender recommended string action). Although, I did splurge for a metal leveling rod instead of making your DIY rod.
glad it worked out good for you! real luthier tools are better if you plan to do it often, but the diy tools will get you buy if you're only gonna do it a few times.
Awesome tip with the sanding beam
Excellent instruction - from one Dan to another. You are really onto something with this approach. Fret leveling intimidates me and a whole slew of folk I'm sure.
+Count Von D thanks for the compliment!
Dude, best video on DIY tools i've seen. Cheers!
+radamesd81 thanks!
Thank you for these tips! I made a fret guard with two pieces of plumbers tape held in position with masking tape. Thanks for the idea!
I remember the first time I gave one of my guitars an F-J it took hours, but after doing more of them time cut down. I only wish I had known about making my own tools back then instead of dropping $150+ on luthier tools lol. As always, great video, waiting for more bro.
Thanks! hopefully more coming soon
Youre a legend ... I am officially your fan now..
+Sheharyar Mehmood the feelings are mutual lol
OMG! Same idea, in the shop in France where I buy these rulers, the seller told me the straight line of it is controlled by laser! Same with bubble level! Weird you forget the trick about the same ruler, you cut some pieces with different length to use it as fret rockers! ;-) Good idea about fret savers with drinks cans! :-)
great video man, clearly presented and love that you show how to use as well as how to make it.
Thanks!
Cheap metal rulers and levels are seldom flat enough to use as-is you need to flatten them first - before notching or using as a sanding beam. And NEVER use steel wool anywhere near magnetic PUPs. Scotchbrite will get you the same result with no metal filings to ruin your pickups
Thanks for the tip!
+Tioga Fretworks I doubt it buddy ..... even cheap rulers are straight get real! Or is that get rule?
Tioga Fretworks: the other issue is; even if the straightedge he is using IS straight it is flexible enough that you have to be very careful how you're holding it or you'll pull it down in the middle and think the neck is straight when it isn't. If you look at the commercially available ones they're 1/4" to 1/2" thick and won't flex.
Alien SexGod if you're checking to 1/8" tolerance- anything will work. If you're trying to get to .001" -which you should be if you're getting paid for a fret job - you need real tools not toys.
I appreciate everyone's input on this. Truth is I've had great results with these tools, it's hard to argue with results. Yes real pro tools are better, but these get the job done if you're careful (like careful not to bend the straight edge) ;)
You can avoid the residue that's left behind by the 2 sided sticky tape. Try using 2 pieces of masking tape and superglue instead. Comes right off with no residue.
Ahh cold Mountain Dew from a can. The American way!
I'd definitely like to see some more guitar luthier hacks
I'll make more videos as I learn new tricks!
Before leveling your frets... please.. make sure the frets are pressed all the way down into the fretboard... in the video you can cleary see that some of the frets are separated from the fretboard If so, just put some superglue and hold the fret pressed down until the glue dries.
Honestly very helpful! Have you considering doing a video on wiring pickups to pots correctly?
yup, in the future I will
DO NOT LEVEL YOUR GUITAR WITH A PLASTIC LEVEL! Use a metal one as the most minute imperfection in a plastic level will cause you to have even worse fret buzz problems than before. Apart from that, all of these other tips are pretty cool.
+Kai Paxman You are right, a metal level will work much better and is more likely to be perfectly straight. I've had good luck with plastic levels, but I have made sure they are straight before using them, and I do make a point to say that in this video
True that, use a metal straight edge or a metal level AT the store to QC the plastic ones (edge to edge looking up for light leaking through between them) till you find a perfect one. (if too cheap to buy the metal!)
Any level, whether plastic or metal, should be sanded flat before doing this. Tape sandpaper to a perfectly flat surface, like a marble counter top, table saw table, giant mirror, ect.... and run the level across it to sand the surface of the level flat. It may not be laser cut flat, but it will be better than it was when it was made in the Chinese sweat shop.
Also, especially since most of your guitar necks are off of the body, make sure you have a long enough level that the sand paper never leaves any fret at any time... Or else some frets get more "level" then others... Actually "unlevel". More work to correct after. Lucky for me, I have a buddy who has a cnc machine. I'm going to get a 1x3x24" solid aluminum bar and get him to put a perfect 14" radius on it. So when I sand on the fretboard, or level the frets afterwards, the beam won't be coming off of the first, nor the last fret at any time. Perfectly straight. Then sharpie all the frets, lay my beam on it super gently, then make a couple very short strokes (2" or so), very lightly and see if all of the black lines are gone...then I'll use your diy crowning tool to crown my frets! Thanks for the tip!
Yes metal ones are inexpensive . I bought a perfect one at a pawn shop for $4.00
Some useful tips if you're on an insanely low budget but they could cost you more in the long term. For example your straight edge sanding block doesn't have a radius. Most people wouldn't be able to control the taper which would result in a guitar you can't easily chord on
+Krish Patel it's does take some practice, but if you actually follow my tips, like don't apply any pressure except for the weight of the sanding beam, and sand EVENLY across the whole width of the fret board, you'll maintain your radius
Krish Patel sorry to call this bull.
I mean, yeah, there is a radius you have to maintain. but no one is even selling sanding blocks like you suggest.
so why should Dan make one?
the only thing that's available commercially are gauges to check your radius.
leveling your frets takes of maybe a tenth of a millimeter.
how much will this affect your radius, if you're doing it the way he is suggesting?
You can get radius blocks for about $10 each: www.ebay.com/itm/362056794216
3:04
Well, actually the point is to make all the threats level while following the radius of the fretboard. How do you accurately follow the radius of the fretboard without using a concave sanding block of the desired radius?
By keeping your beam perpendicular to the frets, and evenly passing back and forth across the whole fretboard. It’s easier than you think, and the sharpie will let you know if you’ve spent too much or too little time in a particular spot
Depending on the neck like a strat or most fender guitars or so have a neck with a radius , so if you are leveling frets it needs to be the same radius as the neck so you don't flatten your frets to a neck with a radius
+Aaron Rodriguez lots of people said this, I guess I wasn't descriptive enough. If you gently sand evenly across the whole width of the fretboard, you will retain the radius. If you spend too much time or too much pressure in one spot, that's where you can jack up the radius. But it shouldn't be a problem if you're careful
@@GunsandGuitars I feel like this was my case. I am feeling my frets to be completely flat, is there a way to fix this and give them back its natural curvature?
you inspired me! my 65.00 P Bass kit came out great, plays pretty good and sounds good too! only needs some fret level and crown.......now i am inspired again!
Im about to do a fret job on a 50 dollar strat project today!!! Thank you so much for the info
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Thank you for the soda tip ... and the work on the fredboard !
+Filip 36 you're welcome :)
Come on. Everyone knows pop tastes best out of a glass bottle
you got me. it really does.
True
Nah, that metallic taste reminds me of summer.
Thank you for calling it pop. Soda? What is that?
whats wrong with summer
Thanks for this video Good info you can also get some DA sander glue like 3M rubber cement they use for it and you just smeared around on your block or whatever you have and you can slap your sandpaper right on it. Tear Off change pieces etc. I used to paint engines at Perkins diesel and the ones with sheet metal we had to DA sand and Fit sheet metal doors etc. better to build homemade USA Then Chinese Rust. Brass would be a good material for things too I’ve built brass nut before on my 1972 telecaster. I wouldn’t mind building a set of brass radius gauges. Also if you have to perfectly level a straight edge you can send it in with wet and dry or a stone on a piece of glass or some thing like a tablesaw table top is usually ground. If you need that precision most snacks usually have a little bit of concave adjusted into them this is the first time I’ve heard about tapering the higher frets. If you want a high-quality tool for crowning go look up baroque. Keep in mind there are lotta frauds of them but it is a precision luthier tool A couple passes with that to crown your frets and they’re all perfect radius. 1, 2, or 3 Jumbo fret size. Some of the tools have all three sizes on one tool
Interesting debate on "cheap" rulers versus "professional" rulers - with the usual preconceptions. Assuming one does not bias the measurement through error (e.g. holding the ruler so that it flexes, or introducing parallax error when watching the gap between ruler and neck) what matters is the accuracy one needs. Having a super straight ruler (say less than 0.001" = 0.025 mm) is useless because what one is after is about 0.002" accuracy (0.050 mm). in fact this is the difference between what is perceived as a "good action" and a "bad action". Say one is after an action of 1.50 mm (this being on the low side). This guy will find 1.70 mm a bit too high. Here it is: 0.20 is the perceived difference, which is 4x the accuracy of our ruler (0.050 mm).
I hope I made my point, and I apologize for switching to metric as I am European.
Conclusion: expensive, super straight rulers are unnecessary for THIS job.
Great video! I am assembling a Solo headless guitar kit right now and it needed a lot of work. I had to lower the bridge over 6 mm!! To do so I had to route out the bridge cavity. Once I did that, I realized that the frets weren't level. This video helped me learn how to make some basic tools needed to get the guitar in good working order. I enjoy your video style, too!
It would seem my cheap Dutch behind is endebted to you sir, I used your tools and procedures on my guitar and much to my amazement, it worked!
+Daniel Hart awesome!
i dont used plastic level, i do metal beam and i sand it first using ink like you are doing fret leveling until all ink just gone to make sure ita well straight
Good vid dude. Perfect edit too. Straight to the point.
Tip: Always wash the tops of those cans before you put them in the fridge. Who knows how many critters were crawling on them in the warehouse!
Dan, thanks for confirming what I was about to do anyway! Love the channel. Thanks for making Luthierness available to the masses.
I've now seen all your guitar videos, great execution!! Eagerly waiting for more....
+Bryson Gainey thanks! The P bass build video is almost done, should be up soon!
Dan, these tutorials are EXCELLENT as well as entertaining, thank you!
its been sometime since i've found such a good and funny (at the same time serious and informative) channel! Thx man, i will be sticking around
+Corái Fiorini thanks! That's my goal :)
Good vid, kudos on the 12th fret technique for leveling (one I learned at Stew Mac many years ago). Another one, tho, is that up/down fret sanding is actually not the best way to level (even if a lot of luthiers do it)...it will put more sand strokes on some frets (middle) and less on the outers. Instead, do an "X" shaped pattern, no more than an inch or two up and down the fretboard, going side to side. Works much better. Lastly, use a replacement utility razor blade down to the frets to check level....also known as a fret rocker.
kick ass video! I like all these ideas. I do my own bass setups and these will come in very handy .
+TheMightybasstone awesome! Glad you liked it
A nice batch of solutions
+Karmicmessenger thanks!
Hello Dan can you share a DIY method on how to make a set of nut files? Can an acetylene torch tip cleaner do the job? The usual set of files in the hardwares are too thick. Thank you very much.
Love your video. Running out right now to Harbor Freight Tools to get some luthier tools. You got a new subscriber.
Make a double neck guitar kit from the fretwire please
Love this channel. It's like the blue collar luthier tour.
Haha that’s the funniest comment on this video
all the quirky snarky lines are great... keep it up!
Great vid.
If you spend a little more and get one of the milled aluminum levels, you will be guaranteed that it is straight.
yes, and if I were to buy a level just for making a fret sanding beam I would, but I figured most people would be using stuff they already have
Quite true, good sir. I guess I'm lucky, in that I have two milled aluminum 2' levels.
Carry on.
How do I determine a “flat” surface? Are straight edges reliably “flat”?